(Topic ID: 240503)

jjPirates of the Caribbean Troubleshooting/Tips/Issues jjPotC Tech

By PinMonk

4 years ago


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#701 4 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

If you’re saying the kit I installed is $40 worth of parts, I know that’s not correct. :p And remember the PinWoofer kit is to increase bass and the quality of bass sound. Not eliminate a popping sound from stock sub.
pinwoofer maybe can provide insight on the JJP pop but he doesn’t have a game on hand to see.

I'm fairly sure that's the case, like I said, not trying to throw shade as there is development time and costs, knowledge, testing, profit needed, business costs, etc. But those amp boards and step down boards are maybe $15-20 of parts, less even wholesale, and a pyle 600w powered sub is $20. So maybe $50 with connectors and the plastic mounting board, etc.

Again, props to the creator for making the kit and doing the work but for people who have the knowledge this can be done on JJP titles pretty easily and cheaply.

**Ahhh ...no that model of sub is $40, so add $20.

#702 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'm fairly sure that's the case, like I said, not trying to throw shade as there is development time and costs, knowledge, testing, profit needed, business costs, etc. But those amp boards and step down boards are maybe $15-20 of parts, less even wholesale, and a pyle 600w powered sub is $20. So maybe $50 with connectors and the plastic mounting board, etc.
Again, props to the creator for making the kit and doing the work but for people who have the knowledge this can be done on JJP titles pretty easily and cheaply.
**Ahhh ...no that model of sub is $40, so add $20.

Right but that’s the case with many products. People like a nice packaged kit with everything already done just plug and play. Most don’t want to source the boards, buy wiring and pieces, cut, tin, crimp all the wires, etc and so on. If someone wants to diy it that’s cool too.

#703 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ah, I didn't see that post. From my rudimentary understanding it looks like something similar is happening with the boards they provide. I found plenty of amps like that which have soft start functions (delayed start) as well, I just wasn't sure if another amp would be warranted/needed so I was looking for a board that was simply a delay. It looks like, again I don't understand, the original audio output is broken down to line level so it can be then amplified and split to the new sub. I don't see why this would affect the startup to the speakers (it doesn't look like this solution interrupts the existing output to the speakers). Not to throw any shade, but it looks like that's about $40 worth of components at individual retail prices.
The components I am looking at, all accessories included, cost about $15-20 maybe.
I am not against just adding a woofer kit if that just "solves" the problem but I'd like to know why/how. Maybe pinwoofer would want to comment as to if this an intended result of their system and/or how/why it does this.
** also, given the way JJP games are setup the install could probably be a lot cleaner since we have 1/4" audio connectors and molex 12v power.

There is no intended solution to power pop as a result of using our product and I don't recommend looking to our product as a solution to this problem. At the same time I would also not put it out of the realm of possibilities because it may be a timing thing (maybe coincidence, one off, if it has happened this way). If somehow the PinWoofer solves this on POTC / JJP, I'd like to thoroughly confirm it (correlate a few installs and I can dig into "why"). Also / if so, does it solve it for both the cabinet speaker and backbox?

I'd encourage you to read through the "New Amplified Subwoofer Kits by PinWoofer" thread. I get the take on cost of parts, but also want you to consider the ease of install, delivered to your door, having things exactly matched with spare connectors, tested and serialized. Our kit is common to many customers and is obscenely quick to install. All of these needles have been poked and discussed (and IV needle removed). There is room for the DIY'er and the guy who wants turnkey. We're here for the latter and just want pinball to get better like everyone. We also have product support for those who need it (some need a lot of it and that's OK). We strive to add value.

Thanks for the interesting post!

#704 4 years ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

There is no intended solution to power pop as a result of using our product and I don't recommend looking to our product as a solution to this problem. At the same time I would also not put it out of the realm of possibilities because it may be a timing thing (maybe coincidence, one off, if it has happened this way). If somehow the PinWoofer solves this on POTC / JJP, I'd like to thoroughly confirm it (correlate a few installs and I can dig into "why"). Also / if so, does it solve it for both the cabinet speaker and backbox?
I'd encourage you to read through the "New Amplified Subwoofer Kits by PinWoofer" thread. I get the take on cost of parts, but also want you to consider the ease of install, delivered to your door, having things exactly matched with spare connectors, tested and serialized. Our kit is common to many customers and is obscenely quick to install. All of these needles have been poked and discussed (and IV needle removed). There is room for the DIY'er and the guy who wants turnkey. We're here for the latter and just want pinball to get better like everyone. We also have product support for those who need it (some need a lot of it and that's OK). We strive to add value.
Thanks for the interesting post!

Backbox speakers still pop, but those are quiet anyways so it’s a non issue to me. PinWoofer Sub does not.

#705 4 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Backbox speakers still pop, but those are quiet anyways so it’s a non issue to me. PinWoofer Sub does not.

f3honda4me thanks for confirming that! Let me know if you find out more. I'll get close to my old WOZ in the near future and try that also.

#706 4 years ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

f3honda4me thanks for confirming that! Let me know if you find out more. I'll get close to my old WOZ in the near future and try that also.

My WOZ doesn’t exhibit this behavior to the extent JJPOTC does. Not sure why the pop is so loud on JJPOTC.

#707 4 years ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

There is no intended solution to power pop as a result of using our product and I don't recommend looking to our product as a solution to this problem. At the same time I would also not put it out of the realm of possibilities because it may be a timing thing (maybe coincidence, one off, if it has happened this way). If somehow the PinWoofer solves this on POTC / JJP, I'd like to thoroughly confirm it (correlate a few installs and I can dig into "why"). Also / if so, does it solve it for both the cabinet speaker and backbox?
I'd encourage you to read through the "New Amplified Subwoofer Kits by PinWoofer" thread. I get the take on cost of parts, but also want you to consider the ease of install, delivered to your door, having things exactly matched with spare connectors, tested and serialized. Our kit is common to many customers and is obscenely quick to install. All of these needles have been poked and discussed (and IV needle removed). There is room for the DIY'er and the guy who wants turnkey. We're here for the latter and just want pinball to get better like everyone. We also have product support for those who need it (some need a lot of it and that's OK). We strive to add value.
Thanks for the interesting post!

I feel like I need to keep reminding this thread that I'm not talking about the "pop". For a good 10 seconds or more after the power switch is flipped on my machine it makes many pops, cracks, loud whines, etc. My general volume is around 19 but I haven't been home to look at the individual levels, which has been discussed for another issue (audio clipping during the game). I haven't looked at the routing (nor changed it) of the audio cables, which I also intend to do. I mean, I obviously know what the pop sounds like.. my WMS games are very noticable and I could really care less about that, although it seems like it is somewhat easily solved on WMS games (per the other thread I linked) and probably should have been, and could be, solved on JJP games. I guess I'm anal, as apparently many pin folks are, so that would have been one of the things that I would have griped about during testing an original JJP game if that was my job. I mean, they revamped how a major pin manufacturer conceptualized componentry in an antiquated world, why still have the pop?

PinWoofer - how about offering a product to solve the pop? Might be a nice complement and I don't know of any other "audio" focused mod manufacturer so you seem like a natural fit. All of the older threads I've read from the WMS issue had bad links to people who maybe sold a solution at one time or another for WMS. I am betting that, much like your woofer kit, there could be a somewhat generic install that maybe just comes with the proper connectors for the various systems. You seem to have the knowledge and understanding of the audio and personally, if the cost was right, I'd be happy buying a kit if I didn't have to spend this tedious time trying to figure out how to resolve this. It seems like there are now (as compared to back when the WMS issue was hot) many options for these small chinese boards that do many, many things, so maybe there is a solution that can be easily produced. If not, it seems like the PCBs are stupid cheap to make... the prior thread (I think it was like 4-5 years old) had the cost of the PCB at like $30 a piece and there are only like 5 components on it.

Either way, I'll post my results when I get home. I've been kicking this around on reddit with folks way more qualified than I and they have proposed a few solutions but many of them above my pay grade, which is why I've been trying to source some sort of existing board. Since I don't know what exactly is causing my issue, and it could totally be a audio cable routing issue as it totally sounds like feedback, but I doubt I'll be able to get resolution any other way than fixing it myself. I'll definitely record it and post so everyone can hear and send it over to JJP for their comments, since the game is so new. But like I said, I'd nab 3 kits right now if they were $30. Heck, even if it was a componentry kit that I had to solder, if all the pieces were there and it was a printed PCB with clear instructions, sold. I mean, people are spending $60 on some plastic light up wands for TOM, $30 for a slick piece of componentry seems like nothing for this crowd.

(Oh.. and to clarify, I was lumping together the "pop" and the 10 seconds of craziness my game has in the "I'd pay $30 to fix this" because I was sort of falling back on the solution I am working on which is a power on delay circuit that would either keep the speakers from having audio or the amp from having power for X seconds after the game is turned on. I don't know, and reddit is mixed, if providing power to the amp later will still create the pop or if using a relay to disconnect the speakers will introduce another pop. The true fix for the pop on the WMS games seems to be something like this http://tuukan.fliput.net/nonoise_en.html and maybe that is the same for JJP, although the amp and such are completely different so not sure if it still applies)

#708 4 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

My WOZ doesn’t exhibit this behavior to the extent JJPOTC does. Not sure why the pop is so loud on JJPOTC.

Out of curiosity, have you made any changes to the audio cable routing at all on POTC?

