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(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

1 year ago



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#2501 10 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

For the chest mod there’s a thread with a lot of troubleshooting here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpotc-treasure-chest-open-and-close
And I like the idea of a target practice mode. That would be great!

For the star field map, are lights coming on for the JJP factory one (behind the mod) while you’re playing a ball? If I’m remembering correctly I think the green light on it is designed as an indicator it has power and is working. Have you played any balls with the mod off and just that original star field visible?

#2502 10 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

For the star field map, are lights coming on for the JJP factory one (behind the mod) while you’re playing a ball? If I’m remembering correctly I think the green light on it is designed as an indicator it has power and is working. Have you played any balls with the mod off and just that original star field visible?

Is that a green or the orange one?

#2503 10 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Is that a green or the orange one?

Mine is green. Here’s a post from the main thread where someone else’s is green also.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/186#post-4998274

#2504 10 months ago

Cool! And I don't even have to hunt for a photo of my orange one, it's posted right below that one, haha!

#2505 10 months ago

Hey folks, so I know this has come up many times and I am totally stumped. My balls keep getting magnetized. I just got a brand new set and hoped it would fix the issues with my trunk release. Nope... The balls are now so magnetized they are sticking in the ball trough under the apron and are not being fed.

Maybe I need another set of balls or how do I de-magnetize my ball trough?

I would LOVE any guidance here.

#2507 10 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Maybe I need another set of balls or how do I de-magnetize my ball trough?

You need new balls or demagnetize them.

Ball trough isn't magnetized. But balls that are don't always roll down the ball trough smooth.

Kinetic energy ( balls hitting balls, balls hitting steel ) or magnets in a game, magnetize balls.

LTG : )

#2508 10 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey folks, so I know this has come up many times and I am totally stumped. My balls keep getting magnetized. I just got a brand new set and hoped it would fix the issues with my trunk release. Nope... The balls are now so magnetized they are sticking in the ball trough under the apron and are not being fed.
Maybe I need another set of balls or how do I de-magnetize my ball trough?
I would LOVE any guidance here.

Are you using shiny/chromed balls? They are no good for games with magnets.

I have a big box of these and change them out every 1000 plays or so.

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=57&product_id=69

#2509 10 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Hey folks, so I know this has come up many times and I am totally stumped. My balls keep getting magnetized. I just got a brand new set and hoped it would fix the issues with my trunk release. Nope... The balls are now so magnetized they are sticking in the ball trough under the apron and are not being fed.
Maybe I need another set of balls or how do I de-magnetize my ball trough?
I would LOVE any guidance here.

Buy carbon steel balls. The shiny ones like silver jets magnetize quickly. Carbon steel does not. Trust me. I've been through what you're experiencing.

#2510 10 months ago

Thanks all. So a buddy said he only uses certain balls... he could not remember what brand.. he gave me some, problem solved. Pretty amazing the magnetized balls where both sticking in the trough... and making the mini coil in the trunk struggle to fully open

#2511 9 months ago

How to fix popping or stuttering audio during game play on your JJP POTC and keep your head phone audio working! I took out pin #7 faudio_jd if you look at the mobo audio jack

enjoy!

Keith

#2512 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

I hate seeing anything exposed, in Hanes.
LTG : )

Hanes her way... just saying.

#2513 9 months ago
Quoted from gandalfnet:

How to fix popping or stuttering audio during game play on your JJP POTC and keep your head phone audio working! I took out pin #7 faudio_jd if you look at the mobo audio jack

enjoy!
Keith

Going to try this in a bit and I'll report if it helps on mine as well.

#2514 9 months ago
Quoted from Heater:

Hi everyone,
So I've had an ongoing problem that I don't know what to do or if it is just that way on pinball machines. It has happened off and on but today it occurred twice in one game. When a ball goes back up towards the one-way gate at the I lane, it manages to go past the gate and drain. I did my best to take a video of re-creating it. Is this normal for a one-way gate and just part of the game or is it something else that I'm missing?

