So I'm a little embarrassed to ask, but looking at the flipper bat, how do you loosen it to adjust it? on my Gottlieb SMB, the nut is on the top. I'm having the same problem with the SDTM shot not hitting the 3rd flipper. Thanks
Quoted from Heater:Perfect. And much thanks!
When you tighten it, be careful not to overdo it. The two metal pieces should not touch.
Quoted from Hogey:Haven't seen this issue mentioned. Received my Pirates a week ago. Great game. Had a couple small issues that my distributor was all over and took care of. One issue I still have is the monitor not being level. After I "lock" the monitor in place (meaning the brackets on the left and right side are pushed down and engage the "posts" on the monitor), the monitor is not level (lower on the right side). There is "slop" or "play" if you will (meaning that the monitor can still move up and down and back and forth even though it is supposedly locked. I've tried to wedge some foam under the right side of the monitor to jack it up and that has helped some, but it's not right. Anyone else have this problem? A friend has a DI and advised that that monitor has 2 posts on each side that are engaged by the brackets, which alleviates the problem. Not sure what to do about it.
Several have experienced this problem and it has been discussed in the main JJPOTC club thread, some with more and less success just messing with the JJP mounting hardware. I had no success adjusting the factory hardware and had to use a wooden wedge solution to solve it:
So I started having some issues with the black pearl today. Speed ramps up very fast and only lists left and level doesnt seem like it hits right. During ship test full motion is there but the opto switches are not triggering properly I think. when ship right, right opto is triggered. when test left both optos are triggered. I think I'm getting a false opto trigger before it gets to center and throws it back left. Guess its time to remove her. Has anyone had a issue similar?
Quoted from wesman:Ooooh. So no ship removal, eh? (Though I've already taken it off twice.).
Have you had your plastic under the ship creak at all?Have you used this type before? I'd imagine it's more flexible than the other?
Did you ever get that playfield into the lock bar receiver? How did you fix it?
Quoted from GnarLee:So I started having some issues with the black pearl today. Speed ramps up very fast and only lists left and level doesnt seem like it hits right. During ship test full motion is there but the opto switches are not triggering properly I think. when ship right, right opto is triggered. when test left both optos are triggered. I think I'm getting a false opto trigger before it gets to center and throws it back left. Guess its time to remove her. Has anyone had a issue similar?
Put the pf into service position one and run the test to see if it will work properly. I had this same issue and the wiring loom was interfering with the ship drive mechanism. I Had to make sure loom was pushed out of the way when putting the pf back in.
No in service position both Optos inner and outer are being triggered in the left position. I do not remember it being like this when I went through initial testing. After I do a calibration it will change too so pulled a couple thing and reassembled. Did a calibration and had same results. Did a second calibration and now nothing triggers on left. Outer triggers on home and nothing on right but if I bump it a hair it will trigger
Ya I dont know what I did but it is working properly again. Switches are still weird from what I remember, but it is working properly. Maybe the loom was catching it somehow.
Quoted from KornFreak28:Did you ever get that playfield into the lock bar receiver? How did you fix it?
I loosened and removed screws in the lockdown bar assembly, and the receiver, until I could loosen and shift the three main nuts that turn into "buttons" on the front of the cabinet. I slid it over just a bit to the left, and refastened those three main bolts. The three woods screws at the bottom of the receiver assembly will most likely be left out, rather than drill or drive new holes into the front of the cabinet.
I still need to reassemble the lockdown bar assembly, and make sure the lockdown bar itself can fit in appropriately, but I'm waiting to do that for a bit while installing some Cliffy's and waiting on parts/tools.
Thank you for inquiring. If you have any other questions, feel free to fire away.
Quoted from wesman:I loosened and removed screws in the lockdown bar assembly, and the receiver, until I could loosen and shift the three main nuts that turn into "buttons" on the front of the cabinet. I slid it over just a bit to the left, and refastened those three main bolts. The three woods screws at the bottom of the receiver assembly will most likely be left out, rather than drill or drive new holes into the front of the cabinet.
I still need to reassemble the lockdown bar assembly, and make sure the lockdown bar itself can fit in appropriately, but I'm waiting to do that for a bit while installing some Cliffy's and waiting on parts/tools.
Thank you for inquiring. If you have any other questions, feel free to fire away.
