When cleaning my game I noticed the post in the Devil’s Triangle did not have a rubber on it? I imagine this is by design... or did they forget from the factory to add one
When cleaning my game I noticed the post in the Devil’s Triangle did not have a rubber on it? I imagine this is by design... or did they forget from the factory to add one
Quoted from wesman:You can't remove the tnut entirely. It seats the one nut, of two, that help hold the Map Snubber Bracket in place. The tnut gives the nut the ability to be threaded and held in place.
Theoretically you could just replace it with a nylock nut and washer.
Quoted from LTG:Tighten the screw the red arrow points to. Squishing the rubber grommet it goes through. Lowering the right side of the ramp so it leans that direction.
LTG : )[quoted image]
I had the same problem Lloyd and that's not the fix. Talked to butch peel and it shouldn't go up and down and move forward and backward having a tech come over Thursday for the fix I'll post update on the fix
Quoted from Soulrider911:When cleaning my game I noticed the post in the Devil’s Triangle did not have a rubber on it? I imagine this is by design... or did they forget from the factory to add one
Are you talking about the post between the P and the I lanes? OR maybe the post under the playfield supporting the subway ramp?
harryhoudini neither there is a post basically directly under the dauntless in the far end of the Devil’s Triangle
Quoted from Soulrider911:harryhoudini neither there is a post basically directly under the dauntless in the far end of the Devil’s Triangle
Ah, if you look at page C-130 in the manual all of the rubber parts are listed and there is not one there for that post. I haven't even figured out what that post is for... haven't pulled the ship or looked closely enough at that side of the playfield.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Ah, if you look at page C-130 in the manual all of the rubber parts are listed and there is not one there for that post. I haven't even figured out what that post is for... haven't pulled the ship or looked closely enough at that side of the playfield.
I always assumed it's to enforce the U-Turn, give the ball something to rocket around
I’m struggling with this spotlight. It is either pushing up the launch ramp if too far to the right or trapping balls beside tortuga Tom. And it goes out all the time from the vibrations. I think I need to take launch ramp off and bend the angle plus maybe put some washers underneath.
This is the culprit. Anybody else had similar issues?
FFC7D8FB-2F8A-4F73-82F2-C86418ADAF1C (resized).jpegQuoted from gumnut01:I’m struggling with this spotlight. It is either pushing up the launch ramp if too far to the right or trapping balls beside tortuga Tom. And it goes out all the time from the vibrations. I think I need to take launch ramp off and bend the angle plus maybe put some washers underneath.
This is the culprit. Anybody else had similar issues?[quoted image]
I have the ball traps as well.
No issues with this spot. Solution: grind the lower end of the spot. Replace 12V bulb and check contact pointe in the lamp spot socket. Remember to use some silicone kit after changing the bulb to secure the bulb in the socket.
Quoted from gumnut01:bloody stupid place for a spot.
That was the First issue I had out of the box. Ball got stuck every hit towards the spot lamp. I ended up rotating it full towards the back and the plastic slightly lifts it up and no longer a ball catch. Its the simple things that can be frustrating. lol
Quoted from Maurice:No issues with this spot. Solution: grind the lower end of the spot. Replace 12V bulb and check contact pointe in the lamp spot socket. Remember to use some silicone kit after changing the bulb to secure the bulb in the socket.
Forget ugly silicone and use the electrical tape fix:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights
Looks better and works great.
Quoted from PinMonk:Forget ugly silicone and use the electrical tape fix:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights
Looks better and works great.
Can confirm, this tip fixed my flaky spots 100%.
Quoted from Yelobird:That was the First issue I had out of the box. Ball got stuck every hit towards the spot lamp. I ended up rotating it full towards the back and the plastic slightly lifts it up and no longer a ball catch. Its the simple things that can be frustrating. lol
Thanks. I tried this before and it lifted the ball launch wireform. Now I have launch issues for the first time. Ball hardly makes it around orbit.
Quoted from gumnut01:Thanks. I tried this before and it lifted the ball launch wireform. Now I have launch issues for the first time. Ball hardly makes it around orbit.
I spent a lot of time (months) troubleshooting ball launch and autoplunger issues and finally resolved them 100%.
