(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!

By goren1818

6 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

20 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #222 Liar's Dice rules explained! Posted by goren1818 (5 years ago)

Post #644 Rules flow chart Posted by Rbviessman (5 years ago)

Post #1021 How to fix black pearl lamps Posted by Yelobird (5 years ago)

Post #1360 Black Pearl flippers are uneven when in upper position - Fix Posted by evh347 (5 years ago)

Post #2468 Hardware fix for balls getting hung up during multiball. Posted by Pinballpal (5 years ago)

Post #2892 Adjustment for auto plunger not hitting balls cleanly or correctly Posted by Pinballpal (5 years ago)

Post #3974 Deadflip stream from Valentine’s Day 2019. Posted by Tuna_Delight (5 years ago)

Post #4014 POTC trouble shooting guide Posted by zaphX (5 years ago)

Post #4856 Possibly let distributor go through machine and get it tuned in. Posted by dgposter (5 years ago)

Post #6315 Fix for dauntless positioning, canon shots not landing Posted by Yelobird (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#12402 4 years ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

Hi guys. I just got my POTC LE all fully moded and it’s just the greatest pin ever to me. Some of the mods are not well known so I wanted to let those of you who don’t know about them see some of them. HarryHoudini’s company makes the coolest stickers to put on many targets and they really add to the theme. For example, I couldn’t stand the mirror diamond reflectors on the three spinners. He makes stickers that fit the theme and really add to the completeness look of your playfield.

What mod do you have on the deck of the Dauntless? Kinda looks like the Mezel Mods one but nicer.

#12404 4 years ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

If you mean the top deck above the spinners it is from Mezelmods. It looks perfect. I also combined the ModCouple’s Dauntless railing with the inside parts of Mezelmods Dauntless kit (just didn’t use their railing). I think they look great together.
[quoted image]

Thanks. Looks like you also did a great job painting everything to blend together.

1 week later
#12495 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What rubber piece?

There is a small, black rubber ring that the screw goes through before attaching to the ramp post.

I'm always hesitant to remove something from the original design unless there is no other solution. Some other problem usually shows up for me. This isn't something that should vary so much game-to-game even with POTC quality issues. The ball was hanging up on the one-way gate on my game, but I was able to fix by tweaking the screws at the bottom of the ramp and post screw. It's the only game I've seen where the flap screws don't seem designed to be fully tightened.

#12497 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Curious: How did lowering the ramp help in the one-way gate area though? I’m amazed how that doesn’t make the ball get caught there even more....

I didn't really lower the ramp, just tilted it slightly more toward the right by tightening the post screw down a little on the rubber, and tweaking the flap screws so that the one on the right was a little tighter than the other one.

#12525 4 years ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

does adding this to any machine void the Warranty?
The sound is good on the machine already, but not awesome.

Adding an LED light strip, external sub or any other “mod” that interfaces with the game electronics would technically void the warranty. Can’t imagine JJP making PinWoofer an issue though unless it is somehow directly linked to the failure (and you highlighted). If you’re concerned about the exposed connections, you can easily add a plastic cover or put it in a cheap electronics box. I haven’t used on a JJP pin, but it made a huge improvement on one of my Sterns.

1 week later
#12667 4 years ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Considering the game is not finished saying “one last update” is shit. Hopefully they don’t forget to put the basic features in this time. Wonder what bugs we will find in 1.0

Agee the game needs to be finished/polished and an update is overdue, but saying it is lacking “basic features” is a big stretch. You could argue that the finial wizard mode is basic but doubt that’s how most would take your comment. The code is already broader and deeper than 90% of games.

#12671 4 years ago

Saying it’s missing basic features makes it sound like there are significant gaps in regular game play / factory settings. I’m all for highlighting issues but reading the “fan club” thread it’s easy to see why people would be scared off the game. I agree the lack of timely code support is an issue but they’ve said an update is coming and Keith has a stellar record. I’d be very surprised if they didn’t follow a final major update with additional bug fixes if needed. (And congrats on the great game - why worry about Easy and 5 ball setting if you’re knocking on the door of a final wizard mode.)

