(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

7 months ago



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#951 6 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

These look much thinner than most of the lexan and nylon washers, is this the case?

It's 3 mil thick mylar, which is thinner than any of the disc solutions, but it's pretty tough material. It's also on the lip of the Black Pearl. I was going to make a piece there because of the chipping danger and realized when I went to measure that there's already one there from the factory.

#952 6 months ago

Where is the USB port for updates? I can’t find it in the manual and I looked around the threads......any help would be greatly appreciated

#953 6 months ago

Behind the coin box in that area

#954 6 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

They're clear so it's really hard to see them once installed, but I took a picture of a star post without the paper backing removed from the ring to give an idea of the coverage.
[quoted image]

Yeah, I was specifically wanting to see them without the backing on the larger star posts, lol.

#955 6 months ago

Thanks! I had not taken the coin box out. Appreciate the quick response

#956 6 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:These look much thinner than most of the lexan and nylon washers, is this the case?

Considerably, probably 1/4 the thickness I'd guess of PETG washers.

#957 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Considerably, probably 1/4 the thickness I'd guess of PETG washers.

Decisions decisions....

I’m thinking if you already have a chip thicker might be better but if doing preventative the Mylar would be the way to go.

#958 6 months ago

Upvote this post if your JJP POTC came with ZERO out of the box problems. Mine's coming in the the next week or two and just curious if there's a shot I can just plug n' play.

Not afraid of problems mind you, just would be dandy if I'm able to rock and roll from jump street, thanks friends.

Can't wait!

#959 6 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yeah, I was specifically wanting to see them without the backing on the larger star posts, lol.

I'll take a picture of that then, but I don't think you will be able to see much - they're transparent!

EDIT: I just realized that on the one where I left the paper on the star post, the slim post above it already has the mylar ring on, and the angle is good enough that it shows up pretty well. Have a look at the slim post in that pic!

#960 6 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Decisions decisions....
I’m thinking if you already have a chip thicker might be better but if doing preventative the Mylar would be the way to go.

If you're chipping, a washer isn't going to hold anything together.

#961 6 months ago
Quoted from jarozi:

Upvote this post if your JJP POTC came with ZERO out of the box problems. Mine's coming in the the next week or two and just curious if there's a shot I can just plug n' play.
Not afraid of problems mind you, just would be dandy if I'm able to rock and roll from jump street, thanks friends.
Can't wait!

Just got mine yesterday, hasn’t needed a single adjustment, other than a tight lock bar. You’ll be fine.

#962 6 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

If you're chipping, a washer isn't going to hold anything together.

I understand that part but since the area is getting totally covered wouldn’t it be a good idea to seal the chip up and then cover with Mylar or washer?

If you just lay the Mylar over the chip it will be impossible to remove and replace if ever needed.

#963 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Just got mine yesterday, hasn’t needed a single adjustment, other than a tight lock bar. You’ll be fine.

Thanks Lermods! That's that all I needed to hear, I have hope now and that's all I was looking for.

#964 6 months ago

Mylar didn't work well on the TNA starposts, it would just end up moving or bunching up. You may have better results with Pirates...

#965 6 months ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

Mylar didn't work well on the TNA starposts, it would just end up moving or bunching up. You may have better results with Pirates...

Did you clean with 90%+ rubbing alcohol before putting down the mylar to give it the best chance of adhering?

I've had mylar on the Pirates here for almost 3 weeks, and it still is great. Granted that was the larger discs, but I guess having one side with larger and one side with smaller ones is a good experiment...

#966 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I tried searching, but not getting good results. Can someone please point me to the install instructions for the cliffys? Looks like the pop bumper has to come out for the mystery hole and the ship out for the map hole. Have two smaller cliffys, not sure where they go.
Thx
[quoted image]

Rob,
The two parts you show are for the Back of The Map Hole and for the front edge of the Depths. The Depths you can snap in place.

For the Tortuga Hole; you don’t need to remove the pop number. You should Tortuga Tom (need a small Allen wrench) and then you can loosen up the Pop Bumper enough to lift up the skirt to get to the screws. Just be carefull of the two small nylon spacers after you take off Tortuga Tom.

For the MAP hole you need to remove the ship.
MicsirTuna has a great Buffalo Pinball Twitch video on removing the ship.
Here are my notes from his video;

Pirate Ship Removal and Replacement

1. Flip Playfield.
2. Disconnect 7 cables;
3. Label connectors: 1 and 2 are larger white connectors (9 and 12 Pin). Next is Ethernet lighting R45( J908), 3 is 2 Pin connector power to right, 5,6,7 all go to board on right; J2, J3, J4 (should have colored dots for connectors as they are not keyed connectors) but write J2,J3,J4
4. Feed through so they do not get tangled
5. Lower Playfield
6. Loosen up right ramp wire form at bottoms of wire form Don’t have to remove nuts
7. Remove right wire form and set aside
8. Loosen right ramp; screw or on right by short side. Don’t remove screw
9. Remove screws at bottoms of ramp by flaps.
10. Ship Removal: 1) Allen Bolt behind BP,- Loosen Screw and then use hand to twist and remove without dropping. 2)Remove Cotton Pin behind BackBoard and washer and connector from Post. Pull Post through slot towards Playfield
11. Pull ship back so it comes off horizontal post through front eyelet underneath ship. Then can pull front up. Then jiggle or pull ship forward so it comes off of back eyelet. Watch out for BP VUK on back right as you need to clear that when bringing out.
12. Pull ship up and bring wires through. Careful with underneath of ship. Rest ship on pillow etc ; top side of ship down on pillow.

1. Putting Ship Back gets tricky.
2. Hold Ship and feed cables back through the hole. Make sure they go through the hole.
3. Bring Playfield in. Will be tricky to get posts through the eyelets. Try back eyelet first slide back In then can slide forward over front eyelet. Slide forward to stay on
4. Get shoulder bolt back on . Hold ship forward. This is tricky Try not to drop screw
5. Put washer in against back wood. And put clip back in.
6. Reattach ramp with flap screws. Make sure leaf switch under ramp is not getting caught.
7. Put back wireform. Angle in from top.

#967 6 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Did you clean with 90%+ rubbing alcohol before putting down the mylar to give it the best chance of adhering?
I've had mylar on the Pirates here for almost 3 weeks, and it still is great. Granted that was the larger discs, but I guess having one side with larger and one side with smaller ones is a good experiment...

Yes it was clean, and there are multiple reports of this happening on TNA, which is why people switched to the thicker poly discs...

#968 6 months ago

Went to my local hardware store, (not a chain) and the fantastic gentlemen who's helped me prior with plumbing issues hacksawed, then buffed, this t-nut very nicely!

20190511_175500 (resized).jpg20190511_175522 (resized).jpg20190511_183028 (resized).jpg
#969 6 months ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

Yes it was clean, and there are multiple reports of this happening on TNA, which is why people switched to the thicker poly discs...

Did anyone post pictures? I'd like to see what happened on TNA. Also, were they using hobby store vinyl cling, or actual pinball mylar? The ones I installed on Pirates haven't budged in almost 3 weeks, so it seems weird.

#970 6 months ago

A correction on this. You do not need to remove the #1 philips screws as a first step in order to remove Tom. There is a hole in the side of his barrel you can stick a hex wrench or driver through to get at the hidden hex.

Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM: Tortuga saucer sending the ball SDTM
SOLUTION: Most likely the ball deflector/guide at the back of the Tortuga saucer is loose or mis-aligned. Remove Tortuga Tom and loosen the pop bumper to gain access to the two phillips screws for the deflector that's slightly under the pop bumper skirt. Aim the guard a bit to the left. Test and ensure the scoop fires into the middle of the left flipper. Consider blue loctite to make the fix permanent.
Here's how you get the pop bumper apart to gain access to the two screws:
This is the deflector that you may need to tighten and/or adjust the direction it's pointing:
[quoted image]
These are the screws you need to tighten once the deflector is where you want it:
[quoted image]
There's a single #1 phillips screw each at the front and back of the barrel you need to remove:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Once the barrel is off, you see a mounting plate, but the hex set screw that holds it on is hidden underneath it. Feel for it and use a hex wrench to loosen it, then slide the mounting plate up and off:
[quoted image]
This is a better look at the set screw once the plate is off:
[quoted image]
There are now two motor screws to remove. READ THE NEXT STEP BEFORE DOING THIS ONE:
[quoted image]
Under each screw holding the motor on, there's a nylon spacer. Be careful to hold the spacer as you lift the screw out so you don't lose the spacer in the machine:
[quoted image]
Lift the motor up a bit and set it to the side, which will expose the screws for the pop bumper. LOOSEN, DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Once loose, you can raise the skirt in the front where the two screws are for the deflector and tighten/adjust as-needed:
[quoted image]
Reverse the process to put it all back together.

#971 6 months ago

Don’t mess with the ramps. Instead remove the black pearl VUK by the back of the ship. Much easier to do than messing with ramps and also makes removing pearl a lot easier.

Quoted from DrDQ:

Rob,
The two parts you show are for the Back of The Map Hole and for the front edge of the Depths. The Depths you can snap in place.
For the Tortuga Hole; you don’t need to remove the pop number. You should Tortuga Tom (need a small Allen wrench) and then you can loosen up the Pop Bumper enough to lift up the skirt to get to the screws. Just be carefull of the two small nylon spacers after you take off Tortuga Tom.
For the MAP hole you need to remove the ship.
MicsirTuna has a great Buffalo Pinball Twitch video on removing the ship.
Here are my notes from his video;
Pirate Ship Removal and Replacement
1. Flip Playfield.
2. Disconnect 7 cables;
3. Label connectors: 1 and 2 are larger white connectors (9 and 12 Pin). Next is Ethernet lighting R45( J908), 3 is 2 Pin connector power to right, 5,6,7 all go to board on right; J2, J3, J4 (should have colored dots for connectors as they are not keyed connectors) but write J2,J3,J4
4. Feed through so they do not get tangled
5. Lower Playfield
6. Loosen up right ramp wire form at bottoms of wire form Don’t have to remove nuts
7. Remove right wire form and set aside
8. Loosen right ramp; screw or on right by short side. Don’t remove screw
9. Remove screws at bottoms of ramp by flaps.
10. Ship Removal: 1) Allen Bolt behind BP,- Loosen Screw and then use hand to twist and remove without dropping. 2)Remove Cotton Pin behind BackBoard and washer and connector from Post. Pull Post through slot towards Playfield
11. Pull ship back so it comes off horizontal post through front eyelet underneath ship. Then can pull front up. Then jiggle or pull ship forward so it comes off of back eyelet. Watch out for BP VUK on back right as you need to clear that when bringing out.
12. Pull ship up and bring wires through. Careful with underneath of ship. Rest ship on pillow etc ; top side of ship down on pillow.
1. Putting Ship Back gets tricky.
2. Hold Ship and feed cables back through the hole. Make sure they go through the hole.
3. Bring Playfield in. Will be tricky to get posts through the eyelets. Try back eyelet first slide back In then can slide forward over front eyelet. Slide forward to stay on
4. Get shoulder bolt back on . Hold ship forward. This is tricky Try not to drop screw
5. Put washer in against back wood. And put clip back in.
6. Reattach ramp with flap screws. Make sure leaf switch under ramp is not getting caught.
7. Put back wireform. Angle in from top.

#972 6 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

A correction on this. You do not need to remove the #1 philips screws as a first step in order to remove Tom. There is a hole in the side of his barrel you can stick a hex wrench or driver through to get at the hidden hex.

Unfortunately there's no way to edit these posts, I can only add to them. I'm going to see if I can get some kind of a code or something from Robin to be able to edit these after the fact.

#973 6 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Did anyone post pictures? I'd like to see what happened on TNA. Also, were they using hobby store vinyl cling, or actual pinball mylar? The ones I installed on Pirates haven't budged in almost 3 weeks, so it seems weird.

I used proper mylar on mine. Check in the later pages of the photo gallery....probably some there...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome

#975 6 months ago
Quoted from tomdotcom:

I used proper mylar on mine. Check in the later pages of the photo gallery....probably some there...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome

The only one I saw was one with the size mylar I rejected because there wasn't enough space around the star post (and star posts do move a little, so issues with that size are to be expected:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/75#post-4654312

Are there any TNA ones with the larger mylar discs?

#976 6 months ago

3 games after I put on the update the inserts around the chest went out. The LED on the Left Orbit &Upper TargetsRGB LED Board changed to red. RED = Bad Fuse. But what fuse is for this Board, every Fuse-Led is red? Had someone else the same problem?

I hope I don`t have a bad board, I want to start a tournament this week.

#977 6 months ago
Quoted from Asael:

every Fuse-Led is red?

The tiny fuse on some of the LED boards are surface mounted. Green is good, red bad. Only for the tiny ones. The 20mm ones on your I/O board show red when good.

LTG : )

#978 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

The tiny fuse on some of the LED boards are surface mounted. Green is good, red bad. Only for the tiny ones. The 20mm ones on your I/O board show red when good.
LTG : )

The LED on the big LED Board under the playfield is red, so this is ok? If so, should I check the cables to the board, cause the inserts don`t light up anymore?
D7258AA4-8EB3-4266-AC55-A473E46BE482 (resized).jpeg

#979 6 months ago
Quoted from Asael:

The LED on the big LED Board under the playfield is red, so this is ok? If so, should I check the cables to the board, cause the inserts don`t light up anymore?
[quoted image]

Lloyd said red on the smaller boards (under the playfield) is bad. Sounds like it needs to be replaced. As to why it blew, I'd like to know that too.