Here's what I did (and all of these had an effect):
1. Check your shooter tip and replace it if torn or flattened due to use.
2. Make sure the plunger doesn't contact the autoplunger. If it does, adjust the shooter housing down. Still doing it? Put some kind of padding under the playfield hooks. I used dense weatherstripping foam.
3. Make sure the shooter lane is aimed into the orbit just right. If it's too far left or right, you'll get a ball rattle that robs power.
4. Finally, make sure the shooter lane wireforms are even with each other. In my case, a slight "bump in the road" on one side was causing autoplunge failures even though manual plunges were fine.
After doing all of this, my plunges are lightning fast and rocket around the orbit - I have to use a very light touch now for the skill shot In addition, autoplunges are now 100% reliable.
Quoted from gumnut01:Thanks. I tried this before and it lifted the ball launch wireform. Now I have launch issues for the first time. Ball hardly makes it around orbit.
When I moved that light straight back, the ball would hit the top of the lamp under the wire form so I moved it back to stock position. interestingly enough, I haven’t had a ball get stuck there (yet)
Quoted from zaphX:I spent a lot of time (months) troubleshooting ball launch and autoplunger issues and finally resolved them 100%.
Here's what I did (and all of these had an effect):
1. Check your shooter tip and replace it if torn or flattened due to use.
2. Make sure the plunger doesn't contact the autoplunger. If it does, adjust the shooter housing down. Still doing it? Put some kind of padding under the playfield hooks. I used dense weatherstripping foam.
3. Make sure the shooter lane is aimed into the orbit just right. If it's too far left or right, you'll get a ball rattle that robs power.
4. Finally, make sure the shooter lane wireforms are even with each other. In my case, a slight "bump in the road" on one side was causing autoplunge failures even though manual plunges were fine.
After doing all of this, my plunges are lightning fast and rocket around the orbit - I have to use a very light touch now for the skill shot In addition, autoplunges are now 100% reliable.
Thanks @zaphx. Did not think I had an issue until this damn light but maybe I do. Will check. Auto plunge is quick.
Quoted from tgrinchy:When I moved that light straight back, the ball would hit the top of the lamp under the wire form so I moved it back to stock position. interestingly enough, I haven’t had a ball get stuck there (yet)
Yep. That’s what happened to me. But also I get the stuck ball when move it back. Funny watching it go out every time a ball would shoot past it. I have not experienced that many problems really, but I think JJP could have put better spots in. Just my opinion.
Question for you pirates. Has anyone noticed on their game that the ball sometimes does not make it up to the black pearl?
More specifically it would appear on mine sometimes the magnet may not be releasing the ball correctly and instead of rolling into the subway and into the VUK... ball just rolls around right side orbit
Quoted from Soulrider911:Question for you pirates. Has anyone noticed on their game that the ball sometimes does not make it up to the black pearl?
More specifically it would appear on mine sometimes the magnet may not be releasing the ball correctly and instead of rolling into the subway and into the VUK... ball just rolls around right side orbit
This is controversial since half the people in here preach to decrease it, but I'd try carefully increasing the VUK power until it stops happening.
Fixed the spot. Just got my long nose pliers and bent the thing up a bit. Now in the right spot and does not hinder the ball. Also light is not touching ramp. No more flickering and turning off.
Thanks zaphX it was simply the new tip I put on which was a beige colour so I could see it for skill shots. The tip is slightly pushed off centre. Rotated the rod and works fine now. Will keep an eye on it. May need to go for a more durable tip.
Love the game. Makes me cranky when something goes wrong with it though!!!
Here’s a picture of the bent spot mount. Only needs a little. I think it’s good mounted pointing towards Tortuga. Otherwise it’s pointing into open sea. I like that to stay dark and mysterious!
4D6D6007-30BF-4E60-89D8-099B0B57BD92 (resized).jpegQuoted from gumnut01:Thanks zaphx it was simply the new tip I put on which was a beige colour so I could see it for skill shots. The tip is slightly pushed off centre. Rotated the rod and works fine now. Will keep an eye on it. May need to go for a more durable tip.
Sweet, it was the easiest of the 4 things!
Quoted from zaphX:This is controversial since half the people in here preach to decrease it, but I'd try carefully increasing the VUK power until it stops happening.
