Yep I made a very slight ding

I have a slight delay or hesitation mostly on left flipper and super hard to hit extra ball. Any ideas.?

Do I need to maybe increase coil settings

I have the problem with Dauntless ship hull hitting the Dauntless top deck, when swinging. I should figure out a way to put the top deck a bit further up.
With reference to the tip above, I presume the washers are placed in the front of the backplate? But I do not understand how it would raise the top deck - it just brings it forward? Can you please explain further? Thanks! Other tips for raising the top deck are welcome of course too.

Removed a stupid question ...

Here is youtube-video of the problem:

I tried adding 1 x washer for each of the screw, but it did not provide any help, please see the attachment.

IMG_6715 (resized).JPG

Yes - and thank you, bending did the trick atleast for now!

sound issue: my game seems to have a lot less trebble when compared to my WOZ game. should they be comparable sound wise?

Im starting to have the same probelm. 3 balls not releasing. After about 10 15 seconds,, they release. Did anyone have a solution for this one?

It's usually all in the release arm. Put the game in test mode, I think it will release balls if there are any in the chest so you can easily test by dropping them in there. Make sure the release arm is free from obstructions. Test the movement of it. It can be bent gently to adjust it. Also check the alignment of the solenoid on the back, it can twist and can also have a loose screw on the back.

Is it possible to adjust the stroke length of a slingshot? I noticed today my playfield's left-slingshot's bracket moves too far forward when activating and makes contact with the table, gouging it My right slingshot works great and doesn't contact the table.

left_slingshot_activated (resized).png

right_slingshot (resized).png

You can toss a nut down the coil sleeve. That would limit the plunger travel. Works great on coils that are straight up or down when the game is being played. And if you ever work on it, you might remember why it's in there. If you stick a longer plunger in there and some day replace the plunger, you'll likely forget a longer one is in there and put the original one back in and have the problem again.

LTG : )

nutdrop (resized).JPG

nutdrop1 (resized).JPG

My left slingshot twice now has had the rubber go over top where the slingshot is stuck on outside of rubber......any idea how to fix this or is your nut inside sleeve work for this.

The nut will take away to much and the sling won't work well.... just add a small washer ..this will be enough to stop the issue.

I am still struggling with this myself. I have read that magnetized balls can cause this, though mine are new as of about 25 games ago... I also tried adjusting to the coil release length in settings... didn’t seem to solve either

I'd try a one size smaller ring first.

LTG : )

Stock posts or star?

stock

Hmmmm. Ok. Try turning slings down to minimum and put the replacement titan slings on. Maybe yours have been stretched. Also try perfectplays.

My wife was playing and ball got stuck on upper playfield.. after looking it was the spotlight that was hitting the ball and top or the right flipper.

So added a lock washer with Blue Loctite, then still had to bend up the metal so that it didn't hit. I added the washer as to not have to bend the light up too high where it didn't hit the back of upper playfield...so now light is still directed down like it was intended to.

IMG-4419 (resized).JPG

IMG-4420 (resized).JPG

IMG-4421 (resized).JPG

IMG-4422 (resized).JPG

IMG-4423 (resized).JPG

IMG-4426 (resized).JPG

You threw me with the WOZ photo

He wanted to show you his new WoZ custom glued down Pirates apron!

I threw in a 6-32 nylon lock nut, and it's the perfect size. Thanks for the tip!

Question for this thread. I am having inconsistent firing of the ship VUK. If I land it in the hole from the shooter lane, it doesn't always register. Lift up the machine and it fires, but tilt warnings. Tried messing with the opto, checked to see if the ball is getting stuck. Anyone else have this problem?

Hard to describe but a local friend had the same issue granted his game was set up Steep at close to 8 degrees. Feeding the VUK going backwards is a clear plastic flap. His was slightly bent up. A small heat source like a hair dryer and I was able to bend it down slightly and stay and the problem went away. Hope this helps.

Yes, that helped! I put in a couple of small washers to increase the incline of the plastic ramp and flap--back to 100%. It must have been getting caught on the plastic when balls landed gently at the VUK drop. I was looking at the optos and they were fine. Thanks!

I'm having a problem where during Multiball, I may end up with 2 or 3 balls in The Depths. The game will try and try to eject a ball, but usually it fails. Eventually the game times out or I end it by going into the menu. It is quite simple to eject all of the balls with the coil test, but during the game, they get stuck. Inevitably, this happens during a good game, so I lose out on a good score. Any advice? Thanks

Sounds like a flaky switch or opto. Look underneath and make sure the switche(s) are tight and the optos are all in place

I always increase the strength on the trough up-kicker.

There is a problem with multiple balls going into the depths. They get stuck because the subway plastic before the depths kicker is stretched by all the balls in there and they block each other’s entrance to the kicker metal enclosure. They get stuck. So you need to narrow the plastic subway slightly, by adding a post next to the subway pushing the walls in slightly.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/3#post-4941279

I actually just asked JJP support for the post and screw. They know if this problem.

Thanks to JordanB for posting how to access the Tortuga hole deflector plate....I finally installed the Cliffy yesterday. 1st time I tried to install it I failed.

Also posted this in the Official fan club, but figured it needed to go here.

Underneath, you need to back-off the nuts but don't have to take them all the way out, plus Disconnect the Spinning Motor for extra wire to be available.

IMG-4469 (resized).JPG

IMG-4470 (resized).JPG

Now, 1st time I took the cap off I undid the screws on top....don't do it as the one screw under the arm is a pain to put back in....Just need an Allen Wrench to go through hole that takes cap and plate off.

IMG-4471 (resized).JPG

take both screws off motor, then I had to remove the screws inside holding the white pop plastic, but just leave screws inside cap

Also, the 2 plastic spacers you have to be careful they don't fail into back of playfield...happened the 1st time and took a while to get the damn things.

IMG-4472 (resized).JPG

IMG-4473 (resized).JPG

IMG-4474 (resized).JPG

now you're able to angle the pop assembly on angle to get to plate screws

IMG-4475 (resized).JPG

IMG-4476 (resized).JPG

I put a towel down and put a magnet to catch any possible screws falling

IMG-4477 (resized).JPG

IMG-4479 (resized).JPG

IMG-4481 (resized).JPG

Now I put the deflector plate back in but forgot where it was positioned as mine always hit the left flipper, but if you look on top of your defector it should have wear ...where it hit the bottom of the wire form ramp, so that was good as I knew where it had to be position wise.

Also, I used blue tape to hold those stupid designed white spacers to keep them from falling....once you get the screws in the hole, just screw them in a little bit then pull blue tape off

IMG-4483 (resized).JPG

IMG-4485 (1) (resized).JPG

DONE !!!! NOW I just need to do the Depths as that looks like a PIA....If anyone has install directions and pics that would be great

IMG-4486 (resized).JPG

IMG-4491 (resized).JPG

you are correct I was referring to Depths.

I did the Map hole, and my mylar was coming up on the back right corner, so I probably should have removed it as you can see a little of the mylar lifting. Also was concerned that cliffy might come up due to loose mylar...but so far so good.

When you do your MAP hole, someone posted that you need to remove the 3 standup targets for MAP....you don't have to...the Cliffy slides right over the targets.

I'm having an issue with my Load Cannon door not opening. If I manually push on the metal flap the coil connects to, it moves fine and will work for a bit, but then it'll get stuck again at some point. I've also had the spring that attaches to the gate come off twice now, which might be related?

I've tried manually triggering the Cannon Door coil in the tests and it does not open until I push it myself, and then it works fine for a while. Stealing the image from another post in here, the red square is the part that I can push on to make it work for a while, and the blue square is the where the spring is falling off (from the top).

All the parts here seem to move freely when I touch them, and since it works fine after I touch it, it's been really hard to debug. Has anyone had a similar problem or have any insights into what could be going wrong? This has been happening on/off since I got the game. I originally thought it was the metal gate getting caught on the left plastics, and that was a problem until I put a washer in, from the tip in post #1531, but now it's definitely not hitting that.
pasted_image (resized).png

I had to do work on my door since it wasn’t closing at all out of the box. I had to bend the main metal arm (that connects from the coil to the spring at the door) to a different angle and I put a washer on, but I put the washer on the right hand side (looking from the front of the machine). Mine was getting hung up only on that right hand side. If your washer is on the left, maybe try moving it to the right? One other thing I found on mine was that the roof above the door was also causing it to stick for some reason. I’m still not sure why or how. All I know is I made my adjustments to bend the arm and add the washer with the roof off and got it working 100%, then when I put the roof back on it would get stuck open again.

I took the roof on and off a few times to retest, and the only difference between sticking and not sticking was the roof being on. So I finally put the roof back on, but didn’t push it down all the way and just lightly put the nuts back on. I set it in with the front of the roof a little higher than the back and it’s worked 100% since then. If your issue isn’t the coil or the angle of the main arm, maybe switching washer sides and/or letting the front of the roof sit just a bit higher could work. Hope this helps.

I think I'm dense with this cannon door thing. I think I'm seeing similar issues but for some reason, I'm not sure. How do I know if the door is working properly? My only clue is that my ball sometimes squeezes under it before "light fuse" is lit and the ball sort of tumbles out of the cannon. Obviously, that can't be right. My door "sort of" has three positions. All the way up (which seems to work most of the time it should, when "light fuse" is lit), partway closed (which is where it lives the majority of my games and when the ball can squeeze under it or get stuck for a moment), and all the way down (which I rarely, if ever see). Is the cannon door supposed to have that full range of motion or should it be in that half-way state? Once I wrap my head around that, I can better piece together what parts I'm supposed to swivel/bend etc.

I think in a perfect world it’s supposed to be all the way down until the load cannon target is activated and then once it’s activated the door would go all the way up to let the ball go into the cannon. In reality I wasn’t able to get it to that point. I spent a bunch of time on the arm that connects the coil to the door spring trying to slightly bend it in different spots and different amounts. Finally I just went with a result that had the door resting down enough where it definitely blocks the ball when it’s supposed to and it lifts up just barely enough for the ball to pass under without making contact. Not 100% ideal but functional. Here’s a picture of my door closed.

4AEC6D45-6650-4469-A70F-6D569136C8CB (resized).jpeg