(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!


By goren1818

2 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

20 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #222 Liar's Dice rules explained! Posted by goren1818 (1 year ago)

Post #644 Rules flow chart Posted by Rbviessman (11 months ago)

Post #1021 How to fix black pearl lamps Posted by Yelobird (11 months ago)

Post #1360 Black Pearl flippers are uneven when in upper position - Fix Posted by evh347 (10 months ago)

Post #2468 Hardware fix for balls getting hung up during multiball. Posted by Pinballpal (9 months ago)

Post #2892 Adjustment for auto plunger not hitting balls cleanly or correctly Posted by Pinballpal (9 months ago)

Post #3974 Deadflip stream from Valentine’s Day 2019. Posted by Tuna_Delight (8 months ago)

Post #4014 POTC trouble shooting guide Posted by zaphX (8 months ago)

Post #4856 Possibly let distributor go through machine and get it tuned in. Posted by dgposter (7 months ago)

Post #6315 Fix for dauntless positioning, canon shots not landing Posted by Yelobird (6 months ago)

Post #6631 Twitch Video - How to Remove and Reinstall Black Pearl Upper Playfield Posted by KevInBuffalo (6 months ago)

Post #6655 Mylar bubble at jjPotC Map hole. Posted by thc666 (6 months ago)

Post #6834 Titan ring sizes Posted by AUKraut (6 months ago)

Post #8145 Positives and Negatives for each character Posted by EaglePin (5 months ago)

Post #8288 Rubber Sizing and Location on Playfield Posted by f3honda4me (5 months ago)

Post #8602 How to see pictures the game has taken Posted by f3honda4me (5 months ago)

Post #8625 Version .99 release notes as of 5/6/2019 Posted by pinball_keefer (5 months ago)

Post #8709 How to backup settings before installing an update Posted by LTG (5 months ago)

Post #9273 Version .99 Character Plus and Minus Benefits Posted by pinball_keefer (5 months ago)

Post #11892 Clear concise video on removing the black pearl Posted by rlslick (58 days ago)


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#5637 7 months ago

Nope. Out of LEs. May be getting some of the last Standards made.

#5638 7 months ago
Quoted from cbdarden:

Love the game and continue to be incredibly disappointed with the QA. Who thought it a good idea to ship a pin out the door with the shooter rod hitting the automatic plunger. AND not being able to lower the plunger enough that it doesn’t hit it? I’ve tried double stacking washers to angle it down, guess I’ll do three. How was this not QA’d? It’s only essential to the game to get the ball into play.

The cause isn't what you think it is. The playfield brackets have bent from the weight of the playfield. We had this problem starting with Hobbit. Lift the playfield and bend the bracket hooks back down slightly and that will raise the auto-launcher up enough to let the shooter rod pass. It's not exclusively a JJP problem. Had it happen last month on Houdini as well after a year on location.

#5678 7 months ago
Quoted from screaminr:

If that is the cause of the problem and the fix to the issue well done . I'm surprised none of the experts have thought of this , as this has been an ongoing problem here for ages .

95% sure this is the fix for this particular described problem as the symptoms are the same as what happens when the bracket begins to bend from the weight of the playfield and I've seen this a number of times with JJP games (never WoZ for some reason, though), and once with AP Houdini. It's an easy fix, but it's irritating since harder playfield hook metal would fix it.

#5729 7 months ago
Quoted from ngg:

New issue.....
Intermittently when a ball drains sdtm with the ball save light on, ball will not be put back into shooter lane. Machine goes into ballsearch mode then acts as if ball was drained. Next ball is then given.
Thoughts?

Make sure you don't have magnetized balls, which can slow or stop the ball in the trough so it doesn't get to home. You can use a steel paperclip to check.

#5730 7 months ago
Quoted from dnaman:

And the fix is now shipping on new POTC from factory.

Only new standards left to be made before they're done, last I heard.

#5736 7 months ago
Quoted from Pinzzz:

I’ve had two sets of balls, from two different companies magnetize in POTC. will it ever end?

Were they carbon steel or "chrome" balls?

#5738 7 months ago
Quoted from Pinzzz:

I would have to research...but, one set was Ninja’s from Mezel mods. and the other set was from Titan pinball from a couple years back.

Ninja balls are a no-no in games with magnets. They even have a disclaimer on their page for them about it.

Basically, the "chrome" balls magnetize faster.

#5741 7 months ago
Quoted from Pinzzz:

How bout these? they advertise resistance to residual magnetism...
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-5

I've bought Marco pinballs in the past and never had any problems with them. They're not cheap, though!

#5754 7 months ago
Quoted from fastchef:

I’m having an issue with the ball not getting a full plunge. It seems to be hitting the automatic plunger when I pull the plunger. If I turn the knob a bit one way or the other it goes back to normal. Any ideas?

Your playfield hooks have likely bent from the weight of the playfield, which lowers the auto-plunge bracket into the path of the manual plunger. Lift the playfield onto the service rails and bend the two hooks down a little. This commonly happens over time with JJP machines we've had (except WoZ). I don't know why they don't use harder metal on the hooks so they don't bend over time.

#5758 7 months ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Anyone replace with better hooks? If so what did you use?

I haven't looked that hard. On location, I just bend them back every 6 months or so when it becomes a problem again.

But if someone comes up with better hooks that don't bend over time, I'd definitely buy them.

#5769 7 months ago
Quoted from Hogbog:

We created new hooks before POTC because of this issue. Likely just need to adjust the shooter housing down a bit. Pretty sure you could hang a semi from these hooks now and not bend them. You will see if you pull the apron on Pirates vs Hobbit, for example.

We have a Pirates LE coming in, so looking forward to checking this out.

Any idea why WoZ ECLE (and maybe RR) never did this? It's the only JJP that we had that didn't have the problem.

#5771 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Pirates weigh more than witches?

No idea. I don't think Dialed In weighs more than WoZ, though, and it does it, too. Hobbit, I understand. Those individually controlled targets and 4 pop ups add a lot of weight.

#5779 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Just wear that Dark Helmet costume and we will find you. Lol. Welcome aboard just remember rules are more like bylaws, we are simple Pirates having fun with the best dam machine ever made!

I don't think it's designed to hold back water.

#5849 7 months ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Likely. When it comes down to votes, there are a lot more enthusiastic IMDN owners than POTC owners.

I think there are just MORE owners in general for Maiden, which probably translates into more votes. Looking forward to jjPotC and hoping it's as awesome as the hype.

#5907 7 months ago
Quoted from Hogbog:

We created new hooks before POTC because of this issue. Likely just need to adjust the shooter housing down a bit. Pretty sure you could hang a semi from these hooks now and not bend them. You will see if you pull the apron on Pirates vs Hobbit, for example.

One suggestion for Pirates...can you have both flippers at the same time change the character selection row? Basically, each time you do it, it flips rows to the same position on the opposite row? It would make character selection faster/easier as it sometimes starts far from where you want to be...

#5910 7 months ago

jjPotC arrived and is getting set up to go out on the route next week. I need to wire up the topper so the eyes flash in sync with the machine and add cliffies to prevent the nasty chipping I've seen on other unfortunate machines already. I have NO IDEA why JJP didn't continue with cliffies after he solved their Dialed In problems. These mantis-style protectors jjPotC is using are not up to the task of protecting the playfield surface at the holes.
potc-84-small (resized).jpg

#5913 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Wow lots of LE’s today!
Congrats to all the new deck swabs!

Pretty much a frenzy before they're gone, hopefully not forever...

#5915 7 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Are Mantis style usually inside versus Cliffy's being outside and over?

Yeah, that's the basic difference. With the seemingly more brittle clearcoat on playfields for the last 10 years or so, the surface seems to be more in need of protection immediately than the inside edges that will blow out after years and thousands of plays (which was the concern in the diamondplate B/W days). The Dialed In we got cracked and chipped around the SIM card hole within 50 plays. JJP should definitely still be talking to Cliff about protecting their holes, especially after those pictures of the badly chipped hole under the ship. AP isn't immune, either. Houdinis have been cracked and chipped at the edge of the scoop kickout when not protected by a cliffy.

