Adjust the coil power on the mystery kickout, or else angle the snubber bracket just slightly differently, or both. I turned mine down so that it kicks more softly and comes to the right flipper most of the time.
Adjust the coil power on the mystery kickout, or else angle the snubber bracket just slightly differently, or both. I turned mine down so that it kicks more softly and comes to the right flipper most of the time.
Styrofoam is for shipping purposes only, to keep the heavy playfield from pulling too hard on the hangar brackets on the front of the playfield and to try to minimize playfield movement while in transit.
The more chapters you have qualified before you enter the chapter start area, the higher the multiplier for the shots in the chapter will be.
At Worlds End is qualified by making all nine big red arrow shots around the playfield once. When you hear the long speech call about “nine pieces of whatever we happen to have” or “the original plan was to use nine pieces” then you’ll know it’s ready to start at the left ramp. In general, qualifying a multiball is not done by playing a chapter. For Black Pearl you have to finish the ship sequence, for On Stranger Tides you have to make upper loop shots and so forth.
Download the 0.97 full install and unetbootin, follow the full install instructions, install that starting from power off as a full install, then once that's done and the game is running again, do the 0.98 delta and install that on top using the utilities menu as a delta update.
Quoted from delt31:
So what is the right way to update code to .98? Want to ensure I don't make the same mistake
Download the full install 0.97 iso file first, use unetbootin or rufus to make the stick (instructions and link on the JJP site). Full install 0.97 first. If you want to save your settings and high scores before you start, use a different usb stick and do a settings backup first. The do the 0.97 full install, then once your done, do the 0.98 delta on top of it, then put your settings back in using the utilities menu and restore backup.
At the beginning of the game the machine selects 5 of the 25 chapters in each movie that you could play during that game. The skulls are the shots on the playfield that qualify the chapter for each movie and they are color coded. The skull value is raised by hitting that color shot when no chapter is going. Green is the chest shot so the skull value starts at 1000 and then is boosted slightly by each green skull shot while no chapter is going. You can hold you skull values by hitting the depths one at a time or by mystery awards. The whole mess is multiplied when you start a chapter by how many chapters you had qualified when you started a new chapter by hitting the Jack shot (starfield). So say you had all 5 skull shots hit before you started a chapter. So then your value of arrow (character) shots in that chapter is whatever your skull value had built up to of whatever color movie you started. You’ll see mystery awards that will add 1250 to green skull for example. Then that skull value is multiplied during the chapter you start by 2.5x if you had 5 qualified chapters and less if less qualified. So skull value means a lot if you can build it, then possibly hold it over, then start a chapter with 4 or 5 qualified and then if you happen to get a chapter with 10 characters available, for example, each shot will be worth, say, a skull value of for example 2500 x 2.5x if you had 5 qualified times 10 if you collect all ten available plus your completion bonus. (Drink some coffee, walk around, it can get complex). So if the skull is in the fourth box from the left on the row, that just means you’ll start whatever chapter the game has chosen for that spot if you start a chapter and it lands on that colored movie. Regardless, you have to play 5 from that movie to progress towards qualifying that movie’s wizard mode.
Switch 24 has nothing to do with the ship on the left. I’m going to take a chance that possibly you mean switch 48 target ship hit is giving an error as stuck closed? No taking apart anything about it if that’s the case. The switch itself is a micro switch and it’s located down below on the back panel in the left hand corner. So you would pull the playfield forward a bit to the second set of feet and then walk up to the left side of the game so you could look down in there. There’s a long bar with a spring that pushes the switch closed when the ship is hit by the ball fired out of the cannon. But before you even pull the playfield forward, just do this: slide off the glass, move the dauntless ship from left to right with your hand. It doesn’t move that far. If you bring up either the test report showing the error or the matrixed switch test and then move the ship and trigger the switch and the switch actually works, the error will go away. Perhaps the ship was hit and moved left and got stuck and failed to return to its normal rest position and is thus holding the switch closed. Moving it back will open the switch again. See if the game recognizes the switch when you move it from left to right and back again.
