Pirates of the Caribbean
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2018You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Yelobird.
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Quoted from harryhoudini:Heh... I'm just about error free!
Unless I read your posts wrong did you buy this second hand? Did the seller mention any of these issues as they are rather uncommon. Glad to see you are figuring it out. The spinner on the BP is a typical setup with an arm closing a switch contact. More then likely just out of adjustment. Sadly I suspect you will have to dry dock (pull) the BP to access the switch.
Quoted from arzoo:Correct you are! I didn't realize that it was one plastic that surround the VUK on both sides. Also seemed like the plastic traveled down the entire right side wall but in reality it's two pieces with the metal overboard plate covering the split. With plastic removed, the only real trick was finding a 1/4" hex driver long enough to reach the screws. And as expected, my flipper had a broken solder joint on the solenoid - easy fix.
Thanks again for the VUK trick.
Not to pile on but I wonder what process or line change happened at JJP that there were so many issues with solder on this game? I honestly can't remember seeing so many failed solder issues on Any title from any OEM before. I know they went a bit overboard on the zip ties but a good solder joint will usually stand a good pull.
Quoted from Axl:The balls get stuck here often.
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It looks like the ramp is bent out of shape.
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As I see it I have two options.
Either put a washer on the foxing on the post by the pirate lanes, or try to bend the wire forms back to shape. Very reluctant to do any bending.
Any other suggestions?
Personally I would just add a simple washer or 2 to the end of the wire form.
Quoted from joseph5185:Do you have plastic protectors installed?
If so, where did you get them? Link?
Are they really necessary?
Thanks!
None installed, none needed.
Quoted from wesman:Ooh, nice graphic!
But also remember do NOT use star posts unless you need them/have had damage already. Otherwise you'll have them sink into the playfield.
Anything and everything fastened to a clearcoated wood playfield will leave an indentation. Kind of like a steel ball will leave dimples everywhere. Unavailable no matter what you try. It’s pinball
Quoted from harryhoudini:The problem seems to be on this game is the dimples are leading to cracks and chips. Star post could prevent that... But maybe just preventative mylar could do it before it starts.
Completely agree. Was simply reminding that the primary reason for the star post is the distribute the screw torque load over a larger footprint. This can help minimize a possible crack as the circle footprint is larger but it will still indent into the clear. No way around that unless you don’t tighten the sling screws which I do not recommend. Technically, a flat washer of Any kind is the least damaging solution as it offers a Full surface contact compression. Mylar in my opinion does nothing but keep the chipped pieces in place. It’s all about the downward torque and how evenly and widely is it distributed. Personally I think all of this is overkill as long as the screws aren’t overtightened you should be fine.
Quoted from harryhoudini:That's the question for sure... was this simply the issue from the factory?
I'd love to find a clear, thin washer that would fit a star post exactly. I'll see how the white nylon ones I got from Marco fit, if not I'll check out the amazon options. Seems like someone with a "good" condition playfield would at least benefit from a small washer under the narrow posts (as it seems the factory started doing at some point).
I'll update my image to add a note about the start post necessity.
That’s the key here. Before this got blown into a dozen solutions the issue was known and technically simple. The solid post JJP used is Technically the best solution as the base is solid and has a full contact compression. A wide star post (by math) while a larger diameter is Hollow and has a smaller dig in footprint. The root issue was the posts JJP installed had a poor injection mold edge which was Sharp. Add to that the assembly people over torqued them which acted like a sharp chisel cutting through butter!! So to solve this they added a soft washer to counteract the sharp edge, problem solved!
Quoted from wesman:Does this clearcoat seem any different to you compared to prior JJP games?
Nope no different. In fact basically the same as all vendors.
Quoted from joseph5185:LEGIT dude.. Like, it has a list and then it has arrows. It was still a little Greek at first, but then once I realized I was chasing the wrong cable and I actually saw a diagram of it I was like "oh."
THIS is a turning point to always resort to the book.
Now if I'm being honest, I don't always know where to start in that book. (The physical book) Probably easier to search on a pdf or something!
On to the next thing...
(I won't be able to play tonight with the gf sleeping. Tried that before...didn't end well.)
Just a suggestion to consider for your next adventure. Consider Starting with the manual to see what and Why you are taking stuff apart so you know where you are going. I understand reading the instructions before diving in is never fun but you may find Knowing what you will see before your tear into it might prove to be valuable strategy and less stressful. The manual (especially a JJP manual) will provide a rather clear picture most times.
Quoted from zaphX:It is one of the best technical manuals for a product I’ve seen. Butch Peel deserves as much credit for the thorough manual as Eric does for the excellent game design.
Agreed. Which is why I always wonder why the Manual is the last place owners will go when doing game service? lol I admit skipping instructions like asking for directions but if I was New to pinball That would be my starting point to learn what I am getting myself into....
Quoted from LTG:Oh lord. I do tech support for them too.
Please don't try and fix anything on that.
LTG : )
Award for post of the Month. That was TOOOOO funny and to the point correct. LTG you always make my day thank you!
He has 482 posts in the POTC thread in Under 30 days. I am Betting the Over that he can beat that in the AFM threads.....lol
Quoted from harryhoudini:I feel like I need to keep reminding this thread that I'm not talking about the "pop". For a good 10 seconds or more after the power switch is flipped on my machine it makes many pops, cracks, loud whines, etc. My general volume is around 19 but I haven't been home to look at the individual levels, which has been discussed for another issue (audio clipping during the game). I haven't looked at the routing (nor changed it) of the audio cables, which I also intend to do. I mean, I obviously know what the pop sounds like.. my WMS games are very noticable and I could really care less about that, although it seems like it is somewhat easily solved on WMS games (per the other thread I linked) and probably should have been, and could be, solved on JJP games. I guess I'm anal, as apparently many pin folks are, so that would have been one of the things that I would have griped about during testing an original JJP game if that was my job. I mean, they revamped how a major pin manufacturer conceptualized componentry in an antiquated world, why still have the pop?
pinwoofer - how about offering a product to solve the pop? Might be a nice complement and I don't know of any other "audio" focused mod manufacturer so you seem like a natural fit. All of the older threads I've read from the WMS issue had bad links to people who maybe sold a solution at one time or another for WMS. I am betting that, much like your woofer kit, there could be a somewhat generic install that maybe just comes with the proper connectors for the various systems. You seem to have the knowledge and understanding of the audio and personally, if the cost was right, I'd be happy buying a kit if I didn't have to spend this tedious time trying to figure out how to resolve this. It seems like there are now (as compared to back when the WMS issue was hot) many options for these small chinese boards that do many, many things, so maybe there is a solution that can be easily produced. If not, it seems like the PCBs are stupid cheap to make... the prior thread (I think it was like 4-5 years old) had the cost of the PCB at like $30 a piece and there are only like 5 components on it.
Either way, I'll post my results when I get home. I've been kicking this around on reddit with folks way more qualified than I and they have proposed a few solutions but many of them above my pay grade, which is why I've been trying to source some sort of existing board. Since I don't know what exactly is causing my issue, and it could totally be a audio cable routing issue as it totally sounds like feedback, but I doubt I'll be able to get resolution any other way than fixing it myself. I'll definitely record it and post so everyone can hear and send it over to JJP for their comments, since the game is so new. But like I said, I'd nab 3 kits right now if they were $30. Heck, even if it was a componentry kit that I had to solder, if all the pieces were there and it was a printed PCB with clear instructions, sold. I mean, people are spending $60 on some plastic light up wands for TOM, $30 for a slick piece of componentry seems like nothing for this crowd.
(Oh.. and to clarify, I was lumping together the "pop" and the 10 seconds of craziness my game has in the "I'd pay $30 to fix this" because I was sort of falling back on the solution I am working on which is a power on delay circuit that would either keep the speakers from having audio or the amp from having power for X seconds after the game is turned on. I don't know, and reddit is mixed, if providing power to the amp later will still create the pop or if using a relay to disconnect the speakers will introduce another pop. The true fix for the pop on the WMS games seems to be something like this http://tuukan.fliput.net/nonoise_en.html and maybe that is the same for JJP, although the amp and such are completely different so not sure if it still applies)
HH. Have you tried all of the suggestions in the POTC owners thread already covered? From routing, unplugging cable etc already covered? Seems like this worked for most just not sure if you tried the simple solutions first. Again, with an issue specific topic like this its always best to start at the top of the thread and search the key word: IE; "Audio". This search in the owners thread offered Many solutions to this issue from owners, distributors, as well as JJP directly. Hope you can find a simple solution. Good Luck!
Quoted from gumnut01:Sorry everyone, just saw this post in the pirates forum:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/127#post-4908546
I shall try this!
Good man using that search function. Let us know if you have any issues with alignment. Need to sink that Dauntless!!! Congrats!
Quoted from joseph5185:FWIW,
Circling back to the potential MAP hole issues and the exposed screws.
I thoroughly inspected my balls before replacing and I didn’t notice any kind of damage.
I think this theory has been debunked that the MAP hole was causing issues with balls, but I said I would share.
