Welcome. Plenty of great information here - auto plunger is a common issue. Mine was rectified simply by tightening everything up. I did the BP removal the other day, not as scary as you may think - whilst you have it off check all of the solder connections to the switches on the left side of the BP - it's common for them to break. Resolder if needed and ensure there isn't too much tension on the wires.

And do the code update! Have fun.

Check the first post in the thread under "shooter issues." Good luck!

I took the Black Pearl completely out and it was BOTH wires on the left EOS switch broken off at the lug. Easy fix. Also cleaned the plungers and coil sleeves for the mini flippers while I had it off. Taking off the BP was pretty straightforward. Had it off in about 10-15 minutes.

I installed the disc silencer kit from the Mod Couple with mixed results. The kit was a serious PITA, mainly because the triangular foam pieces would not release the backing paper. Even using an exacto knife to try to separate the layers. Finally got all that done in about 2 hours. The disc was substantially less loud. But the results were short lived. After 10-15 games I started getting a new noise. I am unable to really tighten the set screws that hold the gear to the motor shaft. I am using a 1/16 allen screw as listed in the instructions, but as soon as the set screw begins to get tight, the tool slips. I cannot see anything wrong with the tool. I was thinking of trying a brand new 1/16 tool or maybe a 1.5mm would work? Anyone have any success being able to really tighten up those screws? I know that is my problem because in the motor test, I can put just the slightest amount of pressure on the disc and the motor spins freely while the disc is stopped, causing a nasty screeching sound.

I have not updated firmware yet. I need to get an 8gb usb stick. All the ones I have are either much smaller or much larger than that.

I used a 1.5mm hex key to tighten the gear to the motor for the spinning disk and so far so good. If they loosen again I may try some lock tight.

Check the wire colors on the right flipper switch and compare to the left. Sounds like the wires may be reversed. Also check the switch gaps and compare to the left. In the "dedicated switch" test it will tell you the wire colors.

Thanks! I added a washer on the right side of the shooter forks and it works much better. Auto plunge will make it to the ship and sometimes all the way around to the upper flipper.

Mine is wired exactly opposite. In the pic, the yellow/red wire is going to the opposite lug. The other wire that looks like solid yellow is actually yellow/orange. If you go into dedicated switch test and slowly press in the button, you will see your switches are wired backwards.

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This is extremely simple. You need to swap the position of the two yellow wires on the right flipper switch.

Someone on the production line soldered the wrong wire to the wrong lug.

Who sells the dual flipper leaf switch? I’ve bought a couple thinking they were correct, but they don’t match. Thanks!

New owner here...finally joined in...beautiful game, extreme low play huo LE.

doing minor adjustment switch stuff...everything good.

Suddenly have noticed my compass LCD screen flickering. checked connections, changed VGA cable, no improvement.

Starting to think the 5v is intermittent (?). Flickering happens w flipper action but random. Ideas? Thanks

I am having the same issue. I took mine out and thought cold solder joints on power. Reflowed and the problem is still there.

I wonder if it's the ATX power supply. When mine went, I was able to reboot the game doing energy-intensive things like spamming the knocker in the coil test.

Any correlation between coils firing and the flickering on the LCD?

Not sure if it's the power supply. I would not think that on mine as I was able to pull out the playfield and with the LCD working I could tap around the display and it would flicker. I am assuming its possibly the ribbon cabling between the board and the display. Not sure how to fix this through.

FYI, check your optos for the two spinners on the Black Pearl. I was waxing today and noticed 1 screw missing and the other 3 extremely loose. I found a suitable screw and tightened everything up. Surprisingly, both spinners were working fine in this state. Also, I discovered the option to upload a photo to the game. Pretty cool feature!

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Fixed...bad driver board for LCD....( P/s actually 12v)...got assembly from JJP...great service. A little assembly required, but nothing tough

Not the ribbon cable on mine...reseated everything ...tapping on the driver board ( under the LCD screen) was the giveaway...

So let me understand this correctly by rebuilding the power supply for the small LCD screen, the board under the screen itself, that fixed your screen flicker. Did JJP send you a kit for repairs I am assuming.

I identified the problem to be in the LCD driver board, which lives underneath the actual screen itself. They are connected by the mini ribbon cable. This forms the assembly, along w related nylon screws, housing, etc. Verifying, reseated everything first, then could easily replicate problem by tapping on the board.

Not sure which component on the board was intermittent, so purchased new screen and complete driver board from JJP.

Once new parts installed, display has been rock solid.

Not a difficult swap, just have to take care w the lacquered ribbon cable seating...