The other switch I’m thinking you may mean that is associated with the ship on the left is target ship bullseye which is switch 79. This is an opto and is then normally closed. If that’s giving an error as stuck closed, perhaps it just hasn’t been hit in awhile. Remember that the game thinks it’s in a bar or bowling alley or commercial location where it is getting heavy play. If the software doesn’t see a particular switch hit for a period of balls played, it flags the switch as potentially stuck or broken to alert the operator to check it out. In the case of target ship bullseye, that switch is hit only when the cannon shot goes into the hole in the side of the target ship. So if you have younger kids, inexperienced players or worst of all, say, ME playing the game, many games could go by with no one successfully hitting that opto and the game then diligently reports it as needing to be checked. What you can do is slide the playfield glass off, start a game and when the ball is served to the plunger, open the door and go into test mode to the error report or switch test, leave the door open and physically pick up the pinball and toss it into the hole as if you had made the cannon shot perfectly. That will hit the opto and if it works correctly, the error will clear itself. If when you go into matrixed switch test that box 79 is red, breaking the opto beam with the ball will take the red away assuming the switch actually works. I’d do that before taking things apart.
Hope that helps.
Okay Delt31 sorry - no, the multiplied value comes from how many chapters you have qualified before you hit chapter start. If you notice while playing but with no chapter running yet, when you make a skull shot - say the red one on the left ramp, the flap on the illustration will flip up and eventually a chapter name will appear, but as the graphic is displaying you will see “shoot starfield” and chapter shots 2x (or almost that exact text) based on how many other colored skull shots you have made at least once since the last chapter ended. However many flaps are up and chapter names are displayed, that’s how much the multiplier of the skull value will be when you actually start one of the chapters. The position of the skull on the row of five boxes just indicates, as far as I know (are you there hogbog? Keefer?) which of the five pre-selected by the game before you started plunging the first ball chapters from the pool of 25 from each movie that will actually play when you make chapter start/starmap/starfield/Jack. The multiplier doesn’t change based on which box the skull is in for whatever colored movie, the skull value for that colored skull isn’t affected by which box the skull is sitting in, all the position of the skull represents is which of the five chapters from that movie the game will choose next should the magnet flinging the ball around stop on, say, red. For points scoring, it does “matter” which box the skull is in only in the sense that even though the starting skull value isn’t affected and the multiplier for number of qualified chapters isn’t affected by which box it’s sitting in, if does represent a different actual chapter and if the actual chapter you end up starting is one with two characters to collect as opposed to 6 or ten available, then your scoring potential during that chapter is much more or less overall but the skull value, base line of 1000, built by making that skull’s shot with no chapter running, hold-able by the depths or mystery award from ball to ball, the chapter multiplier, increased by qualifying more chapters before you actually start a chapter (so can be as few as 1 chapter or as many as 5 qualified at the time, which under NORMAL circumstances would be 1x - 1.5x -2x and so on UNLESS you are Tia Dalma or perhaps Norrington and we need those guys for the math breakdown as I didn’t graduate from the Keefer school if You’ve Got To Be Kidding Me rulesets because I partied too much instead of studying) - those things are NOT affected by which box the little skull icon is sitting in. That just represents which of the pre-selected 5 chapters is coming next if that movie’s chapter is the one that is started the next time a chapter starts. Did that help? Yeah... I didn’t think so...
So for example, say you start with the red skull left ramp. You shoot the ramp once, chapter is qualified, chapter name pops up skull is in the far left box. Say that chapter to be is Fireworks. Still no chapter running yet. Shoot red skull ramp again, skull icon moves one box to the right, chapter to be played now changes to Downright Disrespectful. Well the number of characters in that scene - that is, the number of characters to be collected in that chapter does not change - that’s tied to the movies so whomever was in that scene in the movie is available to be collected in that chapter once it’s running. And THAT aspect of the game does not change as I said from game to game because it’s true to the movie scenes. SO if I know from playing before that Downright Disrespectful has more character arrow shots available (thus more multiplied skull values) than other chapter I could be playing from At Worlds End movie, then it benefits me when I have my red skull value jacked and multiple chapters ready, to be sure I start Downright Disrespectful rather than chapter x if possible for the scoring potential. So in that sense the particular box that the skull is in does matter to me because I can read the title of the upcoming chapter in the big window and if there is a particular one that I know has mega characters to collect, I wouldn’t want to shoot the left ramp again and move the skull icon away from that chapter that I’d really like to start instead. If I’m Tia Dalma I can select it with the gold button when I hit chapter start to guarantee I play it rather than have it be random, which is nice, but the trade off is that she severely nerfs the points I’ll actually get for each shot.