Someone in the JP2 thread just posted this clever idea for the one way gate. I remembered this question popping up here and thought I’d post a link to it. I might give this a try.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-stern-2019-owners-club-welcome-to-jurassic-park/page/78#post-5456180

#2515 9 months ago

Play testing my game after almost putting it back together. Every time I hit the flippers I get 3 points scored and pirates going Arrhhh. Any idea what could be the issue here?

#2516 9 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Play testing my game after almost putting it back together. Every time I hit the flippers I get 3 points scored and pirates going Arrhhh. Any idea what could be the issue here?

There’s a switch somewhere falsing - go into switch test and bang around a bit to see which one it is, then adjust it.

#2517 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

There’s a switch somewhere falsing - go into switch test and bang around a bit to see which one it is, then adjust it.

I put it in test mode banged on the playfield, no luck. Activated pretty much all the switches and coils, all good. Head scratcher for sure....

#2518 9 months ago

Problem fixed! When I put titan rubbers in, I Accidentally bent the leaf switch behind the bumper area. All good now! Thanks!

#2519 9 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I put it in test mode banged on the playfield, no luck. Activated pretty much all the switches and coils, all good. Head scratcher for sure....

While in the switch test, use the palm of your hand to tap on the playfield in different spots. My guess is you have a blade switch (inside the chapter select are) that is too close and the vibration from the flipper is causing the issue. Also check the ones closer to the flippers (pop bumpers).

#2520 9 months ago

Guess I type slow while watching tv. I'm going to leave my post for anyone else trying to diagnose a similar issue.

Nice job figuring it out.

#2522 9 months ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

While in the switch test, use the palm of your hand to tap on the playfield in different spots. My guess is you have a blade switch (inside the chapter select are) that is too close and the vibration from the flipper is causing the issue. Also check the ones closer to the flippers (pop bumpers).

Your guess was correct. Easy fix

#2523 9 months ago

Whenever you hear the faint arrrg and are not in Arrrrg frenzy it means you hit the extra ball leaf switch. If extra ball is lit you get eb if not you hear arrrrrrrg

#2524 9 months ago

Just a quick reminder to people looking at switch tests indicating 'bad switch'. When I booted up last night it ran the automated report and flagged two bad switches. However - when I exercised them, they went back to normal. I then recalled some switches reporting as 'bad' after a certain number of plays and not having them hit. I think the two of mine that were bad were the pearl cannon loaded opto, and the dauntless bullseye opto. My 5 year old loves playing the game so he's played a good number and not shot the pearl cannon much less hit the bullseye

Figured I'd remind everyone just in case.

#2525 9 months ago

For the record, I'm 100% not a fan of that !@#%!#% monitor being in front of the CPU and driver board.

#2526 9 months ago
Quoted from jfesler:

For the record, I'm 100% not a fan of that !@#%!#% monitor being in front of the CPU and driver board.

I think the main problem is the bracket assembly engineering is crap. A gull wing style setup seems like it would have been a lot better, and they are available already on the market.

10
#2527 9 months ago

PROBLEM: Game is shutting down or rebooting randomly. Game shuts down on its own entirely, and often (but not always) powers back up on its own after a few moments.
SOLUTION: This one took me a while to run down. NOTE: I cannot definitively say this is the case for all reboot issues, but it was the case for mine...proceed with caution and at your own risk! Also note my game was out of warranty.

I started to suspect the power supply as the fault when I found that doing high power events (like the knocker test) would cause the fault. I noted that it was a 450 watt 80% Bronze supply from the manual, and the sticker on the supply indicated it was a Corsair. After some googling, I discovered that certain Corsair supplies have a bad capacitor problem. I stumbled on this gentleman’s video about rebooting on a Corsair supply, and his Windows machine exhibited the same exact reboots I did. Please give this guy a like and sub, as it was hugely helpful in my diagnosis!

Now having the confidence that the supply was the issue, I purchased a new supply from Best Buy. I went with Corsair again (with some hesitation, but it was the best they had in stock.) I chose this supply, which is rated higher than the original, and modular (which means I can pick and choose the cables I need.)

