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(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!


By goren1818

3 years ago



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  • 541 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by LOTR_breath
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Topic index (key posts)

20 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #222 Liar's Dice rules explained! Posted by goren1818 (2 years ago)

Post #644 Rules flow chart Posted by Rbviessman (2 years ago)

Post #1021 How to fix black pearl lamps Posted by Yelobird (2 years ago)

Post #1360 Black Pearl flippers are uneven when in upper position - Fix Posted by evh347 (1 year ago)

Post #2468 Hardware fix for balls getting hung up during multiball. Posted by Pinballpal (1 year ago)

Post #2892 Adjustment for auto plunger not hitting balls cleanly or correctly Posted by Pinballpal (1 year ago)

Post #3974 Deadflip stream from Valentine’s Day 2019. Posted by Tuna_Delight (1 year ago)

Post #4014 POTC trouble shooting guide Posted by zaphX (1 year ago)

Post #4856 Possibly let distributor go through machine and get it tuned in. Posted by dgposter (1 year ago)

Post #6315 Fix for dauntless positioning, canon shots not landing Posted by Yelobird (1 year ago)


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#2243 1 year ago
Quoted from musketd:

That’s my biggest issue they are the most costly games on the market and their quality control on pirates is very bad and people should be getting games that they don’t have to tinker with and fix all these things out of the box like a stern pinball or cgc; and I love the pirates pinball too just not sure who is testing these at the factory

Considering getting one, but wondering how long, on average, folks are taking to get the machine properly working.

#2276 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

So my full issues list so far, solved and unsolved: (took delivery 12/20, today is 12/23):
[X] Wireform for shooter lane bent. Removed, reformed, replaced.
[X] Torn shooter tip. Replacement en route but got one at a local shop in the interim.
[X] Gold/action button sticking. Fixed with a small amount of WD40 to the plunger underneath.
[ ] Missing tilt bob. Replacement en route.
[X] MA[P] target sticking behind [A]. Fixed by loosening under the playfield and moving over slightly.
[X] GO[L]D target sticking behind wiring harness. Fixed by loosening switch and pressing the harness up and out of the way, then tightening back down.
[ ] Maelstrom exit ramp switch defective. Reported to distributor and JJP, replacement en route.
[ ] Black Pearl cannon is inconsistently detecting the loaded ball. Switch test reporting stuck closed. Unsure if this is a clearance issue or another bad switch.
So...I’m on my 4th day

That's rough! Have you been playing at all? Enjoying?

Tempted to go against my rule of first playing before buying as I've been burned before.

#2278 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Oh absolutely we’ve been playing! Hours and hours.
I initially had a preorder on this game, then decided to wait and play first.
As soon as I played it I knew I made a mistake and had to own it.
It really is that good.
My problems really haven’t been *that* severe, and the support I’ve gotten for each from distributor and JJP has been excellent.
I fixed my Maelstrom issue which was a game-breaker, and the only remaining issue I’m stuck on is the pearl cannon optos. I wanted to tackle that tonight, but my wife asked I wait for tomorrow so she could play
I have no regrets whatsoever about buying this pin.

Glad you're enjoying! Seems like just about everybody is loving it.

1 week later
#2653 1 year ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Where can I get Mylar for slingshot and lanes for this pin? I have some chipping already so I’d like to protect that area.

Can you share some photos of the problem areas? Thank you.

#2656 1 year ago

I can't speak for the post you're referring to but here are some pictures of some chipping

Wow. I'm sorry to see that. Are the posts on the playfield too tight or is the ball actually able to reach those areas?

#2673 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Warning when adjusting your Black Pearl ramp crush washer!
I set up a second machine last night. It had far fewer issues and was almost perfect, save for the Pearl ramp catching the ball.
Knowing how to fix that, I started to crank down the crush washer...and cranked, and cranked. And the screw snapped, leaving the shaft inside the post.
I am now a sad pirate with a completely unplayable machine.
Upon further examination, I see the problem - I could have cranked forever or even removed the crush washer entirely and the ramp still wouldn’t have the proper right tilt. There needs to be something under the bottom left of the pearl ramp to give the left side a little bit of lift. I am planning to use one of those clear plastic “cabinet bumps” for this purpose.
But my roadblock now is that the post has a broken screw shaft in it, and I don’t know how to remove the post. I tried to unscrew it and it just spins in place.
I also tried a broken screw extractor, it did not work. I will need to replace the post.
LTG any suggestions on how to remove the post safely, and maybe where to find one so I don’t have to wait on parts?
[quoted image]

That sucks! Can you drill it out?

#2677 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I tried drilling it out with a broken screw extraction tool and was unsuccessful.

Is there a screw on the underside of the playfield on which the post attaches that was stripped? May have to start with removing that?

