Pirates of the Caribbean
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
Pirates of the Caribbean (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2018You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider zora.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
As far as I know you can order a full playfield protector to be installed on the production line. However, I habe not yet seen any comments in this regard. Does anybody order such protectors? And if so what is the experience? Different play feeling? Which quality?
I am a bit confused regarding the reason for the production stop, which seems far too early to me. One said it is not licence related. So what is the true reason? Set up of the next (unknown) JJP game on the production line? Demand should be there for Pirates.
Does anyone know more details?
I'm no expert, but with WOZ again on the line and two new games for 2019, it might be tough to find a spot. Also, I read somewhere that they are out of certain parts. Just imagine TS and WW really selling well and another new game in 2020... I'm sure there will be another production run sooner or later though.
If the JJP team / Eric reads the pinside forum, it might be a good idea to drop some comments on the future production planes for pirates. That would elinate the speculations here.
Eric, any comments in this regard?
Dear Jack,
dear Eric,
dear Keith,
I address this thread to you personally, because I know that you read pinside. I followed the development of the POTC in the last year very closely and was very positively impressed by your open communication to the pinball community.
Consequently, I am a bit frustrated about the information and communication policy in the last 2 weeks or so. Many rumours are spred, which is not favourable for JJP. I am in the decision making process of buying a POTC, but would like to be informed what happens in the Moment and what is planned exactly. I assume that the community has the same interest. Therefore, I would highly appreciate, if you could provide us with answers to the following questions, so that the rumours might come to an end:
1. Will the production licence end by the end of March 2019 definitely?
2. Does this mean that POTC will not be built in future any longer, not shortly and not in later months/years?
3. Is it ensured that sufficient spare parts will be available in future without hoping for the secondary market?
Thanks a lot in advance. Sorry to be very direct.
Quoted from Yelobird:While a great company with an amazing team of talent and support I Highly doubt they are going to disclose the business plans or forecast let alone on a public forum. And just a suggestion, to say “Sorry to be very Direct” ? To be very direct would be to send this To JJP directly not a thread post. In my Opinion, to date they have not abandoned their customers so I am fairly certain you have nothing to worry about with Pirates other then failing to get your hands on one while you can.
I understand your arguments. However, I do not consider the announcement, finally not to produce POTC any longer than March, not as a problematic business plan secret. Even Stern states when a certain pin will not be produced any longer.
But thanks for your feedback.
Quoted from spidey:I wasn't satisfied with the sound quality from the stock speakers and it's most likely because the midrange fires up into the cabinet. So today I connected Pioneer 4" 2-way speakers instead. Sounds much better! Took a while to do all the wiring. I added spring clip terminals to the back of the boxes.
They're just sitting on the head but seem to be secure so I won't bother attaching them. I also have an external sub (a must).
[quoted image][quoted image]
I am very interested to understand how you plugged the speakers in, especially the 2 way speakers. For the external sub I use alligator clips and an activ sub. Do you do this similarly or is there a direct plug in possibilty for the sub as well.
Would you share your solution. Thanks a lot!
Quoted from spidey:I desoldered the wires from the internal speakers and soldered the source wires to new speaker wires that I ran down into the cab, out the hole in the bottom, and back up to the top.
For the speaker boxes, I soldered a short wire to the speakers and ran those out the hole in the box, and soldered that end to the spring terminals.
If you leave the tweeter wires soldered then just unplug them.
I bought the 4" speaker boxes off ebay. They have a hole in the box for wires but not terminals, so I also bought the spring terminals off Ebay. $34 for those items plus the speakers, which I already had.
I would've bought boxes for the 5" midrange and just relocated them, but they don't sell boxes for that size.[quoted image]
Thank you for your feedback, highly appreciated!
So you replaced the backbox speakers by your external ones. Which frequence do they have? Woudl it be possible to add the external 2 way speakers additionally to the internal ones (like the alligator clip solution to the external sub; however, the sub is not critical due to the active sub character) or would that be problematic due to the 4''?
