(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech

By PinMonk

5 years ago


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  • 3,538 posts
  • 199 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by LOTR_breath
  • Topic is favorited by 125 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

29 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #2 INITIAL CHECK: Install 2 piece MAP Cliffy Posted by PinMonk (5 years ago)

Post #4 INITIAL CHECK: Remove all shipping foam? Posted by PinMonk (5 years ago)

Post #5 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Auto launch issue fix Posted by PinMonk (5 years ago)

Post #7 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Chest rejecting most shots fix Posted by PinMonk (5 years ago)

Post #12 TECH: SWITCHES. [Switch name] is not working Posted by PinMonk (5 years ago)

Post #13 TECH: SWITCHES. Game reports stuck MAP targets Posted by PinMonk (5 years ago)

Post #14 TECH: SWITCHES. Game reports stuck GOLD targets Posted by PinMonk (5 years ago)

Post #35 INITIAL CHECK: Installing Mystery Hole Cliffy Posted by PinMonk (5 years ago)

Post #47 TECH: RAMPS. Stop right ramp decal from tearing Posted by PinMonk (5 years ago)

Post #100 TECH: TILT. Tilt is too active/sensitive Posted by PinMonk (5 years ago)


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#156 5 years ago
Quoted from Hogey:

Haven't seen this issue mentioned. Received my Pirates a week ago. Great game. Had a couple small issues that my distributor was all over and took care of. One issue I still have is the monitor not being level. After I "lock" the monitor in place (meaning the brackets on the left and right side are pushed down and engage the "posts" on the monitor), the monitor is not level (lower on the right side). There is "slop" or "play" if you will (meaning that the monitor can still move up and down and back and forth even though it is supposedly locked. I've tried to wedge some foam under the right side of the monitor to jack it up and that has helped some, but it's not right. Anyone else have this problem? A friend has a DI and advised that that monitor has 2 posts on each side that are engaged by the brackets, which alleviates the problem. Not sure what to do about it.

Several have experienced this problem and it has been discussed in the main JJPOTC club thread, some with more and less success just messing with the JJP mounting hardware. I had no success adjusting the factory hardware and had to use a wooden wedge solution to solve it:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/108#post-4876871

#193 5 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

This was it when I received it. It's around the same now.

Yours is definitely off. Will it move further counterclockwise with the lockdown bar removed?

1 week later
#477 4 years ago

Installed the Cliffy around the MAP hole today, requiring the Black Pearl to be removed. Removing the rear VUK first makes removing the BP MUCH simpler!!

As I was getting to the MAP hole I discovered the T-nut was protruding into my MAP hole a substantial amount. I then checked the balls I just pulled from the pin and sure enough they has substantial nicks in them. Had to remove the metal subway from underneatth the playfield. Marked the overhang amount of the T-Nut with a fine Sharpie and ground off that extra overhang at the workbench, Reinstalled it and now everything looks perfect.

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Reinstalled the BP, hooked up the wires and tightened everything up. Everything tested perfect! Grabbed the playfield glass with gloves on, and without the glass touching a thing, only my hands, it did this:

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I have handled playfield glass thousands of times, and now this.......Scheiße!!!!

#487 4 years ago
Quoted from rs812:

Once you get the bottom side bare, you can simply thread the screw in from the bottom and pull the t-nut out.
The t-nut is really just a captive nut that allows you to screw in from the topside without holding onto the nut on the bottom side. As you screw in from the top, the teeth on the t-nut sink into the wood and keep it from spinning.

Correct, this is exactly what I did. To get to the T-nut you have to remove the metal subway, remove all the screws holding it, and remove 2 of the screws of the plastic subway above it to give the metal subway room to wiggle out. No need to detach the wires, just rest it up higher on the wire harness.

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#489 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Temperature change (cold room, warm hands, or vice versa) or even the slight torque from picking it up. It's definitely a thing. Only happened to me once so far, but I don't put glass on a cold cement floor anymore. Always put cardboard or something else under it.

Yeah, I've seen a couple pop when someone else tried to put one on cement or concrete. Always use carpet or cardboard, but like I said this one was about 3 feet away from where I picked it up. My guess is I put some torque on it.....still shaking my head!

#492 4 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

I can't believe you had the wherewithal to still write a cohesive post. You didn't get cut, did you?
What kinds of tools can a layman use to trim this blasted t-nut? Might as well get on this asap.

Believe me, the colorful metaphors have been FLYING this evening.....couple of scratches on my foot, as I had on sandals. I was wearing neoprene gloves, which saved my hands.

For the T-nut I used a dremel with a cutting disk and sanding drum.

#625 4 years ago

Black Pearl Removal: You do NOT have to remove the ramp!!!! Removing the rear BP VUK surrounding plastic and the VUK itself requires much less effort that removing the ramp and make reinstallation of the BP much easier!!!

#668 4 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

That display indicates one (or more) errors, most likely switches. Check the self-test report.

Or a disabled camera, which IMO should NOT warrant an post-up error message.....

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