(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech


By vireland

9 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,470 posts
  • 143 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Vitty
  • Topic is favorited by 107 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 458 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

gate_area (resized).jpg
20200112_172010360_iOS (resized).jpg
IMG_4324 (resized).jpg
IMG_4319 (resized).jpg
IMG_4323 (resized).jpg
6B074BF9-316F-4199-8477-CE8D3DF0976D.jpeg
C0B17092-B7E9-4E2A-BB0C-59254A3ED427.jpeg
Screen Shot 2020-01-06 at 1.36.44 AM (resized).png
B6A71508-E3F3-4F6F-ACF8-23610592698F (resized).jpeg
IMG_4292 (resized).jpg
IMG_4298 (resized).JPG
IMG_4296 (resized).JPG
IMG_4290 (resized).jpg
fix-dead-jjpotc-H310_mobo (resized).jpg
KICKTAP Installation Instructions-FINAL (resized).jpg
coin-mech-screws (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 2470 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 50.
#901 8 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Well son of a bitch!
Was poking around the game today after putting about 50 games on it and what do I discover? Lower left sling post chipping has begun.
What’s the safest bet here for minimizing further? I have 3/4” semi clear washers as recommended earlier and Mylar.
Thoughts?
I can live with a chip but don’t want the whole area flaking up.
Pisses me off!

Mylar, IMO. I don't think the washers will solve the problem.

I punched out my own that were slightly bigger than the star post base (after estimating WAY off on the initial try). These are adhesive and have the best chance of holding everything together.

star-post-mylar (resized).jpg
#902 8 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Well son of a bitch!
Was poking around the game today after putting about 50 games on it and what do I discover? Lower left sling post chipping has begun.
What’s the safest bet here for minimizing further? I have 3/4” semi clear washers as recommended earlier and Mylar.
Thoughts?
I can live with a chip but don’t want the whole area flaking up.
Pisses me off!

Where are your clear washers located? I'm guessing up near the sling plastics because you didn't mention that you changed the star posts and it'd look really weird to have the 3/4" washers under the narrow star posts. Or did your game come with the tiny clear washers under the posts already? Either way, here is what I did:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/potc-sling-chip-mitigation-amp-plastic-protection

Some other discussion:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/9#post-4966016

Post some pics of your existing setup so we can track data points and see what is happening on other games.

#903 8 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Mylar, IMO. I don't think the washers will solve the problem.

I'd suggest it's the other way around, personally. Mylar is an extremely thin piece of plastic... the original narrow star posts have a sharp lip on the bottom, how is mylar going to protect from that? Unless someone is balking at the look, I'd suggest what I did in my post, linked above. That way you have an entirely flat, large surface area of PETG washer at the bottom which spreads the load, stops further pressure from the narrow post and prevents more cracking, I'd say.

*Edit--- Now that you edited,lol... you don't have any cracking. Why would mylar help those with cracking/divoting? Not only that, I bet the mylar puffs up at the edges over time as the post settles in, more so if the mylar is closer cut to the post. Also, were your narrow posts sharp on the bottom?

#904 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'd suggest it's the other way around, personally. Mylar is an extremely thin piece of plastic... the original narrow star posts have a sharp lip on the bottom, how is mylar going to protect from that? Unless someone is balking at the look, I'd suggest what I did in my post, linked above. That way you have an entirely flat, large surface area of PETG washer at the bottom which spreads the load, stops further pressure from the narrow post and prevents more cracking, I'd say.
*Edit--- Now that you edited,lol... you don't have any cracking. Why would mylar help those with cracking/divoting? Not only that, I bet the mylar puffs up at the edges over time as the post settles in, more so if the mylar is closer cut to the post. Also, were your narrow posts sharp on the bottom?

How much experience do you have with mylar on playfields? My experience with it is much different than your assertion. Not saying you're wrong, just that I haven't seen the issues you're talking about when using it.

With the method you're talking about, you're spreading the pressure out, but the PETG disc still has a sharp edge unless you're beveling them by hand. That will dig over time.

#905 8 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

How much experience do you have with mylar on playfields? My experience with it is much different than your assertion. Not saying you're wrong, just that I haven't seen the issues you're talking about when using it.
With the method you're talking about, you're spreading the pressure out, but the PETG disc still has a sharp edge unless you're beveling them by hand. That will dig over time.