Less then 4 hours ago and 20 posts you said you were just going to start playing your game? You came to this conclusion already??? Just poking at you, hope your playing the crap out of it with your tool box safely locked in the closet.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Hallelujah! I can make a tortuga hole shot now!! I'm not totally inept at pinball!
The replacement tortuga hole cover (snubber bracket) solves the issue!! Can't comment on the STDM yet, but the launch trajectory is definitely different.
New on left
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Closeup
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Oh and thanks to Steve at JJP for taking care of this so damn quick.
Called my distributor Mr awesome at KingPinGames and he has a new bracket on the way. Curious, what does this new design bracket help with? I assume bounce outs or something else.
Quoted from zaphX:I also have opinions about crazy.
Ok I keep wanting to look away from this thread but you keep firing off zingers that Make me not want to walk away. I am in tears laughing at this feedback. lol Sad but just can't turn away......
I'd like to make a suggestion because I so sincerely love Lloyd and he Is celebrating 7 years of Awesome JJP service. To ensure Lloyd #LTG another 30 years of job security #joseph5185 should Exclusively use the link at the top of the Pinside forum "Dear Lloyd" for all of his CGC, JJP, hell ALL games contact! Your welcome Lloyd, its the least I can do because we love you so much and Never want you to leave!!!!
Screen Shot 2019-05-09 at 12.47.51 AM (resized).pngQuoted from zaphX:The game self-test is not a 100% indicator. Plenty of things can cause problems that don’t get caught by the test. For example, magnetized chrome balls.
The stuck spinner is a physical device. Look at it. Spin it with your finger. Find out what is binding it. It’s not something we can see from the picture.
Quoted from joseph5185:You are correct, Sir.
I "thought" it was tight...but it definitely went tighter and it's NOT moving inside now. Thank you!
Oh...and I sort of fixed the left BP spinner.
So when I took this piece off, it spins very happy and freely. I guess somehow this plastic piece is binding in some way. Has this been discussed?
[quoted image]
This is feeling a bit like ground hog day... Not discussed in step by step detail but yes answered. Do NOT Take It Apart, Spin with finger and find out is and where it is binding! Bend, rubbing part as needed to make work correctly. Using your method, you did the opposite.... Don't think you'll follow this advise but what the heck. In Pinball, Don't start taking things apart till you know Why, and How and What the issue is. Then look, think, and adjust when you are Prepared to accomplish the task and know why your doing it. Worth a shot.
Ok, if ZaphX was serious, I am in for Half the cost of buying this. If only to Save it! lol
Quoted from zaphX:PROBLEM: Rubber in the star map / chapter select area is worn through.
SOLUTION: This is a lot of work and there's a lot that can go wrong, so be sure you're prepared...
1. Remove the Black Pearl (see other posts for this)
2. Block all the holes AND the rear orbit with shop towels. This is important!
3. Remove the 5 hex nuts that keep the plastic shield in place. Use a wrench under the plastic to hold the nut underneath when you remove the topside hex nut. Failure to do this will just cause the post to spin.
4. Once the plastic is free, lift up on the chest and rotate it clockwise to the metal bracket out of the way.
5. While everything is open, clean it! You won't get a better opportunity.
6. Replace the rubbers and reassemble in reverse order.
I failed to block the holes and I managed to lose a plastic post somewhere inside the bowels of the machine. I looked for it for over an hour, shook to listen for it, etc...never did find it. I happened to have the right post because I had spares from doing the star post mod so I eventually reassembled with one of those. Don't make the mistake I did!
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I have been trying for hours to do this but I can't reach the BP. Was I suppose to take the glass off?? Plus, the ship keeps moving should I remove it when it sways left or right?
Quoted from zaphX:LOL!!!!
I was kidding of coarse. I have a 4" pipe wrench on it now and all is good!
Quoted from gumnut01:Yes mine is level. It does not always go sdtm after star map but it happens often enough that it can ruin a game. It happened on my highest scoring game to date. Unlike a kick out, there is no deflector to adjust. There is no tinkering that can solve. I have a digital calibrated level. Game is 6.55 and level from side to side. Please people that do not have this happening, do not brush aside and say it’s not a problem. It is enough of a problem that multiple people have reported it. A configurable 2 second ball save is not going to affect you people who swear it never happens. You can have it turned off and not be affected. I have posted Keith but he has not responded. I hope this can be resolved. It’s not a deal breaker, just takes a bit of a shine off when it happens. Lyman knew this would happen during strobe Multiball in AFM so he added it. Sorry for going on, but it is disheartening to report something and then have it discounted by others.
Never discredit that someone has an issue. A game setup just .1 degrees different in any direction can yield different results so its understandable that some may have more issue then others. With that said I want to throw out a suggestion (not tested!!) to see if this Could solve this issue Now with minimal time and effort. The issue appears when the ball comes to rest after the bump around it flows perfectly to center. What if... you install a single clear plastic washer say 3/4" Under the post stud above the post sleeve. In theory, that would Just slightly push the ball resting position right or left depending on the side of issue. First you would need to determine does it more commonly happen when the ball comes to rest on the Left or Right of the post. Then install washer to the weak side. Just a thought and attempt to help those frustrated.
POTCCCC (resized).jpgQuoted from harryhoudini:Unless really jostled to the right mine almost always sits on the left and that is where the STDM almost always, if not always, happens from. I was pondering something several posts back about putting something there and your concept seems like it could have some legs.
Just trying to offer suggestions. Please NOBODY let Joesph know we are working on another modification!!!! Not great at trigonometry any longer but it does seem like if you could offset that (in your case) left post to push the ball slightly right and at a different position on the drop post you might have a solution.
Quoted from wesman:I'm assuming the "discounted by others" might be more a reference to how joseph5185 gets constant flak for vocalizing issues he's had.
Only edit I would make to your story. to ISSUES HE CREATED! lol
Quoted from harryhoudini:I should add that the rubber there is almost gone, so the ball sits way further left and up against the stand up target there. Likely this has some impact on it as well. Not sure what others are seeing there, but I still gotta bit that BP bullet and fix all those things (right spinner opto, cliffy install, t-nut, replace all rubbers). But... it's the only game that I own right now that is close to functional, lol. So I gotta put that off some more.
That stinks. I must say I always noticed and suspected that the games talk to each other! When one breaks I think they all decide to mess with you at the same time just to see that you pay them all attention.
Quoted from Psw757:Anyone able to identify these parts I found in cabinet?
Everything seems fine and could be junk from assembly but want to be sure.
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I say its a rubber ring and a screw! Winner!!! lol No idea may have been assembly drop ins on accident. Keep your eye on things and toss them in the coin box just in case.
Quoted from Psw757:Do you have a reference for the pearl schematic to see if both bushings are present?
Not sure why I’m not seeing this in the manual.
Post #399 of this thread OR simply click the image gallery found at the top of Any thread. Image with your part is shown.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Just the classic posts. I put 2 blue and 1 clear on each side to match the playfield sorta.
https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-translucent-star-posts-1-116-tall.html[quoted image]
Thats an interesting look with the multicolor posts. Like it.
Quoted from wesman:I was going to use two blue in the water, and a red up top.
Considering there's so much plastic there, might as well make it more pleasant than just clear I felt.
I think the red would great with the blue.
Quoted from JamCat:Does anyone know if it's possible to install the starmap on an SE? Or is the SE missing the connectors and other essential hardware for it? I've been trying to get an LE or CE and just can't get my hands on one to save my life. As soon as one is listed it's sold in minutes. I've got all of the instant alerts setup, but still miss out every time. I was thinking of buying an SE and trying to upgrade it as an alternative. What else is missing off the SE besides startmap, powder coat topper, shaker and invisiglass?
Fairly sure you can't add the starmap but I think you will enjoy the SE fine without it. Comparison chart as this comparison question keeps popping up.
POTC-Matrix-New copy.pdfQuoted from harryhoudini:Maybe a loose nut on the pawl? Seems like that would be a consistent issue.
If the pawl nut was loose it would rotate out of alignment but would not cause it to get weaker in extended game play. LTG is on the right path.
Quoted from EaglePin:Ha ha!!! You mean do it the easy way? I'm kicking myself for not thinking of that on my own. Thanks!
Or, you can start a catastrophe washer thread with thousands of the same solution! lol JK!
Quoted from joseph5185:I looked and I’m pretty sure my CE does not have that washer either.
When I looked at your photo that washer seven being there in the first place didn’t seem necessary.
It’s actually Very necessary. If you think a post can dig in wait till you tighten a stainless guide with no washer. It will shear through like a guillotine. You need a washer there.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Caught the ball skipping over the chapter select plastic. I don't know if you can get a good sense from the video, but it seems clear that the opto sensor is not the culprit. I can tell you the shot was fairly hard but clean. I can't tell precisely why it is riding up the ball guide. It obviously rides up and over the guide hits the star map and shoots back over the chapter select plastic. I can probably get this to happen once or twice a game. Any suggestions? I am guessing this isn't going to be good long term.
