(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!


By goren1818

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 12,682 posts
  • 473 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 24 minutes ago by romulusx
  • Topic is favorited by 224 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 2,248 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMAG4041 (resized).jpg
IMAG4040 (resized).jpg
IMAG4043 (resized).jpg
IMAG4042 (resized).jpg
ACF9F2AD-099A-44C8-9352-CD7BA85360C9 (resized).jpeg
9A1C9D29-ACB7-4773-9683-CF88CC55A1C7 (resized).jpeg
7AB58D36-58A0-484E-A049-BFD75D25EC83 (resized).jpeg
31CC6C83-7FFE-46DB-9486-96FFA24E6EC1 (resized).jpeg
AEC799EC-1B4F-4734-8AE0-1CA165834AEC (resized).jpeg
2019-10-14 (resized).jpg
DEAB7C32-C3F9-4E1F-A635-6075853567D7 (resized).jpeg
D138B2B2-FA60-48F9-B4FB-6F0A051EDB19 (resized).jpeg
60417BE8-B52C-4418-B2F0-C56B52284152 (resized).jpeg
2C17611F-B880-4400-8F82-C0E864AF43E8 (resized).jpeg
595E901D-231D-4566-888F-75777840B8D3 (resized).jpeg
Cabinet (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

20 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #222 Liar's Dice rules explained! Posted by goren1818 (1 year ago)

Post #644 Rules flow chart Posted by Rbviessman (11 months ago)

Post #1021 How to fix black pearl lamps Posted by Yelobird (11 months ago)

Post #1360 Black Pearl flippers are uneven when in upper position - Fix Posted by evh347 (10 months ago)

Post #2468 Hardware fix for balls getting hung up during multiball. Posted by Pinballpal (9 months ago)

Post #2892 Adjustment for auto plunger not hitting balls cleanly or correctly Posted by Pinballpal (9 months ago)

Post #3974 Deadflip stream from Valentine’s Day 2019. Posted by Tuna_Delight (8 months ago)

Post #4014 POTC trouble shooting guide Posted by zaphX (8 months ago)

Post #4856 Possibly let distributor go through machine and get it tuned in. Posted by dgposter (7 months ago)

Post #6315 Fix for dauntless positioning, canon shots not landing Posted by Yelobird (6 months ago)

Post #6631 Twitch Video - How to Remove and Reinstall Black Pearl Upper Playfield Posted by KevInBuffalo (6 months ago)

Post #6655 Mylar bubble at jjPotC Map hole. Posted by thc666 (6 months ago)

Post #6834 Titan ring sizes Posted by AUKraut (6 months ago)

Post #8145 Positives and Negatives for each character Posted by EaglePin (6 months ago)

Post #8288 Rubber Sizing and Location on Playfield Posted by f3honda4me (5 months ago)

Post #8602 How to see pictures the game has taken Posted by f3honda4me (5 months ago)

Post #8625 Version .99 release notes as of 5/6/2019 Posted by pinball_keefer (5 months ago)

Post #8709 How to backup settings before installing an update Posted by LTG (5 months ago)

Post #9273 Version .99 Character Plus and Minus Benefits Posted by pinball_keefer (5 months ago)

Post #11892 Clear concise video on removing the black pearl Posted by rlslick (62 days ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider kingbw.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#141 1 year ago

I've played the production "standard" edition on location about a dozen times. One thing I don't understand. When I hit the mystery awards and it selects a multiball as an award, shouldn't it start the multiball? It didn't do anything the 3 times I got awarded them … I don't get it. Anybody know? Just trying to understand it.

#143 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Well, there's "start" and "advance." Yes a mb should start if it says "start," but that will only happen in pity conditions or very high mystery levels.

Hmmm, the one time it was the highest mystery level (white). The other two were at a lower level. What does "advance" do? Just add a qualifying step for it? I got the one that the 50 gold pieces awards - not a "mystery" award and that one worked. Just the ones that were mystery awards didn't seem to do anything. Maybe they all were just the "advances". I'll have to watch the list more closely the next time I play.

#151 1 year ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

There was definitely a custom screen on the display and a unique light show -- from what I remember it basically dimmed all the lights except for the shots you needed to hit. It was timed and I didn't hit enough shots in time to progress to figure out what happened next. Can't remember what happened to the music.
Real helpful I know

The way they dim the lights like that and only the shots you need are lit up on that mode makes it more intense and reminds me of the Toto and There's No Place Like Home ball saver modes on WOZ. Very well done.

#153 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

I think I read somewhere that you’ve played a standard edition on location; is the light show good on it too?

The only difference "under glass" with the standard that I noticed is that there is no star field on the back panel - just blank in that area ... a good place for a mod I guess. No twirling pirate on the jet poppers. I'm pretty sure everything else is supposed to be the same (under glass). I did shoot the cannon and hit the other ship on it a few times, but not direct hits as it didn't put me right into that mode. The lights changing colors and flickering in the lanterns on the ship is still there on the standard also. The upper flipper loop shot was super smooth, but will take a little practice as the ball is hidden for most of the loop (unlike IMDN). The rewards for consecutive loops and hitting the hole under the ship or the gold in that combination are great and worth the effort. That stupid "I" out lane got me quite a bit - great design, but can be frustrating. On the prototypes Eric removed the rubber from the "E" out lane post near the plunger lane and made the save nudge a little easier. It appears that it ships with the rubber donut on that post and very difficult to save it - tilted every time I tried it (unsuccessfully), but home owners can easily remove the donut, or swap it to the post on the other side. Love it and my wife declared on Facebook that it will be our next pin ... so I guess that's the "golden ticket" final approval from her. It helped that on the game's day 4 at that location (our first visit there) she got the high score #2 right behind Eric's default score.

2 weeks later
#260 1 year ago
Quoted from daudioguy:

Please,
There are two outcomes to firing the cannon. A hit, or a bullseye. Not too long ago JP added videos for each outcome. There are big and huge audio outcomes for each. These are the LOUDEST sounds in the game. All of the JJP streams only incidentally capture game audio from the mike so the real experience obtained by standing in front of a pin after blowing up the ship is not available.
The explosions are big, the orchestra goes nuts and it is very rewarding. It used not to be, it is now.
This event happens when the ball is wild and it is as big as it can be without nerfing your ability to continue playing.
There is considerable low frequency content in these fanfares and those with subs attached will notice it.
ddt

I guess I'm going to have to separate my JJP pins from each other then. This between Hobbit and WOZ with external subs would be a little much at a party it seems … from this description with the bass. Each JJP will have to be put in separate corners of the room … because I would refuse to turn down the volume. Great stuff and keep up the excellent work!

#263 1 year ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Where do you plug in a subwoofer in The Hobbit and how do you get the cords in and out of the cabinet without drilling holes , any pictures would be great

I think I posted that in the TH thread someplace. When I get home tonight I'll try to search for the link. If I can't find it, I'll post some pictures in that thread for you. To sum it up ... I split the signal going to the cabinet sub (from the back of the PC cabinet box connection) so that it goes to both the RH and LH audio cable channels to the sub, then out of a small capped off access plate on the back of the pin. This is the way Pinnovators recommends it.

#288 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Stationary ship toy (upper left corner)

The ship is a large stand up target and moves if you hit it like hitting a target (no animated movement). If you sink the ship through the side hole in the ship, it doesn't move. If you hit the side of the ship, it will move some amount - about 1/2" max from what I saw with the glass off on location.