#5923 7 months ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Today I took on the mildly daunting task of installing RadCals on my LE. It took me a little longer than I expected but I'm real happy with the end results. They are thick and have a highly reflective glossy look to them. I'm pretty stoked. I really like the way they feel too.
Here are some before pics for comparison.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great!

How much was the set?

Did you use the wet install method?

#5935 7 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Hey all - I installed a cliffy around the Map hole/targets and now the map shot is nearly impossible. The ball jumps up just slightly (from the cliffy) and deflects off the back plate and bounces out rather than down. I would say one in ten shots goes in. Not sure what to do here. Maybe try a different back deflector plate? The one over the Tortuga hole comes up and over, maybe that would work? Anyone else install the cliffy and having issues?
I just looked at the parts list and interestingly the "Snubber" bracket for both the map and tortuga holes is the same part even though they are obviously different on my game.

Did you overtighten the connections over the cliffy? Too tight can make the cliffy bow VERY slightly and cause issues. It needs to have no gap between the cliffy and the playfield.

#5936 7 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

The stairs down to my game room is very steep. If I take the game apart, do the play field by itself, head and cabinet by themselves, will it help the weight?
Anyone done this? Tried to search the thread, but couldn’t find anything.

You can definitely get the playfield out of the cabinet, it's not that hard, just mark everything with little masking tape flags to note what connections go where. Head should be not that hard, either. This is a very heavy machine!

#5939 7 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

There's no gap, the double-stick tape holds it flat. As suggested above I could just remove the cliffy, but before I go that route I may try a few other deflector brackets like this one https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-8250-01.

That seems like an awesome possibility. Post back how it works if you install it, because there must be a solution. I'm not leaving the holes unprotected on the surface when damage to the playfield surface around the holes like this is already documented:

jjPotC Hole (resized).jpg
#5945 7 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

But that's after how many plays? People post those pics but don't say if the machine is on route or how many plays. Mine has 1000 plays and looks new.

Until it doesn't. Chips and cracks happen suddenly and mylar won't stop them, it just holds the pieces in place. After having Dialed In chip in multiple places around the SIM hole in like 50 plays, I don't trust unprotected holes on modern playfields, especially Mirco ones.

#5957 7 months ago

It seems like there's been discussion about it, but I can't find it. Is there some adjustment for the trunk lock forks? I can get it in there when it's lit maybe one out of 30 tries. I even upped the flipper power a few notches, but I cannot get the balls in the trunk. One ball lock in a whole game and I'm doing good. Suggestions?

#5959 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Are the fork screws loose? Fork assembly comes out with 5 screws, then the fork is held by 2. Make sure they are tight.

I checked that already. The screws are tight, but it seems like the tines are off center, biased toward the right side of the playfield cutouts. Are they supposed to be dead center?

#6001 6 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

Here is a picture from the post on one of the games on location.
[quoted image]
I highly doubt that this is something they have done with the game.
[quoted image]

They, uh, forgot to take the bubble wrap out from under the Brittania ship that stabilizes it for shipping...

#6016 6 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

It was the least confident I've heard Jack speak about something since JJP started.

The dude went through hellish development only to have it all be for naught when the discgate thing meted out almost unprecedented fan punishment at launch and hundreds of orders evaporated. I'm sure he's still licking his wounds privately.

The irony is, it actually seems like a pretty good game and demand is building up that will now apparently go unfulfilled.

But c'est la vie I guess. On to Wonka and Guns'n'Roses!

#6017 6 months ago

Okay my trunk lock rejects are mostly fixed. As I kind of thought initially (having nothing to compare it to, I wasn't 100% sure), the tines of the fork were bent towards the right wall of the chest entrance on the back, causing the ball to hit the wall on the right side of the chest hole and reject. iPhone slo-mo to the rescue.

Removed the assembly, bent both tines back toward the left, reinstalled, and I can make 3 out of 4 shots into the chest lock now. I might fine-tune it later, but it's pretty much fixed now.

One other thing that's cropped up is black screens on the bonus screen? Just the bonus text and music, but no random video playing behind it? Is this a timed bug? I've had the machine on for hours and this started happening...

Also, what's the deal with the black screen in attract mode that is all black except for "GAME #84" (the number of the game)? I have that off in the settings, but even if it was on, really? An all black screen with white text with the game number but nothing else?

#6019 6 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

The bonus screen black backgrounds are a known thing that I believe Keith is addressing in the next code update. I didn’t see them on my game until I turned off the protips but I’m not certain if the two things are related. The other situation I hadn’t heard about before.

Ah, we just turned off the tips. That must be it.

But yeah, the "Game#84" black screen with that white text in the middle in attract mode is weird, and I have the game number option turned off in the settings.

Another thing I haven't figured out is sometimes the character you have chosen will change to the #1 guy on the list without you selecting it - like well after the initial selection and ball launch I look up and I have a different character. It seems like a definite bug.

I really should start a running list of Pirates bugs and when they're fixed like I've done for a few Sterns...

#6047 6 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

I also agree that it's a cost thing. More then ever actually after they released WoZ yellow for 11.5 - an obvious increase in their margins.
POTC is prob the most loaded Pinball made ever. Speaking of, isn't it amazing how you don't see any POTC LEs for sale used? You're prob seeing the last "deal" from JJP if this trend continues. WW at 11.5 I'm out

Mechanically, The Hobbit is the most loaded, but most of it's under the playfield. The underside of Pirates looks positively sparse by comparison.

#6051 6 months ago
Quoted from Michigan1837:

I apologize if this isn't the place to post this, but it seemed like a good place to start - are there any JJP PoTC Pinballs in Southeast Michigan that can be played by the public? I don't want to spend $8.5k just to try this thing, but I'm curious if it's fun or not.
Thanks!

There's one location an hour away from you in Hamburg that has in May at the Ann Arbor show:
Vintage Flipper World
Spicer Rd, Brighton, MI 48116, USA

More immediately, three pinsiders have it in your area and might invite you to try it if asked nicely, too.

#6054 6 months ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

I think this show is already sold out unfortunately. Also unfortunately my game isn’t playing 100% and I’m out of the country for a bit or I’d invite you over.
FYI for y’all traveling internationally make sure to get some Havana Club at duty free on the way home. Can’t get it in the states and I’m hoping a bottle will help me fix my chest when I’m home.

Honestly, as the LEs are evaporating, I think there's very little chance of taking a bath on it if you buy it and find it's not for you then sell it in a month. The LEs will be rare for quite a while, maybe permanently.

FINDING an LE NIB is getting harder by the day now, though.

#6062 6 months ago
Quoted from dnaman:

I hate to say it but with this upward trend of JJP's, and now with starting to scale things back (a la 'get less for more' mentality), this leaves an opening for Deep Root. We'll see if DR puts their money where their mouth is. One or two titles to come in under Stern Pro titles and it will be anyone's guess as to what the future holds. Assuming that they materialize of course

Deeproot is just vaporware with a butthole logo at this point. I'll seriously consider them once they have playable products shown and pricing.

#6069 6 months ago
Quoted from TZBen:

Hi everybody,
Have an le coming soon, what are the protectors and mods that are popular with this title?
Thanks

Email cliff to get on the list for his full set of protectors, first thing.

www.passionforpinball.com

#6070 6 months ago
Quoted from Heater:

Im getting a right flipper EOS switch stuck message. Which switch is that?
Thanks!

Likely the blades of the switch just need to be adjusted closer together when the flipper is a rest. Visually look at them and see if they're touching when the flipper's at rest, then manually move the flipper while watching the switch and see if moving the flipper opens the gap.

It also may be a broken switch wire, but at this point it's unlikely.

#6074 6 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

When listening to jack about that and the fact that WOZ YBR will only be sold trough distributors, it kinda sounds like he is trying to get The distributors to have more stock. In other words, it’s the distributors fault that not more POTC are out there.

I hadn't thought of that, but maybe you're right and he's trying to get them to carry more inventory instead of doing just-in-time orders for customers a few at a time.

#6086 6 months ago
Quoted from Heater:

Thanks @zaphx ,
Still not sure where I'm looking. Is it the leaf switch that is hit buy the flipper button on the side? Sorry, I'm really new to this.
Thanks

It's on the under-playfield assembly directly underneath the flipper bats.

#6116 6 months ago
Quoted from PsychoPsonic:

I haven't seen any of the movies and had no interest in the theme. After playing 3 games and reading up on the rules, it was clear that if I wanted a game with very long legs for home use, able to offer depth and challenge even to my extraordinarily skilled son, Pirates was a clear winner. Our experience since its arrival in December has only further validated that impression.
As more people get the chance to experience extended free play in quiet environments and get a better sense of the game's very high quality, I expect there will be considerable pent-up demand when they decide it's time to build them again.

It's a hilarious multiplayer pin with the plundering other player's gold, treasures, and even CHARACTER in the game. That aspect hasn't been talked about that much but cracks me up. Brutal.

#6117 6 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Hey all - I installed a cliffy around the Map hole/targets and now the map shot is nearly impossible. The ball jumps up just slightly (from the cliffy) and deflects off the back plate and bounces out rather than down. I would say one in ten shots goes in. Not sure what to do here. Maybe try a different back deflector plate? The one over the Tortuga hole comes up and over, maybe that would work? Anyone else install the cliffy and having issues?
I just looked at the parts list and interestingly the "Snubber" bracket for both the map and tortuga holes is the same part even though they are obviously different on my game.

You had to have an installation problem with the map hole cliffy. I just finished this installation yesterday and map hole is just as shootable as it was before the install. My guess is you over-tightened the post or the screw on the back side and it caused the metal to raise up a little OR you didn't get the orientation of the ball deflector right when you put it back on. There's some play in it and you have to hold the angle while you tighten the screw on the left, then the post on the right.

Do you have a picture of the install? That might help to see what the problem is.

#6119 6 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

So...any tips on reading that star map?

Yeah, I don't get that at all yet.

#6127 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

How does the "Map 2" Cliffy fit into this area? Did you find any of the installations overly challenging?

The map2 piece goes on the backside of the map hole to protect the back of the hole from ball hits. The goal is to try to keep the map 1 piece as flat as possible and then not torque too much pressure on it, so I put down map 1 (after wiping the area with the activator so the 3M adhesive for the front edge would stick well):
map1 (resized).jpg
...then put the map2 piece on top of that at the backside of the hole:
map2 (resized).jpg
...then put the ball guide on the right on top of that stack. Then I put in the post and screw to hold the deflector, paying attention not to tighten overly tight and also to orient the deflector to similar orientation to when I took it off.
map3 (resized).jpg

#6129 6 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

That's got to be one of the hardest cliffies I've ever seen to put on. I think I'll pass on this one and just check the mylar periodically.

It was a pain, but given what I've seen happen on Dialed In first hand, I definitely recommend the extra protection of metal. The clear on these mirco playfields can be brittle and irreversible damage (chip off PF art or cracks in the clear) can happen unexpectedly and without warning. I would not risk it.

It was really just more annoying to install than actually hard. I'd say about 45 minutes total. Take down the stand-up targets, get the ship out of the way, remove 4 nuts, lift the plastic a bit, take off 2 posts and one screw, wipe down the area with the activator, install the cliffy pieces, then reverse the process and put everything back on. Didn't like doing it, but would not recommend skipping it.

It would be a DREAM if JJP would continue working with Cliff like they eventually did for Dialed In and have a complete package of this level of protection was installed from the factory. If they involved him in the design process of the playfields, Cliff could also help them with making holes less damage-prone (angled beveling is not the answer). He has more experience with hole and playfield surface protection than anyone out there, I have no idea why Jack isn't tapping into that.

#6132 6 months ago
Quoted from Pdxmonkey:

My map hole is fine after thousand of plays...

That's the problem. You may have lucked out, but the next person will have a chip happen without warning in 50 plays? 200 plays? 500 plays? You can't know, so why risk it? Dialed In literally cracked AND chipped in the first 50 plays while I was waiting for the cliffies to show up. And once the damage like that happens, you can't unwind it for a do-over. I just protect everything that goes out and it's worked very well. The cost for a full set of cliffies is a tiny fraction of the cost of the machine. Completely worth it for the insurance.

#6134 6 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

"drop targets"??? I think you meant stand-up targets.....

Wishing...wishing. Heh, I'll fix it.

#6136 6 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I was busy with other projects over the weekend but I hope to have time to remove the Pearl and see what I can do later this week. I did notice the cliffy is no longer sticking to the playfield, so the tape must have given out - but even if I push it back down, the shot is still mostly impossible. You may be right about the deflector needing adjustment. I also ordered a couple other deflector styles from Marco which should arrive in a day or two. One way or another I'm sure I can get it working.

The deflector design there is fine, replacing it with another style will not help, maybe just small angle adjustment is needed. My guess is you over-tightened the screws and posts and it tweaked the thin metal, causing it to raise up. It's a very common mistake with cliffies as most people think tighter=better, but with cliffies just tight enough is preferred to over-tight. They're such thin metal that tweaking becomes an issue if the pressure on them is too tight, and once they're tweaked, it's hard to get them perfectly flat again.

#6140 6 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

One of the first problems I had to fix on my POTC was two of the Star Map standups were so misaligned that they were overlapping. I've also found other parts that don't seem correctly aligned. If I didn't know better I'd say the playfield had no dimple marks for the screws during assembly and the staff just eye-balled everything. I'm exaggerating, but what I'm getting at is my map hole deflector is probably not installed the same as yours - could be 1/32" closer or farther or left or right or angled slightly and that combined with just the slightest jump from the cliffy causes the ball to bounce out rather than in. Wonder if I could record with my phone and step through video to see exactly what's happening?
Thinking about this, it could even be the small map 2 cliffy that's the cause - if it's not flush against the wood it may be introducing some additional bounce.

iPhone slow-mo is endlessly useful for diagnosing these issues, so yeah, do that. There's quite a bit of play in that deflector before you tighten it down, so it may just be tightened 5 degrees off angle.

#6141 6 months ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

What do you mean by "using an activator"?

Yeah, it's an included 3M square with rubbing alcohol that cleans the surface and helps the 3M adhesive stick strongly to the surface. You do it before putting a cliffy with adhesive on the bottom down.

#6147 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Are cliffys not standard on the game? Are they needed in a HUO environment? They are needed for dialed, at least for the sim hole.
I ordered an LE yesterday, should have in a few weeks. Thx

The only factory game with cliffies standard is Dialed In, the later run ones. Nothing else has actual cliffies on it, and JJP games need it most because they're using chip and crack-prone mirco playfields.

I know cliff is backed up as usual, so be like me and order before your machine shows up so it won't be unprotected for long. This one was only unprotected for less than a week before I got them and put them on.

#6150 6 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Anyone know what this is for? Looks like a sticker. Not sure if it came with the game or one of the mods.[quoted image]

Looks like the action button sticker for this mod:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1080-the-mod-couple/01705-jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-gold-lock-button-mod

#6153 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Not to take anything away from the winners, but I also felt POTC deserved best music and rookie of the year.

PotC has some amazing music compositions. Super-polished.

#6159 6 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

So I got my Davy Jones from eBay in the mail and he was HUGE! At first I was let down, but I realized he makes a great topper addition. [quoted image][quoted image]

I wasn't going to use the acrylic piece topper, just the skull, but then I realized that the skull overlaid onto the acrylic pretty seamlessly and added the illuminated game logo to the skull and flames behind the sword handles. So change of plan, I'm going to combine the two, uplight the skull, and wire up the eyes to light up in concert with some light or lights in the game and I'd LIKE to disable the speaker (cut it off) so the mouth can be triggered to move with no sound to have it "laugh" when you lose a ball. If I can get it all wired up, it should be pretty cool.
pirates-topper-in-progress (resized).jpg

#6161 6 months ago
Quoted from Heater:

Need some more help. The post that pops up in the left orbit under the dauntless seems to be getting stuck half the time. I think I recall some posts talking about that with a bolt being lose. Does anyone know which post it was or input.
Thanks again!

Stuck up or stuck down?

#6166 6 months ago
Quoted from anathematize:

Yes. They probably should have won for music... especially if you consider its all original compositions David made for the game. Going forward I do think the award should be for 'Best Original Music' and we can just take the band pins out of the mix. Its not really a level playfield.

100% agree. Original music award only. Why are we awarding a band's greatest hits in a pinball machine when that music was made and honed over DECADES and original pin music is usually created in only a year or so.

#6202 6 months ago
Quoted from Heater:

So I found a brass bolt inside the cabinet but I couldn't tell if it goes to the pop-up. Does anyone have a picture of the pop-up?

Bolt or screw? There's a brass screw on the bottom...

#6207 6 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

They’re still building pirates at the factory. Nothing wrong with “to be built” as of now.

I thought they were only building standards until they're out of parts?

#6209 6 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

They’re not finished everybody’s order yet so no they’re doing LEs and standards

But they've locked down orders so no new distributor orders for LEs are being taken?

#6232 6 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

Keefer has been sick for a few weeks. My guess is that they where going to launch it at Texas.
My next guest would be at MGC April 12th.

Hopefully before that. The black bonus screens are annoying, and I'm not turning the tips back on to get rid of them.

#6234 6 months ago
Quoted from Gibo:

25 games in and its off with the black pearl chasing switch faults at least its 25 plays more than I had with Dialled In before pulling it apart I guess

What switches are you having problems with?

#6236 6 months ago
Quoted from Gibo:

EOS and standup targets,I have fixed a few customers machines in the past with similar problems,probably a wire fallen off,things are pretty tight under there on the early production games

EOS was not gapped right from the factory on the one we just got. Easy fix.

#6281 6 months ago
Quoted from PinPeet:

Tech question.
I have these switch errors on the Pearl. Doesn’t look good, think I have to remove the pearl. Any first ideas?
Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

It's really not that hard to get the ship off and tilt it enough to check/fix these switches if they can't be adjusted from the top side and it's a broken wire or diode causing the error.

#6289 6 months ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Has the ship removal video by Butch been released yet?

I haven't seen it, but it's not that hard. One screw at the back of the playfield just before the playfield backboard, then a cotter pin removal of the arm behind the backboard. Take the nylon washer there off, too. Then pull the pin forward that the arm was hooked to and move the ship slightly toward the backboard and it's free. Just have to wriggle it past the ramps at the front. 3 minutes, maybe?

#6291 6 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

When did you order the cliffys? I ordered mine a month ago and didn't get them yet. He didn't respond to an email I sent a couple of days ago.

I think he said he was like 2 months out on orders last time I talked to him. Maybe he's caught up since then, but I doubt it since there's always new machines coming out that need protection.

#6319 6 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Is this a tweak required on all games or does it only affect certain build dates?

I haven't had any issues with ship aiming with the one we got. Built in Feb.

#6331 6 months ago
Quoted from slavin20:

I keep getting the ball stuck under the ship next to the Map targets. Coming off the 3rd flipper the ball goes between the metal backguard (1) of the hole to the right of these targets and another piece of metal (2) (which has the ability to move). It then gets stuck as you see in the picture below. Any ideas of how to stop the ball from getting in between these two metal pieces?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Your post on the right behind the bracket is supposed to go through the lane guide AND the right hole on the bracket to hold the lane guide down. You can see the screw tab on the bracket, but no screw in it, which is why the bracket's lifted and allowing balls in.
map2 (resized).jpgmap3 (resized).jpg

#6382 6 months ago

We've only had this for a bit over a week, but the star map was driving me nuts with the giant halos around all the star points. So, I made a filter to focus the LED points so it looks like real stars. Haven't worked out pricing yet, but this will be in the Pin Monk store very soon (with some better pics - these were just taken quickly) once I have that figured out. Installation is less than 5 minutes, and it makes a HUGE difference in the look of the star map!
star-map-before-sml (resized).jpgstar-map-after-sml (resized).jpg

#6383 6 months ago
Quoted from slavin20:

I installed legs without using the provided leg protectors. Didn’t know I was supposed to put them in between cabinet and legs. Should I take apart and reinstall with them, or not a big deal and leave it. Thanks

Install. If it's like Dialed In (I haven't checked) the curve of the leg still makes light contact with the cabinet at one point and will rub a wrinkle or wear spot into the cabinet. Maybe why they added the felt...

#6392 6 months ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

Can you show a picture of it from the players view? Further back? I like your concept. I was just thinking as I was looking at it, that when looking at the real nighttime sky, all stars are not equal in size. I'm thinking that it would may look better if they were all a bit different.

I had one taken further back but there was a lot more glare and reflections. I could make them different sizes, but that would be changing it, not just refining it, and I try to work within the original intent to just make the presentation better. They're all the same size in the original there's just giant halos to kind of obscure that. The reason they look different sizes in the "before" pic is I took that while they were animating in the game so some are turning on and some are turning off in that picture, and the "after" picture was static in the system menu with all lit up at equal brightness.

I'll try to take a movie of it so you can see it in action. It looks a LOT better than stock.

#6413 6 months ago

I tried making larger holes for the stars, but it gets away from looking like star-like points of light and more like light blobs, which is what I was trying to get away from with the stock massive light halos look. So I think I'll offer it with the factory size star holes that line up with the cover plastic and people can easily drill out some or all of the holes if they want to suit their personal preference. Getting the map template right is the hard part and that will be done already. Here's a comparison I shot.

This is the way it comes from the factory where they light doesn't really come through the holes they made in the screened plastic, but basically bleeds all around the holes making a bunch of fuzzy blobs that look kind of like the WOPR:
factory-look.gif

The this one is with the holes in the filter I made widened to 3/64" :
3-64 star holes.gif

The second one is using filter holes that are only as large as the light openings on the factory cover plastic, which I think looks more star-like:
stock-star-holes.gif

You can always make a small hole bigger, but you can't make a big hole smaller (at least not easily), so shipping them with the smaller holes will make it flexible enough for everyone's taste to be met (but I think most will like the small holes when they see it in real life).

I don't think the screened plastic suggests clouds. It looks more like a dark starlit night at sea where you can see some of the milky way (possibly embellished with color) with maybe a few clouds blobs in the foreground of the graphic.

#6415 6 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Just a suggestion but I fear making these holes pin size will take away from the goal of reading what the star formations are drawing as a game feature. Will end up looking like a grid of dots is from what I see. Seems like the original design was to give the appearance of looking at the stars through a cloudy sky?

You can still read them if they're reduced to more star-like points. If looking at them through a cloudy (Hazy maybe? Is cloudy even possible?) sky was the goal of how they shipped it, it was a factory fail. It just looks like uniform blobs of light as it comes from the factory. One of the few things that drove me nuts immediately.

#6417 6 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Totally understand just suggesting it might be hard to decipher (not that it’s easy now) the star map images if they are just micro dots. A bit larger blends them to form some basic shaded shape. Sounded like you were playing with hole diameters just giving a suggestion.

I totally appreciate it. I just can't leave it with the blobby light because it completely ruins the idea that I'm looking at stars and makes me think, "Would you like to play a game, professor?" instead. But you did give me an idea for something else to try as a Star Map bonus Jonas...

#6430 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Lifted the playfield again, finally got them set again.
Anyone know why these might be so snug???

Snug on the one here, too.

#6466 6 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Ok, I can't read that star map for the life of me. What is the one in this gif telling you?

It's saying "Attract mode on, stick money in"

#6473 6 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

From your pics you are missing 2 2" pieces of rubber padding one on each vertical stop (circled in red where it should go on your pic below):[quoted image]

Those rubber pieces came off the second time I put the lockdown bar back on. Put them back on, they came off again. Gave up, left them off.

#6474 6 months ago
Quoted from RichterMC:

Anybody know where this big screw belongs ?

That's a carriage bolt. It looks like the ones that go on the sides of the head on the bottom to hold on the hinge. There are supposed to be 3 on each side on the bottom edge of the head.

Quoted from RichterMC:

Three of the spot light LEDs already break.
On some just the lens fall off, on others LED fall out altogether.
They look like OPTIX MAXIMUS from Comet but are 12 volts DC and not 6,3 Volt AC.
I need to find a better solution for the spot lights, not fun to drive to location just to remove a LED from the subway or trough...

THIS is the solution JJP should be using from the factory. Pretty much bulletproof method to rock-solid spotlights, and looks better than glue or clips. If you do this on your spotlights, they will not fall out again:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights

#6515 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I don’t believe so. I have found the spots to be extremely flaky. They can be tweaked or replaced, see the notes on http://tinyurl.com/potcfixes

Thanks for that link, but annoying that's in iCloud pages. Why not just put it in a PDF? So much less hassle.

#6522 6 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

There's an option to download a copy and save it PDF, click the wrench icon see the download option and from there the formats it can be saved as.

Thanks for that. I'll do it right away. We should probably start a jjPotC troubleshooting/solutions thread and make that post 1 with a portable PDF attached that can be taken along with. There are enough niggly issues with jjPotC it would be nice to have all the solutions and conversation about potential solutions in one place for new owners.

#6525 6 months ago
Quoted from anathematize:

Seems redundant. This thread is - bar none - the best place for solutions to issues with Pirates. I can't think of an issue I've seen that hasn't been covered in this thread so far.

Problem is, it's mixed in with general conversation. A dedicated issue thread would be a faster read for new owners.

#6529 6 months ago

It's not that effective, especially if you don't know what the issue is called/posted as.

#6538 6 months ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

Question- the shooter rod doesn't appear to be "long enough" to rest the ball high enough on the rubber tip for the autoplunger to hit the ball effectively. Other than "pushing up" on the rubber, a makeshift solution but not a great one, how do I fix?
[quoted image]

If you pull and release on the shooter with no ball, does the autoplunger bracket tick forward (it's being hit by the shooter rod)?

#6541 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

No need to push yourself while getting a move in! I'm sure many have said it here before, but you, and many in this thread, do an amazing job helping spread info and advice.

Mine might. Is that an issue if it does?

It retards the energy of the rod, so it can be an issue. Either your shooter rod was installed too high or the playfield hanger hooks are bending. Hogbog said this (hooks bending from the weight of the PF) is fixed (it was a real problem on Hobbit and Dialed In), but I'm not so sure, because I think the jjPotC here is starting to have the same issue.

#6543 6 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

If the ball is plunging no it’s not an issue. If the auto plunger throws the ball not an issue. Any other occurrence doesn’t matter as long as they are doing what they were designed to do.

This isn't true. If it's retarding energy off the shooter rod, it makes it hard to gauge the amount of pull needed to hit the skill shot, often from shot to shot (since the amount of nicking varies). It absolutely matters if you want to do skill shots.

#6545 6 months ago
Quoted from cheshirefilms:

No movement of the autoplunger from the shooter rod.

Sounds like that's not your issue, then. Try slo-mo filming with your camera phone. It can often highlight the problem.

#6548 6 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I was simply offering Wesman a simple answer to a simple question. No sense creating a possible worrisome issue that’s not really there. I felt bad watching the dozen posts dismantling the lock bar only to find a simple bad staple. I recall he went through some troubles with Houdini so I suspect he’s not a seasons pinball tech just yet. In time yes, for now it’s best to not over analize mechanics and make fun complicated. Just my thought hoping to see a Pirates owner simply enjoy the game not diagnos it.

I understand the why, and I'm down with that in a PM direct to him, but as a general post other people will read it and have the wrong idea. Just trying to keep the information strictly true.

#6551 6 months ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

I just ordered one of these today; any summary of "must do" fixes on day one? (mylar, cliffy's, anything?).
I ordered the silicone washers from the Fix Guide, but not sure what else to get within reason. I expect some wear and tear, but I remember reading about concerns re: the map area where the balls bounce, scoop chipping etc; it sounded like some cliffy's came with recent versions of the game?
Any help is appreciated!

You don't get cliffies. You get mantis ripoff protectors that are not helpful at all for protecting the chippable surface of the playfield. I'd email cliff ASAP and get a set of his ordered, since it will probably be a month or 6 weeks before your order comes up to be shipped. There's some pictures of the cliffy map hole install, which is the most challenging one on jjPotC in the image gallery on this thread.

Edit: Here's the post for the map hole install - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/123#post-4902185

#6553 6 months ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Thank you for the heads up! I have emailed re the protectors. Open to other thoughts though. Not 100 percent sure these will be needed on a home game bit from what I read some have had worse luck than others with chipping.

After dialed in chipped in less than 50 plays, and with some jjPotC on location chipping already, it's not really the amount of play, it's the luck of the draw with the Mirco playfields JJP uses. I wouldn't run a JJP machine without cliffies as a result.

The game's pretty complete as-is, so I don't really have a recommendation for other must have things for it. I do like the Kraken mod because it looks cool, and maybe a 3D barrel top for the lower pop bumper because it will then match the other one next to it better, but that's about it. I'm working on a mod for the star map that will make the light look more star-like, but it's not quite done yet.

#6556 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Is there a reason why the attract music would cut off after about 2-3 seconds of playing? I'll adjust the volume on the outside volume control, then it cuts off fairly quickly.
I also have a noticeable electric hum when play isn't active from the speakers in the head.

Ground loop isolator is what you need to get rid of the hum. Dirt cheap, but I think JJP will send you one if you call tech support.

#6560 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Oh excellent! That sounds familiar from this thread! I'm missing a manual cd, and topper plugs and screws also. Should I contact my distributor for all of these or JJP tech support?
Would this be causing the attract audio cut out also?

Did JJP pack topper plugs and screws with some of the LEs? The one we got didn't have them, but I just dipped into my spare parts and made it work.

I'd call JJP tech support directly, you'll probably get faster resolution.

#6572 6 months ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

Shots to the chest seem to go in when lock is lit but then just bounce out. Only a really hard shot will cause the ball to go up and into the trunk. Is this normal behaviour?

We're having the same problem here. Initially, the forks were bent to the right and it was slamming the ball into the side of the chest opening rather than into the chest. I bent them back to the left (they're tight, so that's not it) and now about 30% of the hits to the chest make it into the trunk, but I can't figure out how to get that number up so it's not rejecting so many. It's really the only major issue I have left to tweak to get it all working well.

#6577 6 months ago
Quoted from roddog:

I finally installed a map cliffy last night. What a pain that was. There were 2 cliffys for the map. Was the 2nd, smaller one supposed to also be installed from the top? I assumed it was installed from under the playfield. But it also seems like a pain to get into. And those arent standard screws. Or did I mess up bigtime and was supposed to stack the 2 cliffys? Will probably leave that one uninstalled. STILL LOVIN' THE GAME THO!

This post shows the installation of both pieces:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/123#post-4902185

#6581 6 months ago
Quoted from estrader:

Is the disc silencer kit from mod couple still necessary on the new builds?

The one we have from mid-feb is LOUD. Seems to have calmed down a little, but it's WAY louder than other games with spinning discs I've played.

#6583 6 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

The easy fix is to crank the volume up.

Unfortunately, some locations don't want loud pins, so that's not an option there.

#6586 6 months ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

Don't think my forks are bent. Feels like the switch isn't triggering the forks, but I'll take a look again

You can take a slo-mo video with your phone to help diagnose what's happening. It helped get me from 0% to 30%.

#6591 6 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Just a small heads up for owners. The inside corners of the lockdown bar does not have mylar applied which if you are not careful can lead to scratching of the powder coat on the side rails. JJP was applying mylar to the corners of lockdown bars on some or all of their past games, not sure why they stopped with Pirates. I cut a few pieces of mylar and applied it to my lockdown bar today.

Yeah, it's a weird omission.

#6656 6 months ago
Quoted from thc666:

just got my cliffys this week . just in time. found this when i was about to take the pearl off. how that happened have no idea.
this is just a heads up to the guys who dont think they need cliffys.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Echoes of Dialed In's SIM Card hole chipping. Like they eventually did on Dialed In after months of failures, JJP should be using actual cliffies from the factory to protect the SURFACE of the proven chippable mirco playfields, not the inside of the holes OR get the next level up of Mirco playfields that are supposedly harder. Mirco offers several levels of PF finish, but you have to pay as you go up them.

#6658 6 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

I'm not seeing damage anywhere. Am I just missing it? You're not talking about the mylar bubble on the right of the hole are you? That's not PF damage, it's just a mylar bubble. :p In fact, most POTCs seem to have it. Mine has it too. It's like the mylar wasn't set correctly on the PF or sized wrong. But the PF is undamaged underneath.

It looks like the playfield is chipped under that mylar, but it may be the angle. A closer picture would be good.

#6667 6 months ago
Quoted from drfrightner:

I'm making a mod for POTC... this will replace the star map. This mod will just hang off the star map, and it will include a screen about the same size as the one featured in the Hobbit game.
It will feature a 3D print cover for the screen, and show clips from the movie. I'm not selling the video just the mod which will feature a screen and player. All you do is pop in a mini SD card and play the whole movie if you want.
We're going to mock up an awesome set of clips, we do CGI work, video production for the amusement attractions we build World Wide. So this will be easy... I was going to do the same thing for ACDC but rather 3D print a stage that holds a screen.
I'll have it to show within the next couple of weeks. Its going to be pretty neat.
This will finally end the whole issue of no film clips.

But it will obscure the star map? Why would you want to lose that? It's integrated into the gameplay...

-1
#6670 6 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Ok just spent a good couple hours properly going over the machine. have not got to switches yet might be a lengthy post, I'm a attn to detail guy and a little ocd at times here goes wish me luck.
Lighting
#084 "not used" Lights left spinner
#090 "GI left flipper guide high" No light. do not see a place for light. there is a spotlight there
#119 "upper sling low" No light
#121 "right orbit jackpot" No light
#122 "Top POP Mystery" No light
#123 "Top Sling Mystery" No Light
#124 "mid POP Mystery" No light
#125 "Right Pop Mystery" No Light
#126 "Carina" No Light
#127 "Norrington" No light
#128 "Phillip" No Light
#140 "Upper playfield right spinner" green produces yellow and white produces pink
#164 "Jack" No green white is pink
#168 "Left lane spinner light" Not working Light up under #084
#181 "Chest Right" No light
#195 "Right pop inside" No Light
#197 " Lower pop inside" No Light
Coils
#021 Can hear it fire but seems like it takes 4-5 seconds for it to reset. Is probly nothing but worth noting
#041 "Barrel spinning pop bumper" not spinning hitting wire form
#047 and #048 seem like they do nothing during test "Mini PF Rocking motion and Relay" during gameplay ship is rocking do not think it is going through the full motion. full right pf is level mid is slightly left and left is way left.
#072 "Black Pearl cannon door lock" does not fire. door does not open during test game.
Other Issues out of box
Few spots with targets too close together
Wire loom binded from factory
ball shooter tip broke within 10 games
ball shooter inconsistent often rattles around wireform even with a almost full plunge
found a thumbscrew in bottom of cabinet and a plastic piece that I very loosly think is a piece of one of the optos (I do not know what the optos look like but there is writing on it that say opto
Nothing happens during fork test
monitor is sagging on right side
and just because I'm picky and on a rampage. Where in the hell is the attract music. The Jersey Jack rock music every 10 minutes or so isn't fun (well it is but there needs to be something else)
Needless to say I'm a teed off at this point dont even know where to start and cant really play until I figure out some of these issues. Shouldnt have these many issues out of the box.

$3700, and I'll pay to have it picked up.

#6672 6 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

I guess when its time to look for mods ill just skip over your website

Well, I'm not opposed to a little negotiation either, as long as you pick up, too.

#6699 6 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

I live in bumbfuck Ohio. Who would they ever send clear out here?

Bumb, looking for some guaranteed action.

#6711 6 months ago
Quoted from ngg:

New problem......
Occasionally on a ball drained sdtm, the game does not recognize that the ball is gone and goes into search mode for the ball. I’d estimate that this happens 30% of the time on center drains.
Also, possibly related, at times there are issues with balls moving into position from the ball trough to the shooter lane. This has happened a few times during multiball.

Stock balls? Did you check to see if they're magnetized?

#6715 6 months ago
Quoted from Lazar:

Game is 5 days old and broke an upper Playfield flipper rubber. From what I can tell this requires removal of the upper Playfield to get at. Is this true?
Thanks

Uh, no. You just stretch a new one on. This is instructions for superbands, but it's the same idea for regular flipper rubber, too:

#6717 6 months ago
Quoted from Lazar:

How do you get it around the thick part of the flipper without removing the part of the ship that covers it?

There are two nuts on top of the trim plastic on each flipper. Take the nuts off and pry the plastic trim up and off to get access to the flipper. Less than 5 minute job to do it all and put it back together.
Trim on, as it is from the factory
trim-on (resized).jpg

Remove the two nuts and pry it up on the flipper bat side to get it off (it was kind of tight on the posts)
trim-off (resized).jpg

#6728 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

So I do have to remove that cover from the silver box? I thought so. I'm pretty sure that's going to require removing the screen as well? .. as it's in front.
I guess this is what I meant by "not easy" ...
Appreciate it.
Also, this:
"As for the weak plunger, pull the plunger and let it snap - does the autoplunger fork jiggle? If so, it’s making contact and robbing your shooter power."
Sorry guys ... what exactly is the "fork" and I'm guessing I can do this while the machine is off.

If you look down through the opening that lets you see the spring on the plunger, there's a band over the top of the plunger, that's the part that kicks forward to auto-launch the ball. If it's hanging low or the plunger is a bit too high, the plunger can catch it as it moves forward, robbing the manual plunge of power. If you see it "jiggle" when you manually plunge, your plunger is probably nicking it and one or the other needs to be adjusted so they don't contact.

#6730 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Ah, got it. Thank you for the extra bit there. Umm.. as far as "looking through the opening" ... do I need to remove the glass and all that or should it not be necessary?

No, you should be able to clearly see if that bit through the opening is moving when the plunger is let go and moves forward rapidly, even with the glass on.

#6732 6 months ago

You can also slo-mo record it with a phone to see what may be happening, both from the front where the ball is, and through that slot over the spring of the plunger.

#6736 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Okay...
So the "fork" is essentially those metal things on both sides of the plunger?
When I pull back and let go or let it snap -- they are DEFINITELY moving ... both of them.

Then you need to loosen the three screws on your shooter rod plate and adjust it down (or if it won't go lower, shim the top side of the plate to aim the rod lower). There's also a chance the playfield hooks are bent a little and the PF is resting like 1mm too low, putting the auto plunge onto the shooter rod path. But that long-running problem that affected The Hobbit and Dialed In was supposedly fixed for PotC, so that may be the least likely.

#6742 6 months ago

Yeah, it's definitely hitting the auto launch part that runs over the top of it. So adjust the shooter plate down, or shim it. If neither of those work, try raising the PF like 1-2mm by shimming the hooks.

#6749 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I catch on quick - I PROMISE.
This is just new terminology..
"Shimming" the "hooks" ??

That should be the last thing you try after the other two fail.

Basically you want to loosen the two shiny steel playfield hooks (the things that hang on the receiver under the lockdown bar when you put the playfield down) where they connect under the playfield then put a shim between the hook and the playfield to raise the playfield up just a little, which will in turn raise the auto launch relative to the shooter rod because the shooter rod is attached to the cabinet and the auto launch is attached to the playfield.

#6806 6 months ago
Quoted from TZBen:

what kind of rubber is JJP installing these days? china brand X? or titan silicone?

Clear silicone bands, not sure what brand, but Titan wouldn't surprise me. Flippers are standard rubber.

#6852 6 months ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

For those that have switched the sling posts out for start posts, are you switching all 3 per side, or just 2 (top and bottom)?

I did the standard two star posts at the top and bottom of each sling and left the regular clear post in the back. There was some indentation into the PF from the factory post/clear washer combination, but no chipping on the PF there.

#6875 6 months ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

I’m not following you here. What clear post in the back?
So you did star posts on the slings top and bottom, but left the middle (outside) post Alone?
Pictures?

Yes, middle post on each side - the one away from the front of the slings I called "back".

#6902 6 months ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

VERY COOL looking!
I just wished it worked with the trigger ala TS, IJ, etc. as I'm not a big fan of the "feel" of bulky irregular shooter rod knobs.

This. Hard mounting these and wiring them to the auto launch switch so they worked like indy, shadow, etc would be awesome.

#6933 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Oh, nice work! Did you have to loosen or uninstall much to get it in there?

The Cliffy for The Depths edge is springloaded and just slides on and clips in place without removing anything.

#6979 6 months ago
Quoted from rs812:

How far behind is cliffy on shipping?

About a month last I heard...

#6985 6 months ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Fine, i'll buy a pin with powdercoat as long as the price isn't an "added value" to up the cost of the pin.

Powdercoating is in the class of mods you rarely get the money back out of when you sell the pin. May help it sell faster, but won't increase the sale price.

#6996 6 months ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Anybody know how much this machine weighs? I cant find that anywhere (though now that I think of it may be in the manual...)

HEAVY. Like 400lbs-ish. Basically almost as much as two Stern pros.

#7024 6 months ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

Turned on the machine today and got an error that said dauntless ship hit switch closed. I touched the ship and it cleared the error instantly. I'd like to believe this is because I'm now so accurate at sinkking the ship it hasn't triggered this switch for too long? Am I being optimistic?

It seems like it's a little optimistic about how many times people can hit that target so the error pops up when there's no problem other than it hasn't been hit in a while. That diagnostic might need to be loosened up in the code.

#7039 6 months ago

Got the front lighting bracket made for the skull topper so it pulsates with the plexi logo now (used a splitter on the 12v topper lead).

bracket.jpgjjpotc-topper.gif
#7059 6 months ago
Quoted from ellips6:

I need to advice on my chest fork, other than what has been suggested so far in this tread (the 2 little screws). I can make the chest shots when they are precise, about 7 times out of 10, but still a few shots bounce back when the ball is not at high speed and I see when these shots fail that the fork is moving (like loose) a bit but just on one side.
I unscrewed the fork, and checked that the 2 little screws under are very tight and they both are. Then I made a video, at first you see the left side of the fork that is not loose up/down at all and work perfectly, then you see the right side of the fork has some loose in it.
How can I make the right side of the fork as tight as the left side? Hope the video shows it good enough, the playfield is in the last service position (fully up side down).[quoted image]

You need that play so the fork can move freely. If it's like the one we got, the forks were directing the ball towards the left or right side of the chest entrance. Glass off, keep teeing up the ball and slo-mo record it from the front of the chest with a phone and see what the ball is doing when it's rejecting. Once I got the forks right (took a while because I over-corrected initially, sending the ball into the OTHER side of the entrance), I bumped the right flipper to 27 and it's great now - FINALLY. This was easily the worst part of dialing the machine in.

#7064 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

2. The iPhone accelerometers are not that accurate

Actually, because if the critical nature of medical software, the NIH published a study concluding that the iPhone accelerometer was "highly accurate and precise" with tiny deviations from their control device. Of course, that does NOT mean any given SOFTWARE program is accurate at INTERPRETING and presenting the information it provides.

Quoted from zaphX:

3. The stupid bump that iPhones have now keeps them from lying flat anyway.

A case solves that problem.

#7088 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

As a developer who has worked with the acclerometer, I can tell you it’s noisy and jittery and must be smoothed in software. That study was tracking user movement, not level accuracy.
Popular Mechanics -did- measure level accuracy:
https://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/gear/a4175/4308358/

Actually, popular mechanics is reviewing some apps that use it there, not the actual hardware. Has anyone reviewed the actual hardware?

#7090 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Well, I'm thinking my issues trying to get the playfield hooks into the apron has to do with the apron being offset itself and shifted, and one of the service rails being misaligned.

This reminds me to mention that it turns out you can't shim the Pirates playfield to fix the shooter rod hitting the auto launch top piece and fix shooter issues because the hooks on pirates attach from the TOP. I went to fix the issues on the one we have here and realized that. So bending the hooks back down then the ends out slightly is the only option. Also, these bent pretty easily, so I don't think the bending problem from playfield weight is fixed. These are very slightly reinforced as compared to prior hooks, but the metal still seems too soft, and the reinforcement doesn't resist the bending much.

#7098 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I’m having an alignment issue myself with the shooter contacting the autoplunger. I tried moving the shooter down as far as it would go, but it still contacts unless I rotate it slightly right which is not acceptable to me. I will look at the hooks, perhaps a bit of padding such that the playfield lays down slightly higher will do the trick?
I’m planning to mess with it more when I get home this afternoon.

You can shim where the hook hangs on the receiver using a small piece of metal to raise the PF, too. I just bent the hooks. Works great now. Same problem from Hobbit and Dialed In, essentially.

#7099 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Feel free to post photos. I'd like to see how things lie/are supposed to lie. I wish I could see another table upfront to note differences.
I've seen several people discuss the shooter having alignment issues.

It's not really an alignment issue in most cases I've seen. It's essentially playfield sag, lowering the top of the auto launcher into the path of the shooter rod, robbing it of energy. Bent the hooks, problem solved, just like Hobbit and Dialed In.

#7102 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

I wish my issue was just brushing the shooter rod. I can't wedge the hooks back in at all, no matter how I adjust the angle, press backwards, or shift the wire looms. The apron itself, for me, looks misaligned/not flush at all.

Your left hook looks like it's mis-mounted. It's WAY too far left. The gap on the left side of the left hook should be about the same as the right, but you have NO GAP, which is why you're probably having problems getting it to rest correctly. Unfortunately the hooks are t-nutted into the PF, so moving them is no simple task.

#7105 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

That's what I was figuring. The apron isn't flush against the shooter lane either. And even my right hook doesn't look flush with the playfield, it's sagging a bit. All of this would explain why I can't seat the playfield at all, yet alone with ease, and also having lockdown bar issues. I had to entirely remove the styrofoam braces just to let that sit against the glass.
Thank you for your thoughts.

Styrofoam "braces"? You mean the foam shipping blocks? Those are supposed to be removed. Did you take ALL of them out? From the manual:

potc-shipping-blocks (resized).jpg
#7109 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

I meant foam, as in the sticky tape under the lockdown bar.
All of the packing foam is removed. I was installing the map Cliffy's last night. Those are all long gone.

The two pieces of foam that go on the "prongs" came off the second time I put the lockdown bar on, and I never put them back on. The long piece is beer seal to trap out liquids and should stay on as it's an important function.

#7111 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

THIS could explain why I have some-what hell getting my playfield flush again when I seat it back in. I swear my pin doesn't have these in the back under the pf, but I'm gonna go check again...

There's one large block of foam screwed to the back of the cabinet inside, about 2/3 from the bottom.

#7121 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I *MAY* have a problem.
I was thinking that I could just rock the Dauntless to the side or w/e and it would clear this error.
Unfortunately, I'm unable to clear this error...
[quoted image]

Move the ship with your hand. The one here was rubbing on the back of the maelstrom whirlpool so it never fully closed the switch.

#7122 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I did not rock it in gameplay, but before starting a game.

=P

Might just ignore it for now .. haha .. I thought there was a switch specifically for the bullseye which I thought meant a ball going into the hole.
Either way, if you guys recall, I had two matrixed switch errors and just the one now. =)

There's one for the bullseye and one for hitting the ship and making it move, but not hitting the bullseys (a miss).

#7123 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Don't I feel stupid ...
Yea so I DEFINITELY wasn't expecting anything to be screwed as far as packing goes.
Still a newbie.
[quoted image]

Don't feel bad. I initially missed it until I RTFM and realized that maybe it wasn't supposed to be there after unpacking was completed.

#7127 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Yea so... that error is definitely still there.
I basically moved the dauntless to the left and let it just rock back into place at least 5-10 times ... with an actual game started.

If you go into switch test and rock it like it was hit with the ball, but not destroyed, does it trigger the switch?

#7130 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Uhh... testing!

BTW, the switch for this is easy to get to, it's behind the backboard at the bottom of the PF. If you can't make it happen with the ship, put your finger down there. The switch triggers when it RELEASES, not when it's depressed, so it may be too compressed and can't release enough to trigger without some bending or loosening and re-situating the switch mount.

