Thank you for compiling this!
Quoted from f3honda4me:
Probably just need to adjust the position.
Maybe. But on my shooter wireform there was a clear point of contact robbing energy from the ball. I could feel the ball hitting one of the flat support wireforms hard. And another one very slightly. Knock on wood but that was 100 percent of my shooter issues.
Quoted from vireland:
PROBLEM: Screw on top of the post from the sling under the Black Pearl ramp is pushing into the ramp, deforming it with a dent. You can see it in this picture, just below the "P" in "Pearl," tearing the ramp sticker a little and pushing up deforming the ramp with a bump.
SOLUTION: The post in question really should have been a metal mini-post from the factory to allow proper clearance for the ramp above and still allow tension for the slingshot below. As it is now, you can back off the two #1 philips screws at the entrance to the ramp to release some of the tension on this screw, but not too much because you want the ramp to still be solidly connected to the playfield.
If you're feeling ambitious, you can try swapping in a mini-post instead.
Has anybody done the mini post fix? I am not sure how well the metal bit that the screw goes through would then be connected to the playfield? Maybe I am picturing the wrong replacement part.
Does anybody have a link to the mini post they used? Is it a wood screw or a threaded base?
This was a great heads up, I was not aware of this screw being an issue.
Quoted from vireland:
I will probably try it, but I haven't removed that post yet to know if the existing plastic post/screw combo is going into a t-nut (machine threaded) or right into the wood (wood screw). The only thing that's dicey is that will make that small metal cover only connected on one end, so it will have to be very tight so it doesn't move. It's a bonus that it's not plastic, but even with it being metal, it can still swing around from hits and vibration. So that's a problem to solve. But I think a mini-post is the answer, I just have to figure out the details.
Hmm... looking at the pick again I am thinking grinding the screw (or using a lower profile or smaller diameter head screw) would the way to go. If there is only the one post supporting that bracket, you may be trading a possible ramp dimple with a ramp hammer from the metal hammering the ramp from ball hits...
Quoted from vireland:
Actually a flat head machine screw instead of a pan head may do the trick. The top of the plastic post would have to be drilled out to handle the taper of the flat head screw, but this may be the best solution.
You are probably right; looks like it is a standard plastic post (#2) here; you have extras if you did your slings
Quoted from joseph5185:
Does anyone know what size roll pin this is?
It's pretty small..
It's probably fine to use as is, but maybe get a new one just for the hell of it since I did scratch this one up because it's pretty impossible not to.
This style of plunger and link assembly is cheap and pretty widely available. I would honestly just hit up your distributor for one or buy one. Especially if you are new to pinball.
"Old timers" like myself may enjoy spending 2 hours trying to fix a 10 dollar part, but really, if you just want to get your game fixed, get a new one. Your game may be down for a few days but your sanity is worth it IMO.
Quoted from vireland:
Okay, replying to myself on this one. I did this, and I would say the improvement is definite, but it's not really as much as it needs to be so I can't really recommend doing it. You don't have to drill out the plastic post because the piece on top is metal (forgot about that), so you end up having to bevel the hole so the flat screw rests lower, and even though you gain about 2mm and it's not pressing into the ramp as much, the edge of the metal top is still pressing on the back of the black pearl ramp. The ramp should have been further away from the metal top on that sling or the metal top should have been about 4mm further in.
So, I'm glad I did it, but I don't really recommend doing it, especially because you have to physically change the metal cover with the bevel to do it.
Bummer; I will keep my eye out for super low profile machine screws when I am out today, or early this week.
Here is my patented trough tape fix, I may do something that looks better but I swear my game is level but balls were shooting out the trough into the cabinet.
This works, but suggests I need to check something else (I tried Lloyd's tips re: adjusting the ball trough exit, and that helped but it went from 1 in 10 times to like 1 in 20 to 30 times...).
I two pieces of clear gorilla tape oriented such that the inside of the trough is not sticky, neither is the outside. Then I layered more tape on for strength.
Fixed for now...
Here is another fix of the day; I noticed my Devil's Triangle spinner wasn't laying flat; I thought i may need a touch of lubrication (which I added) but it was actually rubbing on some wires to the left of it.
Left unchecked this eventually would have caused some issues (potentially shorts as the end of the spinner chewed through the lighting and opto wires).
My fix was to use several zip ties to hopefully keep these wires out of the way.
Quoted from wesman:
I loosened and removed screws in the lockdown bar assembly, and the receiver, until I could loosen and shift the three main nuts that turn into "buttons" on the front of the cabinet. I slid it over just a bit to the left, and refastened those three main bolts. The three woods screws at the bottom of the receiver assembly will most likely be left out, rather than drill or drive new holes into the front of the cabinet.
I still need to reassemble the lockdown bar assembly, and make sure the lockdown bar itself can fit in appropriately, but I'm waiting to do that for a bit while installing some Cliffy's and waiting on parts/tools.
Thank you for inquiring. If you have any other questions, feel free to fire away.
Good to hear! Test fitting the lock down bar should not be a time consuming thing. Fingers crossed it fits!
I just installed the disc quieting kit; need to play some games to make a better determination, but I like it so far.
