Pirates of the Caribbean
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2018https://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/2019/05/08/code-update-jersey-jacks-pirates-of-the-caribbean-code-update-0-99/
From the update notes:
"* You’re own your own [sic] if you choose to play Liar’s Dice in competition mode."
What the heck does this mean? Does it mean there's no "Help" option to explain the rules to you?
If you're also curious, than please check and report back. Thank you.
Quoted from oldbaby:https://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/2019/05/08/code-update-jersey-jacks-pirates-of-the-caribbean-code-update-0-99/
From the update notes:
"* You’re own your own [sic] if you choose to play Liar’s Dice in competition mode."
What the heck does this mean? Does it mean there's no "Help" option to explain the rules to you?
If you're also curious, than please check and report back. Thank you.
Uhh...probably just means it's a gamble and there are probably safer alternatives if competing.
Quoted from joseph5185:Uhh...probably just means it's a gamble and there are probably safer alternatives if competing.
I don't think that's so probable. That's an editorial, not a change to the game's code.
Quoted from GnarLee:the actual spinning map that makes your ball go all over the place....you know the omni directional spinning map
I did see the T-nut issue. Will prolly fix it one of these days but have to wait till I got a few hours with no one in the house.
Ooooooh, gotcha
On my PotC the GI and Insert LEDs connected to the P9 board are out. The LED on the board is red. 
So I contacted my distributor and he did send me a new P9 Board (Pinball Universe, Realy good support so far!!!). I put it in and have the same failure. Just the GI and Insert LEDs are out and only the ones that are connected to P9. Everything else works right. The distributor is cluesless too and wants to contact JJP.
Has anybody an idea what is wrong?
Quoted from Asael:On my PotC the GI and Insert LEDs connected to the P9 board are out. The LED on the board is red. So I contacted my distributor and he did send me a new P9 Board (Pinball Universe, Realy good support so far!!!). I put it in and have the same failure. Just the GI and Insert LEDs are out and only the ones that are connected to P9. Everything else works right. The distributor is cluesless too and wants to contact JJP.
Has anybody an idea what is wrong?
Wow, your distributor is really on the ball with that swapout! Shame it didn't fix it...
That power connector for the board is daisy chained. I'd unplug it and use a multimeter to check what (if any) voltage it's delivering. Maybe the connector is broken.
Also, it's bound pretty tightly at a harsh angle by a ziptie, so maybe one of the wires to the power connector had broken off inside the insulation from being bound too tightly and then bend hard to make the board connection. Try cutting it out from that ziptie and then wiggling the wire with the power on and see if the board indicator goes green (even briefly).
Quoted from PinMonk:That power connector is daisy chained. I'd check to see what (if any) voltage it's delivering. Maybe the connector is broken.
Could it be the cat5 cable?
Quoted from harryhoudini:Could it be the cat5 cable?
I don't know enough about how the 2.0 lighting system works to say absolutely no, but since ALL the lights on that board are out it makes me think it's power related rather than control related.
Tech question:
My friend has a Pirates and the right flipper becomes weak after some time playing. The eos switches are working correctly. Machine is some months old. Left stays okay
Does he need to swap the coil to be sure? Or can it be something else?
Thanks
Quoted from PinPeet:Or can it be something else?
Bad solder joint at coil or poor connection from the coil to the I/O board. Might need a tiny bit of up/down play on the flipper bat so the pawl under the playfield isn't binding on the nylon bushing, or the coil stop might be leaning in or out and isn't straight up or down.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Bad solder joint at coil or poor connection from the coil to the I/O board. Might need a tiny bit of up/down play on the flipper bat so the pawl under the playfield isn't binding on the nylon bushing, or the coil stop might be leaning in or out and isn't straight up or down.
LTG : )
Maybe a loose nut on the pawl? Seems like that would be a consistent issue.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Maybe a loose nut on the pawl? Seems like that would be a consistent issue.
If the pawl nut was loose it would rotate out of alignment but would not cause it to get weaker in extended game play. LTG is on the right path.
Thank you all for the replies!
Quoted from LTG:Bad solder joint at coil or poor connection from the coil to the I/O board. Might need a tiny bit of up/down play on the flipper bat so the pawl under the playfield isn't binding on the nylon bushing, or the coil stop might be leaning in or out and isn't straight up or down.
LTG : )
Quoted from PBMAN:Hello
Just got this bad boy from Amazon to stop the Pop at turn on. Anybody install one yet that can shed some light. I am guessing I’m looking for a 3.5 mm Jack somewhere
Thanks
[quoted image]
That won't stop the pop at startup. There is already a noise isolator in the back box. You can try replacing it if you want. It's in the large silver box inside the back box. This would prevent hissing and whining not the DC pop that the amp makes. But I'm working on a solution.
