(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

7 months ago



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#101 7 months ago

PROBLEM: Black Pearl cannon access gate unexpectedly closes when hitting a flipper.

SOLUTION: The Pearl gate is designed to close when it senses a switch hit on the lower playfield outside of multiball. Somewhere a switch is likely gapped incorrectly causing a switch to activate when it should not. Go into switch test and create vibration on the playfield to see which one is misbehaving, and adjust the gap on the corresponding leaf. It is highly recommended to use a leaf switch adjustment tool for this and perform the adjustments as close to the switch base as possible. Using other tools may bend or twist the switch.

#102 7 months ago

PROBLEM: Autoplunger is inconsistent and frequently fails to launch past the “hill.”

SOLUTION: This may be one of a couple things.

First, observe how the ball is resting on the autoplunger. If it’s not resting centered or almost centered between the two uprights of the auto launch mechanism, there may be too much side-side play in the autoplunger. You can tweak this by adding a washer.

Second, check the vertical alignment of the rod going into the autoplunger coil. This should be entering the coil without an angle; if it’s slanted try slightly bending the metal bracket to bring it in line so it can move freely without friction.

Third, see if the ball moves freely through the metal ball guide that goes up and over onto the playfield. It may be making contact with a weld instead of riding only on the rail guides, robbing the ball of power.

Finally check the shooter lane rails, I found my right rail is ever so slightly lifted at the back of the lane, causing balls to contact the locker post and bounce back. Backing the autolaunch power down 2-3 points from default may make your auto-plunges consistent.

#103 7 months ago

PROBLEM: During multidrain in a multiball, a ball gets lost in the subway. Ball search happens and eventually the missing ball is released from The Depths.

SOLUTION: The plastic edge of the subway is a bit too wide. This is easily corrected by replacing a screw with a post to hold the edge in. Parts to fashion this post are easily found at hardware stores. Use a #8 2 inch screw, a 1 inch spacer and a 2 inch spacer. This has been fixed with a running change at the factory and is done on all machines assembled since approx mid-January 2019 already.

Post with detailed picture of the mod here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/50#post-4758736
subway-post (resized).jpg

subway-post2 (resized).jpg
#104 7 months ago

PROBLEM: Screen appears washed out and colors fail to pop.

SOLUTION: Remove the backbox glass. There are two wooden latches that hold the monitor in place; loosen and twist them out of the way. Then lift the metal latches to the left and right of the monitor to pull it out. It’s on a reticulating arm so this is simple. Monitor adjustment controls are on the back. On the brightness and contrast page set DCR to ON, and set the color page to sRGB.

This setting is not infallible, however. To get a good picture on another machine DCR had to be set to OFF, brightness to 50% and contrast to 100%. Color sRGB.

Pinsider ronaldvg found good manual settings:

"I tweaked the settings of the monitors (DCR Off, Brightness 41, Contrast 50, Color setting on USER R50, G50, B50) and they now look exactly the same, much less washed out. If you look in the attract mode of POTC there is a screen with just the number of the LE, rest is black. Make sure that screen looks as black and the lettering as white as possible."

#105 7 months ago

Building the arsenal guys..

Picked up a Z-driver because that’s a thing?

A pick set.

A telescopic magnetic pick-up tool.

New hex set.

And some other goodies.

LET’S DO THIS!!!

#106 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Okay, replying to myself on this one. I did this, and I would say the improvement is definite, but it's not really as much as it needs to be so I can't really recommend doing it. You don't have to drill out the plastic post because the piece on top is metal (forgot about that), so you end up having to bevel the hole so the flat screw rests lower, and even though you gain about 2mm and it's not pressing into the ramp as much, the edge of the metal top is still pressing on the back of the black pearl ramp. The ramp should have been further away from the metal top on that sling or the metal top should have been about 4mm further in.
So, I'm glad I did it, but I don't really recommend doing it, especially because you have to physically change the metal cover with the bevel to do it.

Bummer; I will keep my eye out for super low profile machine screws when I am out today, or early this week.

#107 7 months ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Bummer; I will keep my eye out for super low profile machine screws when I am out today, or early this week.

I got the one I used at Ace Hardware. It's hillman brand. Had to go 8-32 2" since they only had 1 1/2" and 2", no 1 3/4".

#108 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM: Autoplunger is inconsistent and frequently fails to launch past the “hill.”
SOLUTION: This may be one of a couple things.
Finally check the shooter lane rails, I found my right rail is ever so slightly lifted at the back of the lane, causing balls to contact the locker post and bounce back. Backing the autolaunch power down 2-3 points from default may make your auto-plunges consistent.

