(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

11 months ago



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#2751 6 days ago
Quoted from Tigetoo:

Ok looking for some help? Detailed picture of the black pearl underneath wiring. Have agree broken wires. 2 slack on the left/center and looks to go to the left flipper switch. But the one I need help on is the green wire that is broke off. Posting pics here Mabey’s someone cane get me to solution faster.
Also bracket looks to be missing screw. Most concerning is I lost the left targets and left load cannon switch?
Thanks in advance.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Sounds like the switches out on yours are #9, 10, and 12. See page C152 in the manual where Column 2 shows the switches connected by the green brown wire. They are all connected together by segments of the green/brown wire that broke on yours. So if the wire breaks off a switch that is early in that chain, then all three targets will be out.

This same problem has happened to mine and many other's machines. If you key word search "green brown" in the main club thread or this thread you'll see a lot of results for this issue. It's a straightforward fix if you're able to pull the Black Pearl off and re-solder the green brown wire to the target it broke off from. I'd guess that when you pull the Black Pearl off you'll be able to see where the green wire broke off one of those switches.

#2752 6 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

SUCCESS! Black Pearl is Rockin' (literally!)
As with many pinball issues I have trouble-shot over the years the actual fix for a problem was very easy. It is the diagnosis that is so frustrating.
So, in the end I simply had broken wires at the Black Pearl Rocker Motor. I gently cut back the chewed-up heat shrink and even before I had got finished the wires simply popped off. Both the 12V and the ground wire had somehow been severed right where the wire came out of the wire jacket.
Here is a photo of the new wire install (before shrink heating the tubing which I did do) and a short video of the working BP.
Thank you to everyone for your help, especially @yelobird.
Couple of take home points if anyone else has to troubleshoot the rocker motor or even the spinning disc:
1. Both use the same motor relay board. You can switch the boards to make sure you don't have a bad board
2. You can jump the 12V power from one mech to the other mech to make sure you don't have a bad motor
3. Don't ever forget that connections can break. I wish I would have thought of that earlier and inspected the motor earlier in my diagnostic process.
Video:
Photo:[quoted image]

CONGRATS! Job well done now you can get back to plundering the seas ARghhhhh. Trouble shooting for some is not a pleasurable experience but it can be gratifying when you solve the puzzle. I have always found the best starting points of diagnosis always yield the best result. 1 What was the last thing I did, and 2 What does here does not look normal in this picture (bent part, frayed wire, pinched whatever, etc) and start from there. So glad you not only fixed it but maintained your coarse without giving up in frustration to solve the puzzle. Have a Piratey week of fun!!!!

#2753 6 days ago

Hi all thanks for your valuable advice, i m new owner I searched the forum but I can't find answers to my problem i hope you can help me. I have a frequent and annoying problem with a ball lost during multiball which forces me to stop the game and remove the glass. the subway of the black pearl vuk ONLY during multiball does not allow the ball to reach the kicker to exit, if I raise up the play Field i feel the ball slide towards the kicker and then exit ... how can I solve? It is possible that some balls have become magnetized ? About 200 played. Thank you very much . I am attaching a short video ‍☠️‍☠️

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0yNxDRUXcLiQ0oV1tyYqRBV1A#Rocca_Priora

#2754 6 days ago
Quoted from Spaghetti73:

Hi all thanks for your valuable advice, i m new owner I searched the forum but I can't find answers to my problem i hope you can help me. I have a frequent and annoying problem with a ball lost during multiball which forces me to stop the game and remove the glass. the subway of the black pearl vuk ONLY during multiball does not allow the ball to reach the kicker to exit, if I raise up the play Field i feel the ball slide towards the kicker and then exit ... how can I solve? It is possible that some balls have become magnetized ? About 200 played. Thank you very much . I am attaching a short video ‍☠️‍☠️
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0yNxDRUXcLiQ0oV1tyYqRBV1A#Rocca_Priora

Search the main POTC thread for "subway fix" or "ace hardware." You need a post by the plastic opening.