#2742 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I’m getting a weird issue with the camera - there’s this rogue reflection spot in the camera and I haven’t been able to nail down the source.
If I remove the translite, the camera is fine, so it’s almost like there’s a weird imperfection in the bezel glass. You can see the spot come back into position as the glass settles.
I’ve cleaned it and my old eyes see nothing.
It’s kind of annoying because it mars the high score photos.
Anyone have an idea?[quoted image]

I'm having the same issue to the point I thought my face was bleeding. I figured I just needed to clean the lense, but now I'm thinking that won't matter.

#2743 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

So this one is kind of pedantic and maybe a stupid question...maybe hogbog can answer.
Which of these two flippers is correct? Is the left too high, or is the right too low?
This stuff matters, as it affects your shots which I’m practicing and trying to perfect my aim.[quoted image]

Both flippers are even with the lane guides when lowered?

#2747 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Well I just took the bezel off and looked at it really closely - still clean - put it back and now the problem is gone. I guess it was catching a weird reflection in one specific position. I noticed the left/right position of the bezel favors the right, where before it favored the left. Maybe try messing with it?

I'll try. Thank you.

#2748 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Well initially I thought the answer was yes, but I just took a good look and sure enough the left flipper rides a touch high. My mission is now clear, I guess![quoted image]

Yeah, looks like the left was already starting higher. I'd make sure it's properly gapped as well. My right flipper wasn't properly gapped out of the box.

#2785 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

for people who don't own this game and are reading this thread every day seeing new issue after another - maybe I'm just the lucky one but I haven't had any real issues. Literally none. The game plays amazing too. I just wanted to mention this b/c if I was a new buyer and read this thread I might be concerned about getting one.

Quoted from KingPinGames:

i would also say that at least 90% of these are "pinball issues," and not "PotC issues."
switch adjustments, coil adjustments, etc are all issues that are common across ALL pinballs. the broken wires, offset toppers, etc have all been remedied at the factory and new buyers should not run into those (neither should the other buyers, but it happened and JJP corrected it in later builds).

I agree that many of the issues are just pinball. There are always tweaks to make to any new machine to get it playing right.

Still hoping for an update kit solution to get the Pearl ramp to lean a bit more to the right. Post under the left side of the ramp pushing it up just a little? Like a column for a bridge. I placed 2 cabinet bumper pads under mine. It helped a little, but still not there.

The game is great, though! I'm really enjoying it!

#2787 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I want to second this. Obviously everyone wants a perfect game OOTB but when things happen, getting good support makes all the difference.
I’ve had absolutely stellar support from both JJP and my distributor Abel Electronics. This support really turned around what could have been a crappy experience.
I’d also like to add, I’m posting about my issues in the hopes that sharing my experiences (and fixes) will help others if they run into the same problems.
We’ve already seen a few recurring issues with easy fixes (for example the chest fork screws and the Pearl ramp adjustment.)
Perhaps I’m being too noisy but I assure you I am super happy with my purchases and I’m very enthusiastic about POTC and JJP.

Not too noisy at all! Your posting made it a lot easier for me to get it going. It's only getting easier for everyone else with manufacturing improving and all of the potential issues identified.

JJP is really making pinball better!

#2840 1 year ago

My switch 21 (sling under Pearl ramp - lowest switch) keeps getting bent back under the ramp, so the test report shows it's closed. Happens soon after I fix it. I think the ball hits the sling hard enough to bend it back. Happening to anyone else? What's the solution? Seems like if I can get a longer leaf switch, it will prevent it from bending backwards under the ramp, which closes the switch.

The more I learn the rules, the more fun it is. I'm going to start dressing as a pirate in my daily life!

#2841 1 year ago

I assume no problem sharing an external sub with JJP POTC and a Stern?

#2844 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Wheels - is the front blade of the leaf switch catching on the ramp above? If so, snip a little bit off of the top of the front blade so it can’t touch and it won’t get stuck back anymore.

It's the back blade, the taller one.

#2846 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Oh okay - well you can nip the top of that one off so it can’t catch on the ramp and that should solve it. It’s been done on other Pirates games for the same reason. It’s tight under there as you can see.

I may try that unless there any other solutions? Just use some needle noses to clip it? Thank you for the advice.

#2895 1 year ago

What is the error log? Should I be paying any attention to it? I'm unable to even understand what it's saying.

#2898 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Error log is really only useful to the programmers. It helps them when diagnosing bugs in the code.

Cool. Thanks.

#2968 1 year ago

I have chapters sometimes starting at random times. Assuming playfield vibration triggering one of the 5 switches. Need to gap them properly. Looks like it's best to access from below? Don't recall what it looks like below in that area. Anyone else had to access these switches? Best to attack from under the playfield?

