Pirates of the Caribbean
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2018There have been 606 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).
Quoted from LOTR_breath:
I just ordered the post kit from JJP. Do you think they will send it free of charge even if I'm not the original owner?
The post fix kit doesn't work. You'll just be wasting your time. The playfield will just bubble through them, and it doesn't take long. Buy a new set of double rung star posts, putting the sling rubber on the bottom rung, and rubber washers to go underneath them Hillman brand at Lowe's
I have a problem that may be easy for most of you, but I haven't dealt with it before. The right mini flipper on the ship powers up immediately when the game is powered on. It will go down when the power is cut, so it is not mechanical, and it is only that one flipper.
It started in the middle of a game, and then went back down after powering down and starting a new game. Now it immediately goes to the up position when power is supplied, so it appeared to get worse ... if that helps diagnose the problem. I have checked the wire connections going into the ship, and have checked the flipper button for problems and have found nothing. I could use some advice on where to start on diagnosing this.
Anybody have any thoughts? Thank you.
Quoted from statsdoc:
Anybody have any thoughts?
If it locks on at power up. Transistor on the I/O board is bad.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:
If it locks on at power up. Transistor on the I/O board is bad.
LTG : )
Hi Lloyd, Thank you for the help. That sounds expensive. I have had the pin since new for about a year. Do you have any idea what cost I am facing?
Thank you
Hi Lloyd, Thank you for the help. That sounds expensive. I have had the pin since new for about a year. Do you have any idea what cost I am facing?
Thank you
Not lloyd, but it's a dirt cheap part. Couple bucks and 10-15 minutes time if you know how to solder through-hole parts.
If you pay someone to do it local to you, I'd think around $100, depending on where you are (can't tell, your profile is incognito) could be higher or lower.
Coil might also be shorted, which could have blown the transistor, so replacement might be the coil and a transistor. I'd check the resistance of the coil to make sure it isn't shorted before powering up with the new transistor because if the coil is shorted, it will blow the new transistor, too.
Quoted from vireland:
Not lloyd, but it's a dirt cheap part. Couple bucks and 10 minutes time.
If you pay someone to do it local to you, I'd think around $100, depending on where you are (can't tell, your profile is incognito) could be higher or lower.
Thank you for the help. I can make the swap without a problem, but diagnosing this was going to be tough given my skills. 
I was assuming that JJP I/O board was going to be custom and expensive. I will look up the part in their manual, unless any of you have a link for a good replacement.
This site is amazing for help. Thank you again.
Thank you for the help. I can make the swap without a problem, but diagnosing this was going to be tough given my skills.
I was assuming that JJP I/O board was going to be custom and expensive. I will look up the part in their manual, unless any of you have a link for a good replacement.
This site is amazing for help. Thank you again.
The actual I/O board is large and expensive, but you're not replacing the whole board, just one burned out MOSFET on it.
According to the manual the right Black Pearl Flipper power is Q406. The hold is Q405. It's probably the power one, but you should test both. The part is a IRL-540 Mosfet.
It's located in the area I've highlighted in green on the diagram of the I/O board from the manual (click to enlarge). This board is in the large rectangular case in the backbox.
IO-PCB (resized).jpg
According to the manual the right Black Pearl Flipper power is Q406. The hold is Q405. It's probably the power one, but you should test both. The part is a IRL-540 Mosfet.
It's located in the area I've highlighted in green on the diagram of the I/O board from the manual (click to enlarge). This board is in the large rectangular case in the backbox.
[quoted image]
Thanks for the help. I was getting lost reading the schematics and went right past that board. I will read up on how to test the transistor and give it a go. I also just reread your comment and realized that soldering is required. That is not my forte'. I will see who I can find locally that does board soldering in Nashville.
Thanks for the help. I was getting lost reading the schematics and went right past that board. I will read up on how to test the transistor and give it a go. I also just reread your comment and realized that soldering is required. That is not my forte'. I will see who I can find locally that does board soldering in Nashville.
I’m sure you have already but needed to ask before you jump to this type repair which Most likely is the issue. Have you checked the blade switch on the right flipper button to make sure it didn’t just get bent raising the Playfield and locked closed?
Quoted from Yelobird:
I’m sure you have already but needed to ask before you jump to this type repair which Most likely is the issue. Have you checked the blade switch on the right flipper button to make sure it didn’t just get bent raising the Playfield and locked closed?
If the flipper leaf blade switch was stuck closed. The flipper wouldn't go up when you turn the game on. It would go up when you start a game.