I took a mylar master class and got 100% on the test. I can probably bet that it's not near the experience that you do, just making logical and reasonable assumptions based on experience in general. I could be 100% wrong.

The PETG discs I used had an almost imperceptible lip on one side, I put the other side down. I also put the least amount of tension on the posts that I could feel comfortable doing, which I think (combined with the sharp lip), is what contributed to this more than anything. But.. the pressure is extraordinarily more spread out with the petg washer than either with a post alone (stock) or with mylar. Just because the larger star post sits on the edge of the washer does not mean the load is concentrated in that area, the washer is thick and not extremely pliable. You're still talking about a concentrated load where the post meets the playfield, the mylar can only spread that out so much. And let's not forget JJPs solution to the issue was to put a clear washer under the narrow posts, which seems to have prevented the cracking and divoting for newer games.

#906 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Where are your clear washers located? I'm guessing up near the sling plastics because you didn't mention that you changed the star posts and it'd look really weird to have the 3/4" washers under the narrow star posts. Or did your game come with the tiny clear washers under the posts already? Either way, here is what I did:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/potc-sling-chip-mitigation-amp-plastic-protection
Some other discussion:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/9#post-4966016
Post some pics of your existing setup so we can track data points and see what is happening on other games.

I was still stock, no washers on PF. Not too worried about the plastics.

Trying to decide Mylar then 3/4 washer with skinny JJP post on it or Mylar, 3/4 washed and star posts which I don’t have.

#907 8 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

I was still stock, no washers on PF. Not too worried about the plastics.
Trying to decide Mylar then 3/4 washer with skinny JJP post on it or Mylar, 3/4 washed and star posts which I don’t have.

Ahhhh, I thought you said you had washers installed so I was interested to know how it was chipping/cracking.

#908 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ahhhh, I thought you said you had washers installed so I was interested to know how it was chipping/cracking.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ahhhh, I thought you said you had washers installed so I was interested to know how it was chipping/cracking.

Ordered the 3/4” from pinball life in anticipation of this.

Just trying to determine the best resolution to cover the small chip and prevent more but also look ok.

What star posts did you go with?

#909 8 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Ordered the 3/4” from pinball life in anticipation of this.
Just trying to determine the best resolution to cover the small chip and prevent more but also look ok.
What star posts did you go with?

Just the classic posts. I put 2 blue and 1 clear on each side to match the playfield sorta.

https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-translucent-star-posts-1-116-tall.html

0429191438 (1) (resized).jpg
#910 8 months ago

Yea guys.

I get it. I was pretty ticked off when I said what I said. I’m still not happy about it, but life will move on...

Dare I say my game is flawless minus the now two BP issues. It’s just unfortunate that the BP is probably the most difficult component of this game especially when needing to take it off.

And it’s still difficult to come to terms with being the “only one” that has a bound left spinner. But I guess it’s entirely possible that others have in fact experienced this and just added washers since it’s such a “simple” fix, but just seems unlikely that literally no one would say anything.

I was actually considering a break/fix post to help contribute to this thread instead of flooding it and having everyone against me.

#911 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Just the classic posts. I put 2 blue and 1 clear on each side to match the playfield sorta.
https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-translucent-star-posts-1-116-tall.html[quoted image]

Thats an interesting look with the multicolor posts. Like it.

#912 8 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Thats an interesting look with the multicolor posts. Like it.

I was going to use two blue in the water, and a red up top.

Considering there's so much plastic there, might as well make it more pleasant than just clear I felt.

#913 8 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

I was going to use two blue in the water, and a red up top.
Considering there's so much plastic there, might as well make it more pleasant than just clear I felt.

I think the red would great with the blue.

#914 8 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

I was going to use two blue in the water, and a red up top.
Considering there's so much plastic there, might as well make it more pleasant than just clear I felt.

I was looking for a darker amber color but couldn't find anything to match. I just got red for my TOM and they are really red, the playfield is more orange brown. I guess there aren't too many color options for star posts.

BTW, those are aqua or light blue depending on who you order from. But everyone calls the dark blue, "blue". Only some places have the aqua. I ordered from a few places to get color options and they ended up all being the same.