#980 6 months ago

So I have opened a ticket on the support page and tomorrow I will contact my distributor for help. I have no idea why the board gone bad. Will report back here how it went.

#981 6 months ago

Courtesy of zaphX I'm going to try to tilt the Black Pearl a bit more to the right, due to frequent ball hang-ups on the ramp diverter.

From what I gather, this might also help possible wear on the ramp, due to that screw being so close in proximity.

Here's the one I bought today.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-8-in-Clear-Adhesive-Bumper-Pads-16-Pack-822891/306229466

And I think this is the one he picked up.

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/home-and-decor/indoor-furniture/protective-furniture-pads/5044524

#982 6 months ago
Quoted from Asael:

The LED on the big LED Board under the playfield is red, so this is ok? If so, should I check the cables to the board, cause the inserts don`t light up anymore?
[quoted image]

Red light means something wrong. Either no power or bad fuse (should be marked on board what led means). I also had some board issues with my game nib. Contact jjp to have them send you a replacement. That is the p9 board pictured.

#983 6 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Red light means something wrong. Either no power or bad fuse (should be marked on board what led means). I also had some board issues with my game nib. Contact jjp to have them send you a replacement. That is the p9 board pictured.

My Distributor will send me a new board.

#984 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

When you get to installing the map hole Cliffy's

That's what I am waiting on. I will also mylar the chapter start area and do a thorough cleaning and waxing. I might be close to 500 plays.

#985 6 months ago

Solved my flipper buttons being too stiff. Used my leaf switch bending tool, and bent the leaf closest to the button so that it is almost vertical. Before it had a very aggressive bend towards the flipper button. WOW what a difference. So much easier to use, and can easily activate both upper and lower flipper independently now. New action button also installed. Very happy.

#986 6 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Solved my flipper buttons being too stiff. Used my leaf switch bending tool, and bent the leaf closest to the button so that it is almost vertical. Before it had a very aggressive bend towards the flipper button. WOW what a difference. So much easier to use, and can easily activate both upper and lower flipper independently now. New action button also installed. Very happy.

Good job!

#987 6 months ago

Thanks for your advice on not ripping out the layered leaf switches and replacing with a single switch. You made me realise what a bad decision that was!

#988 6 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Thanks for your advice on not ripping out the layered leaf switches and replacing with a single switch. You made me realise what a bad decision that was!

Anything I can do to help folks enjoy their games more makes me happy.

#989 6 months ago

Can someone point me to the instructions to remove the ship to Install the cliffy for the map hole?

Does the pop bumper need to come out to Install the mystery hole cliffy?

#990 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Can someone point me to the instructions to remove the ship to Install the cliffy for the map hole?
Does the pop bumper need to come out to Install the mystery hole cliffy?

To remove the Pearl, lift the playfield. You will have to clip some of the zip ties to free up all the plugs going to the Pearl, I think there are 7 of them. Make careful note of what goes where. Most of the plugs only go in one place, but there are 3 on the right that are all the same and are color-coded to their homes.
Once you have the harness loose and unplugged, go back topside. Move the spotlight out of the way. Remove the hex bolt behind the Pearl and push the Pearl toward the back, then up and out. Some people loosen the Pearl ramp and/or remove the VUK to make removal/replacement easier. I didn't do these things, kinda wish I did. When you put the Pearl back on, consider adding some kind of wire loom protection to the harness so it won't rub.

To remove Tortuga Tom there is a hole in the side that takes an Allen wrench. Loosen that and Tom lifts right off. From there 2 screws to remove the motor (watch for falling spacers) and then loosen the two screws in the bottom of the pop - do not remove them. From this point you can remove the Tortuga scoop for your cliffy install. When you reassemble, aim it to the left and test it a few times to make sure it hits the flipper (and not the ball guide or SDTM.) I used blue loctite on this scoop which has held it solidly and my scoop ejects are perfect.

#991 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

To remove the Pearl, lift the playfield. You will have to clip some of the zip ties to free up all the plugs going to the Pearl, I think there are 7 of them. Make careful note of what goes where. Most of the plugs only go in one place, but there are 3 on the right that are all the same and are color-coded to their homes.
Once you have the harness loose and unplugged, go back topside. Move the spotlight out of the way. Remove the hex bolt behind the Pearl and push the Pearl toward the back, then up and out. Some people loosen the Pearl ramp and/or remove the VUK to make removal/replacement easier. I didn't do these things, kinda wish I did. When you put the Pearl back on, consider adding some kind of wire loom protection to the harness so it won't rub.
To remove Tortuga Tom there is a hole in the side that takes an Allen wrench. Loosen that and Tom lifts right off. From there 2 screws to remove the motor (watch for falling spacers) and then loosen the two screws in the bottom of the pop - do not remove them. From this point you can remove the Tortuga scoop for your cliffy install. When you reassemble, aim it to the left and test it a few times to make sure it hits the flipper (and not the ball guide or SDTM.) I used blue loctite on this scoop which has held it solidly and my scoop ejects are perfect.

Many thanks! Doesn't sound too bad.

#992 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Many thanks! Doesn't sound too bad.

It's not. It's a bit intimidating but it really was designed to be serviceable. The main caveat I have is make sure you block off any holes/cracks with shop towels before you remove things. It's super easy to drop a nut or something into the bowels of the machine. When I replaced the rubber in the star map area I lost a plastic post that I still haven't found!

#993 6 months ago

Does anyone know if it's possible to install the starmap on an SE? Or is the SE missing the connectors and other essential hardware for it? I've been trying to get an LE or CE and just can't get my hands on one to save my life. As soon as one is listed it's sold in minutes. I've got all of the instant alerts setup, but still miss out every time. I was thinking of buying an SE and trying to upgrade it as an alternative. What else is missing off the SE besides startmap, powder coat topper, shaker and invisiglass?

#994 6 months ago
Quoted from JamCat:

Does anyone know if it's possible to install the starmap on an SE? Or is the SE missing the connectors and other essential hardware for it? I've been trying to get an LE or CE and just can't get my hands on one to save my life. As soon as one is listed it's sold in minutes. I've got all of the instant alerts setup, but still miss out every time. I was thinking of buying an SE and trying to upgrade it as an alternative. What else is missing off the SE besides startmap, powder coat topper, shaker and invisiglass?

Spinning pop bumpers.

#995 6 months ago
Quoted from JamCat:

Does anyone know if it's possible to install the starmap on an SE? Or is the SE missing the connectors and other essential hardware for it? I've been trying to get an LE or CE and just can't get my hands on one to save my life. As soon as one is listed it's sold in minutes. I've got all of the instant alerts setup, but still miss out every time. I was thinking of buying an SE and trying to upgrade it as an alternative. What else is missing off the SE besides startmap, powder coat topper, shaker and invisiglass?

Fairly sure you can't add the starmap but I think you will enjoy the SE fine without it. Comparison chart as this comparison question keeps popping up.

POTC-Matrix-New copy.pdf
#996 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Many thanks! Doesn't sound too bad.

Remove the VUK. I shifted the ramp for the first three times, and the ramp was a major hassle to bbn align again. The VUK has 2/3 screws covering it via the plastic/man overboard protector. Then the VUK has just three nuts/screws itself. No shifting the Pearl target wires around the VUK then.

#997 6 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Fairly sure you can't add the starmap

Yeah, it sounds like there is more missing than I thought. I really would need the headphone jack too. I'll just have to be patient and keep trying. Eventually I'll get one.

#998 6 months ago

I would love for someone from JJP to tell me how to read that f'ing starmap.

#999 6 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

PROBLEM:Where the heck does the Map2 piece that comes with the jjPotC Cliffies go?
SOLUTION:When installing the cliffies, the MAP protector is a two-piece set. One protects most of the surface area around the hole and targets, and the other protects the back of the hole.
The map2 piece goes on the backside of the map hole to protect the back of the hole from ball hits. The goal is to try to keep the map 1 piece as flat as possible and then not torque too much pressure on it, so I put down map 1 (after wiping the area with the activator so the 3M adhesive for the front edge would stick well):
[quoted image]
...then put the map2 piece on top of that at the backside of the hole:
[quoted image]

...then put the ball guide on the right on top of that stack. Then I put in the post and screw to hold the deflector, paying attention not to tighten overly tight and also to orient the deflector to similar orientation to when I took it off.
[quoted image]

I wonder why Cliffy just didn't make the long protector for the map with the metal covering the backside of the hole instead of having to put the additional piece to protect the wood.

#1000 6 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I would love for someone from JJP to tell me how to read that f'ing starmap.

It just gives you a visual clue as to where the starmap shot is hidden. For example if you see a 2X in the stars, then the hidden shot is the 2X target. The clue is revealed when you shoot the chapter select area when its not lit. The hidden shot will also be revealed on the playfield briefly by flashing white. An audible chime will play when you make a starmap shot.

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