#7135 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Thanks.
To confirm, it's UNDER the playfield?

Pull the playfield out to the second rubber feet. Look behind the backboard right behind the ship, almost at the bottom of the backboard. The switch is directly behind the ship on the back of the backboard. Move the ship and you can see the bar that's supposed to be easing up and releasing the switch so it registers.

#7136 6 months ago
Quoted from D_N_G:

Hi Guys, Joined the club today with LE 197 thanks to some peer pressure from kevinbuffalo
This is my first home pinball, have been an arcade guy in the past, so have some experience with wiring, pcbs, etc.
Having a couple of issues, and have a call in to the distributor, but figured Pinside might have some ideas?
1.) Have a Fork Malfunction/Device Broken error and balls wont lock in the chest
- Checked the suggested 2 screws to make sure they were tight
- Checked wiring under the play field for the fork mechanism and everything seems ok
- Individual coil tests will raise and lower the fork successfully
- The specific fork test itself will not work
- No balls will physically enter or lock in the chest, but screen animations show ball locks when hit through the middle chest shot
Anything else to check?
2.) Have a stuck closed switch #50 on the right high slingshot. It wont activate when depressed manually.
-Checked under playfield wiring and seems ok from a glance (no broken wires)
Read through every post in this thread in preparation. So far have done these checks/minor fixes:
- Cut some zip ties to give slack to the Black Pearl
- Subway post was there from the factory - Manufacture date was 1/21/2019
- Protected cabling behind dauntless
- Leveled to 6.5
[quoted image][quoted image]

You just need to re-gap that upper right slingshot's switch leaves. If you pull the rubber AWAY it should release the contact and make the switch register. The problem is the back leaf is too close to the front, so when the rubber's just at rest it's always making contact. Move the back leaf away so it's not making contact until the rubber is depressed.

On that test, it looks to me like the switch that detects forks are up is stuck on, so it always thinks they're up. What does switch test say? If it's always on, you need to adjust that switch so it changes when the forks come down.

#7141 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Hey,
So I guess audio clipping is "rare."
...Yay!

Did you play with the sound/fx/volume mixes from factory levels? That can cause it.

#7144 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

vireland
BING-O WAS HIS NAME-O
I see EXACTLY what you are referring to...
And when I moved the ship, the switch works!
So now I have a new fun problem.
It seems that it's only an issue when the playfield is actually in place... =/

You just need to either loosen the screws holding the switch on and rotate the switch body to give it more room so it "disconnects" easier when the bar moves away, or bend the roller leaf on the switch back towards the body of the switch so it registers the release easier.

In either case, it's a relatively easy switch adjustment.

#7150 6 months ago
Quoted from Titan_Pinball:

Some of the rubber is Titan. The flipper rubber is Suzo red rubber and some of the other rings might be regular rubber. If it's clear silicone, it should be Titan. Dialed In also came with white Titan rubber and Suzo red flipper.

Those flipper rubbers that come stock are GROSS. They look bad and feel yukky. Marco would give them better standard red rubber than whatever they're using.

#7165 6 months ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Sure would be nice if there was a separate JJP POTC tech issues thread. This club thread seems to be dominated by repeated issues - many of them from owners new to the hobby.
Doesn't make for lively gameplay/strategy discussions and leaves others with the impression that JJP POTC is nothing but problems.
Just sayin'.

Suggested that a few pages back. Shot down.

#7185 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Probably.
People have talked about doing it.
Do you already have the mylar for it?
I wish I did...

Get a bulk sheet of Mylar from marco specialties. Then you can cut mylar for anything and everything on demand.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/66-MFT

I think I bought like 3-4 feet years ago and still have some left.

#7187 6 months ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Yes ... thanks. I have already studied and know the rules pretty well though.
I've been hoping to find a livelier discussion of strategies and shared gameplay experiences more typical of other club threads. I don't mean to be overly negative, but while somewhat informative, this one is a downer.
Ok - rant off. I hope all Pirates owners get to fully enjoy their game soon!

My main advice is play multiplayer a LOT. Plundering is GREAT fun.

#7197 6 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Yup...that was two hours of pure fun. Lol. Both map Cliffys not installed and everything is put back together. Wife is sleeping now so still need to test in the morning.
Yeah that far rear nut for the plastic was a pain. I used a socket with a flexible extension on it like this one. One of these comes in really handy a times.

The right tool for that job:
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/43916329

(those might be 11/32 back there, but this is the tool type...)

You can get something like this for under $10 at Sears or maybe even harbor freight.

#7271 6 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Have you resorted to replying and answering your own posts now? Lol.

I've done that. Notification functionality can be evil.

#7275 6 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Would you guys say that the permanent fix for the shooter rod catching the auto plunger is adding weather stripping under the hooks? Really?

Or bending the hooks. You only need about 1-2mm more height. I just bend the hooks, because the reason it's low in the first place is the hooks likely bent down a bit from the weight, just like Hobbit and Dialed In.

12
#7276 6 months ago

I started a tech/troubleshooting/issues thread for PotC here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues#post-4933795

I'll be filling it out with information and curating it into the first post with links organized by type to make searching easier than a key post index.

If you've posted tech tips, feel free to re-post there with info and pics and I'll pull your information into the curated index, too.

#7279 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ it’s what I tried, as they didn’t look bent to me and it worked.

You can do it either way. Shim the area where the hooks connect, or bend the hooks. On earlier machines where the hooks connected UNDER the playfield you could shim the hook bracket to raise the playfield out of sight. Now that the hooks connect from the top side of the playfield, adding a shim where the hook bracket meets the playfield has the opposite effect - it lowers the playfield even more, which no one wants.

#7341 6 months ago
Quoted from lapean111:

Anyone have anymore ideas for balls getting stuck in the depths during multiball? My game has the factory fix, and balls get stuck down there almost every single multiball. Sometimes I have to manually plunge the kicker with my finger to get the balls out.
I have tried increasing the strength, but this has no effect on the balls getting stuck.

The one here doesn't have this problem. Have you checked in switch test mode to make sure the switches or optos (whatever is down there) are registering that the ball is there?

#7346 6 months ago
Quoted from roddog:

Does anybody know if it is possible to buy a black pearl ramp? I cracked mine by fastening it in to tight I guess. A screw on the slingshot below was touching the ramp and it made a small crack in it. So don't do that!

Yeah, that screw under the ramp should have been a mini post (I might still make it one...). On the one we have the screw is pressing up into the ramp and has started to deform it.

#7371 6 months ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

How is the HMS Dauntless removed from the playfield? Any guides in relation to that?

The whole thing, or just the non-moving top? There aren't currently pictures of that, but there will be. I just need to finish getting everything in...

#7397 6 months ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

Still don’t understand why they packed it up on pirates. WOnka looks nice but it ain’t no pirates.

I think they were beaten down from a year of delays, disc-gate, trunk-gate and the lost orders as a result. The irony is, once it was in the wild and word got around how fantastic jjPotC is, demand was picking up. They cut bait too soon. But if this is what it takes to get us to JJP Guns and Roses on schedule, I'm good.

#7400 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

So I probably have a wire issue on the left BP flipper .. =/
I loosened and tightened the nut, but I wouldn't expect a "loose" flipper to have 0 movement.
Also when I lift that left BP flipper up, it's for some reason locking in that up position.

Are you doing this with the power off? If it's sticking up when you lift it manually and the power is off, you have a physical, likely mechanical issue, not an electrical one.

#7411 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Perhaps a bit too loose ... =D
As a side ... the left flipper isn't sticking anymore! =P
I feel silly. I should be intelligent enough to put 1 + 1 together. I am learning that there is a "bit more" to it then just that nut.
Sighs... back to it!
[quoted image][quoted image]

So it just wasn't tightened to the flipper shaft enough? Easy solution. When you put it back on, make sure you have about a dime's thickness of play if you pull the flipper straight up and release it. If it's too tight to the playfield, it can bind also. You want a smidge of movement up and down if you pull up on it.

#7422 6 months ago