#2970 1 year ago
Quoted from JordanB:

Mine arrived with a stuck switch there. Yes, best to access from below from what I recall. Otherwise you need to take off the ship and a bunch of plastics (something I'm not looking forward to for cleaning/mylaring the starfield area)

Thank you!

#2995 1 year ago

Had my best game yet. At one point, I think the monitor said "66666" or something close to that. I think I had all of the multiballs going at the same time. Anyone know what that was? Whatever was happening, it was fun! The lights, sounds, and call-outs were going crazy. What a great game!

#2996 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I had a pretty good maintenance day.
I installed the “subway fix” post.
I adjusted a leaf on the right slingshot that was machine-gunning.
And I adjusted the loose scoop on Tortuga, fixing the SDTMs.
Now I’m having a new problem; twice so far tonight the ball has gotten stuck under the Dauntless after making the bullsye shot.
Any suggestions for this one?[quoted image]

That's a new one I haven't seen. Good luck with the fix and thanks for keeping us up to date with your fixes.

#2997 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

To me it looks like the ball guide rails are slightly bent inward on the right side which is affecting the trajectory. Removing this rail and reshaping it is something I had to do to mine.
I would advise contacting JJP support for walking you through this - I did it to mine but it requires great care and very gentle force applied in a specific way.

Yes, looks obvious the right guide is pointed to the left causing the ball to hit that post.

#2999 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I just can’t stop playing! And my pinball buddies keep finding their way over to play it too. Did you add your score to Pinside and/or Pindigo app?

No. Feel like I shouldn't because I play 5 ball games. Yes, I know I shouldn't, but I remember 5-ball games from my childhood.

By the way, checked out a few minutes of a recording from your live stream. Very cool!

#3094 1 year ago

Alligator clips directly to the cabinet sub is working great for me.

#3107 1 year ago
Quoted from heni1977:

But what type of subs are you guys using. I saw one on crutchfield for 140 with amp. Also it has a left and right input, how would this be hooked up?
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107PSW10B/Polk-Audio-PSW10-Black.html

I believe this is what I'm using. Purchased it years ago.

#3193 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Gameplay questions!
1. What does “spot gold” on the Pearl do, exactly?
2. What do the MAP targets do in relation to the spinner and activating the map hole award? I haven’t figured this out.
3. Is there benefit/effect from hitting all 4 GOLD targets?

Not sure about 1 and 3, but with 2, I believe, when you hit any of the 3 letters, the disc begins spinning. Once you light all 3 letters, the map hole award is available. Of course, the map hole award is always available on a skill shot.

#3233 1 year ago
Quoted from evh347:

Special thanks to my friend @TimBoch and his daughter for their help today installing the MAP hole Cliffy on my JJPOTC today.
There isn't yet a video showing how to take the Black Pearl ship off the game, so I took pics along the way. I'm sure the pics won't appear in the exact intended order, but it should give the general idea well enough.
Hopefully this helps anyone who may need to take the Black Pearl completely off. My suggestion, is to get at least two pairs of hands. I carefully snipped just one zip tie off holding the cluster of wires underneath the playfield. Ensure you don't accidentally cut thru anything important.!
In short, there are SEVEN connectors under the playfield that first need to be disconnected and they need to be carefully passed thru the plastic underneath where the Black Pearl was mounted. I've circled their locations in the pictures. I eventually took a black sharpie and wrote on #'s on them to help me remember what goes where, but they are keyed fairly obviously so not much chance to screw that up. The three little Molex connecters are color coded on the board they connect to. I temporarily disconnected the small black Molex just to give me better access to the other plugs. In putting everything back, my left ship spinner initially wasn't registering in test, but that was resolved just by going back and re-seating those plugs.
To remove the ship, you need an Allen key to extract the Allen pin behind the ship, pull the cotter pin on the arm (behind the playfield), collect the white spacer, and then ensure the upper playfield pin that was secured with the cotter pin is manually retracted thru the back of the playfield. Once that's done, pull backwards on the ship towards the back of the playfield, and carefully lift it up and out. It's possible to carefully guide it out from under the VUK guide w/o removing the VUK guide, just take your time. When handling the upper playfield, its a good idea to be mindful about where exactly you're handling it due to the sensitive components underneath, so make sure you're not putting pressure on something fragile. What I do is keep my hands on the wood sides until I can be assured I'm not handling it from something that could break. Do NOT get lazy at this point and be mindful about what/where you go setting this thing because its heavy enough to break whatever you rest it on. You really need two people to do this. I had help guiding the cables up and thru from underneath as I extracted everything together to set aside.
After you get the ship off, there are 5 nylon nuts that need to be removed in order to lift up on the plastic on top of the MAP targets. Then you just remove the two posts and the one screw holding the MAP hole ball guide. We didn't need to completely take the plastic off as there was enough flexibility to get the Cliffy placed.
Clean the MAP hole area with the supplied alcohol wipe, place the Cliffy, and re-install everything. Note: In removing two of the posts under the plastic, one of the chapter select sling rubbers was released. No big deal, just re-install the sling rubber after you install the Cliffy and then get the posts back where they belong.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#3234 1 year ago
Quoted from evh347:

Special thanks to my friend @TimBoch and his daughter for their help today installing the MAP hole Cliffy on my JJPOTC today.
There isn't yet a video showing how to take the Black Pearl ship off the game, so I took pics along the way. I'm sure the pics won't appear in the exact intended order, but it should give the general idea well enough.
Hopefully this helps anyone who may need to take the Black Pearl completely off. My suggestion, is to get at least two pairs of hands. I carefully snipped just one zip tie off holding the cluster of wires underneath the playfield. Ensure you don't accidentally cut thru anything important.!
In short, there are SEVEN connectors under the playfield that first need to be disconnected and they need to be carefully passed thru the plastic underneath where the Black Pearl was mounted. I've circled their locations in the pictures. I eventually took a black sharpie and wrote on #'s on them to help me remember what goes where, but they are keyed fairly obviously so not much chance to screw that up. The three little Molex connecters are color coded on the board they connect to. I temporarily disconnected the small black Molex just to give me better access to the other plugs. In putting everything back, my left ship spinner initially wasn't registering in test, but that was resolved just by going back and re-seating those plugs.
To remove the ship, you need an Allen key to extract the Allen pin behind the ship, pull the cotter pin on the arm (behind the playfield), collect the white spacer, and then ensure the upper playfield pin that was secured with the cotter pin is manually retracted thru the back of the playfield. Once that's done, pull backwards on the ship towards the back of the playfield, and carefully lift it up and out. It's possible to carefully guide it out from under the VUK guide w/o removing the VUK guide, just take your time. When handling the upper playfield, its a good idea to be mindful about where exactly you're handling it due to the sensitive components underneath, so make sure you're not putting pressure on something fragile. What I do is keep my hands on the wood sides until I can be assured I'm not handling it from something that could break. Do NOT get lazy at this point and be mindful about what/where you go setting this thing because its heavy enough to break whatever you rest it on. You really need two people to do this. I had help guiding the cables up and thru from underneath as I extracted everything together to set aside.
After you get the ship off, there are 5 nylon nuts that need to be removed in order to lift up on the plastic on top of the MAP targets. Then you just remove the two posts and the one screw holding the MAP hole ball guide. We didn't need to completely take the plastic off as there was enough flexibility to get the Cliffy placed.
Clean the MAP hole area with the supplied alcohol wipe, place the Cliffy, and re-install everything. Note: In removing two of the posts under the plastic, one of the chapter select sling rubbers was released. No big deal, just re-install the sling rubber after you install the Cliffy and then get the posts back where they belong.

Thank you for the detailed instructions. How long did it take? Do you think you can get away with just 1 person doing the install? If not, do you only need a second pair of hands when lifting the Pearl wires out? Trying to be sensitive to my wife's time since she's already so great with the time I spend on pinball?

Where does the second Map protector (the little one) go?

#3253 1 year ago
Quoted from evh347:

For starting with only a general idea/plan on how to take the it all apart, I’d say it can take around 30 minutes to an hour if you take your time. My friend had to take off and return with a deep socket set that I didn’t yet have. Some of the nylon washers are deep enough onto posts that you really need this tool to carry forward. You will also likely need a needle nose pliers to keep the post from rotating underneath while you work the nylon nut off.
I’ve had the upper playfield off before, asking my wife to just hold onto the upper playfield while I did some maintence. It starts to get uncomfortable after awhile to just sit there and hold onto it. The only thing I would make sure to take my time on (with help of friend) is feeding those seven cables up from the bottom because they’re fed thru a hole on a plastic and you don’t want to just pull hazard-like. And if you don’t disconnect the upper playfield entirely, there isn’t a lot of cable-slack to maneuver around with and there is really no good place to safely set it without chancing breaking something under its weight.
I’m not certain, but it appears that the MAP2 protector (if you get it) co-joins with the MAP protector underneath where the MAP hole guide’s securing screw and post meet. I checked the inside back of my MAP hole and I didn’t see anything (yet) that would’ve warranted installing the MAP2 Cliffy, but it’s up to you.
UPDATED 01/31:
Can you get away with doing it all by yourself? Today, I had to make an adjustment to the MAP cliffy as its not sitting completely flat. I got the ship completely out and replaced all by myself without any help and I did it in under 15 minutes. Practice makes perfect I guess.
I may need to make another adjustment to the Cliffy in the future as its now sitting flatter to the playfield, but not perfectly. The adhesive on the Cliffy does not seem to be holding it entirely flat due to the pressure from the screw and post behind the MAP ball guide.

Thank you!

