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(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

1 year ago



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There are 3297 posts in this topic. You are on page 49 of 66.
#2401 11 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Page C-135 in the manual.
You can download it from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - Pirates.
LTG : )

Thank you!

1 week later
#2402 11 months ago

PROBLEM:Action button in lockdown bar is not registering or sticking.

SOLUTION:If it's not registering, check that the switch under the button attached to the lockdown bar works.

If the switch works, either ad a glob of hot glue to the bottom of the action button switch to shorten the stroke/lengthen the reach and keep it from sticking, OR just get the stern flipper button from pinball life that seems to solve operational issues with this button.

#2403 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM:Action button in lockdown bar is not registering or sticking.
SOLUTION:If it's not registering, check that the switch under the button attached to the lockdown bar works.
If the switch works, either ad a glob of hot glue to the bottom of the action button switch to shorten the stroke/lengthen the reach and keep it from sticking, OR just get the stern flipper button from pinball life that seems to solve operational issues with this button.

Perfect! I’ll order the Stern. Mine registers but jams down.

#2404 11 months ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

Perfect! I’ll order the Stern. Mine registers but jams down.

Yep, that’s been my experience with the factory button.

#2405 11 months ago

Factory button works fine if you spend 2 seconds to use a dry lube on it. Spend 7 bucks on a new button or 7 bucks on https://www.homedepot.com/p/WD-40-SPECIALIST-10-oz-Dry-Lube-300059/204960991 and have something that you can actually use around the house for squeaky hinges ect....

#2406 11 months ago

What is the link to the "Stern Flipper Button" on Pinball Life?

#2408 11 months ago

I’ve searched the topics and the forum, so apologies if I missed an answer to this one.

My right sling rubber gets stuck behind the moving piece (I don’t know what it’s called). The thing that hits the sling to make it bounce the ball away gets outside of the rubber. It happens more often during multiball.

The top of the L-shaped plastic is correctly positioned so it hits above the rubber. The rubber is seated in the posts where it should be (in the indentations), and the posts are tight. I don’t see any obvious difference between the two slings, but it only happens on the right.

#2409 11 months ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

I’ve searched the topics and the forum, so apologies if I missed an answer to this one.
My right sling rubber gets stuck behind the moving piece (I don’t know what it’s called). The thing that hits the sling to make it bounce the ball away gets outside of the rubber. It happens more often during multiball.
The top of the L-shaped plastic is correctly positioned so it hits above the rubber. The rubber is seated in the posts where it should be (in the indentations), and the posts are tight. I don’t see any obvious difference between the two slings, but it only happens on the right.

I call that one a "hammer escape." I haven't been able to fully eliminate it, but using "Perfect Play" rubbers on the slings has reduced it greatly. I also switched to double star posts and run the lower rung (because I have thick gummy washers under them.)

LTG also mentioned throwing a nut inside the coil sleeve to reduce the travel of the sling, if you want to go that route.

#2410 11 months ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

My right sling rubber gets stuck behind the moving piece (I don’t know what it’s called). The thing that hits the sling to make it bounce the ball away gets outside of the rubber. It happens more often during multiball.

Try a size smaller rubber ring.

Quoted from zaphX:

LTG also mentioned throwing a nut inside the coil sleeve to reduce the travel of the sling, if you want to go that route.

That was for chipping on MMR playfields very early, and for trap door on Dialed In. I don't know if it will help with this issue.

LTG : )

#2411 11 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Try a size smaller rubber ring.

Does that mean a ring that’s tighter on the sling, or rubber with a smaller diameter?

#2412 11 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Try a size smaller rubber ring.

That was for chipping on MMR playfields very early, and for trap door on Dialed In. I don't know if it will help with this issue.
LTG : )

First thought I was going crazy, then I found the post. Still applicable advice?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/39#post-5134499

#2413 11 months ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

Does that mean a ring that’s tighter on the sling,

Tighter on the sling.

LTG : )

#2415 11 months ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

I’ve searched the topics and the forum, so apologies if I missed an answer to this one.
My right sling rubber gets stuck behind the moving piece (I don’t know what it’s called). The thing that hits the sling to make it bounce the ball away gets outside of the rubber. It happens more often during multiball.
The top of the L-shaped plastic is correctly positioned so it hits above the rubber. The rubber is seated in the posts where it should be (in the indentations), and the posts are tight. I don’t see any obvious difference between the two slings, but it only happens on the right.

It comes with 2 1/2" rings on the sling. Try 2 1/4" and finally 2" rings if 2 1/4" doesn't solve it.

