For the star field map, are lights coming on for the JJP factory one (behind the mod) while you’re playing a ball? If I’m remembering correctly I think the green light on it is designed as an indicator it has power and is working. Have you played any balls with the mod off and just that original star field visible?

Is that a green or the orange one?

Mine is green. Here’s a post from the main thread where someone else’s is green also.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/186#post-4998274

Cool! And I don't even have to hunt for a photo of my orange one, it's posted right below that one, haha!

Hey folks, so I know this has come up many times and I am totally stumped. My balls keep getting magnetized. I just got a brand new set and hoped it would fix the issues with my trunk release. Nope... The balls are now so magnetized they are sticking in the ball trough under the apron and are not being fed.

Maybe I need another set of balls or how do I de-magnetize my ball trough?

I would LOVE any guidance here.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809

Won't help with the trunk.

LTG : )

You need new balls or demagnetize them.

Ball trough isn't magnetized. But balls that are don't always roll down the ball trough smooth.

Kinetic energy ( balls hitting balls, balls hitting steel ) or magnets in a game, magnetize balls.

LTG : )

Buy carbon steel balls. The shiny ones like silver jets magnetize quickly. Carbon steel does not. Trust me. I've been through what you're experiencing.

Thanks all. So a buddy said he only uses certain balls... he could not remember what brand.. he gave me some, problem solved. Pretty amazing the magnetized balls where both sticking in the trough... and making the mini coil in the trunk struggle to fully open

How to fix popping or stuttering audio during game play on your JJP POTC and keep your head phone audio working! I took out pin #7 faudio_jd if you look at the mobo audio jack

enjoy!

Keith

Hanes her way... just saying.

Going to try this in a bit and I'll report if it helps on mine as well.

Someone in the JP2 thread just posted this clever idea for the one way gate. I remembered this question popping up here and thought I’d post a link to it. I might give this a try.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/78#post-5456180

Play testing my game after almost putting it back together. Every time I hit the flippers I get 3 points scored and pirates going Arrhhh. Any idea what could be the issue here?

I put it in test mode banged on the playfield, no luck. Activated pretty much all the switches and coils, all good. Head scratcher for sure....

Problem fixed! When I put titan rubbers in, I Accidentally bent the leaf switch behind the bumper area. All good now! Thanks!

While in the switch test, use the palm of your hand to tap on the playfield in different spots. My guess is you have a blade switch (inside the chapter select are) that is too close and the vibration from the flipper is causing the issue. Also check the ones closer to the flippers (pop bumpers).

Guess I type slow while watching tv. I'm going to leave my post for anyone else trying to diagnose a similar issue.

Nice job figuring it out.

Duplicate

Your guess was correct. Easy fix

Whenever you hear the faint arrrg and are not in Arrrrg frenzy it means you hit the extra ball leaf switch. If extra ball is lit you get eb if not you hear arrrrrrrg

Just a quick reminder to people looking at switch tests indicating 'bad switch'. When I booted up last night it ran the automated report and flagged two bad switches. However - when I exercised them, they went back to normal. I then recalled some switches reporting as 'bad' after a certain number of plays and not having them hit. I think the two of mine that were bad were the pearl cannon loaded opto, and the dauntless bullseye opto. My 5 year old loves playing the game so he's played a good number and not shot the pearl cannon much less hit the bullseye

Figured I'd remind everyone just in case.

For the record, I'm 100% not a fan of that !@#%!#% monitor being in front of the CPU and driver board.

^ Key post material IMO.

Nice notes. Glad the issue wasn't too involved.

Great find! I wonder what LTG thinks of this power supply issue?

I think I'm grateful for zaphX figuring out a potential issue. And sharing it.

LTG : )

I wasnt going to say it because its been a bit since ive done computer work. Corsair when I was into tech was really good for memory but not much else. But back then they really only made memory so not up to date on current standards. If I were buying a power supply I would always buy an Antec. Reason being is my 15 year old antec power supply still powers my pc today. I have only recently thought about replacing it but only because it came from the time before modular power and pcie so I sometimes have a hard time adding new things.

