(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

1 year ago



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There are 3318 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 67.
#351 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Here is what a routed game looks like with the original sling posts (first 3 shots). It looks like someone already got the washer idea (doubt this is factory as the others don't have it) in pic 4. Also, looks like JJP designed their lane divider on the right side with a similar "washer" along the bottom design. I'm sure that's just part of the part characteristics (needs something to keep it up on the playfield for the nuts to pull against) but interesting.
Waiting on star posts, probably will do the clear lexan washers for now unless I can find something better.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is this your game?

#352 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Green or blue would look good, I think. I ALMOST did blue, and may still.

I went ahead and did green and I think blue would look sweet.

Sighs. I think I forgot the rubber rings or whatever that go around them? Do I need those?

#353 1 year ago

Speaking of color changes. After 1000 plays my flipper rubbers were toast. Did yellows on main flippers (always yelling at me about gold) and did blue for the inner loop flipper. Looks pretty good imo

#354 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I went ahead and did green and I think blue would look sweet.
Sighs. I think I forgot the rubber rings or whatever that go around them? Do I need those?

yes it is a good idea to get backup rubbers for high use areas. So slingshots and places where ball bounces a lot. Would be nothing worse than to pop a slingshot rubber and not have a backup ready. I did a full set of silicone rubber from pinballlife and it was only $20. Have not installed any rings yet (only 1 or 2 are showing wear atm) but the silicone flipper rubbers from them feel good to me. Still going to order a set of titan flipper rubbers in the near future to compare.

#356 1 year ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Speaking of color changes. After 1000 plays my flipper rubbers were toast. Did yellows on main flippers (always yelling at me about gold) and did blue for the inner loop flipper. Looks pretty good imo

Yeah, whatever rubber put on the flippers from the factory was trash. I hated the way the looked and felt. They came off in the first couple days. Yuck.

#357 1 year ago

If that chip grows or threatens to, use some clear nail polish to arrest it.

#358 1 year ago

How many games were on it?

Has everything else been pretty optimal/dialed in? I know I've been reading your posts, but man after awhile everyone's issues start to blend. Though...we all have common ones, that's for sure.

#359 1 year ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

yes it is a good idea to get backup rubbers for high use areas. So slingshots and places where ball bounces a lot. Would be nothing worse than to pop a slingshot rubber and not have a backup ready. I did a full set of silicone rubber from pinballlife and it was only $20. Have not installed any rings yet (only 1 or 2 are showing wear atm) but the silicone flipper rubbers from them feel good to me. Still going to order a set of titan flipper rubbers in the near future to compare.

When you say “pop” ... you mean like break completely or?

I’ve had the sling rubber come off or rather the plastic thingy got exposed somehow..

But I’m guessing that’s different?

Also, what are the size rubbers for the “other” slings if that makes any sense?

#360 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

When you say “pop” ... you mean like break completely or?
I’ve had the sling rubber come off or rather the plastic thingy got exposed somehow..
But I’m guessing that’s different?
Also, what are the size rubbers for the “other” slings if that makes any sense?

Page 222-223 of the manual has all the rubber locations and sizes.

rubber rings (resized).jpg
#361 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

How many games were on it?
Has everything else been pretty optimal/dialed in? I know I've been reading your posts, but man after awhile everyone's issues start to blend. Though...we all have common ones, that's for sure.

Not sure on games, it got reset with software updates. Everything works great and is dialed in. Spinning pirate doesn't work. Rubbers are getting replaced. That's about it.

#362 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Would be really interesting if you, too, have a loose roll pin that’s apart of the flipper assembly.
I had the EXACT same issue. I have received replacements from JJP, but haven’t yet committed the time to fix and test.

How did the roll pin cause the flipper to malfunction? Is it slipping out of the plunger and snagging on something? For me is seems like the flipper is just losing power.

#363 1 year ago

Do “most” people install these sling Mylar?

I would think it would impact the action and this is my favorite action on a pin.

I would prefer to keep it waxed and not have to worry about this.

#364 1 year ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Speaking of color changes. After 1000 plays my flipper rubbers were toast. Did yellows on main flippers (always yelling at me about gold) and did blue for the inner loop flipper. Looks pretty good imo

That's about how long my stock flipper rubbers lasted as well. I went Titan after that and haven't had to change them again after another 1900 plays.

#365 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

How did the roll pin cause the flipper to malfunction? Is it slipping out of the plunger and snagging on something? For me is seems like the flipper is just losing power.

When I went to adjust the pawl nut for the flipper assembly underneath the BP, half the assembly came undone and my case the left flipper was completely dead.

Still working on this fix.

#366 1 year ago

My Black Pearl seemed to be acting weird last night. During game play it would only tilt to the left and then back to home. No tilt to the right. I check it in the test and it moves to the right in test mode. I also recalibrated it, but it didn't change the game play. Any ideas?

Thanks

Gerry

#367 1 year ago
Quoted from fossmin:

My Black Pearl seemed to be acting weird last night. During game play it would only tilt to the left and then back to home. No tilt to the right. I check it in the test and it moves to the right in test mode. I also recalibrated it, but it didn't change the game play. Any ideas?
Thanks
Gerry

In test mode is the opto for the right triggering from a wire or something? You can see it flicker before it's right if it is. That flicker will fool the game into thinking it's all the way right and start it back to the left before it's really right.

#368 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Page 222-223 of the manual has all the rubber locations and sizes.[quoted image]

That's a whole lotta rubber!

Man...this feels never-ending...

#369 1 year ago

When I go into the switch test the matrix shows the Black Pearl Motor Inner Opto 70 is closed.

Thanks

Gerry

#370 1 year ago

Welp, switch #48 decided to die to today. Luckily I had a few, easy swap and it's back to good. Seems pretty short lifespan for a switch.

In other news, trying to figure out what is wrong with the spinny pirate. I pulled the figure off but can't quite figure out how to get to the motor. The motor is held in to the bracket with 2 screws and the bracket into the pop bumper assembly with 2 screws but neither sets of screws are accessible. There are two holes in the mounting plate but they don't line up with either set of screws. I assume it's this motor that is bad but once I get access I'll test power to it. Also I noticed the motor mounting to the bracket was VERY loose. Might want to check these in your games, not sure they are supposed to be loose.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sDsTaKL4HeKVjQBX9

Photo_-_Google_Photos (resized).jpgPhoto_-_Google_Photos2 (resized).jpg
#371 1 year ago
Quoted from fossmin:

When I go into the switch test the matrix shows the Black Pearl Motor Inner Opto 70 is closed.
Thanks
Gerry

Here is where it is located. I'll go look at mine and see if I can see what that is. I think it's on the black pearl playfield, one of the optos for the loop behind the spinners.

POTC_Manual_2_0_November_2018_pdf__Security___Read-Only___page_200_of_359_ (resized).jpg

#372 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Welp, switch #48 decided to die to today. Luckily I had a few, easy swap and it's back to good. Seems pretty short lifespan for a switch.
In other news, trying to figure out what is wrong with the spinny pirate. I pulled the figure off but can't quite figure out how to get to the motor. The motor is held in to the bracket with 2 screws and the bracket into the pop bumper assembly with 2 screws but neither sets of screws are accessible. There are two holes in the mounting plate but they don't line up with either set of screws. I assume it's this motor that is bad but once I get access I'll test power to it. Also I noticed the motor mounting to the bracket was VERY loose. Might want to check these in your games, not sure they are supposed to be loose.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sDsTaKL4HeKVjQBX9
[quoted image][quoted image]

Pardon me for asking, but how exactly are you going to test the power?

#373 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Pardon me for asking, but how exactly are you going to test the power?

I assume I am going to put it in to test mode and hook up a DMM to the leads and see if any power is hitting it. I thought it was in the coil tests, but I don't recall, however I know it's there as I tested the other one. Not sure what power it should be getting, but I'm assuming as long as there is some sort of AC or DC voltage there then it is likely the motor. Looks like a small DC motor from hobbying stuff so probably can easily test it with a 9v battery.

#374 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Welp, switch #48 decided to die to today. Luckily I had a few, easy swap and it's back to good. Seems pretty short lifespan for a switch.
In other news, trying to figure out what is wrong with the spinny pirate. I pulled the figure off but can't quite figure out how to get to the motor. The motor is held in to the bracket with 2 screws and the bracket into the pop bumper assembly with 2 screws but neither sets of screws are accessible. There are two holes in the mounting plate but they don't line up with either set of screws. I assume it's this motor that is bad but once I get access I'll test power to it. Also I noticed the motor mounting to the bracket was VERY loose. Might want to check these in your games, not sure they are supposed to be loose.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sDsTaKL4HeKVjQBX9
[quoted image][quoted image]

It's in the post #1 index for the instructions on how to adjust the Tortuga/mystery hole.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues#post-4934930

#375 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I assume I am going to put it in to test mode and hook up a DMM to the leads and see if any power is hitting it. I thought it was in the coil tests, but I don't recall, however I know it's there as I tested the other one. Not sure what power it should be getting, but I'm assuming as long as there is some sort of AC or DC voltage there then it is likely the motor. Looks like a small DC motor from hobbying stuff so probably can easily test it with a 9v battery.

The coil to the motor is in the coil tests. You have to select it and hit START to goose it with momentary power, then watch your meter as you do. (Oh, and make sure the white post inside the open coin door is pulled so you have coil power) You might want to test some other coils first to make sure the test is working.

Going from the other connector to the motor, you can definitely put a 9V battery on it and see if the motor spins for a quick and dirty motor test.

#376 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

It's in the post #1 index for the instructions on how to adjust the Tortuga/mystery hole.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues#post-4934930

Ah geeze, nice! Thanks

#377 1 year ago
Quoted from fossmin:

When I go into the switch test the matrix shows the Black Pearl Motor Inner Opto 70 is closed.
Thanks
Gerry

AH I see now.. looks like it's the opto to track the black pearl motor movement. Seems like it is under the black pearl. Possibly this is ok if the ship is all the way to one side? Not sure how that works, someone will surely chime in.

#378 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

Save yourself some trouble and just remove the rear vuk rather than the BP ramp. Once removed, there is plenty of room to slide the ship back and up. Vuk is positively located with only three screws. Versus the ramp which is a pain to reset and adjust.

Turns out two of the three screws for the VUK as inaccessible (hidden under plastics), so that won't work, bummer.

#379 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Turns out two of the three screws for the VUK as inaccessible (hidden under plastics), so that won't work, bummer.

Hell yes it works! I did it last night. All you have to do is take the two screws off that hold the plastic on. That whole blue plastic is only attached by those two screws. They aren’t even through holes, so u can just loosen them and slide the plastic off.
C6F53729-60ED-44C9-A033-1A19A3179D1D (resized).png

#380 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

Hell yes it works! I did it last night. All you have to do is take the two screws off that hold the plastic on. That whole blue plastic is only attached by those two screws. They aren’t even through holes, so u can just loosen them and slide the plastic off.
[quoted image]

Arrrr! Good news!

#381 1 year ago

Figure out the pirate not spinning... picture speaks for itself. Wire was completely detached.

Also, the barrel was making noise and I took it off and noticed the set screw for that was loose (although it looked like someone tried to put some locktite on it, not sure if that didn't work or if it was just working it's way out over time). The motor mount was not loose on the barrel but was on the pirate. So, some more things to check if you are poking around the playfield.

Had to adjust the right switch on the starfield area (behind the rubber) as it was constantly closed. I think that might have been what was doing the 30 pt scoring when I hit the flipper, haven't checked that out yet.

0424191640 (resized).jpg
#382 1 year ago

BAH! Just noticed that the right spinner on the BP isn't registering and is always closed (is that green on the switch test?). I'll dig around that one to see if any wires are loose. Any existing tips on the optos for the spinners?

#383 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

BAH! Just noticed that the right spinner on the BP isn't registering and is always closed (is that green on the switch test?). I'll dig around that one to see if any wires are loose. Any existing tips on the optos for the spinners?

You're blazing a new trail on that one I'm afraid. Great troubleshooting on the broken wire with Tortuga Tom!

#384 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

You're blazing a new trail on that one I'm afraid. Great troubleshooting on the broken wire with Tortuga Tom!

Heh... I'm just about error free!

#385 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

Hell yes it works! I did it last night. All you have to do is take the two screws off that hold the plastic on. That whole blue plastic is only attached by those two screws. They aren’t even through holes, so u can just loosen them and slide the plastic off.
[quoted image]

Correct you are! I didn't realize that it was one plastic that surround the VUK on both sides. Also seemed like the plastic traveled down the entire right side wall but in reality it's two pieces with the metal overboard plate covering the split. With plastic removed, the only real trick was finding a 1/4" hex driver long enough to reach the screws. And as expected, my flipper had a broken solder joint on the solenoid - easy fix.

Thanks again for the VUK trick.

#386 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Heh... I'm just about error free!

Unless I read your posts wrong did you buy this second hand? Did the seller mention any of these issues as they are rather uncommon. Glad to see you are figuring it out. The spinner on the BP is a typical setup with an arm closing a switch contact. More then likely just out of adjustment. Sadly I suspect you will have to dry dock (pull) the BP to access the switch.

#387 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Correct you are! I didn't realize that it was one plastic that surround the VUK on both sides. Also seemed like the plastic traveled down the entire right side wall but in reality it's two pieces with the metal overboard plate covering the split. With plastic removed, the only real trick was finding a 1/4" hex driver long enough to reach the screws. And as expected, my flipper had a broken solder joint on the solenoid - easy fix.
Thanks again for the VUK trick.

Not to pile on but I wonder what process or line change happened at JJP that there were so many issues with solder on this game? I honestly can't remember seeing so many failed solder issues on Any title from any OEM before. I know they went a bit overboard on the zip ties but a good solder joint will usually stand a good pull.

#388 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Unless I read your posts wrong did you buy this second hand? Did the seller mention any of these issues as they are rather uncommon. Glad to see you are figuring it out. The spinner on the BP is a typical setup with an arm closing a switch contact. More then likely just out of adjustment. Sadly I suspect you will have to dry dock (pull) the BP to access the switch.

Yeah, it was on route for a bit. I knew the pirate didn't spin and I knew about the playfield wear. I checked out the switches when I went to look at it and none were red in the matrix, but I wasn't sure which ones should be open/closed. So, it's just the two switches so far and I think 48 just happened as it only reported recently.

I need to take out the BP anyhow to install the cliffys and replace the rubbers. I feel like my experience removing the WOZ castle playfield 30 or 40 times has put me in good shape to remove the BP.

#389 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Not to pile on but I wonder what process or line change happened at JJP that there were so many issues with solder on this game? I honestly can't remember seeing so many failed solder issues on Any title from any OEM before. I know they went a bit overboard on the zip ties but a good solder joint will usually stand a good pull.

That's a good question. This will be the second failed solder joint for me (both under the BP).

#390 1 year ago

The balls get stuck here often.

EE8C45E2-4B0B-4DB3-ADBE-4D68B59D212A (resized).jpeg

It looks like the ramp is bent out of shape.

B4592071-DD9D-4CF3-8883-DFE5228990B7 (resized).jpeg

As I see it I have two options.
Either put a washer on the foxing on the post by the pirate lanes, or try to bend the wire forms back to shape. Very reluctant to do any bending.

Any other suggestions?

#391 1 year ago
Quoted from Axl:

The balls get stuck here often.
[quoted image]
It looks like the ramp is bent out of shape.
[quoted image]
As I see it I have two options.
Either put a washer on the foxing on the post by the pirate lanes, or try to bend the wire forms back to shape. Very reluctant to do any bending.
Any other suggestions?

Personally I would just add a simple washer or 2 to the end of the wire form.

#392 1 year ago

Well, this is interesting. Firstly, switch 68 (BP right spinner opto) is broken. Literally just broken in half. The white wire from the back of it is also detached. What I also found interesting is that when I removed the ship "header" the two brackets that support the spinners weren't even screwed down all the way. They are just dangling there. I am going to order two optos... is there any warranty on these kinds of parts? I'll email Shannan and see, either way I need to order them. Can't really see the ball causing this, but I also can't figure out any other reason this would happen.

Bah, not just plain switches so I can't just pull from my stock of parts and I'm guessing this is going to be a few dollar part with shipping that exceeds its cost. Maybe they'll do a good will type replacement.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2SeQeBY3rVoXMLSQ9

#393 1 year ago
Quoted from Axl:

The balls get stuck here often.
[quoted image]
It looks like the ramp is bent out of shape.
[quoted image]
As I see it I have two options.
Either put a washer on the foxing on the post by the pirate lanes, or try to bend the wire forms back to shape. Very reluctant to do any bending.
Any other suggestions?

I'd go with the washer(s). Ball doesn't stick there on the one we have here, so it has to be the wireform (or a magnetized ball?).

#394 1 year ago

Is this how much your ship moves (max travel, left to right)?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6uuDS7tDPapSRf436

#395 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Is this how much your ship moves (max travel, left to right)?

That looks about right. Less in the beginning, more as you get deeper into the game.

LTG : )

#396 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

That looks about right. Less in the beginning, more as you get deeper into the game.
LTG : )

Thanks.. wasn't sure if it should be going right of center (looking at it).

#397 1 year ago

Run it in test mode and see how far it goes. Look at the slot on the left side of the ship through the backboard. You can adjust the movement within the travel limits of the slot. If the rod is not hitting the top of the slot, you can adjust it to tip further to the Right

#398 1 year ago
Quoted from rs812:

Run it in test mode and see how far it goes. Look at the slot on the left side of the ship through the backboard. You can adjust the movement within the travel limits of the slot. If the rod is not hitting the top of the slot, you can adjust it to tip further to the Right

Thanks, I'll check it out. With all my fiddling I hadn't looked at how that works and now the game is all together again and it needs some play time!

#399 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Thanks, I'll check it out. With all my fiddling I hadn't looked at how that works and now the game is all together again and it needs some play time!

Fortunately, the ship’s side to side travel can be adjusted with it fully assembled. #4 is slotted to allow the length of the 3-4 assembly to be adjusted by loosening the two #13 screws. Basically, you want to adjust it so that it can travel to the top of the slot (ship tilted right) without binding on the top of the slot. Mine barely went to the right until I adjusted it.

E6584687-109B-43C8-977F-506778197D62 (resized).png

#400 1 year ago

Everything about this pin and its adjustments is thoughtfully designed, if you can figure it out. Wish the adjustment procedures were set forth in the manual.

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