You want the translucent ones. Both sizes are here:
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=52

#2416 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

It comes with 2 1/2" rings on the sling. Try 2 1/4" and finally 2" rings if 2 1/4" doesn't solve it.
You want the translucent ones. Both sizes are here:
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=33&product_id=52

If you want to try PerfectPlay too, I checked my order history...these are the ones I bought:

https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-2-12-silicone-rubber-ring.html

I normally swear by Titans, I got those specifically due to hammer escapes (and ball-eating slingshots) after the star post change.

#2417 11 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

If you want to try PerfectPlay too, I checked my order history...these are the ones I bought:
https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-2-12-silicone-rubber-ring.html
I normally swear by Titans, I got those specifically due to hammer escapes (and ball-eating slingshots) after the star post change.

Yeah, I prefer perfectplay in general, especially on flippers. But I think JJP was using titans, so trying to keep it stock-ish.

#2418 11 months ago

Perfectplay rubbers were nice but seemed to wear out a bit fast. About every 3 months I have to change out my left star map rubber due to breaking. When im doing that one I normally replace the slingshots too as they start to get a bit stretchy. Most other rubbers have been rock solid. Did a order for black friday for Titans to compare. Prolly going to do a rubber swap this weekend

#2419 11 months ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

I’ve searched the topics and the forum, so apologies if I missed an answer to this one.
My right sling rubber gets stuck behind the moving piece (I don’t know what it’s called). The thing that hits the sling to make it bounce the ball away gets outside of the rubber. It happens more often during multiball.
The top of the L-shaped plastic is correctly positioned so it hits above the rubber. The rubber is seated in the posts where it should be (in the indentations), and the posts are tight. I don’t see any obvious difference between the two slings, but it only happens on the right.

Widening the gap between sling posts worked for me. Take the rubber off, pull the 3 posts as far apart as possible and tighten down well. Suggest putting Titan silicone rubber rings under the posts to avoid any damage to soft clear and help prevent them from moving again under tension. You can also pull and tighten up one-by-one with the rubber on. You shouldn’t have to use a smaller rubber vs. original factory ones .

#2420 10 months ago

Has anybody experienced pooling/chipping under the posts on the BP mini playfield? Has anybody filed a claim to get a replacement?

#2421 10 months ago

Lifted the hood on POTC yesterday to check out a switch, and found these two items sitting in the bottom of the cabinet. These weren't there a month ago.
Any ideas where they come from? Both were in the back right of the cabinet. I haven't messed with the BP. She's been working flawlessly.

IMG_4290 (resized).jpg
#2422 10 months ago

The plastic washer might be the spacer for the bp mech. Goes between backboard and rod that attaches bp to mech. Hard to tell but looks about right size. Screw could be a bunch of things. Maybe check the pop up post mechs. They have an adjustment screw on them that can somewhat easily come loose.

#2423 10 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

The plastic washer might be the spacer for the bp mech. Goes between backboard and rod that attaches bp to mech. Hard to tell but looks about right size. .

Nope the Nylon Thick Bushing is where it should be on the backside (good guess though) and the front side bronze bushing is fine as well. I did figure out that the screw is exactly the type used to hold the circuit boards to the underside of the playfield. Checked every one of those, and all were where they were supposed to be.

Another thing... while doing an overall search for where the washer might have come from - I found the Opto for the Port Royal orbit had NO BACK and was dislodged. I could not find the back anywhere, but simply put the opto back into the 1/2 housing, and then put both back into the opto hole in the metal guide under the Maelstrom. See pics.

And finally - During the inspection I found ALL FOUR screws that hold the transformer into the cabinet were 3/4 backed out. One was 1 thread away from falling out. I'll chalk this up to the Shaker Motor. I'm not so sure these ultra intricate games need such a violent shaker motor? As Pete Townshend once said..."just a little is enough". ; )
IMG_4296 (resized).JPGIMG_4298 (resized).JPGIMG_4292 (resized).jpg

#2424 10 months ago
Quoted from Mr_G_Hosting:

I did have the frustrating audio pops.
Solved it by unplugging this connector.
My headphones don’t work anymore but the sound over the speakers is crystal clear now.[quoted image]

OMG!!! I found this fix, just tried it...and it WORKED!!!!
This has been an unbelievably annoying and disappointing issue since day 1 for me.

THANK YOU A MILLION!!!

I would upvote your post a thousand times if I could...

=) =)

#2425 10 months ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Lifted the hood on POTC yesterday to check out a switch, and found these two items sitting in the bottom of the cabinet. These weren't there a month ago.
Any ideas where they come from? Both were in the back right of the cabinet. I haven't messed with the BP. She's been working flawlessly.[quoted image]

I think it came out the rising forks chest mech. There are 4 guides for the forks (2 on each side) consisting of 4 screws, 4 metal sleeves, 4 nylon spacers, and 4 nylon washers. One probably popped out, you should have a sleeve and a spacer around somewhere if those are the parts...