I think he's saying that the magnet in the loop doesn't drop the ball directly down to the BP VUK, almost like it misses the VUK and rolls around the inner loop. It doesn't sound like the ball makes it to the VUK coil. I've had that happen on mine when it is was down too low and you can definitely hear the VUK "bang" when it kicks the ball, but it doesn't make it to the top, comes back down and hits the gate and rolls out the loop. If that is what is happening, yeah, increase the VUK power. If not, that'd be a different issue.
And yeah, the issue I brought up prior was the ball getting kicked in to the BP but (what I feel) is without the magnet grabbing it (just getting directed to the VUK by some other force). I could very well be wrong, hard to know exactly and I've found what it seems like could be a few culprits (backboard bracket, opto cutouts, maybe a flexible ball guide, maybe too much flipper power, etc) could be my inexperience. It seems I am in the way minority, so likely either me or an isolated case.
Quoted from zaphX:This is controversial since half the people in here preach to decrease it, but I'd try carefully increasing the VUK power until it stops happening.
Sounds like it’s not even getting to the VUK as Soulrider911 would hear it fire. But I agree with you. Don’t want it too low or no black pearl action. It’s finding the spot between boarding successfully and not bashing into stuff up there.
I have had large delays on rare occasions when it is not boarding or doing anything. This happened all the time when I first got the game because it was not levelled correctly. Too high a pitch will mean that the subway to the black pearl does not work. I have to check whether I have anything that could stop it rolling in the subway.
Yours sounds like it isn’t even making it into the subway. Like the magnet is catching and then releasing back to the open sea. How are your levels? How often does it happen? Would be good to see if you can replicate it.
They definitely do need to adjust how that magnet works in terms of affecting inner loops.
Quoted from harryhoudini:I think he's saying that the magnet in the loop doesn't drop the ball directly down to the BP VUK, almost like it misses the VUK and rolls around the inner loop. It doesn't sound like the ball makes it to the VUK coil. I've had that happen on mine when it is was down too low and you can definitely hear the VUK "bang" when it kicks the ball, but it doesn't make it to the top, comes back down and hits the gate and rolls out the loop. If that is what is happening, yeah, increase the VUK power. If not, that'd be a different issue.
And yeah, the issue I brought up prior was the ball getting kicked in to the BP but (what I feel) is without the magnet grabbing it (just getting directed to the VUK by some other force). I could very well be wrong, hard to know exactly and I've found what it seems like could be a few culprits (backboard bracket, opto cutouts, maybe a flexible ball guide, maybe too much flipper power, etc) could be my inexperience. It seems I am in the way minority, so likely either me or an isolated case.
Damn. You beat me to it.
harryhoudini yes you nailed it, i was referring specifically to the magnet, seems sometimes it does its job well and the ball ends up in the supway and thus the VUK... and other times you hear "come aboard" or whatever... ball never makes it in subway, just rolls around the subway hole in the orbit path. I think it happens when I really nail the shot fast
Just changed my isolator. Made things worse. Now I get a high pitched whine when it starts up. And the pops during gameplay are still there. Would be great if this clipping or popping could be fixed. Alas I don’t think there is any solution.
Here is where I put the isolator. If anyone can tell me what I’m doing wrong, appreciated. At the bottom of cpu box going in green socket . At the top of the box going into purple socket . I think this is for speakers. Or am I doing the head phone one?
Before, isolator behind right speaker
0D9B35EB-336F-4926-95D3-775BB1B51453 (resized).jpeg
After
02617897-9FC0-4276-B814-664EDB960DC4 (resized).jpeg
Where I am plugging from, then to green socket at bottom of cpu
380ED8AB-C478-43AC-91F5-9505A3C26932 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from gumnut01:Just changed my isolator. Made things worse. Now I get a high pitched whine when it starts up. And the pops during gameplay are still there. Would be great if this clipping or popping could be fixed. Alas I don’t think there is any solution.
Here is where I put the isolator. If anyone can tell me what I’m doing wrong, appreciated. At the bottom of cpu box going in green socket . At the top of the box going into purple socket . I think this is for speakers. Or am I doing the head phone one?
Before, isolator behind right speaker
[quoted image]
After
[quoted image]
Where I am plugging from, then to green socket at bottom of cpu
[quoted image]
Which ground loop isolator is that?
Quoted from PinMonk:Which ground loop isolator is that?
Mpow. I thought the one that came with it might be responsible for the clipping. About to change back unless I’m plugging into wrong spots for speakers. Never use headphones.
The isolator won't change the clipping. The only suggestion I've seen for that is to adjust audio levels.
The startup whine it should help with, but I still notice a bit. You can adjust those audio cables while it is turned on. Careful, don't touch anything with them but you can try unplugging and plugging them in to see if any of the connectors are crappy. Try new audio cables, they could be crappy.
If not, here is a mod I just listed. It will prevent all sounds on startup but won't fix anything during the game.
https://magicalproductions.miiduu.com/jjp-startup-pop-eliminator-device
The isolator won't change the clipping. The only suggestion I've seen for that is to adjust audio levels.
The startup whine it should help with, but I still notice a bit. You can adjust those audio cables while it is turned on. Careful, don't touch anything with them but you can try unplugging and plugging them in to see if any of the connectors are crappy. Try new audio cables, they could be crappy.
If not, here is a mod I just listed. It will prevent all sounds on startup but won't fix anything during the game.
https://pinballmods.co/jjp-startup-pop-eliminator-device
Bugger. Will put the other back. This new one added whine that was not there. Was hoping it would fix clipping in game. Shame to have this happen during one of the best game soundtracks ever. It’s like putting shitty frosted glass over a Monet.
Anyway, is the green socket the right one? Can someone confirm?
Quoted from gumnut01:Bugger. Will put the other back. This new one added whine that was not there. Was hoping it would fix clipping in game. Shame to have this happen during one of the best game soundtracks ever. It’s like putting shitty frosted glass over a Monet.
Anyway, is the green socket the right one? Can someone confirm?
Correct, green on the mobo.
Try the audio cables. Try the audio levels for the clipping.
Quoted from gumnut01:The one it came with is this[quoted image]
Excessive fur on that isolator. Clearly the issue!
He loves his pinball! The other day he was walking across my other 3 pins upstairs. Walking confidently on the glass he did not realise Simpson’s in the middle did not have the glass on. Funny seeing a cat get a shock when they “miss the last stair” sort of thing. Cats are funniest when they’re not composed.
Quoted from gumnut01:Bugger. Will put the other back. This new one added whine that was not there. Was hoping it would fix clipping in game. Shame to have this happen during one of the best game soundtracks ever. It’s like putting shitty frosted glass over a Monet.
Anyway, is the green socket the right one? Can someone confirm?
Yes, just manually re-balance the levels between music, fx, and speech so if all are going at the same time it won't clip.
One day JJP will do this in software-it's relatively trivial, but maybe there's some linux-specific programming hurdles I don't know about. It's shocking clipping is still a problem on game 4.
Quoted from PinMonk:Yes, just manually re-balance the levels between music, fx, and speech so if all are going at the same time it won't clip.
One day JJP will do this in software-it's relatively trivial, but maybe there's some linux-specific programming hurdles I don't know about. It's shocking clipping is still a problem on game 4.
Ok will play with. Did a search can’t see anybody has found a sweet spot like you posted with the lcd contrast levels. If someone had some settings they used would be great to post. Should be the same from game to game. It at least a starting point.
Quoted from gumnut01:Ok will play with. Did a search can’t see anybody has found a sweet spot like you posted with the lcd contrast levels. If someone had some settings they used would be great to post. Should be the same from game to game. It at least a starting point.
That assumes all the LCD panels are the same manufacturer. Do we know that?
Quoted from PinMonk:PROBLEM: Screen appears washed out and colors fail to pop.
SOLUTION: Remove the backbox glass. There are two wooden latches that hold the monitor in place; loosen and twist them out of the way. Then lift the metal latches to the left and right of the monitor to pull it out. It’s on a reticulating arm so this is simple. Monitor adjustment controls are on the back. On the brightness and contrast page set DCR to ON, and set the color page to sRGB.
This setting is not infallible, however. To get a good picture on another machine DCR had to be set to OFF, brightness to 50% and contrast to 100%. Color sRGB.
Pinsider ronaldvg found good manual settings:
"I tweaked the settings of the monitors (DCR Off, Brightness 41, Contrast 50, Color setting on USER R50, G50, B50) and they now look exactly the same, much less washed out. If you look in the attract mode of POTC there is a screen with just the number of the LE, rest is black. Make sure that screen looks as black and the lettering as white as possible."
Well you were the one who posted this. I found it useful. So I have to choose which to sacrifice music, effects or speech. Ok will give it a go. Sort of sucks.
Sorry. Not being unappreciative, I know it is a personal thing as to what to sacrifice. And I need to work it out myself. Just don’t want to sacrifice anything!!
Quoted from gumnut01:Well you were the one who posted this. I found it useful. So I have to choose which to sacrifice music, effects or speech. Ok will give it a go. Sort of sucks.
Sorry. Not being unappreciative, I know it is a personal thing as to what to sacrifice. And I need to work it out myself. Just don’t want to sacrifice anything!!
If you balance the sound, it's no sacrifice. Just takes time to get it all balanced just right and it still sounds great.
When this thread started, I posted about 20 or so tech issues that were just collected from the input of others, so even though it shows I posted the screen tip, it's not my tip for most of the "starter" ones that I bulk dumped to get this party started.
Quoted from zaphX:I spent a lot of time (months) troubleshooting ball launch and autoplunger issues and finally resolved them 100%.
Here's what I did (and all of these had an effect):
1. Check your shooter tip and replace it if torn or flattened due to use.
2. Make sure the plunger doesn't contact the autoplunger. If it does, adjust the shooter housing down. Still doing it? Put some kind of padding under the playfield hooks. I used dense weatherstripping foam.
3. Make sure the shooter lane is aimed into the orbit just right. If it's too far left or right, you'll get a ball rattle that robs power.
4. Finally, make sure the shooter lane wireforms are even with each other. In my case, a slight "bump in the road" on one side was causing autoplunge failures even though manual plunges were fine.
After doing all of this, my plunges are lightning fast and rocket around the orbit - I have to use a very light touch now for the skill shot In addition, autoplunges are now 100% reliable.
Agree 100%
This was pretty much my list as well. I did shim my auto launcher to remove the play left and right. First thing I noticed was depending which side the auto was on there was a 2-3 mm difference in where the ball sat. If it was to the left ball plunged fine if it was to the right no power. That got me to 90% good plunges. From there noticed I also had the plunger hitting the auto. 2 tiny pieces if door insulating foam under hangers fixed that up (raised playfield maybe 1mm). We were then at 95% good plunges. Last issue I had was ball hitting wireform at first brace. After 1000 games the ball was still hitting wireform so a smidge of dremel work to just lower and smooth it and now I also have lightning fast plunges. To put it in perspective pop bumper skill shot requires me to pull back maybe a 1/4 inch. Boarding BP is only a few mm past that (cant even see the tip in view window yet) and if you can see the tip of whooter in window it will go all the way around. So a 5% plunge gets me pops a 7% plunge gets me boarding and a 10% plunge will go all the way around. It actually makes the skill shots way harder.
Quoted from GnarLee:Agree 100%
This was pretty much my list as well. I did shim my auto launcher to remove the play left and right.
Oh I forgot, I did that too! So 5 things. I used a washer.
Quoted from PinMonk:If you balance the sound, it's no sacrifice. Just takes time to get it all balanced just right and it still sounds great.
When this thread started, I posted about 20 or so tech issues that were just collected from the input of others, so even though it shows I posted the screen tip, it's not my tip for most of the "starter" ones that I bulk dumped to get this party started.
Turned music down to 50 and everything else down to 20. Still pops and crackles at specific times. Especially during bonus screen after ball is drained. Volume also only on 20.
I don’t understand. Maybe what I am experiencing is not clipping.
So I don’t have an answer. Will contact JJP support and let you know what they say.
Quoted from gumnut01:Turned music down to 50 and everything else down to 20. Still pops and crackles at specific times. Especially during bonus screen after ball is drained. Volume also only on 20.
I don’t understand. Maybe what I am experiencing is not clipping.
So I don’t have an answer. Will contact JJP support and let you know what they say.
Something else is going on. Your levels are way below what I have here. I don't think it's clipping.
Ordered my replacement playfield today, mine is actually not all that bad, so probably hang this one on the wall until i need to do the swap May even send to Ron to get the clear redone.
Quoted from PinMonk:Something else is going on. Your levels are way below what I have here. I don't think it's clipping.
So no one else has the pops and crackles (like small little interrupt hiccups) happening at certain times in the audio?
Quoted from gumnut01:So no one else has the pops and crackles (like small little interrupt hiccups) happening at certain times in the audio?
VERY infrequently I may get one or two on the bonus screen, but that's all I've noticed.
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