#3254 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I’m back in Texas working on PIN number one - the shooter rod contacts the auto plunger robbing power which the CA pin doesn’t do.
Does this look normal? Trying to determine if the auto plunge needs adjustment or the rod assembly itself.
[quoted image]

Hard to see if anything on the auto plunger is off. My shooter rod was also hitting the auto plunger. I adjusted the manual plunger by moving its housing around. Took 3 or 4 attempts to perfectly center it, but now works great. I'd start with the manual plunger housing so that rod is perfectly centered in relation to the auto plunger. If that doesn't fix it, then you have an issue with the auto plunger.

#3327 1 year ago
Quoted from Squizz:

How do you find ball times?
Anything like lotr, longer, shorter.

For me, I generally had longer ball times on LOTR. Of course, I'm sure a lot has to do with set up.

#3328 1 year ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Yep, same thing keeps happening on my LE. Having a great game and three balls locked in the chest and the game tries to release them but can’t. I turned the game off in frustration the last time it did it and haven’t played it since. Let us know if you find a solution.

You tried adjusting the release time in the software?

#3533 1 year ago

I've noticed that when I drain sometimes At World's End multiball will automatically qualify. Just tonight, on a drain, the machine considered 2 additional shots made, and the multiball was qualified. At the same time, I can naturally qualify it. Anyone else notice this? Error on my machine, software feature, software error, ...?

#3744 1 year ago

To add on, I'm hooked after a few weeks.

#3745 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Loosen the tortuga Tom pop (instructions elsewhere in the thread.). Aim the scoop a bit to the left and tighten down. I used a tiny bit of Loctite on the threads and it hasn’t moved back since. I set mine to fire the ball into the center of the left flipper.
It’s doing this reliably after the fix.

As long as the scoop isn't loose, I would just adjust the strength in the settings.

#3941 1 year ago
Quoted from Procrastinator:

Cut the ziptie and look further down the line. All three of those targets are daisy chained together and if the wire is broken somewhere in the bundle of ziptied wires (like mine was) then they won’t register at all. I think it’s the green and brown wire, but not 100% on the color

I'm almost certain it's the green and brown wire.

#3997 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Odds are you won't. It is easy to remove. Unplug a few connectors and a few opto connectors below the playfield. ( you can skip this step if you want to set the ship on the side and fix a wire ) Remove the big clip holding the arm from the motor to the ship, and the big white nylon spacer, and the outside of the back wall of the playfield. Then between the ship and inside back wall of the playfield remove the hex head screw ( 1/8th inch ) sticking up. Grab the ship and slide towards rear of the game to release it from it's two pivot points. Done, it's loose.
If you aren't doing the connectors, it's a few minute job.
To reinstall. Hold the ship towards the back wall and when even with the pivot points slide towards the front of the game. Put screw back. Put nylon spacer back and then the arm then the clip.
Done.
LTG : )

I wasn't able to successfully lay it on its side. Seemed like there wasn't enough slack from below. Could be helpful if someone were to show in detailed photos which wires to disconnect down below. With that said, you probably won't have to fiddle with the ship new out of the box.

On another note, the game gets better and better the more you learn the rules! I'm having a great time with it. Just need to get better with all of the many shots you need to hit.

#4001 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I reviewed my pics from 3 machines. All are loomed differently so you’ll have to evaluate this based on your own setup, but this is the one we did last night.
The red arrow is the zip tie we snipped, which frankly was enough to give us the slack we needed. We did mark and unplug the two harnesses marked in yellow also.
Hope this helps.[quoted image]

Thank you, both!

#4005 1 year ago

Every now and then balls get stuck in the chest. It has trouble releasing them. It seems to only happen when I get a number of multiballs going at the same time. I'm sure it has to do with the timing of the release mechanism. What are your settings in this regard?

#4028 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I’ve never watched a single movie from POTC. Will I still enjoy this pin? Undecided between POTC or MBr

I've also never seen any of them, but I'm really into it!

#4035 1 year ago

Just had my best game yet! It included playing Kraken?, the wizard mode that starts up the Maelstrom (sp?) ramp. I know I hit a ton of shots, right, then, left, and so forth. Don't know if I beat it, though, as it may have timed out. Couldn't look at the monitor. Does it time out? The music was intense! Finally starting to consistently hit all the shots when I want. This includes the extra ball shot, but I can still be more consistent there.

This is my first JJP. Feel free to call me a JJP fan boy! Didn't get into the prior 3 JJP releases, but I hope their future ones are on this level.

1 week later
#4613 1 year ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Just joined the club #220. Few questions..does the start button have a light ? Mine is not lighting. Wires are connected.
When does the map spin? Played a few fast games never saw it spin once.
Vuk in front of pops ejected ball so hard it hit the glass.. you guys turning down the power ? It happen on once but caught my attention.
Lastly un boxing 4 loose t nuts fell out of the box..i looked under the game and none are missing...i have no idea were they came from
Game looks,sounds awesome...i have no idea what i am doing but it seems fun....lol. feb 19 build date on game. Thanks [quoted image]

Yes, start button lights. Check to make sure all connections are solid.

I believe the map spins when you hit one of the 3 letters?

Yes, I turned down the power. Some have said the bracket was also loose, but that shouldn't cause the ball to hit the glass. If you're getting inconsistent shots out of Tortuga, the bracket is likely loose.

#4973 1 year ago

None of my switches on the Black Pearl are working. I believe it's the green and brown wire that's the problem. Has anyone been able to fix that wire without removing the ship? I haven't done it yet, and would prefer to not remove it until I have my Cliffys.

#4974 1 year ago

Anyone not watch any of the movies until after they started playing this machine? I haven't seen any of them and I'm wondering if it will enhance my enjoyment of the game if I do watch them.

#4979 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I had one machine where 3 of the Pearl switches were out and yes it was that wire. Sorry to say it has to come out, there is no way you’re going to solder it back without doing so.

Bummer. Hopefully I receive my protectors soon. Thank you for your response.

#5061 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Not possible.
You most likely don't have to remove the ship, which would add cutting one cable tie, and unplug three connectors and three opto connectors below the main playfield. Easy to find, they come through a big hole in the playfield right below the black pearl.
This isn't hard. Lift front of playfield up and pull forward to rest on the front of the game. On the rear of the back wall of playfield. See picture below. Remove the big clip, lower the flat metal thingy that hooks the black pearl to the motor. Remove the white nylon spacer. Between the rear wall of the playfield and rear of the black pearl, in the space between them. Look straight down and see the 1/8 allen head bolt sticking up. Remove it.
Then I'd lay a towel or something on the main playfield to the front left area of the black pearl. Then grab the black pearl and slide towards the rear of the game lifting it off it's two pivot points. Then you can lift up a little and rest on the left side ( if you didn't unhook the connectors, if you did that you can remove the whole thing and put on a table or something to work on it ).
Fix what needs fixing. Put it back in game. Done.
LTG : )[quoted image]

Thanks, Lloyd. I have pretty much had it disconnected in the past (everything but not disconnecting stuff under the playfield) when a few of the switches weren't working, but didn't want to fully remove it. In doing that I suspect I jostled the green and brown wire enough to "reattach" to the switches. It's now disconnected again, and I'm sure just needs some good soldering. I want to wait until I have my Cliffy protectors, though. Thanks again.

2 weeks later
#5961 1 year ago
Quoted from darkryder:

I finally fixed my treasure chest issue tonight for good. All you guys with locked balls in the treasure chest not releasing during multi ball, here’s your fix. Basically, the chest is too level and not angled to the left enough for the balls to roll out. The black foam inside the chest is intended to be there and is NOT the issue. The fix is to remove the nut holding down the right side of the chest. Then install a second identical nut on the threads first and tighten it down. Position the chest bracket back over the bolt and install the other nut to secure the chest. You’ve effectively added more left angle to the chest and now the balls will roll out of the chest much easier. I had slightly magnetized Ninja balls and replaced them with new ones and that made no difference, but raising the right side of the chest fixed this issue for good. So nice to lock three balls in the chest multiple times in a game and have them release like they should now. You may have to bend the release arm slightly towards the closed position if the balls are rolling out of the chest and overpowering the hold arm as they will have more weight and momentum.
Now I need to figure out how to fix the loose slingshot posts from tearing into the playfield art and chipping it. Maybe replace those thin posts with regular star posts to protect and also cover the existing damage? The screen in the backbox is also won’t stay level and locked in the latches. I’ve tried messing with it over and over and as soon as I install the backglass, it pops out of the latches and sags on one or both sides. Looks like crap and I want this fixed.
This thread is really great with everyone co tributing with mods and fixes. It’s an amazing game when everything works![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Good tip on the chest.

For the thin posts on the slingshots, consider using rubber washers below the posts.

1 week later
#6419 1 year ago
Quoted from evh347:

