(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech

By PinMonk

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 10 days ago by LOTR_breath
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#3401 2 years ago

I just realized I posted this in the owners thread by mistake when I meant to post here…

So a recent problem just appeared and I need a little help knowing where to look. It seems my right flipper on the upper playfield will stop working after a few minutes of gameplay. When looking at the switch test and comparing it to when the Upper Playfield Left Flipper is engaged, it looks like The Upper Playfield Right Flipper EOS (D05) is not triggering. Since it works for a bit and then dies, I’m not sure what I should be looking for. No other issues with the machine and it has been pretty bulletproof for quite a while. Thanks in advance!

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#3402 2 years ago
Quoted from Galooch:

So a recent problem just appeared and I need a little help knowing where to look. It seems my right flipper on the upper playfield will stop working after a few minutes of gameplay. When looking at the switch test and comparing it to when the Upper Playfield Left Flipper is engaged, it looks like The Upper Playfield Right Flipper EOS (D05) is not triggering. Since it works for a bit and then dies, I’m not sure what I should be looking for. No other issues with the machine and it has been pretty bulletproof for quite a while. Thanks in advance!

The End of Stroke (EOS) switch is an important part of nearly every flipper assembly ever made. There should be a small leaf switch next to the linkage of the flipper assembly. When the flipper is engaged, the linkage should push into this switch and trigger it *only* at the very height of the flipper stroke. This tells the game that the flipper is now fully in the up position and changes the power to the coil. A misaligned switch can cause a weak or overheating flipper, or even smoke a transistor on some systems. Generally, there are 2 types of EOS switches; normally open and normally closed. I'm pretty sure the Black Pearl flippers use normally closed EOS switches, meaning that the flipper should be pushing the switch open just slightly when the flipper is fully UP. You may be able to use a small mirror to see and adjust the switch from underneath without removing the Pearl.

#3403 2 years ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

The End of Stroke (EOS) switch is an important part of nearly every flipper assembly ever made. There should be a small leaf switch next to the linkage of the flipper assembly. When the flipper is engaged, the linkage should push into this switch and trigger it *only* at the very height of the flipper stroke. This tells the game that the flipper is now fully in the up position and changes the power to the coil. A misaligned switch can cause a weak or overheating flipper, or even smoke a transistor on some systems. Generally, there are 2 types of EOS switches; normally open and normally closed. I'm pretty sure the Black Pearl flippers use normally closed EOS switches, meaning that the flipper should be pushing the switch open just slightly when the flipper is fully UP. You may be able to use a small mirror to see and adjust the switch from underneath without removing the Pearl.

Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I just thought it was particularly odd that it consistently works for a bit when turning on the machine and then stops. I'm hoping it's just a switch adjustment like you said and I'll report back.

#3404 2 years ago
Quoted from Galooch:

Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I just thought it was particularly odd that it consistently works for a bit when turning on the machine and then stops. I'm hoping it's just a switch adjustment like you said and I'll report back.

The Black Pearl is notorious for wires coming off the flipper coils and EOS. There is not enough slack in the wires and all that rocking back and forth doesn't help either. The best thing you can do is remove the Black Pearl and inspect underneath. Every owner needs to know how to get the Black Pearl out. After you've done it once or twice it becomes easy. If you've never had it out, you won't believe how dirty it is underneath.

1 month later
#3405 2 years ago

Greetings everyone,
So the strangest thing. I was hitting the inner loop and with each one I was getting credit for the malstrome pieces of 8. It would give me 1 for each loop. Anyone heard of that?

#3406 2 years ago
Quoted from Heater:

Greetings everyone,
So the strangest thing. I was hitting the inner loop and with each one I was getting credit for the malstrome pieces of 8. It would give me 1 for each loop. Anyone heard of that?

Maybe vibration, maybe bad diode? Put it in switch test mode with the playfield glass off and try smacking the playfield and see if the maelstrom registers.

If not, inner loop enter and Maelstrom ramp made are on the same switch matrix row, though. In switch test mode, does triggering the A and P in "MAP" or the ship hit target register the maelstrom, too?

#3407 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Maybe vibration, maybe bad diode? Put it in switch test mode with the playfield glass off and try smacking the playfield and see if the maelstrom registers.
If not, inner loop enter and Maelstrom ramp made are on the same switch matrix row, though. In switch test mode, does triggering the A and P in "MAP" or the ship hit target register the maelstrom, too?

Great question. Going to give that a try! Thanks much

#3408 2 years ago
Quoted from Heater:

Great question. Going to give that a try! Thanks much

You can also go into the menu to view the switch history to see which switches were triggered in order during your game. You might be able to check that to see if a switch was registering when it shouldn't.

Also, there's a menu setting for the difficulty of the Pieces of Eight shots for At World's End Multiball. It's listed in the manual on Page B-34. It says the default setting is 3 and the range for the setting is 1-6. I'm not sure what that setting adjustment does but maybe it gives credit for any of the shots made when it's put on an easier setting? Might be worth checking.

#3409 2 years ago

The switch history is one of the greatest things in the JJP test menu. It is super helpful in diagnosing switch issues and it would be awesome if other manufacturers would implement that.

1 week later
#3410 1 year ago

Hi all,

I have one issue and one question.

Issue- the auto plunge will not fire therefore will not auto launch a ball into play during multi ball or ball save (the ball is ejected into the shooter lane but no auto plunge). It will fire and launch a ball when the pin searches for a ball. Do you have any thoughts on why this happens and how to fix?

Question- If the chest has one or two balls locked and I start a different multiball or stacked multi balls, the chest releases one ball presumably to provide a ball for those other multi balls. Then after I complete those other multi balls, if I lock the third ball in the chest it starts dead man’s chest multi ball (with only two balls in the chest) then it auto launches a third ball to allow for dead man’s chest three ball multi ball. Does this sound correct?

I’m asking because I think I’m seeing a situation where dead man’s chest multi ball starts after only two locked balls. Has anyone run into this?

#3411 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeadHead:

Hi all,
I have one issue and one question.
Issue- the auto plunge will not fire therefore will not auto launch a ball into play during multi ball or ball save (the ball is ejected into the shooter lane but no auto plunge). It will fire and launch a ball when the pin searches for a ball. Do you have any thoughts on why this happens and how to fix?

Open coin door, remove glass. Take a ball out of the trough. Go into switch test mode (leave door open). Put the ball in the shooter lane. Does the shooter lane switch register on the screen? Try it a few times. It SOUNDS like your shooter lane switch wire is too low and the ball isn't causing it to register, OR a wire has broken off your shooter lane switch and it doesn't work at all.

#3412 1 year ago

Dead Mans Chest behavior is normal. If it uses a ball from the chest, you do not have to relock balls. For your other question, I would check the shooter lane switch. Put the game in switch test mode and actuate the switch with a ball, not your finger.

If the game doesn't see a ball at that switch, it's not going to fire the solenoid to launch a ball it does not see.

May need to bend the switch arm up slightly so it closes better.

#3413 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Open coin door, remove glass. Take a ball out of the trough. Go into switch test mode (leave door open). Put the ball in the shooter lane. Does the shooter lane switch register on the screen? Try it a few times. It SOUNDS like your shooter lane switch wire is too low and the ball isn't causing it to register, OR a wire has broken off your shooter lane switch and it doesn't work at all.

Thank you, I’ll give it a shot.

#3414 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Dead Mans Chest behavior is normal. If it uses a ball from the chest, you do not have to relock balls. For your other question, I would check the shooter lane switch. Put the game in switch test mode and actuate the switch with a ball, not your finger.
If the game doesn't see a ball at that switch, it's not going to fire the solenoid to launch a ball it does not see.
May need to bend the switch arm up slightly so it closes better.

Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Dead Mans Chest behavior is normal. If it uses a ball from the chest, you do not have to relock balls. For your other question, I would check the shooter lane switch. Put the game in switch test mode and actuate the switch with a ball, not your finger.
If the game doesn't see a ball at that switch, it's not going to fire the solenoid to launch a ball it does not see.
May need to bend the switch arm up slightly so it closes better.

Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Dead Mans Chest behavior is normal. If it uses a ball from the chest, you do not have to relock balls. For your other question, I would check the shooter lane switch. Put the game in switch test mode and actuate the switch with a ball, not your finger.
If the game doesn't see a ball at that switch, it's not going to fire the solenoid to launch a ball it does not see.
May need to bend the switch arm up slightly so it closes better.

Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Dead Mans Chest behavior is normal. If it uses a ball from the chest, you do not have to relock balls. For your other question, I would check the shooter lane switch. Put the game in switch test mode and actuate the switch with a ball, not your finger.
If the game doesn't see a ball at that switch, it's not going to fire the solenoid to launch a ball it does not see.
May need to bend the switch arm up slightly so it closes better.

Thank you.

#3415 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Dead Mans Chest behavior is normal. If it uses a ball from the chest, you do not have to relock balls. For your other question, I would check the shooter lane switch. Put the game in switch test mode and actuate the switch with a ball, not your finger.
If the game doesn't see a ball at that switch, it's not going to fire the solenoid to launch a ball it does not see.
May need to bend the switch arm up slightly so it closes better.

Thanks guys, problem solved. The ball wasn’t bending the wire down enough to register the switch, so I bent the wire up and now it registers and auto plunges!

#3416 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeadHead:

Thanks guys, problem solved. The ball wasn’t bending the wire down enough to register the switch, so I bent the wire up and now it registers and auto plunges!

I'm watching for your new high scores now that it's working right!

#3417 1 year ago

Hi everyone,
Trying to track down Switch 69 and 70 which are the Black pearl inner and outer motor optos. Not sure where on the upper playfield it is.l Thanks

#3418 1 year ago
Quoted from Heater:

Hi everyone,
Trying to track down Switch 69 and 70 which are the Black pearl inner and outer motor optos. Not sure where on the upper playfield it is.l Thanks

Manual Pages C-108 & C-109 show where the switches are located in relation to the playfield. Pages C-54 & C-55 show specifically where the optos are on the rocker assembly.

https://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/potc/POTC_Manual%202_0%20November%202018.pdf

#3419 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Manual Pages C-108 & C-109 show where the switches are located in relation to the playfield. Pages C-54 & C-55 show specifically where the optos are on the rocker assembly.
https://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/potc/POTC_Manual%202_0%20November%202018.pdf

Got it and much thanks!!!

#3420 1 year ago
Quoted from Heater:

Greetings everyone,
So the strangest thing. I was hitting the inner loop and with each one I was getting credit for the malstrome pieces of 8. It would give me 1 for each loop. Anyone heard of that?

Hi all,

I am running into a similar issue as Heater.

In my case, when ball #2 ejects into the shooter lane, the goblet is qualified automatically. Then, when I hit various pieces of 8 shots, sometimes I’ll get two for one (I shoot the wooden eye shot which qualifies both that and the glass bottle for example).

Before I pursue the recommendations of adjusting the maelstrom multi ball difficulty settings and then switch tests, I thought I’d ask the group if anyone has experienced/diagnosed/fixed this issue.

Thank you.

#3421 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeadHead:

Hi all,
I am running into a similar issue as Heater.
In my case, when ball #2 ejects into the shooter lane, the goblet is qualified automatically. Then, when I hit various pieces of 8 shots, sometimes I’ll get two for one (I shoot the wooden eye shot which qualifies both that and the glass bottle for example).
Before I pursue the recommendations of adjusting the maelstrom multi ball difficulty settings and then switch tests, I thought I’d ask the group if anyone has experienced/diagnosed/fixed this issue.
Thank you.

Not sure about the 2-for-1 resolution, but normal code spots you a pieces of 8 shot after you drain. So getting one at the start of ball 2 and 3 is normal behavior. I think it gives you the most difficult of the ones you have remaining at the time.

#3422 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Not sure about the 2-for-1 resolution, but normal code spots you a pieces of 8 shot after you drain. So getting one at the start of ball 2 and 3 is normal behavior. I think it gives you the most difficult of the ones you have remaining at the time.

That solves half my problem (which turns out to not be a problem) Thank you!

#3423 1 year ago

Check switch history right after you experience the problem. You should see one or more switches that you know you didn't shoot. Causes could be an opto that is out of alignment, a dirty opto, or a loose/flaky opto connector on a board.