#2755 6 days ago
Quoted from Spaghetti73:

Hi all thanks for your valuable advice, i m new owner I searched the forum but I can't find answers to my problem i hope you can help me. I have a frequent and annoying problem with a ball lost during multiball which forces me to stop the game and remove the glass. the subway of the black pearl vuk ONLY during multiball does not allow the ball to reach the kicker to exit, if I raise up the play Field i feel the ball slide towards the kicker and then exit ... how can I solve? It is possible that some balls have become magnetized ? About 200 played. Thank you very much . I am attaching a short video ‍☠️‍☠️
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0yNxDRUXcLiQ0oV1tyYqRBV1A#Rocca_Priora

I'll try to describe but I know there are pics in this thread. There is a plastic trough with a long flap that feeds the VUK. I have fixed a few where the plastic flap is Up a bit to high to feed. Remove plastic and using a hair dryer apply a Slow heat to the flat and bend it down. Done correctly it should touch the metal VUK trough. Also it is Critical that your game slope side to side and front to back is correct. Good luck.

#2756 6 days ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Search the main POTC thread for "subway fix" or "ace hardware." You need a post by the plastic opening.

I think thats for the other ship trough not certain though. Dauntless trough.

#2757 6 days ago
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#2758 6 days ago
Quoted from Tigetoo:

Detailed picture of the black pearl underneath wiring.

Maybe this will help. Ignore red circle, that was for something else.

Black wires are for your EOS switch.

Green wire - look at other stand up targets in your game. White wire/black end of diode to one lug, green wire to one lug, silver band end of diode to one lug. Same pattern, every switch.

LTG : )

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#2759 6 days ago
Quoted from Spaghetti73:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thats the one. Remove and mend if needed the Clear plastic trough. When removed you will see the long flap that is sometimes bowed up holding the ball. Also (again) you need to know the pitch of your playfield. As the ball is trying to roll to the Back of the playfield it will have trouble if your playfield is set to 8 degrees pitch or more. I am at 7.3 ish and it works fine. Good luck.

#2760 5 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Thats the one. Remove and mend if needed the Clear plastic trough. When removed you will see the long flap that is sometimes bowed up holding the ball. Also (again) you need to know the pitch of your playfield. As the ball is trying to roll to the Back of the playfield it will have trouble if your playfield is set to 8 degrees pitch or more. I am at 7.3 ish and it works fine. Good luck.

I try in an hour or so thank you very much. ps I'm looking forward to receiving your fantastic mods

#2761 5 days ago

Hahahaha what a change !! I played at least 12 multiballs, dice liars, 6666666, one wizard mode .... I set the inclination level slightly below the third notch ... very, very, very, very happy ...my wife too.

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#2762 5 days ago
Quoted from Spaghetti73:

Hahahaha what a change !! I played at least 12 multiballs, dice liars, 6666666, one wizard mode .... I set the inclination level slightly below the third notch ... very, very, very, very happy ...my wife too.[quoted image][quoted image]

Glad to see you happily plundering together again. Have fun!

#2763 5 days ago

So....

My action button isn't registering. The screw is very extended on the button. What concerns me is the contact switch, in the white module, is limp. I bent it some upwards, but it just flops down and lays on the red switch button. I assume it should extend firmly up at a diagonal, versus just resting on the red button/switch.

Any ideas folks..?

#2764 4 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

So....
My action button isn't registering. The screw is very extended on the button. What concerns me is the contact switch, in the white module, is limp. I bent it some upwards, but it just flops down and lays on the red switch button. I assume it should extend firmly up at a diagonal, versus just resting on the red button/switch.
Any ideas folks..?

Is the switch working if you take the lockdown bar off and press it with your finger? I think the metal strip should just lay on the switch button. I don't think it should come up at an angle.

#2765 4 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

So....
My action button isn't registering. The screw is very extended on the button. What concerns me is the contact switch, in the white module, is limp. I bent it some upwards, but it just flops down and lays on the red switch button. I assume it should extend firmly up at a diagonal, versus just resting on the red button/switch.
Any ideas folks..?

The blade setup is a fairly common and simple switch used in all areas of pinball. First make sure the Mini screws going through the stacked blade assembly have not loosened up. Mini Philip’s I believe. Make sure they are snug and the switch is aligned when doing so. Then verify that the gap on the contacts is close but not touching. You may need to pull the bar a few times to adjust that. Good luck.

#2766 4 days ago

I believe there is a two pin connector just under the pf for that switch as well. Don't know if you checked that yet?

#2767 4 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

white module, is limp.

Too much information.

Take the lockdown bar off. Please go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed. Push the arm of the switch. Does it register ? If so the button isn't reaching it. Then adjust the arm or a blob of hot glue on the end of the button where it contacts the switch arm.

If it doesn't work in test. Then check wiring, and then check the switch.

LTG : )

#2768 4 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Too much information.
Take the lockdown bar off. Please go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed. Push the arm of the switch. Does it register ? If so the button isn't reaching it. Then adjust the arm or a blob of hot glue on the end of the button where it contacts the switch arm.
If it doesn't work in test. Then check wiring, and then check the switch.
LTG : )

Tell us how to work on the Limp problem #LTG. Lol

#2770 4 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Tell us how to work on the Limp problem #LTG. Lol

Blue LEDs. Take two before bedtime.

LTG : )

#2771 4 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Blue LEDs. Take two before bedtime.
LTG : )

Ha! And what if the LEDs stay on for longer than 4 hours?

#2772 4 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Ha! And what if the LEDs stay on for longer than 4 hours?

That is what them thar big needles are for. Drain that sucker down.

LTG : )

#2773 4 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Blue LEDs. Take two before bedtime.
LTG : )

Now this... is funny. Damn

#2774 4 days ago

Can someone explain the normal function of the light fuse flap/door thing?

The metal flap on mine in hangs about halfway down in the "closed" position. It will open when hitting the load or cannon standups. I find it weird that the Light Fuse insert will be flashing green like I am supposed to shoot the shot. When the flap is hanging half way like that it blocks the "load" target. I am wondering if that flap is supposed to close all the way.

Also, I have noticed that I get some phantom scoring of about 30 points when hitting my flippers. In test mode I nothing else seems to activate. I've done the "bang on the playfield" trick to see if anything activates but nothing.

Any thoughts?

#2775 4 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Can someone explain the normal function of the light fuse flap/door thing?
The metal flap on mine in hangs about halfway down in the "closed" position. It will open when hitting the load or cannon standups. I find it weird that the Light Fuse insert will be flashing green like I am supposed to shoot the shot. When the flap is hanging half way like that it blocks the "load" target. I am wondering if that flap is supposed to close all the way.
Also, I have noticed that I get some phantom scoring of about 30 points when hitting my flippers. In test mode I nothing else seems to activate. I've done the "bang on the playfield" trick to see if anything activates but nothing.
Any thoughts?

A switch somewhere is gapped too close. Put the game in switch test and cause some vibration, see if you can identify which one.

#2776 4 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Is the switch working if you take the lockdown bar off and press it with your finger? I think the metal strip should just lay on the switch button. I don't think it should come up at an angle.

Oooh, well then that switch part should be good, at least!

Quoted from Yelobird:

The blade setup is a fairly common and simple switch used in all areas of pinball. First make sure the Mini screws going through the stacked blade assembly have not loosened up. Mini Philip’s I believe. Make sure they are snug and the switch is aligned when doing so. Then verify that the gap on the contacts is close but not touching. You may need to pull the bar a few times to adjust that. Good luck.

I thought initially last night I might need to realign that assembly. It was screwed in tight, and I screwed it back in after recognizing that there's no play in it's location, unlike say the shooter rod assembly.

I'm going to have to check all of that out tomorrow, seeing where the button is making contact, when the playfield is up, and lockdown bar in place.

Unfortunately, my lockdown bar assembly is still way off, and the yellow handle can't really clear very well when trying to lock things down. I don't think that'd be part of the problem, but I might need to address that......and my wonky shooter assembly as well. The autoforks are still making contact with the plunger, even though I tried to adjust the assembly the other week. I think I'm going to have to shim the hooks with material underneath, even more...

Quoted from heni1977:

I believe there is a two pin connector just under the pf for that switch as well. Don't know if you checked that yet?

Did not, but definitely will! I wonder if me having to press the door and lock assembly in firmly, may have jostled a connection....

Quoted from LTG:

Too much information.
Take the lockdown bar off. Please go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed. Push the arm of the switch. Does it register ? If so the button isn't reaching it. Then adjust the arm or a blob of hot glue on the end of the button where it contacts the switch arm.
If it doesn't work in test. Then check wiring, and then check the switch.
LTG : )

Will do all of the above tomorrow!

Thanks to everyone that took time to read about my problems, and offered solutions, tech wise and medical wise, haha!!!

#2777 4 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Can someone explain the normal function of the light fuse flap/door thing?
The metal flap on mine in hangs about halfway down in the "closed" position. It will open when hitting the load or cannon standups. I find it weird that the Light Fuse insert will be flashing green like I am supposed to shoot the shot. When the flap is hanging half way like that it blocks the "load" target. I am wondering if that flap is supposed to close all the way.
Also, I have noticed that I get some phantom scoring of about 30 points when hitting my flippers. In test mode I nothing else seems to activate. I've done the "bang on the playfield" trick to see if anything activates but nothing.
Any thoughts?

Normal function of the light fuse & door is that when the Light Fuse arrow is lit the door should be open so the ball can go into the cannon and the door should block access to the cannon otherwise. When you first hit the ball onto the Pearl with Light Fuse already lit then the door won't open until a switch on the Pearl is hit.

When my game came out of the box the door was always completely up, and I didn't even realize there was a door there that was supposed to come down until a long time later when watching a stream of game play. I wasn't able (or didn't want to take the extra time) to adjust it to where it could both fully lower and fully open. I landed on adjusting it somewhere in the middle so that when it's supposed to be open it's up just enough so the ball can pass through into the cannon and when it's supposed to be closed it's down enough to prevent the ball from going in. The corner of my door does hang in front of the Load target a bit when it's down, but it's down far enough so that most times when it's hit the ball pushes the door back and still activates the target. Occasionally the door does cause a missed shot to that Load target when it really should have been a hit though.

#2778 4 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Oooh, well then that switch part should be good, at least!

I thought initially last night I might need to realign that assembly. It was screwed in tight, and I screwed it back in after recognizing that there's no play in it's location, unlike say the shooter rod assembly.
I'm going to have to check all of that out tomorrow, seeing where the button is making contact, when the playfield is up, and lockdown bar in place.
Unfortunately, my lockdown bar assembly is still way off, and the yellow handle can't really clear very well when trying to lock things down. I don't think that'd be part of the problem, but I might need to address that......and my wonky shooter assembly as well. The autoforks are still making contact with the plunger, even though I tried to adjust the assembly the other week. I think I'm going to have to shim the hooks with material underneath, even more...

Did not, but definitely will! I wonder if me having to press the door and lock assembly in firmly, may have jostled a connection....

Will do all of the above tomorrow!
Thanks to everyone that took time to read about my problems, and offered solutions, tech wise and medical wise, haha!!!

Just a suggestion but you might start with figuring out what is restricting the lock bar from closing correctly to start. That lock is what aligns everything. I have personally Never had a single game where I had to shim the Playfield hooks. To me that is simply compounding an error to make New issues. Just my opinion. When you over correct one issue you usually create many new issues.

#2779 4 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Oooh, well then that switch part should be good, at least!

I thought initially last night I might need to realign that assembly. It was screwed in tight, and I screwed it back in after recognizing that there's no play in it's location, unlike say the shooter rod assembly.
I'm going to have to check all of that out tomorrow, seeing where the button is making contact, when the playfield is up, and lockdown bar in place.
Unfortunately, my lockdown bar assembly is still way off, and the yellow handle can't really clear very well when trying to lock things down. I don't think that'd be part of the problem, but I might need to address that......and my wonky shooter assembly as well. The autoforks are still making contact with the plunger, even though I tried to adjust the assembly the other week. I think I'm going to have to shim the hooks with material underneath, even more...

Did not, but definitely will! I wonder if me having to press the door and lock assembly in firmly, may have jostled a connection....

Will do all of the above tomorrow!
Thanks to everyone that took time to read about my problems, and offered solutions, tech wise and medical wise, haha!!!

Also if you lean forward over the glass and look down & backward under the lock bar you can see the button hit the switch so, if you haven't already, you might want to take a look at it that way with the lock bar on so you can see how the button is making contact and whether or not it's pressing the switch.

#2780 4 days ago

Now that going outside isn’t really a thing anymore, I’ve been spending a fair bit of time on Pirates. One issue that I’ve had for a while but never really looked into in depth is that the inner loop under the black pearl from the upper flipper doesn’t register shots around 20% of the time in game, but when I manually roll the ball through the loop in switch test it registers every time. I’m guessing it’s to do with the speed of the ball as it seems to only happen on clean shots - anyone have any suggestions?

On another note, probably 80% of ejects from the depths VUK smoothly come down the P inlane at speed, but the remaining 20% of the time the ball seems to rattle / lose momentum a bit as it comes down the lane and it kind of just dribbles down and just clears the gap on the I lane to make it to the left flipper. It doesn’t ruin the game, but is there is a common adjustment to make the ball feed more reliable?

Lastly - what coil strength settings does everyone use for the lower flippers? Occasionally I have balls fly off the left ramp over towards the black pearl when the diverter lowers, but the shot is perfect when the diverter remains up.

Appreciate any pointers as I now have plenty of time to try to dial things in!

#2781 4 days ago
Quoted from JustLikeMe:

Now that going outside isn’t really a thing anymore, I’ve been spending a fair bit of time on Pirates. One issue that I’ve had for a while but never really looked into in depth is that the inner loop under the black pearl from the upper flipper doesn’t register shots around 20% of the time in game, but when I manually roll the ball through the loop in switch test it registers every time. I’m guessing it’s to do with the speed of the ball as it seems to only happen on clean shots - anyone have any suggestions?
On another note, probably 80% of ejects from the depths VUK smoothly come down the P inlane at speed, but the remaining 20% of the time the ball seems to rattle / lose momentum a bit as it comes down the lane and it kind of just dribbles down and just clears the gap on the I lane to make it to the left flipper. It doesn’t ruin the game, but is there is a common adjustment to make the ball feed more reliable?
Lastly - what coil strength settings does everyone use for the lower flippers? Occasionally I have balls fly off the left ramp over towards the black pearl when the diverter lowers, but the shot is perfect when the diverter remains up.
Appreciate any pointers as I now have plenty of time to try to dial things in!

I've noticed the same thing on my inner loop. There will be times I spin a few times around the inner loop with fast clean shots and I don't hear the sound effect, and if the shots then finish into the gold targets there isn't much gold given. The next time I have the Pearl off I'm going to try the same tape fix used in Jurassic Park (which is a fix adopted from Metallica). You cover the lower half of the opto opening with electrical tape. The idea is that this eliminates the lower part of the beam which would only be broken by the lower (much narrower) part of the ball. On that lower part of the ball the beam isn't broken long enough for a fast shot to register. With the tape on, when the ball travels fast through the loop the lower part of the beam is already broken by the tape blocking it and the upper part of the beam is crossed by the wide part of the ball and the shot registers. It worked on my Jurassic Park and a lot of other people had good success with it on the Jurassic Park orbit (and on the T-Rex ramp but that was mainly due to the ball jumping across the opto at the entrance to the ramp). Might be worth a try.

Here's one post about it the tape fix:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/56#post-5312034

Here's a post I made with a picture of my JP orbit opto with the tape on:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/65#post-5328626

The Depths VUK is pretty flaky. I don't think there's really any one main solution people have had work. For flipper strength, my lower right is at default (25) and my lower left I think is one (maybe two) below default. If you're having air balls off the maelstrom diverter you could try to increase the pitch of your game or lower flipper power. My pitch is 6.5 by the lower flippers, and 7.0 by the upper left flipper (and 7.3 in front of the chest).

#2782 3 days ago

I’m having trouble figuring out my slingshot under the Black Pearl ramp-keeps firing. The leaflets are ok, and switches work fine in the matrix. I’ve tried plugging and unplugging the connector for power(shown), doesn’t produce a sustained fix. Any ideas?

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#2783 3 days ago
Quoted from dts:

The leaflets are ok, and switches work fine in the matrix.

Two leaf blade switches under there, one on each side of kicker - in Tests - Switches - Matrixed - is one stuck closed ? If you bang on playfield does vibration set one or both off ?

Any other switches show on the screen as closed that should be open ?

LTG : )

#2784 3 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Too much information.
Take the lockdown bar off. Please go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed. Push the arm of the switch. Does it register ? If so the button isn't reaching it. Then adjust the arm or a blob of hot glue on the end of the button where it contacts the switch arm.
If it doesn't work in test. Then check wiring, and then check the switch.
LTG : )

I'm hitting the red button directly, switch isn't being triggered....

And I can't see any loose wires at the white module or where the purple and black wire connect towards the start button...

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#2785 3 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

I'm hitting the red button directly, switch isn't being triggered...

Peel back the insulation a bit by the solder joint on the switch lugs. Then go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed , and briefly short those two wires. If it then registers on the screen, you have a broken switch. If not, then you have a break from the switch to the I/O board.

LTG : )

#2786 3 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Peel back the insulation a bit by the solder joint on the switch lugs. Then go to Tests - Switches - Matrixed , and briefly short those two wires. If it then registers on the screen, you have a broken switch. If not, then you have a break from the switch to the I/O board.
LTG : )

So lugs meaning, the purple and black wires feeding directly into the white module?

How do I short them? Power on, or off?

Thanks for the advice!

#2787 3 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

So lugs meaning, the purple and black wires feeding directly into the white module?

Lets call the white module a switch. Peel back a tiny bit of the black shrink wrap on both wires. To expose the ends of the wires.

Quoted from wesman:

How do I short them?

Piece of wire, screw driver, etc.

Quoted from wesman:

Power on, or off?

I'd do it on. Tests - Switches - Matrixed. If off, you might not see anything on the screen when you briefly short them.

LTG : )

#2788 3 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Lets call the white module a switch. Peel back a tiny bit of the black shrink wrap on both wires. To expose the ends of the wires.

Piece of wire, screw driver, etc.

I'd do it on. Tests - Switches - Matrixed. If off, you might not see anything on the screen when you briefly short them.
LTG : )

Okay, stupid question.

So do you mean the already exposed metal contacts going into the "switch"? Or the back end of it, where the insulation is covering the wires feeding away from the "switch"?

And do I touch both contact point at once, as in both exposed wires or one at a time?

#2789 3 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Okay, stupid question.
So do you mean the already exposed metal contacts going into the "switch"? Or the back end of it, where the insulation is covering the wires feeding away from the "switch"?
And do I touch both contact point at once, as in both exposed wires or one at a time?

Quoted from LTG:

Lets call the white module a switch. Peel back a tiny bit of the black shrink wrap on both wires. To expose the ends of the wires.

Piece of wire, screw driver, etc.

I'd do it on. Tests - Switches - Matrixed. If off, you might not see anything on the screen when you briefly short them.
LTG : )

Yanno what? That switch test is in Dedicated Switches" and it's firing manually there!

I started my game up, have a plumb bob tilt switch that is red. Odd, as I don't even have mine installed.

My target ship bullseye is red too.

When I started the "target ship hit" was red also, but I cleared that manually by rockin the boat.

20200327_214333 (resized).jpg
#2790 3 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Okay, stupid question.

Not stupid if you've never done it.

Quoted from wesman:

So do you mean the already exposed metal contacts going into the "switch"?

If you can get at them both - yes.

Quoted from wesman:

where the insulation is covering the wires feeding away from the "switch"?

Insulation won't conduct electricity. So you'd have to peel it back a tiny bit to get at the bare wire ends.

Quoted from wesman:

And do I touch both contact point at once, as in both exposed wires or one at a time?

One at a time won't do anything. You need to short the two wires together. All a working switch does is short those two wires together inside the switch, completing a circuit. By shorting them together you by pass the switch. This is to check if the switch is good or bad.

LTG : )

#2791 3 days ago
Quoted from wesman:

Yanno what? That switch test is in Dedicated Switches" and it's firing manually there!

Yay ! Sorry about that, I thought it was in matrixed.

Quoted from wesman:

I started my game up, have a plumb bob tilt switch that is red. Odd, as I don't even have mine installed.

Not installed - that means you've never tilted the game. If you push the rod to the metal ring in test should clear the error.

In settings, you can turn off the error warning and red dot at start up if you want. Then the only way to see errors is with the game turned on, open coin door, and hit the enter button.

LTG : )

#2792 3 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yay ! Sorry about that, I thought it was in matrixed.

Not installed - that means you've never tilted the game. If you push the rod to the metal ring in test should clear the error.
In settings, you can turn off the error warning and red dot at start up if you want. Then the only way to see errors is with the game turned on, open coin door, and hit the enter button.
LTG : )

Thank you again for everything my friend!

I think I need to buy a leaf switch adjuster tool to bend this a bit tighter down towards the red button. Other than that, better than it was...!

Now to figure out this coin door/receiver/and shooter rod alignment situation. Well, another day, anyway.

#2793 3 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Two leaf blade switches under there, one on each side of kicker - in Tests - Switches - Matrixed - is one stuck closed ? If you bang on playfield does vibration set one or both off ?
Any other switches show on the screen as closed that should be open ?
LTG : )

No, The switches work fine and aren’t stuck, and banging on the playfield doesn’t activate them. Interestingly, it stops firing when the playfield is pulled up.

