(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

9 months ago



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There are 2494 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 50.
#1201 8 months ago
Quoted from TZBen:

Bp ship isn’t moving Much to the left side.

There is a thin flat metal piece behind the rear wall of the playfield that hooks the motor to the black pearl. Two screws on it. You can loosen and adjust the metal thing so it isn't too tight.

LTG : )

#1202 8 months ago
Quoted from TZBen:

I everyone, I joined the club today with number 1500 delivered (le). I have a couple small issues and would appreciate our tips.
1. Ship vuk in rear seems to lose balls. I think the game is too steep and they aren’t falling into the vuk correctly?
2. Bp ship isn’t moving Much to the left side.
Thanks. Super excited

1 - Check the VUK coil power. It may need increasing. Mine runs at default.
2 - There is a pin that goes through the back of the playfield in a slot. Is it topping out or bottoming out against either extreme of the slot? If so, there is a metal bar behind the playfield with adjustment screws you can use to raise/shorten the control bar and stop hitting the slot. If it's not hitting the extremes of the slot it is probably fine. The ship has a list to one side most of the time.

#1203 8 months ago
Quoted from TZBen:

HI everyone, I joined the club today with number 1500 delivered (le). I have a couple small issues and would appreciate your tips.
1. Ship vuk in rear seems to lose balls. I think the game is too steep and they aren’t falling into the vuk correctly?
2. Bp ship isn’t moving Much to the left side.
Thanks. Super excited

Yes you need it levelled for the ship VUK to work. I had that problem. A bit steeper would be ok. But I find the game is too hard greater than 6.5. Nose of bubble on 2 nd line.

#1204 8 months ago
Quoted from TZBen:

HI everyone, I joined the club today with number 1500 delivered (le). I have a couple small issues and would appreciate your tips.
1. Ship vuk in rear seems to lose balls. I think the game is too steep and they aren’t falling into the vuk correctly?
2. Bp ship isn’t moving Much to the left side.
Thanks. Super excited

I think the BP not moving much to the left is completely normal based on my game and everyone else’s I have seen.

#1205 8 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I think the BP not moving much to the left is completely normal based on my game and everyone else’s I have seen.

It seems a little more stunted to the left, deeper dip to the right.

#1206 8 months ago

Sorry if this has been addressed somewhere else, I noticed my map not spinning consistently. Came to find the 2 screws holding the motor were out in the cabinet. Took it apart and put back in and gear alinged properly. Now it doesn't work at all. Is there a chance the motor went bad with the misalignment of the gear/grinding?

#1207 8 months ago

It looks like I am starting to see a bit of wear on Tortuga so I'm going ahead and getting Cliffys.

For the folks who have installed them - did you remove any mylar before doing so? Would like more info.

#1208 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It looks like I am starting to see a bit of wear on Tortuga so I'm going ahead and getting Cliffys.
For the folks who have installed them - did you remove any mylar before doing so? Would like more info.

I didn’t remove the Mylar.

#1209 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It looks like I am starting to see a bit of wear on Tortuga so I'm going ahead and getting Cliffys.
For the folks who have installed them - did you remove any mylar before doing so? Would like more info.

I didn't, but I waited to install before playing. Not sure how the mylar that's down will affect things post play, but I had no issues.

It's a fairly easy installation, but try and get the hex key inside the barrel.

#1210 8 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

I didn't, but I waited to install before playing. Not sure how the mylar that's down will affect things post play, but I had no issues.
It's a fairly easy installation, but try and get the hex key inside the barrel.

Oh I'm not worried about removing Tom. I've had him out a couple of times to tweak the Tortuga scoop.

#1211 8 months ago

I removed mylar on my old system 11. A little bit of freeze spay and it will lift right off. Then you clean then glue from playfield. Assuming its the same process for newer machines just gonna be alot easier to get the glue off.

#1212 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It looks like I am starting to see a bit of wear on Tortuga so I'm going ahead and getting Cliffys.
For the folks who have installed them - did you remove any mylar before doing so? Would like more info.

Nope, just put them on over the top of what was there.

#1213 8 months ago

Your prob looking at 60 days for the cliffys zaphX - you ought to clean and wax the Tortuga then throw some Mylar down to prevent further wear... wax makes the new Mylar pretty easy to come off when you get the cliffys.

#1214 8 months ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

Your prob looking at 60 days for the cliffys zaphX - you ought to clean and wax the Tortuga then throw some Mylar down to prevent further wear... wax makes the new Mylar pretty easy to come off when you get the cliffys.

Mylar won't hurt, but there's no guarantee it'll prevent further wear. If it did, there wouldn't be cliffys for new games- we'd just drop mylar and call it a day.

As for myself, I pulled the Tortuga front mylar and cut a new piece to fit and left the sling mylar where it was. But I doubt there'd have been a major problem had I left it on a home use game. I just wanted to give it the purest fit reasonable possible

#1215 8 months ago

More than 60 days for cliffys right now. I ordered mine about 60 days ago and have not gotten them yet, and from what I’ve read he’s about 3 months behind.

#1216 8 months ago

were really at a crisis level now - and the flood of new pins is gonna make it worse.

#1217 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It looks like I am starting to see a bit of wear on Tortuga so I'm going ahead and getting Cliffys.
For the folks who have installed them - did you remove any mylar before doing so? Would like more info.

Has anyone tried using nail polish hardener to prevent chipping at scoops and holes? I remember a post from the club thread a long time ago and I've had it in the back of my mind for awhile. I'm thinking of applying some around the edges of the map hole and Torguga scoop to prevent chipping. Just wondering if anyone has experience with it and if it works. Here's the post from awhile back:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/35#post-4733211

#1218 8 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Has anyone tried using nail polish hardener to prevent chipping at scoops and holes? I remember a post from the club thread a long time ago and I've had it in the back of my mind for awhile. I'm thinking of applying some around the edges of the map hole and Torguga scoop to prevent chipping. Just wondering if anyone has experience with it and if it works. Here's the post from awhile back:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/35#post-4733211

I'm working on using uv nail polish on woz powder coated wire forms.

#1219 8 months ago
Quoted from Breger1:

Sorry if this has been addressed somewhere else, I noticed my map not spinning consistently. Came to find the 2 screws holding the motor were out in the cabinet. Took it apart and put back in and gear alinged properly. Now it doesn't work at all. Is there a chance the motor went bad with the misalignment of the gear/grinding?

I suspect putting the screws back in moved the face of the small gear to high and it is binding against the Playfield. My guess is if you losses the 2 set screws on the small gear and lower it on the shaft it will work correctly. Before you take Anything apart see if this is the case by rotating the disk by hand. It should move freely and without rubbing. If by hand it moves freely then you popped the fuse associated on the main board. Simple fix. Good luck

#1220 8 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I suspect putting the screws back in moved the face of the small gear to high and it is binding against the Playfield. My guess is if you losses the 2 set screws on the small gear and lower it on the shaft it will work correctly. Before you take Anything apart see if this is the case by rotating the disk by hand. It should move freely and without rubbing. If by hand it moves freely then you popped the fuse associated on the main board. Simple fix. Good luck

The map moves freely manually. I checked the fuse it is not blown, and the start button lamp also runs off this fuse and is working fine. I will call JJP. Had a problem with my fuse blowing with shaker motor so they are sending a new shaker motor. Hopefully the map motor hasn’t crapped out

#1221 8 months ago

Have you checked to make sure the wiring harness is good and seated properly?

#1222 8 months ago

You could also unplug and check with dmm in the map test to make sure you are getting 12v.

#1223 8 months ago

My bp ship door won’t stay in the up position. It pulses but stays in the down position when lit and ready for loading of the cannon. Busted wire? I don’t see any issues visually

C1696C76-D34B-4C98-84AB-4A3C2D883544 (resized).jpeg
#1224 8 months ago

Well, it looks like I'm going to have to remove my upper playfield. I'm getting an error saying that my "load" target is stuck open.

#1225 8 months ago

Sorry ignore the pic

#1226 8 months ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Well, it looks like I'm going to have to remove my upper playfield. I'm getting an error saying that my "load" target is stuck open.

Have you tried manually activating it? Lots of times it throws errors because that hasn't been hit in x number of games.

#1227 8 months ago
Quoted from TZBen:

My bp ship door won’t stay in the up position. It pulses but stays in the down position when lit and ready for loading of the cannon. Busted wire? I don’t see any issues visually[quoted image]

A switch somewhere else on the playfield is triggering when the ball is up top. If that happens, the door will not open or will close if it was open. Go into switch test mode and check for switches stuck and then if there are none, smack your open palm on the
playfield in different areas and see if a switch triggers from vibration.

BTW, this is covered in the index on post 1:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/3#post-4941255

#1228 8 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Have you tried manually activating it? Lots of times it throws errors because that hasn't been hit in x number of games.

I tried hitting the target manually during gameplay. Still doesn't work. However, I just played a game and was able to load and fire the cannon into the Dauntless.

#1229 8 months ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I tried hitting the target manually during gameplay. Still doesn't work. However, I just played a game and was able to load and fire the cannon into the Dauntless.

Well there are two targets for loading the cannon. LOAD and CANNON (over on the right.)

I'm betting there is a broken wire on the LOAD target.

#1230 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Well there are two targets for loading the cannon. LOAD and CANNON (over on the right.)
I'm betting there is a broken wire on the LOAD target.

If one is down the other will still work to open the cannon door. Check and see if the gate is catching on the rubber of the ship.

#1231 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Well there are two targets for loading the cannon. LOAD and CANNON (over on the right.)
I'm betting there is a broken wire on the LOAD target.

Yeah, I'm guessing the same thing. I forgot that in order to load the cannon, you have to just hit the "load" or "cannon" target. You don't have to hit both, just one or the other.

