(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,320 posts
  • 184 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 hours ago by LOTR_breath
  • Topic is favorited by 121 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 603 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_3922 (resized).jpg
IMG_3933 (resized).jpg
bp (resized).JPG
IMG_2692 (resized).jpeg
E8A7731E-BD3A-4853-92DD-4DD485FF0EC0 (resized).jpeg
6C6B827B-F3DB-48FF-A1B1-52959781888B (resized).jpeg
E2D82214-DA31-4599-AF17-4A60EE299AA4 (resized).jpeg
B9DEF292-98C5-4AB2-91C6-CDD75BA9E0B2 (resized).jpeg
C167D4C0-98C4-4C44-BC79-CFEBD054CE4A (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
Screenshot 2020-11-07 112522 (resized).png
Screenshot 2020-11-07 112503 (resized).png
Screenshot 2020-11-07 112432 (resized).png
Screenshot 2020-11-07 112642 (resized).png
Screenshot 2020-11-07 112622 (resized).png
20201107_152624 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 3320 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 67.
#402 1 year ago

When you guys have a chance can you look when you get into multiball if your tortuga tom and spinning barrell spin constantly. Only played a couple games today ( 2.7 mil new high score) but noticed on both games. The logical side of my brain tells me it is not supposed to be like that but not sure

Edit: Not sure why I didnt think of this hours ago. Watched a jjp pinball stream and they do spin constantly during multiball

#403 1 year ago

As a PSA, you may want to check your map hole to make sure the ball entering the maphole will not collide with the T-nuts holding on the diverter. I noticed a few of my balls were all chewed and nicked up after only a few plays. I discovered that the left screw behind the diverter had a T-nut under the playfield which interfered with the ball entering the map hole. It is not a quick fix. I had to remove the ship to get to the screw, remove the screw, raise the playfield, and remove the stainless steel subway to get to the T-Nut. You can pull the T-Nut off by screwing in the screw from the bottom side and pulling. Based upon where the hole was, there was no orientation where the T-Nut wings did not in some way interfere with the ball as it entered the map hole. I had to grind one of the wings off of the T-Nut and orient it so that the ground off wing was facing the maphole, but no longer exposed to ball interference.

Not sure if this all machines, but my guess is that based upon the angle of the diverter there are other machines that will have the same issue.

#404 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

As a PSA, you may want to check your map hole to make sure the ball entering the maphole will not collide with the T-nuts holding on the diverter. I noticed a few of my balls were all chewed and nicked up after only a few plays. I discovered that the left screw behind the diverter had a T-nut under the playfield which interfered with the ball entering the map hole. It is not a quick fix. I had to remove the ship to get to the screw, remove the screw, raise the playfield, and remove the stainless steel subway to get to the T-Nut. You can pull the T-Nut off by screwing in the screw from the bottom side and pulling. Based upon where the hole was, there was no orientation where the T-Nut wings did not in some way interfere with the ball as it entered the map hole. I had to grind one of the wings off of the T-Nut and orient it so that the ground off wing was facing the maphole, but no longer exposed to ball interference.
Not sure if this all machines, but my guess is that based upon the angle of the diverter there are other machines that will have the same issue.

A friend in CA had this same issue and his fix was the same. I thought his was an anomaly but now that there's a second report I guess this should be added to the index. Good work fixing it!

#405 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

As a PSA, you may want to check your map hole to make sure the ball entering the maphole will not collide with the T-nuts holding on the diverter. I noticed a few of my balls were all chewed and nicked up after only a few plays. I discovered that the left screw behind the diverter had a T-nut under the playfield which interfered with the ball entering the map hole. It is not a quick fix. I had to remove the ship to get to the screw, remove the screw, raise the playfield, and remove the stainless steel subway to get to the T-Nut. You can pull the T-Nut off by screwing in the screw from the bottom side and pulling. Based upon where the hole was, there was no orientation where the T-Nut wings did not in some way interfere with the ball as it entered the map hole. I had to grind one of the wings off of the T-Nut and orient it so that the ground off wing was facing the maphole, but no longer exposed to ball interference.
Not sure if this all machines, but my guess is that based upon the angle of the diverter there are other machines that will have the same issue.

Man, that sounds exhausting....but phew, definitely glad you got it fixed up, and thank you for the detailed fix!

Could you feel the issue with your finger via the map hole?