#3424 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Check switch history right after you experience the problem. You should see one or more switches that you know you didn't shoot. Causes could be an opto that is out of alignment, a dirty opto, or a loose/flaky opto connector on a board.

Thank you.

1 week later
#3425 1 year ago

Hi everyone,
So my spotlights went out. By chance does anyone know if there is a main fuse for them and where it might be. I tried looking at the wiring diagrams and can't seem to find it.

Thanks on advance

#3426 1 year ago
Quoted from Heater:

Hi everyone,
So my spotlights went out. By chance does anyone know if there is a main fuse for them and where it might be. I tried looking at the wiring diagrams and can't seem to find it.
Thanks on advance

I don't think it's a fuse or you would have other things out as well. Check this connector number and also look for a wire that has come loose.

potc spotlights (resized).JPGpotc spotlights (resized).JPG
#3427 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I don't think it's a fuse or you would have other things out as well. Check this connector number and also look for a wire that has come loose.
[quoted image]

Yep that was it, didn't notice the pear wasn't rocking or the led strip on the lamp. All good now and thanks!

2 weeks later
#3428 1 year ago

Hello,

My right spinner on the black Pearl doesn’t register and is red/doesn’t register in matrix switch test. Has anyone run into this and is the fix to replace the switch? How difficult is this to do?

I didn’t see this in the thread but I did read about adjusting the VUK strength down which I will do as well.

Thx

#3429 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeadHead:

My right spinner on the black Pearl doesn’t register and is red/doesn’t register in matrix switch test. Has anyone run into this and is the fix to replace the switch?

First check if it's opto thing is broken from ball hits. If so replace it.

If not.

I'd turn the game off. Remove the black pearl, inspect bottom for broken wires.

To remove the black pearl, refer to manual. Remove clip on rear of playfield, then between black pearl and back wall of playfield, look down and unscrew the long allen head thing holding it in place.

Slide the black pearl back and up, lay on it's side to the right. Put shop towels down first. No need to remove connectors below the playfield unless you want to remove the whole black pearl from the playfield.

Reverse the proceedure to put the black pearl back in.

LTG : )
Disclaimer : Call jjp and tell them to get LTG : ) back.

#3430 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

First check if it's opto thing is broken from ball hits. If so replace it.
If not.
I'd turn the game off. Remove the black pearl, inspect bottom for broken wires.
To remove the black pearl, refer to manual. Remove clip on rear of playfield, then between black pearl and back wall of playfield, look down and unscrew the long allen head thing holding it in place.
Slide the black pearl back and up, lay on it's side to the right. Put shop towels down first. No need to remove connectors below the playfield unless you want to remove the whole black pearl from the playfield.
Reverse the proceedure to put the black pearl back in.
LTG : )
Disclaimer : Call jjp and tell them to get LTG : ) back.

Will do and will do LTG. You are the best!

Thank you

#3431 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeadHead:

Will do and will do LTG. You are the best!
Thank you

We have them in stock

#3432 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

We have them in stock

You have LTGs in stock?

#3433 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You have LTGs in stock?

Ha ha ha
opto spinner opto things are in stock

#3434 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You have LTGs in stock?

Too funny.

Opto spinner assembly on page C-7 in the manual.

Part number 51-000089-01 for left and 51-000089-00 for right.

LTG : )

#3435 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeadHead:

Hello,
My right spinner on the black Pearl doesn’t register and is red/doesn’t register in matrix switch test. Has anyone run into this and is the fix to replace the switch? How difficult is this to do?
I didn’t see this in the thread but I did read about adjusting the VUK strength down which I will do as well.
Thx

Make sure to get the right spinner opto protector from JJP. Mine didn't have it and the opto got smashed. All fixed now!

And the opto is not too bad to replace. The protector is super easy to install.

#3436 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Make sure to get the right spinner opto protector from JJP. Mine didn't have it and the opto got smashed. All fixed now!
And the opto is not too bad to replace. The protector is super easy to install.

Order is in the queue already including the opto guard

#3437 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeadHead:

Hi all,
I am running into a similar issue as Heater.
In my case, when ball #2 ejects into the shooter lane, the goblet is qualified automatically. Then, when I hit various pieces of 8 shots, sometimes I’ll get two for one (I shoot the wooden eye shot which qualifies both that and the glass bottle for example).
Before I pursue the recommendations of adjusting the maelstrom multi ball difficulty settings and then switch tests, I thought I’d ask the group if anyone has experienced/diagnosed/fixed this issue.
Thank you.

For those of you that may have had a similar issue to mine, I reached out to JJP technical help and Stephen did a great job.

He confirmed with the programming team, the easier the maelstrom multiball setting, the more likely nearby pieces of 8 shots will be spotted if you hit one of the pieces of 8 red arrow shots.

I increased the multi all level difficulty from factory level 3 and it resolved the issue.

Thanks again to the community here for helping me and others.

#3438 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

First check if it's opto thing is broken from ball hits. If so replace it.
If not.
I'd turn the game off. Remove the black pearl, inspect bottom for broken wires.
To remove the black pearl, refer to manual. Remove clip on rear of playfield, then between black pearl and back wall of playfield, look down and unscrew the long allen head thing holding it in place.
Slide the black pearl back and up, lay on it's side to the right. Put shop towels down first. No need to remove connectors below the playfield unless you want to remove the whole black pearl from the playfield.
Reverse the proceedure to put the black pearl back in.
LTG : )
Disclaimer : Call jjp and tell them to get LTG : ) back.

LTG or anyone, can you please share the step by step needed to remove and replace right ship opto? Thank you!

#3439 1 year ago
Quoted from PinDeadHead:

needed to remove and replace right ship opto?

Turn game off. Remove playfield glass and put somewhere safe. Lift playfield up and pull forward and rest on front of cabinet so you can access the black pearl better.

Page C-34 in the manual. You might have to remove plastic molding around it. Then remove it's bracket #2 in the diagram. Then you can get at the screws holding the opto on.

Follow the wires below the playfield, you might need to cut a cable tie or two. Unplug the opto wires for that side.

LTG : )

#3440 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Turn game off. Remove playfield glass and put somewhere safe. Lift playfield up and pull forward and rest on front of cabinet so you can access the black pearl better.
Page C-34 in the manual. You might have to remove plastic molding around it. Then remove it's bracket #2 in the diagram. Then you can get at the screws holding the opto on.
Follow the wires below the playfield, you might need to cut a cable tie or two. Unplug the opto wires for that side.
LTG : )

Thank you sir!

#3441 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Turn game off. Remove playfield glass and put somewhere safe. Lift playfield up and pull forward and rest on front of cabinet so you can access the black pearl better.
Page C-34 in the manual. You might have to remove plastic molding around it. Then remove it's bracket #2 in the diagram. Then you can get at the screws holding the opto on.
Follow the wires below the playfield, you might need to cut a cable tie or two. Unplug the opto wires for that side.
LTG : )

LTG is best support rep in the industry. JJP please beg him to come back.

#3442 1 year ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

LTG is best support rep in the industry.

Thank you my friend !

Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

JJP please beg him to come back.

They wouldn't have to beg.

LTG : )

#3443 1 year ago

Hey - just a little cautionary note on the ship opto replacement above. I just ordered 2 18-005003-00s from the JJP website and I think there might be 2 versions of that part? Both have the same screw hole placement. Both have the same connector. The one in the game mounted on the "front" of the bracket and was short and stubby and wide. The one that came from JJP was longer, narrower, and I had to mount it on the back of the bracket with some plastic buffer and adjust the spinner to have it register hits and spin freely. It works well now. I now also have a mod that protects it from strikes in the rear. I'm just leaving this other to make sure folks get the right 18-005003-00s!

#3444 1 year ago
Quoted from Tirowen:

Hey - just a little cautionary note on the ship opto replacement above. I just ordered 2 18-005003-00s from the JJP website and I think there might be 2 versions of that part? Both have the same screw hole placement. Both have the same connector. The one in the game mounted on the "front" of the bracket and was short and stubby and wide. The one that came from JJP was longer, narrower, and I had to mount it on the back of the bracket with some plastic buffer and adjust the spinner to have it register hits and spin freely. It works well now. I now also have a mod that protects it from strikes in the rear. I'm just leaving this other to make sure folks get the right 18-005003-00s!

Explanation - the parts carry the same part number and serve the same purpose. The designers of Pirates took the part from Hobbit and used it on the Black Pearl. We ran out of the Pirates ones at some point recently so when ordered, the Hobbit optos (which have longer harnesses to at least allow easier plug in below) are filling in and seem to be working fine.

#3445 1 year ago

Cool. So did I do the "right" thing by bending the spinner arm so it actually fit in the skinnier bracket? It works so I'm inclined to say yes but is there an easier way?

#3446 1 year ago
Quoted from Tirowen:

Cool. So did I do the "right" thing by bending the spinner arm so it actually fit in the skinnier bracket? It works so I'm inclined to say yes but is there an easier way?

I hadn't heard of that being necessary from anyone else who got essentially the Hobbit version of that opto for Pirates but yes if that made it work. I'll check with the guys at the factory - mainly Eric in this case.

1 week later
#3447 1 year ago

Hello, I need your help. During a game, a marble was stuck and it took me a while to find it. There was a long ball search. Since the switch "Shooter lane" does not register. Marbles are not returned automatically. I replaced the switch but it didn't work. I think I've reached my skill limit. Could someone help me with the diagnosis? Thanks.

#3448 1 year ago
Quoted from Stef95:

Could someone help me with the diagnosis?

Tests - Switches Matrixed. Does it work there ? If so just needs adjusting so the ball triggers it.

If not then check if any wires broke off of it. If that looks good, then check the switch matrix in the manual page C-152. It's on column 7 and row 7. Check switches on that row or column to see if a wire is off there. And on the I/O board check that connectors J201-7 and J200-7 are on tight.

LTG : )

#3449 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Tests - Commutateurs matricés. Ça marche là-bas ? Si c'est le cas, il suffit de l'ajuster pour que la balle la déclenche.
Si ce n'est pas le cas, vérifiez si des fils s'en sont détachés. Si cela semble bon, vérifiez la matrice de commutation dans la page de manuel C-152. C'est sur la colonne 7 et la ligne 7. Vérifiez les commutateurs sur cette ligne ou cette colonne pour voir si un fil est éteint là-bas. Et sur la carte d'E/S, vérifiez que les connecteurs J201-7 et J200-7 sont bien serrés.
LTG : )

Thank you very much, it was the thread of the target ×3 !! I figured out how to follow rows and columns

IMG_20220614_150709 (resized).jpgIMG_20220614_150709 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#3450 1 year ago

Having trouble getting my POTC to boot up. It's been working fine in this same spot for about 2 years now. The fan for the motherboard and the power supply are turning on. I tried the manual jumper for the mb anyway and it turns these off/on. I also tried clearing the CMOS, but that didn't change anything. I tried reseating as many connectors on the motherboard and the HDD as I could. The game just turned 3 years old, so I have not touched the battery yet since getting it.

When I turn on the game, I get the JJP logo and then it goes to a screen where it is asking me to select the OS, with the options of "*Ubuntu" or "Advanced options for Ubuntu". If I let it load "*Ubuntu", it opens another screen where a wall of text appears and then stops. I can't get it to do anything more from this point.

I couldn't find any other reports of this specific problem. I am suspicious of the ATX power supply in the game because of a high pitch whine I have been hearing through the speakers for a while now, but I don't know enough about it to say if it's related. Any suggestions?

20220702_200643 (resized).jpg20220702_200643 (resized).jpg20220702_141040 (resized).jpg20220702_141040 (resized).jpg
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San Diego, CA
From: $ 85.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Mod Co.
 
€ 99.00
Lighting - Under Cabinet
Watssapen shop
 
$ 24.00
Lighting - Other
Pinball Mod Co.
 
$ 95.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Mod Co.
 
22,000
Machine - For Sale
Smithtown, NY
Wanted
$ 130.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Dijohn
 
$ 25.00
Playfield - Protection
Pinball Mod Co.
 
24,999 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Frisco, TX
$ 26.50
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
 
From: $ 44.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PinBoss Mods
 
$ 29.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos LLC
 
$ 20.50
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
 
$ 43.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
 
From: $ 65.00
Lighting - Other
Pinball Mod Co.
 
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
 
From: $ 30.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 427.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinWoofer
 
$ 28.75
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
 
From: $ 91.00
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
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