LTG : )
If the flipper leaf blade switch was stuck closed. The flipper wouldn't go up when you turn the game on. It would go up when you start a game.
LTG : )
Wow missed that you are 100% right. Simple fix but that’s a board issue. Sorry.
Quoted from cheshirefilms:
The post fix kit doesn't work. You'll just be wasting your time. The playfield will just bubble through them, and it doesn't take long. Buy a new set of double rung star posts, putting the sling rubber on the bottom rung, and rubber washers to go underneath them Hillman brand at Lowe's
pasted_image (resized).pngCan you explain this more? I thought from this picture that the post repair kit was Star Posts and rubber washers. They are not double rung, however. Are you saying double rung will make that much difference?[quoted image]
Different problems. Double rung posts are for slingshot escapes. Star posts + washers (any type) are for arresting and/or hiding the cracking around the posts.
I'd put them on, personally.
Can you explain this more? I thought from this picture that the post repair kit was Star Posts and rubber washers. They are not double rung, however. Are you saying double rung will make that much difference?[quoted image]
Forget the JJP washers and double star posts and just buy Titan silicone washers for all the plastic posts with art under them. You want to stop the posts from creating sideway force / slipping on the thick, soft clear. The Titan washers compress and are much less prone to slip. The hard, big JJP washers will only temporarily hide the problem. You could also buy metal washers with neoprene attached to them like recommended earlier, but I prefer the silicone since it’s softer and grabs better. Yelobird did a great thread on everything you need to know to fix and protect the playfield.
I just ordered the post kit from JJP. Do you think they will send it free of charge even if I'm not the original owner?
They did to me I’m not the original owner.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:
They did to me I’m not the original owner.
Well, JJP contacted me via email. The kit will be free but they need a CC# to cover the shipping.
I'm looking at the Titan Silicone washers now. I think I will be ordering 6 of them.
Here's a pic of the left slingshot. Very minor now, so I want to try to prevent it from getting worse.
20200627_222303 (resized).jpgWell, JJP contacted me via email. The kit will be free but they need a CC# to cover the shipping.
I'm looking at the Titan Silicone washers now. I think I will be ordering 6 of them.
Here's a pic of the left slingshot. Very minor now, so I want to try to prevent it from getting worse.
[quoted image]
You can stick some clear acrylic (not GEL!) nail polish on it to prevent the chip from getting worse. Just make sure you let it dry fully before covering it up again.
Well, JJP contacted me via email. The kit will be free but they need a CC# to cover the shipping.
I'm looking at the Titan Silicone washers now. I think I will be ordering 6 of them.
Here's a pic of the left slingshot. Very minor now, so I want to try to prevent it from getting worse.
[quoted image]
I think the height of the regular and star posts is the same. If so, suggest you replace the bottom sling post with a star one and larger silicon washer to hide/protect the area. I'd also install silicone washers on all the other plastic posts with art under them - especially any that are under tension from rubbers or subject to ball strikes.
Quoted from 3pinballs:
Ball has been getting stuck here lately.....anyone else having the issue and fix?
[quoted image]
Right spinner support is likely bent up a bit from long term play. Bend down right side with finger and should be fine.
Right spinner support is likely bent up a bit from long term play. Bend down right side with finger and should be fine.
Don't you mean lift UP the right side of the spinner bracket that is sagging a little? Pushing it down would make it worse, wouldn't it?
jjpotc-ball-stuck (resized).jpgIs there any kind of adjustment that can be made to the chapter select magnet? when the ball sits to the left of the post I get a SDTM about 75% of the time. The only way to avoid it some of the time is to shake the machine right as it is about to release, but even that doesn’t always stop it. I end up with a slap save into the 3x target and still drain. It didn’t used to do that. Something has changed.
Quoted from JamCat:
Is there any kind of adjustment that can be made to the chapter select magnet? when the ball sits to the left of the post I get a SDTM about 75% of the time. The only way to avoid it some of the time is to shake the machine right as it is about to release, but even that doesn’t always stop it. I end up with a slap save into the 3x target and still drain. It didn’t used to do that. Something has changed.
Wear on the rubber or slop on the post. Some people have changed the rubber or doubled up with some success.
Wear on the rubber or slop on the post. Some people have changed the rubber or doubled up with some success.
Actually it started happing more after I changed the rubber on the left side, hmmmm. I forgot I changed it. I put a titan rubber on it because the factory one was wearing through but it wasn’t screwing me over. I might have to try a different rubber again.
