My NIB LE arrived today from Australia, and I need to convert it from 220 to 110. Is there a documented process for that? I’m comfortable with wiring.

You can still buy NIB at original pricing from Australia. Mine arrived this week and they have two left. No offense intended to Vic - that machine has nice mods and I’m sure will fetch the asking price.

I have my first questions after unboxing my new POTC.

The unpacking instructions say to remove any foam behind the playfield. I didn't have any white foam blocks, just this black block that's screwed in place.

The instructions say when converting from 220 I have to change the pins. I got those out no problem, but there's also a note that the power supply should have a sliding switch on the external case. I assume that's referencing the PC power supply pictured, but I don't see any slider (sorry for the bad picture, but it's just a Corsair PC power supply).

Lastly, I found a few loose bits in the bottom. Two locking nuts, one thumb screw, and one plastic screw cover. Any ideas?

20191216_010148423_iOS (resized).jpg

20191216_010227323_iOS (resized).jpg

20191216_010234132_iOS (resized).jpg

Thanks everyone - the interweb says some VS450 power supplies take 110-240 and others take 220-240. I might need to pull this one to see if there are any markings.

The official word from JJP is that some power supplies have a sliding switch, but the Corsair does not. In my case I don't need to worry about it, but it's impossible to predict when a machine might use a different power supply.

It’s also worth noting that the conversion requires more changes than just the Molex pins. JJP recommends buying the correct parts from them rather than modifying the existing power supply. So that’s what I’m doing.

From JJP: "The Euro power box does not have a US service outlet in it (for powering a soldering iron or light, when you're working on the machine). The varistor and thermistor inside the power box also have to be changed for use in the US, as does the line fuse - different voltage and current safety limits for the two configurations."

I'm glad Butch at JJP was so helpful - I might have damaged my machine otherwise!

Perfect! I’ll order the Stern. Mine registers but jams down.

I’ve searched the topics and the forum, so apologies if I missed an answer to this one.

My right sling rubber gets stuck behind the moving piece (I don’t know what it’s called). The thing that hits the sling to make it bounce the ball away gets outside of the rubber. It happens more often during multiball.

The top of the L-shaped plastic is correctly positioned so it hits above the rubber. The rubber is seated in the posts where it should be (in the indentations), and the posts are tight. I don’t see any obvious difference between the two slings, but it only happens on the right.

Does that mean a ring that’s tighter on the sling, or rubber with a smaller diameter?

I searched the thread but couldn't find anything like this. Either I'm dumb and misunderstanding how the Black Pearl ramp works, or my gate was installed backward. It seemed like the only function of the gate was to reject shots up the ramp and send them STDM. My game also never used the wireform return. I turned the gate around, which makes it behave the way that makes sense to me. The picture is how it came from the factory.

20200112_172010360_iOS (resized).jpg

Groan! Take your upvote.

Why shift the entire playfield? My auto plunger did this, so I just put a very small pad where the auto plunger hits the bottom of playfield. That keeps the mech from rotating enough to interfere with the manual plunger, and it doesn't affect the rest of the game at all.

Should the Black Pearl home position be level, or should it tilt to the left like mine does? Mine only tilts right at the very end of its movement.

EDIT: I watched some videos and it looks like that's normal. I'll have to adjust my ramp though, because my ball keeps getting stuck under the left flipper.

Exactly. I'm guessing I need to adjust the pearl?

This was a first for me. Started a chapter during multiball and a second ball got perfectly jammed between the post and a target. I had to take the glass off to get it out.

7A5E33EE-BBE1-48F8-985A-B01DCF9C5DB0 (resized).jpeg

I just secured my scoop with thread lock.

My action button, and I think many others, gets jammed. I suspect it's because the switch is mounted to the chassis at an angle compared to the button, which puts sideways pressure on the button causing it to bind. I temporarily fixed this by bending the switch spring up to give more upward force. Might be worth checking out.

Use a multimeter to check continuity of the closed switch and the wiring itself? Maybe swap the switch with a known working one to eliminate one variable.