Skip ahead to like 1:19
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nKYfw8x7YGtg7cSz9
Dial down your flipper power. Just because they set a Standard setting doesn't mean its perfect for everyone. As is pinball, there are so MANY variables that effect the ball many of which are individually determined such as flipper rubbers used, flipper angle, flipper power, lever front to back, level side to side, playfield wax and probably 50 more that could be listed. Bottom line, if its hitting That hard (clearly) just dial it down a bit and move on. There doesn't always need to be a complicated solution to normal play. You need to be able to make the shots, not hammer them home. lol As is 101 trouble shooting you have to ask yourself Why is my game special and what was the last thing I did. As few if any have an issue like this you need to refer back to 101.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I should show you a video of the rest of the playfield. Chest is just makeable, the flipper power is definitely not crazy. They were on stock (when I got it they were turned way up and I was shooting out of the maelstrom). I just took them both down 2 below stock. Still doesn't seem crazy, but we'll play like that for a while and see.
Understood and while I don't know the scientific trig formula a simple Plus .2 degrees of playfield incline changes any coil setting plus or minus. If its hitting hard, (which in that video it appeared to be hammering the chest compared to mine) simply keep lowering power till all seems equal. Many confuse Default setting with Correct setting. Completely different.
Quoted from joseph5185:So I don’t I know if it’s limited to just CE, but has anyone had any very noticeable vibration coming from the left side of the machine while playing?
I pointed out CE because I think it’s actually the barnacle on the left that is contributing.
Though, not an issue on the right.
Edit: I added the felt tape to the bottom of the machine. Perhaps, I could try adding in a few other places as well.
Musttttt Resist but mussst ask. Ok, do tell more. How is the barnacle creating vibration and I so want to hear about the felt tape slathered to the bottom of your machine and why.
Quoted from harryhoudini:All you ever wanted to know: https://www.pinballnews.com/learn/level/index.html
Basically, for side to side level use a spirit level at two places on the playfield directly, near the flippers and as close to the top as you can get. You need a inclinometer to do degree tilt or use the built in spirit level. There is a phone app that some people use, specific to pinball machine leveling, you might give that a shot... not sure of the name. Like PinballLevel or MrLevel or something maybe.
PinGuy App
Quoted from Breger1:Sorry if this has been addressed somewhere else, I noticed my map not spinning consistently. Came to find the 2 screws holding the motor were out in the cabinet. Took it apart and put back in and gear alinged properly. Now it doesn't work at all. Is there a chance the motor went bad with the misalignment of the gear/grinding?
I suspect putting the screws back in moved the face of the small gear to high and it is binding against the Playfield. My guess is if you losses the 2 set screws on the small gear and lower it on the shaft it will work correctly. Before you take Anything apart see if this is the case by rotating the disk by hand. It should move freely and without rubbing. If by hand it moves freely then you popped the fuse associated on the main board. Simple fix. Good luck
Quoted from gumnut01:Yep, it’s been fully accepted by the whole family now. Brothers, Australian Spotted Mist. Charlie, the lighter one, always gets up on top of the glass at an inopportune moment. Likes to have his but on the glass during multiballs. Best place to sit right on top of the flippers.
You need to tell him puss-n-boots was a buccaneer from a different movie stay off POTC! Lol
Quoted from tgrinchy:Thanks guys - Yikes...I think you're probably right. Sounds like I'd have to destroy the map decal in the process to even check. Going to check in with my distributor and see what he thinks as well before I do anything.
You could get lucky and Hope the screw bites back down by holding the disk from spinning and tighten the shaft from below. I had a friend that the screw let loose and sadly the only option is a new disk decal to access the screw to shaft. Good luck.
Quoted from joseph5185:Update on the chest issue...
I think it’s an issue? Only locking balls maybe 25% of the time from what I feel are “valid” shots. A “perfect” shot does seem to lock the ball. I’m just not sure how precise the shot is supposed to be.
So my game was at 5.9 pitch and it is now at 6.5. I lowered the left flipper from 20 to 18 and the right flipper from 22 to 18. Was unable to lock one ball with these settings so changed both back to 20 and can sometimes lock with both flippers.
I’m curious what others have their flippers at if it’s not too much to ask and I’m even more curious if others have the right flipper stronger than the left or vice versa. Is offsetting the flipper power “fairly common/expected” depending on the game?
I really wish I could get this chest accepting balls at even a slight improvement. It’s just difficult to gage what adjustment needs to be made to the forks. I tried to manually lock balls with the forks raised but that proved to be pretty impossible.
Is the only real way to use slow-motion video to try and figure it out? I’m open to any suggestions that maybe others have had success with. Even knowing if I should bend to the left or right would be helpful, but difficult to say I’m sure as it can vary from machine. I have removed the assembly once already and the forks “seemed” tight based on the nuts anyways.
Appreciate the listen and help. Getting this chest right would damn near make my game 100% and completely dialed in.
Ok unless I read that wrong it Seems like you are going the wrong direction. You adjusted your game pitch from 5.9 (way to low in my opinion) Up to 6.5 (I prefer 6.8) and Then reduced the flipper power?? When you increase the incline you need to also (most times) Increase the flipper power or I suspect you will never hit that chest. Go up and continue to go up until it goes in. Make sure your not flying off ramps and you should be good to go.
Quoted from joseph5185:I was thinking 6.7 since 7 is my favorite number. Do you do 6.8 on pretty much all your pins?
Yeah, no rhyme or reason just easier for me to set all modern pins in the collection to the same number. For awhile I was constantly trying to dial one up another down but once you pass 20 machines (dam this addictive hobby...) you learn to just keep things as simple as possible. For me 6.8 on all works best and plays at a reasonable fast pace. For my older Bally games (80's) I go just under 6. Thats my crazy theory anyway.
Quoted from joseph5185:Really quick...
Anyone experience an issue where the chest forks aren’t retracting down enough on the playfield which can cause the ball to get stuck back there?
Not sure I have ever experienced that however like most mechanical mechs simply move the forks up and down with your finger to see if they are dragging. If it is bend where needed or adjust. If it passes the finger test operate the mech in the test menu and adjust coil as needed.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Ok, so how does one replace the pop bumper skirts? Do I really have to cut all of the lighting wires to release the skirt? I assume I'll have to desolder the motors from the spinning mechs, not entirely that bad but the lighting has 4 wires and not easy to get at. The other end is a plug I don't think I have tools to de-pin.[quoted image]
Im betting you have to desolder them from the bottom like a traditional pop bumper. Even if there was a plug I highly doubt its small enough to fit through the 1/8" holes in the pop body.
Quoted from harryhoudini:That one is ok, but the other two are wrecked so I was going to just pop on new ones I had. There is a plug.... but as with all pop bumpers there are two holes to thread the wires through and then those wires are joined at a plug. Even with a plug, there is no way to get that plug up through those holes. With normal pop bumpers you have to desolder or cut those wires to get them through the hole. Fine with 2 wires, but sucky with 4 wires. I'm guessing that is the only real option (other than de-pinning the plug).
FYI please I Hoping your doing a different color so I can get motivated to do mine. I SO think black would have looked better then the white they used.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Nothing to desolder from except the light circuit board... seems sketchy.
But those wires have to go somewhere under the playfield. Maybe a simple pin extractor to pull them from the molex plug below.
Quoted from Heater:OMG! This is really embarrassing. My upper barrel has never spun since I got it in January and never knew it was supposed to. Going to have to look and see why. Wow, I'm a winner!
Likely the setscrew in the top edge came loose. Good luck.
Quoted from joseph5185:Haha. That easy?
Mine went from difficult to impossible after adding height to the playfield to fix plunger.
Will definitely try this. Only issue for me with not locking it down is the yellow lever can interfere with the coin door which in turn makes it so the action button doesn’t always register.
You are correct. If you add secondary foam or other to the lock bar lifting up on the lock bar you will Need to also adjust the lock button to register correctly. You are Learning young Yoda!!! You have come along way Sincerely love to see how fast you are picking things up soon you will be the next LTG!
Quoted from gumnut01:bloody stupid place for a spot.
That was the First issue I had out of the box. Ball got stuck every hit towards the spot lamp. I ended up rotating it full towards the back and the plastic slightly lifts it up and no longer a ball catch. Its the simple things that can be frustrating. lol
Quoted from Soulrider911:Hey scallywags ☠️, need your help.
Problem 1:
—- Ball getting stuck on post in starmap
Symptoms: I noticed today that my ball frequently gets sick between the post and left post with runner in the star map area. I looked close at my friends today and it just may be that my posts on that left side are too tall... allowing the ball yo get wedged in between the post and the rubber?
Problem 2:
—- Dead mans chest having issues releasing locked balls when 3 locked
Symptoms:
3 balls locked in chest, chest attempts to release via mini magnet and it just buzzes then stops, buzzed then stops... as balls SLOWLY wiggle their way towards the left exit. Finally after about 10 second they will come out. Interestingly I tested it hand launching them in and works fine totally lost on this one.
LOVE ANY HELP thank you ! Happy 4th
Love any help
On condition 1 make sure your drop post is centered and the height is properly adjusted and tight.