1 month later
#801 11 months ago

The problem is finding a really good pinball repair tech that knows what they are doing to help you out. Luckily, I live in an area with a few very knowledgeable people that know how to fix pinball machines, but some are not for hire, or they cost $100 to show up, plus hours and parts. That's ok though as at least I have that as a backup plan. If you are going to own a pinball machine, go into it knowing that you need to know or learn how to troubleshoot the basics as it is probable that things will wear and will fail over time. It's mechanical moving parts being beat to death with a metal ball and lots of electronics. I didn't know too much about it when I started out with pinball, and I'm still learning and not super good at soldering and board type of work. Troubleshooting is a learning process and "part of the hobby". LTG is our best troubleshooting guy that we have "free" access to and he seems to enjoy helping for the love of pinball. Just give him all the details that you can with photos identifying what you are talking bout - or even video links that you can PM him. There is a need for more pinball repair techs out in the world. I've helped out a few people myself. If there is a thread for your local area for something like "What's for sale in <state name here>", make a post there to see if they know of someone local that can help you repair your pin.

All that being said ... yes, NIB pins "should" be working out of the box with very little tweaks needed for small things that happen during shipping. JJP is very good at tracking what is happening that is common that needs corrections and they find solutions to implement. Eric is (or was) at the factory likely checking over the CE changeover on the production line and is looking into these repeat issues. The CE owners and future production pins will likely have much better odds for "the luck of the draw" for no issues or just needing minor tweaks from shipping.

#810 11 months ago
Quoted from Genjuro:

Yes, thats agreed. The point is the fact that owners are at times required provide their own service for a product that is brand new and the request is that some system be implemented in the field or at the exit point of the factory to address the issues that are complex for people that want to enjoy pinball but have a limited skill set for repairs.
Otherwise the industry is self limiting to customers that are mechanically inclined, and I cant see how this keeps the industry in growth mode.
Can we agree on that?

If my old memory is correct, JJP use to have "white glove delivery service" way back with WOZ. I'm guessing that was for it to be delivered, setup and checked out. Maybe that should be revisited or offered by the distributors (at a small cost to cover their time/effort) for the newer pin owners. If you are very local to a distributor that you buy from, most will help if there is a problem and asked. One of the advantages of buying through a distributor.

2 weeks later
#1265 10 months ago
Quoted from bmegar:

Does anyone know when the POTC CE’s are going to get released,Any information will be greatly appreciated

JJP should be assembling them now - according to distributors.

#1382 10 months ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Mine leans to the left a little. Not sure if it is supposed to, but it seems fine.
Does your LED strip for the topper flicker?

It's supposed to lean to the left by default so that it doesn't roll off the right side as easy, but I was told that you can adjust that to be "harder" (lean more to the right) with a hardware adjustment.

#1428 10 months ago
Quoted from Hogbog:

I've been in Lakewood NJ getting the CEs off the line

Push them through please … I'm waiting for my LE to be made after the CE's. Just drop an LE off on your way back. Sign the back of the backbox for me while you're there. [Just kidding] Can't wait to get it. I'm really going to have to read up on the progression paths in the game.

#1618 10 months ago
Quoted from Hogbog:

Don't do that. If you put mylar on the disk, it will literally do nothing to the ball. It is a specially designed polymer surface that grips the ball, and if you cover it...no more gripping.

So then we should not wax that disk surface either? (Still waiting for my game, but I am taking lots of notes)

#1836 10 months ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

Kristin surprised me yesterday and said ours is coming Tuesday! And Monster Bash on Monday.

Now you can make some cool mods for it. Not sure what else can be made, but I'm sure you'll come up with something.

1 week later
#2419 9 months ago

While waiting for my LE … just put about 20 plays on a JJPOTC with my wife on location and might have found a small bug in code (for those paying for games). If you win a free game or get a match at the end of a game for a free game, it still shows 0 credits. If we put in 4 quarters ($1 per game), it shows 1 credit. If we push the start button twice, we get a 2 player game. Just something for Keith to look at.

My wife and I love the game and can't wait for ours to be delivered next month sometime.

#2454 9 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

On recent games JJP added one of those clear rubber nipple stick on things same as the top of the Tortuga scoop and the issue is solved. Hope this makes sense.
Not sure if this will help but here is a picture of the afore mentioned nipple. lol
[quoted image]

Nipples to the rescue!

#2502 9 months ago
Quoted from wcbu64:

Ha . . . I just bought one too and was thinking about how I was going to screw it up trying to break it in half. Just set it aside for later.

I bought one and don't have my game yet. Waiting for some beginner instructions on it too. I do have a cut-off saw that I have a metal cutting blade in it. Following this topic in the thread.

1 week later
#2707 9 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Thanks for this fix! I believe my first machine has this problem - it has had inconsistent plunges from day one, where sometimes it’s fine and sometimes the ball just barely makes it to the mystery skill shot. My other machine shoots perfect.

Instead of grinding the mechanism, just loosen the plunger housing and adjust the height.

#2810 9 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

maybe the moral of the story is to buy this new, send it to you and then pick it up in a few weeks ; )
Great seller btw. Hope you're enjoying the CE!

My LE "might" finally be on the line next week. He's within a couple hour's drive … I might have to bribe him for help with beer or wine … or Tennessee moonshine if mine arrives with these issues.

#2857 9 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

my Munsters LE

Quoted from heni1977:

HMMMM, I see you don't live to far from me, hehehehehe!

A pitstop for me on the way to MGC. Be there that Thursday evening ...

Wonka should be at Level 257 by then too.

#2860 9 months ago
Quoted from screaminr:

So... Wonka is the next release ?

The JJP "Official announcement" hasn't been made yet. There are very strong rumors though.

#2862 9 months ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Cool . From what I've read on pinside I thought it was leaning towards Toy Story.

Wishful thinking (me too), but the new movie has to come out first in June. If rumors are true, that is why Toy Story didn't come out before Pirates - because of the movie delay. Latest I heard at Expo is that JJP #5 will be revealed in Texas in a couple of months ... if nothing happens to delay those plans, which could happen.

#2903 9 months ago

Are cliffys being made yet?

#2927 9 months ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

This did the trick, zip tie the coil and now the auto plunger is working consistently every time, thank you!

What do you zip tie the coil too? Pic?

1 week later
#3039 9 months ago

Just a thought … there is no Kraken in the game or a related multiball, etc. Now think of the light show at the end of the game on TH with Smaug breathing fire over the playfield - The displays shows Smaug breathing fire with a blanket of flickering fire waves over the inserts for a few seconds with some deep fire sounding effects. What about at the end of the Pirates game (or lets even say a "good" game measured in some way) a wave of blue flickering water flickers on the inserts with a view of the ocean on the display. Then 2 loud thumps from the shaker and sound effects at the same time. Silence for 2 seconds. Then waves of tentacles start to appear on the inserts then screen. Loud wood splintering sounds with the shaker making some pulses. Then water sounds, bubble sounds with the screen showing an under water shot … fade to black with "Game Over" on the screen.

Well … something like that would be a cool future enhancement and be another JJP epic game ending light show …

#3064 9 months ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

...other than wizard mode 2...

Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

Like Keefer said, it's in there:

My mistake … never saw it personally or in about 10 streams that I watched and believed someone else in another thread that it wasn't in there. I guess I should have worded it less 'matter of fact'. Sorry. Glad that it is in there - looks interesting from the Buffalo Pinball link. Thanks for correcting me so that I know.

#3069 9 months ago
Quoted from Crile1:

If I tap off the cabinet subwoofer directly, would I still need a preamp or is that signal strong enough since it is directly to the sub?

There is a volume adjustment on the pinovators mixer box for each input. Did you crank that all the way up?

#3085 9 months ago
Quoted from Crile1:

For me, I'm using the Pinnovators 4 in 1 mixer to hook 4 games that can run simultaneously off of one sub. Last night my son and I played Hobbit and WOZ and sub was able to mix them so that each of us could hear our own games. Worked really well. Of course, Hobbit is the king when it comes to how great the sub works. Smaug shakes the room when he talks now...and we love it...well, maybe not my wife...but the kids and I do!

On my DI, I looked up in the manual which post amp connection is use after the amp that goes directly to the sub. Not sure if it is the same connection on pirates, but it was the top connection on the metal box in the backbox. I'll be getting my Pirates pin next week, so if it is different, I'll be bugging you for what you did.