Updated, conglomerated post on the sling post chipping/dimpling issue: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/potc-who-has-playfield-dimples-cracking-wear-around-star-posts-/page/7#post-4996369
I'm happy to report that I have moved past the BP spinner issue.
It turns out that the metal plate with the three nuts can sort of sit at multiple angles and most likely what happened before was when the ship was upside down that force just simply moved that piece down a bit and caused the binding.
I didn't have to add any washers or anything (though I tried it) and I just was careful about how I lined up this piece and then re-tightened and it's spinning freely and happily.
Worst case - if it does happen again - I'll know "exactly" why, but I want to get back to playing for now.
=)
Quoted from PinMonk:Wow, your distributor is really on the ball with that swapout! Shame it didn't fix it...
That power connector for the board is daisy chained. I'd unplug it and use a multimeter to check what (if any) voltage it's delivering. Maybe the connector is broken.
Also, it's bound pretty tightly at a harsh angle by a ziptie, so maybe one of the wires to the power connector had broken off inside the insulation from being bound too tightly and then bend hard to make the board connection. Try cutting it out from that ziptie and then wiggling the wire with the power on and see if the board indicator goes green (even briefly).
Thanks for your help. I checked the connector with a multimeter and have 4,5 volt there. That's ok? Wiggling on the wires does not help. Today I send one of the two P9 boards back to my distributor he wants to check if it's still working or not.
I have no clue what could be wrong.
Had an opto die / break the other day. This one is located closest to The Depths scoop eject. Opto wouldn't respond in test and depths coil kept firing. Each opto is on it's own mini harness and when one goes bad the fix is replacement. Notified my distributor and he's ordered a new one through JJP. First opto I've had go out from my 4 JJP pins.
Quoted from PanzerFreak:Had an opto die / break the other day. This one is located closest to The Depths scoop eject. Opto wouldn't respond in test and depths coil kept firing. Each opto is on it's own mini harness and when one goes bad the fix is replacement. Notified my distributor and he's ordered a new one through JJP. First opto I've had go out from my 4 JJP pins.
[quoted image]
My right opto on the BP spinners broke in half. Have one sitting here to install.
Quoted from Schabs81:So noticed my map cliffy is raised any ideas on fixing with out removing BP again ?
[quoted image]
Did you wipe the playfield well with the activator and let it dry before installing?
If you did and it's still doing that, you may have tightened the connectors too hard at the back which tweaks the thin metal.
Quoted from Schabs81:So noticed my map cliffy is raised any ideas on fixing with out removing BP again ?
[quoted image]
Has the adhesive on the Cliffy been removed and was that area of the playfield cleaned before hand with the supply alcohol wipe? That can impact how well it adheres.
Also, theres a post and another bracket (the map 2 Cliffy I believe) towards the back right of your picture that the Cliffy goes under. I believe theCliffy needs to be sitting flush on the wood and then the other two pieces go over it.
Quoted from Asael:Thanks for your help. I checked the connector with a multimeter and have 4,5 volt there. That's ok? Wiggling on the wires does not help. Today I send one of the two P9 boards back to my distributor he wants to check if it's still working or not.
I have no clue what could be wrong.
I don't know enough about how those work to know what else might be wrong. Since the power connectors are daisy-chained, check the voltage at other boards and see if that 4.5v is right. It seems like it should be higher, but I dunno.
Quoted from PinMonk:Did you wipe the playfield well with the activator and let it dry before installing?
If you did and it's still doing that, you may have tightened the connectors too hard at the back which tweaks the thin metal.
Quoted from PanzerFreak:Has the adhesive on the Cliffy been removed and was that area of the playfield cleaned before hand with the supply alcohol wipe? That can impact how well it adheres.
Also, theres a post and another bracket (the map 2 Cliffy I believe) towards the back right of your picture that the Cliffy goes under. I believe theCliffy needs to be sitting flush on the wood and then the other two pieces go over it.
Yes I cleaned area very well did install both map pieces layed flat for a couple weeks now just noticed rejects to map hole so was looking and seen this.
Quoted from Schabs81:Yes I cleaned area very well did install both map pieces layed flat for a couple weeks now just noticed rejects to map hole so was looking and seen this.
All I can think is the screws and post holding that deflector down onto the cliffy were tightened too much and it torqued the thin cliffy metal, which raised the front.
Soooo I have my first real problem that is beyond me. The left upper playfield flipper goes non stop when you are holding the left flipper button. I ran a report and it says it’s fine but when I test it it just keeps repeatedly non stop flipping. Reset the game and still happening. Any idea what is up?
Quoted from skyrex:Soooo I have my first real problem that is beyond me. The left upper playfield flipper goes non stop when you are holding the left flipper button. I ran a report and it says it’s fine but when I test it it just keeps repeatedly non stop flipping. Reset the game and still happening. Any idea what is up?
Check the left flipper button leaf switch. Make sure it's gapped properly, there are two "switches" within the single module, one for the lower flipper and one for the uppers. Compare to the right button leaf switch, adjust as needed.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/is-there-an-easy-way-to-adjust-flipper-leaf-switch
I'd also look at the wires going to the leaf switch at the button and the wires going to the flipper coil at the flipper itself. Make sure there is nothing loose or bad solder joints.
Quoted from PinMonk:I don't know enough about how those work to know what else might be wrong. Since the power connectors are daisy-chained, check the voltage at other boards and see if that 4.5v is right. It seems like it should be higher, but I dunno.
All boards I checked have around 4,5v.
I think I have to trust my distributor to find a solution. With these cat5 cables and boards it's very hard for an amateur like me to find what's wrong.
Quoted from skyrex:Any idea what is up?
Bad solder joint or broken wire at the coil lugs. Dig around the thin wires from the coil to the coil lugs for cracks or breaks.
LTG : )
For anyone following my issues and is having whining/hissing sounds coming out of the speakers during the boot process or cracking/popping noises when the game is fully on, it is likely your ground loop isolator/noise reducer thingy that JJP used. It's easily replaced, I wrote up a thread detailing my look into it with a part I replaced it with from Amazon: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/does-anyone-else-have-this-hissing-whining-on-boot-on-any-jjp-game#post-4998295
The noise isolator in POTC is in the backbox, in the silver box. It's a black plastic box plugged in with 3.5mm headphone jacks, one going into the motherboard (green jack) and one going to the amp board (blue jack). Just unplug the one going in to the amp, plug in the isolator. Disconnect the connection from the existing noise isolator (it's wrapped up in the big bundle of wires in the ziptie) and plug this new one in. I guess you could plug it in anywhere, just unplug the old one and plug the new one in somewhere.
Quoted from skyrex:Soooo I have my first real problem that is beyond me. The left upper playfield flipper goes non stop when you are holding the left flipper button. I ran a report and it says it’s fine but when I test it it just keeps repeatedly non stop flipping. Reset the game and still happening. Any idea what is up?
In the SNES/Genesis days, this kind of turbo was a mod you wanted to add to your controller!
Quoted from gumnut01:Yep, broken on both sides. Should’ve been made in China, then it would have lasted. [quoted image]
Hmm... pricey but at least available!
Not sure what connectors these are hooked into the bottom, does anybody have a link to those for the future?
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/tt-electronics-optek-technology/OPB812W55Z/365-1712-ND/1637133
I have the exact same issue. JJP sent me one, I bought the other to do both since the BP has to come off. Gotta snake the wiring harness down there.
If you’re in Australia reach out to the distributor there and see if they have one in stock. That way you will get it sooner.
Anyone know the correct/safe way to remove these rubbery connectors on the plastic protector that's over the starmap running alongside the chest? I'm trying to put in the PinballLife ship protector to keep balls from getting trapped under the Pearl, but I'm not seeing how to correctly remove these two rubber connectors and I don't want to force anything and break them. Thanks.
POTC Plastic Protector (resized).jpgQuoted from EaglePin:Anyone know the correct/safe way to remove these rubbery connectors on the plastic protector that's over the starmap running alongside the chest? I'm trying to put in the PinballLife ship protector to keep balls from getting trapped under the Pearl, but I'm not seeing how to correctly remove these two rubber connectors and I don't want to force anything and break them. Thanks.[quoted image]
I just twisted them out. They come out fairly easily, but putting them back in on the other hand..... Far easier to reinstall them when the ship is out, fyi.
And I had the cannon shield in, seemed fine installation wise, then somehow when putting the Pearl back in, for the fourth time, it kept touching the shield, no matter how I positioned it. So I removed it.
Quoted from wesman:I just twisted them out. They come out fairly easily, but putting them back in on the other hand..... Far easier to reinstall them when the ship is out, fyi.
And I had the cannon shield in, seemed fine installation wise, then somehow when putting the Pearl back in, for the fourth time, it kept touching the shield, no matter how I positioned it. So I removed it.
Yup, twist/pull.. they come out pretty easy. When putting them back in, lick them (or wet them some other, more hygenic way) and they pop right in.
Quoted from harryhoudini:, lick them
Quoted from harryhoudini:Yup, twist/pull.. they come out pretty easy. When putting them back in, lick them (or wet them some other, more hygenic way) and they pop right in.
Never considered licking those wee buggers, but it kinda makes sense!
Reminds me of all the people that started licking their Nintendo Switch cartridges, only to realize a special chemical was used to encourage kids not to do the same. I hope Pirates are tastier HH! 
Quoted from wesman:Never considered licking those wee buggers, but it kinda makes sense!
Reminds me of all the people that started licking their Nintendo Switch cartridges, only to realize a special chemical was used to encourage kids not to do the same. I hope Pirates are tastier HH!
Personally, I licked my finger and then rubbed the nub... but to each their own 
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