#709 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I feel like I need to keep reminding this thread that I'm not talking about the "pop". For a good 10 seconds or more after the power switch is flipped on my machine it makes many pops, cracks, loud whines, etc. My general volume is around 19 but I haven't been home to look at the individual levels, which has been discussed for another issue (audio clipping during the game). I haven't looked at the routing (nor changed it) of the audio cables, which I also intend to do. I mean, I obviously know what the pop sounds like.. my WMS games are very noticable and I could really care less about that, although it seems like it is somewhat easily solved on WMS games (per the other thread I linked) and probably should have been, and could be, solved on JJP games. I guess I'm anal, as apparently many pin folks are, so that would have been one of the things that I would have griped about during testing an original JJP game if that was my job. I mean, they revamped how a major pin manufacturer conceptualized componentry in an antiquated world, why still have the pop?
pinwoofer - how about offering a product to solve the pop? Might be a nice complement and I don't know of any other "audio" focused mod manufacturer so you seem like a natural fit. All of the older threads I've read from the WMS issue had bad links to people who maybe sold a solution at one time or another for WMS. I am betting that, much like your woofer kit, there could be a somewhat generic install that maybe just comes with the proper connectors for the various systems. You seem to have the knowledge and understanding of the audio and personally, if the cost was right, I'd be happy buying a kit if I didn't have to spend this tedious time trying to figure out how to resolve this. It seems like there are now (as compared to back when the WMS issue was hot) many options for these small chinese boards that do many, many things, so maybe there is a solution that can be easily produced. If not, it seems like the PCBs are stupid cheap to make... the prior thread (I think it was like 4-5 years old) had the cost of the PCB at like $30 a piece and there are only like 5 components on it.
Either way, I'll post my results when I get home. I've been kicking this around on reddit with folks way more qualified than I and they have proposed a few solutions but many of them above my pay grade, which is why I've been trying to source some sort of existing board. Since I don't know what exactly is causing my issue, and it could totally be a audio cable routing issue as it totally sounds like feedback, but I doubt I'll be able to get resolution any other way than fixing it myself. I'll definitely record it and post so everyone can hear and send it over to JJP for their comments, since the game is so new. But like I said, I'd nab 3 kits right now if they were $30. Heck, even if it was a componentry kit that I had to solder, if all the pieces were there and it was a printed PCB with clear instructions, sold. I mean, people are spending $60 on some plastic light up wands for TOM, $30 for a slick piece of componentry seems like nothing for this crowd.
(Oh.. and to clarify, I was lumping together the "pop" and the 10 seconds of craziness my game has in the "I'd pay $30 to fix this" because I was sort of falling back on the solution I am working on which is a power on delay circuit that would either keep the speakers from having audio or the amp from having power for X seconds after the game is turned on. I don't know, and reddit is mixed, if providing power to the amp later will still create the pop or if using a relay to disconnect the speakers will introduce another pop. The true fix for the pop on the WMS games seems to be something like this http://tuukan.fliput.net/nonoise_en.html and maybe that is the same for JJP, although the amp and such are completely different so not sure if it still applies)

HH. Have you tried all of the suggestions in the POTC owners thread already covered? From routing, unplugging cable etc already covered? Seems like this worked for most just not sure if you tried the simple solutions first. Again, with an issue specific topic like this its always best to start at the top of the thread and search the key word: IE; "Audio". This search in the owners thread offered Many solutions to this issue from owners, distributors, as well as JJP directly. Hope you can find a simple solution. Good Luck!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club?tq=audio&tu=

#710 4 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

HH. Have you tried all of the suggestions in the POTC owners thread already covered? From routing, unplugging cable etc already covered? Seems like this worked for most just not sure if you tried the simple solutions first. Again, with an issue specific topic like this its always best to start at the top of the thread and search the key word: IE; "Audio". This search in the owners thread offered Many solutions to this issue from owners, distributors, as well as JJP directly. Hope you can find a simple solution. Good Luck!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club?tq=audio&tu=

Yea that's what I was referring to with the rerouting of cables and volume settings. I am going to do those first, but I've been away from home so looking at other solutions which should end up serving a dual purpose so even if I find an existing solution works for my 10 seconds of crap, to have a solution for the initial "pop" as an offshoot is good too.

#711 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Out of curiosity, have you made any changes to the audio cable routing at all on POTC?