#915 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I was looking for a darker amber color but couldn't find anything to match. I just got red for my TOM and they are really red, the playfield is more orange brown. I guess there aren't too many color options for star posts.
BTW, those are aqua or light blue depending on who you order from. But everyone calls the dark blue, "blue". Only some places have the aqua. I ordered from a few places to get color options and they ended up all being the same.

I’m ordering clear, turquoise and amber from pinball life. They don’t have all of them pictured.

3/4” washers the proper size for under these star posts?

Edit - disregard, I read your post again. harryhoudini

#916 8 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Yea guys.
I get it. I was pretty ticked off when I said what I said. I’m still not happy about it, but life will move on...
Dare I say my game is flawless minus the now two BP issues. It’s just unfortunate that the BP is probably the most difficult component of this game especially when needing to take it off.
And it’s still difficult to come to terms with being the “only one” that has a bound left spinner. But I guess it’s entirely possible that others have in fact experienced this and just added washers since it’s such a “simple” fix, but just seems unlikely that literally no one would say anything.
I was actually considering a break/fix post to help contribute to this thread instead of flooding it and having everyone against me.

I concur with others that the cover binding your spinner may have gotten bent during one of the Pearl removals.
Did you ever set it face down?

Honestly if this were me I would just lift up on it gently until the bracket is bent enough that the spinner is free.

I had a similar issue with the Dauntless on another game where the top cover was bent down and not allowing the ship to freely rock.

I don’t think being outraged or “why me” over this minor issue is worth it. Pinball is like this.
Instead you should feel proud that you diagnosed the problem and have a couple of easy solutions to it that don’t require waiting on any parts!

I may regret this, but what is the second BP issue?

#917 8 months ago

After struggling with Multiballs ever since I set this game up I thought “screw it” and lowered the pitch from a whopping 6.55 to 6.5. The nose of the bubble used to be just above the second line, now it just meets it. Night and day. Multiballs so much more manageable. Easier BP. Less drains when going for Jack in the star map. Less drains going for Devil’s Triangle. More fun. No other game has changed this much from such a small adjustment. Really advise people to take the pitch down a little if the balls are feeling too heavy during Multiballs.

On another note, not only is my action button sticking, but so is left flipper. Pretty crap. I am actually going to change both flippers to single leaf switches. I know this means each button will now fire all flippers on either side with no independent flipper control. But don’t give a rats, I need to save my tennis elbow. The double leaf switches are way to firm for me. Yeah I’m a wimp.

Lastly, on pressing the start button the game rebooted today. I know I need to check power cable as posted, but this is the first time in 80 games. On .99 will advise if it reoccurs.

Got my first pirate hat and eyepatch today!!! Woohoo! Sorry... I meant AAAARRRRRR!!

#918 8 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

After struggling with Multiballs ever since I set this game up I thought “screw it” and lowered the pitch from a whopping 6.55 to 6.5. The nose of the bubble used to be just above the second line, now it just meets it. Night and day. Multiballs so much more manageable. Easier BP. Less drains when going for Jack in the star map. Less drains going for Devil’s Triangle. More fun. No other game has changed this much from such a small adjustment. Really advise people to take the pitch down a little if the balls are feeling too heavy during Multiballs.
On another note, not only is my action button sticking, but so is left flipper. Pretty crap. I am actually going to change both flippers to single leaf switches. I know this means each button will now fire all flippers on either side with no independent flipper control. But don’t give a rats, I need to save my tennis elbow. The double leaf switches are way to firm for me. Yeah I’m a wimp.
Lastly, on pressing the start button the game rebooted today. I know I need to check power cable as posted, but this is the first time in 80 games. On .99 will advise if it reoccurs.
Got my first pirate hat and eyepatch today!!! Woohoo! Sorry... I meant AAAARRRRRR!!

Agree 100% on the pitch. Top of bubble to the second line plays perfect for me. I’ve played them steeper at shows and it makes it more frustrating not more fun.

For the flipper, it is almost certainly not the double-leaf switch that is causing excess resistance - those things take VERY little effort to engage.
Instead try just replacing the button. You may have one that is binding like the gold button, or maybe it just has a really stiff spring.

If you’re still unhappy at that point, then look at doing more...but you really want to retain the two stage functionality if you can.
As you progress in skill there will be a point where you want to cradle a ball on the lower flipper while engaging the top one.

#919 8 months ago

Looks like until I can get some star posts I’ll need to install the skinny factory posts on the 3/4” lexan washers.

Has there been any digging in with the star posts on top of the washers?

Anyone who has had the chipping put any type of automotive clear coat on the chip or any other product?

#920 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I concur with others that the cover binding your spinner may have gotten bent during one of the Pearl removals.
Did you ever set it face down?
Honestly if this were me I would just lift up on it gently until the bracket is bent enough that the spinner is free.
I had a similar issue with the Dauntless on another game where the top cover was bent down and not allowing the ship to freely rock.
I don’t think being outraged or “why me” over this minor issue is worth it. Pinball is like this.
Instead you should feel proud that you diagnosed the problem and have a couple of easy solutions to it that don’t require waiting on any parts!
I may regret this, but what is the second BP issue?

It must have. I don’t remember the spinner being an issue before I took it off. At least not the left one.

It seems entirely possible that you can just sorta push down on that cannon molding piece and it will press against the spinner rod. Simply lifting up on this molding frees the spinner. I have contemplated doing just that and putting it back and sorta hoping it stays in the “up” position. On mine anyway, there’s quite a bit of play with that piece and a washer or 2 doesn’t really make much difference.

I was considering maybe trying like foam as well to act as a barrier. At this point I think I just want to move that piece up, put the ship back, play the game, and see how it goes. Addressing it again, if necessary, won’t require removing the ship anyways.

The other issue was the original flipper issue which is mostly resolved. I was just counting the issues. The plunger is coming up out of the assembly sort of sluggish or slower than the other (so when the flipper is coming back down) so since I have the ship off I was going to look at this a little closer.

#921 8 months ago

I tried searching, but not getting good results. Can someone please point me to the install instructions for the cliffys? Looks like the pop bumper has to come out for the mystery hole and the ship out for the map hole. Have two smaller cliffys, not sure where they go.

Thx

image (resized).jpg
#922 8 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

The other issue was the original flipper issue which is mostly resolved. I was just counting the issues. The plunger is coming up out of the assembly sort of sluggish or slower than the other (so when the flipper is coming back down) so since I have the ship off I was going to look at this a little closer.

You know, while moving flippers during waxing, I happened to notice that the right Pearl flipper had a lot of friction that the left one didn't.

Upon inspection I found that the vertical position of the flipper clamp was incorrect which caused the plunger to go into the coil at an angle. I loosened the pawl nut, adjusted things so the plunger and fipper had smooth travel and tightened it back up.

This greatly improved my upper playfield gameplay! I didn't realize how underpowered my right flipper was, and now I can tip it diagonally into the cannon hole more frequently. Plus get better spinner rips.

Not sure if this is your issue or not but since you have the pearl accessible I figured I'd mention it. BTW I made this adjustment without removing the Pearl.

#923 8 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I tried searching, but not getting good results. Can someone please point me to the install instructions for the cliffys? Looks like the pop bumper has to come out for the mystery hole and the ship out for the map hole. Have two smaller cliffys, not sure where they go.
Thx
[quoted image]

Bottom one is for the depths just snaps on from what I'm told still havent done mine other one is the second piece of the maphole cliffy gos in the back where screws go in

#924 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

You know, while moving flippers during waxing, I happened to notice that the right Pearl flipper had a lot of friction that the left one didn't.
Upon inspection I found that the vertical position of the flipper clamp was incorrect which caused the plunger to go into the coil at an angle. I loosened the pawl nut, adjusted things so the plunger and fipper had smooth travel and tightened it back up.
This greatly improved my upper playfield gameplay! I didn't realize how underpowered my right flipper was, and now I can tip it diagonally into the cannon hole more frequently. Plus get better spinner rips.
Not sure if this is your issue or not but since you have the pearl accessible I figured I'd mention it. BTW I made this adjustment without removing the Pearl.

I had binding on the left BP flipper and did the same fix. That flipper was sticking in the up position.

Also I had to get a replacement motor for the center disc. Not a difficult swap, but do know the wires are soldered onto the motor terminals. Thought maybe there was a connector spade but nope. Surprised it died so soon but it happens.

#925 8 months ago

Possibly.

I was simply going to take the flipper bay out of the housing that it’s in and test the plunger.

If it’s smooth, then I know it was the flipper.

Seems like 0.99 is generating higher scores as well for reasons..

#926 8 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Possibly.
I was simply going to take the flipper bay out of the housing that it’s in and test the plunger.
If it’s smooth, then I know it was the flipper.
Seems like 0.99 is generating higher scores as well for reasons..

I really wouldn't take it out. I would put the playfield into the service position, manually move the flippers and examine the plunger operation underneath. The diagnosis and the fix both can be done without Pearl removal.

Even if the Pearl is already out, I would not remove the flipper mech again because its -installed- position is the issue here.

#927 8 months ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Bottom one is for the depths just snaps on from what I'm told still havent done mine other one is the second piece of the maphole cliffy gos in the back where screws go in

Yup and yup.

Quoted from Lermods:

I tried searching, but not getting good results. Can someone please point me to the install instructions for the cliffys? Looks like the pop bumper has to come out for the mystery hole and the ship out for the map hole. Have two smaller cliffys, not sure where they go.
Thx
[quoted image]

When you get to installing the map hole Cliffy's, I'd check for the t-nut hanging out. It's easier then, to remove the subway and shave it s bit, versus doing that all at a later date, all over again.

Speaking of......

#928 8 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Looks like until I can get some star posts I’ll need to install the skinny factory posts on the 3/4” lexan washers.
Has there been any digging in with the star posts on top of the washers?
Anyone who has had the chipping put any type of automotive clear coat on the chip or any other product?

No digging I see. I also was very careful how tight I went on the posts.

#929 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Agree 100% on the pitch. Top of bubble to the second line plays perfect for me. I’ve played them steeper at shows and it makes it more frustrating not more fun.
For the flipper, it is almost certainly not the double-leaf switch that is causing excess resistance - those things take VERY little effort to engage.
Instead try just replacing the button. You may have one that is binding like the gold button, or maybe it just has a really stiff spring.
If you’re still unhappy at that point, then look at doing more...but you really want to retain the two stage functionality if you can.
As you progress in skill there will be a point where you want to cradle a ball on the lower flipper while engaging the top one.

Why do you want or need the double action on the flippers?

#930 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Why do you want or need the double action on the flippers?

so you can keep a ball trapped on the lower flipper while still being able to use the upper flipper

#931 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Why do you want or need the double action on the flippers?

As pickle eric notes... so you can "git gud"

#932 8 months ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

As pickle eric notes... so you can "git gud"

Eeeesh. Crazy.

#933 8 months ago

Trust me, it's thing you'll want to do at some point!

#934 8 months ago

Welp, t-nut, I'm coming atcha!

Just a wee bit over the Cliffy even, but I found slight nicks on two balls, with just 57 games played. Might as well shave this nut down. Dirty nut!

Screenshot_20190511-165139_Photos (resized).jpg
#935 8 months ago

Thanks zaphX on your flipper advice. Will see if I can change buttons and or bend the contacts slightly to make it a lighter feel.

Great to see agreement about pitch. I was loving it but was getting a bit frustrated.

#936 8 months ago

The other benefit to independent flippers I guess is being able to activate bottom left whilst not activating flipper over the depths. Many times I hold the flipper down too long all the way only to have some of my shots from left flipper to chest hit the top left flipper. Very hard to tell my brain to touch and caress the button lightly when I’m so god damn excited.

#937 8 months ago

Maybe I need to learn to move like Lyman to calm me down!

#938 8 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

The other benefit to independent flippers I guess is being able to activate bottom left whilst not activating flipper over the depths. Many times I hold the flipper down too long all the way only to have some of my shots from left flipper to chest hit the top left flipper. Very hard to tell my brain to touch and caress the button lightly when I’m so god damn excited.

Ahh yeah, I can relate to that. I always thought I should be adjusting the switches so they fired as close together as possible, lol.

#939 8 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I tried searching, but not getting good results. Can someone please point me to the install instructions for the cliffys? Looks like the pop bumper has to come out for the mystery hole and the ship out for the map hole. Have two smaller cliffys, not sure where they go.
Thx
[quoted image]

There's no install instruction for the lower one, it just snaps on from the topside of the playfield to The Depths kickout. The other one is the MAP2 protector that is part of the map protector. It's one of the first entries on the index in post 1 of this thread.

#940 8 months ago

Mylar ring sets if you have two star posts on each sling are in the pinmonk store on pinside. Two large rings, one small ring per sling. I'll be adding an all-slim set once I get enough punched out. The small ones are harder to make due to the size.
PotC mylar rings_pic (resized).jpg

#941 8 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Mylar ring sets if you have two star posts on each sling are in the pinmonk store on pinside. Two large rings, one small ring per sling. I'll be adding and all-slim set once I get enough punched out. The small ones are harder to make due to the size. [quoted image]

HA nice. Can you post a picture of yours all installed?

#942 8 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

HA nice. Can you post a picture of yours all installed?

They're clear so it's really hard to see them once installed, but I took a picture of a star post without the paper backing removed from the ring to give an idea of the coverage.

EDIT: If you look at the narrow post above the star post, the angle lighting is good enough that you can see the clear mylar on it.

PotC Mylar Ring Clearance (resized).jpg

#943 8 months ago

Perfect timing Pin Monk! I installed some clear rubber washers from Amazon under all my star posts on my TNA and they damaged the star posts. See my post here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/107#post-4988908

I know some fellow POTC owners have used these as well, so make sure to check your game if you have!

#944 8 months ago
Quoted from dgposter:

Perfect timing Pin Monk! I installed some clear rubber washers from Amazon under all my star posts on my TNA and they damaged the star posts. See my post here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/107#post-4988908
I know some fellow POTC owners have used these as well, so make sure to check your game if you have!

Wow, that's crazy. Definitely looks like some kind of chemical reaction with the disc and the star post plastic. I stuck with time-tested mylar because I've used it for decades in many kinds of applications on playfields and never had a problem, plus for this specific case, you're basically trying to protect from cutting and hold chips together, which mylar is perfect for.

#945 8 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Wow, that's crazy. Definitely looks like some kind of chemical reaction with the disc and the star post plastic.

Well between this and my escaping sling kicker I'm ready to switch to mylar circles.

Do you have any that are the size of the star posts? I really don't want a visible ring around them if I can help it.

#946 8 months ago

Why not put star posts on all three?

You going to make a set with 6 of the larger Mylar washers?

#947 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Well between this and my escaping sling kicker I'm ready to switch to mylar circles.
Do you have any that are the size of the star posts? I really don't want a visible ring around them if I can help it.

You won't see them unless you're really looking since they're very hard to see installed, especially if you smooth them to your playfield with a fingernail when installing to remove any hint of air.

I originally made them MUCH bigger (See original post here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/7#post-4958109), then made them exactly the size of the star post base, but that posed a problem because you're trying to protect the edges from cutting and chipping and the star post plastic can shift about a mm on the metal post, which shifts it OFF the mylar, so then I settled on this size which gives enough of a buffer that the edges can't get off the mylar, even if the star post shifts a little any direction.

#948 8 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

You won't see them unless you're really looking since they're very hard to see installed, especially if you smooth them to your playfield with a fingernail when installing to remove any hint of air.
I originally made them MUCH bigger (see the post in the index where I posted pics), then made them exactly the size of the star post base, but that posed a problem because you're trying to protect the edges from cutting and chipping and the star post plastic can shift about a mm on the metal post, which shifts it OFF the mylar, so then I settled on this size which gives enough of a buffer that the edges can't get off the mylar, even if the star post shifts a little any direction.

Gotcha. Ok I am in for a set of 6 large and 6 small (in case I return the original posts for some reason.) What a whipping this is.

#949 8 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Why not put star posts on all three?
You going to make a set with 6 of the larger Mylar washers?

My personal preference is to leave the back alone since you don't really see it. But once I get better at making the small ones and have more of the big ones left, I'll probably make 3 or 4 variant sets and you can just get the one you want.

#950 8 months ago

These look much thinner than most of the lexan and nylon washers, is this the case?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 87.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
11,500 (Firm)
Sale Pending!
Nashville, TN
$ 89.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Hookedonpinball.com
$ 23.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
The MOD Couple
$ 259.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
$ 233.10
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinWoofer
12,500
Machine - For Sale
Minneapolis, MN
There are 2470 posts in this topic. You are on page 19 of 50.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside