Lol, well the holidays make for slow shipping speeds and sometimes you just have to grab whatever works until replacement parts show up!

Ok I’ll bite. How so?

No adjustment unfortunately. I added the Polk subwoofer and it is better. It is still missing quite a bit of the lower end of the midrange if you compare it to listening on headphones. Headphone track is phenomenal. Unfortunately the stock speakers are really squeezed in there so not a whole lot of room to swap them out. Trying an external solution but Amazon lost my amp in transit...grr. Will report back with anything I finalize on.

They may be trying to have you shoot up before playing and get you “hooked” on luxury pins - JJP.

Which polk do u suggest? Hooking into the high level inputs at the sub terminals?

Mission accomplished!

You can. I just picked up the new Polk PSW10 that everyone seems to like. The new one is better than the old one I had on my Hobbit but still just as inexpensive. Much cleaner bass.

There is also a 3.5mm cable coming out of main CPU over to the amp in the backbox. I just used a headphone splitter and connected in that way. But I also had the intent to add in an amp and new speaker system in the bottom of the cab so this made sense. This way I can control the treble and bass and crossover point.

Thats a great idea! Obviously this is a low level output primed for amplification?

Yep, just like on the virtual cabinet I made. There are some decent cheap amps that fit right in the cabinet easily. By tapping in there, you get the full signal and not just what JJP set for the sub.

So how many JJPOTC’s are leaving the factory these days (25 /week)?

Is it only CE’s for the whole run, followed by LE’s and then SE’s?

That is not accurate, but a lot of them made it out before the end of the year.

not sure on the number. yes, it was CE only until the allotment was fulfilled. Then it will be back to LE/SE at the same time.

I started noticing inconsistent chest fork today - removed the 5 screw mech and sure enough the 2 fork screws were loose.

Fixed that and it plays much better now. If it happens again I’ll put loctite on them.

Aside from this the game has been 100%.

ELI5: Liar’s Dice

I put them on my DICE. The large holes for the pivot bolts on the blades from pinball decals are just slightly off the bolt holes on the JJP cabs. Just need to use a grinder/dremel to make the hole bigger in the mirror blade. I had a bit of a rough time doing it and had the bit “run” on me a couple times and scratch the blade up pretty good. Got them on eventually and they really make the light shows pop.

Yeah, not true. Still waiting on notice for mine.

they are not built in numerical order. i am still waiting on about half of my order. was told i should have another 5 or so ready this week.

Someone in Kansas City is getting this game. Can we be friends? . Wish we had it on route since the time I spent with it at the cle pin show was a lot of fun. Congrats.

Definately not the case. Mine was built mid December and it is #31. I am sure they are all in process and making their way to tortuga homes around the world soon.

Almost all but not quite all CEs are built - once they’re done it’s back to LEs and Standards

I received mine and it is #53. Game played 99% out of the box with some small adjustments. Last night the Bumper VUK wasn't retracting and starting to have some issues with the fork under the chest. I will look at all of this tonight. Prob need to tighten a few screws. Will report back....game is fantastic

Yea the chest forks being loose was a problem on mine too. Quick and easy fix though.

Me too. Did you use any loctite or similar on them, or just tighten them?

I just tightened them really good. So far they haven't loosened up again.

Mine is #69 (not joking...same as DICE) and it's leaving JJP tomorrow.

I have 2 CE’s available but they will be the last few off the line.

Let me know your favorite beverage and we can definitely make that happen.

Anyone else having issues with their bumper VUK? The VUK on my game doesn't seem to reset its self all of the time. I can see the black center plunger trying to drop back down but isn't always successful. Are there any adjustments that can be made? Tightened all of my screws on the fork for the chest and it works perfectly now.

Is it possible an opto wire or something is snaking its way under the plunger on the bottom? Check to make sure everything is well dressed and out of the way.