#3090 9 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

One sub powers four games accurately? I guess I'm just I'll school as I go 1 sub per game alligator clips ftw

3 games right next to each other with the sub under the middle works just fine. When you add a fourth, the sound is too far away for my liking. The sound doesn't get distorted at all. At least at a loud talker level of loudness.

#3190 8 months ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Use this https://pu-parts.com/assembly-blades and it will Not Happen again. I think Terry has them also

I bought these from Terry (Pinball Life) and they are … ok … but the thickness of these might not fit with the blades also. I was supposed to get my pin today but FEDEX gave me the "weather delay" excuse, so now I get it on Friday. I'll see how they fit on it and report back then. They are tight on my ACDC Prem with thicker powerbladez and I have to wiggle them in there … if I remember to do that.

Quoted from darkryder:

I know the feeling. I tore one of the Tilt Graphics side blades after installation on my POTC and now the game only has one blade installed (ugh). Need to reorder another $80 set and try again. Also ripped my Pingraffix AC/DC and BSD blades, but not as badly as POTC and was able to fix and tape the ripped part back down. I started bending those metal playfield slider/bracket things inward slightly with a crescent wrench to keep them farther away from the cabinet sides. Frustrating to blow $80 a pop on these things and then rip them doing something as simple as lowering the playfield

Pic on how you bent them please? Interested ...

#3306 8 months ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Did you order through pinballstar? I have #800 coming and I believe #900 was a choice I had as well. Still waiting on mine. Shipping tracking shows the last movement was 1/25/2019. I haven’t heard anything since. Glad to hear yours is trouble free. Is the topper centered?

Mine got delivered Friday. The FEDEX guy said that the local distribution was shut down Tues - Thursday because of the cold in our region. I originally was scheduled for a Tuesday delivery. Mine was sitting at the distribution center for 6 days. Your shipment might have gotten caught up in that shutdown.

#3307 8 months ago
Quoted from Crile1:

They look great. Guess my cabinet is tighter for some reason. I tried twice (repaired them and tried again). Oh well. Glad it is just mine.

You're not alone. I have held off on the blades because I didn't have my pin yet and wanted to see the gap. I already have a pinstadium set too. It doesn't look like I have any hope as it's rubbing the sides now.
20190202_192020 (resized).jpg20190202_192049 (resized).jpg

#3308 8 months ago

6 or 7 days of sitting in the polar vortex at the distribution center, possibly 4 of those days on the truck while FEDEX was shut down, 2 hours of it being in the 30 degree garage, waiting for help to get it downstairs, about an hour after that to get it in position with legs on, pop the backbox up and ... frost inside and out on the glass. I let it thaw and worked on some issues before powering it up. Yes Hell did freeze over, the Lions are not in the Super Bowl however, but things are thawing out now.

20190201_111804 (resized).jpg20190201_133248 (resized).jpg

#3316 8 months ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

Wow, I would give that a full day to warm up.

Quoted from LTG:

Ummm................... take the glass off so you don't trap all that moisture inside.
LTG : )

Ya, that was Friday. I took the glass off immediately and started to fix some of the issues / precautions that were already mentioned in this thread. No moisture was on the interior playfield or cabinet. It was probably just the cold glass meeting the heat of the room … maybe not. No frost was visible with what I could see while it was in the garage unboxed and still folded up. I had the playfield up and down quite a bit too. After about 3 hours of fiddling and fixing things, everything was room temp. I played 1 short game and found more things to fix mentioned in this thread. Didn't play another game for another full day. Still a few things to resolve.

#3369 8 months ago
Quoted from dnaman:

This is something else that I've wanted to replace since first seeing it; the 12" Ethernet patch cable running between
POTC06 Pop Bumper Area RGB LED Board (J601 Ethernet connector) to (J904 Ethernet connector) on POTC09 [Left Orbit &amp; Upper Targets RGB LED Board (large board with all of the Ethernet RJ45 ports on it)].
Have a look at yours to see if it is too tight. If so, replace it with a 2'. Cheap fix and removes the strain on those two connectors.
Pictures show; 1' patch, with closeup of two ends, then the 2' replacement patch cable, in place tied and the relief of the two ends [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Mine is super tight. Good to know that a standard Ethernet cable will work. I will do that. Thanks!

#3372 8 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Nice I'm super jealous now. Paired up with a Black Rose - so where's Hook and Stern's POTC to complete the collection?

The Ferrari and Ford GT are another nice pair (in the garage).

17
#3414 8 months ago

I can finally post my JJPOTC pin addition photo. I finally got around to installing the topper. Still some tweaking to do to get it right, but loving it! It's now on "the JJP side of the room".

28_20190206_193807 (resized).jpg
#3418 8 months ago
Quoted from Pinzzz:

How tall is your JJPOTC with the topper installed?
My LE arrives tomorrow!

Just measured - between 67 and 68 inches with the playfield at 6.5 degrees.

#3419 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Pretty respectable score for it not being “right” yet!

I just got that score tonight, before I put on the topper. I'm learning it … shoot the flashy lights first, then the solid lights. I've played the prototypes at many shows and play it on location where we are on a pinball league. But previous scores before owning were down below 400K, so I'm not really all that good. The more you play it without other noise around you, the faster you will learn and pick up on it. I got to 2 movie wizard modes in that game. A blast.

#3425 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Are the toppers centered now?

Not mine. Build date 1/15/19.

#3426 8 months ago
Quoted from Crile1:

You need to get the Hobbit Topper. My wife got it for my birthday because she said it looked lonely without it.
[quoted image]

I'm working on a design that will use the 3 Hobbit Weta Barrel dudes and have them slowly spin when the pop bumpers are hit and would continue a few seconds after the last pop bumper is hit, and hopefully some interactive lights with it. Just my own concept currently. Gotta talk to some people … got the barrel dudes, picked out the slow motors, now for the program.

off topic … sorry.

#3427 8 months ago
Quoted from Pinzzz:

Thanks, but...68” from the floor, to the top of the topper can’t be right?

Sorry, didn't have my glasses on. Between 87" and 88".

#3454 8 months ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Negative. The game number has nothing to do with production numbers.

There is a blue number stamped on the playfield that Jack told me was in consecutive order. Mine was playfield #0682 built on 1/15/19. Not sure if the CE's are included in that sequence or not. For DI, all 3 models still were numbered in order of production per Jack (same playfield).

#3490 8 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Ok lazy guy question. Is it possible to disable the Todays high score option in settings?

Lazy answer ... Yes!

#3504 8 months ago
Quoted from PiperPinball:

Another idea is to make an option for random selection of your character before the game starts and maybe a random selection of traits (like in MarioKart GP arcade). Use the spinning wheel graphic at the end of a game to randomly select your character in the beginning.
Also add some hidden 'special' characters that need to be unlocked during the game. (like in Mario Smash Bros).
-Dan

I did see a menu option for a forced random character selection at the start of the game. Probably intended for competition.

#3576 8 months ago

I found a unrecoverable ball search. An airball few into the chest and it couldn't find it and would not release any during ball searches. Turn the game off then back on. It ran another ball search with 3 balls in the chest and couldn't find them. Has anyone else seen this happen before?

20190209_220559 (resized).jpg
#3577 8 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I found a unrecoverable ball search. An airball few into the chest and it couldn't find it and would not release any during ball searches. Turn the game off then back on. It ran another ball search with 3 balls in the chest and couldn't find them. Has anyone else seen this happen before?
[quoted image]

By coincidence (I guess) the chest stopped releasing ball's. Next game after removing the balls from the chest, it would not release for chest multiball. Now I gotta figure out this one.

#3578 8 months ago

None of the 20v coils work now. Great.

#3581 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Dumb question, is the coin door open?

Nope, closed it when I tested each coil.

These 3 red fuse lights probably mean that they are blown. ? The ball searches blew them out? Not funny that my wife wants a replacement pin. Lots of issues with this one.

20190209_224340 (resized).jpg
#3583 8 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Red led means the fuse is probably good.

Closed the coin door (ironic with the last post) and all but a different 3 light up.

20190209_225326 (resized).jpg
#3586 8 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Which 3 are dark ?

F703, F710, F711

#3589 8 months ago

I check all 3 and they all have continuity. Pic is of the 703 fuse. Anything else I can check?

20190209_230606 (resized).jpg
#3590 8 months ago

Jumping the 703 fuse with the volt meter leads, I get no DC voltage.

#3592 8 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

And the fuse in 703 reads good outside the fuse Holder?

Yes, via the Ohm meter

#3593 8 months ago

The light for F712 is out also. That fuse checks okay with the Ohm meter also.

#3595 8 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Yeah 703 oversees (if you will) 712 also. That’s the other 20v dc line although on pirates that one is only used for one thing and the blue group isn’t used at all. But the connectors at J110 and J112 pin 1 should be sending the 20vdc out to the playfield.

I'll go out tomorrow and buy a fuse for 703 anyhow, just to say that I tried it. No voltage when I use the meter leads on each side of the fuse to jump it. I'll add it to my list for Steve, Butch, and LTG.

10
#3597 8 months ago

Okay … for anyone interested in my issue that was discussed for quite a few consecutive posts going back with pinballomatic, here is the conclusion to that issue. I went to 3 different hardware stores and no 6.3 amp fuses, closest I could find was 6.0 amp quick blow fuse. Figured that would be close enough at least for me to prove that the old fuse was fine. Installed the new fuse, same issue for no 20v power. The wiring diagram in the manual shows nothing between fuse 703 and the transformer. I inspected all of the wire and it looked fine. Wiggled the wire connector and wires on the board and it was fine. Started wiggling the wires down at the transformer and connector down there and initially nothing happened. But then all of a sudden the red lights turned on with a flash and faded out and this was occasionally repeatable. Switched to the original fuse, same thing happened. I unplugged the big connector coming off of the transformer and found that one of the middle yellow wires pin connection was not seated into the connector very far, causing a likely intermittent connection. (Previously to this I had moved that wire to troubleshoot a headphone harness issue, but never pulled on it.) It took a bit of effort with the wire buckling, but I got that pin back in there and felt it click. The other wires were then buckling a bit because they were tie wrapped that way. A little straightening of the wires for the tie wraps was needed. I put the connectors back together, turned on the power, and all looks okay now. So this is an experience to note in case you run into something similar. Also note that the 6.3 amp fuses are not readily available at your local hardware. I'm going to order a few if/when I find them online, just in case. Guessing some of the other JJP pins use the same fuse for other things as well.

20190210_112823 (resized).jpg

20v_PowerIssue (resized).JPG
#3963 8 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

I would love them in clear. I always like to use plastic protectors but want clear. Any chance of that?

FYI - I spoke directly with the ulekstore couple last week at a pinball shindig about having some clear plastic protectors made. He has a friend that has the game and was going to work on it. I encourage you to PM them to show the interest in the clear (or smoked, or both). Help us all out by showing the interest and not just wait in the background for it to happen. With some of the RGB lighting under the plastics, I think that the clear would be great and possibly the edges would change color with the RGB lighting under them. Likely a true enhancement to the lighting. Just my opinion.

#4049 8 months ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

4) Can't believe no one is making plastic protectors in clear, only found colored plastics so far....anyone had any luck finding clear ones??

PM ulekstore to be on the wait list for clear. He told me that he was working on them.

1 week later
#4625 7 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

I ordered them before I placed my order for the game this week lol. I'll be installing them before I play the first game.
Is a shooter eject Cliffy such as that from Pinbal necessary on Pirates with the two rails going all the way into the shooter lane?

Cliff told me "no", not needed. I kind of question that myself. Ordered a week ago ... waiting for the cliffy set to arrive.

#4727 7 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Cool I like this method for sure. Wish that was the case for hooking up other games too.
Anyone else use the pinnovators kit as I am going to have 3 games in total once my MBRLE shows up and it might be nice to have all 3 hooked up to one sub and their PINsub Multisystem kit seems to do the job. Just have to hack some wires to go from the cab to the 3.5mm jacks on the kit.

Catching up on this thread. Lots of posts today. For the Pinnovators sub mixer, they recommend sending the sound down both the right and left channel for best results. For this pin I did something different. I tapped off of the speaker tabs, but feed both channels of the 3.5mm Pinnovators wire using a gadget from Amazon. Working great, solid connection.
20190227_204818 (resized).jpg

#4729 7 months ago

Dup

#4732 7 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Do you have a link to the connector from Amazon?

Nearly impossible to copy a link from the Amazon phone app. Anyway … here ya go:
amazon.com link »

#4754 7 months ago
Quoted from DerGoetz:

You can go with high (amplified) load into the Pinnovator SubMix?
http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26&amp;products_id=58&amp;osCsid=v0j72l1pmjm6r49kb93549pu30
Usually I go in with the preamp signal path, not the amp out.
Or are you running this in the path as well:
http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=84

Yes, their original instructions for tapping into WOZ and Hobbit were for tapping into the post amp side as well. I didn't see their new gadget in the second link. Probably does the same thing as what I did with Pirates. If I would have known, I might have bought that ... next time. Their sub mixer works well with the Polk 10".

#4763 7 months ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

Not on here, ball stuck in chest. First ball shot in there, stuck close to the entrance not in the first ball lock position. Also vuk to the upper play field constantly firing and not moving the ball at all.
Anyone else find it almost impossible to get the play field back in position with the lock down brackets in? The tightest I’ve ever seen by far. Do people cut the zip ties for the cables bunches in the back to give a little more room?

I found that it is better for me to push the playfield only partially back, then reach in and move the large loom on the right off of the power coming in enclosure and slide the loom as far right against the cabinet wall as I can, then push the playfield in the rest of the way. It helps, but it's still a little snug for that last drop in place.

1 week later
#5235 7 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

The build date of the LE that I'm set to have delivered is 2/11. Do you guys think that's ok to go with or I should wait for a later build date? Another owner with a build date of 2/4 noticed that the subway fix was already done to his game from the factory. Just wondering if there's anything else I should wait for? I'm not even sure if I can get a later build date at this point.

Pull the trigger! Buy it. We like similar pins … so believe me, you will not regret it.

#5253 7 months ago

Lost my 70v power. Traced it down to the connector falling off on the door switch. The curved part of the connector doesn't grip on the switch blade tab. It would not stay on. I crimped the connector curved part a bit and now it stays on. Check yours the next time you lift your play field. Might have some more loose connectors out there in the batch.

20190307_195426 (resized).jpg
#5444 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I play Pintel quite a bit right now, as he gets me to Arrr Frenzy fastest. I also like going random (hold left, hit right 5x quickly) and playing the game based on the character I end up with. Swann sucks! What a bore, his only buff/debuff is no plundering/can’t plunder.

Does that method of random selection make the character selection relatively even per character? I have just been choosing whichever one pops up first and read what their advantage is to try to learn what to shoot for and what works best, but that always seems to pick a character at the top half of the list. I didn't get a selection at the bottom half of the list unless I selected them manually - just because they were never popped up first. Just curious as how it chooses … if you noticed any pattern.

#5595 7 months ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Just ordered a Capt Jack toy. Tortuga Tom's days are numbered.

I ordered 2 of them. The first one was the Tortuga Jack, but I liked the other version that people have better so I eventually found/bought that one too. Waiting (for a month) for my cliffys to do it all at once. I wonder what these toy collectors are thinking on the big demand for them all of a sudden ... and would like to see their reaction if they found out that we were cutting them in half.

#5766 7 months ago
Quoted from Ben41:

CHEST MULITBALL
u cant activate the chest lock any more ... has anybody an idea ? JJP ? what says the code ? BUG ?

Yes - if you go back several pages or search for posts by Keefer (the lead game programmer), he posted that the bug will be fixed in the next software release.

1 week later
#6078 7 months ago

Leg light ups, logo projector, and wave projector, coin door plaque display added. Still a lot of mods to add but thought that this looked pretty good and wanted to post it. I know mods aren't for everyone.

20190324_200840 (resized).jpg
Without the waves

20190324_200428 (resized).jpg
#6096 7 months ago
Quoted from dnaman:

My game is playing beautifully but I am going to have to call JJP about my sound issues which persist. I have tried the couple of suggestions way back in the thread with resetting audio connectors etc... but they have not resolved the issues.
Between the sound popping/clicks (no not the loud initial pop on power up) and the audio which seems to sort of cut out, it is enough to bother me. I've had a couple people notice it without me mentioning it.
I will go back and see if there were other suggestions.

Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Unplug the headphone jack harness from the bottom right corner of the motherboard. You have to do it there - not from the front board by the door. Unplug at motherboard, leave unplugged, play game and evaluate then

If unplugging the headphone jack harness solved the popping and noise cut outs (like it did for me), check to see if your harness runs down the left bottom hole in the backbox. If so, check to see if it is tie wrapped to the power connector to the boards on the inside of the backbox (like mine was). Cutting that tie wrap helped "a little". I routed a new harness down the right side and still had the problem, but a lot less. Without it tie wrapped down, if I moved the harness around in the bottom cabinet, it would change. Butch had advised me to keep it away from the green/white power lines and transformer, but it does have to cross over at one point and he advised to elevate the harness over the power where possible. I went as far as to purchase a EMI protected sheathing for the harness ... still have the popping/dropouts - that was a fail. I plan on routing the harness along the right side panel, but low enough to not interfere with raising the playfield, then cross over to the left side of the playfield half way up to the speaker. If the harness gets close to the speaker, the popping will get worse also. I'm just posting so you know that you are not alone with this one (that is a real head scratcher), and some of the extreme things that I have tried. Play with the harness routing and you will probably see a difference - good or bad.

#6097 7 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

You may need a group loop noise isolator. JJP included them with some of their past games but doesn't with their latest (not sure on Pirates). If you are having sound popping / crackling issues it can help. JJP may send you one for free as long as it's under warranty. If not they are fairly cheap on Amazon.
amazon.com link »

This was already installed from the factory on my game, played with it in different ways and was not the problem in this particular case with my similar problem.

#6113 7 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

Which wave projector did you use? I bought one on Amazon and it wouldn't keep its settings every time I turned it off and on again. I'm looking for another one.

I probably got the same one as you - doesn't save the settings and have to turn off the sound, and change it to the blue wave every time too. I'll likely only use it for party type gatherings.

#6290 6 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Lol, yeah. Thanks! I've got a bunch of cool mods from you guys to install on it. Cliffys just arrived today as well, may install those first thing.

When did you order the cliffys? I ordered mine a month ago and didn't get them yet. He didn't respond to an email I sent a couple of days ago.

#6292 6 months ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Same here, my display still sags even when fully latched in. I fiddled with it for a good 30 minutes. Will try some small wood blocks to hold it up for now. Frustrating...

First I measured the distance to the bottom of the monitor on the left side, then cut a 2x2 to be the same length and stuck it under there on the right side. But later after looking at it more … All I did was loosen the 4 screws that hold the back of the monitor to the black monitor pivot bracket, raised the right side of the monitor as far as I could with the slop in the holes, and tighten them down while in that position. That fixed it for me. I took out the block and it has been fine ever since. I have to do the same with my DI … when it gets my tinkering attention again.

#6294 6 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Probably a month ago as well, maybe a bit longer. Sounds like he's been really busy.

Okay, I will bug him for an update. Thanks.

#6354 6 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Is this odd?....
Yesterday, I was playing a one player game. I just drained ball #2 and accidentally hit the start button. It added a second player with 3 balls. Can't you usually only add players during ball 1 on most games? Maybe I've just never done that before.

That is the reserve ball setting. Someone can join the player rotation at any time - up to 4 players of course. If in a multi-player game and you get an extra ball, you don't play that ball until it is your turn again. Once one player runs out of balls, just the other players remain in the game. High score initials still have to wait until the end of the last player's last ball.

You can turn off that setting if you wish to.

#6705 6 months ago

Revisiting the sling posts issue ... I bought the star post replacements as preventative precaution and found that mine has clear washers installed the same size as the posts. My build date is 1/15/19. Just an FYI. I replaced the posts anyway.

20190403_195515 (resized).jpg
#6709 6 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Is this a sign if improved QC?

Yes. More recent pin newborns had metal washers though. I just wanted owners with pins near the same build date as mine to know they may have clear washers that aren't noticeable because they are the same size as the post.

#6796 6 months ago
Quoted from heni1977:

When putting key posts at the beginning of the thread, does this need to be done by the op?
We could definitely use some more key posts since this thread is becoming longer by the minute!!

I'd say not to start an "owners club" thread if you're not going to help manage the key posts. Maybe if a "owner" is one of the moderators, they could help with that. ???

#7157 6 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Hate to say it but its longer than that 2 months at this point. I ordered several things back in early Feb still waiting.
Love Cliff, love his products but he needs some expert helpers.

Great needed accessories, but he does fall behind because of the big demand. I ordered early Feb and just yesterday got a notice that mine shipped, so your's should be shipped soon as well. Cliff should hire some Oompa Loompas or something for some help.

#7184 6 months ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

That's unfortunate. Pirate's high quality of gameplay deserves a more upbeat discussion.

Well … there's this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/simple-explanations-of-basic-goals-in-jjp-s-pirates-of-the-caribbean

#7240 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

The audio clipping seems minimal...or better.
And what I mean by that is just a hint of static here and there.
Is no one really experiencing this whatsoever?

Yes, a few of us as posted earlier in this thread. If you unplug the headphone cable inside the backbox and it goes away, try to route it away from the green and white power wires in the base cabinet.

1 week later
#7578 6 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Don't know if anyone caught it but Jack confirmed on Kaneda's podcast that they made at least 1000 POTC total.

Whoever receives a pin this week, look under the playfield for a blue stamped number near the drain/trough and report what number that is. Mine was 0682 made on 1/15/19. Those are stamped sequentially based on the production order - per what Jack told me at the factory. That will give you an idea for the number produced.

#7686 6 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

That's it for me, for now...until the Cliffy's arrive.

Nope. Just joking ...

#7744 6 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Want to do something cool with this. Any suggestions?[quoted image]

Get it signed by Eric and the JJP team and back light it in a frame.

20190321_202739 (resized).jpg
#7751 6 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

That's cool. Do they sell frames like that?

Yes - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lit-frames-led-backlit-translite-frames
The Hobbit and DI turn out to be a little washed out because of the material JJP used for the translates, WOZ turns out fantastic. JJPOTC is pretty good with it dimmed down a bit. DI can be adjusted to be acceptable.

#8182 6 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

The blue stamps on the bottom of the playfield though....are an entirely different matter.
I think I'm 0718.

Correct - Jack said that those were sequential numbers on the factory floor. Whoever got a new game recently from the line should look at that blue stamped number on the bottom of the playfield and report what it is. Mine is 0682 made back in January.

#8184 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I am willing to bet those blue numbers are playfield numbers stamped by Mirco, and have no meaning to production order or quantity.
However many copies of JJPOTC were made, we can all agree it wasn't enough

Jack told me that they stamped that number at the factory - for the work order of what the game should be, if it has radcals, playfield protector, etc.

#8365 5 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Out of curiosity, for the right outlane save, do you have rubber on one or both of the posts. If only one, is it the upper or lower?

Neither - I removed the rubber. That is the way that Eric had them setup for the prototype pins and was his general intent (at that time at least). He said that it would ship with the rubber on the top post and could be switched or removed, depending on preference. I like to play it the way his intent was for it. You have to nudge to save it still.

#8486 5 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I have a short in this spotlight. When I wiggle the wires it goes on and off. The shaker motor seems to shake it enough to make it stop working. How can I tighten the wires in it?
[quoted image]

Mine just started doing that last weekend too.

Quoted from zaphX:

I had the same thing. Pull the bulb straight out. Bend the wires away from the base. Wrap e-tape on the base then bend the wires back over it. Worked like a champ.

Thanks for the tip. I wiggled the bulb and it comes back on for half a game, then goes out. I'll try this.

#8623 5 months ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

That definitely is way too long to wait. Stern gets it out much faster than That! New GB code came out in 2 days if I recall!

I think panzerfreak said it was like about 4 days.

#8934 5 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Not exactly sure I understand the worry? Your door is wider then the backbox so go for it! Clear is close enough even if its only a 1/2". My basement door is a 30" and never had an issue Carefully getting it through. As an added security, you can Easily remove the door stops on your door frame to get another 1/2" clearance. Way easier then removing the back box. Good Luck!!

This is what I have to do. Fairly easy, but the door stops are fairly loose now after 10 games went downstairs. Re-using the same nail holes as much as possible so that it doesn't turn into Swiss cheese. I plan on widening that door/framing ... some day, so I'm not too worried about it.

#9285 5 months ago

Does anyone else have this out of character bright green star always on in their star field - bottom left corner? Assuming that might be a board LED. Is there a way to clear it or get rid of it?

20190514_200816 (resized).jpg

#9341 5 months ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Although I've been waiting for my Cliffys before I played my 1st game, I couldn't resist temptation. I've decided to play a few games. Even though I don't have a clue as to what I'm doing, I can see what all the fuss is about.
Holy cow!!!....this machine is going to be FUN!!!

Sooooo ... do you have the clear plastic protectors ready for us yet?

#9361 5 months ago

I found a bug for pinball_keefer. I was playing a pretty good game (700+K at the time), hit the map award triple disc animation and it awarded me the lit extra ball. Before the extra ball animation completed, the ball shot out and down the "P" lane as normal. I shot it and it ricocheted right back into the map hole still before the extra ball animation completed. The 3 disc animation came on again and awarded me the lit extra ball again even though it wasn't lit anymore - 2 extra balls. Guessing this is not supposed to happen that way. That map award is probably pretty rare, and me making that shot again before the animation completes is pretty slim to none, so this would be a very rare occurrence.

Great code, great design, great animations, great sounds and music, … great game!

1 week later
#9723 4 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Check your bulb, small red light in front right side of chest.
I’ll try to photo it but looks like it’s in the front right corner when viewed from playing position.
It isn’t super bright but it is there and noticeable.

Quoted from heni1977:

Wow thats the first time I noticed it! There it is in the chest.[quoted image]

We all really need to gang up for a request to pinball_keefer to turn up the intensity on that light. I never noticed it either and was going to get the mod to light up the chest. It's there already ... just a little too dim. I'm sure it's likely just a simple code adjustment to make that brighter.

#9847 4 months ago

Those gifs also show that the LED in the chest does change color (RGB) and doesn't just beat with the red when the lock is ready (from previous discussions here). I've seen it be green during game play. Just wish it was brighter or had a better effect in the chest, especially for the red when ready for a lock.

#10164 4 months ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Mostly I lost the genetic lottery in terms of family heart disease history and being type 1 diabetic for 32 years which led to a heart attack.[quoted image]

Oh man … we all wish you well. Glad you're feeling better again. Take care with all of those blood thinners. Once you are fully back, all of those wild and crazy ideas you thought of while you were bored can come to life. Until then, your health comes first.

1 week later
#10481 4 months ago
Quoted from dts:

Thank you! My autolaunch is actually perfect. I just wanted to escape the locker into the shooter lane more easily, so I moved the post rubber to the other post, which was bare for some reason. I'm guessing on purpose for owners to adjust the ease of saving the ball.

Eric had all of the original prototypes without any rubbers on the out lane posts. At the time he had said it would ship with a rubber on the right side mostly for the purpose of location pins, but he preferred it without any. That's the way we setup ours - the way the game designer liked it. Right side - too hard to save. Left side - maybe a little too easy to save. None - just right.

#10630 4 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Or get the load cannon light (green arrow) lit on the Black Pearl and then skill shot to advance it to the next step. Very simple concept. COTBP MB requires steps:
1) Raise Sails (spinners to light stand up targets)
2) Load Cannon (stand up targets to light green arrow)
3) Sink ship (load ball &amp; fire while arrow lit)
4) Shoot Port Royal to start MB (insert flashing)
Whichever step you’re currently on, the skill shot will advance you to the next step.

I'm guessing that the qualifying rules for COTBP are the same as the prototype JJPOTC's. eaglepin is correct with this, but … each qualifying attempt gets a little harder. According to what Eric told me (playing a game with him on a prototype), it's kind of like a 3 point shot in basketball. The 3 point shot is the cannon bulls eye shot that sinks the ship. The other possible qualifiers are worth 1 point - hitting the side of the ship or BP skill shot. For the first COTBP MB you need a total of 3 points with those combinations to be fully qualified for MB. The next COTBP MB you need a total of 4 points. The next 5 points, and so on.

#10647 4 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

yelobird tells me that hundreds have this and not a problem. So you must be in the minority with Harry and myself. Give yelobird a yell. He was very helpful with me.

I haven't installed mine yet. Going to do all the mods when I have the time to do the Cliffys also.

#10746 4 months ago
Quoted from steigerpijp:

My own Personal mod.. I had so many balls jump the maelstrom I made this plastic and extended the rock into a Splash out section.
The kraken is now also in , cut away some material, before applying the final texture to make the rock match the devil triangle[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'd buy one of those clear plastic retainers to go around the maelstrom ...

#10799 4 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Ok let see if I remember all of this.
Curse of the black pearl wiz mode
Goal to retrieve 886 pieces of gold. Best way to collect the gold is via spinners and after 120~ gold you have to shoot a lt shot to change locations. Mode ends when all pieces are collected.
Dead mans chest wi mode.
Goal hit a bunch of inner loops while keeping “tentacles down”. If you can hit the loops fast enough you do not have to worry about fighting off the tentacles. After 18~ loops you get to kill the kraken. Do not remember but pretty sure it’s 18 loops then star map shot to finish
Devil’s Triangle wiz mode
Goal hit 5-6 lits shots before timer runs out. Also missing shots count against you on this one. Miss 3-5 shots and mode ends. This one is easy as all it is is hitting a few shots to end mode.
At worlds end wiz mode.
Goal is to try to get to the upside down. Starting mode half of play field is red half is blue. You are trying to get the ship to turn over. Blue shots progress this and red shots hinder this. Every correct shot you make the colors swap. So after hitting a blue shot all of the red shots become blue and the blue shots no one red. Hit the correct shot 5-6 times and the ship fully turns over. Can’t remember if there is 1 more shot after doing that to complete mode.
Last but not least. Fountain of youth wizard mode. This is the most in depth wiz mode currently in game. Mode starts with 5 lit shots. You must hit all 5 shots in like 30 seconds to advance. After hitting the 5 shots I think it was shoot a inner loop shot. After that was done you had to shoot stat map to end mode. I don’t remember the actual shots it asked for but when you do mode the first 5 shots are lit. Then the shots it asks for after first part are shown in the bottom right of screen.
Hopefully this helps

Sounds like this subject would be a good JJPLive segment with the glass off with Keith and Eric showing/explaining the wizard modes.

1 week later
#10945 3 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Shannon over at JJP priced out the ramps for me - expensive!
Maelstrom Ramp (fully populated) $254.99
Mini PF Access Ramp (fully populated) $505.12
Maelstrom (ramp/decal only) $121.90
Mini PF Access (ramp/decal only) $178.77

I was thinking about getting those for spares ... I guess not for a while.

#11090 3 months ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

My wonderful wife made a nice frame for my LE certificate that matches the game. I think it looks great.[quoted image][quoted image]

She should sell them ... or the matting for them.

#11117 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

The physical WOZ manual is a REALLY nice book. I don't know if this would come with other manuals but it has a photo section of the making of the machine, pricing cards in nice quality color printing, etc. It's nice to have handy to put near the machine, open to the page I need, etc. versus having to lug my laptop and find a place to set it without knocking it over. That being said, I think it's a nice gesture to have the manual with each game (considering the price of the games) but not necessary.

I agree with this. It's easier to reference while working on the game. And ... a pic of my wife & I are in the back of the JJPOTC manual, so we HAD to have it for bragging rights to our friends on how geeky we are with pinball. Ya know ... to get the eye roll look from them.

1 week later
#11308 3 months ago
Quoted from dannunz:

If you guys want to see some never before seen pictures and great commentary from Eric on the making of POTC go here and see his seminar at Pintastic 2019.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1hsYk9HhlG9AxvS2IgaUkA

Watched it tonight. Very interesting.

1 week later
#11459 3 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

So, that's the prototype?

You can see the triple rings on the one on the left.

Quoted from Yelobird:

Because one is very special and worthy to be kept safe for many years

Is that one stuck on the same old code for eternity? Or did they make some special provisions in the code for the mechanisms to still work with the new code? That prototype would be cool to have (as a second JJPOTC).

#11474 3 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

1.0 is still coming, I wouldn't hold out hope for more theme integration though. I believe it to be a license limitation.

Eric said in his pintastic presentation that when they went for Depp scenes, it was going to cost about $100K per movie so about $500K more, and they were already over-budget for the pin, so that didn't happen. I'm okay with it as it is, but a few Depp scenes would have been good. It's still one of the best pins made in my opinion.

1 week later
#11627 81 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Are you sure it's not just a bad connection with the bulb to the socket? It's very common. Try the electrical tape fix.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights#post-4402506

I tried that. The bulb lens fell/broke off. I tried a couple of bulbs … one was way too dim, the other flickered even with the electrical tape. I have to keep adjusting it or let it just sit there and bug me, turning on occasionally. There has to be a better way or solution. I need the correct bulb too … or one "slightly" dimmer. It doesn't need to be that bright up there on the bp with a bad reflection in the back glass shining back at you. I installed some bent plastic to cut down on the spot light reflections.

Ahhh … there … vented on the topic for the thing that keeps coming back to annoy me too.

Love the game - one of the best (just so I don't come across as someone that chronically complains about the game).

3 weeks later
#11933 59 days ago
Quoted from anathematize:

I agree. This isn't a Stern vs. JJP issue and was never intended to go that way. Both places make fine games.
I just find it interesting to see how much attention Wonka is getting post-launch compared to Pirates post-launch (and now a year later).

Sure. But Pirates didn't get little bug fixes ever couple of weeks post-launch. Maybe JJP has changed their methodology to be more agile with the small updates as opposed to compiling them all into a larger comprehensive update.
Just an observation really. I think everybody wants to see 1.0 at this point.

A few of the most recent Wonka updates primarily are trying to fix a diverter issue via code. So these were little updates for game functionality. Wonka is Joe's first pin as a lead on code and is really trying hard. Pirate's next update is primarily Keith (it sounds like). He probably has to balance working on other new pins with timing deadlines. He has always come through for us with some big game changing updates for the better. Be patient ... and the wait will be well worth it. He is the best coder out there IMHO.

2 weeks later
#12109 41 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Also, is it normal for this wireform to be slanted like this?

Quoted from harryhoudini:

That ramp shouldn't be tilted, no. How's the top end of that near the BP? Is the BP clear ramp aligned now? Is the wireform inserted in to that ramp properly? If so, worst case you can use some channel lock pliers and a rag to bend that front mount a bit.

Don't do this ^^^ as the middle of the wire form will likely deform with the way it is designed. My attachment post was even bent.

I had the same issue. Is the wire form at the other end contacting the top of the twirling pop bumper under the ramp (LE) and also the top of the Tortuga scoop? I had that. I got another wire form and it was twisted the same way. To help resolve 2 of the 3 issues, I bent the right side wire form connection to the BP (bent it down maybe 1/8-1/4") using two sets of channel locks to not break the wire form connections to itself. Use a rag to protect the surface finish if you can. Be very careful with it though. I think a few of us got some wire forms that were twisted out of tolerance. On most pins, the wire form isn't touching the Tortuga scoop.

Just my input on it ...

#12119 41 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Yeah, one end or the other. I don't see how slightly bending the mounting tab would deform the middle. I'm just talking about the "foot" that sits on the plastic. And you can easily bend the middle back in to shape as well with your hands. Maybe I just man handle mine more than others, lol.

The foot wasn't the problem with mine. When I removed the nut from the (bent) post, the wire form twisted up even more. Bending the foot would just put even more stress on the post to bend it more (in my case at least). Twisting the wire form into shape (if possible without breaking the structure welds) would cause the wire form to interfere with the Tortuga scoop even more. I'm sure that it's "possible" to man handle the wire form enough to make it work, but what I was seeing is that the result would cause the ball to fall off of the wire form. It was a no win solution for me going that route. Even what I did with bending it at the BP connection is not ideal, but it works. It still is slightly bent at the bottom, but only I really notice it.

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Did you get a free replacement from JJP?

What I did (and advise you to do also just in case) is use the photo you have, take another one with the post attachment disconnected showing that it twists even more and that it is not the post connection that is causing it. A side by side photo showing the twisting comparison with and without it attached would be a good visual. Then take photos of the clearance or contact at the Tortuga scoop, and at the top pop bumper and BP connection. Send that to Steve at JJP and ask for advise on how to resolve the issue. If he suggests trying to man handle the wire form, go for it. But to keep the warranty valid in case you break it, have him direct you to do it first. Steve may just send you another wire form as a warranty issue if it is twisted as much as mine was. CC your distributor on all of the communication emails so that he can help to move things along if need be.

#12154 40 days ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

I know I’m a day behind. I had this same issue. Contacted jjp and they sent me a new wireform. New one was similar to the old one twisted left and was not parallel to outlane. New one also did not match up to the holes on the bp which led me to the conclusion that every single wireform can be slightly different. I was able to get mine adjusted by bending the the wireform where it goes into the bp ramp. Bending 1 up and 1 down just a hair straightened out my ramp considerably. The last mm I got by putting a plastic washer under the wireform at the outlane post. I did ever so slightly crack the buckle plating on wireform when I did this, but I also had discussed it with jjp and was sent a new one. At that point I felt more comfortable bending the old one to get it right. If playing chipping ever becomes noticeable I plan on getting the wireform powdercoated

Yep, exact same here. Was yours built after the CEs (after last Christmas)?

#12250 34 days ago

The latest from Jack in a stream a few weeks back is the same as what they said back at the Texas show - They have no plans to make anymore Pirate pins, but those plans could change further on down the road. They have 3 new pins in line that they want to get out and the production schedule is full with those. Lloyd and Steve at JJP pretty much say that it's not going to happen. There's 10 pages of posts about it in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/will-jjp-make-more-potc

#12337 28 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Not sure how it's going to work out with the lip. Gonna have to play with it on and see. Can only print so thin.

I've got a cliffy on the way to protect the edge of the upper playfield. If you just need to add space to fill the gap, you might be able to just add a shim behind the cliffy on the side edge of that surface. Is that what you are after?

#12339 28 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I thought someone said cliffy wasn't going to make them?

He's making a batch of them. I put my order in last weekend (with the Bayou hole one too). He said the ones in the photos in the gallery from a week or so ago were just prototypes that someone was testing out for him. Since they were "approved", he's going ahead with them.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

I think it looks weird only being a partial piece. Figured the protection would be nice, finishing the edge, blending in with a color other than stainless, etc.

Make sure that you use a material can take a beating. I'll keep an eye out for how it it turns out.

#12363 26 days ago

With new code for DI and GB, I can see why JJPOTC people (me included) are jealous. The same kind of things were being said about TH and then Keith came through in a super big way with that update that took a while, but was well worth the wait. Keith likely has a lot on his plate and needs some dedicated time to think through the JJPOTC code and get back "into" it. Working an hour here and there on a big piece of code just doesn't let one dive into it. Hopefully he grabs some big blocks of time to dive back into it. His undivided attention to it would produce something great. It will happen - guessing within the next few months with the Wonka CE delays buying him some time. We should keep it to polite nudges instead of getting out-of-hand by jumping to conclusions that they abandoned the game and being upset about it … and pissing them off in the process as they rarely respond to stuff like that. Just a suggestion.

#12372 26 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'm sort of amazed that it's one dude doing all the coding, if that is the case. I can definitely commiserate with the block of time necessity, focus is paramount.

Keith didn't do all of the code for JJPOTC, but is the lead coder on that game. It's already been said by JJP people that Keith is the one working on the final wizard mode. Joe has been busy with being the lead on Wonka, and recently Ted was busy with trying to solve the video lag occasional issue in DI (might be fixed with the DI code released today). There might be a timing break in the coders timeline soon, depending on the new pin (GNR) demands.

#12380 26 days ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ah makes sense. Since you seem to know, do you know what language they write in? It seems like JJP has a "code base" they created with WOZ and reuse parts of it, yea? Wish there was more info out there about the programming aspects of modern games, but I assume a lot of that is kept under wraps.

I don't know. People have speculated that it is C++ plus a few auxiliary programs, but that is wild speculation. I think that at least parts of it are C++, but I could very well be wrong.

#12381 26 days ago
Quoted from arzoo:

They don't respond to anything. All they have to do is post "We have not forgotten POTC and we are working on it" and everyone would be happy to wait. But instead they remain silent while their customers (us) start speculating which is never good.

They use to respond quite often, but I'm purely guessing that JJP doesn't want them to get into defensive arguments on Pinside about the JJP product line and make statements about future games (obviously), play fields, hardware, software fixes, etc. Steve and LTG are on here quite a bit to help out with known fixes to problems. Keith will sometimes chime in on rules clarifications/questions that no one else knows. He also did tell us of future JJPOTC character changes (advantages/disadvantages) that he has implemented in future code, but not released yet - somewhere back in the key posts. The future update has been worked on, but it's probably not totally completed and/or tested. The code on this game with all of the weighting and multipliers is probably the most complex that JJP has put out. I look forward to the next update.

I'm sure JJP will make a statement about the code update at Expo, if it has not been released by then. If not, someone should ask at the JJP Expo Saturday evening presentation. I have to leave a couple of hours prior to that (bummer), otherwise I would ask. If I see Keith there while I'm there, I'll ask and see if he can make a statement on it and report back.

#12384 26 days ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

I was told by someone at JJ who shall remain nameless that the new official policy is for employees not to go on Pinside anymore because there is so much bashing. So whereas we used to have access to the people actually working on these machines, because of all the incredible hostility, the manufacturers aren’t going to come on here anymore. That’s a shame. I can’t say I blame them.

I kind of figured a decree something like that was made. We use to get some valuable information on the game and code from Keith, Ted, and Eric. That dried up months ago. They don't even do the JJP Live thing anymore. That takes a little bit away from the pin owner experience. It was always great to get "insider" information on the game, tweaks, tips, "why" they did things a certain way, etc.

I think they still occasionally lurk around here to see what we are complaining about now, or see some feedback on recent code released (on other JJP games currently). If not, that's even worse.

#12413 22 days ago

Here's the changes that Keith posted several months ago - bold is the new stuff we haven't got yet. This is a key post.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/186#post-4998088

#12445 17 days ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Could be that, something the author heard from JJP, or the comments Keith made a couple months back on a Wonka stream promising that a Pirates update is still coming.
Later this month at Expo JJP may be reveal their next pin. I'm hoping that new Pirates code will be at Expo but who knows. If JJP is prepping a new game all resources are likely on it...All I know is that I won't considering buying another JJP pin until Pirates code is completed.

I'll probably never get to the final wizard mode once it's added unless I start to nerf the settings. I've been to 2 chapter/movie wizard modes in one game a couple of times. However, I am looking forward to all of what Keith will be adding besides that final wizard as well. It's not like he/they haven't even started on it. Before the JJP Pinside excommunication decree, Keith did post some enhancements/polish that was already completed in the new code 4 months ago.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/186#post-4998088
Keith goes big with changes. It should be a good code update once they have it ready. Bottom line is that it has been worked on. The last code update was 4/23/19 so Expo would put it at about 6 months at that time. Lets not exaggerate how long it's been since a code update. It just "seems" longer. The above link was from 4 months ago.

#12449 17 days ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Do you work for jjp? How would you know that it has been started other than a post from 4 months ago. Just because a post was made that outlined a few character changes does not mean that anything has been started other than a few words in a forum. Meanwhile since our last update every other jjp machine has had updates including bigger ones that changes scoring and overall feel of the game. These games were already feature complete and while they may of needed updates there should be 0 prioritization of older machines to get updates over incomplete machines. Meanwhile I have a 10k toy that does not even have basic features programmed into it yet. Like for example I would love set my machine to easy 5 ball for mom and sis so maybe they could get a legitimate high score (I’ll often put in their names on my games so every high score isn’t gnar) but this basic feature is missing. Once again if they would communicate what is going on this would not be an issue. Hell they could even push an update that changes small thing and the argument would be over. But at this point a small update would just piss people off cause it’s been what 6 months since the last update that changed minor things and added things that don’t even reliably work (yes I’m talking about eyepatch parrot thing)

If you're directing that at me - No, I don't work for JJP, but do own all of their pins and have seen many JJP code updates over the past years and I use to volunteer to beta test new code. They don't ask for volunteers anymore and just have their set few people that do their testing. (I think previously the beta volunteers revealed too much before the code release in all of the excitement.) I can't find the source for proof, but I remember Keith or Eric had stated in a post, stream, or presentation at a show that Keith wanted to include the final wizard in with the rest of the .99 update but it wasn't ready yet. The updates to the characters that Keith posted 4 months ago was in response to people complaining about the weighting of advantages/disadvantages with the characters to show that it's already been addressed in the next update. Keith's health (and leave for recovery) gave a delay in the final wizard code that he was working on (per Eric). JJP wanted Wonka to have "complete" code at production. Over the summer, DI and Wonka needed investigation and code tweaks for functionality (in my opinion on that) and that would be higher priority than new modes if I was in charge of priorities.

Not looking to argue or defend JJP, just want to state what we do know that's not just rumor. Since it is rumored for JJP to not be able to respond to complaints or questions on their future products/code, we likely wont hear anything until the new code is released. Two more weeks and we will likely hear something from JJP at Expo. We at least can look forward to that.

1 week later
#12627 4 days ago

.

#12636 4 days ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Read some rumors in another thread that Keith may talk about new Pirates code at Expo. JJP's seminar is tomorrow night. Fingers crossed for some Pirates code update news!

I saw Joe at the show yesterday and I asked about the code. He was pretty vague but said that the code WILL happen, so don't worry about that. He wasn't sure about when. So relax, it's not abandoned.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 43.00
Lighting - Interactive
Hookedonpinball.com
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Redmond, WA
$ 26.50
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
From: $ 175.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Photos
$ 41.25
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
13,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Canfield, OH
$ 189.00
9,800
Machine - For Sale
Melbourne, VIC

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider kingbw.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside