Pirates of the Caribbean
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2018You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider KingPinGames.
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Quoted from Lancelin2k14:Good idea. I plugged my laptop in to the monitor and it's still doing it, so I guess it's either the monitor or the power source to the monitor.
how technical are you? if you pull the monitor from the mount and lay it facedown on a towel, then remove the cover where the video input comes in. check to make sure the internal cables are secure. i had one monitor where the internal idc connector was coming up just a bit and it was causing issues with the monitor too.
Quoted from Izzy24:I found these in the cabinet under the playfield. Anyone know what the knarled screw or others might go to?[quoted image]
the thumb screw goes in the coin door to hold the coin mech alignment bar (not really sure what it is called) in place. the other one looks like a standoff or spacer for under a board or switch.
Quoted from PinMonk:Ah yes, the old magnetized balls trick! This is definitely a possibility, although it usually causes ball trough problems, too.
You usually see this in hanes that have exposed magnet cores, not as common with under the playfield ones. I could be wrong but I cant recall any exposed cores.
Check your chest level from left to right (not your game). There should be a slight tilt to the left. Also check to see if your release door is coming up enough to clear the balls quickly.
Quoted from KornFreak28:I believe there is an exposed magnet core on the loop right below the BP[quoted image]
Yep, I stand corrected.
Quoted from benbethel:Really wish someone in Phoenix with great knowledge of this game would come over and check it out and let me know what's working/not working as it should.
Your first call really should have been to the distributor you bought it from. That is the job of the distributor, to help the customer out. Thankfully there is a community to help you (here on pinside).
Quoted from benbethel:* the screen was dropped and backglass paint is scratched - I opened the backbox and tried adjusting but it won't sit at the right level, argh... UPDATE - still not fixed, we adjusted the bolts for the screen, did our best, but it seems the monitor arm itself is possibly bent, and that paint is still off...
some of the people have made small blocks that the monitor sits on so it stays level. all of the Wonka games come with metal supports from the factory to correct this behavior.
Quoted from benbethel:* Does the ship in the back left corner do anything? Seems like it opens or shakes or something, but no movement?
Yes, it rocks back and forth. Have you removed all of the shipping foam from the game? the one that is mounted in the back of the cabinet as well? with the playfield moved out a bit, go into the test menu and then activate the ship. it is possible that you have a wire off, or the ship is binding somehow.
Quoted from KornFreak28:I put it in test mode banged on the playfield, no luck. Activated pretty much all the switches and coils, all good. Head scratcher for sure....
While in the switch test, use the palm of your hand to tap on the playfield in different spots. My guess is you have a blade switch (inside the chapter select are) that is too close and the vibration from the flipper is causing the issue. Also check the ones closer to the flippers (pop bumpers).
Guess I type slow while watching tv. I'm going to leave my post for anyone else trying to diagnose a similar issue.
Nice job figuring it out.
Quoted from joseph5185:I appreciate the effort guys. I really would like to get this figured out so I'll do everything I can to figure out the inconsistency. Like maybe take a picture of the ball prior to every plunge and did figure out if it's good or not. If it is, was the ball in a different spot?
My girlfriend put the idea in my head that *possibly* the ball travels slightly different on each plunge. If it hits the damaged area then bad plunge. Otherwise, good plunge.
I'm not sure how much effort I want to spend on it if the rail is more responsible than I realize because I'm still pending a replacement.
Again, the auto plunges always seem weaker, but I'll pay attention to this when I start multi balls or something.
Am I correct in thinking/assuming the autoplunger will not quite be as powerful as a manual plunge, by design? Or should they be pretty equal?
Thanks again.
When you manually plunge do you see the forks of the auto plunge move? This is common with some games. In order to correct this you need to loosen the shooter rod housing (manual plunger) and move it down so the washer on the shooter rod doesnt hit the auto plunger. I had to do this to a few customer's games.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:I am moving my BP motor woes from the owner's thread over to over here.