Hey eric! Yes initially there were some wires in the way. I relocated them and now the black plunger looks to be off center from the metal plate it moves through, if that makes sense

With that solution investigated (cannon alignment) I came across what I am going to call a PPSA (Pirates Public Service Announcement!!!!). As my game is a Recent CE delivery I thought it would be best to let the CE group check also. Lloyd, Eric I do ask that this be recognized at the factory as I suspect this Will be an issue for some soon. In reviewing the Dauntless movement issue I looked over the wiring to the rear of the back board going to the Dauntless switches. In less then 50 plays my wire was already sheared off! (red wire in my case) This was caused by a Very tight wire harness with limited flexibility attached to a Moving arm with a razor sharp steel edge. These wires never had a chance!! While I am not proud of my solution (not pretty) I wanted to share a solution that most would have to at least repair or protect this from happening. As can be seen from the bottom of the playfield there is actually Plenty of wire available but in my machines case it is all bundled with no relief. You need to snip roughly (3) zip ties from the wire harness to give this wires a few inches of motion. Verify by swaying your Dauntless (sounds dirty again) back and forth to ensure there is no pull. From there I soldered my wires and added electrical tape to the entire wire bunch. I also added (and recommend) a strip of tape over the edge of the metal channel these feed to. That at least gives the wires a fighting chance should they come in contact again! I admit I Hate electrical tape repairs personally but I wanted everyone to have an available solution to at least fix if needed. All in all a Minor assembly learning curve on a new product and no harm done just hope this can be passed on and help others. I am Very curious if this MAY be some of the Dauntless switch issues people are having at times.... Let me know if there are Any questions.

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Another DIYarrrrrr segment for those of us with older eyes or needing to see the flippers just a little bit better. This Very simple to install and low cost LED strip really adds just the right amount of light to both the flippers as well as the lower playfield area without any obtrusive lighting fixtures. With the small LCD encloser its like they designed this upgrade from the start. I used a simple ($2) LED strip (must be 12v!!) from CometPinball. They have it in several colors though I prefer the simply clear white for my view. Remove adhesive strip, center and it is completely hidden from the players view. Route the wire through the trough and connect to several 12v options below including the LCD itself which has a 12v power connector. Note in the CometPinball (Secret Stash) shelf on their website they offer a Longer 12v LED strip (as I used here) which can be cut to the correct length to add even more light though that costs ($5). Happy Pirating!

The Mod Couple

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Not loving the black flipper, worry not! Walk the Planks and collect the gold with the New Mod Couple Gold Plank custom flipper bat kit! Set of (3) custom made and individually painted with the look of wooden planks and it not be a Pirate plank without some Gold!! Each gold coin oriented to face the player. Simple and reversible install. Complete the look and flip in style! Golden Flipper Planks me hearties!! Available Today from our website store!!

www.TheModCouplePinball.com

The Mod Couple

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Second time barnacle has fallen off the machine on its own. The double sided tape is terrible. And now that it fell off it cracked also. What do I do ? Sent it to support but they still haven’t replied to my other issue from a month ago.

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Mine fell off as well.. glad it didnt break.

#69 in the house.

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Nice Buddy! I need to get my coin door done as well!

Installed this last night. Turned out really nice. Nice job Yelobird !

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That's really sad to see , I suppose you could glue it . Now I'll be paranoid of them falling off as mine's going on a hardwood floor , might have to put a few drops of superglue here and there just in case .

Agreed! I would like to be proactive about this as well! Has anyone contacted JJP about this issue and a possible resolution?

I did since I need a new one and awaiting one. Someone from support reaches out on pinside and found my ticket last night and said would follow up today from office.

From looking at the picture it could have used a lot more tape , if the underside isn't really flat you won't get much surface area sticking . I wouldn't want to attempt pulling them off to put more tape on and risk breaking them in the process . I don't like the thought of using super glue it can go cloudy and run , I wouldn't want to get any on the radcals , ideally you would put a couple drops from underneath but that would mean you need to flip the pin upside down ....good luck with that . If they did come off I would probably try to reattach them with a clear silicone it gives you a little bit of time for positioning and if there's any excess should be easy to get off .

JJP is shipping me a new one.

I think that looks great with the black armor!

What black armor? Thats the custom CE powder coat he just had the coin door done to match. Which looks Awesome by the way!!!