Quoted from GnarLee:

Go into your settings and change the game to easy. Or use the fancy menu and tell the game to be 5 ball without going into the sub menu and manually changing it. Is this not a basic feature? My 30 year old pin has this

#12711 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I'm a believer in keeping them on hand now after they gave so much new life to Wonka and POTC.

Did you also replace flipper coil stops? Can make even bigger difference than coil sleeves.

#12715 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

No, they were not yet mushroomed and looked fine. Plungers too.

Surprised they don’t have some wear after 3-4K plays. Some of them, especially Stern stops, start to show wear after only several hundred games. Coil dust seems to build up on my POTC quicker than most.

#12720 4 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

About how long does it take to replace the sleeves on the three main playfield flippers, and could you list the high level/overview of the steps involved? I haven't touched any flipper mechanics yet, but I did clean a bunch of gunk off the levers last weekend and I've got a ton of plays on it so mine could probably benefit from it too. Thanks.

All that gunk is the coil stop turning to black powder. Even if it’s not mushroomed, after thousands of plays it’s likely worn changing the length the flipper travels and shot geometry. Not a big deal, but if you’re placing an order for sleeves, it’s a good idea to have some new stops on hand. They are pretty cheap, and you can compare the stop length against a new one to see if it’s time to replace.

#12738 4 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

For the video I used my hand, but the same basic motion occurs when using the flipper.

Is there a noticeable ball trail on the playfield or metal guide indicating the ball path? From your video, it looks like there's a pretty good trail along the outer ball guide.

#12759 4 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I've done some more play testing and although the extra bracket helps reduce the rail flex, I'm not sure how beneficial it is; some shots seem to loop better, but many are still failing. The real solution would be to change the shape of the inner orbit rail, but since the mounting points are fixed, we would have to change the curve by adding an additional metal piece and I have no idea how that could be done.

If you're able to hit 4 loops in a row that's pretty good. I spent a lot of time trying to improve the left loop on my BM66 (which is a LOT clunkier than anything on POTC), and ultimately determined that the design is just unforgiving and needs to be hit within a very narrow angle band. Eric probably designed the loop on POTC so that it wasn't too easy to repeat. Maybe if you asked about it on the JJP Google or Facebook group he would respond.

#12787 4 years ago
Quoted from VALIS666:

Where can one find the rope ladder mod that goes up the Black Pearl ramp?

Mezelmods

#12826 4 years ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

I can easily see them selling 5000 of these eventually.

There is only so much demand for $9k-13k pinball machines in the world and sales of POTC where obviously much softer than expected. Combined with a high level of quality issues due to assembly mistakes and an unforgiving design, it's no surprise they cut bait and moved on to a simpler, less costly, more popular theme like Wonka. I wouldn't bet against them making more but give it 50/50 at best. There are more options then ever for the small number of collectors willing to spend over $10k, and I doubt a theme like POTC has strong, current appeal to the other man-cave and operator market segments. Maybe they could confidently plan on selling 100-200 more copies of a simplified version, i.e. no monkey mech strategy, priced at $12k delivered, but unlike WOZ that has never really been out of production, it would probably take a lot of effort to restart the POTC supply chain and production for relatively small total profits. This seems like a losing strategy for a company that has struggled to generate steady cash flow and profit streams.

#12831 4 years ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

I respect your opinion but disagree. The theme is hugely popular and I don’t think that popularity is going away anytime soon.

I certainly could be wrong and hopefully they will make more. Just skeptical given how weak it originally sold. Seems like the community has largely moved on, and JJP may be its own toughest competition if Eric hits another home run with GR.

#12838 4 years ago

Maybe JJP should “pre-sell” a couple hundred games with a non refundable deposit like Spooky. This would sort out the real demand for a $11.5k YBR type version with minimal risk to both sides.

#12864 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

So, I've now also found an SE for sale... about $6k cheaper than the CE!! The question I'd like to ask you knowledgeable and helpful people is, what do I really lose out on for that 6k? Sure, I can see the comparison list, but do those things mean that much to the overall enjoyment of the game? Things like invisiglass can be bought of course, but how much of the other missing stuff can be got elsewhere? And are the cool mods available applicable to the SE? If you had the SE, what would you miss the most compared to the CE? My only other option seems to be a CE... Thanks for all the help guys, I feel I'm one step closer to owning one of these!!

