Quoted from Pdxmonkey:Luck of the draw, I didn’t have any problems with Potc
Same here. I feel for the people with issues, but mine worked 100% right out of the box. Absolutely incredible pin!
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Quoted from Pdxmonkey:Luck of the draw, I didn’t have any problems with Potc
Same here. I feel for the people with issues, but mine worked 100% right out of the box. Absolutely incredible pin!
This game is incredible, nothing more to say. The family is out of town this weekend so I was able to put some serious time on it. A couple things I noticed...
Anyone get to the “666” mode, or whatever you want to call it? Massive stacked Multiball where I think had every Multiball going, and I may have collected all of the SP’s. All of a sudden over the whole screen “666” floated over all the Multiball flags, but not sure what I did to activate it.
I’ve been lucky, and haven’t had any issues with my pin except for a “pearl left flipper EOS error” like the earlier poster. I haven’t had to make one repair, just some small adjustments here and there, but the EOS switch error is throwing me for a loop. I looked it over and everything seems fine, even pulling the pearl to make sure I didn’t have a wire break off. Not sure where to go from here, but at least it doesn’t stop play.
Lastly, if I had one complaint it would be the noise from the spinning disk. I think they’re mod1 pinions which are pretty common in the rc world. One of my huge speed helis has the same metal to metal gear, and we use a lubricant called “dry fluid extreme”. It dries almost like a grease, but when applied is liquid form so it gets in all the nooks. It made a huge difference on the lower rpm spins, and took away rattling noise during high speed spins. It didn’t take away all the noise, but did a great job making it just a bit quieter and calming the loudest of spins. I’ll post the lubricant info when I get home if anyone is interested.
Overall, absolutely having a blast. It’s always a tough pill to swallow when buying a JJP machine as they are so darn expensive, but I haven’t been disappointed yet by the final product. They are 4 for 4 in my house, and I can’t wait to see what they come out with next.
Quoted from LesManley:It does that when you get all 5 multiballs and Tortuga stacked together.
Thanks!
Quoted from dnaman:Can you take a picture of the coil and EOS area on the left?
I was at a friend's last night I helping to resolver one of the grounds from a switch and he has the same EOS error, it was in fact the top wire (Black/Orange) that was off. Resoldered and up she went.
That said, he sure did have a number of things that needed doin'. From the BP' broken wires (zip ties pulling wires too tight), to loose screws in the BP VUK and Mystery hole reflector, to slightly moving and securing the wires/harness between the GOLD targets, to a 'new to me' issue; ball trough ball stalls/hangups.
He is checking this today to see if it might be magnetism
Sure, I’ll pull it again tomorrow and recheck. I will say on every JJP game I’ve had I had trough issues. 95% of the time it’s been magnetized balls. Heck, with JJP stock balls, my woz would had a 50% success rate after 50 plays. It was crazy how fast they magnetized. If it was me, the first thing I would try would be a new set, because the stock JJP balls have been notoriously bad for me. I actually have a gauss meter and could test the magnetic strength tomorrow afternoon and see how bad they are, because my POTC trough has gotten flakier little by little over the last 100 games.
Quoted from LTG:https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809 Cures magnetized ball issues.
LTG : )
Thanks! Will give it a shot!
Quoted from evh347:Are both upper flippers supposed to be even when triggered at the flippers? (both are being held at the time of this pic)
[quoted image]
You need to tighten the nut that holds the flipper shaft in place. One of mine did the same thing, and I moved it into the correct position by hand then tightened the nut that clamps down on the shaft. It’s a little difficult on the right side of the ship, but if you pull the cotter pin in the back it’s doable without removing the ship.
Quoted from arcadem:I used to restore antique (1930's-1950) Wulitzer and RockOla jukeboxes and an old mechanic told me to use white lithium grease on the moving parts of the mechanisms. I did that and after a couple of years the white lube turned into a gummy compound that caused the mechs to freeze up. I had to tear down all of the mechs where I had used it, remove the offending grease, and relube with gun oil which worked like a charm. I guess I could do the same (gun oil) on my pinball gears but I am going to try the dry lube approach and see how it works. But, I will never use white lithium grease again. I know many swear by white grease; I swear at it. Best of luck to you.
This was always the problem with high end rc helis and the gears attracting dirt. Most everyone that has metal to metal gears uses the dryfluids because it’s drys on the gear, but doesn’t become “sticky”, but also doesn’t sling off. Here is the link to their webpage, and you have to get the “dryfluids extreme gear” one.
https://www.dry-fluids.com/dryfluid-gear-lube-1.html
Just to temper expectations, it doesn’t remove all the noise, but it definitely made it quieter, and also got rid of that terrible rattling at high speed. The most important part was the lack of attracting debris, since in the past things have gotten worse quickly after applying lubes that got sticky. I also use it on my bike, and some other things around the house that I would typically get a application of grease. It came out about 3 years ago and has been really popular ever since.
Can anyone confirm the wiring on my black pearl switches? I had a wire come off the switch, and has a EOS error, so i decided to pull the black pearl. When i finally got it into position, I had two more wires broken. I didn’t realize they were daisy chained until I cut the ziptie. It seems to me to be wired together correctly and I don’t see anymore issues, but all three aren’t registering now (9,10 and 12). Attached is an image of how it’s wired. If anyone familiar with it can confirm if I have it done correctly, it would be appreciated. Also, if someone has images of how theirs is laid out I can probably confirm against that as well. I also let a green and white wire make contact, but not sure if there is any fuses associated with these sets of switches. Any guidance would be appreciated!
D65B2473-B4AC-46F5-A2A8-39E21E18C46B (resized).jpegQuoted from Yelobird:Ok your timing is well placed. While not Horrible I do find the disk a Bit to loud for my liking so in typical Mod Couple fashion I decided to investigate a bit further to see if there could be a user friendly solution. This issue is actually a combination problem. The plastic to plastic gear mesh is both loose and the gear floats which creates the known loud grinding sound. Second, that sound is basically transmitted to what technically a plastic Drum! The large disk amplifies the sound like a speaker which makes it a bit more pronounced. While I would (and could) make a new drive gear or possibly a rubber drive roller I wanted to try something slightly less costly and easier to implement. Soooo, I created a precision waterjet insert kit similar to what is used in automotive to sound dampen noise issues. Second, a precision snap in shim was created to the plastic drum floats less and now can ride on a plastic (wear resistant) shim instead of the bronze bushing. This allows a light layer of Lithium grease between the two. At this time I am testing the kit on my machine and it is much quieter. NOT silent just improved! Rather simple install took me 15 minutes or so. In conjunction with some light Lithium grease it appears to be a low cost solution. Not looking to get rich on these just trying to help out with an annoying problem. I will have these on our website this weekend for my estimate around $10 (buy your own grease!). Again, this mechanism will Never be a Swiss watch just trying to make it a bit less annoying. lol Hope some find this useful let me know if you have any questions.
The Mod Couple
www.TheModCouplePinball.com
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
This is 100% the ideal solution.
Edit: thought they were metal gears simply from the amount of noise, but they are definitely plastic. Hopefully your mod helps because it’s my only real complaint about the pin. Nice work!
Quoted from Yelobird:Ok appreciate the kind words but possibly something was lost in translation. The gears JJP used Are plastic and that is the issue!! They are not metal or grease would have 100% been the solution. This kit reduces the noise though I want everyone to know I am also working on a Replacement drive gear that will have the same arbor core only the teeth will be neoprene. That Should 100% eliminate the drive train noise along with this sound dampening kit. As this is a low friction drive I believe this replacement will last a LONG time. I promise to do this but Know it is not on my plate today so no need to PM lol. I am Hoping to have this done over the holidays. We Will get these amazing ships sailing swiftly and Silently to the next adventure!!! aghhhhhh
The Mod Couple
Damn, you’re def right. I just have never seen a plastic gear that loud, it literally whines like a metal straight gear. Why didn’t they use a helical or delrin gear? Plus the mod 1 pitch seems slightly overkill for the application, but I guess you don’t have too many gears making a Quick transitions like this does. Hopefully your mod helps with the noise because it’s my only real complaint about the pin, otherwise it’s pretty perfect.
Quoted from zaphX:ltg nothing visibly broken or not soldered in place. Those three switches just straight don’t work.
The rest of the machine appears fine. Had a minor adjustment to the 2x stand up. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Cut the ziptie and look further down the line. All three of those targets are daisy chained together and if the wire is broken somewhere in the bundle of ziptied wires (like mine was) then they won’t register at all. I think it’s the green and brown wire, but not 100% on the color
Quoted from zaphX:Wait, you had a broken wire -inside- the zip tied bundle?
Was your behavior the same, these 3 specific switches failing?
Yes, and finally found that it was a broken wire inside the the bundle of wires. Once I cut all the zip ties i easily found it and all three of those targets started working.
Quoted from zaphX:Thank you procrastinator, kingpingames, ltg and wheels !
You nailed it. Once we got the Pearl off (had to cut some zip ties to do this) the problem was indeed the green/brown wire on the gold spot target.
Once we soldered this in place everything worked great!
I feel very happy that we were able to get the game working on delivery day for my good pirate friend.[quoted image]
Glad to hear!
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