Actually it started happing more after I changed the rubber on the left side, hmmmm. I forgot I changed it. I put a titan rubber on it because the factory one was wearing through but it wasn’t screwing me over. I might have to try a different rubber again.
Titans aren't rubber, but didn't jjPotC come from the factory with Titans or Titan knockoffs?
You could also try thickening the post with a thin sleeve, then putting the rubber over that, which would extend the rubber out probably 3/8" or so.
Titans aren't rubber, but didn't jjPotC come from the factory with Titans or Titan knockoffs?
You could also try thickening the post with a thin sleeve, then putting the rubber over that, which would extend the rubber out probably 3/8" or so.
I think your idea of thickening the post might be best. I’ll give that a shot soon.
Don't you mean lift UP the right side of the spinner bracket that is sagging a little? Pushing it down would make it worse, wouldn't it?[quoted image]
I think pushing up is correct
Quoted from MK6PIN:
I identified the problem to be in the LCD driver board, which lives underneath the actual screen itself. They are connected by the mini ribbon cable. This forms the assembly, along w related nylon screws, housing, etc. Verifying, re-seated everything first, then could easily replicate problem by tapping on the board.
Not sure which component on the board was intermittent, so purchased new screen and complete driver board from JJP.
Once new parts installed, display has been rock solid.
Not a difficult swap, just have to take care w the lacquered ribbon cable seating...
Hope that helped. Jim at JJP got me what I needed...
Thought I would give an update on this that worked for me. I finely got around to look at the small apron display and its non-working (flashing) issue I was having. First of all I dislike to purchase new parts without trying to fix what I own. This issue just seemed to me to be a connection issue as the display would work, but tapping on the display/apron and/or flipping the flippers caused it to flash on/off. I did previously take it out and re-soldered the power connections without no change, so thought I would look at it one more time before calling JJP and ordering new parts. This time upon observation one of the small caps appeared to have missed being soldered completely in as you could see an open hole around its connection in the board. Re-flowed solder around all of these small caps, I think there are 3 or 4 of them. Reinstalled all parts and now the display works without any flashing issues. Problem solved!
While playing tonight I noticed one of the rubber pads (same ones found on the tortuga bracket and the man overboard area) had fallen off and was laying near the depths.
Can anyone tell me where that rubber pad on the left side goes?
Well, JJP contacted me via email. The kit will be free but they need a CC# to cover the shipping.
I'm looking at the Titan Silicone washers now. I think I will be ordering 6 of them.
Here's a pic of the left slingshot. Very minor now, so I want to try to prevent it from getting worse.
[quoted image]
Well, getting some really poor communication from JJP. They asked me in an email to call and provide a credit card number to have on file for the shipping. I called and left a detailed message including my cell #. No reply, so I called again, no answer. So against my better judgement I replied to the email and provided my cc#. Not a word in 4 days.
I just ordered 6 double star posts and 6 silicone washers from Titan and they've already shipped. Thanks Titan Pinball!
Quoted from Mikespinball:
Thought I would give an update on this that worked for me. I finely got around to look at the small apron display and its non-working (flashing) issue I was having. First of all I dislike to purchase new parts without trying to fix what I own. This issue just seemed to me to be a connection issue as the display would work, but tapping on the display/apron and/or flipping the flippers caused it to flash on/off. I did previously take it out and re-soldered the power connections without no change, so thought I would look at it one more time before calling JJP and ordering new parts. This time upon observation one of the small caps appeared to have missed being soldered completely in as you could see an open hole around its connection in the board. Re-flowed solder around all of these small caps, I think there are 3 or 4 of them. Reinstalled all parts and now the display works without any flashing issues. Problem solved!
Great job!!! I didn't dive that deep, but saved the problematic one....will certainly look closer.... a spare drive board can't hurt (is what I'll tell myself)...
Is this Normal when flippers are up?
What does everyone have their power settings for flippers? My left one seems a little weaker than the right.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Right flipper just looks a tad low in that pic to me. Adjust and align.
Left flipper going a little higher and feeling weaker. Could be a loose or bad coil stop. Remove the coil stop and take a look. #3 in the picture.
[quoted image]
thx, I'll look into that..thx
Right flipper just looks a tad low in that pic to me. Adjust and align.
Ok, thx....can't seem to locate the flipper alignment holes...I might be blind!!!
Ok, thx....can't seem to locate the flipper alignment holes...I might be blind!!!