I think the LE was actually an excellent deal vs the SE at only $1k more for a number of functional (glass, shaker, etc.) and cosmetic differences, but unless the CE art package is a must-have the price premium is steep. Like others have said, there is nothing on the SE other than RGB GI lighting that you couldn’t add. The star map mod available from PMC isn’t tied to gameplay but looks as good or better than factory.

I’m really surprised so many games are still available there, especially the SE’s. Some CE sales have also apparently been shipped back to the States at pretty good pricing. Assume the POTC franchise was equally popular in EU.

#12866 4 years ago

The Rad-Cals and topper on the CE are easily worth paying about $1k more IMO, but the CE art package and armor design are really in the eye of the beholder.

#12878 4 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

I am getting a ship bulls eye target fault, I went into the switch matrix test. when I drop a ball into the hole nothing highlights on the matrix. Anyone run into this? Thx

Very common problem. If you push back all the way on the ship it should trigger the switch and clear the fault. Can't recall exactly how it all works, but there is a mechanical switch on the rear of the backboard that is triggered when the ship is hit.

#12879 4 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

I am getting a ship bulls eye target fault, I went into the switch matrix test. when I drop a ball into the hole nothing highlights on the matrix. Anyone run into this? Thx

Here you go: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues#post-4933955

#12888 4 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

They look great....I'm shocked there was enough room to install them. Mine could barely fit game blades. Hope they don't get all scratched up raising and lowering the play field.

I've thought about putting some black chrome mirror vinyl on but haven't gotten to it yet. I have some spare mirror blades to use as a pattern. Seems like it would look good but couldn't find any threads about it on Pinside. I'd prefer art blades or black mirror blades, but am not thrilled with the art blades available and it's just too tight for mirrors.

https://www.amazon.com/Mirror-Self-Adhesive-Air-Release-Air-Free-3MIL-VViViD8/dp/B00L9J65NW

#12892 4 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Those might look cool....I wonder if they go on flat, and don't show any ripples?

It is air egress vinyl so should go on similiar to art blades.

1 week later
#12942 4 years ago
Quoted from Munsters:

eaglepin thnx!
Ive also have an forgotten problem with the left ship. It keeps hanging to the left and dont comes back into the normal position after shooting the ball against it. It's not the upperdeck holding it back. When I manually push the ship to the left, it will not return to its normal position. What to do?[quoted image][quoted image]

There’s a playfield post in the center of the loop under the ship where it could be getting hung up. Take the top of the ship off to inspect. The screws to remove it are behind the backboard and you need to lift the back of the playfield to slide it out. The prior owner removed the post on my game and it doesn’t effect the shot.

1 week later
#13034 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

eaglepin Does the chest have to come out in order to put the sleeve on?[quoted image]

Why do you want to put a sleeve on that post? The ball occasionally settles there and has more of chance of going down the middle but that’s part of the design.

#13055 4 years ago
Quoted from bbulkley:I just wired funds to Pinball Sales in Australia to secure one of the last NIB LE's. It should fly its way to me next week - looking forward to it!

Congrats but surprised demand is so weak in AU. That's a lot of money wasted on transport. Guess the strengthing $ over the last 12 months makes it workable.

#13096 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Keep trying to call Steve. If buying parts call Shannan.
LTG : )

I've been trying to buy a part for well over a month. Numerous polite emails and voice-mails unanswered, and when we do connect the promised follow-up never happens. It's ridiculous. I don't really fault Steve or Shannan who appear to be swamped, but JJP Management is seriously dropping the ball and not coming close to walking the talk.

1 week later
#13155 4 years ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Anyone have a feel for what a new in unopened box pirates CE would go for these days?

I'd go higher at $13,500. Hard to understand why Elvira or BM66 Special Editions sell for $15k but the CE version of an amazing game like POTC would be less. All the prices are crazy, but relatively speaking I think POTC is easily the best value.

1 week later
#13224 4 years ago
Quoted from statsdoc:

POTCJJP is the best pin I have ever played and I can’t see anyone topping it in the near future.

I hope the experience with Pirates hasn’t taken some of the wind out of Eric’s sails, and his next game is another home run. GNR isn’t as appealing to me as a general pirates theme, but as long as he’s not too constrained Eric probably learned some important lessons with POTC that could make his next design even better. Unfortunately, I suspect JJP will play it safe vs. continuing to shoot for the magic of the BW classics.

1 week later
#13356 4 years ago
Quoted from Vans:

Where is the best place to get plastic protector for slings? Also what do you recommend for colours as the GI changes colours?

I bought some red protectors from playfield-protectors.com during their Black Friday special and think they look great. Very good quality and if I remember about the same price as Mezel mods including shipping from Europe.

1 week later
#13568 4 years ago
Quoted from FryDaddy:

Can someone tell me where this came from. Playing game and looked like it came from the pearl not sure stopped play and shut down.[quoted image]

Found the same part in the bottom of my cabinet. Couldn’t find where it’s from and everything is working so just stored. Doesn’t look like a typical pinball part. Hopefully someone knows.

2 weeks later
#13718 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Jack will make more. Whether he knows it right now or not. There's too much money sitting on the table.

There’s probably a decent amount of revenue to be had, but how much profit - and more importantly, how much profit compared to using their resources to make newer pins? Beyond any licensing issues, I think the prospect for more POTC’s largely depends on the success of their new games and if they need to leverage open production capacity.

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#13741 4 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Pretty sure Stern with all their profit handled the recent Playfields in the same manner? Or lack of handled? Yet I don’t think it’s a sign of closure.

But Stern has actually sent people the promised unpopulated playfields. And properly staffs and supports its in-house tech/customer service group. I have no idea if their business is in trouble, but there are definitely signs that they are compromising customer service and goodwill to improve short -term profitability.

#13748 4 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I think you missed the context of what I replied to. He was referring to JJP sending out Unpopulated playfields which was the Same (not for all only a few) case with Stern support.

I understand that they both basically offered the same solution, but it seems Stern quickly shipped playfields once promised while JJP has shipped few if any replacement POTC playfields months after promising.

I received a replacement playfield for my IMDN and while it’s been a hassle for many to get a favorable decision from Stern, my sense is that they’ve actually supplied many hundreds of new playfields across the effected games

#13761 4 years ago

Read the Yelobird thread on repairing clear coat pooling. A number if not most POTC playfields are no different than yours when posts/guides are removed and looked at closely. You can fix it up to look fine and prevent further damage by “ironing” down the pooling and applying Mylar.

#13764 4 years ago

Duplicate

#13766 4 years ago

Great news, iepinball is streaming 1.02 beta code.

#13798 4 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

Did you try this method? Thanks much for bringing that thread and suggestion up!

Yes, I did it on numerous posts and under some guides across the playfield and it came out nearly perfect. It’s surprisingly easy and effective. The clear readily softens and flattens down. From my experience and everything else I’ve read, it also further cures the clear preventing the pooling from returning. Not sure installing mylar over the repaired areas is necessary (unless there is already chipping) but can't hurt. If you don’t address the pooling, it will eventually crack and chip.

#13856 4 years ago
Quoted from LesManley:

Hey guys and/or harryhoudini , does anyone know how to properly install Harry's Star Field map mod? I have an SE and I bought the lighted version. I assume I just use the double sided tape to adhere the LED plastic to the star field plastic and then bend it into place and install like normal? Only other question is where to pull power for the lights on an SE? I watched the videos so I know the basic installation, but I didn't see that it covers the lights at all, so any help would be super appreciated. Thanks!
On a side note, my Tortgua has started throwing it down the middle the majority of the time. I boosted the coil up to 28 even in the menu and it will still do it. I would like for it to kick out to the left flipper like I know it should. Any ideas for a fix there instead of dropping power to have it go to the right flipper?

Really suggest you attach the led plastic to the backboard using thin double sided tape (not the thicker tape provided), and then install the star map plastic. It will make installation much easier

The scoop is a poor design with the screws going into T-nuts. They should have used longer screws with lock nuts below the playfield. There is a post in the POTC troubleshooting thread on how to loosen the pop bumper assembly to get at the scoop screws without having to remove the whole thing. Like others have said, use plenty of locktite when you reassemble!

#13903 4 years ago
Quoted from TomN:

Just wanted to ask a question and get some opinions. A couple of months back I bought a nice modded out JjpPotc Se from a pinside member. Everything went well. Game was beautiful and as described. Currently working with no issues whatsoever. My only small issue and admittedly partly my fault is that I forgot a couple of the mods. Art blades and the chest mod...anyway I let him know and offered to pay postage to get them mailed to me. Even offered to meet up and exchange if he didn’t want to be bothered with shipping. At this point he is ghosting me and currently not even responding to my txts or pm’s. Still do not have the items btw. Should I just say my bad and forget about it? Not quite sure I want to call him out, but would like to get what was offered and paid for. Personally, I think it’s garbage to ignore and not do something as simple as drop the items in the mail. Thoughts and advice?

If they were clearly included in the ad then he should obviously work with you to get them - otherwise it’s basically theft. Personally, I wouldn’t get into a debate on Pinside which always quickly devolve, but would leave negative feedback even though he will likely do the same. I’d just buy new ones (definitely worth it) and enjoy the game. It sucks, but $400 isn’t enough to dwell on in this hobby.

3 weeks later
#14256 4 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Why do my WOZ flippers feel so different to POTC? In fact, the playfield feels much more flat on WOZ. I'm sure I should check pitch, but is it me or are they different?

It’s not just you, WOZ is definitely floaty. So is Hobbit. That’s one of the reasons I initially held off on buying POTC. Not sure why they feel so different, but assume it has to be coil strength and/or settings.

Have you tried turning the kick-out power down to prevent issues with the ball gate? Maybe the high power is causing it to bounce around and interfere with the kick-out. If that doesn’t work, you can try buying another on Pinballlife or just remove.

1 week later
#14393 4 years ago

Why should going through a distributor matter for getting tech service or parts support. I understand the distributors role in warranty claims, but basic, ongoing support is a different story. Just reinforces that leadership is no longer customer focused, they are seriously under resourced (under major budget pressures), and dealing with problems to minimize business impacts, i.e. playing favorites.

#14396 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Must be why they hired two more guys this year. Jim, and now Barry.

A distributor helping you, may know what you need, what kind of help and even assist you in fixing it. And if needing parts the distributor may have it, or know who to call to cut to the chase.
A good distributor will bend over backwards so you get the most out of your game. And save you time in the back and forths of getting things done. He'll do it.
LTG : )

Lloyd, I’m not questioning the value of distributors overall, just that you shouldn’t have to leverage them to get decent general tech and parts support from JJP.

There have been numerous, ongoing complaints about parts and tech service support in this and other posts for some time - including many about not even getting a response after multiple attempts. I personally gave up on two separate issues after many calls and failure of JJP to follow-up as promised. And all of my interactions were courteous and professional. They are obviously resolving many issues but that doesn’t offset the negative experiences. I hope they are making the necessary changes, but haven’t seen any real indications yet.

#14404 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Direct-customer service isn't the only way businesses work. In fact, MOST businesses would prefer not to deal with the customer directly. They are not properly informed, waste a lot of time, and make unreasonable demands. Take the building industry for example. All the really good quality materials and products are not sold to the public. The public gets 'safe' products which meet regulations - but which don't last. Anything you buy at Home Depot for example, costs more and works less well due to this situation. Same with distributors and JJP. There are only so many workers and hours in the day.

I understand how distributors work and the important role they can play - I've used them throughout my career. Are you suggesting that JJP's model is only to provide tech and parts support through distributors (and thereby only to original purchasers)? Or that it's OK to repeatedly ignore and/or blow off owners of their machines who call published support numbers? They have not positioned themselves solely as a wholesaler. They sell direct and provide direct support channels on their web-site and other communications. Even if they didn't offer direct support, any good, customer focused business will refer you to the right place - and monitor their distributors to make sure they are providing proper support. They make great games (I've owned every one other than Wonka) but they are having real issues with support that will negatively effect their long-term success if they don't improve.

#14417 4 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So I’m doing a little touch up on my LE. Anyone know where I can get the t-mounding for this pin? Mine got a little dinged up in transit. Also, there are little chips in the powder coat on the rails right where the top of the head hits when folded. Anyone know a reasonable patch for that?
Thanks in advance.

Problem is it’s not t-molding. It’s banding that is glued on. JJP apparently buys the back box as an assembly with the molding already installed. Not sure where to buy, but unless it’s significant, you’re probably better off leaving alone or touching up with a little paint to make less noticeable.

You can’t really touch up powdercoat. JJP sells replacement rails at a very reasonable price. They may even have them listed on their website store. Hopefully they’re not out of stock for Pirates.

2 weeks later
#14569 4 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Crap I might be too late on the dauntless mod.

You should start a will he make more speculation thread

#14610 4 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Just watched this video. My door is definitely not going down all the way for sure. Any fixes for this?

I'd only mess with it if the ball doesn't fit through when it's in open mode, and vice-versa when it should be closed. My door doesn't come all the way down but plays fine.

1 week later
#14687 3 years ago
Quoted from Lobo2k:

Underrated...? It's #5 on the top 100 right now.
Anyways. I know a lot of ppl disagree with me. I know some who agree too. I guess I don't get it. The shots are fine and challenging...I just find the theme boring (the job they did on it anyways, would have been cool if it was like, Neuman doing the callouts or something and not some Australian sounding dude), the art mediocre, the call outs / animations / videos annoying, the rules sort of linear... dunno. I guess I don't get it. I haven't played the prem/LE though. Maybe the moving head will make a huge diff. I don't think it's horrible, but I would take Metallica, Deadpool, Maiden (just as far as recent Sterns go) and a bunch of other games over it. I would waaaay rather Walking Dead too. Just my opinion, I know it's not everyone's... maybe one day it will change. I've played probably 50-100 games on it though, it's always just "meh". I could take it or leave it. I haven't played the most recent code, though. One of my friends already sold his pro, said it was boring after a few months. My other friend who has one still has it but he's not in love with it either. Dunno

I’ve put about 20 games on a JP2 premium, and it also hasn’t wowed me. Shots and rules are very good but haven’t been impressed with everything else. Will eventually pick one up because it’s a tough, deep game, but it’s a notch down vs. exceptional games like IMDN and POTC IMO. My guess is that there will be numerous used JP2’s for sale in several months as new, popular themes come out since it requires pretty strong skills to truly appreciate.

#14720 3 years ago
Quoted from JamCat:

Here is my Norrington game tonight. Finished all 25 chapters and 3 wizard modes. Went through the last two balls unable to start either of the last 2 wizard modes. First one hit the sling and jumped over everything into the outlane and then I bricked the shots at least 10 times each until the “I” lane got me on the last one and I had no tilt warnings left [quoted image]

Congrats. If legit, that’s some of the most impressive playing ever. Can’t fathom how it’s possible to successfully complete 24 chapters and play 3 wizard modes on basically 2 balls even with Norrington. Pinball is still some fraction of luck.

#14758 3 years ago
Quoted from drfrightner:

You want an honest opinion ... if I was a pinball company I would shut down the line for 6 months. I wouldn't release a new game now until Pinball Expo in Chicago. Keep your guys designing games, filling parts, and mods but focus on selling inventory. I wouldn't restart a pinball line making new games until I knew without any doubt the market is there, the economy is there. There is an old saying 'love to be a fly on the wall'. I'm sure all these guys are sitting around trying to figure out of the market will be strong enough for starting up the line, when they might be sitting on a lot of inventory.
My guess honestly is you won't see a new game until you hear some good news about the economy, or pinball expo. Pinball companies won't be able to get 50 dollars worth of PR for a game right now, much less distributors orders would almost certainly be down drastically even for a new game. Right now you have distributors sitting on piles on NIB games they can't sell. This is just my honestly to goodness opinion you won't see new games for months. The risk is just too high.

Yeah lets go JJP ... where is code for Wonka and Pirates.

Assuming you’re not involved in manufacturing. Shutting down for +/- 6 months carries huge risks and would be deadly for many manufacturers. They are bleeding fixed costs for salaries, benefits, property taxes, insurance, etc., and risk losing valuable employees during an extended layoff. Selling some product is far better than nothing, and there are many in this hobby who have lots of discretionary income and are anxious for a new toy to help break the boredom and lift their spirits. Also suspect that there isn’t a ton of inventory in the pipeline. Stern basically produces to order and doesn’t carry stock, and I think JJP is the same. And with no new production, the distributors probably aren’t anxious to discount their existing inventory.

1 week later
#14845 3 years ago

Companies let people go all the time, even high performers, that don’t fit their forward business plans - but it’s usually a big mistake to let someone go who is widely known and greatly appreciated by your main customer base. Employees like that are rare and valuable and can usually play an important, enthusiastic role in transitioning the business.

1 week later
#14883 3 years ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

Anyone have an extra shooter lane wireform they aren't using? Mine is messed up (not fabbed correctly, ball is bumping multiple spots). Unfortunately it seems JJP sent out all of their 'extras' and is out of stock and not making more. Please send me a PM if you're able to help.
I wish I had been able to open my game sooner!

There is someone on here that offers to repair wireform welds at a reasonable cost. Don't recall his username, but his business may be listed in the Pinside directory or you may want to ask in a separate post.

#14884 3 years ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

Anyone have an extra shooter lane wireform they aren't using? Mine is messed up (not fabbed correctly, ball is bumping multiple spots). Unfortunately it seems JJP sent out all of their 'extras' and is out of stock and not making more. Please send me a PM if you're able to help.
I wish I had been able to open my game sooner!

Noticed the post was a couple years old but maybe he'll still help: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/welding-service-for-broken-scoops-guides-ramps-etc#post-3589803

1 week later
#14957 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

So I tried that. But that makes the flippers rest to far up.
I always get confused by the parallel to the lane guides. Does that mean the rubber of the flipper rests against the metal ruler which is running against the lane guide? Or do you line up the centre of the flipper against this parallel line?
Both my dead pool and AFM have alignment marks where the flipper points down compared to the lane guides. And pirates being such a wide bodied machine with targets so far too the side makes me think you don’t want the flippers to far off.
Then there is backflipping the pearl. Is this doable because of flipper alignment being slightly up or a higher flipper power setting?
Lastly the depths. How to do a rolling flipper pass from the depths over a raised left flipper to the right? Is this meant to happen? Or just always flip?
I guess I would like to know what the game behaviour should be. As I said the parallel rule does not work with some of my other pins.

I can easily backhand the Pearl on normal flipper power, and do roll passes out of the depths. I’d look at Eric playing on Twitch or Youtube to see how the different flippers are designed to be set. Personally, think the ruler method is hit-or-miss on modern games. Works but isn’t necessarily how it was designed to be played.

#14959 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Thank you! I will go and watch the streams. Is it possible you could post a picture of your flippers? Also curious to know what your pitch is.
Thanks again!

Here you go:

IMG_2957 (resized).jpgIMG_2957 (resized).jpgIMG_2959 (resized).jpgIMG_2959 (resized).jpgIMG_2962 (resized).jpgIMG_2962 (resized).jpgIMG_2963 (resized).jpgIMG_2963 (resized).jpg
#14960 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Thank you! I will go and watch the streams. Is it possible you could post a picture of your flippers? Also curious to know what your pitch is.
Thanks again!

Here's a better shot of the upper one. And pitch is at factory which I think is 6.5.

IMG_2958 (resized).jpgIMG_2958 (resized).jpg

IMG_2964 (resized).jpgIMG_2964 (resized).jpg
#14963 3 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Thanks lucky! We seem similar. So do you do any special technique to do the rolling lane pass from the depths or just have the left flipper raised?
Also to go back to eaglepin my top flipper is so. I think yours is resting too far out. [quoted image]

Looks like my upper flipper is actually further back. Plastic tip is about even with the metal ramp protector tab.

I don't necessarily just hold the flipper up but will time when it's raised based on ball speed. The feed from the depths is pretty variable but almost always controllable. Most of the time it will easily go to the right, occasionally stop on the left, and sometime go into the right sling. It rarely has enough speed left though to make the sling fire.

#15069 3 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

Question.
Where would I place a shim to lower the plunger?
(Thanks Butch for making such a great schematic!!)[quoted image]

May be easier to take the opposite approach and just put something under the playfield brackets to raise the playfield a 1/16” or so. Did the trick for me. Like this:

59956E58-E6DF-43C7-8196-B9865B0ECE26 (resized).jpeg59956E58-E6DF-43C7-8196-B9865B0ECE26 (resized).jpeg5F4B5AD8-7C8D-4B85-9E50-8B77D11E0455 (resized).jpeg5F4B5AD8-7C8D-4B85-9E50-8B77D11E0455 (resized).jpeg
#15071 3 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

I did that with a bit of sticky velcro. Still didn't raise it enough. I had a pretty fucked up situation with my game upon opening it initially, my playfield wouldn't seat at all....
What did you use there to raise yours? Thanks for the suggestion, by the way!

Just some adhesive backed magnetic tape that I bought to repair some on a set of pinstadiums. Good luck. It is screwed up if the shooter has more than 1/8” interference.

1 week later
#15113 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

The longer that you are on it, and the more that you go onto it, the faster it moves. There's one character that has the advantage to reduce the black pearl motion.

It seems completely radome to me other than picking the one character with a stated advantage. Actually seems like it gets easier the more often you're on-board, but I haven't given it that much attention. Curious if JJP has ever really communicated how it's programmed?

1 week later
#15136 3 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

So initially the deflector was loose, and I thought I fixed it. Then noticed I did for most, the ball was now mostly going to the left flipper vs the right and down the drain. Just had a drain in my high score game from the tartuga vuk on the last ball, thought I was going to put my fist through the glass.
Screws are tight with as much left angle On the deflector as possible. Interestingly, there is hardly (If any) a difference when I adjust the coil strength. Possible the assembly beneath the playfield could be loose, or maybe a coil (or sleeve) issue?
What should the expected behavior be? The same (Or close) every time? Left flipper? Or is it supposed to be dangerous and drain one out of three?
Thank you!

It should go to the left flipper but is not suppose to be totally consistent. Any Kickout that is that close to a flipper will occasionally result in drains. It’s frustrating but is a risk-reward decision and just another way designed to get the ball to drain. One out of 3 straight to the middle is high though - especially if you can’t influence with a timely nudge. May want to check/tweak level or pitch.

2 months later
#15507 3 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

This may be more of a general pinball question but it relates to my Pirates game so I guess I’ll ask it here. What should the gap be on the slingshot switches? Somehow it’s super sensitive on the left side (like 1mm or less, to the point that the air can fire it occasionally, I know that’s not right) and way less sensitive on the right side (probably 2-3mm on both, ball has to hit it pretty good at a fairly right angle). I’ve got the tool to bend the leafs, but want to know how it’s supposed to be?
Thanks!

Start by taking the switch out and adjusting the leafs so that they are straight and parallel to each other. This typically creates about a 1/16” gap when reinstalled depending on tightness of the rubbers. You can remove the switch and tweak if you want to make more sensitive. I’d also make sure the sling posts are properly spaced and tightened down onto silicone washers before adjusting the switches. It’s common on POTC for the posts to loosen which makes the rubbers loose.

3 months later
#16101 3 years ago

EHOH is very fun but its playfield design is average and can arguably be somewhat clunky. It excels at theme integration, video assets and code, but personally I have a hard time viewing any game as an all time great unless it’s also an excellent and/or special shooter - like POTC. You could certainly argue that AFM and MM are also basic shooters that rely on theme integration but they have great flow and were “leaders” not “followers.” The EHOH castle is cool but is a distant follower to the MM castle. As far as playfield design and standing the test of time POTC is just in a different league IMO.

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