#2794 3 days ago
Quoted from dts:

Interestingly, it stops firing when the playfield is pulled up.

Wires are being stretched when playfield is lowered. Maybe wiggle the black plastic tubes with the wires in them behind the playfield. And be sure they move or have a little slack.

LTG : )

#2795 3 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Wires are being stretched when playfield is lowered. Maybe wiggle the black plastic tubes with the wires in them behind the playfield. And be sure they move or have a little slack.
LTG : )

Ok, I'll give that a shot!

#2796 3 days ago

Joined the club today....NIB LE #435!!!!! Found a needle in a haystack from an excellent European dealer. Can't wait to get stuck in.......got a few issues with it out of the box including the black pearl. Some great information here from previous users.

#2797 3 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I've noticed the same thing on my inner loop. There will be times I spin a few times around the inner loop with fast clean shots and I don't hear the sound effect, and if the shots then finish into the gold targets there isn't much gold given. The next time I have the Pearl off I'm going to try the same tape fix used in Jurassic Park (which is a fix adopted from Metallica). You cover the lower half of the opto opening with electrical tape. The idea is that this eliminates the lower part of the beam which would only be broken by the lower (much narrower) part of the ball. On that lower part of the ball the beam isn't broken long enough for a fast shot to register. With the tape on, when the ball travels fast through the loop the lower part of the beam is already broken by the tape blocking it and the upper part of the beam is crossed by the wide part of the ball and the shot registers. It worked on my Jurassic Park and a lot of other people had good success with it on the Jurassic Park orbit (and on the T-Rex ramp but that was mainly due to the ball jumping across the opto at the entrance to the ramp). Might be worth a try.
Here's one post about it the tape fix:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/56#post-5312034
Here's a post I made with a picture of my JP orbit opto with the tape on:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welcome-to-the-jurassic-park-le-club/page/65#post-5328626
The Depths VUK is pretty flaky. I don't think there's really any one main solution people have had work. For flipper strength, my lower right is at default (25) and my lower left I think is one (maybe two) below default. If you're having air balls off the maelstrom diverter you could try to increase the pitch of your game or lower flipper power. My pitch is 6.5 by the lower flippers, and 7.0 by the upper left flipper (and 7.3 in front of the chest).

Thanks - I was really hoping the advice wouldn’t be to remove the black pearl because I’ve avoiding doing that so far, but looks like I may have to get my hands dirty soon. For the time being I’ve been playing around with the coil strength settings on the upper flipper and at a few points below default it seems to be more reliable, but still not 100%. I guess I’m fortunate that I haven’t had any issues with the optos on my JP, but I’d prefer to apply the tape fix on that game!

I recorded some slow motion video of the issue of the ball losing momentum going down the P lane and it looks like the problem is with the inlane switch - the ejects seem fine but some catch on the switch a bit. I’ll mess around with it and see if I can bend it a bit lower to avoid the issue in the future.

About to crawl under the game and mess with the pitch - hopefully my back survives!

#2798 2 days ago
Quoted from JustLikeMe:

I was really hoping the advice wouldn’t be to remove the black pearl

Not bad. Turn game off. Lift main playfield up and slide forward and rest on front of cabinet. Behind the back wall, remove the clip holding the flat metal thingy hooking the motor to the black pearl and slide the metal thingy off and white nylon spacer so you don't lose it.

Between the inside of the back wall and the back side of the black pearl, look down. See the allen head bolt sticking up ? remove it. Then slide the black pearl back off of the two pivot points and set on it's side on the main playfield on top of some shop towels or something.

LTG : )

#2799 2 days ago

I was having trouble with my spinners on the black pearl and come to find that the left and right spinner opto’s are completely destroyed! Does anyone know where I can get replacements? Are parts available through Jersey Jack with the move To Illinois and the Covid-19 epidemic? Part # 18-005003-00.

BDFC9C15-9B6E-4EE8-9CFB-49E1A06DA74E (resized).png
#2800 2 days ago
Quoted from HeavyMetalPoet:

I was having trouble with my spinners on the black pearl and come to find that the left and right spinner opto’s are completely destroyed! Does anyone know where I can get replacements? Are parts available through Jersey Jack with the move To Illinois and the Covid-19 epidemic? Part # 18-005003-00.[quoted image]

Yes they should have them and also offer a free protector plastic to cover that in the future. Good luck.

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