A interactive chest lightning mod would be great. Interactive in the meaning that it lights when the chest will lock a ball and flashes when the lock is not yet ready (or the other way round). The current mod is lightning without any relation to the lock status.
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:Full info for anyone interested:
I hooked up a Polk PSW10 powered subwoofer to my POTC as I have with all of my Stern games and my Houdini. These sound great and are relatively cheap - as little as $80 online occasionally. I think it helps with POTC's bass, but it's not as noticeable a difference to me as on my newer Stern games which I attribute to JJP's cabinet subwoofer probably being better than Stern's.
This is the cable that I have used to connect most of my subwoofers (but there are a lot of others that will work as well and you typically only need one RCA jack rather than two):
amazon.com link »
On the right underside of your POTC's CPU (located behind the backbox screen), you'll find the typical (pink, green, blue(?)) sockets for audio jacks to plug into. You want to use the headphone output socket that the cabinet front headphone socket's cable is already connected to. To do so you'll need a splitter (3.5 mm male to (2) 3.5 mm females) so you can connect your subwoofer to it as well.
I ran the cable out the bottom of the cabinet through one of the ventilation openings - you'll need to pry up the screen slightly. If you use a Polk PSW 10 just follow the simple instructions that come with it for its various settings.
I just connected the cable to the sub woofer with the headphone plug in at the cabinet front. The sub works, but only the sub. The middle and high speakers in the backbox are out. How can I plug the sub in without losing the backbox speaker?
Quoted from f3honda4me:POTC doesn't have an aux jack in the back. You're either going to have to use the alligator clip method, or buy something like the pinwoofer kit (highly recommended).
The KIT seems to do nothing else than using alligator clips, only a bit more comfortable. It connects to the speaker cable in the cabinet. So it seems that there is no way to use direct board connection for the sub only?
Quoted from harryhoudini:There are. The sound board uses a 2 pin molex D connector for each of the speakers (I think that is what it is called, I have a bunch here, I can find the part if you want). You could build a harness (or I guess I could build one for you if needed) to split the output of the sub (or replace it). I think you could also split the 3.5mm out from the motherboard with a widely available splitter if you had a powered amp. Probably a converter from 3.5mm to RCA to go to the sub. Someone correct me if I am wrong here, but based on my testing of crap on the sound board this seems proper. But, soldering on or splicing in to the wiring at the sub seems just as plausible and maybe easier.
Quoted from Crile1:The kit (if you specified JJP) should have come with quick disconnects that attach directly to the subwoofer. JJP subwoofer has two extra prongs that make this super easy. If you got the wrong connector, then ask the folks at pinnovators, they will help you out. I did this on mine and works perfect. Plus I bought their mixer and have 4 games all hooked on the same sub and can work all at the same time. Now, in all clarity, a sub on Pirates really doesn't really add that much compared to my other games, in my opinion. But I also own a Hobbit, and adding a sub on that game is a game changer.
Thank you for your help, highly appreciated. I was looking for a „clean“ connection, but now used the alligator clip method to my active external sub like on my other pins. Works fine, so no problems. Keep playing.
Quoted from Psw757:Doesn’t the chest already have interactive lighting? I swear mine flashes red inside when it’s ready for a ball to be locked. I’m assuming this is what your referring to.
Yes, that is what I meant. But my chest is not flashing at all, neither in the pre lock nor in the lock status.
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:You need to plug your sub directly into the headphones socket on the CPU in the backbox (as described in my post) - not the headphones socket on the front of the cabinet. You'll need a splitter to allow the sub to share the CPU's socket along with the cable jack from the headphones socket on the front of the cabinet.
What kind of splitter would that be, do you have a reference? This would mean to plug that in the 2 RCA inputs of the sub? Would the quality be better than using the high level inputs in the sub from the alligator clips?
Quoted from Psw757:Yep, there already and works great. If I’m playing in dim light it’s pretty noticeable but with lights on normal doesn’t quite jump out at you.