Just to update this, I just removed my shooter lane and gently bent the rails until they were true with each other. This appears to have resolved the issue at last!

#109 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Just to update this, I just removed my shooter lane and gently bent the rails until they were true with each other. This appears to have resolved the issue at last!

When you say "bent the rails" are you talking about the auto launch forks or the guides on the habitrail?

#110 7 months ago

PROBLEM: Your LE topper is off-center
SOLUTION: Remove the backglass. Using a nut driver, remove the nut in the top of the backbox. Put towels down over the playfield glass, unlock the backbox and lower it down gently. Using a flat screwdriver, remove the black plastic plugs and press them out from behind, taking care not to scratch the topper. Set the backbox upright again and lock it in, then remove the topper screws and topper. Finally, remove the two black screws from the topper bracket and remove the bracket. Measure and drill new holes (I fit my drill bits into the existing holes to size them correctly.) Finally reassemble everything.

IMG_0239 (resized).jpegIMG_0819 (resized).jpegIMG_0820 (resized).jpegIMG_0821 (resized).jpegIMG_0822 (resized).jpeg
#111 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

I got the one I used at Ace Hardware. It's hillman brand. Had to go 8-32 2" since they only had 1 1/2" and 2", no 1 3/4".

Nice, I picked up a selection of 2 inch screws, I will wait until maybe next weekend to mess with it.

#112 7 months ago

Here is my patented trough tape fix, I may do something that looks better but I swear my game is level but balls were shooting out the trough into the cabinet.

This works, but suggests I need to check something else (I tried Lloyd's tips re: adjusting the ball trough exit, and that helped but it went from 1 in 10 times to like 1 in 20 to 30 times...).

I two pieces of clear gorilla tape oriented such that the inside of the trough is not sticky, neither is the outside. Then I layered more tape on for strength.

Fixed for now...

trough tape fix (resized).jpg
#113 7 months ago

Here is another fix of the day; I noticed my Devil's Triangle spinner wasn't laying flat; I thought i may need a touch of lubrication (which I added) but it was actually rubbing on some wires to the left of it.

Left unchecked this eventually would have caused some issues (potentially shorts as the end of the spinner chewed through the lighting and opto wires).

My fix was to use several zip ties to hopefully keep these wires out of the way.

devils triangle fix (resized).jpg

#114 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

When you say "bent the rails" are you talking about the auto launch forks or the guides on the habitrail?

Guides on the habitrail.

#115 7 months ago

Following!

#116 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Guides on the habitrail.

Can you take a picture and point out what area you adjusted?

#117 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Can you take a picture and point out what area you adjusted?

Not taking it apart again. I pulled out the shooter wireform, bent the 2 rails in the shooter lane to remove irregularities between the two, and put it back in.

#118 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Not taking it apart again. I pulled out the shooter wireform, bent the 2 rails in the shooter lane to remove irregularities between the two, and put it back in.

What tool did you use to bend the rails?

#119 7 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What tool did you use to bend the rails?

My hands This machine shipped with very bent rails, and I was instructed to carefully_ bend them down and apart (by hand) so they would hug the shooter lane.

Apparently there was some slight deviation between the two which was causing the mis-plunges. They lined up better after I re-bent them today.

#120 7 months ago

PROBLEM: Machine is DOA or loses power during gameplay
SOLUTION: Check the computer plug on the back of the machine (behind the safety plate if it's installed) and make sure it's firmly plugged in. If it's loose it can cut power to the machine.

#121 7 months ago

PROBLEM: Ball sticking under the chest
SOLUTION: Feel under the chest and see if the tips of the chest forks are above the playfield when retracted. Either adjust the screw on the bottom of the mechanism under the playfield so the forks sit lower, or add a washer below the chest mech at the lower left screw to adjust the angle just enough to correct the issue.

#122 7 months ago

PROBLEM: Plunges or shots into the right orbit go SDTM

SOLUTION: What you want here is that orbit to feed the right flipper. Adjust the upper flipper so when it's at rest it's out a few millimeters more than currently. Loosen the pawl nut, move it outward a few millimeters and tighten it back. Do not tighten so much that the two metal sides of the flipper bracket touch.

#123 7 months ago

PROBLEM: Left Black Pearl flipper spring is breaking or stretching frequently

SOLUTION: Check the wiring going up to the Pearl. In one case, wires were found to have rubbed off the insulation and grounded against metal which energized and destroyed the spring. Recommend plastic wire loom around this wiring to protect it.

#124 7 months ago

PROBLEM: Balls getting stuck in the round hole under the Pearl by the wiring harness

SOLUTION: Two possibilities for this.

Tip 1
Buy a plastic shield for the underside of the black pearl that prevents the ball from bouncing back and getting under the Black Pearl.

Tip 2
Bundling this wire loom plastic to gather the wires together will protect the wires from wear and possibly stop balls from getting stuck there.

This loom product on Amazon may help you achieve this:
amazon.com link »
Or this kind:
amazon.com link »

#125 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM: Balls getting stuck in the round hole under the Pearl by the wiring harness
SOLUTION: Two possibilities for this.
Tip 1
Buy a plastic shield for the underside of the black pearl that prevents the ball from bouncing back and getting under the Black Pearl.
Tip 2
Bundling this wire loom plastic to gather the wires together will protect the wires from wear and possibly stop balls from getting stuck there.
This loom product on Amazon may help you achieve this:
amazon.com link »

Should the cable ties be snipped when installing this loom, or be kept as they are?

How long-ish would you recommend cutting and using for this implementation?

Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM: Tortuga saucer sending the ball SDTM
SOLUTION: Most likely the ball deflector/guide at the back of the Tortuga saucer is loose or mis-aligned. Remove Tortuga Tom and loosen the pop bumper to gain access to the two phillips screws for the deflector that's slightly under the pop bumper skirt. Aim the guard a bit to the left. Test and ensure the scoop fires into the middle of the left flipper. Consider blue loctite to make the fix permanent.
Here's how you get the pop bumper apart to gain access to the two screws:
This is the deflector that you may need to tighten and/or adjust the direction it's pointing:
[quoted image]
These are the screws you need to tighten once the deflector is where you want it:
[quoted image]
There's a single #1 phillips screw each at the front and back of the barrel you need to remove:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Once the barrel is off, you see a mounting plate, but the hex set screw that holds it on is hidden underneath it. Feel for it and use a hex wrench to loosen it, then slide the mounting plate up and off:
[quoted image]
This is a better look at the set screw once the plate is off:
[quoted image]
There are now two motor screws to remove. READ THE NEXT STEP BEFORE DOING THIS ONE:
[quoted image]
Under each screw holding the motor on, there's a nylon spacer. Be careful to hold the spacer as you lift the screw out so you don't lose the spacer in the machine:
[quoted image]
Lift the motor up a bit and set it to the side, which will expose the screws for the pop bumper. LOOSEN, DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Once loose, you can raise the skirt in the front where the two screws are for the deflector and tighten/adjust as-needed:
[quoted image]
Reverse the process to put it all back together.

These are the same steps to install the Cliffy, yes?

#126 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Should the cable ties be snipped when installing this loom, or be kept as they are?
How long-ish would you recommend cutting and using for this implementation?

I did not cut anything to install the loom. I eyeballed the amount of cable, cut off a length of loom to match, and installed it from under the playfield sliding it up. 2 minute fix and avoids a potentially serious problem.

#127 7 months ago

I like this kind of wire loom, also.

amazon.com link »

#128 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM: Plunges or shots into the right orbit go SDTM
SOLUTION: What you want here is that orbit to feed the right flipper. Adjust the upper flipper so when it's at rest it's out a few millimeters more than currently. Loosen the pawl nut, move it outward a few millimeters and tighten it back. Do not tighten so much that the two metal sides of the flipper bracket touch.

I adjusted my flipper so that the ball doesn't go SDTM, but still hits the GOLD targets if you hold the upper flipper up. It can be tricky to achieve both of these at the same time.

#129 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I did not cut anything to install the loom. I eyeballed the amount of cable, cut off a length of loom to match, and installed it from under the playfield sliding it up. 2 minute fix and avoids a potentially serious problem.

Ooooh. So no ship removal, eh? (Though I've already taken it off twice.).

Have you had your plastic under the ship creak at all?

Quoted from rs812:

I like this kind of wire loom, also.
amazon.com link »

Have you used this type before? I'd imagine it's more flexible than the other?

#130 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Ooooh. So no ship removal, eh? (Though I've already taken it off twice.).
Have you had your plastic under the ship creak at all?

Nope, I have not removed this ship at all for any reason, knock on wood. No creaking either.

#131 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Have you used this type before? I'd imagine it's more flexible than the other?

I have and it works great. It is much more forgiving than the corrugated plastic. I think it looks better, too.

#132 7 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

I have and it works great. It is much more forgiving than the corrugated plastic. I think it looks better, too.

I like it too!

#133 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Nope, I have not removed this ship at all for any reason, knock on wood. No creaking either.

Oh good for you! It's not the worst thing, if you end up needing to, it's more a pain in the ass freeing and pulling the proper wire bundles underneath apart for the first time. Then the dreaded resetting of the ship on the eyelets, which have been pretty cruddy both times I've done it.

Quoted from rs812:

I have and it works great. It is much more forgiving than the corrugated plastic. I think it looks better, too.

Excellent! So I assume you got the 1" and 10 feet of it? I can see where the mesh would allow less friction. Cancelled the order of the other I just put in an hour ago, and will get this.

#134 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Oh good for you! It's not the worst thing, if you end up needing to, it's more a pain in the ass freeing and pulling the proper wire bundles underneath apart for the first time. Then the dreaded resetting of the ship on the eyelets, which have been pretty cruddy both times I've done it.

Excellent! So I assume you got the 1" and 10 feet of it? I can see where the mesh would allow less friction. Cancelled the order of the other I just put in an hour ago, and will get this.

I did have to pull the pearl on my friend's CE to solder wires OOTB so I know what it's about.

BTW One reason I went with the wide plastic corrugated stuff was to plug the hole so balls would stop getting stuck there.

#135 7 months ago

Ok so I worked at addressing my inconsistent ball plunge issues, Dauntless all of a sudden getting stuck and ball getting stuck on devils triangle rollover. Rollover was bent down a bit so ball could not catch easy fix. Dauntless I found it was catching on the top deck. Removed deck added 4 #6 nylon washers between bracket and decking to raise it ~1mm problem solved. Ball plunge issue I found a different fix that didnt require me to raise playfield. So when I was looking at the whole mech I noticed quite a bit of play in the auto plunge left and right. Maybe 4-5 times out of 10 my plunge would be off. I saw that when the auto plunge was in the rightmost position it would hit somewhere. If I moved it to the left it did not hit plunger. Also the ball sat 2-3mm farther back in shooter lane with it to the left. So to fix I put 2 1/4" nylon washers on the pin on the right hand side to get rid of the play in the auto plunge. Have plunged maybe 50 balls since and had 1 bad plunge. will get a pic or 2 up shortly

#136 7 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Ok so I worked at addressing my inconsistent ball plunge issues, Dauntless all of a sudden getting stuck and ball getting stuck on devils triangle rollover. Rollover was bent down a bit so ball could not catch easy fix. Dauntless I found it was catching on the top deck. Removed deck added 4 #6 nylon washers between bracket and decking to raise it ~1mm problem solved. Ball plunge issue I found a different fix that didnt require me to raise playfield. So when I was looking at the whole mech I noticed quite a bit of play in the auto plunge left and right. Maybe 4-5 times out of 10 my plunge would be off. I saw that when the auto plunge was in the rightmost position it would hit somewhere. If I moved it to the left it did not hit plunger. Also the ball sat 2-3mm farther back in shooter lane with it to the left. So to fix I put 2 1/4" nylon washers on the pin on the right hand side to get rid of the play in the auto plunge. Have plunged maybe 50 balls since and had 1 bad plunge. will get a pic or 2 up shortly

That'd be great. I'll add it to the potential inconsistent auto plunge being inconsistent solutions.

#137 7 months ago

Haven't seen this issue mentioned. Received my Pirates a week ago. Great game. Had a couple small issues that my distributor was all over and took care of. One issue I still have is the monitor not being level. After I "lock" the monitor in place (meaning the brackets on the left and right side are pushed down and engage the "posts" on the monitor), the monitor is not level (lower on the right side). There is "slop" or "play" if you will (meaning that the monitor can still move up and down and back and forth even though it is supposedly locked. I've tried to wedge some foam under the right side of the monitor to jack it up and that has helped some, but it's not right. Anyone else have this problem? A friend has a DI and advised that that monitor has 2 posts on each side that are engaged by the brackets, which alleviates the problem. Not sure what to do about it.

One other small issue, is that when my machine arrived, one of the lanterns on the mini ship deck was broken off and loose on the playfield. JJP sent me a new lantern, but the problem is that it broke off at the base (leaving the "peg" in the hole with no way to get it out). See pics. I removed the two screws on the plastic above it thinking this would remove it so I could get at it from below, but no such luck.

Thank you.

Hogey

IMG_3032 (resized).jpgIMG_3033 (resized).jpgIMG_3035 (resized).jpgIMG_3036 (resized).jpgIMG_3037 (resized).JPGIMG_3039 (resized).jpg
#138 7 months ago
Quoted from Hogey:

Haven't seen this issue mentioned. Received my Pirates a week ago. Great game. Had a couple small issues that my distributor was all over and took care of. One issue I still have is the monitor not being level. After I "lock" the monitor in place (meaning the brackets on the left and right side are pushed down and engage the "posts" on the monitor), the monitor is not level (lower on the right side). There is "slop" or "play" if you will (meaning that the monitor can still move up and down and back and forth even though it is supposedly locked. I've tried to wedge some foam under the right side of the monitor to jack it up and that has helped some, but it's not right. Anyone else have this problem? A friend has a DI and advised that that monitor has 2 posts on each side that are engaged by the brackets, which alleviates the problem. Not sure what to do about it.
One other small issue, is that when my machine arrived, one of the lanterns on the mini ship deck was broken off and loose on the playfield. JJP sent me a new lantern, but the problem is that it broke off at the base (leaving the "peg" in the hole with no way to get it out). See pics. I removed the two screws on the plastic above it thinking this would remove it so I could get at it from below, but no such luck.
Thank you.
Hogey
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I know yelobird posted, along with others, in the other thread, to pull the monitor forward, loosen the four nuts on the mounting bracket, readjust and tighten.

#139 7 months ago
Quoted from Hogey:

Haven't seen this issue mentioned. Received my Pirates a week ago. Great game. Had a couple small issues that my distributor was all over and took care of. One issue I still have is the monitor not being level. After I "lock" the monitor in place (meaning the brackets on the left and right side are pushed down and engage the "posts" on the monitor), the monitor is not level (lower on the right side). There is "slop" or "play" if you will (meaning that the monitor can still move up and down and back and forth even though it is supposedly locked. I've tried to wedge some foam under the right side of the monitor to jack it up and that has helped some, but it's not right. Anyone else have this problem? A friend has a DI and advised that that monitor has 2 posts on each side that are engaged by the brackets, which alleviates the problem. Not sure what to do about it.
One other small issue, is that when my machine arrived, one of the lanterns on the mini ship deck was broken off and loose on the playfield. JJP sent me a new lantern, but the problem is that it broke off at the base (leaving the "peg" in the hole with no way to get it out). See pics. I removed the two screws on the plastic above it thinking this would remove it so I could get at it from below, but no such luck.
Thank you.
Hogey
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'd carefully drill into the peg with a small bit, screw in a screw and use that to pull it out (assuming it's not glued in).

#140 7 months ago

Thanks for the help. I'll get at them tomorrow. Much appreciated.

-5
#141 7 months ago

Man these machines are junk with a huge price tag

#142 7 months ago
Quoted from Clint12:

Man these machines are junk with a huge price tag

It could be worse. The cabinets could be splitting, the boards blowing up, and the playfield cratering all over the place. Those are MUCH worse issues, IMO, but the fact is, EVERY manufacturer, every pin, has its specific issues. ALL of them.

But, no other pin has the level of specific fix-it tips that jjPotC has in this thread to help owners navigate new ownership.

#143 7 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Building the arsenal guys..
Picked up a Z-driver because that’s a thing?
A pick set.
A telescopic magnetic pick-up tool.
New hex set.
And some other goodies.
LET’S DO THIS!!!

Is your flipper working again yet?

#144 7 months ago

Thanks to all for gathering all the info! Well done

#145 7 months ago
Quoted from Clint12:

Man these machines are junk with a huge price tag

And yet, the people who own them have them bolted to the floor and love them.

#146 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

And yet, the people who own them have them bolted to the floor and love them.

Still in the honeymoon period, but it impresses in some way every time so far, and that's a good sign. Unbelievably good machine with incredible production values. The video production and musical themes are much better than what I've seen of Wonka so far, and there's a great game under the glass to match.

#147 7 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Still in the honeymoon period, but it impresses in some way every time so far, and that's a good sign. Unbelievably good machine with incredible production values. The video production and musical themes are much better than what I've seen of Wonka so far, and there's a great game under the glass to match.

I still love playing it every single day. I’m 4 months into ownership. The honeymoon on my first pin (Star Wars) sure wasn’t this long.

#148 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I still love playing it every single day. I’m 4 months into ownership. The honeymoon on my first pin (Star Wars) sure wasn’t this long.

Heh, Munsters was 2 days. Dialed In was about a month before I knew it was too flawed to be long-term. Hobbit was about the same. Usually if you're still digging a pin after 2 months, you're safely out of the honeymoon period.

#149 7 months ago

Great thread, thanks!

So, I have almost all problems on my LE sorted out by now. One thing that still bothers me is that the ball coming out of the devils triangle hits the left slingshot and bounces off like crazy instead of the left flipper. I tried to bend the rail, but I just can't figure out how. Anyone else with this problem?

Also, coming down the p-lane, out of the subway, the ball sometimes can't pass the gate and drains. Not so funny either...

#150 7 months ago

After a successful canon shot is shaker motor suppose to engage ?

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