#1232 8 months ago

While I have the upper playfield removed, I guess I should take this opportunity to put some plastic wire loom protector in. Does anyone have a link on what size they used on their machine?

#1233 8 months ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

While I have the upper playfield removed, I guess I should take this opportunity to put some plastic wire loom protector in. Does anyone have a link on what size they used on their machine?

I used this:

amazon.com link »

Note that you don't actually have to remove the Pearl to add it. You just feed the wires into the open and and slide it up from under the playfield.

#1234 8 months ago

This is what I'm thinking about installing:

amazon.com link »

#1235 8 months ago

Picture of the stuff I used...it plugs that hole nicely.

IMG_0802 (resized).jpeg
#1236 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I used this:
amazon.com link »
Note that you don't actually have to remove the Pearl to add it. You just feed the wires into the open and and slide it up from under the playfield.

It doesn't say what the diameter is on that version of loom?

#1237 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Picture of the stuff I used...it plugs that hole nicely.[quoted image]

Does that restrict the movement of the upper playfield any at all?

#1238 8 months ago

It's one inch diameter, and no restriction of movement whatsoever.

#1240 8 months ago

Okay.

Disc silencer mod installed..

It's AWESOME!

I can't hear it at all...

Edit: Also, I checked my VUK coil strength for the BP and it's set to "18" which makes sense because I never hear a ball thud when it enters.

#1241 8 months ago

Question guys...

What's easier?

Lubing the button or replacing the button with a Stern?

#1242 8 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Question guys...
What's easier?
Lubing the button or replacing the button with a Stern?

Replace it. No question. The button JJP used is shit.

#1243 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Replace it. No question. The button JJP used is shit.

HAHA!

Okay then..

I'll order this?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-7791-00

#1245 8 months ago

Problem: unlocking a ball from the chest when 2 or 3 balls are locked inside doesn’t work. I replaced the stock balls that were already magnatised, but the new balls now also have this issue and they seem hardy magnetic. Far from really “sticky”. Already adjusted the chest release coil to activate as long as possible but that doesn’t do the trick.
Can the chest be adjusted to have more slope? I mean lower to the left and/or higher on the right?

#1246 8 months ago
Quoted from Maurice:

Problem: unlocking a ball from the chest when 2 or 3 balls are locked inside doesn’t work. I replaced the stock balls that were already magnatised, but the new balls now also have this issue and they seem hardy magnetic. Far from really “sticky”. Already adjusted the chest release coil to activate as long as possible but that doesn’t do the trick.
Can the chest be adjusted to have more slope? I mean lower to the left and/or higher on the right?

I had this same issue but remembered I was using Ninja Chrome which were probably magnetized. Seemed like it when I took them out of the machine.

I have yet to start this multiball since playing (it’s only been a few games), but hopefully this resolves it for me.

It wasn’t an issue in the beginning. Has it always been an issue for you?

I’ll report back once I run into this scenario.

#1247 8 months ago

I've noticed that on the extra ball call-out, at the end of the call-out the speech slows down and sounds a little weird. Is this normal?

#1248 8 months ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I've noticed that on the extra ball call-out, at the end of the call-out the speech slows down and sounds a little weird. Is this normal?

HAH.. yeah, that's atmosphere!

#1249 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Replace it. No question. The button JJP used is shit.

I thought this and had a new one sent. The one in there is the same as this. I could not find a different clear flipper button.

2nd one I received started doing the same thing.

Solution. Take button out, and remove screw at bottom. Hold outer casing and bash the center lightly from the bottom of the button. the inside will come out. Find any burrs, they are usually on the side of the button that sticks out where we bash. File these down smooth with a small nail file. I just polished mine off. All fixed. Gunk can also get in there from time to time. This will fall out when you take it apart. I don't think you will find a flipper button with 0 maintenance. They were never designed to face straight up. Angle is slightly different, so any burrs are noticeable and gunk will get in there.

#1250 8 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

I thought this and had a new one sent. The one in there is the same as this. I could not find a different clear flipper button.
2nd one I received started doing the same thing.
Solution. Take button out, and remove screw at bottom. Hold outer casing and bash the center lightly from the bottom of the button. the inside will come out. Find any burrs, they are usually on the side of the button that sticks out where we bash. File these down smooth with a small nail file. I just polished mine off. All fixed. Gunk can also get in there from time to time. This will fall out when you take it apart. I don't think you will find a flipper button with 0 maintenance. They were never designed to face straight up. Angle is slightly different, so any burrs are noticeable and gunk will get in there.

Are you talking one from JJP sent? Because the JJP part is not the Stern part, the Stern part is noticeably better. Not just the "getting stuck" issue but the overall action of the button. Maybe it's the spring, but it sure feels like a better part overall. It's not a question in my mind to replace it, just like if you are having whining noises replace the inline ground loop isolator with a $9 part from Amazon. I don't know if JJP is cheaping out on the parts (these two things and the posts with the sharp bottoms) but those things aren't right.

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