#406 1 year ago
Quoted from Axl:

The balls get stuck here often.
[quoted image]
It looks like the ramp is bent out of shape.
[quoted image]
As I see it I have two options.
Either put a washer on the foxing on the post by the pirate lanes, or try to bend the wire forms back to shape. Very reluctant to do any bending.
Any other suggestions?

Interesting. My wireform travels over the top of the Tortuga deflector, so it's at least a 3/4" different than yours. Wonder how they bend these to shape at the factory?

#407 1 year ago
Quoted from Axl:

The balls get stuck here often.
[quoted image]
It looks like the ramp is bent out of shape.
[quoted image]
As I see it I have two options.
Either put a washer on the foxing on the post by the pirate lanes, or try to bend the wire forms back to shape. Very reluctant to do any bending.
Any other suggestions?

The wireform can slide in/out of the Black Pearl plastic ramp - have you tried making an adjustment there to see if it changes the angle?

#408 1 year ago

I thought I had seen this mentioned on one of the JJP forums, but now can't find it. Does anyone else have an issue with their lockbar gold button getting stuck? Makes getting gold in the game almost impossible as it seems to happen about 30% of the time for me.

Definitely the switch is the culprit. As you can see in this video (https://www.dropbox.com/s/xohn5il2rdjvpk2/JJP-PiratesLockbarButtonSwitch%20-%201.m4v?dl=0) the switch has side-to-side slop which causes it to bind up on the button's activator tip (i.e. the Philips head screw). Do you think JJP will replace the switch for free? Or is it better to replace with a more robust one? The existing switch seems way too flimsy for the duty cycles it's going to get from the lockbar button.

Screen Shot 2019-04-26 at 10.37.37 AM (resized).png
#409 1 year ago
Quoted from doghouse:

Or is it better to

Stick a small blob of hot glue on the bottom of the push button so it's a little larger and won't get stuck on anything.

LTG : )
Disclaimer : That style of switch has side to side play.

#410 1 year ago
Quoted from doghouse:

I thought I had seen this mentioned on one of the JJP forums, but now can't find it. Does anyone else have an issue with their lockbar gold button getting stuck? Makes getting gold in the game almost impossible as it seems to happen about 30% of the time for me.
Definitely the switch is the culprit. As you can see in this video (https://www.dropbox.com/s/xohn5il2rdjvpk2/JJP-PiratesLockbarButtonSwitch%20-%201.m4v?dl=0) the switch has side-to-side slop which causes it to bind up on the button's activator tip (i.e. the Philips head screw). Do you think JJP will replace the switch for free? Or is it better to replace with a more robust one? The existing switch seems way too flimsy for the duty cycles it's going to get from the lockbar button.
[quoted image]

JJP sent me a new switch and button (no charge). For me it was the button binding in the enclosure. The new button solved the problem. Others have replaced with a Stern button.

#411 1 year ago

These winged nuts, can they be easily replaced with a plastic lock nut?

#412 1 year ago
Quoted from heni1977:

These winged nuts, can they be easily replaced with a plastic lock nut?

No, because it both sides of it are buried, the screw and the t-nut. the Tnut is basically a flat captive nut.

#413 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Man, that sounds exhausting....but phew, definitely glad you got it fixed up, and thank you for the detailed fix!
Could you feel the issue with your finger via the map hole?

You could see it protruding into the map hole.

#414 1 year ago
Quoted from doghouse:

I thought I had seen this mentioned on one of the JJP forums, but now can't find it. Does anyone else have an issue with their lockbar gold button getting stuck? Makes getting gold in the game almost impossible as it seems to happen about 30% of the time for me.
Definitely the switch is the culprit. As you can see in this video (https://www.dropbox.com/s/xohn5il2rdjvpk2/JJP-PiratesLockbarButtonSwitch%20-%201.m4v?dl=0) the switch has side-to-side slop which causes it to bind up on the button's activator tip (i.e. the Philips head screw). Do you think JJP will replace the switch for free? Or is it better to replace with a more robust one? The existing switch seems way too flimsy for the duty cycles it's going to get from the lockbar button.
[quoted image]

I had the exact same issue. Here's a link to my post about it. I like the glue idea from LTG though. Seems like that would eliminate the side to side play causing the narrow switch metal to catch on the screw head.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/133#post-4919171

#415 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Stick a small blob of hot glue on the bottom of the push button so it's a little larger and won't get stuck on anything.
LTG : )
Disclaimer : That style of switch has side to side play.

