(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

1 year ago



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There are 3318 posts in this topic. You are on page 59 of 67.
#2901 8 months ago
Quoted from swampy:

Hey guys. Didn't see this fault listed so thought I would mention it here. POTC LE about 70 plays old (so basically new!). After several games the upper left flipper was turning sluggish and was virtually unusable. After inspecting the mech I noticed an above average amount of free play in the mounted coil and the flipper pawl. I also found a cracked coil sleeve, and the sleeve measured at approximately 1-7/8 inches. According to manual (if I'm reading it correctly) it should be a 2-3/16 length sleeve (the same as the lower flippers). Can anybody else confirm this?
Anyway I've rebuilt the mech with a new longer sleeve and flipper pawl (other one was also sloppy with excessive free play). The flipper now seems much more free to move by hand (it wasn't before). I'll write another update after a few test games. Cheers.

Yes, manual page C-13 confirms 2-3/16" sleeve, and I remember when I changed the sleeve on that one it was the same length as the main flippers

#2902 8 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Yes, manual page C-13 confirms 2-3/16" sleeve, and I remember when I changed the sleeve on that one it was the same length as the main flippers

Thanks for that. So it was definitely the wrong length sleeve in there. I've put it all back together with the correct sleeve and so far so good......Might be worth checking your games POTC owners.

#2903 8 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Here's link to a post I made earlier about an idea I'm going to try on my machine for the same issue. I think the optos at the entrance to the inner orbit do not have a ball guide opening or anything else in front of them to focus the light beam, so that means light from the opto that is near the surface of the playfield where the ball is very narrow isn't blocked long enough to trigger the switch when the ball goes through it fast. The idea is to put tape across the lower 1/3 to 1/2 of the opto so the lower part of the light beam is always blocked by the tape and the upper part of the light beam (where the ball is wider) will still be blocked for a longer time when the ball crosses it fast, so the switch will register closed.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/56#post-5555785

Today after starting OST wizard mode with 4 consecutive loop shots and the machine telling me I still had 19 left to hit, I finally went after the inner loop entry optos and did the tape fix. Huge difference. All loops are registering now. I had the game on in switch test while I did it so I could push the limit on how much I could cover up each opto. Here’s a pic of the transmitter opto after applying tape. I did the same to the receiver.

E6864017-03FE-4ACB-B014-91075C63747E (resized).jpeg
#2904 8 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Today after starting OST wizard mode with 4 consecutive loop shots and the machine telling me I still had 19 left to hit, I finally went after the inner loop entry optos and did the tape fix. Huge difference. All loops are registering now. I had the game on in switch test while I did it so I could push the limit on how much I could cover up each opto. Here’s a pic of the transmitter opto after applying tape. I did the same to the receiver.[quoted image]

Does the BP have to be removed to do this fix?

#2905 8 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Does the BP have to be removed to do this fix?

I removed it to do it. It could be possible to do it without removing it but I didn’t think it would be easy and since I figured it was going to take some taping and re-taping to get the most coverage I could without having the opto blocked I took the Pearl off to do it. Still a bit tricky to get at the transmitter under the guide rail but it was manageable especially with a helper. I removed the star map plastic also to make it easier to get at the receiver behind the map hole.

#2906 8 months ago

Just picked up my new (to me) JJPOTC LE. Very excited! It's indeed a great game.
The topper screws were missing and I'm not sure what I should use to attach it. Could anyone share with me what screws are used?

Thanks...

#2907 8 months ago

Page C-4 and page C-5 item #32 in the manual.

If you need a manual, you can download it from jerseyjackpinball.com under Support under Downloads under Pirates.

LTG : )

#2908 8 months ago
Quoted from Tkaye:

Just picked up my new (to me) JJPOTC LE. Very excited! It's indeed a great game.
The topper screws were missing and I'm not sure what I should use to attach it. Could anyone share with me what screws are used?
Thanks...

I had the same issue. well not the same... my came from the factory like that.