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsair-rm-series-750w-atx12v-2-52-eps12v-2-92-80-plus-gold-modular-power-supply-black/6356248.p?skuId=6356248

The steps I followed:

1. Identified all the places the original supply was connected, and marked them with painters tape.
2. Removed the 4 screws on the left of the metal PC cage holding the supply in.
3. Screwed the new supply in place
4. Attached the connections to the same places the original supply used, and with the same types.

From memory, these were:

- Main PC motherboard connection
- 2 x 4pin CPU connection - one to the lower half of the motherboard connector, the other to the audio amp
- 2 x PCIe to connectors above the driver board
- 1 x SATA to the SSD
- 2 x 4 pin, one to the driver board and one to a harness connector

After replacing the supply the game has been rock solid and reboots have stopped. I hope no one else has this issue but if they do, I hope it helps them fix it.

#2528 9 months ago

^ Key post material IMO.

#2529 9 months ago

Nice notes. Glad the issue wasn't too involved.

#2530 9 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Nice notes. Glad the issue wasn't too involved.

It took 3-4 weeks to run it down, trying lots of other things before discovering the power supply. Super frustrating because it was intermittent and had a habit of ruining really great games.

#2531 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It took 3-4 weeks to run it down, trying lots of other things before discovering the power supply. Super frustrating because it was intermittent and had a habit of ruining really great games.

Great find! I wonder what LTG thinks of this power supply issue?

#2532 9 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I wonder what LTG thinks of this power supply issue?

I think I'm grateful for zaphX figuring out a potential issue. And sharing it.

LTG : )

#2533 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

PROBLEM: Game is shutting down or rebooting randomly. Game shuts down on its own entirely, and often (but not always) powers back up on its own after a few moments.
SOLUTION: This one took me a while to run down. NOTE: I cannot definitively say this is the case for all reboot issues, but it was the case for mine...proceed with caution and at your own risk! Also note my game was out of warranty.
I started to suspect the power supply as the fault when I found that doing high power events (like the knocker test) would cause the fault. I noted that it was a 450 watt 80% Bronze supply from the manual, and the sticker on the supply indicated it was a Corsair.

If someone reading this is replacing a power supply out of their own pocket and have the time to wait a day for Amazon Prime to bring it, I'd go with another brand. Corsair is a pretty inconsistent brand since they are not a manufacturer but a brand that buys from different OEMs and slaps their label on products, so quality is all over the place. I usually go with a nice Seasonic since they're the actual manufacturer of the PSUs (Corsair rebrands them for some of their offerings).

Here's a listing of what OEM makes each of the power supplies:

Corsair (not a manufacturer)
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page447.htm

SEASONIC (manufactures the power supplies they sell)
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page678.htm

ANTEC (also not a manufacturer, so quality is inconsistent)
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page673.htm

(BTW, I added your solution to the index, thanks!)

#2534 9 months ago

I wasnt going to say it because its been a bit since ive done computer work. Corsair when I was into tech was really good for memory but not much else. But back then they really only made memory so not up to date on current standards. If I were buying a power supply I would always buy an Antec. Reason being is my 15 year old antec power supply still powers my pc today. I have only recently thought about replacing it but only because it came from the time before modular power and pcie so I sometimes have a hard time adding new things.

#2535 9 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

I wasnt going to say it because its been a bit since ive done computer work. Corsair when I was into tech was really good for memory but not much else. But back then they really only made memory so not up to date on current standards. If I were buying a power supply I would always buy an Antec. Reason being is my 15 year old antec power supply still powers my pc today. I have only recently thought about replacing it but only because it came from the time before modular power and pcie so I sometimes have a hard time adding new things.

I second this. I have had 2 relatively new (2 years or less) Corsair PS blow up in 2 different machines within weeks of each other recently. But another machine has a -12- year old Antec, and still going strong.

I also remember back in the day Corsair were one of the go-to names for RAM, but I suspect those days are long since past..

#2536 9 months ago

I know the replacement ramp will help my plunger issues, but currently, it's inconsistent.

Sometimes it plunges really well and sometimes it does not so maybe the ramp isn't as much of a factor as I figured it to be. Perhaps I can try to just tighten down the shooter assembly to help get it a bit more consistent?

My theory is after each plunge, the tip of the plunger winds up in a slightly different spot or the next ball does. Idk...

#2537 9 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I know the replacement ramp will help my plunger issues, but currently, it's inconsistent.
Sometimes it plunges really well and sometimes it does not so maybe the ramp isn't as much of a factor as I figured it to be. Perhaps I can try to just tighten down the shooter assembly to help get it a bit more consistent?
My theory is after each plunge, the tip of the plunger winds up in a slightly different spot or the next ball does. Idk...

No.

#2538 9 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I know the replacement ramp will help my plunger issues, but currently, it's inconsistent.
Sometimes it plunges really well and sometimes it does not so maybe the ramp isn't as much of a factor as I figured it to be. Perhaps I can try to just tighten down the shooter assembly to help get it a bit more consistent?
My theory is after each plunge, the tip of the plunger winds up in a slightly different spot or the next ball does. Idk...

Does the same inconsistency occur when the auto auto-launcher launches the ball?

#2539 9 months ago
Quoted from MarZ_78:

Does the same inconsistency occur when the auto auto-launcher launches the ball?

No. The auto plunger seems consistently weak.

#2540 9 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

No. The auto plunger seems consistently weak.

My full shooter lane troubleshooter, repeated again. This is pretty much everything that can possibly go wrong with the shooter and/or autoplunger.

Believe me when I tell you the answer lies within.

===========

Check the Shooter - There is a lot that can go wrong with the shooter. Check that the shooter tip isn’t torn OOTB. Check that it plunges manually well, autoplunges well, and that shooting “empty” does not make the chest forks jump. If there are issues here:
Confirm the shooter lane rails are flat and parallel. One rail higher than the other (or a speed bump in one) can cause issues. It may need to be removed and straightened.

- Ensure the ball travels the entire wireform without clicks - If it clicks when it crosses the horizontal bars, you will need to get a replacement. Some folks have managed to grind the crossbars to eliminate the ball impact if you want to go that way.
Ensure the autoplunger forks line up left/right with the ball in the lane. If they don’t, add washers to make it so.

- Ensure the plunger tip lines up with the ball. Loosen and move the plunger assembly so it does.

- Ensure the plunger fork lines up with the ball. Add washers if needed so it does.

- Ensure that plunging empty does not make the autoplunger forks jump. If the autoplunger forks are jumping when you plunge empty, the shooter tip is hitting the forks. You may need to adjust the assembly more. If you can’t move it down enough to stop it, you will need to pad the underside of the playfield hooks with something (for example cabinet bumpers or dense weatherstripping.) Relevel if you have to do this.

- Check the aim on the shooter wireform into the orbit - the ball should enter the orbit smoothly and not rattle left/right in the orbit. I have found the sweet spot to be for the metal “tip” of the wireform to land exactly centered between the screw and edge of the “man overboard” plastic. This also prevents stuck balls in the man overboard area.

#2541 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Ensure that plunging empty does not make the autoplunger forks jump. If the autoplunger forks are jumping when you plunge empty, the shooter tip is hitting the forks. You may need to adjust the assembly more. If you can’t move it down enough to stop it, you will need to pad the underside of the playfield hooks with something (for example cabinet bumpers or dense weatherstripping.) Relevel if you have to do this.

Why shift the entire playfield? My auto plunger did this, so I just put a very small pad where the auto plunger hits the bottom of playfield. That keeps the mech from rotating enough to interfere with the manual plunger, and it doesn't affect the rest of the game at all.

#2542 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

My full shooter lane troubleshooter, repeated again. This is pretty much everything that can possibly go wrong with the shooter and/or autoplunger.
Believe me when I tell you the answer lies within.
===========
Check the Shooter - There is a lot that can go wrong with the shooter. Check that the shooter tip isn’t torn OOTB. Check that it plunges manually well, autoplunges well, and that shooting “empty” does not make the chest forks jump. If there are issues here:
Confirm the shooter lane rails are flat and parallel. One rail higher than the other (or a speed bump in one) can cause issues. It may need to be removed and straightened.
- Ensure the ball travels the entire wireform without clicks - If it clicks when it crosses the horizontal bars, you will need to get a replacement. Some folks have managed to grind the crossbars to eliminate the ball impact if you want to go that way.
Ensure the autoplunger forks line up left/right with the ball in the lane. If they don’t, add washers to make it so.
- Ensure the plunger tip lines up with the ball. Loosen and move the plunger assembly so it does.
- Ensure the plunger fork lines up with the ball. Add washers if needed so it does.
- Ensure that plunging empty does not make the autoplunger forks jump. If the autoplunger forks are jumping when you plunge empty, the shooter tip is hitting the forks. You may need to adjust the assembly more. If you can’t move it down enough to stop it, you will need to pad the underside of the playfield hooks with something (for example cabinet bumpers or dense weatherstripping.) Relevel if you have to do this.
- Check the aim on the shooter wireform into the orbit - the ball should enter the orbit smoothly and not rattle left/right in the orbit. I have found the sweet spot to be for the metal “tip” of the wireform to land exactly centered between the screw and edge of the “man overboard” plastic. This also prevents stuck balls in the man overboard area.

It can definitely be because of the wireform. On my first wireform the ball would hit the mounting tab and was inconsistant 80% of the time. I did most of the normal fixes you listed and still had some issues prolly 70% gone. Then I found out the last 20% or so of the issues were ball hitting wireform slowing down plunge..Look closely at the mounting tabs and the weld on the wireform. Ill see if I can get a pic of old wireform to show you what im talking about

#2543 9 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

It can definitely be because of the wireform. On my first wireform the ball would hit the mounting tab and was inconsistant 80% of the time. I did most of the normal fixes you listed and still had some issues prolly 70% gone. Then I found out the last 20% or so of the issues were ball hitting wireform slowing down plunge..Look closely at the mounting tabs and the weld on the wireform. Ill see if I can get a pic of old wireform to show you what im talking about

Did you grind down the wireform, or just order a replacement?

#2544 9 months ago

jjp kindly sent a replacement

#2545 9 months ago

I appreciate the effort guys. I really would like to get this figured out so I'll do everything I can to figure out the inconsistency. Like maybe take a picture of the ball prior to every plunge and did figure out if it's good or not. If it is, was the ball in a different spot?

My girlfriend put the idea in my head that *possibly* the ball travels slightly different on each plunge. If it hits the damaged area then bad plunge. Otherwise, good plunge.

I'm not sure how much effort I want to spend on it if the rail is more responsible than I realize because I'm still pending a replacement.

Again, the auto plunges always seem weaker, but I'll pay attention to this when I start multi balls or something.

Am I correct in thinking/assuming the autoplunger will not quite be as powerful as a manual plunge, by design? Or should they be pretty equal?

Thanks again.

#2546 9 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I appreciate the effort guys. I really would like to get this figured out so I'll do everything I can to figure out the inconsistency. Like maybe take a picture of the ball prior to every plunge and did figure out if it's good or not. If it is, was the ball in a different spot?
My girlfriend put the idea in my head that *possibly* the ball travels slightly different on each plunge. If it hits the damaged area then bad plunge. Otherwise, good plunge.
I'm not sure how much effort I want to spend on it if the rail is more responsible than I realize because I'm still pending a replacement.
Again, the auto plunges always seem weaker, but I'll pay attention to this when I start multi balls or something.
Am I correct in thinking/assuming the autoplunger will not quite be as powerful as a manual plunge, by design? Or should they be pretty equal?
Thanks again.

Ok not calling this Groundhog Day but you already Fixed this once and went through this same deal many months ago? In your post #1330 you even pride yourself on fixing it 100%?? What happened since then or what did you last do to undo your working plunger.