How do you remove the button from the lockdown bar? I couldn't discover a way to remove it from that black screw in bracket.

Even loosening the screw, for more contact from the button, rather than raise the sensor contact, took some jiggling to discover. It was screwed in so damn tight.

#416 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

How do you remove the button from the lockdown bar? I couldn't discover a way to remove it from that black screw in bracket.
Even loosening the screw, for more contact from the button, rather than raise the sensor contact, took some jiggling to discover. It was screwed in so damn tight.

There is a black plastic nut of sorts under the lockbar. Rotate it counter clockwise while grasping the button body from the other side.

#417 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

There is a black plastic nut of sorts under the lockbar. Rotate it counter clockwise while grasping the button body from the other side.

Or just replace the button.

Might be easier.

#418 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Or just replace the button.
Might be easier.

To replace it he needs to remove it, which is what he needed help with.

#419 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

Tnut is basically a flat captive nut.

Sorry brain fart, I knew that, lol! Will look at mine this evening to check it out.
Once again Thanks to all who keep posting fixes as this will come in handy for others!

#420 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

To replace it he needs to remove it, which is what he needed help with.

True...

It’s early lol

#421 1 year ago

Can someone link to the replacement Stern button?

Edit - this one work? https://www.pinballlife.com/cabinet-flipper-button-transparent-1-18-shaft.html

Or is it 1-3/8?

Double Edit - Looks like this is the recommended one: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-7791-00

#422 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Stick a small blob of hot glue on the bottom of the push button so it's a little larger and won't get stuck on anything.
LTG : )
Disclaimer : That style of switch has side to side play.

This has been a problem since Hobbit. I don't know why they don't use a non-contact opto interruptor style there. Seems like it would be way more reliable.

#423 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

You could see it protruding into the map hole.

Thank you for the info. I'll definitely check next time I'm under the hood, and if there's an issue, I'll post to add it to the number of occurrences.

Quoted from zaphX:

There is a black plastic nut of sorts under the lockbar. Rotate it counter clockwise while grasping the button body from the other side.

Aaaah! Yeah, that makes sense. I figured it was a pretty simple mechanism, couldn't find anything in the manual or searching either.

When you changed yours out, was the screw really, really locked in also? I finally discovered pressing the action button forward, while unscrewing, allowed better grip. Otherwise nothing was budging, and trying to use a wrench with a towel/paper around it, wasn't gripping either.

#424 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Thank you for the info. I'll definitely check next time I'm under the hood, and if there's an issue, I'll post to add it to the number of occurrences.

Aaaah! Yeah, that makes sense. I figured it was a pretty simple mechanism, couldn't find anything in the manual or searching either.
When you changed yours out, was the screw really, really locked in also? I finally discovered pressing the action button forward, while unscrewing, allowed better grip. Otherwise nothing was budging, and trying to use a wrench with a towel/paper around it, wasn't gripping either.

When I removed the screw, yes it was in there firmly but came out easily enough. I am not sure how to further simplify this task.

#425 1 year ago

Don't you mean "Aarrrr!"?

#426 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

When I removed the screw, yes it was in there firmly but came out easily enough. I am not sure how to further simplify this task.

Maybe mine was locked in even more. I've never had such a trying time with something so simple, frankly. I know the hex key screw behind the ship was locked in really, really tightly, but ideally t-handle hex keys help with that situation.

Quoted from vireland:

Don't you mean "Aarrrr!"?

Haha, I do indeed! If I ever actually get to Aaaaar Mode, I'll say it even more frequently than I have been lately.

#427 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Stick a small blob of hot glue on the bottom of the push button so it's a little larger and won't get stuck on anything.
LTG : )
Disclaimer : That style of switch has side to side play.

Hi LTG -- Sounds like a great idea, if I understand correctly. Put the blob of hot glue on the Philips head screw which comes in contact with the switch? I will try this when I get home tonight. Although I might use this stuff instead: https://sugru.com.