#2909 8 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Today after starting OST wizard mode with 4 consecutive loop shots and the machine telling me I still had 19 left to hit, I finally went after the inner loop entry optos and did the tape fix. Huge difference. All loops are registering now. I had the game on in switch test while I did it so I could push the limit on how much I could cover up each opto. Here’s a pic of the transmitter opto after applying tape. I did the same to the receiver.[quoted image]

Thanks for mentioning this, I was noticing the same issue. On the back of the play-field there is a U shaped bracket held by 2 screws, I removed and taped both opto's half way as you described and is working much better...

#2910 8 months ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

Thanks for mentioning this, I was noticing the same issue. On the back of the play-field there is a U shaped bracket held by 2 screws, I removed and taped both opto's half way as you described and is working much better...

LOL, well that would have been an easier way for me to do it! I needed to clean and make a few adjustments under the Pearl anyway so I'm glad I removed it, but I hadn't thought about just removing that bracket. Definitely would be quicker and easier that way.

Also, I noticed last night the entry to the right orbit seems to not register sometimes. Looks like similar opto set up as the inner loop entry so I'm going to tape those also.

#2911 8 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

LOL, well that would have been an easier way for me to do it! I needed to clean and make a few adjustments under the Pearl anyway so I'm glad I removed it, but I hadn't thought about just removing that bracket. Definitely would be quicker and easier that way.
Also, I noticed last night the entry to the right orbit seems to not register sometimes. Looks like similar opto set up as the inner loop entry so I'm going to tape those also.

The times I have had the Pearl off I did the same. Always good to check all wires underneath it as well as loose bolts, had one on the bottom of the cabinet and it came from one of the flippers. I'll keep an eye on the orbit, good call.

#2912 8 months ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

Thanks for mentioning this, I was noticing the same issue. On the back of the play-field there is a U shaped bracket held by 2 screws, I removed and taped both opto's half way as you described and is working much better...

So there’s no need to remove the BP to do this fix?

#2913 8 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

So there’s no need to remove the BP to do this fix?

I picture of said bracket would be awesome.

#2914 8 months ago
Quoted from Wheel_Jack:

I picture of said bracket would be awesome.

Here’s a picture of the bracket holding the inner loop entry optos. It’s the thin metal strip running across the bottom of the playfield. There’s an opto on each end of it.

8F70A134-9013-412B-B195-1C6A94E222B2 (resized).jpeg
#2915 8 months ago

To apply the tape fix to the inner loop opto: just remove two screws below the playfield. Apply tape. Done. No need to remove BP.
Found out after I removed the BP.....

image (resized).jpg
#2916 8 months ago

Forgot about the inner loop opto made. Loops still don’t register 100%. Here we go again.

#2917 8 months ago
Quoted from Maurice:

Forgot about the inner loop opto made. Loops still don’t register 100%. Here we go again.

Inner loop made?

#2918 8 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Inner loop made?

There are two sets of optos for the inner loop shot. One set is for the switch called inner loop enter and another set is for the switch called inner loop made.

#2919 8 months ago

I guess I got lucky, my inner loops appear to register properly as is. Good to know about the workaround though if I do notice a problem (at really_ fast loop speeds for example.)

#2920 8 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

There are two sets of optos for the inner loop shot. One set is for the switch called inner loop enter and another set is for the switch called inner loop made.

So what kind of tape is used for this? Electrical tape? Do you cover the bottom half of the opto? Why does covering half of the opto help it ‘see’ the ball better?

#2921 8 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

So what kind of tape is used for this? Electrical tape? Do you cover the bottom half of the opto? Why does covering half of the opto help it ‘see’ the ball better?

I used black electrical tape. Needs to be tape that will block light. I used black so it isn't noticeable. Yes, cover the bottom half of the opto but you have to leave enough unblocked so it doesn't trigger the switch when a ball isn't there.

The switch registers when the light going from the transmitter to the receiver is blocked. That happens when the ball crosses between the two and blocks the light beam. If some of that light beam from the transmitter is low to the playfield so that it's only crossed by the small/narrow point of the ball that's touching the playfield surface, then the beam isn't blocked enough for a fast shot to register. On a fast shot the receiver is still getting enough of a signal from that lower part of the beam to think it was never blocked. If you tape the lower part of the receiver and/or transmitter, then the part of the light beam lower to the playfield is already blocked but there's still part of the light beam unblocked higher up (probably 1/4 to 1/2 inch) above the playfield where the wider part of the ball will cross it. So now on a fast shot the lower part of the beam is already blocked by the tape and the upper part of the beam gets blocked longer by the wide upper part of the ball, so the switch senses that the beam was broken by a ball passing by.

A good way to test it is to go into the switch test matrix and place a ball between the two optos so the switch is registering. Then slowly lift the ball straight up off the playfield. If you can only just BARELY lift the ball off the surface of the playfield before the switch no longer registers then that means the beam from the opto is low along the playfield and the narrow point of the ball probably won't break the beam long enough for a shot to register. After the tape fix you can lift the ball noticeably higher off the playfield before the switch goes back to not registering a ball there.

#2922 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I guess I got lucky, my inner loops appear to register properly as is. Good to know about the workaround though if I do notice a problem (at really_ fast loop speeds for example.)

Yep, I never would have known or thought about it if not for the issue popping up on JP. I never had any idea or thought that my POTC loops weren't registering until that put it on my radar, and I then noticed it right away on my POTC. Just took a long, long time for me to finally take time to do the fix. The breaking point was that wizard mode telling me I had only hit one loop when I knew I'd hit 4. In the last couple days playing it's been amazing how much more gold I'm getting and how much quicker I'm qualifying OST multiball. Also played the OST wizard mode again and ripped a few fast 3-loop shots off and it counted them correctly, so that was good confirmation too.

#2923 8 months ago

I have had a couple balls end up under the bp. Happened both times from a ball being flipped from the bayou flipper. Only happened twice over a year but maybe I could stop it altogether with a small angle above the map targets?

Or do people find the ball jumps up whilst in the inner loop. I have noticed the ball is stuck to the right of the metal bracket near the wire manifold.

Has anyone Determined how balls get stuck under the black pearl and whether a small angle acting as a shield would stop the ball getting stuck. Of course it has to be large enough to deflect a ball and small enough to fit under the rocking pearl.

B8E3FB09-6BCC-48BE-8C91-6C12C385E4FF (resized).jpeg
#2924 8 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I have had a couple balls end up under the bp. Happened both times from a ball being flipped from the bayou flipper. Only happened twice over a year but maybe I could stop it altogether with a small angle above the map targets?
Or do people find the ball jumps up whilst in the inner loop. I have noticed the ball is stuck to the right of the metal bracket near the wire manifold.
Has anyone Determined how balls get stuck under the black pearl and whether a small angle acting as a shield would stop the ball getting stuck. Of course it has to be large enough to deflect a ball and small enough to fit under the rocking pearl.[quoted image]

I put a few clear cabinet bumpers under the Pearl to stop that. You should consider putting some wire loom on that Pearl harness - one of my machines rubbed raw there and shorted out against the flipper coil.

#2925 8 months ago

I guess my problem didn’t get fixed all the way after all. I had a blown fuse J114 (see photo) and just assumed that if I replace the fuse it would fix the problem. I replaced the fuse and it burns immediately, meaning I’ve got a short somewhere. this occurred after I was attempting to fix a stadium light that keeps going off.

Prior to everything going out, I had found that if I wiggle the Lower left stadium light it would turn back on. What confuses the issue is the fact that the pearl has been intermittently stopping its motion even prior to the light issue. So, now I have taken out the LEDS from the stadium lights and inspected, and don’t see anything wrong. I know that that fuse is on the same line as the Spinning barrel pop bumper and the pearl motion. I do not have the pop bumper barrel spinning and I do not have any pearl motion.

Not sure where to start looking from here, and could use some advice before I go to the enormous pains of taking off the pearl to look for a short underneath there.

Also I’ve made a grave mistake and lost LTG’s phone number.

Appreciate.

FFC3A08F-FED3-441F-906E-C407F6912C41 (resized).jpeg
#2926 8 months ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

Not sure where to start looking from here,

I'd check the bridge rectifier for that fuse to see if it's shorted. Did you mean F714 ? Page D-91 in the manual takes out a bunch of 12 volt stuff.

I'll PM you my number.

LTG : )

#2927 8 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd check the bridge rectifier for that fuse to see if it's shorted. Did you mean F714 ? Page D-91 in the manual takes out a bunch of 12 volt stuff.
I'll PM you my number.
LTG : )

Yes, I meant F714.

#2928 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I put a few clear cabinet bumpers under the Pearl to stop that. You should consider putting some wire loom on that Pearl harness - one of my machines rubbed raw there and shorted out against the flipper coil.

Thanks. I have put the loom off since mine seemed ok. I will put some of the mesh on as I am concerned the rib stuff may restrict movement (probably doesn’t, but will make me sleep better).

Have you got a pic of where you used the bumpers and their size?

Thanks again.

#2929 8 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Thanks. I have put the loom off since mine seemed ok. I will put some of the mesh on as I am concerned the rib stuff may restrict movement (probably doesn’t, but will make me sleep better).
Have you got a pic of where you used the bumpers and their size?
Thanks again.

No, as I’m not sure I have the “final” position yet. I put three of them in a circle around the north side of the hole. Still playing with it.

#2930 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

No, as I’m not sure I have the “final” position yet. I put three of them in a circle around the north side of the hole. Still playing with it.

So you think it skips up under there whilst going around the inner loop rather than a direct hit off the flipper?

I must admit I thought the last time it did that the ball had entered the loop. Problem is it is so rare hard to monitor.

#2931 8 months ago

Does the BP always sway at the same speed or does the speed change depending on what’s going on in the game?

#2932 8 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Does the BP always sway at the same speed or does the speed change depending on what’s going on in the game?

It changes per mode

#2933 8 months ago

Posted in the owners thread but should probably have posted here.
My audio keeps going out. Any idea of which specific cables to look at possible loose connections?

#2934 8 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Posted in the owners thread but should probably have posted here.
My audio keeps going out. Any idea of which specific cables to look at possible loose connections?

Make sure the cable is well seated in the green port in the motherboard. Follow it along the right to the square noise filter and make sure it's secure there also.

#2935 8 months ago

While installing the chest mod (which is great for those still on the fence about getting it) and cleaning the playfield, I noticed that my map hole cliffy is coming up a bit along with some of the mylar. Any simple remedies on how to get it to stick back down?

IMG_2954 (resized).JPG
#2936 8 months ago
Quoted from Galooch:

While installing the chest mod (which is great for those still on the fence about getting it) and cleaning the playfield, I noticed that my map hole cliffy is coming up a bit along with some of the mylar. Any simple remedies on how to get it to stick back down?
[quoted image]

The mylar in that area commonly bubbles up. I removed mine and cleaned the playfield prior to installing the cliffy.

I wonder if you could buy just the map hole part and remove, remove mylar, clean and reapply?

#2937 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Make sure the cable is well seated in the green port in the motherboard. Follow it along the right to the square noise filter and make sure it's secure there also.

Plug seems good. Should I take the silver box cover off and see where that other end of the cable plugs in?

*If the game is sitting idle waiting for ball launch, the sound is fine. It's only until ball is in play and hitting things that the audio blips out.

20200502_074517 (resized).jpg
#2938 8 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Plug seems good. Should I take the silver box cover off and see where that other end of the cable plugs in?
*If the game is sitting idle waiting for ball launch, the sound is fine. It's only until ball is in play and hitting things that the audio blips out.[quoted image]

No need to follow the port, it's soldered into the motherboard. Follow the cable and make sure it's seated well in the ground loop isolator (square box on the right side)

#2939 8 months ago
Quoted from Galooch:

While installing the chest mod (which is great for those still on the fence about getting it) and cleaning the playfield, I noticed that my map hole cliffy is coming up a bit along with some of the mylar. Any simple remedies on how to get it to stick back down?
[quoted image]

This same exact thing just happened on mine. I noticed it when I removed the Pearl last week to tape the opto next to the Cliffy. It does seem to be the mylar underneath causing the issue. I removed the cliffy and snipped the mylar some more. Then I reshaped a slight bend that had formed in the tab on the cliffy that sits in the map hole. That bend was causing the cliffy to not lay flat when I set it back down for a test fit. Once I got the cliffy shaped to lay flat again I put thin (but very sticky) double sided tape on the underside of the cliffy all along the front and side edges of it. I just used an x-acto blade to trim the tape around the edges of the cliffy. It worked great so it's laying completely flat and secure again.

#2940 8 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

This same exact thing just happened on mine. I noticed it when I removed the Pearl last week to tape the opto next to the Cliffy. It does seem to be the mylar underneath causing the issue. I removed the cliffy and snipped the mylar some more. Then I reshaped a slight bend that had formed in the tab on the cliffy that sits in the map hole. That bend was causing the cliffy to not lay flat when I set it back down for a test fit. Once I got the cliffy shaped to lay flat again I put thin (but very sticky) double sided tape on the underside of the cliffy all along the front and side edges of it. I just used an x-acto blade to trim the tape around the edges of the cliffy. It worked great so it's laying completely flat and secure again.

Thanks. I think I'll give that a try soon. When you took the cliffy and mylar off, did it peel any of the artwork with it? Is there a best practice to safely remove mylar?

#2941 8 months ago
Quoted from Galooch:

Thanks. I think I'll give that a try soon. When you took the cliffy and mylar off, did it peel any of the artwork with it? Is there a best practice to safely remove mylar?

Mine came off easily. I cleaned the adhesive off with naptha. Don’t stress too much as the cliffy covers all.

#2942 8 months ago
Quoted from Galooch:

Thanks. I think I'll give that a try soon. When you took the cliffy and mylar off, did it peel any of the artwork with it? Is there a best practice to safely remove mylar?

I didn't take the mylar off. I just snipped it where it was folded up so it would lay down flat better under the right hand side of the cliffy. So no artwork came up on mine.

#2943 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

No need to follow the port, it's soldered into the motherboard. Follow the cable and make sure it's seated well in the ground loop isolator (square box on the right side)

All is connected well on that cable. Restated the connections.
No dice.

#2944 8 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

All is connected well on that cable. Restated the connections.
No dice.

I had a problem with my audio with pops and crackles. Unplugging the headphone connection on the motherboard fixed it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/35#post-5066325

#2945 8 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I had a problem with my audio with pops and crackles. Unplugging the headphone connection on the motherboard fixed it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/35#post-5066325

Huh. So it didn't work if you unplugged it by the coin door?
I'll give it a try tomorrow. Too many beers tonight.

#2946 8 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I had a problem with my audio with pops and crackles. Unplugging the headphone connection on the motherboard fixed it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/35#post-5066325

Unplugged the headphone cable. Issue is still there.

#2947 8 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Unplugged the headphone cable. Issue is still there.

So the way you described the issue, the sound comes and goes in response to impact and vibration, right?
To me that implies a physical connection issue somewhere.

is the connection to the audio amp secure? (Left board inside the metal box in the backbox)

#2948 8 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Unplugged the headphone cable. Issue is still there.

Also, does bypassing the ground loop isolator change the behavior at all? (Maybe it itself is bad?)

#2949 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Also, does bypassing the ground loop isolator change the behavior at all? (Maybe it itself is bad?)

Tried bypassing ground loop and had no audio.

#2950 8 months ago

I pulled the blue/black wire out of the headphone jack like the video and same issue.

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