On condition 2 can we assume you didn't buy new shiny magnetic balls for your game? Several posters have gone for days trying to adjust every setting only to find out the balls were magnetized. I only ask because doing them by hand works. If that is not the case have you tried adjusting that coil?
Quoted from Lermods:What's the fix for this sticky flipper? Tried to shorten the spring, didn't work. When the playfield is lifted it snaps back ok, when playfield is down it sticks sometimes. I tried raising the flipper just a bit, didn't fix it. Thx[quoted image]
Only suggestion would be to check your coil sleeve, check the spring, make sure the guide to flipper gap is correct or call #LTG after midnight! Lol. I’m sure you can fix this though good luck.
Quoted from harryhoudini:So... can someone else look to see this is happening on their game? The chest latch bangs right in to the first opto. Seems like that is going to break in no time. Solution? None I can think of aside from redesigning the release mech, which I've sort of been looking in to. Keep watching the video, I grabbed a flashlight.. my battery was almost dead, couldn't use the flash and I thought I could catch it without more light.
Not sure what I am looking at but looks like every coil mech I have ever seen? While you can redesign Every bracket on a game at some point what was designed is actually good enough for a game. If I was taking it into battle or sailing it across an ocean maybe fortifying every mech might be necessary but in this case it seems like it has worked this long....
Quoted from harryhoudini:The first opto sits right between the chest and the ball release mech. When the release closes (back in to closed position) it bangs right in to the back of that opto. Watch the opto move when the latch bangs in to it. It's the small black plastic piece on the left.
So it's not a bracket issue, it's a spacing issue. Everyone's chest bracket is fine too, until they start sheering off. Probably most won't even notice. It's obvious we can't just say, well the game was designed this way. It has flaws.
Harry do note I wasn't trying to dissagree or say the game is perfect I said I didn't know what I was looking at. Feel free to redesign. I was simply pointing out in time ALL parts will break so it's basically like chasing a squirrel. There is a reason companies like Pinball Life, Happ, the OEM's etc make replacement parts. They will all break its the nature of the beast we call Pinball. The metal ball always wins.
Quoted from 3pinballs:Problem fixed. Talked to Butch at JJP.
We had to remove the upper playfield. Underneath the playfield , which I would have taken a pic, in the center of the playfield there are 2 metal pins/rods. 1 is located near the top, near backglass, and one near bottom near flippers.
The pins have to go into the mounted hole plates. Mine was underneath the one near the flippers and not inside the hole, causing it to sit too low and balls getting stuck.
My friend got his game the other day and the same thing happened on his, but the tech was able to slide the playfield back towards backglass, then towards front of game and it went in without having to take then upper playfield off.[quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome write up. Thanks for sharing your fix!
Quoted from harryhoudini:Ok, wait... am I missing something? Aren't we just talking about reinstalling the BP back in to the mounting pins how it should sit? Or was it this way from the factory?
Yes he was sharing how to adjust the BP if the gap is off nothing major but helpful. Not everything needs to be a complete overhaul sometimes just a helpful support document. lol Appreciated.
Quoted from statsdoc:That hasn't fixed this completely for me. Would the next best option be to turn down the sling power?
What worked for me..... may not for everyone is to simply (slightly!) increase the 2 blade switch gaps. The objective was to make the ball compress the rubber ever so slightly more which decreased the fire range of the arm. Again, may not work for all but this simple adjustment (with a finger) worked well for me and no issue again.
Quoted from tgrinchy:So I’m starting to experience intermittent stuck flipper on the right side of the BP.
Pressing the coil shaft all the way in with my finger causes some resistance and can stick if push in the full throw. Is lube a bad idea or what would be best route to address?
What everyone said and do Not use lube on flipper mechs!
Quoted from tgrinchy:Wow, thanks everyone - a wealth of great info! I’ll give these a shot when I remove the BP again.
If your more of a see it done kind of person I strongly suggest watching master LTG's flipper setup video. As I suspect your flipper may simply be binding in the nylon guide this may help get you going. FYI your POTC did not come with the tool he mentions but a simple plastic credit card will work just as well. Good Luck.
Quoted from Heater:Two questions I hope can be answered.
I noticed the Star Map pop up post comes up ok, but has become slow and even hesitates half way down before it fully retracts. What should I look for?
Second, and a minor one, I have yet to have any of the patches or pirate hat show up on a picture since the update. Does anyone think adjusting the sensitivity of the camera would give a better chance for it to happen?
Best I could suggest is make sure the post (#3) is not rubbing and is centered on the hole in the playfield. Its possible your coil sleeve may be gnarled up (#5) but try centering first. As for the pics, sadly I haven't played well enough to warrant a photo capture lately..... Good Luck.
Screen Shot 2019-07-28 at 11.59.06 PM (resized).pngQuoted from Maide:I finally took my BP off the game to try to fix some of the issues I've been having with one of the Bonus X stand-ups. I thought it was just gaped too far, but upon closer inspection it's just mounted on the mini playfield too close to the rubber, so it will only activate with strong pressure.
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I tried loosening and pushing it further to the right, but as soon as I get tighten the screw at all it goes right back; the bracket doesn't really allow for any horizontal adjustment. Not sure what can be done but filling the old screw holes and mounting it again?
I also wanted to ask if both BP flippers were supposed to have the same amount of movement, or if my left flipper's movement is intentionally shorter? [quoted image]
The right flipper has a ton more movement in my game, and I can't remember if the left flipper was always this way, or something that has gotten worse over time..
Left and right flipper are the same on the BP. I suspect your Left flipper is at the end of travel (the flipper itself) against the rubber on the playfield which is not letting the plunger fully release. Adjust the flipper topside with the pawl nut below and I am betting you will be good.
Quoted from Maide:I finally took my BP off the game to try to fix some of the issues I've been having with one of the Bonus X stand-ups. I thought it was just gaped too far, but upon closer inspection it's just mounted on the mini playfield too close to the rubber, so it will only activate with strong pressure.
[quoted image]
I tried loosening and pushing it further to the right, but as soon as I get tighten the screw at all it goes right back; the bracket doesn't really allow for any horizontal adjustment. Not sure what can be done but filling the old screw holes and mounting it again?
I also wanted to ask if both BP flippers were supposed to have the same amount of movement, or if my left flipper's movement is intentionally shorter? [quoted image]
The right flipper has a ton more movement in my game, and I can't remember if the left flipper was always this way, or something that has gotten worse over time..
On the upper skull switch your best option would be to simply set the contact gap closer so the target throw to activate would be greatly reduced vs trying to move the switch. Good Luck.
Quoted from Maide:I'm afraid that I'd have to make it so sensitive that non-hits would trigger it; as it is, you have to press down the right-side hard to make it trigger. Dang. I'll try contacting JJP and see if they have any ideas.
Thanks, I'll make them the same, just need to figure out how much of a flip that is haha. For the rest of your comment, do you mean the left in my picture (which is the right flipper when not upside-down), or the right in my picture (normally left)? The left in my picture is the flipper that has much greater amount of movement, but maybe it flips too far? The right (in-picture) is the one that flips less.
I was referring left or right that the flipper bat throw from the Top needed to be adjusted so they don't bottom out before the plunger can fully extend. In your picture (bottom side) the coil plunger is not fully extended meaning that (right or left) flipper is hitting full travel to soon. Hope that makes sense.
Quoted from dts:Question for this thread. I am having inconsistent firing of the ship VUK. If I land it in the hole from the shooter lane, it doesn't always register. Lift up the machine and it fires, but tilt warnings. Tried messing with the opto, checked to see if the ball is getting stuck. Anyone else have this problem?
Hard to describe but a local friend had the same issue granted his game was set up Steep at close to 8 degrees. Feeding the VUK going backwards is a clear plastic flap. His was slightly bent up. A small heat source like a hair dryer and I was able to bend it down slightly and stay and the problem went away. Hope this helps.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Agree. The problem is not the magnet, the ball gets lost when the magnet releases the ball. The ball is supposed to go into the subway that feeds the VUK. This is where the ball is getting lost. Not sure if the ball just hangs outside the subway for a while or if it’s getting stuck in the subway somewhere, somehow.
I believe this issue was covered several times in these threads but from memory you start with making sure your game is level left to right, Not pitched to steep 6.7 ish (balls don’t run uphill in VUK trough) and adjust or shim the clear plastic trough flap so the ball rolls towards the vuk. Fairly certain others documented this fix in detail just didn’t find it. Good luck
Quoted from KornFreak28:Really interested in the adjustment of the clear plastic subway. We’ll search for it. Thanks!
I know for mine there is a straight (about 1” wide) flap on the clear subway. That flap did not lay flat against the metal VUK rather it was raised a bit not letting the ball on occasion roll back. For me, I pulled it and using a hair dryer used a bit of heat to lightly bend it down. Reinstalled and never an issue again. Others I believe simply added washers or the front corners to taper it back mechanically. Hope this helps.
Quoted from Skipnatty:All things check out except mech doesn't really move freely up and down, it's a bit choppy in its movement if I move it by hand. Screws are all there and tight.