Pretty slick though that they incorporated this though!
I have not noticed it before you indicated that there is a red light flashing when ready to lock. It seems far to small. But if the flashing is akready installed, the modding industry should hook a better lightning to this LED easily. A green flashing would better suit to the general chest colour.
Quoted from Psw757:Check your bulb, small red light in front right side of chest.
I’ll try to photo it but looks like it’s in the front right corner when viewed from playing position.
It isn’t super bright but it is there and noticeable.
Good to talk to you, I would not have noticed the red LED. Thought a bit about the light. I will try to install a red plastic heart and put the LED in, which should intensify the beating effekt from the LED. For that I have to remove the screw next to the red LED. The screw is not directly accessable. Do I have to remove the whole chest?
Quoted from harryhoudini:It's not a red LED. It's a tiny LED board like many of the other mini RGB light boards JJP uses in modern games. It's wired (not a plug) at the board and is screwed to the inside of the chest. You could probably re-mount the board and glue a transparent heart to it with some custom modding.
Yes, but what is the easiest way to re-mount the board by removing the screw?
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:The splitter consists of a single 3.5mm (male) jack attached to two 3.5 mm (female) sockets. The splitter jack plugs into the CPU's headphone socket. The two splitter sockets receive (1) the 3.5 mm jack from the cabinet headphone socket cable and (2) a 3.5 mm jack on the end of a subwoofer cable w/ RCA connector(s) on other end.
Piece of cake.
Ordered the splitter and installed it today. Works perfect, fantastic sound from the external sub, especially with the heart beat and the cannon shots.
Thanks a lot for your patience and help. Very happy now!
There is a lot of discussion about posts, slingshots etc. I am missing more threads regarding rules, scoring, strategies etc. For example I wondered when Keefer mentioned in this thread some days ago that hitting the extra ball right sling increases tortuga level by one. That was very helpful, but totally new to me. I wonder whether there are further unknown details beside the general rules described in some rulesheets or game descriptions. As far as I know, a complete rulesheet is not existing.
One concrete question regarding scoring. I understand that the scull values in each movie influence the scoring in the corresponding chapters of this movie and the chapter scores determine the values in the wizard mode of this movie. But what about the scoring in the multiballs, meaning jackpots and super jackpots. Do they have fixed values or are they depending on scull values as well or other varables. How knows details and which source is the best for this kind of information?
I have an issue with the start of the black pearl multiball. The ball is on the BP deck on the ship, spinners and lock button is finalized, the cannon load light is blinking. When fighting with the ball to get into the cannon, the cannon light goes out and the MB light on the main playfield starts blinking, without any cannon load or shot.
Any idea,whats going wrong here?
Quoted from harryhoudini:Lighted chest mod with beating/flashing action. This was a rough and dirty test, I need to fix a few things but it is a general idea of what it can do. Lots of options in terms of how fast and what pattern the beating/flashing is. I think this will work well for the coin mod and a beating heart mod for the inside chest top. Going to work on those soon.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pn2fVthxP7HrSsFq7
Looks very nice, only yellow as colour does not fit in my opinion, green (as the MB, my preference) or red would be more appropriate.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Pretty simple.
0. Just unplug everything under the playfield that comes through the hole. It's all easily found right there. Make sure your opto cables are color coded already (most on mine did not have the color marks on the connectors)
1. There is a wood screw into the playfield that is hard to see. If you look down behind the coil that controls the ball release between the chest and the coil you'll see the screw. You need a long phillips bit, magnetic.
2. The right mounting plate is under the chapter select plastic. Just remove the center nut holding the chest bracket to the plate.
Pretty straightforward as long as you can get to that #1 screw.
Thanks a lot for your detailed ! I will try during the weekend.
I thank all the participants of this thread for all their input, information and taking care of the issues and questions from others. Especially harryhoudini has to be mentioned here, who obviously spends a lot of time helping others, developing mods and describing issues or possible problems. So many thanks to Harry especially. All of you make this thread a perfect contribution to our hobby. I am always delighted seeing X new posts when opening my ipad each morning. Like a substitution of my daily newspaper. Please go ahead in the same manner!
Quoted from PinMonk:Yeah, hoping for more direction in the game's wizard modes. I know in dead man's chest you want to do 20 inner loops to ward off the Kraken. One of the other ones you're visiting various islands, but I couldn't figure out what I was supposed to do and keep the game going. Couple others were too fast to make an impression. Some narration as you play would be really helpful.
Also, an option to turn on the lower screen for a gold display when it's not being used for something else (show a coin and a number on it) to show how many are on the big screen would be great.
I am hoping for more details as well. What I understand so far is during the dead man‘ chest MB you need to do a lot of inner lops while you have to defend the tentacles by shooting the green shots indicated. For the red MB you have shoot left and right to move the ship, but I am not sure which intervall is needed. The yellow one is for collecting gold, almost all targets are lit. Again not sure whether you have to cover certain regions or islands with the ship shown in the screen.
Question regarding the pirate lane awards. During gameplay I select a certain award and when the lanes are complete and I hit the target beside the left chest target, another award is granted.
Is there a certain moment I have to chose the award? After lane completion?
Quoted from PinMonk:It should be whatever award is lit when you complete the last lane letter is what will be on the target that awards it. Although, with the same button being used for gold collection, I often find I've changed awards without realizing it. There needs to be a rethink of this, IMO.
Quoted from gumnut01:There is a period of grace after gold collection that does not change selection. Also the RGB inlane colour lets you know pretty quick if you change it as well as the call out. Yes I have drained while trying to change it back, but that’s part of the fun.
As you said once pirate lanes are collected, selection is locked in at pirate collect standup. I will add collect it before you do the next pirate lanes or it gets sent to Davey Jones.... Arrrrrrrr!
Thanks a lot for your quick feedback
It was mentioned shortly here that sometimes a book appears on the backbox, where the status of the extra ball items are shown. I have nit found any description of the items to collect and how to view the current status without popping away. Could somebody please describe what to collect and how to see the status im between.
Quoted from arzoo:You may be referring to the Star Map "mystery" shots. If you shoot the Star Map when no chapters are qualified, a single shot will flash white for a second and the star field (LE and CE only) will draw a symbol representing the same shot. For example, the star field will draw the letter P if the P lane is the necessary shot. Anyway, each time you make one of these shots the star constellation book will be displayed to indicate the bonus has been collected. Collect enough and Extra Ball is lit.
Thanks for your feedback. Does this mean that I only have to shoot into the Star Map (when not activated) several times to collect enough items for the book or is it necessary to shoot the indicated symbol afterwards?
Quoted from GnarLee:Yes that was my Norrington game with 3 wizard modes. all 3 wiz modes were only about 500k of the points though. oddly enough it was also my first game ever that I got to more than 1 of the wizard modes.
Yes there are. I really need to work on going for super jackpots in multiball as thats really where the points for your wizard mode come from. Score level seems to just be the amount of characters you collect for that movie and the super jackpots are the multiplier. so if you make it through the 5 chapters and collect 10 characters do the multiball and get 1 super jackpot you go into the wizard mode with a score level of 20 instead of 10.
Also after several months of ownership on my crazy game last night I realized there is still stuff I dont quite understand. Like what is the purpose of the pirate inlane big points and hurry up? Is there a way to make them valueable or are they just there for when you hit the button 1 too many times collecting gold. how in the hell do you get a fountain of youth super jackpot? I cant even get one with 5 multiballs rolling on barbossa. Very rarley see gold x and spot x targets do anything on the BP. Ive had games where I hit the gold targets a shit ton but I dont feel like I get more gold when I cash out. Spot x I have noticed it lighting 2x through 6x but have no idea what multiplier it is trying to give me. Would love a good explanation on some of these things.