Special thanks to my friend @TimBoch and his daughter for their help today installing the MAP hole Cliffy on my JJPOTC today.
There isn't yet a video showing how to take the Black Pearl ship off the game, so I took pics along the way. I'm sure the pics won't appear in the exact intended order, but it should give the general idea well enough.
Hopefully this helps anyone who may need to take the Black Pearl completely off. My suggestion, is to get at least two pairs of hands. I carefully snipped just one zip tie off holding the cluster of wires underneath the playfield. Ensure you don't accidentally cut thru anything important.!
In short, there are SEVEN connectors under the playfield that first need to be disconnected and they need to be carefully passed thru the plastic underneath where the Black Pearl was mounted. I've circled their locations in the pictures. I eventually took a black sharpie and wrote on #'s on them to help me remember what goes where, but they are keyed fairly obviously so not much chance to screw that up. The three little Molex connecters are color coded on the board they connect to. I temporarily disconnected the small black Molex just to give me better access to the other plugs. In putting everything back, my left ship spinner initially wasn't registering in test, but that was resolved just by going back and re-seating those plugs.
To remove the ship, you need an Allen key to extract the Allen pin behind the ship, pull the cotter pin on the arm (behind the playfield), collect the white spacer, and then ensure the upper playfield pin that was secured with the cotter pin is manually retracted thru the back of the playfield. Once that's done, pull backwards on the ship towards the back of the playfield, and carefully lift it up and out. It's possible to carefully guide it out from under the VUK guide w/o removing the VUK guide, just take your time. When handling the upper playfield, its a good idea to be mindful about where exactly you're handling it due to the sensitive components underneath, so make sure you're not putting pressure on something fragile. What I do is keep my hands on the wood sides until I can be assured I'm not handling it from something that could break. Do NOT get lazy at this point and be mindful about what/where you go setting this thing because its heavy enough to break whatever you rest it on. You really need two people to do this. I had help guiding the cables up and thru from underneath as I extracted everything together to set aside.
After you get the ship off, there are 5 nylon nuts that need to be removed in order to lift up on the plastic on top of the MAP targets. Then you just remove the two posts and the one screw holding the MAP hole ball guide. We didn't need to completely take the plastic off as there was enough flexibility to get the Cliffy placed.
Clean the MAP hole area with the supplied alcohol wipe, place the Cliffy, and re-install everything. Note: In removing two of the posts under the plastic, one of the chapter select sling rubbers was released. No big deal, just re-install the sling rubber after you install the Cliffy and then get the posts back where they belong.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you, evh347! This post was very helpful in installing the Cliffy. Your Tortuga post was also very helpful.

I also had the green and brown wire problem. All 6 targets on the Pearl weren't working. It wasn't obvious where the problem was, though. I reflowed solder to all the targets. It seemed like they all needed more solder. Wherever the problem(s) was/were, they're all working now.

The playfield isn't rocking smoothly now. It's rubbing a little on the wires. I need to zip tie down below to tighten them up.

Anyway, a big thank you to you.

#6763 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Back at it..
So "basically" the pin is stock at the top:
zaphx
I saw in your guide where you have to loosen some screws and this pin should never touch the top or bottom so that the ship can move freely.
All I had to do was take the playfield out once and put it back in to mess this up.
Seems really weird that I would have tightened the screws by doing this unless I didn't quite get the pf in right even though it locked in place and everything.
I can take a picture from underneath as well if it helps.
[quoted image]

Is the motor that rocks the Pearl fully secured? Tightened down properly?

#6764 1 year ago
Quoted from wheels:

Is the motor that rocks the Pearl fully secured? Tightened down properly?

Never mind. In testing that motor, make sure the post to which the Pearl attaches doesn't hit the top or bottom of the slot. If it does, adjust appropriately.

#7010 1 year ago

A general PSA:

I had the green and brown wire problem on the Pearl that many had. When I removed and examined it, it wasn't obvious where the problem was, so I resoldered every switch where the wire was. 6 switches, if I recall correctly. Also resoldered another wire at one of the switches. I now have lights and sounds I didn't have before and the cannon is obviously more accessible. My take is that many of the switches were thin on solder. It may be worthwhile to resolder all of the switches when you remove the Pearl.

#7011 1 year ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I guess I better get on this then.
I see the Map has a Map-2 as well.
Thanks for clarifying.
Have you done any custom mylar in addition to the Cliffys?

I always put on the fake mylar around the edges of all Cliffys. It has worked well for me.

#7203 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Currently have the ship off to install the map Cliffy protectors, going well. With the mini playfield off I was wondering if it would be worth it to mylar the chapter select magnet area? Think its needed?

Yes. I installed fake mylar.

#7212 1 year ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

What is fake mylar? I have some vinyl static cling stuff I may try but don't think it will hold up... Free to try and pretty low risk though.

I believe this is it. Years ago, I bought some Avery vinyl sheets. They've worked well for me, but I don't ever apply them over playfield inserts as I recall reading about at least 1 person having issues with the decals/graphics on top of inserts lifting with the vinyl.

#7288 1 year ago

Anyone have a good idea what to do on the Dead Men Tell No Tales wizard mode? I didn't do well on that tonight.

1 month later
#10256 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackzarak:

Hey well I need some help guys I hope I'm not totally screwed so I turn. On my new pirates game today and I got a error message I check it out and now none of my rgb or lights turn on I only got 10 games on it. The only thing that turns on are my spot lights any help would be appreciated (game seems to work fine) something about sling 21 not working or weak[quoted image]

Switch 21 is stuck closed. This means that the contacts are constantly touching. They should only touch when triggered by the ball. You need to separate the contacts so that only the ball causes them to touch. In short, properly gap the switch.

1 week later
#10789 1 year ago

Anyone know of an "instruction manual" for the wizard modes? Doesn't seem like there's ever enough time for me to figure out what to do and then it times out fairly quickly.

#10791 1 year ago

I'm running the latest software version, .99. I thought in .98 that an extra ball would solidly light the shoot again insert, but now it won't solidly light. I tested the different color options for that insert in the test mode and all the colors appear. That makes it seem like a software bug. Software bug or light problem?

#10800 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:0.99 defaults to balls in reserve rather than the traditional extra ball behavior we all grew up with - as a full install 0.99 would have reset that setting on your game - and on balls in reserve the shoot again light behaves differently.

Thank you!

#10801 1 year ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Ok let see if I remember all of this.
Curse of the black pearl wiz mode
Goal to retrieve 886 pieces of gold. Best way to collect the gold is via spinners and after 120~ gold you have to shoot a lt shot to change locations. Mode ends when all pieces are collected.
Dead mans chest wi mode.
Goal hit a bunch of inner loops while keeping “tentacles down”. If you can hit the loops fast enough you do not have to worry about fighting off the tentacles. After 18~ loops you get to kill the kraken. Do not remember but pretty sure it’s 18 loops then star map shot to finish
Devil’s Triangle wiz mode
Goal hit 5-6 lits shots before timer runs out. Also missing shots count against you on this one. Miss 3-5 shots and mode ends. This one is easy as all it is is hitting a few shots to end mode.
At worlds end wiz mode.
Goal is to try to get to the upside down. Starting mode half of play field is red half is blue. You are trying to get the ship to turn over. Blue shots progress this and red shots hinder this. Every correct shot you make the colors swap. So after hitting a blue shot all of the red shots become blue and the blue shots no one red. Hit the correct shot 5-6 times and the ship fully turns over. Can’t remember if there is 1 more shot after doing that to complete mode.
Last but not least. Fountain of youth wizard mode. This is the most in depth wiz mode currently in game. Mode starts with 5 lit shots. You must hit all 5 shots in like 30 seconds to advance. After hitting the 5 shots I think it was shoot a inner loop shot. After that was done you had to shoot stat map to end mode. I don’t remember the actual shots it asked for but when you do mode the first 5 shots are lit. Then the shots it asks for after first part are shown in the bottom right of screen.
Hopefully this helps

Excellent write-up. Thank you.

1 week later
#11082 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

If you notice the longer the ball
Is Up there the boat starts rocking more right. It will dip right, I believe it’s programmed and designed to be left heavy to keep the ball up longer and to not make it impossible to load the cannon

This is correct. There’s a bias to the left. You can see it in the slot in the backboard. As long as the mech isn’t "bottoming out" at the top or bottom you're good. Although, I'm not sure about it going to the right the longer the ball is up there. I think it's more of more rocking to both sides the deeper in the game you go.

2 months later
#12026 1 year ago

Anyone know the easiest way to install mini playfield left flipper rubber? Hoping I don't need to remove much to do so. Thanks.

#12028 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Just take off the two nuts on that left plastic trim piece and life it away from the flipper.

Tried that, but it's very tight! Don't want to bend to the point it breaks. Tried sliding under, but my rubber is a bit thick. (Not trying to make inappropriate joke here!!) Tempted to slide a little Vaseline on here! Am I missing something?

#12030 1 year ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

Lift the plastic off once you get the nuts off as much as you can,,,then just work it in there, it will go. I did mine no issue.

Thought I tried that. Just 2 top-side nuts, correct? Plastic seems fairly inflexible. Really don't want to break. Thinking I may have to completely remove BP?

2 months later
#13082 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I don't think it would be ideal because of its 1-1/16" height. I think that height would mean the sling rubber would have to go around the sleeve also instead of just going around the post. If you look at the 1/2" tall sleeve shown in the picture in the following post, adding another 9/16" height would make pretty tall (it's difficult to notice the sleeve at first, but the ball is resting against it under the white sling rubber in the picture).
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/227#post-5094603
Here's the one I used from Marco. It's 1/2 inch high and it tops out just below the sling rubber.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-5151
If you're looking to order from Pinball Life instead it seems like this might work:
https://www.pinballlife.com/12-sternsegadata-east-black-rubber-post-sleeve.html
It's 1/2 inch high, so it will sit below the sling rubber. The inner diameter is listed as 5/16" vs. 3/8" on the one from Marco, but they both show the same Sega/Stern/Data East part reference number 545-5151-00, so it seems like they should be the same. Hope this helps.

Perfect! That definitely helps. Thank you!

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