Good to hear! Test fitting the lock down bar should not be a time consuming thing. Fingers crossed it fits!
Quoted from BC_Gambit:Good to hear! Test fitting the lock down bar should not be a time consuming thing. Fingers crossed it fits!
Or having the playfield hooks sit without spending two hours. I have no idea if it left like that or was jostled during shipping. Certainly an issue I didn't forsee.
Now the monitor sag I still need to correct, yeah....that I'm not surprised by. Not pleased, but not surprised either.
Thank you for the good vibes!
Quoted from PinMonk:Is your flipper working again yet?
Thanks for following up.
Not yet. I did acquire a roll pin punch set as I realized pushing it through by hand is about impossible.
I have a buddy I met on here with 4 machines I think and never ran into this flipper issue. I definitely feel like I’m in the minority with this one.
I also picked up a z driver set which will hopefully give me the clearance I need to get at those 2 screws in the upper mounting bracket as, like you said, it’s much easier to assemble the flipper assembly outside the machine.
I did try to replace the roll pin and when I asked someone at Home Depot he literally had no clue what I was talking about. Moreover, they didn’t even sell them. I kinda felt proud in this moment. I told him it was for a pinball machine and he looked at me kinda crazy.. haha
Having said all that, I simply have not yet invested any additional time on it yet.
I still feel like I got a “good” machine. I think. So I’m trying to simmer down my dialogue a bit.
I have the auto-plunger issue as well. Seems REALLY common at this point.
I’ll definitely follow-up again with hopefully some positive news.
Quoted from Hogey:Haven't seen this issue mentioned. Received my Pirates a week ago. Great game. Had a couple small issues that my distributor was all over and took care of. One issue I still have is the monitor not being level. After I "lock" the monitor in place (meaning the brackets on the left and right side are pushed down and engage the "posts" on the monitor), the monitor is not level (lower on the right side). There is "slop" or "play" if you will (meaning that the monitor can still move up and down and back and forth even though it is supposedly locked. I've tried to wedge some foam under the right side of the monitor to jack it up and that has helped some, but it's not right. Anyone else have this problem? A friend has a DI and advised that that monitor has 2 posts on each side that are engaged by the brackets, which alleviates the problem. Not sure what to do about it.
One other small issue, is that when my machine arrived, one of the lanterns on the mini ship deck was broken off and loose on the playfield. JJP sent me a new lantern, but the problem is that it broke off at the base (leaving the "peg" in the hole with no way to get it out). See pics. I removed the two screws on the plastic above it thinking this would remove it so I could get at it from below, but no such luck.
Thank you.
Hogey
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Talked to JJP today. Was advised that the "arm" that holds the monitor is defective. They had sporadic issues of this previously. They're sending a new arm to fix the problem. Adjusting the brackets was not a fix for this particular problem.
Quoted from joseph5185:What’s a habitrail?
In this case the shiny chrome guide rails that take the ball onto the playfield.
Quoted from Hogey:Talked to JJP today. Was advised that the "arm" that holds the monitor is defective. They had sporadic issues of this previously. They're sending a new arm to fix the problem. Adjusting the brackets was not a fix for this particular problem.
Glad you called and got feedback! Whom did you speak with there? I need to make a call myselt. Thank you for posting this prior to me getting this "fixed" but seemingly not fixed. Phew!
Quoted from joseph5185:What’s a habitrail?
So my playfield is seated now, receiver installed, but now the lockdown bar won't raise fully while trying to insert it.
This causes the door to not close, as well as the yellow handle pointing all the way down, and even a smidge to the left, so it's hitting coin mech wires, and brushes against them while trying to close to door, which doesn't full close/lock.
I've read this might be an issue with the gap I have in the glass not sliding into the trim channel. There is an 1/8" visible gap between the glass and the channel. I've also read adjusting the lockdown bar screws or even pressing down on the bar and pulling the handle might help....
Ugh.
This yellow handle seems way too far out to close. I'm afraid it's due to having to adjust the receiver to the left. Not sure. Playfield glass still has a gap and doesn't slide into the trim though.
You can move the entire receiver up or down too - I think I’m way too late with advice on this one but there’s lots of things to adjust if needed
Quoted from heni1977:wesman I will take a look at mine tonight see if I can help out!
Thank you sir! It's appreciated.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:You can move the entire receiver up or down too - I think I’m way too late with advice on this one but there’s lots of things to adjust if needed
I hadn't noticed that. Even on Pirates? You mean regarding the three large bolts that extend out to the front of the cabinet? What effect might that have?
Quoted from PinMonk:Heh, Munsters was 2 days. Dialed In was about a month before I knew it was too flawed to be long-term. Hobbit was about the same. Usually if you're still digging a pin after 2 months, you're safely out of the honeymoon period.
Damn, 2 days!? lol Wow! I played it too. It was..."fun" (kinda)
"Dialed In was about a month before I knew it was too flawed to be long-term."
Before you "knew?"
I found this interesting...
You can raise or lower the entire receiver assembly which would help with getting the lockbar on over the glass if needed
Quoted from Pinballomatic:You can raise or lower the entire receiver assembly which would help with getting the lockbar on over the glass if needed
Quoted from Pinballomatic:Remove the 1/4 inch shipping screws on either corner they are just for shipping to hold extra tight
The bar fits over and sits fine, it initially didn't due to one of the tabs being bent. This is more an issue of the lockdown bar when engaged, sitting straight down and to the left.
I removed those, to shift the receiver to the left. At that point I wasn't able to meet their holes, so had left them out. I ran that by Lloyd, and Eric too the other night, to make sure they weren't weight bearing in any way.
I don't have a photo right now of the handle when engaged, but it's basically straight down, and a few degrees to the left, towards the coin op mech. When engaged, should it be straight down entirely or pointing towards the plunger a bit?
Quoted from Pinballomatic:Remove the 1/4 inch shipping screws on either corner they are just for shipping to hold extra tight
Wait...what?
Seriously!??
I am pretty sure that's were mine sits as well. Do you have a pic of these shipping screws they are discussing now. I don't think I removed those either.
Quoted from heni1977:I am pretty sure that's were mine sits as well. Do you have a pic of these shipping screws they are discussing now. I don't think I removed those either.
I definitely didn't...
They’re in the bottom left and right corners and unlike the foam behind the field, you do not have to remove them
Quoted from Pinballomatic:They’re in the bottom left and right corners and unlike the foam behind the field, you do not have to remove them
I figured not.
Still interesting though...
Thanks!
Quoted from Pinballomatic:[quoted image]
Yeah, mine is drastically pointing down almost straight.
Feeling kinda clueless as to correct this.
Quoted from wesman:This was it when I received it. It's around the same now.
Yours is definitely off. Will it move further counterclockwise with the lockdown bar removed?
Random question ...
There is a molex connector that doesn't have a friend (unplugged) towards the bottom of the coin door.
What's that about?
Quoted from AUKraut:Yours is definitely off. Will it move further counterclockwise with the lockdown bar removed?
From what I recall, that position there is about the furthest to the left it will go...
Eek, sorry I think I was confused there. When it's not engaged it goes up this far.
Quoted from joseph5185:Random question ...
There is a molex connector that doesn't have a friend (unplugged) towards the bottom of the coin door.
What's that about?
From what I know, it's there for the bill collector add-on.
20190417_122327 (resized).jpgQuoted from zaphX:My hands This machine shipped with very bent rails, and I was instructed to carefully_ bend them down and apart (by hand) so they would hug the shooter lane.
Apparently there was some slight deviation between the two which was causing the mis-plunges. They lined up better after I re-bent them today.
So, to confirm, you weren't having issues with the ball hitting the auto-plunge forks when you were plunging taking away your power?
I'm curious if anyone is having issues with balls getting stuck under BP with this loom:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FW388KV
I could always order both to be safe or the other, but just curious.
I haven't had this issue, but my game is also at 7 instead of 6.5 so there's that...
(This will get fixed)
Quoted from joseph5185:Random question ...
There is a molex connector that doesn't have a friend (unplugged) towards the bottom of the coin door.
What's that about?
For dollar bill payment or ticket dispenser, etc.
Quoted from f3honda4me:For dollar bill payment or ticket dispenser, etc.
And for the record, unlike Sterns, which are still 115v systems, the bill acceptor plug on JJP machines is 12v. Uses a totally different model bill acceptor.
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