B6A71508-E3F3-4F6F-ACF8-23610592698F (resized).jpeg
#2426 10 months ago
Quoted from Izzy24:

I think it came out the rising forks chest mech. There are 4 guides for the forks (2 on each side) consisting of 4 screws, 4 metal sleeves, 4 nylon spacers, and 4 nylon washers. One probably popped out, you should have a sleeve and a spacer around somewhere if those are the parts...[quoted image]

Thanks Izzy! I will check into this.
Regards,
Murph

#2427 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM: Autoplunger is inconsistent and frequently fails to launch past the “hill.”
SOLUTION: This may be one of a couple things.
First, observe how the ball is resting on the autoplunger. If it’s not resting centered or almost centered between the two uprights of the auto launch mechanism, there may be too much side-side play in the autoplunger. You can tweak this by adding a washer.
Second, check the vertical alignment of the rod going into the autoplunger coil. This should be entering the coil without an angle; if it’s slanted try slightly bending the metal bracket to bring it in line so it can move freely without friction.
Third, see if the ball moves freely through the metal ball guide that goes up and over onto the playfield. It may be making contact with a weld instead of riding only on the rail guides, robbing the ball of power.
Finally check the shooter lane rails, I found my right rail is ever so slightly lifted at the back of the lane, causing balls to contact the locker post and bounce back. Backing the autolaunch power down 2-3 points from default may make your auto-plunges consistent.

vireland

Point #3 ... "It may be making contact with a weld instead of riding only on the rail guides"

Here's a photo.
Where I have highlighted, there is a very noticeable bump or clunk as it passes over that horizontal bar.

But how to fix?
Screen Shot 2020-01-06 at 1.36.44 AM (resized).png

#2428 10 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

vireland
Point #3 ... "It may be making contact with a weld instead of riding only on the rail guides"
Here's a photo.
Where I have highlighted, there is a very noticeable bump or clunk as it passes over that horizontal bar.
But how to fix?
[quoted image]

Is the bump coming from the welds holding the crossbar or are the bottom two guides too high for the ball? Which of the two issues are causing the bad ball travel?

#2429 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Is the bump coming from the welds holding the crossbar or are the bottom two guides too high for the ball? Which of the two issues are causing the bad ball travel?

That's a very good question. I don't know!

EDIT:
But I see what you're saying.. let me take a closer look.

Wait... Do you see it? Looks to be a flat spot on the right side where I have highlighted and I didn't originally notice this. Time to feel the rails...

Actually... it looks to be on BOTH sides .. there is a very audible gap/clunk sound as the ball passes over this. Video available if requested.

#2430 10 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

That's a very good question. I don't know!
EDIT:
But I see what you're saying.. let me take a closer look.
Wait... Do you see it? Looks to be a flat spot on the right side where I have highlighted and I didn't originally notice this. Time to feel the rails...

Really, shooting a slo-mo video with an iphone from a number of angles is a great diagnostic tool for this kind of thing to see what's actually happening in real time.

#2431 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Really, shooting a slo-mo video with an iphone from a number of angles is a great diagnostic tool for this kind of thing to see what's actually happening in real time.

Agreed. It's a bit too late at the moment to do this unfortunately.

#2432 10 months ago

But in the meantime, hopefully/maybe this video will illustrate what I'm talking about...

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WMXja4uYKU3QZ8EuAcn7-_4pquc_-cA9

#2433 10 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

But in the meantime, hopefully/maybe this video will illustrate what I'm talking about...
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WMXja4uYKU3QZ8EuAcn7-_4pquc_-cA9

Yeah, doesn't help much. I can hear the clicking, but your finger's in there and the angle's too directly above and far away. A lower side slo-mo angle would be better for diagnosing...tomorrow's another day...

#2434 10 months ago

The clicking shouldn't be happening right?

I'll take a slow motion video from the side in a few hours when I get a chance.

#2435 10 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

The clicking shouldn't be happening right?
I'll take a slow motion video from the side in a few hours when I get a chance.

No, it shouldn't. Slo-mo of an actual launch, close range, no finger.

Preferably from a side view.

#2436 10 months ago

Screw it ... here ya go!

Looks like the same area where the ball noticeably slows down...
(Launch around 25s in)

https://drive.google.com/open?id=12P8-N5ucMpbNdlNEmatKexEhhM5W_PKJ

#2437 10 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Screw it ... here ya go!
Looks like the same area where the ball noticeably slows down...
(Launch around 25s in)
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12P8-N5ucMpbNdlNEmatKexEhhM5W_PKJ

What happens well before or well after doesn't really matter. You need to be much tighter to the area in question, and shooting from just above the figure on the barrel because from this angle, the contact seems to happen behind the light blocking the sightline to the area.

#2438 10 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

What happens well before or well after doesn't really matter. You need to be much tighter to the area in question, and shooting from just above the figure on the barrel because from this angle, the contact seems to happen behind the light blocking the sightline to the area.

Okay.

I'll try again in a bit. Thanks!

#2439 10 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

vireland
Point #3 ... "It may be making contact with a weld instead of riding only on the rail guides"
Here's a photo.
Where I have highlighted, there is a very noticeable bump or clunk as it passes over that horizontal bar.
But how to fix?

I had this same problem. Some pinsiders have ground that horizontal bar down. I asked for and got a replacement from JJP under warranty. It is an easy swap.

#2440 10 months ago

The CE I bought also has the flat spot clicking issue. The shooter lanes are out of stock currently.

C0B17092-B7E9-4E2A-BB0C-59254A3ED427.jpeg
#2441 10 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The CE I bought also has the flat spot clicking issue. The shooter lanes are out of stock currently.[quoted image]

So we can pretty much agree this is what it is then?

I better adjusted the tip in the center, and the forks, and all that - same result. I’m pretty sure this was a day 1 thing that I just simply didn’t notice.

#2442 10 months ago

I e-mailed Shannon and we'll see what happens.

Back to playing for now... =)

#2443 10 months ago

I was hoping someone could help me on a new issue I’m experiencing. At random times during gameplay the spotlights cut out and the flippers stop working. Inserts and back box stay operational. Once the ball that was in play drains, the game responds by turning spotlights back on and posting something on the back box screen, like end-of-ball bonus, or mystery award. I shared two youtube video links of two occurrences below. Any ideas on what’s wrong?

#2444 10 months ago
Quoted from Struwwelpeter:

Any ideas on what’s wrong?

I'd reseat ball trough opto boards, and to the opto driver board, and to I/O board in the head.

Sounds like 12 volts drops, effecting spot lights and optos in ball trough, so I'd reseat 12 volts connectors in back box too.

LTG : )

#2445 10 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd reseat ball trough opto boards, and to the opto driver board, and to I/O board in the head.
Sounds like 12 volts drops, effecting spot lights and optos in ball trough, so I'd reseat 12 volts connectors in back box too.
LTG : )

Thanks. I’m a newbie (first pin) so I’ll have to look on youtube for videos on how to “reseat” circuit boards but at least I have a idea of what to try.

#2446 10 months ago

By reset I think LTG means to unplug the connector on the boards he mentioned and then plug them back in. This should be done with the game off.

#2447 10 months ago
Quoted from Struwwelpeter:

I was hoping someone could help me on a new issue I’m experiencing. At random times during gameplay the spotlights cut out and the flippers stop working. Inserts and back box stay operational. Once the ball that was in play drains, the game responds by turning spotlights back on and posting something on the back box screen, like end-of-ball bonus, or mystery award. I shared two youtube video links of two occurrences below. Any ideas on what’s wrong?

If reseating doesn't take care of the problem, go to the system menu, tests, switches, skip the first screen to bring up the switch matrix screen. With the white post inside left just inside the coin door frame pulled out (so flippers have power), and flip the flippers aggressively and smack the playfield with the palm of your hand and see if you can get the GI to go out and see of a bank of switches goes off on the test screen.

#2448 10 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

By reset I think LTG means to unplug the connector on the boards he mentioned and then plug them back in. This should be done with the game off.

Oh cool, thanks.

Quoted from vireland:

If reseating doesn't take care of the problem, go to the system menu, tests, switches, skip the first screen to bring up the switch matrix screen. With the white post inside left just inside the coin door frame pulled out (so flippers have power), and flip the flippers aggressively and smack the playfield with the palm of your hand and see if you can get the GI to go out and see of a bank of switches goes off on the test screen.

Awesome, thank you too! It’ll help now having some more options to tackle the problem. I appreciate the help from everyone.

#2449 10 months ago

vireland please add to the index!

PROBLEM: The Depths shoots the ball into the one way gate at the I lane, causing unstoppable drains.
SOLUTION: I tried playing with various settings on the VUK, nothing helped. I returned it to default and taped the one way gate out of the way. Success, not one single drain. So I took a closer look at the gate, and my wife pointed out that the wireform for it was rubbing the light post (see pic.)

I removed it and snipped off a little bit, just enough to keep it from rubbing. This resolved the problem for me.

6B074BF9-316F-4199-8477-CE8D3DF0976D.jpeg
#2450 10 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

vireland please add to the index!

Done!

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