(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

7 months ago



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#201 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Glad you called and got feedback! Whom did you speak with there? I need to make a call myselt. Thank you for posting this prior to me getting this "fixed" but seemingly not fixed. Phew!

I talked to Butch at JJP. My monitor sits a little low and the upper frame of the monitor shows through the glass. I was finally able to get it level after adjusting the screws on the back of the monitor, but the arm is the issue. He was very helpful and is sending out a new arm (four bolts to the backbox and four bolts to the back of the monitor.

#202 7 months ago
Quoted from Hogey:

I talked to Butch at JJP. My monitor sits a little low and the upper frame of the monitor shows through the glass. I was finally able to get it level after adjusting the screws on the back of the monitor, but the arm is the issue. He was very helpful and is sending out a new arm (four bolts to the backbox and four bolts to the back of the monitor.

I don't know why they don't stop messing with the clunky side mounts and just do a top mount instead that flips up to give access. They'd have to make a lower bracket to lock it in to when it's down, but it would eliminate sag since the weight bearing part would be centered over the monitor from the top. They'd have to modify it so it flips up instead of back, but this is not an engineering impossibility. 90% of the work is already done. Something like this:

amazon.com link »

#203 7 months ago

wesman here are a few pics of my lock down bar. It does appear that my pf sits all the way against the bar when it is down. Screws are 1/4 inch out lock bar is 2 1/2 from right/s of cab.

BEBF24CA-D9A7-4B5E-B917-E1C28729B66F (resized).jpegC2427674-A7E2-4C4B-9C34-B5A8067C71E6 (resized).jpegD29205B9-0513-4F09-97F8-889A29D38C07 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#204 7 months ago
Quoted from heni1977:

wesman here are a few pics of my lock down bar. It does appear that my pf sits all the way against the bar when it is down. Screws are 1/4 inch out lock bar is 2 1/2 from right/s of cab.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Oooh! Thanks for taking all of those photos and measurements! My lockdown bar handle, sits about the same then, when it's not engaged.

Can you take a snap of where the yellow handle is when the bar itself is on?

My hooks are about where yours are, now, after adjusting the receiver.

Thank you again!

#205 7 months ago

On Wonka they switched to magnetic latches instead of the clips.

#206 7 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

On Wonka they switched to magnetic latches instead of the clips.

I'm very excited by this, it sounds like a good upgrade.

#207 7 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

On Wonka they switched to magnetic latches instead of the clips.

Rather than playfield hooks or for the lockdown bar handle?

#208 7 months ago

To keep the monitor clicked into place in the backbox

#209 7 months ago

There you go.

E3BAA0D7-F9B8-4EA0-AB3D-0ED5DC1AD6FA (resized).jpeg
#210 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I'm very excited by this, it sounds like a good upgrade.

Interesting!

#211 7 months ago
Quoted from heni1977:

There you go.
[quoted image]

Deeeeeeefinitely farther right than mine. Second today. I'm going to have to do what Lloyd suggested earlier, lift the playfield, then place the lockdown bar on, and try to see what's happening.

Thanks for that photo!

#212 7 months ago
Quoted from heni1977:

There you go.
[quoted image]

Can you do me one last favor? Please take a shot of how far your glass fits into the trim just below backglass. Mine has a gap.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2F7vmXSkD7enhHzS6

I took a staple out two weeks ago, but just found this weird stuff in the upper right, in a photo I took that night.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/nZZivTin3xinWrBy5

#213 7 months ago

vireland

So I'm a little torn...but maybe not really.

The consensus seems to be in the "main" fan POTC thread to reach out to JJP and get a replacement flipper assembly and keep the other as a spare once I get it fixed.

Two issues:
1) I still have to remove the part where the spring is still under the BP.
2) More importantly, how LONG is that going to take to get a replacement?

Sure.. I can definitely let JJP Support know or w/e, but I think I just want to fix what I have anyways because I really don't want to wait.

I know... less typing and more fixing, but i just haven't had a lot of time lately and this isn't the "easiest" stuff to just do whenever.

#214 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

vireland
So I'm a little torn...but maybe not really.
The consensus seems to be in the "main" fan POTC thread to reach out to JJP and get a replacement flipper assembly and keep the other as a spare once I get it fixed.
Two issues:
1) I still have to remove the part where the spring is still under the BP.
2) More importantly, how LONG is that going to take to get a replacement?
Sure.. I can definitely let JJP Support know or w/e, but I think I just want to fix what I have anyways because I really don't want to wait.
I know... less typing and more fixing, but i just haven't had a lot of time lately and this isn't the "easiest" stuff to just do whenever.

Get a replacement. You have 90% of the work done to swap it. It will take maybe 10 minutes to put the new assembly in. I assume JJP will ship it out right away, but if they can't ask if they'll reimburse you if you just buy one from Marco (it's less than $10). Marco is literally only 3 hours from you so you should have it next day if you get it from them.

#215 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Get a replacement. You have 90% of the work done to swap it. It will take maybe 10 minutes to put the new assembly in. I assume JJP will ship it out right away, but if they can't ask if they'll reimburse you if you just buy one from Marco (it's less than $10). Marco is literally only 3 hours from you so you should have it next day if you get it from them.

Oh awesome!

Okay then.

I mean... I have the roll pin punch kit now lol, but maybe there's something else going on and that's why the flipper is binding.
They are 24/7 Support?

Side note: I had no clue Marco was so close...

#216 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Side note: I had no clue Marco was so close...

Yeah, I'm super-jealous of you living near Marco, and even closer to Kinston/Chef & the Farmer, which is on my bucket list of restaurants to try.

#217 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

vireland
So I'm a little torn...but maybe not really.
The consensus seems to be in the "main" fan POTC thread to reach out to JJP and get a replacement flipper assembly and keep the other as a spare once I get it fixed.
Two issues:
1) I still have to remove the part where the spring is still under the BP.
2) More importantly, how LONG is that going to take to get a replacement?
Sure.. I can definitely let JJP Support know or w/e, but I think I just want to fix what I have anyways because I really don't want to wait.
I know... less typing and more fixing, but i just haven't had a lot of time lately and this isn't the "easiest" stuff to just do whenever.

You would have had the part already when I asked last week if you contacted your distributor

#218 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Mine has a gap.

They all have a gap, as to why I don't know. Maybe LTG could answer that question. My Space Station from 1987 and Star Trek from 2013 also have this gap.
As for that crude in the corner, I have no idea. Would need another pic. But could be left over manufacturing garbage that was not cleaned up.

#219 7 months ago

JJP has reached out so an order is on its way! =)

#220 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

JJP has reached out so an order is on its way! =)

Good to hear; I am sure we all respect you trying to fix it yourself, but really you should just get a new part.

#221 7 months ago

So...... Finally I think I've resolved my lockdown bar/coin door/playfield hook situation.

Thanks to LTG vireland Pinballomatic Bublehead Heni1977 and anyone else that offered advice, insight, and most of all patience.

Long story short, when I received the game three weeks ago tomorrow, the yellow handle on the lockdown bar, wasn't engaged. (As seen in the photo with the plastic on the lockdown bar).

I own one game, but didn't realize how much of an issue that was, as I was still able to push the coin door closed, while brushing the mech.

My issues at that point were largely the playfield hooks not resting, and the lockdown bar not sitting.

After looking at the lockdown bar itself, the one tab was crooked, so I bent that slightly and now that seated fine. Unfortunately, the playfield itself still wasn't.

Through advice, I adjusted the position of the receiver, to the left. Doing so allowed the hooks to rest in a way that didn't take hours of pushing, loom adjustment, etc.

After that I inspected the trim channels for debris, possibly blocking the glass from meeting entirely at the back. Other than the staple I'd removed prior, nothing existed.

So again based on advice, I shifted the receiver as far upwards as I could, possibly just 1/8-1/4" more than it had been seated prior. Doing so allowed me to see the sliding spring loaded bar itself in the mechanism, wasn't high enough to allow the tooth of the lockdown bar's tabs, to slot in towards the right when pressure is placed to properly seat the bar.

I did notice the filament inside the brass screw housing extends past and outside of those nuts. Which to me seems to also not allow the height of the spring bar to raise slightly further, allowing the teeth of the tabs to meet effortlessly.

So now with firm pressure, not at all with ease, when glass is inserted I can slide the yellow handle to the left, thus allowing the lockdown bar to fully be engaged.

Phew.....

The top photo is how it sits now.

The bottom is how it arrived.
20190418_041702 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20190418-042048_Photos (resized).jpgPSX_20190418_042357 (resized).jpgPSX_20190418_042646 (resized).jpgimage000000_10 (resized).jpg

#222 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

So...... Finally I think I've resolved my lockdown bar/coin door/playfield hook situation.
Thanks to LTG vireland Pinballomatic Bublehead Heni1977 and anyone else that offered advice, insight, and most of all patience.
Long story short, when I received the game three weeks ago tomorrow, the yellow handle on the lockdown bar, wasn't engaged. (As seen in the photo with the plastic on the lockdown bar).
I own one game, but didn't realize how much of an issue that was, as I was still able to push the coin door closed, while brushing the mech.
My issues at that point were largely the playfield hooks not resting, and the lockdown bar not sitting.
After looking at the lockdown bar itself, the one tab was crooked, so I bent that slightly and now that seated fine. Unfortunately, the playfield itself still wasn't.
Through advice, I adjusted the position of the receiver, to the left. Doing so allowed the hooks to rest in a way that didn't take hours of pushing, loom adjustment, etc.
After that I inspected the trim channels for debris, possibly blocking the glass from meeting entirely at the back. Other than the staple I'd removed prior, nothing existed.
So again based on advice, I shifted the receiver as far upwards as I could, possibly just 1/8-1/4" more than it had been seated prior. Doing so allowed me to see the sliding spring loaded bar itself in the mechanism, wasn't high enough to allow the tooth of the lockdown bar's tabs, to slot in towards the right when pressure is placed to properly seat the bar.
I did notice the filament inside the brass screw housing extends past and outside of those nuts. Which to me seems to also not allow the height of the spring bar to raise slightly further, allowing the teeth of the tabs to meet effortlessly.
So now with firm pressure, not at all with ease, when glass is inserted I can slide the yellow handle to the left, thus allowing the lockdown bar to fully be engaged.
Phew.....
The top photo is how it sits now.
The bottom is how it arrived.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

So when you unboxed the machine the lock bar yellow handle was like that? Or did it get like that after you removed the lock down bar/lifted the playfield for the first time?

#223 7 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

So when you unboxed the machine the lock bar yellow handle was like that? Or did it get like that after you removed the lock down bar/lifted the playfield for the first time?

That was minutes into sliding the game out...

I didn't even rationalize how peculiar the placement of the yellow handle was at that point. Just my second pinball game, and bringing it in, I had it catch and lock down on my legs while taking it up my porch steps. So.....my head was all over the place.

Fortunately, my friend and I were taking many, many photos of the unboxing and subsequent steps.

(A photo my friend took.)

image000000_11 (resized).jpg
#224 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

That was minutes into sliding the game out...
I didn't even rationalize how peculiar the placement of the yellow handle was at that point. Just my second pinball game, and bringing it in, I had it catch and lock down on my legs while taking it up my porch steps. So.....my head was all over the place.
Fortunately, my friend and I were taking many, many photos of the unboxing and subsequent steps.
(A photo my friend took.)
[quoted image]

That’s nuts! Out of all the issues this machine has, yours has been the one I’ve been following the most.

So pretty much the lock down bar wasn’t secured when you unboxed the game correct?

The part I don’t get is how (I assume) your playfield hooks were seated on the receiver holes when you unboxed the game and then all of the sudden they would not go in? Can you pls explain this part?

#225 7 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

That’s nuts! Out of all the issues these machine has, yours has been the one I’ve been following the most.
So pretty much the lock down bar wasn’t secured when you unboxed the game correct?
The part I don’t get is how (I assume) your playfield hooks were seated on the receiver holes when you unboxed the game and then all of the sudden they would not go in? Can you pls explain this part?

Correct and correct.

When I first lifted the playfield, it was wedged in really tight. It took a very firm grip and pull to lift it. I've got it seated better now, and it takes much less effort.

I got it seated one time after, and that was after two hours of trying to move the looms, and shifting the playfield, and trying to find answers on Pinside.

After that I couldn't get it reseated, and left the glass off for a day or two, and then finally got it back in when someone recommend shifting the receiver from right to left. Then at that point, shifting the receiver up as much as I could, days later, allowed the lockdown bar mechanism to latch and lock together. The bar's teeth were hitting the locking bar, rather than sliding in and gripping it.

Been a long road, and a learning process. That's for sure! I wish my understanding of all of this didn't come fr hours and hours of frustration, trial and error, and asking questions of very helpful people. But that's life, and at least I can diagnose and help others now with what I've learned.

Thank you for your interest in my dilemma, and if you have any further questions, feel free to ask.

#226 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Correct and correct.
When I first lifted the playfield, it was wedged in really tight. It took a very firm grip and pull to lift it. I've got it seated better now, and it takes much less effort.
I got it seated one time after, and that was after two hours of trying to move the looms, and shifting the playfield, and trying to find answers on Pinside.
After that I couldn't get it reseated, and left the glass off for a day or two, and then finally got it back in when someone recommend shifting the receiver from right to left. Then at that point, shifting the receiver up as much as I could, days later, allowed the lockdown bar mechanism to latch and lock together. The bar's teeth were hitting the locking bar, rather than sliding in and gripping it.
Been a long road, and a learning process. That's for sure! I wish my understanding of all of this didn't come fr hours and hours of frustration, trial and error, and asking questions of very helpful people. But that's life, and at least I can diagnose and help others now with what I've learned.
Thank you for your interest in my dilemma, and if you have any further questions, feel free to ask.

Wowzers!

You may want to consider felting the exposed wood where that lockbar is. That guy that did the BP removal does this to all his games and I think it looks great and makes for the glass sliding much easier.

Just a thought!

Hope you're playing soon!! or already playing...

#227 7 months ago

Installing the Cliffy kit. Can someone shed some light on where this protector goes? Thanks

IMG_3582 (resized).JPG
#228 7 months ago
Quoted from rj_tenn:

Installing the Cliffy kit. Can someone shed some light on where this protector goes? Thanks[quoted image]

The Depths?

#229 7 months ago
Quoted from rj_tenn:

Installing the Cliffy kit. Can someone shed some light on where this protector goes? Thanks[quoted image]

It clips on to the hole on the far left at The Depths. You install it from the top side, no disassembly required.

#230 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Wowzers!
You may want to consider felting the exposed wood where that lockbar is. That guy that did the BP removal does this to all his games and I think it looks great and makes for the glass sliding much easier.
Just a thought!
Hope you're playing soon!! or already playing...

Oooh! Do you have a picture of this?

#231 7 months ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

Oooh! Do you have a picture of this?

Kinda. I can provide a still image from the video.

I’ll link the video and note the time he talks about it.

I’ll provide a link for what I chose as well.

Just not home atm.

#232 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

It clips on to the hole on the far left at The Depths. You install it from the top side, no disassembly required.

Thank you!!

#233 7 months ago

I just installed the disc quieting kit; need to play some games to make a better determination, but I like it so far.

It took about as long as I thought, BUT i did ream out the holes of the metal disc support bracket to move my map mech slightly to the left; I was able to get it centered perfectly now, I just need to see if it now slowly moves over time (that would really surprise me, but hey, I guess it could happen).

#234 7 months ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

I just installed the disc quieting kit; need to play some games to make a better determination, but I like it so far.
It took about as long as I thought, BUT i did ream out the holes of the metal disc support bracket to move my map mech slightly to the left; I was able to get it centered perfectly now, I just need to see if it now slowly moves over time (that would really surprise me, but hey, I guess it could happen).

Quoted from BC_Gambit:

I just installed the disc quieting kit; need to play some games to make a better determination, but I like it so far.
It took about as long as I thought, BUT i did ream out the holes of the metal disc support bracket to move my map mech slightly to the left; I was able to get it centered perfectly now, I just need to see if it now slowly moves over time (that would really surprise me, but hey, I guess it could happen).

How long did it take approx?

#235 7 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

How long did it take approx?

Around 2.5 to 3 hours, but I was taking my time. AND that included me getting everything perectly set up and ready to go, then realizing that the Motor gear was installed too high and was binding against the playfield; so I got to uninstall the mech again, adjust the gear again, then reinstall, recenter and relevel again

#236 7 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

How long did it take approx?

When I did mine it took maybe 15 minutes. It's a pretty easy install.

#237 7 months ago

Getting our POTC dialed in and noticed our flipper power is drastically lower than those seen on stream. Did anyone adjust their flipper power? I am thinking this might also help with shots into the chest. Thanks for the help.

#238 7 months ago
Quoted from Lazar:

Getting our POTC dialed in and noticed our flipper power is drastically lower than those seen on stream. Did anyone adjust their flipper power? I am thinking this might also help with shots into the chest. Thanks for the help.

Mine are set to default - check yours against that (green is default.)

Also check leveling. Top of the bubble should be on the second line from the bottom.

#239 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Mine are set to default - check yours against that (green is default.)
Also check leveling. Top of the bubble should be on the second line from the bottom.

Loose flipper ... =P

#240 7 months ago

Okay, so following up on the screw making a bulge in the bottom of the Black Pearl and tearing the sticker.

DO NOT do the fix I did with the flatter screw top to stop the pressure on the underside of the BP ramp that's tearing the sticker!

It's become clear the BP ramp is a terrible design. There is no support on the left side of the ramp to hold it up. The screw bump and edge of the partial sling cover IS the support. Nevermind that it's tearing the ramp sticker underneath. The upshot of the change I made is the ramp now sags about 3mm to the left, which has the effect of dragging on the ship and causing slow balls to get stuck on the gate (because there's not enough of an angle to direct it to the right and down).

So I guess tomorrow I will work on designing a 3D printed support for the left side of the ramp that screws onto the back of the sling cover to gently support the ramp in a much better way.

#241 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Okay, so following up on the screw making a bulge in the bottom of the Black Pearl and tearing the sticker.
DO NOT do the fix I did with the flatter screw top to stop the pressure on the underside of the BP ramp that's tearing the sticker!
It's become clear the BP ramp is a terrible design. There is no support on the left side of the ramp to hold it up. The screw bump and edge of the partial sling cover IS the support. Nevermind that it's tearing the ramp sticker underneath. The upshot of the change I made is the ramp now sags about 3mm to the left, which has the effect of dragging on the ship and causing slow balls to get stuck on the gate (because there's not enough of an angle to direct it to the right and down).
So I guess tomorrow I will work on designing a 3D printed support for the left side of the ramp that screws onto the back of the sling cover to gently support the ramp in a much better way.

Perfect! Please keep us posted, Thanks for doing this!

#242 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Okay, so following up on the screw making a bulge in the bottom of the Black Pearl and tearing the sticker.
DO NOT do the fix I did with the flatter screw top to stop the pressure on the underside of the BP ramp that's tearing the sticker!
It's become clear the BP ramp is a terrible design. There is no support on the left side of the ramp to hold it up. The screw bump and edge of the partial sling cover IS the support. Nevermind that it's tearing the ramp sticker underneath. The upshot of the change I made is the ramp now sags about 3mm to the left, which has the effect of dragging on the ship and causing slow balls to get stuck on the gate (because there's not enough of an angle to direct it to the right and down).
So I guess tomorrow I will work on designing a 3D printed support for the left side of the ramp that screws onto the back of the sling cover to gently support the ramp in a much better way.

Just stick a clear plastic cabinet bumper on top of the screw. Solves the sticker tearing -and- ensures the ramp has the right lean.

#243 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Kinda. I can provide a still image from the video.
I’ll link the video and note the time he talks about it.
I’ll provide a link for what I chose as well.
Just not home atm.

Thanks, look forward to it

#244 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Just stick a clear plastic cabinet bumper on top of the screw. Solves the sticker tearing -and- ensures the ramp has the right lean.

Do you mean like the ones that wiggle onto posts? I had am extra given to me in my goodie bag.

#245 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Do you mean like the ones that wiggle onto posts? I had am extra given to me in my goodie bag.

Like the one on the man overboard part or on the tortuga kickout

#246 7 months ago

Ya I just took a piece of door insulating foam and cut a small piece to cover the screw. And I agree the pearl ramp is a horrible design. Just waiting for the day the bottom 2 screws strip out.

#247 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

Like the one on the man overboard part or on the tortuga kickout

Like this chubby lil donut fellar?

Which screw is the issue exactly? I'm assuming the one on the bottom of that plastic. (The right in the photo.)

20190420_125439 (resized).jpg20190420_125544 (resized).jpg
#248 7 months ago

Man, it's amazing what having the right tools will do, oh so easily! This wanker on a post held me up on my Tom Cliffy install the other night. One simple ebay purchase, days later, then just two seconds and WOOOHOOO!!!

Thanks for the info, as always folks!

20190420_124956 (resized).jpg
#249 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Just stick a clear plastic cabinet bumper on top of the screw. Solves the sticker tearing -and- ensures the ramp has the right lean.

Probably okay in a pinch, but not a good long-term solution. I'm going to make a support in that fastens to the top screw and supports the width of the ramp bottom instead of concentrating all the force into one small contact point.

#250 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Probably okay in a pinch, but not a good long-term solution. I'm going to make a support in that fastens to the top screw and supports the width of the ramp bottom instead of concentrating all the force into one small contact point.

Ya I was thinking the same. Prolly only take 10 min to design and print one

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