Basically, for those who have not seen my issue, my BP does not move either during a game or in test modes. I've made sure everything mechanically speaking is fine and the pearl does move when i manually spin the motor disc that the rod is connected to. All fuses good and everything else on J109 I/O is working.
So, I think the issue is either no 12V power is getting to the board, or no 5V power is leaving the board to the motor.
I tested the power into and out of the board (if I did this right...see photos)
If I am correct in my assessment, it looks like I have my 12V going TO the board (testing pin 5-yellow) shows 12-13V (I have my black multimeter lead touching a ground in the cab) but when I test pin 1 (which on my pin is a yellow wire but the yellow connects to a red in the molex connnector downstream) I'm not showing a correct 5V like I think I should.
Please look at my photos and confirm my assessment of the situation or tell me how I'm awry and wrong.
If, indeed, I have my 12V coming in but no power coming out I'm guessing my motor relay board is bad and replacing it is necessary.
Thanks for looking and for helping![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
your second picture isn't measuring anything as pins 1 and 2 on the relay board are the output to the motor. you would need to have the board plugged in, then test the voltage at the motor itself to see if the relay itself is working.
You are on the right track though.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Okay. I did previously disconnect the 2 pin molex inbetween the board and the motor and did not get voltage if I recall correctly. I'll try that again tonight and make sure. Thanks for your correction.
Just to confirm, however, you do agree that I am getting power TO the board, yes?
yes, it appears that you are getting the 12v (although it is a little high), but yes.
when you are testing the voltage going to the motor make sure you use the wires coming from pins 1 and 2 (do not use the cabinet ground). also, make sure you are in the device test for the motor and it is running.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Here is me hooked up to the 2 pin power connector coming from the board after I plugged the board back up. Tried both in coil test mode and in ship test. Looks like no power (multimeter reading same as with leads in air essentially).
So, am I correct in thinking I need a new motor relay board?[quoted image]
Yes, the next step I would take is to contact the distributor your purchased the game from and have them order a new board or contact jjp yourself and order a replacement board.
Quoted from megalo17:Does anyone else have an issue with the inserts not being lighted up after startup? Usually I can restart and they will be fine. Sometimes I’ll raise the pf and ensure all blue Ethernet (or whatever kind) cables attaching the led boards are snug. The length of one of the cables is about an inch shorter than it should be. Getting annoying, and I’m sure the extra unnecessary power cycles aren’t good for longevity. Apologies if this issue has been previously addressed.
Check the micro usb cable that goes from the computer to the bag board (if the playfield is up in the air, the board will be towards the bottom of the playfield). this is the connection that controls the lighting. from there it will split to the various boards via the ethernet cable.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Dang. Motor relay board out of stock. I put up a wanted ad. I’m willing to pay $40 shipped if someone has an extra.
Usually just $18 at JJP. The board is used on other JJP pins and will be in stock at some point. I just don’t want to wait for who knows how long.
Did you ask if you could send your board in for repair?
Quoted from heartbrand:I apologize if this was addressed before but I did not see it in the OP list of common issues. My ball seems to get stuck, most often during multi-balls, when it's going up into the ship from behind (e.g., not via the ramp). The only way to get it out at that point is if I have another ball I can hit up there or by lifting the playfield and vigorously moving it. The game will never detect the ball and will never end the ball or send a new ball to the plunger so it's basically GG when this happens. Has anyone else had a similar issue or suggestions? In addition, the left flipper on the boat seems to be out of sync but that issue isn't really critical to me.
Thank You
check to make sure you have the spacer installed on the ship. it sounds like you might have a gap between the ship and the ramp. as for the flipper, I believe it is tied to the "upper left flipper" switch. which means that you have a stacked flipper button switch. when you push it in a little it should activate the lower left flipper. when you push it a bit further it should also activate the upper left on by the chest and the one on the ship. you can adjust the switch gap to make the pressure needed to activate all 3 flippers less.
Quoted from Izzy24:Thanks so much! Is that in the manual?
Quoted from Pinballomatic:Yes - always a free download or view at our website.
it is also built into your game. Test Menu -> Full Test Menu -> Utilities -> Manual
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