Is there an idea around how far under the playfield the forks should be sitting while in the down position so as to calibrate how far up they throw when activated? There's essentially a "point of no return" where if I push the forks up too high, releasing the clasp does nothing and they don't fall to their home position.
As HH pointed out you may need to do some careful bending to the forks so they are centered on the slots. You know you are there when they do not hit the sides and it moves freely. Until that happens it will never work perfectly.
Quoted from DerGoetz:JJP POTC PLAYFIELD "BANDAID" GUIDE
Was thinking about making this a new post but decided to squeeze it in here instead. This will be a longer one.
First of all, I was one of those who got a call from Jack after I filed a claim through their website and supplied photos of my Collector's Edition pooled and chipped playfield.
Backstory: Before I ordered my POTC CE through Joe Newhart I asked Joe what would happen should my CE look like the CE that I had just played (January 2019) at the Durham Boxcar Barcade before I picked up the phone to order one from Joe.
That one at Boxcar showed heavy pooling in multiple places.
I made it clear that I would not take the risk of purchasing should the situation not be under control and should there be no adequate support. I was told that SINCE it was the Collector's Edition I would be experiencing preferred treatment should anything happen in regards to the playfield.
Now here we are, I own a heavily pooled POTC CE, in one place there is chipping and I have Jack on the phone.
And he said his piece, offered me a new playfield. I kindly explained that not him, nor Joe nor I myself will have the time to install a playfield here at my house and that the offer is not good enough as it has no immediate value, having the playfield repopulated would cost me a further expense of at least US$1000 and why should these US$1000 come out of MY pocket?! There is three parties involved here and I am the one taking the biggest hit??
To say that we had a discussion would be an exaggeration. He said his piece, offered me a new playfield and would not reply nor react to my concerns. Instead he wished me a good day an hung up.
Joe was on a well deserved vacation and I made sure to contact him and Jack via email. I shared, twice, my concerns with Joe, that offering a playfield is unacceptable for a Collector's Edition customer who paid such a premium and was promised preferred treatment should EXACTLY this happen. When I emailed Joe I had JJP in the CC to keep it fair and transparent. They did not address my concerns.
Instead I was told that the replacement playfield is being made in the near future and will be coming my way. Oh, good to know.....a one sided agreement, that is new to me.
Now, I have never been treated by a company like that before. A complete one-way conversation with a one-way solution at a 12.5k pricepoint. They did not try nor want to discuss with me what I would feel an adequate solution would be. I was force fed their preferred solution.
So be it. I'm a quick learner.
Let's tackle that playfield as I sure as heck will NOT do a swap.
First I ordered that Iron that you guys recommended, was it Vireland or Houdini?
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I then got, from https://www.microfasteners.com/neoprene-bonded-steel-washers.html their size 10 rubber-backed washers.
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From Jersey Jack their POTC post kit (Thank you JJP, you guys sent it out next day and it was here in no-time, now THAT is service!!!)
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Both slings were pooled, the left one had a nasty chip. I'm only showing the left side to make it at least a bit shorter of a post.
I removed the posts.
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And that showed me how much that pooling had pulled the paint and clear back
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Now it was time to heat up that iron and press down for only a few second.
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Hard to see but the pooling was completely flattened, all that was left was the slight indent of the post in the wood. NICE!
Of course there was little I could do about the chipping.
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But I was going to install the star posts and washers that JJP supplied
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NICE!!!!!
Now for the posts:
There are two kind, the ones that end in Blind Nuts (short posts) and the ones that go through the playfield, show a washer and Lock Nut under the playfield (long posts). Those are typically the ones that are to be moved in and out to close and open the outlanes.
Heavy pooling in all locations on the lower part of the playfield.
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etc....
For the short ones (ending in the Blind Nuts) I used the small plastic washers that JJP supplied as there was no room to add the rubber-backed ones.
First step flattening, the pooling again was completely gone, only the indent wood remained
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Then I added the JJP washers
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For the adjustable posts (long) I used the rubber-backer #10 washers.
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Pooling
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Flattened
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Install
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Done and I am happy with it.
To make it clear as I know that some of you will already be foaming at the mouth:
Crap happens! And I know it. It happens in my line of work all the time, Murphy's law is in full effect - always.
Now it is up to the manufacturer and dealer on how to make it right by the customer.
It was disappointing is that I as an owner of a Collector's Edition - who even brought THIS EXACT scenario up before purchase - got the standard treatment, no discussion. We did not even agree on anything, they "agreed for me"
Again, I am fine with the way the playfield repair turned out, I can now look at my POTC and smile again, all is forgotten when it comes to the pinball itself. What I am not fine with is this "Collector's Edition" experience that I had the pleasure to experience.
Glad to see it worked for you. I have since tested the hardness in that area with a shore hardness tester and it proved much harder granted not a scientific test. One add on thing I did (which I have not finished testing) is after using the iron I used a UV curing lamp (for nails) placed over the spots. That Drastically hardened the areas but I will add detailed info to the link I already started on the DIY thread.
FYI, would love your feedback on that thread to help others. Many have a fear of the word "Iron" which should more be considered a "Press".
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Got one too! It worked great on my Beatles Gold with pooling - which was out of warranty. Looking forward to seeing YeloBirds UV curing lamp as well.[quoted image]
HEY! For the Record, its my Wifes curing lamp!! I haven't done my nails in Years!! lol
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Does anyone know yet if this issue is due to too short of a cure time, or if it’s a crap clear composition?
Only based on My machine (in this case a Wonka and Beatles) the areas where the clear was directly on wood I have no pooling. Wood to ink print with clear over.....Thats another story. They are all pooled or indented. Not saying thats the case for JJP for certain but from what I have seen and fixed if there is art under the clear its a swimming pool.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Where did you guys purchase your irons from?
From post 2116 above all info is in that thread if your interested. Repairing another pair of Wonkas and a POTC today. Almost as fun as playing them! NOT!
Quoted from KornFreak28:Awesome, Thanks Dave! Is there a risk of the clear pooling again after this fix? I was thinking that cutting the clear around the hole (on the inside part) and securing the area with glue might help the clear stay put for good.
Personally I would Strongly recommend Not cutting anything as there is No going back from that! For my option and my results a have had it Pressed to gone for close to 2 months now and I see No further issues thus far. No pooling and luckily before any chipping occurred. Time will tell I guess. Rather simple to do though. Not to call them out but one of the distributors requested I give them a full on kit and they have opted to take the initiative themselves to unbox ever game in stock and mend them all to better serve their customers. Rather awesome to see in my book and no easy task.
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Okay I started having trouble in two areas - 100 plays into ownership and need a guiding hand...
1. Balls draining down the middle aren't registering once they enter the ball trough. I'm going to check level on the playfield tomorrow and insure left to right is good. Do I need to clean an opto as well? The problem is intermittent, and shaking the game to the point of tilt helps the opto trough identify the ball.
2. The Chest will not release captured balls all of a sudden. Was working great, but now won't release. If my ball in play drains, the magnetic switch will click on and off trying to get the balls out. Can someone point me to the pictures of where we are supposed to lightly bend back the metal tab holding the balls? I'll also check to make sure the Magnet is fully engaging the release mech too. I really feel that this Chest issue should be a sticky in post number 1. Can't find it in the thread.... but I know it's there. Many on the "fan" thread though?
Thanks so much in advance!
Murph
Both symptoms sound like the balls are magnetized. Just a guess. Hope you figure it out.
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Thanks for all the great replies!! I will check for magnetized balls. Why would magnetized balls not allow a drain to register in the trough? Just curious. Also when I do drain and it doesn’t register, I’ve let the game sit idle for more than 20 seconds before shaking the pin near tilt for it to find the ball.
I’ll let you know the status. And thanks for the bending tip for the small magnet on the chest!
My guess is the trough is metal and magnets stick to metal?
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Okay - for those guru's that guessed I had Magnetized Balls.... you are RIGHT! Every single ball is magnetized. Some balls only in ONE SPOT - which would
explain the randomness of the balls not draining in the trough. I don't know if I've solved it, as I have no "new balls". I'll be running by Marco Specialties after lunch tomorrow ( On Friday's I work about 5 miles from their shop). Should I just order a sleeve of their Standard Silver Jets? Or a Special ball of some type?
Here's the thing - I've got less than 100 plays on the machine. Weird that they would magnetize so quickly. Should I expect to have to change them every 100 games?
More to come tomorrow - after I load in 5 new ball! : )
Murphy[quoted image]
Thanks for taking the time to post this and illustrate. I suspect many problems happen due to this issue. Nice to see it shared visually for all. Thanks.
Quoted from LTG:I hate seeing anything exposed, in Hanes.
LTG : )
Lol to funny. Christopher always has underwear on his mind (or on his head)
Quoted from dug780:Problem: map stopped spinning recently. I have less than a half a volt going to it. Also a couple weeks ago the LED light in the start button stop flashing. The bulb does work. I did test that as well and have less than a half of a volt going to that socket too. Any help would be greatly appreciated![quoted image][quoted image]
This happened to me once and with LTG’s help it was one of the fuses in the back box.
Quoted from joseph5185:I appreciate the effort guys. I really would like to get this figured out so I'll do everything I can to figure out the inconsistency. Like maybe take a picture of the ball prior to every plunge and did figure out if it's good or not. If it is, was the ball in a different spot?
My girlfriend put the idea in my head that *possibly* the ball travels slightly different on each plunge. If it hits the damaged area then bad plunge. Otherwise, good plunge.
I'm not sure how much effort I want to spend on it if the rail is more responsible than I realize because I'm still pending a replacement.
Again, the auto plunges always seem weaker, but I'll pay attention to this when I start multi balls or something.
Am I correct in thinking/assuming the autoplunger will not quite be as powerful as a manual plunge, by design? Or should they be pretty equal?
Thanks again.
Ok not calling this Groundhog Day but you already Fixed this once and went through this same deal many months ago? In your post #1330 you even pride yourself on fixing it 100%?? What happened since then or what did you last do to undo your working plunger.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Dang. Motor relay board out of stock. I put up a wanted ad. I’m willing to pay $40 shipped if someone has an extra.
Usually just $18 at JJP. The board is used on other JJP pins and will be in stock at some point. I just don’t want to wait for who knows how long.
While not a huge offer, if you were interested in shipping me the board I could put it in my machine to verify it is 100% the issue or not. If you got it shipped on Monday my guess is I could confirm it by Wednesday and have it back next day. Not sure I can fix it but I could certainly test it for you. Just let me know if your interested.
Quoted from Vitty:After aiming my tortuga vuk and adding loc-tite as well as adding the pad to the coil stop I am still getting kickouts SDTM. The frequency has decreased but they are still happening at a decent clip - usually at the worst times too. Arghhh
Curious, are you using the updated snubber VUK bracket JJP sent out or the old style original one?
Quoted from wesman:I remember reading Eric state on at least one occasion that they switched to stronger hooks for Pirates....but then again, my hooks and receiver were so not friendly, that I have no idea if the issue was resolved fully.
That said, I was reading through the Hobbit thread from 3 years back, and holy shit....there were two poor souls that made back to back posts regarding their really, really busted up hooks...maybe due to shipping or who knows really.
Fact is if you look at how the traditional playfield hook is used technically in transport on its backside the playfield is basically Hanging from these little hooks. Compound that with a freight truck finding ever pot hole on the interstate and basically that’s a 700lb force yanking those hooks down all the way to your house. They try to add foam additional support in the back of the playfield but it’s never going to fully keep this from happening. Make them to strong and they crack.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:That is a great idea also. I'll contact JJP first and find out if they will fix/verify. If they will not, I'll PM you and get your shipping info.
Thank you VERY much for the offer!
Hey #Volunteerpin just wanted to let you know your motor relay board arrived on Friday. Well I have some good news and some Not so good news. Took my game down and tested both the relay firing as well as the motor operation and the board is perfectly fine. The bad news is you need to keep looking for your issue. But again, at least your not SOL waiting for the relay boards to come back in! I will wrap it back up and ship it back to you tomorrow. Sorry was hoping this was the issue for you or at least try to fix it but it appears the issue is still at your end. I still say Double Triple check the fuses. That is the Same thing that happened on mine and it oddly ended up being a fuse I assumed was fine. Good luck to you!
Quoted from luckymoey:Took a look at the manual and it's a pretty simple circuit. If the relay board and wiring are good, then it could be the transistors (Q417 & Q418).
Basically, the game processor is sending signals to the transistors to rock the ship back-and-forth. When the transistor gets a signal, it completes the 12V circuit across the motor winding. There should always be 12V between J1-5 at the relay board and ground braid. Looks like when transistor Q417 is pulsed it allows 12V to flow through the motor to J1-3/J109-9 rocking it in one direction. When Q418 is pulsed, it pulls in the relay coil which flips the DPDT relay switch and allows voltage to flow through J1-4/J109 rocking it in the other direction.
First I'd confirm there is 12V between J1-5 & ground, and J1-2 (normally closed side of relay switch) & ground. If OK, then put the BP motor in test and see if there is 12V between J1-1 (normally open side of relay switch) & ground when the relay is pulled in.
If voltages check out, then I'd test the transistors. TIP transistors are easy to test but I'm not sure about MOSFETs. There are probably some threads on here or videos on the web.
I know the basics, but could certainly be missing something. Hopefully Lloyd or someone else experienced with JJP games can weigh-in.
When you say Rock the ship back and forth are you looking for something different? He is having trouble with the spinning disk motor not working and thats the board he sent me to verify is working. Did I miss something?
Quoted from luckymoey:His prior posts all discuss the BP motor not working and J109 which provides power to the BP rock motor. Not sure if the relay board is the same.
Was just a bit confused as the board he sent me was for the spinning disk lol. That board was fine. I fear we are all trouble shooting opposite sides of the game. Do hope he can get it working.
Quoted from luckymoey:Looks like the ship and map use the same part number relay board.
If the map is working, I'd switch the boards to double check they are both good. Unlikely that both transistors are bad. Could even be a bad motor. Should be easy to jumper 12V directly to the motor wiring to check.
I agree with your direction. As he verified he has 12v to the board and the board is good I would focus on J109 wire 9 to make sure it is sending a signal. Could have somehow killed the Q417 driver. Should be able to test it.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:(By the way yelobird ley me know how much I owe you for shipping board back to me)
Darin[quoted image][quoted image]
Nothing owed just trying to help a fellow pirate find his way out of Davy Jones locker. Lol. Hope you get it figured out.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:You ever have one of those moments of elation only to be followed by a let down. That was me and JJPOTC tonight...
Finally found a little time to keep troubleshooting. Just out of curiosity I switched the motor relay boards from the spinning disc and the BP rocker motor. After trying a few things I realized I could get the disc working with either board (which is what I expected after getting it back from yelobird ). More interesting, however was that after trying a couple of different things, I actually got the BP motor working also! I was extremely excited. When I had it working I had the board kind of floating in the air by the 5 pin molex connector. So, excitedly, I put everything back together and much to my disappointment, the disc worked fine but no BP rocking.
Went into the BP test and nothing. Tried reseating the molex connector probably 10-15 times...nothing. Tried taking it back to the"floating board" position and still nothing. Only thing I can guess is maybe a loose or intermittent connection? I did notice the power wire coming off the board and going TO the motor is a little loose in the Molex connector but when I test it there seems to be continuity.
I can play the game but the BP doesn't rock at all. There are obviously a gazillion things going on with the game so I have no idea what I'm doing yet. Any insight on how I can further track down this issue?
Sadly, I'm going to have to read up on the TIPs and MOSFET you speak of above. Since I actually had a working BP motor briefly tonight would that rule out a bad TIP or MOSFET?
Try one last time. This time swap those boards and see if the ship keeps moving and the disk stops this time. Hopefully if that’s the case and the fact that it Did work a bit for a short time I would bet there may be an issue with the solder joints on the five pins on that board as a motion stopped it. Simple enough to swap them.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:You mean on the motor control board, yes?
Thanks for all the suggestions. It will be a week or so before I can address this again but feel free to keep suggestions coming.
Darin
Assuming a week or so means your traveling so..... If you wish to send me Both boards this time I will reflow All pins and send it back again. Your call trying anything to help you out. Would honestly take me 10 minutes and could return same day they arrive. Just let me know and consider it done. I honestly think you have an issue with the pins on the board of possibly one of the wires in the molex has a loose grip pin. Most times while in test if you simple move the molex plug side to side and up and down you will loose signal showing the bad pin.
Darin, the reason #LTG and others suggested reflowing pins is because in one of your last test posts you made mention that both motor setups worked when moving things around till you tried to slide the game in. That would suggest that there are no issue with a major component (good thing) and more then likely a connection or loose wire. Having shown those tears in the heat shrink tube in your photo that is where I would start. Don’t remove the motors simply and carefully cut back the remaining heat shrink tube on those motor connections to see if the wires are damaged or lose. It’s very possible a simple reset solder of that wire connection may get you going. Heat shrink tubing is available at most any (open) auto store. In a pinch simply use a small diameter rubber/plastic tube to cover them after repair. Make sure the resister (yellow) is also well connected while your in there. Don’t start cutting and moving motors as you know now they are good and you need to find the loose connection not simply move it. Good luck.
PS if you get frustrated just call #LTG on the service line. At this point he would Love to put down his mop and talk to Anyone about pinball instead of cleaning. Lol
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Thanks for the input.
The reason I double checked the motor relay boards was for that exact reason. Today both boards worked the spinning disc flawlessly.
I'll cut back the shrink tubing and look at it better. If it is just resoldering a wire, that is a skill I do have. I have the equipment and the shrink tubing too.
I'll update later today with my results.
Good luck.
Quoted from LTG:Hey Dave. You asked me what I want for Christmas. Here it is.
LTG : )[quoted image]
Will this and a broom work?
D20B861C-2D7C-4E0F-8196-2F95C1020B8F (resized).jpegQuoted from VolunteerPin:SUCCESS! Black Pearl is Rockin' (literally!)
As with many pinball issues I have trouble-shot over the years the actual fix for a problem was very easy. It is the diagnosis that is so frustrating.
So, in the end I simply had broken wires at the Black Pearl Rocker Motor. I gently cut back the chewed-up heat shrink and even before I had got finished the wires simply popped off. Both the 12V and the ground wire had somehow been severed right where the wire came out of the wire jacket.
Here is a photo of the new wire install (before shrink heating the tubing which I did do) and a short video of the working BP.
Thank you to everyone for your help, especially @yelobird.
Couple of take home points if anyone else has to troubleshoot the rocker motor or even the spinning disc:
1. Both use the same motor relay board. You can switch the boards to make sure you don't have a bad board
2. You can jump the 12V power from one mech to the other mech to make sure you don't have a bad motor
3. Don't ever forget that connections can break. I wish I would have thought of that earlier and inspected the motor earlier in my diagnostic process.
Video:
Photo:[quoted image]
CONGRATS! Job well done now you can get back to plundering the seas ARghhhhh. Trouble shooting for some is not a pleasurable experience but it can be gratifying when you solve the puzzle. I have always found the best starting points of diagnosis always yield the best result. 1 What was the last thing I did, and 2 What does here does not look normal in this picture (bent part, frayed wire, pinched whatever, etc) and start from there. So glad you not only fixed it but maintained your coarse without giving up in frustration to solve the puzzle. Have a Piratey week of fun!!!!
Quoted from Spaghetti73:Hi all thanks for your valuable advice, i m new owner I searched the forum but I can't find answers to my problem i hope you can help me. I have a frequent and annoying problem with a ball lost during multiball which forces me to stop the game and remove the glass. the subway of the black pearl vuk ONLY during multiball does not allow the ball to reach the kicker to exit, if I raise up the play Field i feel the ball slide towards the kicker and then exit ... how can I solve? It is possible that some balls have become magnetized ? About 200 played. Thank you very much . I am attaching a short video ☠️☠️
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0yNxDRUXcLiQ0oV1tyYqRBV1A#Rocca_Priora
I'll try to describe but I know there are pics in this thread. There is a plastic trough with a long flap that feeds the VUK. I have fixed a few where the plastic flap is Up a bit to high to feed. Remove plastic and using a hair dryer apply a Slow heat to the flat and bend it down. Done correctly it should touch the metal VUK trough. Also it is Critical that your game slope side to side and front to back is correct. Good luck.
Quoted from zaphX:Search the main POTC thread for "subway fix" or "ace hardware." You need a post by the plastic opening.
I think thats for the other ship trough not certain though. Dauntless trough.
Quoted from Spaghetti73:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thats the one. Remove and mend if needed the Clear plastic trough. When removed you will see the long flap that is sometimes bowed up holding the ball. Also (again) you need to know the pitch of your playfield. As the ball is trying to roll to the Back of the playfield it will have trouble if your playfield is set to 8 degrees pitch or more. I am at 7.3 ish and it works fine. Good luck.
Quoted from Spaghetti73:Hahahaha what a change !! I played at least 12 multiballs, dice liars, 6666666, one wizard mode .... I set the inclination level slightly below the third notch ... very, very, very, very happy ...my wife too.[quoted image][quoted image]
Glad to see you happily plundering together again. Have fun!
Quoted from wesman:So....
My action button isn't registering. The screw is very extended on the button. What concerns me is the contact switch, in the white module, is limp. I bent it some upwards, but it just flops down and lays on the red switch button. I assume it should extend firmly up at a diagonal, versus just resting on the red button/switch.
Any ideas folks..?
The blade setup is a fairly common and simple switch used in all areas of pinball. First make sure the Mini screws going through the stacked blade assembly have not loosened up. Mini Philip’s I believe. Make sure they are snug and the switch is aligned when doing so. Then verify that the gap on the contacts is close but not touching. You may need to pull the bar a few times to adjust that. Good luck.
Quoted from LTG:Too much information.
Take the lockdown bar off. Please go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed. Push the arm of the switch. Does it register ? If so the button isn't reaching it. Then adjust the arm or a blob of hot glue on the end of the button where it contacts the switch arm.
If it doesn't work in test. Then check wiring, and then check the switch.
LTG : )
Tell us how to work on the Limp problem #LTG. Lol
Quoted from wesman:Oooh, well then that switch part should be good, at least!
I thought initially last night I might need to realign that assembly. It was screwed in tight, and I screwed it back in after recognizing that there's no play in it's location, unlike say the shooter rod assembly.
I'm going to have to check all of that out tomorrow, seeing where the button is making contact, when the playfield is up, and lockdown bar in place.
Unfortunately, my lockdown bar assembly is still way off, and the yellow handle can't really clear very well when trying to lock things down. I don't think that'd be part of the problem, but I might need to address that......and my wonky shooter assembly as well. The autoforks are still making contact with the plunger, even though I tried to adjust the assembly the other week. I think I'm going to have to shim the hooks with material underneath, even more...Did not, but definitely will! I wonder if me having to press the door and lock assembly in firmly, may have jostled a connection....
Will do all of the above tomorrow!
Thanks to everyone that took time to read about my problems, and offered solutions, tech wise and medical wise, haha!!!
Just a suggestion but you might start with figuring out what is restricting the lock bar from closing correctly to start. That lock is what aligns everything. I have personally Never had a single game where I had to shim the Playfield hooks. To me that is simply compounding an error to make New issues. Just my opinion. When you over correct one issue you usually create many new issues.
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:I was having trouble with my spinners on the black pearl and come to find that the left and right spinner opto’s are completely destroyed! Does anyone know where I can get replacements? Are parts available through Jersey Jack with the move To Illinois and the Covid-19 epidemic? Part # 18-005003-00.[quoted image]
Yes they should have them and also offer a free protector plastic to cover that in the future. Good luck.
Quoted from Galooch:So this morning I needed to move my machine for the first time (only about 10-12 feet) but we did need to fold down the backbox. I thought I was careful enough but when I turned it back on I found this error on the screen:
"Trough error: All optos active. Check connectors, switches, and 12V supply to playfield."
That seems like a big range of potential issues. Any guidance on where I should specifically start or look for?[quoted image]
Easy I believe. Most had this issue on delivery. The 3 plugs right side lower board likely got pulled from there socket as they installed far to many zip ties on that bundle. My guess is your pins will be bent now but no worries. Good luck.
Quoted from Galooch:Thanks Yelobird...sorry to be a noob but could you provide a few more specifics on which three plugs? I scoured the entire trough area and all around but could seem to locate which ones you might be referring to.
It’s the board right side in the back box behind the monitor. No issues below the Playfield. Several including myself posted pics in the POTC owners thread. Consider looking at the picture gallery in that thread. You got this!
Quoted from wesman:Good eye!
I wonder where it's firing to.
I do believe thats an enter only hole..... no firing out.
Quoted from LTG:Don't do it Lloyd. Don't post something funny in reference to that one liner.
LTG : )
Come on, I even baited the hook for you! lol
Quoted from gumnut01:Ok. After doing more tests, it always hits the bracket and playfield during testing with no ball resting there.
As others have said in the past, it’s almost as if during multiball the auto launcher is triggering before the ball is resting correctly against the tines. It’s not as though multiball is frantic and fast in launching balls. This game is the slowest at launching balls out of my other machines (to the point that ball save times can be next to useless).
I know others have reported this issue. Any ideas?
EDIT: the manual plunger is a couple of mm back from the ball so not touching it. I wonder if the switch needs to be adjusted down?
Adjust switch or switch arm down to trigger a bit later.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Thank you!
I must have been the only one that didn’t know what a window packer is? lol
Quoted from gumnut01:Packers are awesome. They won’t compress. They come in different thicknesses from 1mm up to 10mm (and greater). They snap into smaller pieces. They won’t biodegrade and you can drill them. They’re inert, won’t react with other surfaces or conduct. The perfect shim. I love them.
Ahhh. It’s a shim. lol just wasn’t sure as I personally have never seen these in the states and I have installed countless doors and windows. May have to take a look. Learn something every day. Thanks.
Quoted from JamCat:Board in the back box has all red lights on by several of the fuses. Maybe one in the circuit is blown. I’ll have to do some research.[quoted image]
Strongly suggest starting with the Simple stuff first even if you think all is good. As it seems like something is cutting system power focus on that. Start with the power plug at wall and to the back of the game. A loose connection there can cause interrupts. Then reseat each power connection cable in the game and all computer plugs. If a fuse was blown it wouldn't shut down the entire game and it certainly wouldn't reboot it. Keep it simple as they say from the start and record what you did so you know where to go. Good luck.
Quoted from LesManley:Hi guys, I'm putting my JJP Pirates back together after installing the MAP Cliffy and other things and I want to make sure I have the MAP scoop deflector at the correct angle on re-install. I believe the scoop deflector is at a slight angle with the left side closest to the MAP targets slightly lower on the playfield and the right side of the deflector closest to the inner orbit slightly farther back. Is that correct? I know it can make a big difference in the ability to hit that scoop so I want to make sure I get it right. Thanks for the help!
That’s how min is. Fairly certain a few have posted pics in this thread or the group thread specifically focused on this and the modification to the T nut.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Does the BP always sway at the same speed or does the speed change depending on what’s going on in the game?
It changes per mode
Quoted from JamCat:Not only that, but that post keeps coming unscrewed on mine and affecting kick outs. I don’t have a tool that can really get in there to screw it in tight enough either. It’s like the wire forms and pop bumpers were placed just for the purpose of making that post harder to tighten. Sockets aren’t deep enough and the handle of pliers hits the things around it. So frustrating.
Did you try a 3/16” open end wrench?
Quoted from MountZion:So I do have an LE model and I was wondering if somebody could tell me if it is normal that the topper light flickers during the gameplay. Seems to be flickering every time I hit one of the flipper buttons or during gameplay in general when things are happening. Just wondering if I need to look further in to that or if that is how it is supposed to be. Thank you!
Pretty sure that’s a feature setting.
Quoted from wesman:Spot on guys!
I put it back in place, but it popped out again promptly when the skirt was hit on the left side. Had a feeling it might...
Any ideas on the next approach?
[quoted image]
After reinstalling the skirt. Make sure the point is Exactly centered on the spoon. Its very possible the switch (connected to the spoon) may need to be adjusted. If the spoon is centered And the gap is correct I suspect you will be good to go.
Quoted from luckymoey:Yes. Based on my experience, and some friends, they will supply manuals and fix-it kits one per SN.
Ouch, I suspect if that was said there will be several disappointed as that same fix-it program to used buyers didn't apply to playfields....
Quoted from statsdoc:Thanks for the help. I was getting lost reading the schematics and went right past that board. I will read up on how to test the transistor and give it a go. I also just reread your comment and realized that soldering is required. That is not my forte'. I will see who I can find locally that does board soldering in Nashville.
I’m sure you have already but needed to ask before you jump to this type repair which Most likely is the issue. Have you checked the blade switch on the right flipper button to make sure it didn’t just get bent raising the Playfield and locked closed?
Quoted from LTG:If the flipper leaf blade switch was stuck closed. The flipper wouldn't go up when you turn the game on. It would go up when you start a game.
LTG : )
Wow missed that you are 100% right. Simple fix but that’s a board issue. Sorry.
Quoted from 3pinballs:Ball has been getting stuck here lately.....anyone else having the issue and fix?
[quoted image]
Right spinner support is likely bent up a bit from long term play. Bend down right side with finger and should be fine.
Quoted from 3pinballs:Is this Normal when flippers are up?
What does everyone have their power settings for flippers? My left one seems a little weaker than the right.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Right flipper just looks a tad low in that pic to me. Adjust and align.
Quoted from Galooch:Thanks but no luck. I checked and both are still present and accounted for. Do you have any on the left side behind the depths or perhaps it can from the plastics up the port royal shot (plastics under the dauntless)? I’m stumped.
It’s honestly not that important a part to be worried about. If in hundreds of games you get a ball stuck somewhere you’ll have your answer.
Quoted from PinMonk:Meh. It's pinball and you're what, 3 feet from the screen? I'm crazy about improving things, but not that crazy...
So your saying a 4K curve 3D OLED would be overkill? Lol
Quoted from LOTR_breath:Just out of curiosity I clicked on "Pinball Parts" on the Suzo-Happ site. Holy crap, like 41.45 for a Stern flipper kit to do ONE side! LOL. 7.21 for 8oz bottle of Novus, 2.99 for a single pinball. Ha! And I just thought Marco was expensive!
That’s because they are a bulk distributor to all the names you mentioned and the OEM’s. If you want to buy one single part be prepared to pay. If you want 1000 they are the place.
Quoted from 3pinballs:Help - Wife had great game last night....kept doing ball search and there were 2 balls inside the chest that wouldn't come out. Any idea what to do or look for?
I installed the balls that came from JJP and don't know if they're Chrome or Carbon as I read this on the 1st page of this Thread.
Balls keep getting magnetized and sticking in chest or ball trough:
DO NOT USE SHINY CHROME BALLS. Buy carbon steel balls only. Anything else magnetizes too easily.
Since your wife broke it tell her to fix it! JK. Start with a ball count to make sure all are accounted for and now accidentally caught under the moving ship.
Quoted from 3pinballs:You mean underneath the Black Pearl?
When i took the glass off and balls out of the Chest last night, the game played right away, so I"m guessing all balls were accounted for but I could be wrong...wouldn't be the 1st time
Yeah I was thinking under the Pearl. Empty the game and make sure you have all 6? balls in hand, test opts in chest, trough, etc. and test balls with a paper clip to see if there is Any magnetism in all balls. Don’t start bending anything till you check the simple stuff.
And 1.6 Million on ball 1?? Get her off that game now or you will forever see her face laughing at you on the screen forever at that pace! Lol
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:I've got a small bubble on the center of the spinner in the middle of the playfield, probably about the size of half of a dime. Doesn't seem to effect any shots, but with the glass off, I can definitely push on it and it depresses and pops back up. It's not even noticeable while playing, just when onlooking from the side angle (and just a little annoying as a proud owner!).
Should I pop it with a needle or exacto?
Edit: this is bigger than a half-dime. About the size of the center circle. See pic (not sure why it posts upside down from my phone).
[quoted image]
Sadly I think I can tell you what that is. Had a friends machine do this also. The center spinner disk is mounted with a threaded single screw. (see manual) Unfortunately, IF it unthreads from the continuous spin rotate then reverse there is No way to fix (correctly) without getting a new spinner decal from JJP. (available on website). What I did to Temporarily fix it was make a surgical slit in the shape of an "X" to peal back the center, tighten screw, then push decal back into position. You can get by with that for awhile but I would just order a replacement decal as they are cheap. And Put Loc-Tite on the screw this time!! Good luck.
Quoted from Betelgeuse:I am having an audio issue where there is an odd high pitch tone coming through the speakers. It's fine for the first 5-20 minutes after power on, and then the dreaded tone shows up. Quiet at first, but getting progressively louder, until it can be heard in the next room. It's the same at any volume setting, in attract mode or in gameplay. Only rebooting the game seems to make it go away for a bit. Disconnecting the audio jack in the backbox does too, but of course, no game sounds either doing that. There is a ground loop isolator installed, but bypassing it does nothing. I bought a higher grade isolator and that didn't fix the problem either. Any ideas?
Did you try unplugging the 3.5 jack at the front of the cabinet? As I recall some had issues that went away after unplugging that.
Quoted from Betelgeuse:Thanks Yelo. I read about that too, but I have an SE and it doesn't seem that any of the wiring for this exists on my machine.
Sorry didn’t realize which game you had. As it seems like it goes away for a time when you unplug the 3.5 jack in the backbox I would focus on that. Make sure that cable isn’t routed by anything high voltage or a magnet. Then try reseating the 3.5 jack a few times to see if it’s just a bad cable or socket. Hope you figure it out.
Quoted from heni1977:If I remember right you can loosen the screw that holds the mech on that side a little to level it up. Or tighten the rest to make it all level then lower the disc by the large nut and retighten.
Lowering or raising spinning map is done by loosening #8 and you can spin #2 then retighten #8
[quoted image]
Also note, IF the spinner itself is not perpendicular lever (a few noted this) you may need to slightly shim one of the 4 mech legs to level it off side to side. Then make flush. Thick paper shims works ok if needed.
Quoted from heartbrand:I apologize if this was addressed before but I did not see it in the OP list of common issues. My ball seems to get stuck, most often during multi-balls, when it's going up into the ship from behind (e.g., not via the ramp). The only way to get it out at that point is if I have another ball I can hit up there or by lifting the playfield and vigorously moving it. The game will never detect the ball and will never end the ball or send a new ball to the plunger so it's basically GG when this happens. Has anyone else had a similar issue or suggestions? In addition, the left flipper on the boat seems to be out of sync but that issue isn't really critical to me.
Thank You
You need to check the feed trough under the ship (under playfield) that loads the up kicker. (photo shown) The trough by design is letting the ball roll to the Back of the playfield to feed so the pitch of your playfield front to back is important. If you are pitched to steep the ball will not roll back into the VUK. Also check to make sure the tongue (end shape of the trough shown in photo) is bent down touching the mating metal tray so it rolls down hill.
Quoted from Captchaos:Need some Help! Seem to be having an issue with flippers on the black pearl. The flippers function fine. Issue is that when I hit either flipper button the game produces the same sound as if the ball is rolling through the spinner targets and awarding points. Other issue is more of a game play problem that when I cradle a ball to look for the next shot(if I am currently playing a chapter mode) the colored arrows aren't lit until I release the ball. Before I remove the pearl I wanted to get some insight. Thanks
Likely just a spinner switch is out of adjustment. Put in switch test and bump hand on Playfield to see which one needs adjustment when it lights. Could be the error on the flipper hold also.
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