Game delivered right before Christmas by the designer and his distributor brother in person(s).
Now THAT is galactic dancing!
Zaphx- check the opto control board under the playfield. Create some vibration and see if the cannon loaded opto is flaky. Unplug then replug the opto at the control board to make sure it’s seated properly. Ship should rock when cannon is loaded.
Mine usually lands at 6 as the slowest speed but I’ve seen 6-10 and I don’t believe there is a correlation.
Quoted from zaphX:
I finally fixed my issue with the cannon! Recapped here in its entirety:
SYMPTOM: Frequently (but intermittently) the cannon shot would fail to move up and down, instead freezing in place. Also noticed that the ship calibration could not get single digit speeds, seeming to lose steam around 12-14.
DIAGNOSIS: Running the ship test seemed to work fine at higher speeds. Initially I took this to mean there were no physical issues with the ship movement. On closer examination, it felt like the ship wasn’t listing to the left as much as it should. I pulled the playfield into the service position and repeated the test where I could now see the motor assembly was bending upon each revolution:
The reason for this was the adjustment bar which set set to the full topmost extent. This was causing the pin that moves the ship to halt against the top of the slot in the wood, causing the motor to press down and bend its bracket in order to keep moving.
FIX: After adjusting the screws to allow full range of movement, the ship now freely operates:
Additionally, the calibration test is now able to run all the way down to 4.
I am very happy to have this issue resolved, which is my last open problem with the game.[quoted image][quoted image]
Well done Sir. Nicely solved. We were just discussing your issue amongst us and you got it.
Different style of mechs for coins - sometimes electronic mechs which can be setup for different sized European currency.
Wheels - is the front blade of the leaf switch catching on the ramp above? If so, snip a little bit off of the top of the front blade so it can’t touch and it won’t get stuck back anymore.
Oh okay - well you can nip the top of that one off so it can’t catch on the ramp and that should solve it. It’s been done on other Pirates games for the same reason. It’s tight under there as you can see.
Yeah snips / diagonal cutters whatever. It’s not an uncommon thing - they try to catch that at the factory but obviously sometimes they get out with a blade a shade too long.
Error log is really only useful to the programmers. It helps them when diagnosing bugs in the code.
For 48 target ship hit, the actual microswitch itself is down on the bottom of the back side of the back panel but you don’t even need to pull the playfield forward to see if it works. Just grab the bow of the dauntless (the target ship) and move it from right to left and back again while in matrix switch test. When you move the target ship left the switch should close and when you move it back to the right (to it’s resting position), the switch should reopen again.
703 oversees 710 and 711 IIRC. If 703 is blown you won’t get red LEDs on 710 or 711 even if 710 and 711 are still good fuses
Yeah 703 oversees (if you will) 712 also. That’s the other 20v dc line although on pirates that one is only used for one thing and the blue group isn’t used at all. But the connectors at J110 and J112 pin 1 should be sending the 20vdc out to the playfield.
Very nice find. A remarkable coincidence of timing it seems since the problem started after your improbable chest airball hit. Next thing I was thinking was to see if the low power AC was getting there at all (J702), but it didn’t seem likely that anything like that would have changed based on what you were describing. Very nicely done, Sir
Hurry up as in the Pirate lanes award? Score starts counting down on the apron monitor and you have to hit the collect pirate award standup before it reaches zero.
Ah okay. I know Paul well myself. He’s a good dude. We played in league together years ago and we talked the other day as he was working on a Hobbit. He told me he was getting a game at the factory for someone on Tuesday. Good choice by you. Small world.
It’s added to the available pirate lane awards after four are collected unless you’re Davy Jones then it’s available right away pretty much
Increase chest release fire time in coil settings. Make sure trip plate is adjusted closely enough to magnetic tip on release coil to allow it to be pulled open enough to allow balls to drop out.
Everybody is still working together, although David is no longer there as you said. Pat has another design coming as does Eric of course. Some great stuff coming along behind Pirates so hopefully it will be fun going forward.
Adjust up the screw on the very bottom of the assembly. It’s for making the top of the post flush with the playfield surface. If it backs off or falls out the plunger drops too far away and the coil can’t reliably lift it. Thus intermittent behavior.
Pirates could be produced again later so it’s not necessarily over for good. Also, Hobbit main production run was 10 months basically (with very short runs after that to add a few more Black Arrows) so this is not unheard of at all. DI main run was extended longer than anticipated while Pirates was getting ready for production also, otherwise it would have been shorter for sure.
If that were to happen it would just be run again with the license on it as it is.
Wiggle connectors on trough boards with trough empty in matrix switch test. Create some vibration see if you get any false trough readings
To test bullseye switch 78 - bring up test report or switch matrix test and drop a pinball into the hole on the side of the dauntless (target ship).
The bonus screen black backgrounds are a known thing that I believe Keith is addressing in the next code update. I didn’t see them on my game until I turned off the protips but I’m not certain if the two things are related. The other situation I hadn’t heard about before.
Unplug the headphone jack harness from the bottom right corner of the motherboard. You have to do it there - not from the front board by the door. Unplug at motherboard, leave unplugged, play game and evaluate then
Quoted from PanzerFreak:
You may need a group loop noise isolator. JJP included them with some of their past games but doesn't with their latest (not sure on Pirates). If you are having sound popping / crackling issues it can help. JJP may send you one for free as long as it's under warranty. If not they are fairly cheap on Amazon.
amazon.com link »
GLIs are installed in all Pirates games at the factory. They are usually mounted in the upper corner of the backbox.
Make sure the adjustment screw on the bottom of the post bracket is in place and that the post is flush to the playfield when down. Make sure the plunger slides smoothly through the hole and isn’t knocked off center or dragging or rubbing going through.
They’re still building pirates at the factory. Nothing wrong with “to be built” as of now.
That could be but the parts are coming in. I could be wrong of course but no orders have been cancelled
Well I think - and I’m just thinking out loud here - that the moment would have come a few months ago when they would have reached the level of orders to exhaust all the expected parts. Since these things are not ordered piecemeal in general, at that point you say “okay, will we get enough orders going forward to justify a full re-order of a large quantity of everything?” If at that point the thought is possibly not or Do we have time or whatever the case, then you don’t refresh all the POs and do it all again. If you want to do that now, it’s not practical any more owing to the lead time for large quantities of parts to keep the line running. So now where you need stuff for whatever reason to finish the production run, you order it. Obviously I’m way over simplifying but I believe that’s what goes on.
Pirates already has a ground loop isolator installed by the factory (unless it got missed). Go over the audio connections up there and make sure everything is plugged in tightly.
Unplug the headphone harness from the motherboard end - not the front headphone jack - and see if that changes what you are hearing.
Quoted from arzoo:
Agreed. My biggest complaint about the callouts is when a chapter is completed - no callout or visual, it's like a non-event.
And while on the subject of the chapters, that code could use improvement (imo). As it stands, they seem to be nothing more than a time-suck on the way to wizard modes. I'm not saying it's not fun to shoot for all the characters, but they seem undervalued score wise. And you don't even need to complete them! It would have been so much more challenging and satisfying getting to a mini-wizard if you had to complete the 5 chapters (redoing any you missed).
He says "chapter complete" when you finish one. It can get drowned out by other sounds.
That’s also about right I think. Wonka should be on the line in May I think not sure exactly what date.
Post helper when certain conditions are met. This behavior is modified somewhat in the next code version which will be releasing soon. Keefer can comment further.
I think that’s what it’s called - the post blocks the orbit to try to feed the upper flipper so that you can make the upper loop or map hole.
Yes that post - code calls for it to raise at times to try to feed the upper flipper.
Email Jen and ask to join the JJP owners google group. She can send you an invite.
As the game goes on and you visit the Pearl more and more, “the seas get rougher” and the Pearl will rock farther and faster. Cotton slows it down and calms the seas.
Make sure that loop entry opto isn’t wobbly where it plugs into the bracket. I’ve seen 2 that were.
at TPF Eric also alluded to Keith's health issues slowing things down a bit. Rest assured, more is coming after the release of 0.99. Keith posts here so I am not trying to speak for him of course.
With the Devil’s Triangle it is largely irrelevant at the moment because there are almost none in stock and none on order.
It makes sense - production ended, what was left of stock shifted to customer service stock since Pirates is done with a D, there weren’t many left a few sold, now there are a scant few for stock in case. No more will be ordered by the factory going forward.
0.99 defaults to balls in reserve rather than the traditional extra ball behavior we all grew up with - as a full install 0.99 would have reset that setting on your game - and on balls in reserve the shoot again light behaves differently.
That connector does not connect to anything. Try your GLI in place of that one see if it helps.
Under the left edge of the chapter start magnet area. If you can rotate the rubber a bit in place it will probably solve it.
If we are talking manuals, it sounds like some cross-purpose talk is happening here. POTC CE models came with printed manuals, although the first few tables made it out the door without them and then the manuals were sent on after from the factory. It sounds like Jack was thinking Wonka, which is a very different situation. First off all, only bits and pieces of what will become the manual exist right now and the engineers are working on assembling the remainder of it. Also, Wonka LEs and SEs are not getting printed manuals (unlike DI but exactly like Pirates), and right now I believe that the Wonka CE manual question is still not decided. I THINK - and I reserve the right to be wrong - that the manual will not appear in print form at least not at the outset - it will be as all our manuals are, always free on our website. I believe that is what is happening. Wonka LE machines are on the line now along with standards.
Quoted from arcadem:
Thanks for your elucidation. I asked Jack and (and also Jenn) specifically about WONKA CE manuals. Jenn told me a month ago she did not know if they would be included and Jack last week told me that it was an open issue for the CE's still but some form of manual, maybe not 'printed', would be made available. You are right about the history of the printed manual. Included with my WOZRR and my Hobbit BA but I had to pay for one for my POTC LE; I don't have DI so I don't know what happened there. They have been gradually cut back and now it looks possible that they may be gone completely even for CE's and no one is sure if they will even be available in print form as a separate purchase. I was told by others at JJP to let the 'powers' know if you want printed manuals to continue. I for one do and that is why I contacted Jack about the issue.
Butch who writes the manuals as well as all the tech support guys have been lobbying hard for manuals to continue in their current style at least as an option, although the printed manual is a 2-edged issue for this reason: Butch routinely updates the manuals on the website - WOZ for example got a manual update to reflect the YBR edition when it came out - whereas the printed manuals are essentially frozen in time. We sold out of all Hobbit printed manuals and lobbying efforts to have more printed have so far failed, although I think if there is enough demand they will authorize a small run. Black Arrow was the only model of Hobbit to get the printed manual, 75th WOZ it was offered as an incentive, DI LE and CE customers got printed manuals, POTC CE only but everybody gets access to Butch's manual on line which is most important as he puts a ton of time and effort into making it as nice as can be.
Quoted from RTS:
How do you know RGB boards can't be swapped into an SE? Have you tried it?
Page 349 of the manual says the only difference in lighting is on the boards - RGB vs White. The software is the same.
The lighting is all described in the manual here:
Hey by all means do what you want. I'm not the mod police or whatever. It doesn't work as far as I know but I'm not telling you what to do.
Quoted from gumnut01:
Well the cynic in me says that they updated code to sell off the parts in their black arrows. There is no incentive to make pirates better once they finish the final wizard. I don’t really expect that much more. It is pretty damn good for me as it is. It’s always is nice to get more, it depends on the company’s focus I guess. This is the first game they only did a 6 month run of and then stated bluntly on pinside that they would never produce anymore. Add to that the limited license. Look on the bright side, you’re not stuck with no support like alien or TBL. Anyway just happy I have one and looking forward to 1.0.
This is funny, at least the first part. Good funny I mean. People want more Black Arrows to be made, and who knows, maybe one day it will happen. Not anytime soon but you never know. Pirates got a code update on April 23 so a shade more than 3 months ago. I'm sure there is another one coming at some point.
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