#2547 9 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Ok not calling this Groundhog Day but you already Fixed this once and went through this same deal many months ago? In your post #1330 you even pride yourself on fixing it 100%?? What happened since then or what did you last do to undo your working plunger.

Thanks for pointing this out. I had to go find that post to revisit what I said. So in that post I was referring to plunging dry. I think at the time I figured the "only thing" that mattered was the forks not moving when plunging, but turns out there are other factors then just that.

#2548 9 months ago

I am moving my BP motor woes from the owner's thread over to over here.

Basically, for those who have not seen my issue, my BP does not move either during a game or in test modes. I've made sure everything mechanically speaking is fine and the pearl does move when i manually spin the motor disc that the rod is connected to. All fuses good and everything else on J109 I/O is working.

So, I think the issue is either no 12V power is getting to the board, or no 5V power is leaving the board to the motor.

I tested the power into and out of the board (if I did this right...see photos)

If I am correct in my assessment, it looks like I have my 12V going TO the board (testing pin 5-yellow) shows 12-13V (I have my black multimeter lead touching a ground in the cab) but when I test pin 1 (which on my pin is a yellow wire but the yellow connects to a red in the molex connnector downstream) I'm not showing a correct 5V like I think I should.

Please look at my photos and confirm my assessment of the situation or tell me how I'm awry and wrong.

If, indeed, I have my 12V coming in but no power coming out I'm guessing my motor relay board is bad and replacing it is necessary.

Thanks for looking and for helping!

Motor relay board (resized).PNGMotor relay board 12V in (resized).jpgMotor relay board 5V out (resized).jpg
#2549 9 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I appreciate the effort guys. I really would like to get this figured out so I'll do everything I can to figure out the inconsistency. Like maybe take a picture of the ball prior to every plunge and did figure out if it's good or not. If it is, was the ball in a different spot?
My girlfriend put the idea in my head that *possibly* the ball travels slightly different on each plunge. If it hits the damaged area then bad plunge. Otherwise, good plunge.
I'm not sure how much effort I want to spend on it if the rail is more responsible than I realize because I'm still pending a replacement.
Again, the auto plunges always seem weaker, but I'll pay attention to this when I start multi balls or something.
Am I correct in thinking/assuming the autoplunger will not quite be as powerful as a manual plunge, by design? Or should they be pretty equal?
Thanks again.

When you manually plunge do you see the forks of the auto plunge move? This is common with some games. In order to correct this you need to loosen the shooter rod housing (manual plunger) and move it down so the washer on the shooter rod doesnt hit the auto plunger. I had to do this to a few customer's games.

#2550 9 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

I am moving my BP motor woes from the owner's thread over to over here.
Basically, for those who have not seen my issue, my BP does not move either during a game or in test modes. I've made sure everything mechanically speaking is fine and the pearl does move when i manually spin the motor disc that the rod is connected to. All fuses good and everything else on J109 I/O is working.
So, I think the issue is either no 12V power is getting to the board, or no 5V power is leaving the board to the motor.
I tested the power into and out of the board (if I did this right...see photos)
If I am correct in my assessment, it looks like I have my 12V going TO the board (testing pin 5-yellow) shows 12-13V (I have my black multimeter lead touching a ground in the cab) but when I test pin 1 (which on my pin is a yellow wire but the yellow connects to a red in the molex connnector downstream) I'm not showing a correct 5V like I think I should.
Please look at my photos and confirm my assessment of the situation or tell me how I'm awry and wrong.
If, indeed, I have my 12V coming in but no power coming out I'm guessing my motor relay board is bad and replacing it is necessary.
Thanks for looking and for helping![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

your second picture isn't measuring anything as pins 1 and 2 on the relay board are the output to the motor. you would need to have the board plugged in, then test the voltage at the motor itself to see if the relay itself is working.

You are on the right track though.

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Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
$ 239.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Tilttopper
$ 24.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
The MOD Couple
$ 18.95
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