David

#428 1 year ago

Instead of replacing the gold button just put a couple drops of this in there. it is a lubricant but dries to a wax. 2 drops 3 weeks ago and my button has not stuck since.

https://www.123bearing.com/accessory-grease-WAX-LUBE-KRYTECH-2OZ-60ML.php?gclid=Cj0KCQjw2IrmBRCJARIsAJZDdxDs6t_QjJnZRru9rwLH2xNXaIplq7ZtF9fpqs8Wez_GaBSMUFpB5yAaAr_DEALw_wcB

1 bottle has lasted me 5 plus years and I use it to fix anything that squeaks around the house.

#429 1 year ago
Quoted from doghouse:

Sounds like a great idea, if I understand correctly. Put the blob of hot glue on the Philips head screw which comes in contact with the switch?

Yes. In commercial use mine was sticking on the switch blade, and after a bit of hot glue smoothed over with my finger, worked fine ever since.

LTG : )

#430 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes. In commercial use mine was sticking on the switch blade, and after a bit of hot glue smoothed over with my finger, worked fine ever since.
LTG : )

Why can’t JJP fix these issues though? Why does a customer have to hot glue parts to get a game playing like it should?

#431 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Why can’t JJP fix these issues though?

When you consider all the Hobbits and Pirates out there, not that many have needed attention.

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Why does a customer have to hot glue parts to get a game playing like it should?

You don't have to. I'm an op. Get them going. Make them pretty later.

LTG : )

#432 1 year ago

My POTC has had hardly any issue. November 2018 build. I don’t think these issues are as wide spread as people make them out to be. Look the the MBr decal-gate as an example.

#433 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

My POTC has had hardly any issue. November 2018 build. I don’t think these issues are as wide spread as people make them out to be. Look the the MBr decal-gate as an example.

There are so many variables in that also. How many issues inherently come from shipping? How many aren't noticed immediately or ever? How many people that own these games aren't on Pinside?

Reminds me, I still need to fix my monitor sag. Now was that an issue with a faulty armature/bracket or shipping? Either way, the silver lining, not the good kind, of the bezel os noticeable.

#434 1 year ago

Do you have plastic protectors installed?

If so, where did you get them? Link?

Are they really necessary?

Thanks!

#435 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Do you have plastic protectors installed?
If so, where did you get them? Link?
Are they really necessary?
Thanks!

None installed, none needed.

#436 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

None installed, none needed.

That’s good to hear.

It’s one less thing I don’t need to obsess over.

#437 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Do you have plastic protectors installed?
If so, where did you get them? Link?
Are they really necessary?
Thanks!

Quoted from Yelobird:

None installed, none needed.

I tried the Mezel Mod ones, and they're waaaaay too thick to be functional. From what I know, they're the only ones out there. You could also put washers on the corners, which Stern seems to be doing on their new games lately.

As to if they're needed, that's subjective, and if they make you feel more secure/less concerned while playing your CE, good on ya. If not, no worries. They might sure up the plastics if they get hit, well when they get hit, and they're usually....usually an easy install. I'd just as soon buy another set of plastics from JJP, $100 shipped for a full set, versus $40 plus shipping for plastic protectors. It's akin to getting a backup playfield, just a good bit cheaper, and much easier to swap. I'd like to grab both at some point.

And grab one of these while you're at it too!

KeYSnf6_d (resized).jpg
#438 1 year ago

Personally I go with the corner petg washers on the slings. Never really have issues with breakage otherwise.

#439 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Personally I go with the corner petg washers on the slings. Never really have issues with breakage otherwise.

Did you fix your BP issue?

#440 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Did you fix your BP issue?

The right spinner? Waiting on JJP to send parts.

The motion? Haven't looked at it yet.

#441 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

The right spinner? Waiting on JJP to send parts.
The motion? Haven't looked at it yet.

Yeah the right spinner. Let us know, Thanks!

#442 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Yeah the right spinner. Let us know, Thanks!

For sure... But going out of town on Tues so likely next week.

#443 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Personally I go with the corner petg washers on the slings. Never really have issues with breakage otherwise.

I have the PETG washers. 3/4” right? I thought they are “too thick” or cause to much pressure or raises the height of the slings which affects the angles or some other nonsense.

wesman

Now THAT’s a good idea. Just order a spare set of plastics so one doesn’t worry.

And let’s not understate the tiny Mylar rings on the underside of the sling plastic to prevent the screw from puncturing through the bottom and tearing the plastics. Oh my... Though we do have replacements in the goody bag for this. Now I’m starting to understand why.

#444 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I have the PETG washers. 3/4” right? I thought they are “too thick” or cause to much pressure or raises the height of the slings

I'm talking about putting the PETG washers under the plastic, above the posts. This strengthens the corners of the plastics and keep them from breaking. You can do this on almost any plastic that has the room. If there are parts of any game that get airballs and hit plastics this is a good way to keep them from breaking. You can use regular washers too.

#445 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'm talking about putting the PETG washers under the plastic, above the posts. This strengthens the corners of the plastics and keep them from breaking. You can do this on almost any plastic that has the room. If there are parts of any game that get airballs and hit plastics this is a good way to keep them from breaking. You can use regular washers too.

I thought it went under the posts so touching the playfield?

Picture?

#446 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I thought it went under the posts so touching the playfield?
Picture?

Two different scenarios. My comment above, about protecting the plastics, is a common thing on many games. Just to protect the plastic itself, nothing to do with the playfield. Washer goes under the plastic directly, not the posts, not touching the playfield. So, from the top would be nut, plastic, washer, post, playfield.

The specific issue with this game (and probably a few others with playfield softness) is that the narrow posts are digging in to the playfield and causing dimples, indents and in some cases cracks and chipping of the playfield (I have this). The suggestion was to replace the narrow posts with the more common, wider posts (spread out the load a bit more, cover the dimple, cover any cracks/chips) and to put something between the bottom of the post and the playfield to cushion the playfield from the star post. So in this case it would go nut, plastic, PETG (optional), post (larger star post), mylar (or PETG or metal washer), playfield.

Photo_-_Google_Photos (resized).jpg
#447 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Two different scenarios. My comment above, about protecting the plastics, is a common thing on many games. Just to protect the plastic itself, nothing to do with the playfield. Washer goes under the plastic directly, not the posts, not touching the playfield. So, from the top would be nut, plastic, washer, post, playfield.
The specific issue with this game (and probably a few others with playfield softness) is that the narrow posts are digging in to the playfield and causing dimples, indents and in some cases cracks and chipping of the playfield (I have this). The suggestion was to replace the narrow posts with the more common, wider posts (spread out the load a bit more, cover the dimple, cover any cracks/chips) and to put something between the bottom of the post and the playfield to cushion the playfield from the star post. So in this case it would go nut, plastic, PETG (optional), post (larger star post), mylar (or PETG or metal washer), playfield. [quoted image]

Ooh, nice graphic!

But also remember do NOT use star posts unless you need them/have had damage already. Otherwise you'll have them sink into the playfield.

#448 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Ooh, nice graphic!
But also remember do NOT use star posts unless you need them/have had damage already. Otherwise you'll have them sink into the playfield.

Anything and everything fastened to a clearcoated wood playfield will leave an indentation. Kind of like a steel ball will leave dimples everywhere. Unavailable no matter what you try. It’s pinball

#449 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Ooh, nice graphic!
But also remember do NOT use star posts unless you need them/have had damage already. Otherwise you'll have them sink into the playfield.

Very, very nice.

This is the level of detail us n00bs really need and appreciate.

My game came with metal washers underneath the post (and I believe AFMr does as well).

The thought process for me was to replace the regular/slim posts with a colored transparent wider/star post (in this case green because I have a CE). That was until, wesman chimed in and said he indeed did replace with starposts and it left some very undesirable wear/damage to the playfield that wasn’t there before making this modification.

As the metal washers aren’t “desirable” aesthetically, I picked up some PETG washers and was going to replace the metal washers with them. That’s when the whole they are “too thick” and it’s going to screw everything up conversation took place.

Also, I had no idea about using PETG washers to protect the plastics themselves so I’m quite happy I did this purchase. Obviously, this would replace the need to put the Mylar here.

Thanks again for taking the time to write that up and provide that explanation. This is all knowledge I can take with me to AFMr and any additional games that I very most likely will pick up down the line.

#450 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Anything and everything fastened to a clearcoated wood playfield will leave an indentation. Kind of like a steel ball will leave dimples everywhere. Unavailable no matter what you try. It’s pinball

The problem seems to be on this game is the dimples are leading to cracks and chips. Star post could prevent that... But maybe just preventative mylar could do it before it starts.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 28.75
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
$ 28.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ModFather Pinball Mods
$ 87.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 45.50
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
There are 3320 posts in this topic. You are on page 9 of 67.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside