(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

1 year ago



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#2701 80 days ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

Not an expert and haven’t looked at the manual so take my advise with a grain of salt. I’d move the meter from continuity to ohms and recheck the pins. If the resistance between yellow and the yellow-color wires is 0 or very low you have a problem. This is unlikely since the fuses are fine.

About 25ohms on the ones that show continuity.

Anyhow, not really sure where to go next on this. I thought I had it narrowed down to the motor relay board but I sent that off to yelobird and he tried it on his pin and it worked fine. Maybe I should have sent the whole mechanism but I did not.

Just can't figure...the optos work fine on the motor. All other things on J109 work. Fuses fine.

Is there a cat5 cable that is part of the working of that motor? If so, I can easily switch it out to make sure it is not a communication issue. (I've been bit by cat5 issues in the past)

LTG (or anyone else), any thoughts?

Thanks,

Darin

#2702 80 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

About 25ohms on the ones that show continuity.
Anyhow, not really sure where to go next on this. I thought I had it narrowed down to the motor relay board but I sent that off to yelobird and he tried it on his pin and it worked fine. Maybe I should have sent the whole mechanism but I did not.
Just can't figure...the optos work fine on the motor. All other things on J109 work. Fuses fine.
Is there a cat5 cable that is part of the working of that motor? If so, I can easily switch it out to make sure it is not a communication issue. (I've been bit by cat5 issues in the past)
LTG (or anyone else), any thoughts?
Thanks,
Darin

Took a look at the manual and it's a pretty simple circuit. If the relay board and wiring are good, then it could be the transistors (Q417 & Q418).

Basically, the game processor is sending signals to the transistors to rock the ship back-and-forth. When the transistor gets a signal, it completes the 12V circuit across the motor winding. There should always be 12V between J1-5 at the relay board and ground braid. Looks like when transistor Q417 is pulsed it allows 12V to flow through the motor to J1-3/J109-9 rocking it in one direction. When Q418 is pulsed, it pulls in the relay coil which flips the DPDT relay switch and allows voltage to flow through J1-4/J109 rocking it in the other direction.

First I'd confirm there is 12V between J1-5 & ground, and J1-2 (normally closed side of relay switch) & ground. If OK, then put the BP motor in test and see if there is 12V between J1-1 (normally open side of relay switch) & ground when the relay is pulled in.

If voltages check out, then I'd test the transistors. TIP transistors are easy to test but I'm not sure about MOSFETs. There are probably some threads on here or videos on the web.

I know the basics, but could certainly be missing something. Hopefully Lloyd or someone else experienced with JJP games can weigh-in.

#2703 80 days ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

Took a look at the manual and it's a pretty simple circuit. If the relay board and wiring are good, then it could be the transistors (Q417 & Q418).
Basically, the game processor is sending signals to the transistors to rock the ship back-and-forth. When the transistor gets a signal, it completes the 12V circuit across the motor winding. There should always be 12V between J1-5 at the relay board and ground braid. Looks like when transistor Q417 is pulsed it allows 12V to flow through the motor to J1-3/J109-9 rocking it in one direction. When Q418 is pulsed, it pulls in the relay coil which flips the DPDT relay switch and allows voltage to flow through J1-4/J109 rocking it in the other direction.
First I'd confirm there is 12V between J1-5 & ground, and J1-2 (normally closed side of relay switch) & ground. If OK, then put the BP motor in test and see if there is 12V between J1-1 (normally open side of relay switch) & ground when the relay is pulled in.
If voltages check out, then I'd test the transistors. TIP transistors are easy to test but I'm not sure about MOSFETs. There are probably some threads on here or videos on the web.
I know the basics, but could certainly be missing something. Hopefully Lloyd or someone else experienced with JJP games can weigh-in.

When you say Rock the ship back and forth are you looking for something different? He is having trouble with the spinning disk motor not working and thats the board he sent me to verify is working. Did I miss something?

#2704 80 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

When you say Rock the ship back and forth are you looking for something different? He is having trouble with the spinning disk motor not working and thats the board he sent me to verify is working. Did I miss something?

His prior posts all discuss the BP motor not working and J109 which provides power to the BP rock motor. Not sure if the relay board is the same.

#2705 80 days ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

His prior posts all discuss the BP motor not working and J109 which provides power to the BP rock motor. Not sure if the relay board is the same.

Was just a bit confused as the board he sent me was for the spinning disk lol. That board was fine. I fear we are all trouble shooting opposite sides of the game. Do hope he can get it working.

#2706 80 days ago

Looks like the ship and map use the same part number relay board.

If the map is working, I'd switch the boards to double check they are both good. Unlikely that both transistors are bad. Could even be a bad motor. Should be easy to jumper 12V directly to the motor wiring to check.

#2707 80 days ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

Looks like the ship and map use the same part number relay board.
If the map is working, I'd switch the boards to double check they are both good. Unlikely that both transistors are bad. Could even be a bad motor. Should be easy to jumper 12V directly to the motor wiring to check.

I agree with your direction. As he verified he has 12v to the board and the board is good I would focus on J109 wire 9 to make sure it is sending a signal. Could have somehow killed the Q417 driver. Should be able to test it.

#2708 80 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Balls magnetized and not rolling in the chest right ? Optos in the chest not working ? Not the correct number of balls in the game, too many or one stuck somewhere ?
LTG : )

No magnetized,
Chest block first ball well...then You are playing the next ball...and release the first ball blocked

#2709 80 days ago
Quoted from Hunico:

No magnetized,
Chest block first ball well...then You are playing the next ball...and release the first ball blocked

So if you're in switch test mode with an empty chest and you roll a ball in, does opto 1 register? When you add a second ball does opto2 register? When you add the third ball, does opto3 register? i.e. are the optos in the correct order?

#2710 79 days ago

Lucky is right. My issue is with the ship rocking. I must be a complete moron as I didn’t realize the same motor relay board is used on the spinning disc too. Not sure how I missed that in the manual. I could have easily just switched the boards and tested myself at home. (By the way yelobird ley me know how much I owe you for shipping board back to me)

Maybe I’ll pull the whole I/O board and visually inspect the back of it to make sure nothing is burnt out.

luckymoey good idea about sending 12v directly to the motor. I was just searching last night about how I might be able to do that. Hence the reason I maybe should have sent the whole assembly. I’ll take a closer look and post my plan to make sure it is safe and correct before I do something I’ve never done before. Certainly don’t want to fry something else due to ignorance.

Attached are a couple photos of the actual motor for the ship rocker. Does all this look good? The connection does look different than the motor for the spinning disc.

Darin

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#2711 79 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Lucky is right. My issue is with the ship rocking. I must be a complete moron as I didn’t realize the same motor relay board is used on the spinning disc too. Not sure how I missed that in the manual. I could have easily just switched the boards and tested myself at home. (By the way yelobird ley me know how much I owe you for shipping board back to me)
Maybe I’ll pull the whole I/O board and visually inspect the back of it to make sure nothing is burnt out.
luckymoey good idea about sending 12v directly to the motor. I was just searching last night about how I might be able to do that. Hence the reason I maybe should have sent the whole assembly. I’ll take a closer look and post my plan to make sure it is safe and correct before I do something I’ve never done before. Certainly don’t want to fry something else due to ignorance.
Attached are a couple photos of the actual motor for the ship rocker. Does all this look good? The connection does look different than the motor for the spinning disc.
Darin[quoted image][quoted image]

There should normally be 12V on both motor terminals. Confirm by testing between each terminal and the ground braid. The motor operates when the transistor switches and provides a path for the 12V to drain to "ground." If 12V is there, you should be able to test by grounding pin J1-3. You can use a wire with an 1/8" or so stripped off each end. Carefully stick one end into the the back of the molex connector at J1-3 and momentarily touch the other end to ground braid. The motor should pulse. Again, I may be missing something, so it would be good if you could confirm my suggestion with Lloyd/JJP.

#2712 79 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

(By the way yelobird ley me know how much I owe you for shipping board back to me)
Darin[quoted image][quoted image]

Nothing owed just trying to help a fellow pirate find his way out of Davy Jones locker. Lol. Hope you get it figured out.

#2713 79 days ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

There should normally be 12V on both motor terminals. Confirm by testing between each terminal and the ground braid. The motor operates when the transistor switches and provides a path for the 12V to drain to "ground." If 12V is there, you should be able to test by grounding pin J1-3. You can use a wire with an 1/8" or so stripped off each end. Carefully stick one end into the the back of the molex connector at J1-3 and momentarily touch the other end to ground braid. The motor should pulse. Again, I may be missing something, so it would be good if you could confirm my suggestion with Lloyd/JJP.

I'd test the drive transistors before doing any of that. It's the most common point of failure and dead simple to test.

#2714 79 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

I'd test the drive transistors before doing any of that. It's the most common point of failure and dead simple to test.

Easy to test TIPs but I’ve never tested a MOSFET. Seems a little tricky to do on the board from what I found on the web. Any tips?

#2715 79 days ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

Easy to test TIPs but I’ve never tested a MOSFET. Seems a little tricky to do on the board from what I found on the web. Any tips?

If it's gone bad, it's likely a short between source and drain. Just check for resistance between those two and compare to the other mosfets in the area for reference. If it's different, it's likely bad.

#2716 75 days ago

You ever have one of those moments of elation only to be followed by a let down. That was me and JJPOTC tonight...

Finally found a little time to keep troubleshooting. Just out of curiosity I switched the motor relay boards from the spinning disc and the BP rocker motor. After trying a few things I realized I could get the disc working with either board (which is what I expected after getting it back from yelobird ). More interesting, however was that after trying a couple of different things, I actually got the BP motor working also! I was extremely excited. When I had it working I had the board kind of floating in the air by the 5 pin molex connector. So, excitedly, I put everything back together and much to my disappointment, the disc worked fine but no BP rocking.

Went into the BP test and nothing. Tried reseating the molex connector probably 10-15 times...nothing. Tried taking it back to the"floating board" position and still nothing. Only thing I can guess is maybe a loose or intermittent connection? I did notice the power wire coming off the board and going TO the motor is a little loose in the Molex connector but when I test it there seems to be continuity.

I can play the game but the BP doesn't rock at all. There are obviously a gazillion things going on with the game so I have no idea what I'm doing yet. Any insight on how I can further track down this issue?

Sadly, I'm going to have to read up on the TIPs and MOSFET you speak of above. Since I actually had a working BP motor briefly tonight would that rule out a bad TIP or MOSFET?

#2717 75 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Since I actually had a working BP motor briefly tonight would that rule out a bad TIP or MOSFET?

Probably. Doesn't rule out across or through board continuity.

LTG : )

#2718 75 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Sadly, I'm going to have to read up on the TIPs and MOSFET you speak of above. Since I actually had a working BP motor briefly tonight would that rule out a bad TIP or MOSFET?

If it was briefly working, that would USUALLY rule out a bad TIP transistor or MOSFET. It seems like you have an intermittent connection or maybe a cold solder joint.

If you have the board connected up and are in a position to run the test, if you start the test and then apply pressure to the board connector, first against the left side of the connector, then from the right side of the connector, does the motor come to life pressing either direction (with the test running and the coin door interlock pin pulled out so it has power).

#2719 75 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

You ever have one of those moments of elation only to be followed by a let down. That was me and JJPOTC tonight...
Finally found a little time to keep troubleshooting. Just out of curiosity I switched the motor relay boards from the spinning disc and the BP rocker motor. After trying a few things I realized I could get the disc working with either board (which is what I expected after getting it back from yelobird ). More interesting, however was that after trying a couple of different things, I actually got the BP motor working also! I was extremely excited. When I had it working I had the board kind of floating in the air by the 5 pin molex connector. So, excitedly, I put everything back together and much to my disappointment, the disc worked fine but no BP rocking.
Went into the BP test and nothing. Tried reseating the molex connector probably 10-15 times...nothing. Tried taking it back to the"floating board" position and still nothing. Only thing I can guess is maybe a loose or intermittent connection? I did notice the power wire coming off the board and going TO the motor is a little loose in the Molex connector but when I test it there seems to be continuity.
I can play the game but the BP doesn't rock at all. There are obviously a gazillion things going on with the game so I have no idea what I'm doing yet. Any insight on how I can further track down this issue?
Sadly, I'm going to have to read up on the TIPs and MOSFET you speak of above. Since I actually had a working BP motor briefly tonight would that rule out a bad TIP or MOSFET?

Try one last time. This time swap those boards and see if the ship keeps moving and the disk stops this time. Hopefully if that’s the case and the fact that it Did work a bit for a short time I would bet there may be an issue with the solder joints on the five pins on that board as a motion stopped it. Simple enough to swap them.

#2720 75 days ago

Thanks for all the quick replies. I did switch them out a couple more times. It is funny. At one point I had both boards just hanging via their respective molex connectors. I noticed that at least some times (maybe all the time, i should have paid closer attention) if I just switched out the boards without leaving the testing menu I would not even get the disc motor working. But then if I went out of the menu and then back in (I might have needed to power cycle the game...don't remember for sure) the disc motor would start working again. I found that strange but figured I'd share it since I don't really know what finding is important and what is not.

Basically, I can get both boards to run the disc and just the one time did I get the BP motor working.

Quoted from vireland:

If you have the board connected up and are in a position to run the test, if you start the test and then apply pressure to the board connector, first against the left side of the connector, then from the right side of the connector, does the motor come to life pressing either direction (with the test running and the coin door interlock pin pulled out so it has power).

Messing with the molex connector was the first thing I did when the motor went back to being dead. I don't think there would be a bad solder joint if both boards can work the disc motor, right? Do Molex connectors get loose or go bad? I may need to buy a couple spare connectors and whatever I need to make one.

As I mentioned, there is a little 'play' in the 12V wire in the molex but it tests continuous.

#2721 75 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

I don't think there would be a bad solder joint

I'd reflow them. Suck off old and put on new lead solder.

LTG : )

#2722 75 days ago

You mean on the motor control board, yes?

Thanks for all the suggestions. It will be a week or so before I can address this again but feel free to keep suggestions coming.

Darin

#2723 75 days ago

Yes. The pins the connectors plug onto.

LTG : )

#2724 75 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

You mean on the motor control board, yes?
Thanks for all the suggestions. It will be a week or so before I can address this again but feel free to keep suggestions coming.
Darin

Assuming a week or so means your traveling so..... If you wish to send me Both boards this time I will reflow All pins and send it back again. Your call trying anything to help you out. Would honestly take me 10 minutes and could return same day they arrive. Just let me know and consider it done. I honestly think you have an issue with the pins on the board of possibly one of the wires in the molex has a loose grip pin. Most times while in test if you simple move the molex plug side to side and up and down you will loose signal showing the bad pin.

#2725 74 days ago

Yep, on the road already. I’ll try the pushing the connector deal and if it does t work I’ll send you the boards to reflow. I can soldier switches and such but not sure I’m good enough to do board work. Those solder joints are pretty small. I’d be worried I would get solder between the points.

#2726 74 days ago

Has anyone had their compass lcd go black? Trying to help out a friend. It flickered for a while, then stopped working. Could it be one of the internal cables inside the apron?

#2727 74 days ago
Quoted from Axl:

Could it be one of the internal cables inside the apron?

From it to the motherboard.

LTG : )

#2728 74 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Assuming a week or so means your traveling so..... If you wish to send me Both boards this time I will reflow All pins and send it back again. Your call trying anything to help you out. Would honestly take me 10 minutes and could return same day they arrive. Just let me know and consider it done. I honestly think you have an issue with the pins on the board of possibly one of the wires in the molex has a loose grip pin. Most times while in test if you simple move the molex plug side to side and up and down you will loose signal showing the bad pin.

You're super helpful! Definitely a really nice gesture that you've made already for this issue, yet alone offering to help out more!

#2729 68 days ago

Things are pretty smooth with the new JJPOTC, but a couple of little things have come up. When on the upper playfield and after hitting "load," the "lit fuse" hole flap lifts up but then drops again when using the left flipper. It stays up when using the right flipper. Not sure what is going on with this. Also, sometimes "gold" keeps repetitively going off without a reason. Appreciate any input!

#2730 68 days ago
Quoted from dts:

Things are pretty smooth with the new JJPOTC, but a couple of little things have come up. When on the upper playfield and after hitting "load," the "lit fuse" hole flap lifts up but then drops again when using the left flipper. It stays up when using the right flipper. Not sure what is going on with this. Also, sometimes "gold" keeps repetitively going off without a reason. Appreciate any input!

You likely have a switch on the G-O-L-D targets too close that's triggering from vibration (or some other switch). Put the game in switch test mode and hit the playfield firmly with the palm of your hand near the GOLD targets and elsewhere on the PF and see if any switches trigger. If they do, widen the gap on those switches so vibration doesn't trigger them.

#2731 68 days ago

Thanks, I'll check that out! What do you think about the flap going down with the left upper playfield flipper activated?

#2732 68 days ago
Quoted from dts:

Thanks, I'll check that out! What do you think about the flap going down with the left upper playfield flipper activated?

Sorry, in my head I was like, "this will fix both" and only sent you to fix the switch without explaining why. My mental shorthand.

It's probably related to the switch down below. It goes up, but then a switch is triggered on the lower PF from vibration, so it doesn't think a ball is up there. Fix the switch triggering and that will probably go away, too.

#2733 68 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Sorry, in my head I was like, "this will fix both" and only sent you to fix the switch without explaining why. My mental shorthand.
It's probably related to the switch down below. It goes up, but then a switch is triggered on the lower PF from vibration, so it doesn't think a ball is up there. Fix the switch triggering and that will probably go away, too.

I'll take a look, thanks!

#2734 67 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Sorry, in my head I was like, "this will fix both" and only sent you to fix the switch without explaining why. My mental shorthand.
It's probably related to the switch down below. It goes up, but then a switch is triggered on the lower PF from vibration, so it doesn't think a ball is up there. Fix the switch triggering and that will probably go away, too.

Just some minor switch issues, back to 100 percent. Thanks!

#2735 67 days ago

Surprised with the cancellation of Tpf that we have not heard any pinball news.

#2736 67 days ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Surprised with the cancellation of Tpf that we have not heard any pinball news.

Well, we got the news Heavy Metal release was delayed. Pretty sure that will be the case for everything that was slated to be announced.

#2737 67 days ago
Quoted from dts:

Just some minor switch issues, back to 100 percent. Thanks!

Good to hear!

#2738 64 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Assuming a week or so means your traveling so..... If you wish to send me Both boards this time I will reflow All pins and send it back again. Your call trying anything to help you out. Would honestly take me 10 minutes and could return same day they arrive. Just let me know and consider it done. I honestly think you have an issue with the pins on the board of possibly one of the wires in the molex has a loose grip pin. Most times while in test if you simple move the molex plug side to side and up and down you will loose signal showing the bad pin.

Long update and new troubleshooting notes:

1. I (again) switched the motor relay boards on the spinning disc and the ship motor. BOTH relay boards work the disc very reliably. I hate to go against LTG, but this in my mind completely rules out a bad motor relay board and the need to reflow pins on either board.

2. When I jumper 12V from the spinning disc and put the the game into coil test mode for the disc I can get the ship motor to work. HOWEVER - and this is likely very important - I only get it to work if I directly jumper the wires to some exposed areas on the motor posts. (see photo). Both the 12V and the ground posts for the motor have areas in the rubber sleeves that are all chewed up (don't know why). If I jumper to the 2-pin molex that leads to the motor the motor does not work even though I confirmed 12V IS at the molex connector. This makes me think I might have a bad connection at the motor itself - perhaps a broken wire at the post? I have never messed with any motor but am leaning towards uninstalling the motor and seeing if I can remove the wires at the motor and make a better connection. When doing this, is there anything I need to be mindful of so I don't screw something up? (Is this connection something slips off or would this be a soldered connection? I don't want to accidentally yank something off and make things worse)

3. I definitely do have some looseness in the 5 pin molex that connects to the motor relay board. The 12V wire has a little give in it and the entire connector has some left-right wiggle-room as well.

So, my next steps as I see it are as follows:

1. Evaluate and fix wire connection at the motor
2. If that does not fix my issue, make a new 5 pin molex. (if I get to that point, I will need some guidance on what to buy material wise to make molex connections as I don't have anything at home to do so)

Thanks for the continued input and thoughts.

Darin

JJPOTC ship motor with possible problem areas (resized).jpg
#2739 64 days ago

Darin, the reason #LTG and others suggested reflowing pins is because in one of your last test posts you made mention that both motor setups worked when moving things around till you tried to slide the game in. That would suggest that there are no issue with a major component (good thing) and more then likely a connection or loose wire. Having shown those tears in the heat shrink tube in your photo that is where I would start. Don’t remove the motors simply and carefully cut back the remaining heat shrink tube on those motor connections to see if the wires are damaged or lose. It’s very possible a simple reset solder of that wire connection may get you going. Heat shrink tubing is available at most any (open) auto store. In a pinch simply use a small diameter rubber/plastic tube to cover them after repair. Make sure the resister (yellow) is also well connected while your in there. Don’t start cutting and moving motors as you know now they are good and you need to find the loose connection not simply move it. Good luck.

PS if you get frustrated just call #LTG on the service line. At this point he would Love to put down his mop and talk to Anyone about pinball instead of cleaning. Lol

#2740 64 days ago

Thanks for the input.

The reason I double checked the motor relay boards was for that exact reason. Today both boards worked the spinning disc flawlessly.

I'll cut back the shrink tubing and look at it better. If it is just resoldering a wire, that is a skill I do have. I have the equipment and the shrink tubing too.

I'll update later today with my results.

#2741 64 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Thanks for the input.
The reason I double checked the motor relay boards was for that exact reason. Today both boards worked the spinning disc flawlessly.
I'll cut back the shrink tubing and look at it better. If it is just resoldering a wire, that is a skill I do have. I have the equipment and the shrink tubing too.
I'll update later today with my results.

Good luck.

#2742 64 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

I'll cut back the shrink tubing and look at it better. If it is just resoldering a wire, that is a skill I do have.

If you have a 12 volt power source, you could hook up the motor to see if it works. Then you know it's from the motor wires and back the other way.

LTG : )

#2743 64 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

PS if you get frustrated just call #LTG on the service line. At this point he would Love to put down his mop and talk to Anyone about pinball instead of cleaning.

Hey Dave. You asked me what I want for Christmas. Here it is.

LTG : )

rider (resized).jpg
#2744 64 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

I'll cut back the shrink tubing and look at it better. If it is just resoldering a wire, that is a skill I do have. I have the equipment and the shrink tubing too.

This got me to thinking. Once you tear into this. Besides the solder joint on the motor. That wire could have a break or weak spot inside the casing you can't see.

LTG : )

#2745 64 days ago

Thanks, Lloyd. I was wondering that also.

I think me jumping the 12V out from the motor relay board of the spinning disc directly to the rocker motor leads (and gloriously watching that motor work) is what got me thinking about an issue in either the wire or connection after I noticed the beat up shrink tubing on both leads (still curious as to WHY that would be the case)

#2746 64 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Hey Dave. You asked me what I want for Christmas. Here it is.
LTG : )[quoted image]

Will this and a broom work?

D20B861C-2D7C-4E0F-8196-2F95C1020B8F (resized).jpeg
#2747 64 days ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Will this and a broom work?

Hey with your 3D printing skills. I bet you could whip me up a life size ride on floor cleaner in no time.

Just don't forget the "B"rake pedal.

LTG : )

#2748 64 days ago

I still want someone to develop a direct drive spinning disc assembly, without the stupid noisy gear setup. Even with the silencer kit, it’s loud and I keep having to adjust the gear because the set screws back out.

#2749 64 days ago

Ok looking for some help? Detailed picture of the black pearl underneath wiring. Have agree broken wires. 2 slack on the left/center and looks to go to the left flipper switch. But the one I need help on is the green wire that is broke off. Posting pics here Mabey’s someone cane get me to solution faster.

Also bracket looks to be missing screw. Most concerning is I lost the left targets and left load cannon switch?

Thanks in advance.

83D6BC8B-DA46-41BF-A9D7-F413F20ADBEC (resized).jpeg9BC33790-6EBD-4360-86DD-DAABAA0F5376 (resized).jpeg6B37F0D8-A35F-4547-A01B-F73B3CA1F327 (resized).jpeg
#2750 63 days ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Thanks, Lloyd. I was wondering that also.
I think me jumping the 12V out from the motor relay board of the spinning disc directly to the rocker motor leads (and gloriously watching that motor work) is what got me thinking about an issue in either the wire or connection after I noticed the beat up shrink tubing on both leads (still curious as to WHY that would be the case)

SUCCESS! Black Pearl is Rockin' (literally!)

As with many pinball issues I have trouble-shot over the years the actual fix for a problem was very easy. It is the diagnosis that is so frustrating.

So, in the end I simply had broken wires at the Black Pearl Rocker Motor. I gently cut back the chewed-up heat shrink and even before I had got finished the wires simply popped off. Both the 12V and the ground wire had somehow been severed right where the wire came out of the wire jacket.

Here is a photo of the new wire install (before shrink heating the tubing which I did do) and a short video of the working BP.

Thank you to everyone for your help, especially @yelobird.

Couple of take home points if anyone else has to troubleshoot the rocker motor or even the spinning disc:

1. Both use the same motor relay board. You can switch the boards to make sure you don't have a bad board
2. You can jump the 12V power from one mech to the other mech to make sure you don't have a bad motor
3. Don't ever forget that connections can break. I wish I would have thought of that earlier and inspected the motor earlier in my diagnostic process.

Video:

Photo:

Working BP (resized).jpg
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