I second this. I have had 2 relatively new (2 years or less) Corsair PS blow up in 2 different machines within weeks of each other recently. But another machine has a -12- year old Antec, and still going strong.

I also remember back in the day Corsair were one of the go-to names for RAM, but I suspect those days are long since past..

I know the replacement ramp will help my plunger issues, but currently, it's inconsistent.

Sometimes it plunges really well and sometimes it does not so maybe the ramp isn't as much of a factor as I figured it to be. Perhaps I can try to just tighten down the shooter assembly to help get it a bit more consistent?

My theory is after each plunge, the tip of the plunger winds up in a slightly different spot or the next ball does. Idk...

Does the same inconsistency occur when the auto auto-launcher launches the ball?

No. The auto plunger seems consistently weak.

Why shift the entire playfield? My auto plunger did this, so I just put a very small pad where the auto plunger hits the bottom of playfield. That keeps the mech from rotating enough to interfere with the manual plunger, and it doesn't affect the rest of the game at all.

It can definitely be because of the wireform. On my first wireform the ball would hit the mounting tab and was inconsistant 80% of the time. I did most of the normal fixes you listed and still had some issues prolly 70% gone. Then I found out the last 20% or so of the issues were ball hitting wireform slowing down plunge..Look closely at the mounting tabs and the weld on the wireform. Ill see if I can get a pic of old wireform to show you what im talking about

jjp kindly sent a replacement

I appreciate the effort guys. I really would like to get this figured out so I'll do everything I can to figure out the inconsistency. Like maybe take a picture of the ball prior to every plunge and did figure out if it's good or not. If it is, was the ball in a different spot?

My girlfriend put the idea in my head that *possibly* the ball travels slightly different on each plunge. If it hits the damaged area then bad plunge. Otherwise, good plunge.

I'm not sure how much effort I want to spend on it if the rail is more responsible than I realize because I'm still pending a replacement.

Again, the auto plunges always seem weaker, but I'll pay attention to this when I start multi balls or something.

Am I correct in thinking/assuming the autoplunger will not quite be as powerful as a manual plunge, by design? Or should they be pretty equal?

Thanks again.

Ok not calling this Groundhog Day but you already Fixed this once and went through this same deal many months ago? In your post #1330 you even pride yourself on fixing it 100%?? What happened since then or what did you last do to undo your working plunger.

Thanks for pointing this out. I had to go find that post to revisit what I said. So in that post I was referring to plunging dry. I think at the time I figured the "only thing" that mattered was the forks not moving when plunging, but turns out there are other factors then just that.

I am moving my BP motor woes from the owner's thread over to over here.

Basically, for those who have not seen my issue, my BP does not move either during a game or in test modes. I've made sure everything mechanically speaking is fine and the pearl does move when i manually spin the motor disc that the rod is connected to. All fuses good and everything else on J109 I/O is working.

So, I think the issue is either no 12V power is getting to the board, or no 5V power is leaving the board to the motor.

I tested the power into and out of the board (if I did this right...see photos)

If I am correct in my assessment, it looks like I have my 12V going TO the board (testing pin 5-yellow) shows 12-13V (I have my black multimeter lead touching a ground in the cab) but when I test pin 1 (which on my pin is a yellow wire but the yellow connects to a red in the molex connnector downstream) I'm not showing a correct 5V like I think I should.

Please look at my photos and confirm my assessment of the situation or tell me how I'm awry and wrong.

If, indeed, I have my 12V coming in but no power coming out I'm guessing my motor relay board is bad and replacing it is necessary.

Thanks for looking and for helping!

Motor relay board (resized).PNG

Motor relay board 12V in (resized).jpg

Motor relay board 5V out (resized).jpg

When you manually plunge do you see the forks of the auto plunge move? This is common with some games. In order to correct this you need to loosen the shooter rod housing (manual plunger) and move it down so the washer on the shooter rod doesnt hit the auto plunger. I had to do this to a few customer's games.

your second picture isn't measuring anything as pins 1 and 2 on the relay board are the output to the motor. you would need to have the board plugged in, then test the voltage at the motor itself to see if the relay itself is working.

You are on the right track though.