Quoted from Maurice:I think it's because no one else has reported this issue. You may have had a one-off badly-welded form for the balls.
This looks so familiar...
Quoted from Maurice:I think it's because no one else has reported this issue. You may have had a one-off badly-welded form for the balls.
This looks so familiar...
Quoted from zaphX:My flipper powers are at defaults and IIRC yes the default has one higher than the other.
On my machine the chest shot is easier to make with the right flipper than the left, and I consider it part of the game design and challenge. It takes a really perfect shot to nail it from the left flipper.
Another example: maelstrom is easier from the right flipper, but -can- be backhanded from the left flipper with difficulty for me. I like having these options and risk/reward scenarios. Part of the amazing design.
Agree. It’s always good to have certain shots that are only achievable from a certain flipper but at the same time have certain shots shareable and most importantly equal importance of each flipper. Nothing worse than having a redundant flipper in a game. I think Eric did a great job. I like having enough outside tip shots for both flippers Devil’s Triangle and depths vs tortuga and extra ball. Then still some challenging closer shots for each flipper, maelstrom and open sea. I still find the left ramp cannot be taken for granted. Then the two easy shots port royal and the BP ramp. I love port royal. Unless that damn post is up. Always a surprise when you hit it for the first time. Like WTF! But in a good way.
Chest is far easier from right, but if I’m concentrating can be flipped from left - just need to clear the upper flipper. I always feel like such a dick when I hit it. Side note bayou is easiest left ball cradled and just keep flipper held up. Pirate target is deadly. Chest as discussed narrows so anything but a sweet spot will bounce around in there and lose momentum. Star map is one of the easiest, as it should be. But needs a good hit or it will not register. Can only be done with left flipper or sometimes top flipper.
Upper flipper is unreal. Eric’s game really shines here. Inner loop, map and gold targets. So much to do and so fun to shoot. Much prefer it to TSPPs. I need to practice getting enough loops going and then hold open to automatically hit lots of gold. HAHAAAA GOLD!!!!
So going back to symmetry great how there’s 2 good ways to feed to the upper flipper during OST Multiball. Chest shot and open sea. One for each flipper. Chest shot I find easier to feed upper flipper. Or just get it somewhere up there and hope upper flipper can reach (not as satisfying).
Black pearl flippers. Loading cannon I mainly use left but do get it with right when I can see sway of ship and movement of ball is all aligned. I do find the only load cannon I can use is the target on the left, while cradling with the left. It does seem to hit the cannon door a lot. Not sure if this will cause maintenance problems later on. I think the load on the right is too hard to hit and mine seems to lack sensitivity. I need to adjust. Cotton is harder to hit than Marty. I need to hit the spot gold and bonus x targets more I seem to ignore these. Sinking ships too much fun. I think the cannon door is meant to be closed even after the load until you hit the cannon door again?
Oh and if I have to collect anyone in the open sea, sometimes I cheat and just let it fall overboard to trigger. Hopefully they don’t remove this cheat in a code update. Shhhhhh.
My pitch is 6.5, did not like steeper due to all balls draining during Multiball. I suck. Both flippers taken down by 2 from default.
No other game has me thinking about how to feed flippers like this one.
Ripping loops is super satisfying. I even like listening to my wife do it when she's playing and I'm on the couch doing other things.
****IGNORE THIS... guess what, the USB drive broke off in the port. I didn't even notice as it's one of those retractable ones. When I went to put it back in I noticed it had no connector anymore. The room was all dark so I didn't notice it in the socket. Pulled it out and game is all good, that one's going in the trash. ******
Anyone experienced a boot loop doing the update? Let me say right up front, I just did an update on two WOZ successfully using the exact same procedure so I am fairly sure I am doing it properly. What happened is that I did the update like normal, system said it was done and I turned the game off. Removed the USB drive and switched on. It looks like it's booting up normal but then I get the *nix boot menu as if I had the USB drive in and the system then goes and updates itself again (same procedure as if the drive were plugged in). I let it finish and turned the game off, waited and then turned it back on, same situation.
I'm waiting for it to finish again and then I am going to put the drive in and see if I will update from the drive and maybe a "redo" will fix it. If not, I will extract the ISO to the same USB drive I used for WOZ to eliminate that. There were no specific errors or issues I saw, it appeared to complete without issue all 3 times it ran the update procedure. Worst case, I'll download the ISO again and re-try. I followed the updating procedures per the website as well.
Quoted from zaphX:Ripping loops is super satisfying. I even like listening to my wife do it when she's playing and I'm on the couch doing other things.