It took about as long as I thought, BUT i did ream out the holes of the metal disc support bracket to move my map mech slightly to the left; I was able to get it centered perfectly now, I just need to see if it now slowly moves over time (that would really surprise me, but hey, I guess it could happen).
Quoted from KornFreak28:
How long did it take approx?
Around 2.5 to 3 hours, but I was taking my time. AND that included me getting everything perectly set up and ready to go, then realizing that the Motor gear was installed too high and was binding against the playfield; so I got to uninstall the mech again, adjust the gear again, then reinstall, recenter and relevel again
Anybody ever have their slings arm get pushed "outside" of the flipper rubber? I have had that happen a few times on each sling; not sure if changing to white rubbers would help or if there is another fix.
Quoted from zaphX:
My wife just lost a ball. I checked the subway, Dauntless, under the Pearl...nowhere to be found. Then I finally found it -inside- the right sling.
That was the last straw for me, coupled with two “escaped kickers” on that sling. I replaced the rubbers with fresh ones and will report back how it behaves.
That happened to me in my first day or two... I looked everywhere, listened for a ball rolling, I was stumped.... I had actually looked at the slings earlier as my STTNG sling had eaten a ball years ago, but I missed it the first time.
Hopefully the white rubbers I just put on stop that and keep the sling arm from kicking through...
Quoted from vireland:
PROBLEM: It bugs you that the barrels both turn the same direction.
SOLUTION: Reverse the connectors on the plug under the playfield for the upper barrel so it turns the opposite direction from the lower spinning barrel bumper.
Here's the connector:
Connector taken out of the female housing:
Use pin extractor (tool is available on Amazon amazon.com link » and at tool stores) to remove the pins and swap their position:
Put the connectors back together and enjoy!
I just found my round pin extraction tool so this is tempting
As an fyi to those removing the ship to put cliffys on, there is no reason to loosen or remove the bp ramp. Just remove the three screws holding the vuk, remove the vuk, and there is plenty of clearance to slide the ship back and remove it. The vuk is positively located, where as the ramp is adjustable, introducing unnecessary variables into the reassembly equation. Further, the brackets that the bp ride on are designed so that the bp is to be removed by sliding it toward the back of the machine, not forward toward the ramp.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]</blockquote
Timely tip for me. Thank you!
Quoted from rs812:
Hell yes it works! I did it last night. All you have to do is take the two screws off that hold the plastic on. That whole blue plastic is only attached by those two screws. They aren’t even through holes, so u can just loosen them and slide the plastic off.
Arrrr! Good news!
Re: the T-nut issue:
I can see fixing it, but is it really causing undue ball damage?
Have you seen all the other things a ball can contact on this game? E.g. even the auto plunger... it is literally two pieces of rounded metal that "bash" the ball into play...
Quoted from rs812:
On mine it was causing huge damage to the ball. It actually caused gouges, nicks, and sharp burrs in the ball.
I guess did this damage stop after the fix?
Great news if it did. I need to check my game and balls, I just didn't want to chase down that rabbit hole if it was being caused by normal game play, combined with a "new" game that had some naturally sharp edges here and there (that would dull eventually with ball impacts).
Ok; just had a look at my balls and they appeared as expected after ~200 plays, BUT my nut protrusion is not as pronounced so that may just be I lucked out there.
Quoted from DarthSinex:
Defying the laws of physics, if I hold the left flipper up to catch the kick out from the mystery hole it swoops through the gate to the left of the flipper and straight down the I hole. With the glass off, I can't see how that gate allows the ball to travel backwards through it, but it does...everytime. Anyone vaguely understand the way this is happening?
I have had this happen very rarely. I am sure there is some fix but I have not had reason to dig in. I have maybe lost one ball due to this that I can remember.
Quoted from joseph5185:
Yea. You’re right. I realized that when the game is pulled out I can easily get to those nuts on top.
If I can figure out what happened with the left flipper, I won’t take it off.
If your next post is declaring how getting to the spinner was hell please please please sell your game to Zaphx!
Quoted from gumnut01:
Yep, broken on both sides. Should’ve been made in China, then it would have lasted. [quoted image]
Hmm... pricey but at least available!
Not sure what connectors these are hooked into the bottom, does anybody have a link to those for the future?
Quoted from EaglePin:
Anyone know the correct/safe way to remove these rubbery connectors on the plastic protector that's over the starmap running alongside the chest? I'm trying to put in the PinballLife ship protector to keep balls from getting trapped under the Pearl, but I'm not seeing how to correctly remove these two rubber connectors and I don't want to force anything and break them. Thanks.[quoted image]
I installed the ship protector I ordered without removing the ship and without removing those rubber things. They were flexible enough I was able to just tip that upper plastic a bit and do the work I needed to do.
Quoted from LTG:
You can toss a nut down the coil sleeve. That would limit the plunger travel. Works great on coils that are straight up or down when the game is being played. And if you ever work on it, you might remember why it's in there. If you stick a longer plunger in there and some day replace the plunger, you'll likely forget a longer one is in there and put the original one back in and have the problem again.
LTG : )[quoted image][quoted image]
I am going to give this fix a try this week; I will post my luck about it later (probably 3 weeks from now). Thank you for sharing!
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