Hope that helped. Jim at JJP got me what I needed...

Thank you for the follow up. Were the two parts expensive to replace? Just hate the idea of having to pay for new parts so soon after I got the machine.

I think around $70 for both pieces plus freight...my panel was good, but bought it anyway to be safe....

Thank you for the information. I'll give them a call today and check on ordering the parts. Glad you were able to get yours fixed.

Very new to owning my own machine, and extremely brand new in trying to service one, so bear with me on being a complete novice.

But I'm getting a matrix switch #41 error, left slingshot, low (stuck closed). Basically the left slingshot just will fire over and over again, going on for usually 30 seconds and then stopping. Seems to go in and out. Was originally red on the matrix, but now it's stays green at all times (then it fires nonstop). Suggestions?

Turn the game off. Remove the plastic over the sling shot kicker and leaf blade switches. Pull on the rubber ring around the posts, so you have equal pressure on all sides, not tight on the kicker/leaf blade switch side. The leaf blade switches - front long one should be resting on the rubber ring, not pushing it or away from it. Shorter rear one should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it, yet vibration doesn't. There are two leaf blade switches, one each side of the kicker. At least one needs a little adjusting. When bending forward or backward, get as close to the fiberboard spacers as you can.

LTG : )

And when you make your next purchase from a pinball parts dealer get your self a leaf adjustment tool.

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Several times now I've gotten a switch error for the upper slingshot switch stuck closed(the one under the BP ramp). What happens is the taller front blade of the switch gets pushed all the way back and gets stuck under the ramp. All I have to do is pull the switch blade back out from under the ramp and it works fine for a few days, then it happens again. Does anyone else have this problem and know of a fix?

This happens to me at least every other day. I get my tool out and just pull it clear of the ramp. Also looking for a permanent fix here.

I have thought about removing the switch and cutting about 1-2mm off the end of the front switch blade.

Bingo !

LTG : )

Thanks! Rotating the rubber ring seemed to do the trick, I didn't notice anything majorly wrong with the leaf blade switches.

I’ve got the same issue. Going to pull that cover off tomorrow, see if it’s broken. Seems common with the VUK coming in too hard. What has the solution been? Need a whole new assembly from JJ or can the opto be replaced?

The ball on the VUK is hitting the optos behind the spinners on the pearl. You can get a shield from JJP by just asking for it. If you looking for something more easy on the eyes, then get the pinball mod co Pearl Stand Up Target window. It too will protect the optos like the shield, but just look better between the spinners. https://pinballmods.co/pirates-of-the-caribbean-jjp/Stand-up-illuminated-window-jjp-potc

You will have to pull the BP which after you do it a few times, it's not a big deal. Just take your time and once you have it off, study the bottom of the BP and the mounting bracket on the game for it. This gives you an idea how it goes back on without having to guess! Good luck

Right BP spinner not working. This is what I got, the black wire on the opto hanging free. Obvious solution is to solder this back. Do you all think it’s necessary to take the BP out of the machine or should I just pull the play field out and give it a run? I eyes are not what they used to be or if think this would be easy. Before I cut that green zip tie, is there slack on these wires at all?

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Is the opto still intact, or is it in pieces?

Totally in tact just broken wire.

Is there a away to adjust the compass LCD to the left or right. Mine looks to be off compared to others I’ve seen. I have a black gap on the left hand side. I searched the menus and only see adjustment for the main screen.

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Anybody know what I’m supposed to do with this? Got the new bracket for the tartuga hole (works like a charm), and they sent the POTC Post Repair Kit 51-100072-00 with it, photo attached.

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Replace posts that have pooling around them under the slingshots. Put washer down, then post.

LTG : )

Any update on the Pirates code update? It feels like ages since we saw some beta testers using it.

I just ordered the post kit from JJP. Do you think they will send it free of charge even if I'm not the original owner?

Mark! Welcome to the club.

Comes w replacement assembly...not sure if it was included w NIB, as I am the second owner of this pin ( wasn't included in machine transfer and he was super efficient at keeping everything)

Mileages may vary but on my game I noticed that the posts on the I and E lane took wear from clearcoatgate more than others. The best solution I think is a double washer solution, Hillman 1/4 inch rubber and 1/4 inch Hillman Nylon for stability on top of it (the rubber inverts in without it). Tightened down nice, the nylon height compresses so gives a negligible difference.

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No idea. Sorry.

LTG : )

Yes. Based on my experience, and some friends, they will supply manuals and fix-it kits one per SN.

Ouch, I suspect if that was said there will be several disappointed as that same fix-it program to used buyers didn't apply to playfields....