I don't think your blind unless I am too!
LTG, Is there a proper way to adjust flipper bats?
Don't you mean lift UP the right side of the spinner bracket that is sagging a little? Pushing it down would make it worse, wouldn't it?[quoted image]
Used pliers to hold left side of spinner bracket, then lifted right side up with finger.....Now ball clears properly. Thx
Quoted from heni1977:
LTG, Is there a proper way to adjust flipper bats?
I eye ball them. Line them up with return guides.
Your game. Place them where you like their response.
LTG : )
I think my POTC CE's main monitior is dead. A few weeks ago it didn't power on (and the compass display showed the main video instead), but restarting the machine fixed it. Last night when I powered it on it had the same issue, but restarting (multiple times) didn't fix it. I've re-seated the DVI cables on both ends to no avail. The display is completely black and I can't see the backlight and the menu and input indicators do not show (if there is even an input overlay). I also tried the power button on the back, but it does not power it on. I've confirmed with a multimeter that the power going into the monitor is live with 12v.
The game plays fine otherwise so at least it's not bricked for now, but it's hard to see what's going on in the game with an upside display on the compass display. I opened a ticket with JJP support, but wanted to post here in case someone else had any other ideas to try. I don't have any other displays that take DVI or VGA to test with either.
Quoted from Maide:
I think my POTC CE's main monitior is dead. A few weeks ago it didn't power on (and the compass display showed the main video instead), but restarting the machine fixed it. Last night when I powered it on it had the same issue, but restarting (multiple times) didn't fix it. I've re-seated the DVI cables on both ends to no avail. The display is completely black and I can't see the backlight and the menu and input indicators do not show (if there is even an input overlay). I also tried the power button on the back, but it does not power it on. I've confirmed with a multimeter that the power going into the monitor is live with 12v.
The game plays fine otherwise so at least it's not bricked for now, but it's hard to see what's going on in the game with an upside display on the compass display. I opened a ticket with JJP support, but wanted to post here in case someone else had any other ideas to try. I don't have any other displays that take DVI or VGA to test with either.
Could just be a bad cable. Did you try changing out the video cable?
Bumping this question...I recently found one of those cabinet rubber stoppers on my playfield in front of the depths. Could anyone have a look and let me know where it might go? Thanks!
Quoted from Galooch:
Bumping this question...I recently found one of those cabinet rubber stoppers on my playfield in front of the depths. Could anyone have a look and let me know where it might go? Thanks!
Check the back of the Tortuga scoop and the Man Overboard area, both of which should have one.
Could just be a bad cable. Did you try changing out the video cable?
I tried a DVI to HDMI, which was the only DVI cable I had and it didn't detect it. I think the monitor is dead (or the boards attached to the back of it) because the backlight of the display isn't doing coming on that I can tell, and the monitor controls (menu, on/off, etc) don't do anything.
I tried a DVI to HDMI, which was the only DVI cable I had and it didn't detect it. I think the monitor is dead (or the boards attached to the back of it) because the backlight of the display isn't doing coming on that I can tell, and the monitor controls (menu, on/off, etc) don't do anything.
With the machine on and everything connected, did you try shining a flashlight at the monitor (no backglass) at various angles to see if it's displaying, but maybe the backlight has just died?
I'm thinking of adding a magnetic reed switch to the maelstrom, so I can remove the huge switch zit on the side. Has anybody done this? I've installed one on my CFTBL before.
Quoted from zaphX:
Check the back of the Tortuga scoop and the Man Overboard area, both of which should have one.
Thanks but no luck. I checked and both are still present and accounted for. Do you have any on the left side behind the depths or perhaps it can from the plastics up the port royal shot (plastics under the dauntless)? I’m stumped.
Thanks but no luck. I checked and both are still present and accounted for. Do you have any on the left side behind the depths or perhaps it can from the plastics up the port royal shot (plastics under the dauntless)? I’m stumped.
It’s honestly not that important a part to be worried about. If in hundreds of games you get a ball stuck somewhere you’ll have your answer.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:
I'm thinking of adding a magnetic reed switch to the maelstrom, so I can remove the huge switch zit on the side. Has anybody done this? I've installed one on my CFTBL before.
https://pinballmods.co/pirates-of-the-caribbean-jjp/maelstrom-hidden-switch-mod-jjp-potc
I had to go back to the old one. No matter how much I played with it, if the ball came fast, it wouldn't register. I know others have had better luck
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Plano, TX