Dam and now I gots the itch gonna go bust out a game or 3
I totally agree with you and feel the same. The rules are so complex, that I pick up information pieces from threads here and there. I would highly appreciate if JJP would offer a.complete rulesheet with all details. The current one is way to rough.
Quoted from GnarLee:24m shot also at its core is not hard to understand but can be tricky to pull off. First part to understand is the souls. Score level for all wiz modes starts at 20 (I think). Score level affect how many points your shots are worth during wizard mode. When you collect a character for a particular movie you score level will increase by 1. Super jackpots appear to be a multiplier. So if you have a score level of 22 and hit a super jackpot you score level goes to 44. Not too sure how the formula works but characters definitely give 1 score level and super jackpots multiply that number. First goal is to get a decent amount of characters and some super jackpots for that mode. Once your score level is in the 150-200 range you can try to get super x ready and leave you in lane shots 1 away from shot x. Start wizard mode hit super x, complete In lane and hit shot x. Now we have 2 multipliers going on a fat wizard mode (hitting a normal shot is 50-100k at least). Hit a proper shot next and Bam millions of points. Pretty hard to put it all together for the standard pin player but not impossible. I have gotten my score level up to 200 (1 time only) had super x ready and managed to drain after 1 shot trying to hit the super x. That 1 shot scored me 175k without any multipliers. Hope this helps and made sense
Thanks for the description, very helpful!
2 questions: first one, where can you see the score level in the wizard mod? Second one, wouldn‘t it be better to start the wizard mod, having super x ready, then make the missing lane shot for shot x, activate with shooting the pirates stand up, shooting the shot x target and shot x for shooting super x?
It is a shame that JJP does not publish a complete rulesheet for such a complex game so that the community is forced to puzzle the details together. No need for a shiny booklet, a simple word file would be sufficient. More content, less marketing brochures.
Stern and the other manufacturers don‘t prepare this either, should be a normal procedure.
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:The news was Wonka and pins moving forward would have Bluetooth capability. Pirates was mentioned as "There will be 1 last code update and it's coming".
I read in the Official Expo thread that it was said "no more Pirates will be made, unless very large pre-paid preorders were made by distributors, and they didn't think that was going to happen. Pirates was a slow burn seller, where interest in it grew only at the end of the run, and after it was sold out".
Thank you . At least we get another update. Should be sufficient.
Quoted from VALIS666:Thanks to the tips in this thread and just getting more familiar with the game (I have owned it for less than a week, after all) I'm hitting that left flipper to chest shot with regularity now, think I got it six times in my last game alone. Really the only shot left I have to get comfortable with is Extra Ball, that's a rough one still. Also, what awards the extra ball when you shoot it there? Sensor? The slingshot in the back? When lit the ball can roll over it all the time, but unless it comes from the left flipper, and hits/rolls over... something, it doesn't trigger. Can't quite figure it, and the manual doesn't mention it.
The extra ball is rewarded when you hit the slingshot at the very right side. But only without touching the bumpers over there. You can see that you get no EB when the ball comes out of the bumpers.
I ordered the PinWoofer backbox sound kit and installed it yesterday in my POTC. I have an external sub and wanted the mid range speaker and the tweeter in the backbox to improve and get to the sound level of the sub. My expectations were high and have been more than fulfilled. The sound from the backbox now is brilliant, chrystal clear and very transparent. It is so dynamic that you have to level the volume of the kit down a bit, when you increase the general volume of the pin.
Special thanks to Dan from PinWoofer, who contributed a perfect service for all questions I had. Respond times were incredibly fast. So highly recommended.
Quoted from Heater:So I've always hated having the plain tab on the Maelstrom after installing PMC's hidden switch but didn't want to cut it off in case I wanted to go back to stock. Found one of my ships from my board game fits perfectly, and the tab on the bottom of the ship that is used to fit in the board game base fits perfect on the ramp. Just wanted to share![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I had the same idea, did not want to cut the plastic (too risky), but needed something to cover the ugly plastic piece. Originally also wanted a plain ship, but found a nice ship in a bottle. Then noticed that the black pearl was in a bottle in one movie as well, so that it fits to the theme.
034B0BD6-4A3B-40B8-8A68-6D475A859FD1 (resized).jpeg1FD43333-D654-432F-AD2A-1784E352FE3B (resized).jpegQuoted from PtownPin:They look great....I'm shocked there was enough room to install them. Mine could barely fit game blades. Hope they don't get all scratched up raising and lowering the play field.
There was no room in my POTC for installing mirror blades in a „normal“ way. However, I really wanted the mirror effect so I installled them not at the full side with the playfield sliding along, but as a top installation on the playfield side. Ok, I have to move them out before raising the playfield, but this is an easy job. You need to cut them at the down side, which needs to be done by your blade supplier. They are fixed at the hinge posts and at the front.
So that is a solution for anybody who wants mirror blades while having narrow space.
3972995E-AE77-4A6F-BB41-463E01C2DC29 (resized).jpeg469B3A96-B426-4162-BA85-78056D5D8A28 (resized).jpeg98407DFF-5970-457D-8285-8D2EE942AD28 (resized).jpegQuoted from EaglePin:I’m convinced at least part of the problem with inconsistent VUK kick outs is a very slight amount of play for the plunger in the coil sleeve causing the plunger to not always line up exactly the same way to strike the ball on the next kick out. It seems to only take the slightest fraction of an inch difference in how the plunger sits on the coil rest to change it. I really think if the coil rests were shaped in a bit of a scoop it would force the end of the plunger to sit in the same spot every time and lead to consistent results.
For almost a year from day 1 of owning STTNG & POTC, the left cannon VUK on STTNG was horribly inconsistent (often sending the ball flying off the wire into the outline) and on POTC both my Tortuga and Depths were completely inconsistent. Tortuga would come out soft one kick, then like a rocket the next, and then maybe somewhere in between on the one after that. There wasn’t any rhyme or reason to it. I finally noticed that the ball was hitting the Tortuga deflector in a slightly different way each time, and figured that might be from the plunger not hitting it the same way every time. In thinking of this as a possible cause I doubted it at first because I figured the plunger must get itself corrected to hit the ball straight every time when it’s pulled through by the magnet. But I tested it by nudging the plunger resting position just very slightly to the side a bit, lowering the playfield, and testing the next kick out. In testing when I nudged the rest spot of the plunger slightly the ball came out inconsistently. When I made sure the end of the plunger was centered on the coil rest it was super consistent. I also noticed that after every test the end of the plunger was coming to a landing slightly off center one direction or another a lot of the time, meaning from one kick out to the next it was possible to have different results. The inconsistency is from the ball getting hit at a slightly different angle and ejecting just a bit differently, so it’s not hitting the scoop or deflector the same on the way out every time.
So I decided to try giving the end of the plunger a different surface to land on. I taped a square cut of some foam window stripping/insulation to the coil rest to give the end of the plunger a better landing pad, hoping it might come to rest more consistently. It INSTANTLY worked. After never kicking the ball out the same way twice in a row my Tortuga suddenly hit the left flipper solidly EVERY time. I did the same thing on the STTNG cannon and it also was instantly fixed. That was 3 or 4 months ago now and both VUKs continue to kick out the same shot every time.
For the Depths, it’s unfortunately a bit different because the plunger lies horizontal instead of vertical, and because of this the plunger seems to have way more play in it. I figured because it’s horizontal it’ll be tough to use the same solution with weather stripping to get the end to rest consistently in the same spot. I played with the coil power up & down, played with the coil rest, and wiggled the plunger a bit, and somehow got it to be more consistent. It’s way better than it was, but still not rock solid consistency like the others. I forget if I ever did the weather stripping or anything else. I’ll check tonight. I don’t remember the power setting I ended up at but I think I lowered it a fair amount.
I really think if there were a way to shape the coil rests into a bit of a scoop shape so the plunger was forced to sit in the same spot every time it would make a big difference in VUK consistencies. Sorry this is so crazy long without a specific solution to the Depths, but thought I’d share in case anyone has issues with other inconsistent VUKs and in case anyone can figure out a way to create something that would have the horizontal Depths plunger land & sit consistently on that coil rest.
That is interesting, but I am not sure that I understand your solution correctly. Do you fix the foam directly at teh end of teh Plunger so that the foam hits the ball? Does this hold up for long? Would you have a picture.
My Tortuga VUK seems to get weaker the longer I play and then sometimes kicks the ball SDTM.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Anyone interested in a better topper? I've been working on some ideas and they are also lightly integrated with gameplay. It wouldn't be cheap but it would be easy to install and provide some fun interaction.
You make me curious. When you say it is fun, I assume that it will please me. So I am very interested.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Anyone interested in a better topper? I've been working on some ideas and they are also lightly integrated with gameplay. It wouldn't be cheap but it would be easy to install and provide some fun interaction.
Scott, anything you can offer the curious people here. Any pictures?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I absolutely don’t believe anybody’s made it to Break the Curse on anything other than 5 ball, get unlimited extra balls every 15 points and LOTS of time. Those mini-wizard modes are HARD.
I’m super impressed with all the little touches in the updates though, beyond the character changes. Can’t wait to check it OUT!!!
To be honest I had problems to identify the little touches beyond the character changes from the Buffalo streaming. What have you noticed?
I am still struggling with the details of this complex rules. Can anybody tell me where I have to shoot to get the bonus from the treasure hord, once you achieve collecting all the treasures? Second what I red here is that a certain number of map awards reward an extra ball, is that a general rule and which number of shots is required?
Quoted from LesManley:Every time you shoot one of the movie shots it increases the skull value. Random awards can also add points to skull value. And every time you shoot that shot you get the current skull value for that shot. It doesn't have to be in any mode or multi-ball. They all max out at 10,000 points. The best way to take advantage of a high skull value is to set yourself up for an easily repeatable high value shot like the chest loop combo. Try to have a high multiplier running and bring in some multi balls to keep it going. You can hold the skull value by shooting the depths. every time you shoot it it will hold one skull value. You can get rewards that give you multiple skull value holds randomly.
Interesting, thank you. I thought the values are relevant for collecting the characters when a chapter of the relevant movie is running only. But this is correct as well, isn‘t it?
Could somebody explain the function of the small skull, one of the five chapters shown in each movie. It has already been explaines somewhere here, but I cannot remember. Might be new for others as well.
From a playing strategy perspective: I think you have to evaluate the advantage of pushing the skull value higher against the disadvantage of playing less chapters, which might lead to a lower chance of reaching a Wizard mod. How do you play in this regard?
Just checked the skull value hold when shooting the devil‘s triangle. Noticed that a value hold is not always rewarded even if the ball makes a full turn. Is that normal? I have no problems starting the multiball, which requires the same shot. And no error in the switch test matrix.
Thank you for your explanations. Understood so far. Shooting the depth for skull value holds was new to me, I thought the devils triangle was relevant.
However, what is the sense of the small skulls, see picture below. That is the start of the second ball. All skull values back to minimum 1.000 points, clear so far. The green movie was hit four times during ball 1. The first shot made the green skull appear. Another 3 shots to the green movie (chest) made the skull move to the right. So I can see From the position of the skull, how many times the green movie was already hit. But why do I get this information, I don‘t understand how to use it for the game?
304793B4-7FA7-4D05-8183-C84B75F250B4 (resized).jpegQuoted from EaglePin:There are about 25 chapters for each movie, so about 125 chapters total in the game. For each game, 5 chapters for each movie are loaded as the ones you will have to play to reach that movie's wizard mode.
So to summarize it: 5 chapters are loaded for each movie at the start of every game. Skull shows which of those 5 chapters would be played if you start a chapter now. Skull moves if you hit the chapter shot, meaning that will now be the chapter played if a chapter for that movie is started. So if you've played 4 chapters for a movie, the skull will be in the 5th spot and won't move because it will always be the next chapter played.
Thank you for the explanation. That means that I can select the chapter that will be started next by shooting that chapter shot. That would make sense if I would know the 5 chapters that have been chosen for that movie (and would know how interesting the concrete chapter is). Can I see somewhere which 5 chapters are chosen?
....so anyway, the information from the skull position In the respective chapter would be restricted, even if the 5 chosen chapters are known. I could select a green chapter by shooting the chest X times until the green skull is one the position for the chapter I want to select (which may be a chapter with many characters to hit before MB start). But the game makes a random select between the qualified colors or I open the green chapter only, but then I get a small multiplier only, which is a disadvantage against the advantage of choosing a special chapter in the green color.
For me the skull information therefore seems to be of minor practical importance.
Yes agreed, I liked playing Tia Dalma and Elizabeth Swann as well due to getting to a wizard mode. Now I am playing Norrington a lot, because the chapters are won very fast and I had 2 or 3 wizard modes with this character regurlarly.
From strategy perspective I am thinking (after the latest discussion here, which is very interesting) of increasing the skull values first and bringing them into stacked MB, which might be very valuable. Problem is certainly drains in this first stage and the fact that during several stacked MB there is a lot to do and starting chapters need active attention. Otherwise you simply forget to start them.
You can minimize the drain risk a bit. Don‘t wait until the post drops and releases the ball. Just push the two flipper buttons at the end of the animation when the characters are shown at the screen. Themagnet will grab the ball again and move It in the star map area, so that it does not come down strait from the post.
Quoted from Crile1:Gonna try this tonight when I get home. If it is a fix, then many thanks to you sir!
Your welcome, no problem. I red it here on pinside as well. You need not wait until the ball does not move any longer and stays on the post. Sometimes it still bounces a bit and you can choose a good moment to push your flipper buttons.
Quoted from EaglePin:Are you in On Stranger Tides multiball when it's flashing blue? I know one of the times that arrow flashes blue is during that multiball because the chest/inner loop combo is one of the three jackpot shots for that multiball.
I would be interested in the blue arrow indication as well. Yes, it flashes during MB to indicate double and triple jackpots. But it is flashing blue in one ball play as well, sometimes The inner loop and sometimes the chest shot. I have no idea what the pin wants me to tell.
Quoted from EaglePin:Playing last night a thought crossed my mind. I never feel like "Add Time" is the best pirate lane choice out of the available options. I know how it could be beneficial, but it never seems to draw my interest over the other options available. Super X is available about every other selection, and in between you can select Arrrrr Frenzy, Liars Dice, Extra Ball, Add a Ball, Light Bonus X, or Hold Bonus X. Am I missing something or is one of the other options just usually better to select instead of Add Time?
Generally I have the same view as you have: top priority is extra ball, then on the same level: light/hold bonus X and super X (depending on the specific situation in the game like MB available or not), then Arrr Frenzy.
However, if you have a big completion bonus in front of you from a running mod (often a red mod), possibly multiplied by a super X running at that time, it might be worth selecting add time.
Quoted from LesManley:Not for me. I love it, but I have an early model right before he switched shaft lengths I believe and I have never been able to get it to work correctly. I kind of gave up on it and haven't tried getting it to work right for some time now as I wanted to just play the game, so my chest is just always closed. I will get back to it and try again someday as I love the mod and it definitely replaces a function that should have been there from the beginning, but dialing it in after the install has been incredibly frustrating for me.
I had problems with the shaft as well and used a simple cord instead. Very easy and works perfectly since then.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider zora.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club?tu=zora and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Meerbusch
Vernon, BC
Detroit, MI
Dubai