No

#712 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I feel like I need to keep reminding this thread that I'm not talking about the "pop". For a good 10 seconds or more after the power switch is flipped on my machine it makes many pops, cracks, loud whines, etc. My general volume is around 19 but I haven't been home to look at the individual levels, which has been discussed for another issue (audio clipping during the game). I haven't looked at the routing (nor changed it) of the audio cables, which I also intend to do. I mean, I obviously know what the pop sounds like.. my WMS games are very noticable and I could really care less about that, although it seems like it is somewhat easily solved on WMS games (per the other thread I linked) and probably should have been, and could be, solved on JJP games. I guess I'm anal, as apparently many pin folks are, so that would have been one of the things that I would have griped about during testing an original JJP game if that was my job. I mean, they revamped how a major pin manufacturer conceptualized componentry in an antiquated world, why still have the pop?
pinwoofer - how about offering a product to solve the pop? Might be a nice complement and I don't know of any other "audio" focused mod manufacturer so you seem like a natural fit. All of the older threads I've read from the WMS issue had bad links to people who maybe sold a solution at one time or another for WMS. I am betting that, much like your woofer kit, there could be a somewhat generic install that maybe just comes with the proper connectors for the various systems. You seem to have the knowledge and understanding of the audio and personally, if the cost was right, I'd be happy buying a kit if I didn't have to spend this tedious time trying to figure out how to resolve this. It seems like there are now (as compared to back when the WMS issue was hot) many options for these small chinese boards that do many, many things, so maybe there is a solution that can be easily produced. If not, it seems like the PCBs are stupid cheap to make... the prior thread (I think it was like 4-5 years old) had the cost of the PCB at like $30 a piece and there are only like 5 components on it.
Either way, I'll post my results when I get home. I've been kicking this around on reddit with folks way more qualified than I and they have proposed a few solutions but many of them above my pay grade, which is why I've been trying to source some sort of existing board. Since I don't know what exactly is causing my issue, and it could totally be a audio cable routing issue as it totally sounds like feedback, but I doubt I'll be able to get resolution any other way than fixing it myself. I'll definitely record it and post so everyone can hear and send it over to JJP for their comments, since the game is so new. But like I said, I'd nab 3 kits right now if they were $30. Heck, even if it was a componentry kit that I had to solder, if all the pieces were there and it was a printed PCB with clear instructions, sold. I mean, people are spending $60 on some plastic light up wands for TOM, $30 for a slick piece of componentry seems like nothing for this crowd.
(Oh.. and to clarify, I was lumping together the "pop" and the 10 seconds of craziness my game has in the "I'd pay $30 to fix this" because I was sort of falling back on the solution I am working on which is a power on delay circuit that would either keep the speakers from having audio or the amp from having power for X seconds after the game is turned on. I don't know, and reddit is mixed, if providing power to the amp later will still create the pop or if using a relay to disconnect the speakers will introduce another pop. The true fix for the pop on the WMS games seems to be something like this http://tuukan.fliput.net/nonoise_en.html and maybe that is the same for JJP, although the amp and such are completely different so not sure if it still applies)

harryhoudini - I'm completely consumed with PinWoofer2 PCB development so it will be awhile before I could really give this it's due. However, for the sake of speed perhaps you could answer a few questions and try a couple of things. My sincere apologies if what I'm asking below was covered in the past 700 posts and we can take this offline if necessary. Bear with me (I'm not trying to insult anyone's intelligence on the obvious and I assume the routine wiggling of the cables and connectors/headers has been tried):

Questions / things to try:
-Is there an audio out jack on the sound card? RCA, 3.5mm phono, other that would allow you to tap the pre-amp? Have you routed this signal "off-pin" to some other stereo / amplifier to see if the popping and crackling follows the pre-amp? If the speakers remain "live" with the audio out connected you may need to disconnect them to eliminate the potential that the speakers are not a source of feedback to the sound card.
-Does the popping persist if either one of the a) cabinet speaker or 2) backbox speakers are disconnected from the sound card (just one at a time)?
-Are there filter capacitors on the backbox speakers? Have you tried disconnecting them?
-Is there a digital cable routed to the sound board? Does the crackling / popping persist when this digital cable is removed?
-Are there any other passive filter elements present on the speakers - particularly the cabinet woofer? Big inductors or capacitors? Any resistors?
-Are these factory speakers in use?

I buy amps 100 at a time I can send you a couple if it makes sense to help debug this. Determining that the pre-amp is stable over time would suggest that aftermarket amps solve some problems but seems like a patch when the real problem is elsewhere. If it helps guys to get past these audio problems it can be made an option.

#713 4 years ago

Thank you for that, I'm on my way home from a trip, I'll check when I get there. I think I have a small amp I use with my Sonos system, thank you for the offer!

#714 4 years ago

Great post I’d be curious to see what this leads to!

Quoted from PinWoofer:

harryhoudini - I'm completely consumed with PinWoofer2 PCB development so it will be awhile before I could really give this it's due. However, for the sake of speed perhaps you could answer a few questions and try a couple of things. My sincere apologies if what I'm asking below was covered in the past 700 posts and we can take this offline if necessary. Bear with me (I'm not trying to insult anyone's intelligence on the obvious and I assume the routine wiggling of the cables and connectors/headers has been tried):
Questions / things to try:
-Is there an audio out jack on the sound card? RCA, 3.5mm phono, other that would allow you to tap the pre-amp? Have you routed this signal "off-pin" to some other stereo / amplifier to see if the popping and crackling follows the pre-amp? If the speakers remain "live" with the audio out connected you may need to disconnect them to eliminate the potential that the speakers are not a source of feedback to the sound card.
-Does the popping persist if either one of the a) cabinet speaker or 2) backbox speakers are disconnected from the sound card (just one at a time)?
-Are there filter capacitors on the backbox speakers? Have you tried disconnecting them?
-Is there a digital cable routed to the sound board? Does the crackling / popping persist when this digital cable is removed?
-Are there any other passive filter elements present on the speakers - particularly the cabinet woofer? Big inductors or capacitors? Any resistors?
-Are these factory speakers in use?
I buy amps 100 at a time I can send you a couple if it makes sense to help debug this. Determining that the pre-amp is stable over time would suggest that aftermarket amps solve some problems but seems like a patch when the real problem is elsewhere. If it helps guys to get past these audio problems it can be made an option.

#715 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I feel like I need to keep reminding this thread that I'm not talking about the "pop". For a good 10 seconds or more after the power switch is flipped on my machine it makes many pops, cracks, loud whines, etc. My general volume is around 19 but I haven't been home to look at the individual levels, which has been discussed for another issue (audio clipping during the game). I haven't looked at the routing (nor changed it) of the audio cables, which I also intend to do. I mean, I obviously know what the pop sounds like.. my WMS games are very noticable and I could really care less about that, although it seems like it is somewhat easily solved on WMS games (per the other thread I linked) and probably should have been, and could be, solved on JJP games. I guess I'm anal, as apparently many pin folks are, so that would have been one of the things that I would have griped about during testing an original JJP game if that was my job. I mean, they revamped how a major pin manufacturer conceptualized componentry in an antiquated world, why still have the pop?
pinwoofer - how about offering a product to solve the pop? Might be a nice complement and I don't know of any other "audio" focused mod manufacturer so you seem like a natural fit. All of the older threads I've read from the WMS issue had bad links to people who maybe sold a solution at one time or another for WMS. I am betting that, much like your woofer kit, there could be a somewhat generic install that maybe just comes with the proper connectors for the various systems. You seem to have the knowledge and understanding of the audio and personally, if the cost was right, I'd be happy buying a kit if I didn't have to spend this tedious time trying to figure out how to resolve this. It seems like there are now (as compared to back when the WMS issue was hot) many options for these small chinese boards that do many, many things, so maybe there is a solution that can be easily produced. If not, it seems like the PCBs are stupid cheap to make... the prior thread (I think it was like 4-5 years old) had the cost of the PCB at like $30 a piece and there are only like 5 components on it.
Either way, I'll post my results when I get home. I've been kicking this around on reddit with folks way more qualified than I and they have proposed a few solutions but many of them above my pay grade, which is why I've been trying to source some sort of existing board. Since I don't know what exactly is causing my issue, and it could totally be a audio cable routing issue as it totally sounds like feedback, but I doubt I'll be able to get resolution any other way than fixing it myself. I'll definitely record it and post so everyone can hear and send it over to JJP for their comments, since the game is so new. But like I said, I'd nab 3 kits right now if they were $30. Heck, even if it was a componentry kit that I had to solder, if all the pieces were there and it was a printed PCB with clear instructions, sold. I mean, people are spending $60 on some plastic light up wands for TOM, $30 for a slick piece of componentry seems like nothing for this crowd.
(Oh.. and to clarify, I was lumping together the "pop" and the 10 seconds of craziness my game has in the "I'd pay $30 to fix this" because I was sort of falling back on the solution I am working on which is a power on delay circuit that would either keep the speakers from having audio or the amp from having power for X seconds after the game is turned on. I don't know, and reddit is mixed, if providing power to the amp later will still create the pop or if using a relay to disconnect the speakers will introduce another pop. The true fix for the pop on the WMS games seems to be something like this http://tuukan.fliput.net/nonoise_en.html and maybe that is the same for JJP, although the amp and such are completely different so not sure if it still applies)

Love the passion and level of attention on this post.

I think you have it worse than I do. If by crackling, you mean static then ok. I think the clipping drives me crazier than anything else. No “loud whining” or anything. That’s...interesting.

I unplugged one cable (purple/black) near the bottom left at the front of the cabinet. Either it was the wrong cable or the fix didn’t help.

To reiterate, plug in headphones and 0 issue. I feel this “should” be a solid clue as to what’s going on. I.E. one thing is not like the other.

I couldn’t care less about that ridiculous pop when the game turns on. My AFMr doesn’t actually do this, but whatever.

Just wanted to echo my sentiments on this and I will work on this today and try to figure something out.

#716 4 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Love the passion and level of attention on this post.
I think you have it worse than I do. If by crackling, you mean static then ok. I think the clipping drives me crazier than anything else. No “loud whining” or anything. That’s...interesting.
I unplugged one cable (purple/black) near the bottom left at the front of the cabinet. Either it was the wrong cable or the fix didn’t help.
To reiterate, plug in headphones and 0 issue. I feel this “should” be a solid clue as to what’s going on. I.E. one thing is not like the other.
I couldn’t care less about that ridiculous pop when the game turns on. My AFMr doesn’t actually do this, but whatever.
Just wanted to echo my sentiments on this and I will work on this today and try to figure something out.

When are you going to try lowering the gain levels? Why do you keep complaining about it without even trying that? It will take 15 seconds and you'll either have it fixed or know one more thing that doesn't fix it.

#717 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

When are you going to try lowering the gain levels? Why do you keep complaining about it without even trying that? It will take 15 seconds and you'll either have it fixed or know one more thing that doesn't fix it.

I wasn’t complaining... okay maybe a little.

I know. I’ll do it and report back.

#718 4 years ago

I'm on a plane or I'd look at the sound board schematic, but it seems odd that the headphone jack wouldn't have that issue. Wondering if the board amplifies the different outputs differently. But I wouldn't imagine an analog amplifier (I mean it's not playing the digital files, it just takes the analog output from the PC board) wouldnt introduce clipping but it would have to be the sound board if the headphone jack isn't showing the symptoms.

#719 4 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Award for post of the Month. That was TOOOOO funny and to the point correct. LTG you always make my day thank you!
He has 482 posts in the POTC thread in Under 30 days. I am Betting the Over that he can beat that in the AFM threads.....lol

This is why I tried to help him by mentioning to him to start his own personal game thread on the other Pirates Thread... now this thread is out of control like the other one..its not fun for people to search thru all these posts

#720 4 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

To reiterate, plug in headphones and 0 issue. I feel this “should” be a solid clue as to what’s going on. I.E. one thing is not like the other.

joseph5185 I have two suggestions you can try:

1) if there are filter caps on the backbox speakers, disconnect them. It is possible that one has gone bad.
2) are you certain that your speakers are in-phase? Meaning that the correct wires are tied to "+" and "-". This applies to both the backbox speakers as well as the cabinet speaker. Listen to one speaker at a time. An out of phase condition will will make things sound terrible.

These might be long-shots - trying to help out.

Thanks

#721 4 years ago
Quoted from PinWoofer:

joseph5185 I have two suggestions you can try:
1) if there are filter caps on the backbox speakers, disconnect them. It is possible that one has gone bad.
2) are you certain that your speakers are in-phase? Meaning that the correct wires are tied to "+" and "-". This applies to both the backbox speakers as well as the cabinet speaker. Listen to one speaker at a time. An out of phase condition will will make things sound terrible.
These might be long-shots - trying to help out.
Thanks

Pretty sure the cabinet speakers are a single rca cable to each, but that's just going off what comes out of the sound board. Don't think they have caps either. The way he describes the issue it sounds like digital playback faltering but that seems odd. Who knows, could be a bad Mobo or hard drive causing issues. But we still need info on the sound level testing, moving the noise isolator...

(From 30k feet)

#722 4 years ago

Updated my seperate post with the "startup sounds" issue https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/audio-popping-on-power-on-in-jjp-games#post-4977309 ... get your popcorn and beer!

#723 4 years ago

Just bought an LE. Blown away. Awesome game. Have an issue with dauntless not sitting correctly, and cannon not hitting hole. I know this has been brought up before and Yelobird posted a photo of the assembly behind the play field. Mine looks different as I do not have a nut. But when I look in the manual it does not have a nut either. Anyway here is my out of whack dauntless and the bottom of the assembly. Any ideas on how to fix. I shall contact support.

0467C080-4F21-4497-920C-F9D8A9D33B1F (resized).jpeg0467C080-4F21-4497-920C-F9D8A9D33B1F (resized).jpeg7A403BFC-6FD6-42A7-9C8A-4B29055BF925 (resized).jpeg7A403BFC-6FD6-42A7-9C8A-4B29055BF925 (resized).jpeg
#724 4 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Just bought an LE. Blown away. Awesome game. Have an issue with dauntless not sitting correctly, and cannon not hitting hole. I know this has been brought up before and Yelobird posted a photo of the assembly behind the play field. Mine looks different as I do not have a nut. But when I look in the manual it does not have a nut either. Anyway here is my out of whack dauntless and the bottom of the assembly. Any ideas on how to fix. I shall contact support. [quoted image][quoted image]

The dauntless pic is too close, I don't know what I'm looking at. Can you do a wider shot? How do you know the dauntless is the problem and not the black pearl cannon alignment?

#725 4 years ago

I showed the dauntless from above to point out that it juts forward compared to the fixed deck, whereas other people seem to have the hull and the deck aligned. Here are other photos including the cannon alignment. I searched for any posts on cannon alignment or fixing the position of the dauntless but could not find anything. As stated Yelobird's photo of the mechanism for the dauntless has an extra nut which I do not have and is not shown in the manual.

IMG_1018.jpgIMG_1018.jpgIMG_1019.jpgIMG_1019.jpgIMG_1021.jpgIMG_1021.jpg
#727 4 years ago

Good man using that search function. Let us know if you have any issues with alignment. Need to sink that Dauntless!!! Congrats!

#728 4 years ago

As others have stated grabbing a 5/16" thickness may be difficult, but since it is only 1 1/4" long, maybe 1/4" thickness would suffice? Anyway, I will grab what I can in that length, try it and report back.

#729 4 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

As others have stated grabbing a 5/16" thickness may be difficult, but since it is only 1 1/4" long, maybe 1/4" thickness would suffice? Anyway, I will grab what I can in that length, try it and report back.

I got the 1/4" thick hex posts and they work great. I sink the ship pretty much every time.

#730 4 years ago

Check to make sure the wire loom behind it isn't making it stick

#731 4 years ago

Thanks Spidey! Good to know!

Thanks Gliebig, the wires seem to be pretty loose and has play. Will check again.

#732 4 years ago

Lots of updates and some success with the whining and popping on my game... more of interest to those in this thread is just the popping

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/audio-popping-on-power-on-in-jjp-games

#733 4 years ago

I'm SO CLOSE to playing this game...

I noticed my right wireform exit hole or w/e that sites over the inlane is not level. It's at an angle and driving me crazy.
I'm trying to adjust it and it's...hell.

I haven't tried removing the pressure washer that tightens on the right side of the BP.

From what I can gather, the wireform does not go in very far underneath that ramp. When I go to try and tighten the screw on the right sling it just leans to the right and it's not level ... like from the pressure or something.

Idk...

#734 4 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I'm SO CLOSE to playing this game...
I noticed my right wireform exit hole or w/e that sites over the inlane is not level. It's at an angle and driving me crazy.
I'm trying to adjust it and it's...hell.
I haven't tried removing the pressure washer that tightens on the right side of the BP.
From what I can gather, the wireform does not go in very far underneath that ramp. When I go to try and tighten the screw on the right sling it just leans to the right and it's not level ... like from the pressure or something.
Idk...

It won't be perfectly level. I've never seen it so on any machine. As long as it's dropping the ball in the right place, move on.

Please seek help.

#735 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It won't be perfectly level. I've never seen it so on any machine. As long as it's dropping the ball in the right place, move on.
Please seek help.

I appreciate that! I really do.

That would make sense... It's just, I looked at the left and it looks level. I look at my two on AFMr and they are level so silly me thinking that the right should also be level as well.

But I can breathe easier now! =)

#736 4 years ago

PLAY THE FREAKING GAME ALREADY!

#737 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

PLAY THE FREAKING GAME ALREADY!

But then it will dimple and there will be more to obsess over!

#738 4 years ago

Sorry!

If something "doesn't look right" I'm going to question it. BUT, if it's a non-issue then great!

#739 4 years ago

My LE was delivered to a friends house last week and I’m moving it to mine this weekend. Very excited but he’s noticed a few issues whilst ‘testing’ it for me:

1. Shots to The Devils Triangle don’t seem to register at all.
2. The gate to access the cannon shot on the Pearl doesnt open properly, although we managed to get it in once.
3. 90% of the shots to the Maelstrom ramp end up in the bowl even if the multiball isn’t lit.
4. With the lockbar fully secured, the action button is closed. We had to play with the lockbar slightly loose for the action button to register.
5. The action button is getting stuck a little.
6. Upper left flipper is temperamental.
7. Chest ball release got stuck once.
8. Ball occasionally jumps out of left ramp if hit hard
9. Ball occasionally gets stuck above the light on the right of the playfield.

I’m sure most of these are minor issues and I do plan on reading through this thread, but if anyone has experienced any of the above issues and can point me in the right direction I’d appreciate it!

#740 4 years ago
Quoted from JustLikeMe:

My LE was delivered to a friends house last week and I’m moving it to mine this weekend. Very excited but he’s noticed a few issues whilst ‘testing’ it for me:
1. Shots to The Devils Triangle don’t seem to register at all.
2. The gate to access the cannon shot on the Pearl doesnt open properly, although we managed to get it in once.
3. 90% of the shots to the Maelstrom ramp end up in the bowl even if the multiball isn’t lit.
4. With the lockbar fully secured, the action button is closed. We had to play with the lockbar slightly loose for the action button to register.
5. The action button is getting stuck a little.
6. Upper left flipper is temperamental.
7. Chest ball release got stuck once.
8. Ball occasionally jumps out of left ramp if hit hard
9. Ball occasionally gets stuck above the light on the right of the playfield.
I’m sure most of these are minor issues and I do plan on reading through this thread, but if anyone has experienced any of the above issues and can point me in the right direction I’d appreciate it!

Wherever you posted this previous others responded with details on how to fix, or what to look at, for most of these items. The button thing is well covered in the index, the left ramp jumping is flipper power related, etc.

#741 4 years ago

I looked at a friend's game and that right wireform leans to the right exactly how mine does when it's secured around that sling bracket.

Awesome!

#742 4 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Sorry!
If something "doesn't look right" I'm going to question it. BUT, if it's a non-issue then great!

Seeking perfection in pinball lies the path to madness.

#743 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Seeking perfection in pinball lies the path to madness.

I couldn't agree more. I'm nearly done with all I sought out to do and I very much look forward to playing daily maybe starting TODAY!

I'll post some pathetic score just as proof that I have actually started playing! (in the main thread)

#744 4 years ago
Quoted from JustLikeMe:

My LE was delivered to a friends house last week and I’m moving it to mine this weekend. Very excited but he’s noticed a few issues whilst ‘testing’ it for me:
1. Shots to The Devils Triangle don’t seem to register at all.
2. The gate to access the cannon shot on the Pearl doesnt open properly, although we managed to get it in once.
3. 90% of the shots to the Maelstrom ramp end up in the bowl even if the multiball isn’t lit.
4. With the lockbar fully secured, the action button is closed. We had to play with the lockbar slightly loose for the action button to register.
5. The action button is getting stuck a little.
6. Upper left flipper is temperamental.
7. Chest ball release got stuck once.
8. Ball occasionally jumps out of left ramp if hit hard
9. Ball occasionally gets stuck above the light on the right of the playfield.
I’m sure most of these are minor issues and I do plan on reading through this thread, but if anyone has experienced any of the above issues and can point me in the right direction I’d appreciate it!

You don't have to read the whole thread. Just scan the index on post 1 and follow the links to the issues that yours has.

#745 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You don't have to read the whole thread. Just scan the index on post 1 and follow the links to the issues that yours has.

It will probably take you some time.

I hope you don't have as difficult a time as some of us did, but PLEASE feel free to PM me and I'm happy to share any knowledge that I have learned over a month or so.

#746 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Wherever you posted this previous others responded with details on how to fix, or what to look at, for most of these items. The button thing is well covered in the index, the left ramp jumping is flipper power related, etc.

Yup I posted the first four items in the other thread and zaphX kindly made some suggestions, but the other five are new. When I noticed that there was a specific troubleshooting thread I thought I may as well include the original four in case the previously posted suggestions don’t help when I actually have my game here to test and adjust, and in the hopes that some may be reading this thread and not the other.

Also I don’t think the suggestions made for items 3 and 4 were applicable to my specific issues, but sorry to offend I guess.

Quoted from PinMonk:

You don't have to read the whole thread. Just scan the index on post 1 and follow the links to the issues that yours has.

Apologies, I did read the first post but didn’t see any of these issues listed. Will check again tomorrow, late here now!

Quoted from joseph5185:

I hope you don't have as difficult a time as some of us did, but PLEASE feel free to PM me and I'm happy to share any knowledge that I have learned over a month or so.

Cheers, appreciate it!

#747 4 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Sorry!
If something "doesn't look right" I'm going to question it. BUT, if it's a non-issue then great!

You need to stop obsessing over every little detail and just play it. By playing it, you'll discover if something isn't working right. THEN you can fix it. :/

#748 4 years ago
Quoted from JustLikeMe:

but sorry to offend I guess.

No offense, just letting you know there were some answers there.

#749 4 years ago

Hallelujah! I can make a tortuga hole shot now!! I'm not totally inept at pinball!

The replacement tortuga hole cover (snubber bracket) solves the issue!! Can't comment on the STDM yet, but the launch trajectory is definitely different.

New on left
0507191557 (resized).jpg0507191557 (resized).jpg

Closeup
0507191608 (resized).jpg0507191608 (resized).jpg

Oh and thanks to Steve at JJP for taking care of this so damn quick.

#750 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Hallelujah! I can make a tortuga hole shot now!! I'm not totally inept at pinball!
The replacement tortuga hole cover (snubber bracket) solves the issue!! Can't comment on the STDM yet, but the launch trajectory is definitely different.
New on left
[quoted image]
Closeup
[quoted image]

Did JJP send this to you, or did you buy it from PBL or Marco?

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