Agree. Better than ripping farts on the couch. Seriously though it seems like the default action for that flipper. So easy to get the loops into muscle memory. Thank Eric for making this happen.
Quoted from gumnut01:Agree. Better than ripping farts on the couch. Seriously though it seems like the default action for that flipper. So easy to get the loops into muscle memory. Thank Eric for making this happen.
As I understand it, he spent quite a bit of time on whitewoods getting the feel of that shot just right. It shows.
Quoted from harryhoudini:****IGNORE THIS... guess what, the USB drive broke off in the port. I didn't even notice as it's one of those retractable ones. When I went to put it back in I noticed it had no connector anymore. The room was all dark so I didn't notice it in the socket. Pulled it out and game is all good, that one's going in the trash. ******
Anyone experienced a boot loop doing the update? Let me say right up front, I just did an update on two WOZ successfully using the exact same procedure so I am fairly sure I am doing it properly. What happened is that I did the update like normal, system said it was done and I turned the game off. Removed the USB drive and switched on. It looks like it's booting up normal but then I get the *nix boot menu as if I had the USB drive in and the system then goes and updates itself again (same procedure as if the drive were plugged in). I let it finish and turned the game off, waited and then turned it back on, same situation.
I'm waiting for it to finish again and then I am going to put the drive in and see if I will update from the drive and maybe a "redo" will fix it. If not, I will extract the ISO to the same USB drive I used for WOZ to eliminate that. There were no specific errors or issues I saw, it appeared to complete without issue all 3 times it ran the update procedure. Worst case, I'll download the ISO again and re-try. I followed the updating procedures per the website as well.
Thanks for destroying the momentum of discussing awesome flipper and flow design Harry. How dare you bring up issues in the troubleshooting thread!!! Sigh.
Well I waited to long and missed out. Can’t find an SE either. Oh well I guess the good news is I still have $8500 in my pocket lol
Yeah, now there is definitely something wrong with the launch. Coil is turned up to 32 now and it barely makes it off the ramp. Seems to have gotten progressively worse. Looking at the ramp I don't think the bottom cross pieces are hitting the ball, but I'll check that out. Any suggestions as to why it may have gotten worse over time? A month ago it was shooting fine, looping around to the left upper flipper no problem. Can't be coil sleeve already, can it? I'm going to inspect the wireform after dinner.
That brings up a good point about hitting the chest lock with the left flipper.
It’s probably not happening much due to flipping too hard and triggering the upper flipper and I always feel like a jackass when I have the ball tun into that upper flipper unintentionally.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Yeah, now there is definitely something wrong with the launch. Coil is turned up to 32 now and it barely makes it off the ramp. Seems to have gotten progressively worse. Looking at the ramp I don't think the bottom cross pieces are hitting the ball, but I'll check that out. Any suggestions as to why it may have gotten worse over time? A month ago it was shooting fine, looping around to the left upper flipper no problem. Can't be coil sleeve already, can it? I'm going to inspect the wireform after dinner.
Bon appetit!
Trying to decide between kraken blades from Tilt vs pirate blades from pingraffix. I think the kraken ones look a bit moodier. The pingraffix might be too bright, too much yellow?
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/pirates-of-the-caribbean-pinblades-jersey-jack-pinball
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-the-kraken-gameblades
Thoughts?
Quoted from gumnut01:Trying to decide between kraken blades from Tilt vs pirate blades from pingraffix. I think the kraken ones look a bit moodier. The pingraffix might be too bright, too much yellow?
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/pirates-of-the-caribbean-pinblades-jersey-jack-pinball
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-the-kraken-gameblades
Thoughts?
I went with the Kraken
Quoted from harryhoudini:Yeah, now there is definitely something wrong with the launch. Coil is turned up to 32 now and it barely makes it off the ramp. Seems to have gotten progressively worse. Looking at the ramp I don't think the bottom cross pieces are hitting the ball, but I'll check that out. Any suggestions as to why it may have gotten worse over time? A month ago it was shooting fine, looping around to the left upper flipper no problem. Can't be coil sleeve already, can it? I'm going to inspect the wireform after dinner.
Is it dragging on the shooter tip? Are the forks still centered on each side of the ball?
Quoted from gumnut01:Trying to decide between kraken blades from Tilt vs pirate blades from pingraffix. I think the kraken ones look a bit moodier. The pingraffix might be too bright, too much yellow?
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/pirates-of-the-caribbean-pinblades-jersey-jack-pinball
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-the-kraken-gameblades
Thoughts?
Just sucks that the Kraken blade art is on the "wrong" side if you have the Kraken mod...
Quoted from PinMonk:Just sucks that the Kraken blade art is on the "wrong" side if you have the Kraken mod...
The kraken should be near the pearl and if I recall the kraken did eventually get he pearl. Why have a kraken next to a kraken on the same side?
Plus the stormy seas tie into the maelstrom scene very well.
Quoted from PinMonk:Is it dragging on the shooter tip? Are the forks still centered on each side of the ball?
As far as I can tell it looks fine. I moved the shooter assembly early on because it was off center on the ball. It's still not exact but there is no more play in the existing holes. The forks look nicely even and centered. I watched a ball launch and it all looked fine. Going to compare to my WOZ (I think they are same or similar mechs) and see if coil test will let me see anything better.
Quoted from Psw757:I’m very happy with them.
I'm leaning to it as well. I think the Pingraffix one is fantastic the way it ties in with the apron, has the sea at the height of the playfield, and probably looks good at the front of the cabinet. But it is a lot of yellow. Maybe they should have transitioned it to stormy weather near the back. I think the kraken is nice and moody.
Will let the wife decide.
Quoted from Trooper11040:Well I waited to long and missed out. Can’t find an SE either. Oh well I guess the good news is I still have $8500 in my pocket lol
There are some SE's out there about 5 i think. there are posts from Distributors selling them unless they're gone and haven't removed link.
Plus, ebay.com link: Pirates of the Caribbean Standard Edition Pinball Machine Jersey Jack In Stock
Quoted from joseph5185:Update on the chest issue...
I think it’s an issue? Only locking balls maybe 25% of the time from what I feel are “valid” shots. A “perfect” shot does seem to lock the ball. I’m just not sure how precise the shot is supposed to be.
So my game was at 5.9 pitch and it is now at 6.5. I lowered the left flipper from 20 to 18 and the right flipper from 22 to 18. Was unable to lock one ball with these settings so changed both back to 20 and can sometimes lock with both flippers.
I’m curious what others have their flippers at if it’s not too much to ask and I’m even more curious if others have the right flipper stronger than the left or vice versa. Is offsetting the flipper power “fairly common/expected” depending on the game?
I really wish I could get this chest accepting balls at even a slight improvement. It’s just difficult to gage what adjustment needs to be made to the forks. I tried to manually lock balls with the forks raised but that proved to be pretty impossible.
Is the only real way to use slow-motion video to try and figure it out? I’m open to any suggestions that maybe others have had success with. Even knowing if I should bend to the left or right would be helpful, but difficult to say I’m sure as it can vary from machine. I have removed the assembly once already and the forks “seemed” tight based on the nuts anyways.
Appreciate the listen and help. Getting this chest right would damn near make my game 100% and completely dialed in.
Stock flipper power I believe its 22 left and 25 right. Works perfect for me
Quoted from GnarLee:Stock flipper power I believe its 22 left and 25 right. Works perfect for me
My ball was escaping the maelstrom. If your's never escapes the ramp then you're good to go. Took both of mine down because of the ramp escapes.
Quoted from GnarLee:Stock flipper power I believe its 22 left and 25 right. Works perfect for me
Damn! Do you know what your pitch is set at?
Quoted from joseph5185:Damn! Do you know what your pitch is set at?
6.5
edit* anything above stock I had malestrom escapes. At 25 on the right (stock) It rarely happens like maybe 1 time in 100 games which im fine with. To be honest that 1% is way better than when you get 5 balls going and shit is bouncing all over the place. I did try lowering the right flipper power but you lose the ability to hit a backhand boarding shot if you lower it.
Quoted from GnarLee:6.5
edit* anything above stock I had malestrom escapes. At 25 on the right (stock) It rarely happens like maybe 1 time in 100 games which im fine with. To be honest that 1% is way better than when you get 5 balls going and shit is bouncing all over the place. I did try lowering the right flipper power but you lose the ability to hit a backhand boarding shot if you lower it.
I will check my backhanding up the pearl.
Quoted from joseph5185:Damn! Do you know what your pitch is set at?
It’s not just different pitch, I believe control of flipper strength was mainly put in due to voltage or ampage (I always get it mixed up) variations that can happen from area to area. This was explained to me. Maybe someone smarter can shed some light. Just check when you can make all shots without the ball escaping ramps etc. there is no one setting for the same pitch for all locations.
Quoted from wesman:Did you have to pound this post out for install? Do you remember what size washer you used?
Glad you're up and running!
Thanks, getting there! No pounding necessary, you just remove the nut under the post. Then loosen but don’t completely remove the screw that attaches the other end. The screw is hard to get to so just loosen to make it easier to screw back in. You should be able to tilt the rail up enough at that point to put the washer on. I used an SAE #10 washer, which looks close to what was installed under other rails from factory. Hope that helps!
2CD604E6-D165-4C04-A129-5D94967FC3BF (resized).jpegQuoted from GnarLee:6.5
edit* anything above stock I had malestrom escapes. At 25 on the right (stock) It rarely happens like maybe 1 time in 100 games which im fine with. To be honest that 1% is way better than when you get 5 balls going and shit is bouncing all over the place. I did try lowering the right flipper power but you lose the ability to hit a backhand boarding shot if you lower it.
Thank you sir!!
I could no longer backhand it. Took it up one notch. Works a treat!
Quoted from joseph5185:I was thinking 6.7 since 7 is my favorite number. Do you do 6.8 on pretty much all your pins?
Yeah, no rhyme or reason just easier for me to set all modern pins in the collection to the same number. For awhile I was constantly trying to dial one up another down but once you pass 20 machines (dam this addictive hobby...) you learn to just keep things as simple as possible. For me 6.8 on all works best and plays at a reasonable fast pace. For my older Bally games (80's) I go just under 6. Thats my crazy theory anyway.
Really quick...
Anyone experience an issue where the chest forks aren’t retracting down enough on the playfield which can cause the ball to get stuck back there?
Quoted from joseph5185:Really quick...
Anyone experience an issue where the chest forks aren’t retracting down enough on the playfield which can cause the ball to get stuck back there?
Not sure I have ever experienced that however like most mechanical mechs simply move the forks up and down with your finger to see if they are dragging. If it is bend where needed or adjust. If it passes the finger test operate the mech in the test menu and adjust coil as needed.
Quoted from joseph5185:Really quick...
Anyone experience an issue where the chest forks aren’t retracting down enough on the playfield which can cause the ball to get stuck back there?
I did. Fixed by adding one washer to one of the 5 chest fork mech screws. I think it’s in the index.
Quoted from jarozi:Thanks, getting there! No pounding necessary, you just remove the nut under the post. Then loosen but don’t completely remove the screw that attaches the other end. The screw is hard to get to so just loosen to make it easier to screw back in. You should be able to tilt the rail up enough at that point to put the washer on. I used an SAE #10 washer, which looks close to what was installed under other rails from factory. Hope that helps![quoted image]
Thanks for posting this! This is missing from my March build and sounds like it’s the case with more than handful of others. I remember someone posting interference with that washer in the shooter lane which makes me wonder if that’s why it was missing or simply just missed from a batch of machines.
Quoted from tgrinchy:Thanks for posting this! This is missing from my March build and sounds like it’s the case with more than handful of others. I remember someone posting interference with that washer in the shooter lane which makes me wonder if that’s why it was missing or simply just missed from a batch of machines.
No problem. When you go to tighten that nut under the post, just push the washer away from the shooter lane to make 100% it clears.
Quoted from jarozi:No problem. When you go to tighten that nut under the post, just push the washer away from the shooter lane to make 100% it clears.
I noticed you did that on yours, as that photo with the grinded down washer seemed to be really far into the shooter lane.
Thanks again for the info, and reminder, I need to get this done!
Is the point of the washer to prevent the rail from grinding into the playfield over long term vibration from the ball being ejected up the rails?
Quoted from wesman:Is the point of the washer to prevent the rail from grinding into the playfield over long term vibration from the ball being ejected up the rails?
That's right. In fact the playfield was already missing paint under the rail near the post and I had only played it a few times before adding the washer. Not a big deal, but didn't want it getting worse. What's interesting is they installed a same sized washer under the playfield, between the nut and the playfield. Wonder if during assembly they just put the washer on the wrong side of the PF?
Just ordered one of the last remaining SEs from Automated Services. She related there was only 4 left in their stock. Just an fyi
We played 3 hours straight the other night and it was smooth sailing.
My friend played the next day for 20 minutes and the following happened:
1) Hammer escape - right sling (this marks the second time)
2) Ball binding under the devil's triangle spinner - Fixed
3) Ball getting trapped under the chest - found the Index - will investigate - possible it was an issue longer and the ball just didn't head that way.
4) Left flipper started to bind on the playfield - should be an easy adjustment.
In fairness, my girlfriend mentioned the ball binding of the Devil's Triangle once before and I had a hammer escape before as well. It's all good and it's just nature of the beast I guess.
Quoted from joseph5185:3) Ball getting trapped under the chest - found the Index - will investigate - possible it was an issue longer and the ball just didn't head that way.
Feel under the chest with your finger when the fork is down and the game is off. If you feel the tips above the playfield surface, you'll need the washer fix I used.
Quoted from zaphX:Feel under the chest with your finger when the fork is down and the game is off. If you feel the tips above the playfield surface, you'll need the washer fix I used.
Same location as the posts suggest - top left screw or was it different for you?
Quoted from zaphX:Feel under the chest with your finger when the fork is down and the game is off. If you feel the tips above the playfield surface, you'll need the washer fix I used.
Isn't there a screw adjustment on the bottom of the solenoid on the fork mech that allows you to lower or raise the "at rest" position of them?
Quoted from PinMonk:Isn't there a screw adjustment on the bottom of the solenoid on the fork mech that allows you to lower or raise the "at rest" position of them?
Yes. I think so? Looks like a gold screw. Also, the spring action is a bit lethargic when manually playing with it.
Edit: At the rest position, it's not resting against that screw. When I checked a few weeks back, I don't believe it was then either.
Quoted from joseph5185:Yes. I think so? Looks like a gold screw. Also, the spring action is a bit lethargic when manually playing with it.
Edit: At the rest position, it's not resting against that screw. When I checked a few weeks back, I don't believe it was then either.
I messed with many screws on the chest mech - none affected that position. In fact messing with the ones that hold the solenoid in place caused MORE problems with the fork and the solenoid to overheat, until I moved things back as they were.
I just recommend the washer, it's a simple fix. I don't remember which screw but the post should say.
Quoted from zaphX:I messed with many screws on the chest mech - none affected that position. In fact messing with the ones that hold the solenoid in place caused MORE problems with the fork and the solenoid to overheat, until I moved things back as they were.
I just recommend the washer, it's a simple fix. I don't remember which screw but the post should say.
Yep. It does.
"or add a washer below the chest mech at the lower left screw to adjust the angle just enough to correct the issue."
So just for the sake of conversation and learning...
I didn't originally have this problem with the fork tines being exposed when the fork mechanism was retracted. So, is that just a "sign" of the fork mech possibly becoming loose or ?
I guess I'm simply asking... what changes exactly?
Oh .. and my case (and maybe yours) I couldn't feel the tines from the front side of the chest .. it's only at the very rear so if I put my fingers at the back of the chest I can clearly feel and see them.
Quoted from PinMonk:PROBLEM: Ball sticking under the chest
SOLUTION: Feel under the chest and see if the tips of the chest forks are above the playfield when retracted. Either adjust the screw on the bottom of the mechanism under the playfield so the forks sit lower, or add a washer below the chest mech at the lower left screw to adjust the angle just enough to correct the issue.
Mine was sticking out a bit too. As I was putting two thin washers underneath the lower left, I noticed this extra hole. Do you think this was used for opening and closing the chest? Sorry if this has been pointed out before.
6E7C3361-1BDE-4048-A9E5-49960CDA2192 (resized).jpegQuoted from jarozi:No problem. When you go to tighten that nut under the post, just push the washer away from the shooter lane to make 100% it clears.
Got this done tonight - though I ended up using a smaller #6 SAE washer instead as it fit tighter around the screw base while having less tendency to interfere with the shooter lane.
Unfortunately for me the rail was already embedded in the clear/art on the edge so it has a blemish from that but at least it won’t get worse with time.
I did have to loosen the shooter rail in order to get to the upper philips head, which was mildly annoying.
As a brief update ..
The forks are fine now. Just took the cover off and made a slight adjustment to them and as a bonus the chest seems to accepts balls even better now.I'm now perfectly comfortable with if the ball doesn't lock, the shot simply wasn't good enough.
Quoted from joseph5185:As a brief update ..
The forks are fine now. Just took the cover off and made a slight adjustment to them and as a bonus the chest seems to accepts balls even better now.I'm now perfectly comfortable with if the ball doesn't lock, the shot simply wasn't good enough.
What was the adjustment? You were able to fix the poking above ground without the washer?
Quoted from zaphX:What was the adjustment? You were able to fix the poking above ground without the washer?
Just bent those tines a bit and it's possible something was catching the release assembly like wires or something. Went I put it back together, it looked better, and haven't had the issue since.
Edit: Yup. No washers needed.
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