(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!

By goren1818

4 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

20 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #222 Liar's Dice rules explained! Posted by goren1818 (3 years ago)

Post #644 Rules flow chart Posted by Rbviessman (2 years ago)

Post #1021 How to fix black pearl lamps Posted by Yelobird (2 years ago)

Post #1360 Black Pearl flippers are uneven when in upper position - Fix Posted by evh347 (2 years ago)

Post #2468 Hardware fix for balls getting hung up during multiball. Posted by Pinballpal (2 years ago)

Post #2892 Adjustment for auto plunger not hitting balls cleanly or correctly Posted by Pinballpal (2 years ago)

Post #3974 Deadflip stream from Valentine’s Day 2019. Posted by Tuna_Delight (2 years ago)

Post #4014 POTC trouble shooting guide Posted by zaphX (2 years ago)

Post #4856 Possibly let distributor go through machine and get it tuned in. Posted by dgposter (2 years ago)

Post #6315 Fix for dauntless positioning, canon shots not landing Posted by Yelobird (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#167 3 years ago

I’m a day-1 preorder and was told late October or November now, but that was just a guess. I was told they’re currently doing a big overseas run and then they are going to start on US runs in October and beyond. My distributor informed me that ‘JJP still haven't fulfilled day 1 orders from October 2017 as they have barely started shipping as yet except for distributor show games and some locations for the most part FYI’.

#195 3 years ago
Quoted from solarvalue:

For the people waiting, just curious, how much have you paid? Is it just the $250 deposit at this point?


#228 3 years ago

1) Can anyone explain the 4 rum bottle inserts over by the pop bumpers with the ‘?’ on them and how they are implemented in gameplay? I thnk they have something to do with the bumpers and increasing their level of the mystery award...but I’m not sure.

2) How does one score jackpots during tortuga multiball?

3) Also, is the ‘open sea’ shot for starting ‘break the curse’ wizard mode?

2 weeks later
#374 3 years ago
Quoted from NickBuffaloPinball:

Can someone explain how "Super X" works?

Devs, feel free to correct me, but this is what I’ve learned watching the streams over the last year...You asked specifically about Super X, but I’ll answer your question with a general guide on earning awards:
Bonus X = End of Ball Bonus
Shot X = Your next shot value is multiplied by that number
Super X = Everything on the playfield is multiplied (timed mode)

1) Select your pirate award on the action button
2) Lock in your award by rolling over and lighting the P-I-R-A-T-E lanes. One of the neat features is that the color of the lanes corresponds to the color of the award you chose on the action button. In some ways, you always know what pirate award you’re going after based on the color of the lanes/action button. (Ex. ‘Super X’ is purple)
3) Hit the pirate standup target to earn the award....but, with bonuses, there is one more step to getting it....
4) Now hit one of the available lit x2, x3, etc... standup targets to earn that bonus amount. NOTE: in order to light the larger x4, x5, and x6 amounts, you need to have lit the pirate lane awards and earned them a few times, so if it’s your first time lighting all of the pirate lanes, don’t expect to be able to get x6 playfield bonus.

Basically, all of the possible pirate lane awards are earned via steps 1-3 similarly, with final step 4 being specific to the award. (Ex. with Liar’s Dice, you must finally shoot the Liar’s Dice lane).

Hope that helps.

#376 3 years ago
Quoted from NickBuffaloPinball:

So with Shot X, once you collect it from pirate, say you hit the 2x standup. Then, the very next shot, and only the very next shot you hit, will be 2x it's value?

Yes, I believe so. I think Super X is the only timed bonus. The really crazy scores happen when you get multiple multipliers stacked. There’s a way to hold your end of ball bonus over as well.

1 week later
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#1203 2 years ago

I am in the club...finally! Weather on the east coast delayed my delivery until after Thanksgiving.

-I had a couple switches that needed adjustment out of the box, no big deal at all. The leg bolts were already threaded for me, no issues.
-Had one connector in the backbox that I discovered unplugged during the unboxing and pre-power-on inspection. Re-seated and no issues.
-Lockdown bar lever is a little stiff compared to my other games, it requires some effort to move it.
-My far left upper playfield lantern LED is not seated correctly and therefore is not distributing light evenly like the other three lanterns. I will have to consult Yelobird's tutorial on fixing that.

Quoted from dnaman:

First time I've experienced both displays going out while the pin was on and staying out (displayed were powered but lost video/display signal). I was in-game at the time. Restarted and video came up immediately (FYI for any similar occurrences)

I did have both displays go out while goofing around in the settings>game settings menu...all of a sudden both screens had no video. Could still hear sounds associated with input on the settings buttons inside the coin door. I powered off and on and it resolved itself.

Anyone know where the wheel motor test is? My wheel tests okay, just can't find it in the settings.

IMG_6627 (resized).jpgIMG_6629 (resized).jpg
#1204 2 years ago

Hey Yelobird, what is the deal with the hangman mod?

I tried mounting on the screw above the right slingshot like your site says, but if you notice...its just slightly different. And because of that, it rubs against the glass so I had to angle it at about 30 degrees just so the glass would clear it. Am I doing something wrong?

IMG_6630 (resized).jpg[email protected] (resized).png
#1207 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Very sorry I forgot to update that image. Yes, we made a change early on from feedback that it covers the Escape exit to much so we made it taller and it correctly mounts to the screw just above that one towards the top of the exit lane. Will clear fine from there and does not effect site of escape. Will update pics. Game look awesome Congrats!! PM me if you have Any issues![quoted image]

Ok thanks! That makes sense now.

#1216 2 years ago

Eric’s team has been asked about those Disney assets before and the answer was always the same. I guess they offered Disney ‘the moon’ but Disney said no. The movies are literred with rum and sword fighting, yet this game only has some rum bottles breaking, some inserts with rum graphics, pop bumpers that look like rum kegs, and a plastic pirate with his sword sheathed that spins. The first thing I imagined when I saw this game revealed was a ‘drunken pirate’ mode. Thank you Eric (and Devs) for what you did squeeze in there!

Sorry to disagree with you those of you on the music and movie clips. I have to say ‘THANK GOD’ they didn’t put the movie clips in there. If I wanted to watch the movie, I’d watch the movie. My biggest gripe of GOTG is the looping movie clips. And to see those over and over would drive me crazy.
I love the Hans Zimmer, Klause Badelt, and Geoff Zanelli theme music so much that I bought all of the soundtracks on iTunes. But the fact that the devs went above and beyond at getting their composer, David Theil to create as much music as he did, all the variations paired with the different events being played out in-game...is one of my biggest appreciations of this game. The music sounds like it could be the soundtrack to a sixth movie (if they ever did one).

I will agree it might have been nice to hear the classic Disney ‘pirates life for me’ theme, curious why that wasn’t included since the lyrics are on the outline plastics.

#1229 2 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

And ... your PinGulps are in the wrong position.
Congrats - enjoy your POTC!

Haha....I intentionally installed them on the left leg. It's so I can drink and plunge at same time.

#1237 2 years ago

When exactly does the camera take your picture for a high score? I thought it would allow me to make a silly face as I hit the action button on END to enter my initials....but it seems to have captured my ugly non-staged expression.

#1245 2 years ago
Quoted from JordanB:

Pretty sure it takes it when you hit END, however it also uses facial detection, so if your face is too distorted to be recognized, it reverts to a picture taken earlier (when you're entering?)

You were correct. I just had to get a bit closer to the camera and now its taking pics as soon as you select the action button on END.

#1339 2 years ago

Are both upper flippers supposed to be even when triggered at the flippers? (both are being held at the time of this pic)

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#1360 2 years ago
Quoted from Procrastinator:

You need to tighten the nut that holds the flipper shaft in place. One of mine did the same thing, and I moved it into the correct position by hand then tightened the nut that clamps down on the shaft. It’s a little difficult on the right side of the ship, but if you pull the cotter pin in the back it’s doable without removing the ship.

Well you guys were correct. I didn't know which screw you were referencing, but I figured out its this one (see pic).
That's looking upward, underneath the upper right flipper on the ship. The nut was actually tight, but maybe not tight enough. I loosened it, allowed the flipper to spring backwards against the rubber stop and then tightened the nut again with a nut driver. The fix was really simple...but...

I pulled the ship out all the ways anyways. I didn't disconnect all of the wiring harnesses underneath because I was able to swivel the ship (VERY CAREFULLY) out of the way. There's stuff on top of the playfield that is in the way of maneuvering the ship off to the side and there's nowhere really safe to put it unless you disconnect the harnesses underneath the playfield. I wouldn't say removing the upper playfield ship is as easy as Eric says it is. Yes, it's just the hex screw behind the ship and the cotter pin from the arm behind the playfield...but, then there's the wiring harnesses underneath that are inconveniently zipped-tied very compactly...and its a challenge to find anywhere to safely place the playfield w/o resting it on some fragile plastics.

Question: In test now, my ship rocks full -right and -left, but it seems limited in rocking movement to the full-right position during play. Is that normal? Is the rocking motion/envelope dependent on character or mode?

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#1363 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The arm behind the back wall that hooks the playfield to the motor has two screws to adjust it. Be sure the arm isn't too tight or too loose.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd, I made the adjustment like you said. Seems better now, but I swear the full-deflection upper-playfield motion is mode-dependent. At the beginning of a new game, the boat rocks only a little. Then as game progress continues, the boat becomes much more lively. So I don't think anyone can completely judge the upper-playfield's motion until you get a bit into the game. I'm pretty sure that was the dev's intention anyways. So, in other words, the motion during test is legit.

#1364 2 years ago

Okay! I have another question...

Are 'On Stranger Tides' and 'Dead Man Tell No Tales' multi-ball designed to be a 2-ball multi-balls only?

#1376 2 years ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Soldering the wire back on worked for D04 EOS upper left playfield flipper.
There was also a brown/green wire I had to solder back to one of the black pearl bonus X switches. That was a bit confusing at first as the brown/green wire is daisy chained amongs switch 9,10,and 12 so it did not solder onto either of the switches that were not working (9&12), had solder onto the last one in the daisychain I believe switch 10.
Taking the ship out and tipping on its side is definitely a bit awkward.
I had have an old radioshack iron that is pretty awful and was not great.
Any recommendations on brand / model of soldering iron to get that works well for this type of tight quarters work?
[quoted image]

This is the iron I use:
amazon.com link »

And this is the tip I use:
amazon.com link »

#1415 2 years ago
Quoted from pickleric:

There's a new version of the manual out that does a good job of explaining the rules.

Can the electronic manual onboard the game be updated manually or is that a function of a code update?

#1425 2 years ago
Quoted from Hogbog:

If I read what you're asking correctly, the skull icon under the open cannon port indicates the currently selected chapter from that movie that you have qualified. I'm pretty sure it has the Chapter title displayed somewhere there, but I'm not currently in front of a game(I'm at a bar a mile from the factory, actually. I've been in Lakewood NJ getting the CEs off the line). If you shoot that movie's shot again, the skull will move one position to the right, indicating that you have changed that movie's qualified chapter to the next one. Each movie has 5 chapters pulled from it's pool of 25ish at the beginning of the game, and the skull indicates which one from that movie you currently have as the contender to start if you shoot Chapter Start. If you only have one movie lit, obviously the Chapter that skull is indicating is what you will start. If you have multiple movies lit, then it will be a toss up between whichever chapter the skulls are currently referencing from the different movie's.... Hope that cleared it up! But I've had a couple 9% IPAs and am typing on my phone...sooooooo.....

I'm really glad you clarified it that way, because that's exactly how I interpreted the system working but was waiting for a dev to chime in.

Eric, I'd buy you one of the IPA's if I were there and I bet many of us in this thread would too. This game is a MASTERPIECE. Thank you so much for your teams' hard work and support!

I'd like to request a JJP production-style video on how to (completely or partially) remove the POTC upper playfield properly. I learned how to do it myself, but I'm sure there are many owners that would benefit from some sort of video because the manual doesn't really cover this yet.

#1484 2 years ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Yes, you absolutely collect the skull value on each shot when you're not in a chapter. This is a completely valid and important strategy to build up a value pretty high then milk it during main (non-chapter) play. If you loop the upper loop at the start of the game, for example, you'll see 1000, 1025, 1050, etc. You collect the skull value for that movie and increase it. If you find yourself with a 36x shot and nowhere to use it, shoot for the highest valued skull.
The other main way you increase skull scoring is during chapters. Each SHOT has a skull increase value associated with it, and it increases more the harder the shot. Some examples: center shot +100, left orbit +200, left ramp +300, Tia Dalma +750. It behooves you to shoot harder shots first to get the benefit of the increase for the rest of the chapter.
You also get the increase associated with a character's shot if they're spotted, whether the spot is via Spot Character, because it's your chosen character, or a male/female spot from Angelica/Scrum. In some ways, this makes picking Tia Dalma even more attractive for her instant +750 any chapter she's in. Except of course your chapter multiplier increase is halved.
Finally, one of Henry's deals is he double-increases Skull values during chapters, so look out for that as well (so if you shoot Elizabeth during a chapter, the skull value is +600 after the shot).
Edit to add: Max skull score is 10K.

Good lord Keith, how do you come up with this stuff? How many points do I get for trying to retain this incredible ruleset in my own skull? Maybe that’s how I achieve the ultimate ultimate wizard mode? Haha j/k

#1675 2 years ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

POTC .98 code is live! https://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/
Change log:
I also see some printable pricing cards, didn't notice those before so they may be new too.

I picked up the code yesterday off the JJP website. FYI for anyone having trouble updating the code, I initially missed the fine print trying to do the .97 full update first before loading the .98 code.

Don't use a USB thumb drive bigger than 32GB! For some odd reason you need to use at least an 8GB up to 32GB (maximum) USB flash/thumb drive or when you go to power up the machine to load off the USB connector (behind the coinbox) it'll just boot normally and not update.

#1678 2 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

I got the .97 part installed. Should I erase everything from the usb except the delta .98 potc_update or should everything remain on usb when installing final part.
Also, anyone else’s ship rocking crazily after first part of install? Mine was rocking so far and fast to the right the lantern was smacking off the ramp.
Hopefully this self corrects because it was fine prior!

Yeah, I just re-formatted my USB flash drive after I got .97 installed. Follow the instructions for installing .98, it's much smaller than the .97 ISO process and easier as well.

Yes, after the update, my ship started rocking back/forth very quickly before seemingly 'gassing out'. I assumed it was using up whatever high voltage was left. It eventually gassed out to a stop, but then would start up again when high voltage was applied (closed coin door). The rocking was normal during play. But the boat was still rocking outside of a game. I scavenged around the settings and tried doing a boat calibration in tests. That seemed to have worked...I rebooted the game and now its rocking normally.

#1679 2 years ago
Quoted from solarvalue:

Cool new video from JJP about the CE:

Love that music....I hope I hear that eventually in the game.

#1683 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Looks awesome. Yes I was going to revise the website image to show with a simple snip you owner could remove the left rail if the preferred that look. Just wanted to make sure everyone’s tastes were covered. Thanks for posting and Thanks to everyone for your support and interest. Such an amazing game to work on and we have other concepts in the works we think most will like.

How about a 'Jack the monkey' mod? I've imagined him either rocking on the left side of the ship or maybe attached to one of those ramps (to the ship).

#1692 2 years ago

I don't really fancy myself a hardcore doll collector, but I just thought this hot toys figure was way too awesome to not put on top of my machine.

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#1861 2 years ago
Quoted from JordanB:

Whelp, at least I figured out why I suck at loading the cannon!

It appears to work every 10th attempt or so.
I've tried incrementally adjusting the power on that coil up until max, and it's the same behavior.
Any ideas on what can be done to get the cannon door to stay open?

Related to #1305’s recommended fix, I too have experienced this strange behavior in the door to the cannon load. Before I go bending metal with pliers, I’m wondering if this is a software/bug issue or can this only be physically resolved?

#1869 2 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

I have experienced the same thing during game play at times but when testing it, the flap seems fine. To me this would seem software related.
Sometimes I have no issue during gameplay.
Really odd and I agree, don’t want to go bending things if that isnt the real issue. Could be just a bandaid fix.

Exactly! The cannon door opens fine when I qualify it, but it seems to then close when I hit a random switch. I've had the glass off in testing, it's really weird. It makes me think that maybe the devs wrote the code to shut the door on you if you didn't get it in the cannon and make you re-qualify it all over again. Once its open, it stays open, but then you have to hit one of the load cannon targets again to re-open the door.

#1946 2 years ago
Quoted from JordanB:

Whelp, at least I figured out why I suck at loading the cannon!

It appears to work every 10th attempt or so.
I've tried incrementally adjusting the power on that coil up until max, and it's the same behavior.
Any ideas on what can be done to get the cannon door to stay open?

Quoted from Psw757:

I have experienced the same thing during game play at times but when testing it, the flap seems fine. To me this would seem software related.
Sometimes I have no issue during gameplay.
Really odd and I agree, don’t want to go bending things if that isnt the real issue. Could be just a bandaid fix.

I have no physical issue with my cannon door. When the cannon door is open, the door has sufficient height for the ball to enter. So yeah, the issue I raised seems different from those who needed to physically bend the metal door to give the ball enough clearance to enter. So this is if for anyone else mystified (as I was) at what was causing the cannon door to close after I qualified it to open:

I did a little fiddling with the cannon door today with the glass off during single-ball play. After qualifying the cannon door to open, the ball then makes contact with ANY switch on the lower playfield, the cannon door closes. And by any switch, that includes slings, standups, etc...A hit on ANY target on the upper playfield reopens the cannon door. The door stays open unless the ball leaves the upper playfield and then makes contact with a switch on the lower playfield.

The behavior during COTBP multi-ball is slightly different. After COTBP multi-ball begins, the cannon door arrow insert flashes continually yellow and the door stays open regardless if any switch on the lower playfield is contacted. The cannon door stays open and gives you a window of about 5 seconds to load the cannon with a ball. After ~5 seconds, the cannon door closes. To reopen the cannon door during COTBP multi-ball, you just need to hit ANY switch on the upper playfield and you have another ~5 seconds to try and load the cannon. Repeat as needed.

This must be software intentional by the Devs to save life on the cannon door coil.

#2174 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

How can I check these switches? All appear to be hidden away in ships.
[quoted image]

There’s likely nothing wrong with your switches at all. You just haven’t loaded the cannon, hit the ship with a ball, or hit the center hole on the ship in awhile. If your OCD can’t handle it, put your machine in a switch test, take the the glass off your machine and just move the British ship with your hand until the switch registers. With the other two, just take a ball and put in the cannon, then toss a ball into the hole into the ship on the right...done. The target ship has a little opto inside you can get to trigger just by inserting your finger inside to block the opto.

Many of the switch ‘errors’ that come up in test while powering up are just as simple as having not been triggered in a set # of plays.

#2268 2 years ago

If any JJPOTC owners have been hitting the chest fork legit and wondering why the balls aren't locking like they should into the chest, this is the fix you want to try first.

I removed the five screws holding the fork VUK and discovered two screws holding the fork to the assembly were very loose. After tightening those screws, the lock works as it should.

IMG_6688 (resized).jpg
#2392 2 years ago
Quoted from Genjuro:

Is there any definitive fix for the button on the lock down bar? I am 8 days into ownership and the button is already sticking and behaving badly.

I did Yelobird’s fix to my action button and it immediately resolved the stickiness when being depressed. Haven’t had an issue with it since.


#2399 2 years ago

Where exactly are the Black Pearl Motor Outer Opto #69 and Black Pearl Motor Inner Opto #70 located?

My Black Pearl Motor Inner Opto #70 is always active and I'm not sure that's correct. Ship seems to move fine during play.
The ship test gives mixed results, see pics. Am I right to suspect something wrong?

IMG_6703 (resized).JPGIMG_6704 (resized).JPGIMG_6705 (resized).JPGIMG_6706 (resized).JPGIMG_6707 (resized).JPG
#2409 2 years ago
Quoted from evh347:

Where exactly are the Black Pearl Motor Outer Opto #69 and Black Pearl Motor Inner Opto #70 located?
My Black Pearl Motor Inner Opto #70 is always active and I'm not sure that's correct. Ship seems to move fine during play.
The ship test gives mixed results, see pics. Am I right to suspect something wrong?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I checked the optos and the machined disc that spins in between the optos and it appears normal. In test, having the ship go left and right, the disc appears to stop correctly in front of the optos. Movement during play is as expected, I suppose I expected a different behavior in the optos (as in what is closed/open and when) during the ship test.

#2482 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

My left ship flipper does not consistently fire all the way. Sometimes full and sometimes half. The flipper switch at the button is good. I've messed with the EOS switch and that seems fine. So to questions: what could be the issue and how do I remove the ship from the playfield to fix it?

If it’s just the upper playfield flipper won’t extend all of the way, it’s probably just a loose nut on the flipper and you don’t have to remove the ship at all.
See my post #1339 and #1360 in this thread. Post back if that helped or didn’t.

#2549 2 years ago
Quoted from evh347:

If any JJPOTC owners have been hitting the chest fork legit and wondering why the balls aren't locking like they should into the chest, this is the fix you want to try first.
I removed the five screws holding the fork VUK and discovered two screws holding the fork to the assembly were very loose. After tightening those screws, the lock works as it should.
[quoted image]

These 2 screws.

#2573 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

See the flat metal part in the picture that hooks the motor ot the rocking playfield pivot ? See the two screws on it ? Loosen and then you can adjust that long metal part tighter or looser as needed.
LTG : )
[quoted image]

Quoted from DylanFan71:

Thanks Lloyd. I'll give it a shot.

Heads up when making adjustments to those two screws on the ship armature: There is a retractable bolt coming from the ship that passes through the horizontal groove in the back of the playfield this. The little cotter pin secures this bolt through the backside of the playfield. That bolt feeds through a vertical groove that has an extreme upper most position and lower (which translates to more leftward or rightward rocking of the black pearl).

If you re-secure the two screws on the ship motor arm when the bolt is placed full downward or upward in that groove, the motor driving the armature will buckle during a full revolution over and over.

You can see this happening here (credit to zaphX for link):

So essentially, if you’re going to make adjustments to the screws in the ship armature, make sure you’ve got full range of movement and the ship motor assembly doesn’t bend on every revolution before you re-secure the two ship armature screws.

The character you select, the amount of time the ball stays up on the playfield, and the progress/mode you’re in all have an effect on the upper playfield’s rocking behavior. I had to make an adjustment on my machine because I was able to trap and hold the ball on the upper left flipper without much skill. You’re not supposed to be able to trap the ball on a flipper up on the Black Pearl playfield and hold it indefinitely.

#2716 2 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

The gate to arm the canon goes up, but when the ship sways over, it falls back down. The gate will be lit, but I feel I'm bashing it 15 times before it gets in once. Is this normal? How can I trouble shoot it?

See my earlier post...

Does this help?

#2718 2 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I don't think so, yours seems to be more program solution and the way it's meant to be. Mine might actually be lack of clearance or out not holding up. (Loose)
When I run the coil check, it does this:

Yeah, that's something different. A large % of these issues are loose screw(s) or a bad wire somewhere. You're going to have to investigate.

#2729 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Will do. Thanks!
Remaining question; how do I remove the Pearl to adjust his left flipper?

Do NOT remove the ship to make an adjustment to either of the upper playfield flippers. It is not necessary to remove the ship to access the pawl nuts. The upper right flipper is trickier, but still manageable.

See my post here:

#2736 2 years ago
Quoted from kklank:

Hey everyone!
I'm not a big sales pitch guy about different mods on the market but I got some mods from the Mod Couple and I thought it was worth mentioning. One of the mods is the "disc silencer kit". I was skeptical but holy crap what a difference. Before it sounded like a tin can with pennies banging around. After install, it's virtually complete silence! I don't know how they made this stuff and especially the new gear but it was well worth the purchase. The other mods I got were really cool looking but the mod couple's disc silencer is kick ass for functionality. Kudos mod couple! Nice work.

I installed TheModCouple's disc-silencer today and I have to say that I'm a believer now too. I don't want to sound like I'm on the ModCouple's Xmas list, but I've got all of Dave's mods and this one I voted for a TWIPY. Not completely silent (they never claimed it would be), but after about 6 games in, its an improvement.

My only criticism is that the install instructions could use the touch of an experienced technical writer, but I get it...they create mods and that's what they're good at. Might want to add some info onto the website that 'White Lithium Grease' is recommended to have on hand during install.

#2806 2 years ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Had the same and a closer look to the scoop.as you can the the Metal Stands in Front of the ramp. I fixed it with a post, and have no single ball search..[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Pinballpal:

Here is the hardware you can buy at Ace Hardware if you have a ball hung up during multiball.
You need one of the 1 inch spacers, 1 of the 1/2 inch spacers and 1 wood screw number 8 x 2inches.
You will want to remove the left support rail for easier acces.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I was a little frustrated with balls getting stuck in the subway during multi-ball. It seems to only happen when more than 1 ball enters the subway during multi-ball. If there are 2 balls in the subway, the game seems to lose track of how many balls are in the subway and only VUK's one of them from the Depth's VUK. Therefore, you'll remain in a multi-ball until you drain the last ball on the playfield and then allow the machine to enter a ball search for the ball stuck in the subway. The ball search finally kicks out the stuck ball.

I did this mod and I haven't had any balls getting stuck in the subway any longer.

IMG_6742 (resized).jpg

#2808 2 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Wow thanks Mod couple, we really appreciate your mod's and pirate problem solving, like the ship lights and such. and your reasonable prices .
so on that note let me share a shooter rod mod on the cheap. here's how I made mine below you can too for under 15$ or if you don't have the time I can whip up some for 35$ shipped not 98$ + shipping. like some others.. I'm not in the mod business just want to help out on this easy to make cheap mod. pinball is expensive enough. Pm me if your interested.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you're looking for a great mod for your JJPOTC plunger/shooter rod, PM tonycip for this. I think it looks great and it's a steal for what he's asking for it. Great communication and fast shipping!

IMG_6745 (resized).jpgIMG_6746 (resized).jpg
#2901 2 years ago

Has there been any progress on plastic protectors for JJPOTC?

#2906 2 years ago
Quoted from JordanB:

For those having trouble with tortuga VUK shooting straight down the middle, or aiming inconsistently regardless of the coil strength, here's what I did.
My two screws were loose on the bracket directing the ball.
[quoted image]
Unfortunately, this required taking apart the pop to get access under the skirt. A bit of a pain removing Tom and the motor, but easier once I realized the order to do things. (remove Tom using an allen key on the side, not the screws on the top)
What's odd is that these screws seem to be covered by a plate for the vuk assembly on the underside. Presumably the screws aren't actually hitting the plate, but it also means you can't have a locking nut holding these screws in place. I worry that they'll just loosen up again.
[quoted image]
Also... yes, I'm seeing some minor chipping around the hole. Very disappointing for a HUO, low play game -- but so far the only instance I've seen. I've applied some nail hardener around the edge to hopefully prevent it from getting worse.

I appreciated this post as my Tortuga VUK guide was working loose too. I got Tortuga Tom off with a 5/64 allen wrench, but it wasn't clear what you removed to give enough slack to move the white skirt under the motor. What exactly did you loosen to do this? Thanks.

#2992 2 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

If that's the issue (hoping not) wouldn't it also do this on the manual plunge?

Another user reported a similar issue to the behavior in your video. Maybe related?

#3012 2 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

is the 666666 mode some sort of hidden thing from there Pirates series?
Don’t recall ever seeing it but there is always something you miss.

KevInBuffalo showed off the 666666 mode a few months ago for those interested:

#3028 2 years ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Got today my Cliffys for testing and they fits perfect and look great. There are 3 protectors in the set. Notice that these are beta and maybe get some minor changes.
Cliff has them already listed on his webpage
So if you want one,send him
Mail [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That MAP hole Cliffy looks like it will be a PITA to install. Did you have to remove the ship and such?

#3108 2 years ago

MezelMod protectors installed:

478B55B8-E6FD-44D2-B975-F9CF7FCCE8F8 (resized).jpeg735F6FD9-B73F-4915-96C1-C642A2717DA2 (resized).jpeg
#3172 2 years ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Got today my Cliffys for testing and they fits perfect and look great. There are 3 protectors in the set. Notice that these are beta and maybe get some minor changes.
Cliff has them already listed on his webpage
So if you want one,send him
Mail [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How did you get that post (w/ rubber) out at the Tortuga/Mystery hole? Punch?

NEVERMIND: I see it just screws out from the top. Mine was loose enough to come out w/ fingertips.

These Cliffy's are challenging to install on JJPOTC. To install the Depths edge protector, I had to remove around two dozen screws, relocate the habit trail (passes thru the plastic mountain), the depth's VUK, and the plastic subway (hence all the screws).

#3175 2 years ago
Quoted from KLR2014:

That cliffy can be installed without any effort by just carefully clicking it in place from the entrance. I did this without removing anything.

You're probably right, but my fat fingers could not get the proper angle with that VUK in the way. No matter how I maneuvered, I kept dropping the Cliffy before I got anywhere near getting it properly placed.

#3179 2 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Can someone take a look closely at their pirate lane inserts, specifically the R and T?
I notice missing black in the print but not sure if intentional or not. I’m assuming they are printed from bottom side
Couple pics of mine, only noticed because I gave her a good cleaning/wax today and replaced the balls.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Mine are the same, its artistic vision.

#3181 2 years ago

I took some pics for people wanting to install the Cliffy on the Tortuga/Mystery hole. I have to give some credit to JordanB for his post earlier:

Diverting from that guidance, I did NOT loosen anything underneath the playfield to get enough slack in the white pop skirt.
Hopefully this is helpful:

1) I used a 5/64 allen wrench to get Tortuga Tom off.
2) Take the two phillips screws securing the motor to the base out, but ENSURE you are mindful to catch the small white plastic spacers that become loose as soon as you take those screws out. I always work with a cloth on the playfield to block potential holes where parts that I don't see can fall into making a 15 minute install take over an hour just to find the parts I dropped while installing.
3) You should get enough slack in the motor to wiggle it out enough to expose two additional phillips head screws securing the bottom of the assembly. I took those out with a magnetic screw driver. If you need extra slack, the motor plugs into a molex underneath the playfield which you can unplug to give you additional slack. They don't need to come all the way out, but this is what gives you the slack to get a screw driver into the two screws holding the VUK ball guide (the same one that gives everyone trouble with SDTM out of the Tortuga/Mystery kicker).
4) I loosened the post/rubber by hand from the top of the playfield.
5) After cleaning the area with an alcohol rub (Cliffy supplied), I placed the Cliffy and then re-installed everything in backwards order.

Now onto the MAP hole Cliffy...but I need to wait for a friend's extra hands to take that on since the ship has to come off completely.

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#3183 2 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Why the hell they just cant install cliffy's at the factory or at least some factory mylar? Seems ridiculous for a machine almost costing 10k.

They mylar'd the heck out of these areas. They even put a couple extra mylar pieces in the goodie bag for optional areas (the VUK onto the black pearl playfield), but I haven't seen the need to install that yet.

The MAP hole is also heavily mylar'd, but I recently discovered that a small corner has begun to lift up, so I do want to get a Cliffy there soon.

I have to agree w/ you that I wish they would have partnered w/ Cliffy from the beginning and get these things installed at the factory. While I don't mind getting my hands dirty installing them, there is the bit about spending another ~$100 separately to protect your investment and I usually dread pulling things off the playfield or from underneath it because you can almost bet on losing grip on some mundane part (screw/washer) that you then have to waste an hour trying to find because its found its way underneath three more parts that need to come off to retrieve...or just simply forgetting how to re-plug everything back in as it was (hence take lots of pictures as you go). I usually make a list of things to fix or adjust all at once because I find the more times I lift up the playfield there's just that one more chance that I create a bigger problem to deal with.

#3186 2 years ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

For those who have Cliffies, where did you order from?

Cliff hasn't 'officially' posted the JJPOTC protectors on his site yet because they're somewhat a work-in-progress as he gathers input from people. He just added the MAP-2 piece to protect the rear wood edge, which I didn't get when I ordered.

Send him an email and he generates an invoice for you to respond to:
[email protected] or [email protected] to request ordering info
JJP-POTC-SET (resized).jpg

Regarding the MAP-2 cliffy protector: Cliff recently made this piece for the small number of owners that want some protection for the back of the MAP hole. Over a dozen owners have reported to Cliff that there are no issues w/ the single MAP protector and the MAP-2 protector is totally optional. Honestly, I don't see how the ball would ever have enough momentum at that point going into the MAP hole to cause damage to the back of the hole. Cliff said he would NOT be making a new all-encompassing MAP protector.

#3230 2 years ago

Special thanks to my friend @TimBoch and his daughter for their help today installing the MAP hole Cliffy on my JJPOTC today.

There isn't yet a video showing how to take the Black Pearl ship off the game, so I took pics along the way. I'm sure the pics won't appear in the exact intended order, but it should give the general idea well enough.
Hopefully this helps anyone who may need to take the Black Pearl completely off. My suggestion, is to get at least two pairs of hands. I carefully snipped just one zip tie off holding the cluster of wires underneath the playfield. Ensure you don't accidentally cut thru anything important.!

In short, there are SEVEN connectors under the playfield that first need to be disconnected and they need to be carefully passed thru the plastic underneath where the Black Pearl was mounted. I've circled their locations in the pictures. I eventually took a black sharpie and wrote on #'s on them to help me remember what goes where, but they are keyed fairly obviously so not much chance to screw that up. The three little Molex connecters are color coded on the board they connect to. I temporarily disconnected the small black Molex just to give me better access to the other plugs. In putting everything back, my left ship spinner initially wasn't registering in test, but that was resolved just by going back and re-seating those plugs.

To remove the ship, you need an Allen key to extract the Allen pin behind the ship, pull the cotter pin on the arm (behind the playfield), collect the white spacer, and then ensure the upper playfield pin that was secured with the cotter pin is manually retracted thru the back of the playfield. Once that's done, pull backwards on the ship towards the back of the playfield, and carefully lift it up and out. It's possible to carefully guide it out from under the VUK guide w/o removing the VUK guide, just take your time. When handling the upper playfield, its a good idea to be mindful about where exactly you're handling it due to the sensitive components underneath, so make sure you're not putting pressure on something fragile. What I do is keep my hands on the wood sides until I can be assured I'm not handling it from something that could break. Do NOT get lazy at this point and be mindful about what/where you go setting this thing because its heavy enough to break whatever you rest it on. You really need two people to do this. I had help guiding the cables up and thru from underneath as I extracted everything together to set aside.

After you get the ship off, there are 5 nylon nuts that need to be removed in order to lift up on the plastic on top of the MAP targets. Then you just remove the two posts and the one screw holding the MAP hole ball guide. We didn't need to completely take the plastic off as there was enough flexibility to get the Cliffy placed.

Clean the MAP hole area with the supplied alcohol wipe, place the Cliffy, and re-install everything. Note: In removing two of the posts under the plastic, one of the chapter select sling rubbers was released. No big deal, just re-install the sling rubber after you install the Cliffy and then get the posts back where they belong.

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#3239 2 years ago
Quoted from wheels:

Thank you for the detailed instructions. How long did it take? Do you think you can get away with just 1 person doing the install? If not, do you only need a second pair of hands when lifting the Pearl wires out? Trying to be sensitive to my wife's time since she's already so great with the time I spend on pinball?
Where does the second Map protector (the little one) go?

For starting with only a general idea/plan on how to take the it all apart, I’d say it can take around 30 minutes to an hour if you take your time. My friend had to take off and return with a deep socket set that I didn’t yet have. Some of the nylon washers are deep enough onto posts that you really need this tool to carry forward. You will also likely need a needle nose pliers to keep the post from rotating underneath while you work the nylon nut off.

I’ve had the upper playfield off before, asking my wife to just hold onto the upper playfield while I did some maintence. It starts to get uncomfortable after awhile to just sit there and hold onto it. The only thing I would make sure to take my time on (with help of friend) is feeding those seven cables up from the bottom because they’re fed thru a hole on a plastic and you don’t want to just pull hazard-like. And if you don’t disconnect the upper playfield entirely, there isn’t a lot of cable-slack to maneuver around with and there is really no good place to safely set it without chancing breaking something under its weight.

I’m not certain, but it appears that the MAP2 protector (if you get it) co-joins with the MAP protector underneath where the MAP hole guide’s securing screw and post meet. I checked the inside back of my MAP hole and I didn’t see anything (yet) that would’ve warranted installing the MAP2 Cliffy, but it’s up to you.

UPDATED 01/31:
Can you get away with doing it all by yourself? Today, I had to make an adjustment to the MAP cliffy as its not sitting completely flat. I got the ship completely out and replaced all by myself without any help and I did it in under 15 minutes. Practice makes perfect I guess.
I may need to make another adjustment to the Cliffy in the future as its now sitting flatter to the playfield, but not perfectly. The adhesive on the Cliffy does not seem to be holding it entirely flat due to the pressure from the screw and post behind the MAP ball guide.

#3240 2 years ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

what a nightmare to install why couldn't they have done this at the factory, uggh

Factory installed Cliffy’s would’ve been nice, no doubt. But they did Mylar the heck out of most of the high-traffic areas.

The fact is, all of us (if you own this machine) are going to eventually have to learn and get familiar with taking the upper playfield on/off...unless you plan on never cleaning it or replacing rubbers. The chapter select rubbers will eventually wear out.

Granted, I’ve been playing the heck out of this game since I got it, but the amount of ball grime that we found on that upper loop and on the playfield going off the upper left flipper thru the On Stranger Tides loop was surprising. Some Novus 1 and 2 cleaned it up nice, but without taking the ship off, that maintence would be hard to do.

#3246 2 years ago
Quoted from Squizz:

Q: Is there a stream regarding the rules? tutorial on game play.
Tried a search on youtube, but didn't seem to find one.

There are 22 videos on YouTube by Jersey Jack Pinball Live describing the play and rules and the SDTM crew had an in-depth breakdown of the rules as well.

JJP Live:


Or download the manual here:

#3357 2 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

I seem to be having a problem loading the cannon. I get it ready, light fuse arrows lit. then I hit the shot but the gate Isn't up. I lowered the glass and pushed on top the coil and it sure enough it was not even trying to hold, so I hit the load cannon target again and it opened I put the glass back on continued to play
but noticed the light fuse arrow was no longer on?? I didn't think there was a time limit for loading the cannon ? any Ideas would be appreciated thanks

If you want help with why you're cannon door is not open, you'll have to be more specific about what you're doing during gameplay.

I made a discovery about the cannon door behavior just over a month ago...does this help?

During COTBP multi-ball when going for the super jackpot, there is a 5-second time limit to loading the cannon. It requires a hit on any switch on the upper playfield. During any other mode, a hit on any switch on the lower playfield shut the cannon load door until you hit any switch on the upper playfield and it stays open unless you fall off and hit a switch on the lower playfield.

#3358 2 years ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Sorry asked the wrong guy.... If you have time can you please show a picture of the Pinstadium results on your game here or in the PS thread. Been considering it just not sure if they are a must. Thanks!!!

I posted this awhile ago.

#3360 2 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Any word on an upcoming code release? A few of the bugs are getting rather frustrating. Namely the start chapter not actually starting a chapter. The mini LCD going black and fixed with a reboot is kinda annoying too.

I asked Keith on latest BP stream, he said 'its coming'.

#3623 2 years ago
Quoted from PinPeet:

Tech question.
On the Pearl, the left flipper does not raise like the right flipper does. Is this normal behaviour, or not. Do I need to get the pearl removed to resolve this?
It was good untill this weekend I suppose. I changed the pitch of the pearl a bit to the right to resolve the mech touching the wood in the back but making the cannon shot became way more difficult. Then I noticed.
[quoted image]
Left down, right up
[quoted image]
Left up
[quoted image]
Left up, right down

I wouldn’t recommend adjusting default power to coils as the first thing you do. It’s probably a simple mechanical fix. I posted something similar on #1339. Try loosening this nut just a bit more, then reposition the flipper. Ultimately with the flipper engaged, you want the flipper to be able at the same height/angle as the other for reference. When you’re done, just re-tighten this nut on its respective flipper.

It’s normal for them to work loose over time. You don’t have to disassemble anything, you’re just re-tightening a nut after the flipper has been re-positioned. You should be able to get to either nut without removing the upper playfield.

995632BA-38AE-4196-B160-0BE4BD57CAD5 (resized).jpeg
#3669 2 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Anyone install cliffys yet?

Yes. Search this thread for my posts. I recently gave Cliff some feedback on his protectors. If you get the protectors, make sure you install both the MAP and MAP2 at the map hole as the MAP protector has a tough time staying flat w/o the MAP2 protector.

The protectors take a little time to install, but worth it I think.

JJP-POTC-SET (resized).jpg
#3787 2 years ago

Played an LE on location at Tilt Pinball Arcade today...glad I installed Cliffy's.

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#3793 2 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

I don't see JJP POTC on cliffy's site, am I just blind.

I know I'm repeating myself in this thread regarding Cliffy's, but here it goes again:

Cliff hasn't 'officially' posted the JJPOTC protectors on his site yet because they're somewhat a work-in-progress as he gathers input from people. When his products haven't quite worked itself out of the WIP status, he posts them on this page:

Send him an email and he generates an invoice for you to respond to:
[email protected] or [email protected] to request ordering info

I recently gave Cliff some feedback on his JJPOTC protectors and Cliff was (as usual) beyond customer-helpful and generous. If you get the protectors, make sure you install both the MAP and MAP2 at the map hole as the MAP protector has a tough time staying flat w/o the MAP2 protector.

The protectors take a little time to install, but worth it overall I think.

cliffy (resized).jpg

#3999 2 years ago
Quoted from wheels:

I wasn't able to successfully lay it on its side. Seemed like there wasn't enough slack from below. Could be helpful if someone were to show in detailed photos which wires to disconnect down below. With that said, you probably won't have to fiddle with the ship new out of the box.
On another note, the game gets better and better the more you learn the rules! I'm having a great time with it. Just need to get better with all of the many shots you need to hit.


#4175 2 years ago
Quoted from Heater:

So here is the Noobiest if noobie questions:
On the spotlights, do they just pull straight out? I ordered new ones and don’t want to find out later that you had to unscrew something first!
After a bunch of games....still trying to figure out Hurry Up mode
Lastly for the lame questions, trying to figure out the constellations. Anyone mapped them out? I keep looking and still don’t see the patterns!

If you’re having difficulty making out the constellations, you can go into settings and set them to easy...at the cost of points, at least until you learn them.

#4206 2 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

A very good start but needs improvement. There are errors and omissions it seems.
IE: pop bumper mystery colors are backwards I believe (RED and WHITE)
Also, missing the point of the rollover button at loop to drop into the bumpers, this will increase the lowest mystery light by one.
The guide simply says: Pop bumper entrance - Small gap near the loop that has a rollover. The ball tends to fall into this area at random.

It’s not my wiki page, it’s just something I came across. For example, I know ‘Spot Character’ lights if you’re in a chapter and you hit the same character shot as the captain you chose. The spot character target lights to credit you another random character on that chapter. If you selected Henry at the start, it’s always lit.

So yeah, it needs improvement.

#4248 2 years ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

Current issue, Black pearl gate to the cannon will open with spinner then load target etc. However, when pressing the left flipper it immediately closes and the same for the right flipper but takes a few flips before it closes. Any ideas of where to start.....? LTG......

VillaThrills is probably correct. If you're not in a COTBP multi-ball, any switch on the lower playfield will shut the door to the cannon and any switch on the upper playfield will re-open the cannon door. Check your switch matrix for switches on the lower playfield that register with little interaction. I'd focus on the chapter select left/right rubbers...my left one has always been very sensitive (which requires play/adjustment). It's just pinball.

#4251 2 years ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

How did you do those leg lights heni they are cool?! I went to pbl but didn’t see anything but small lights.

Contact MustangPaul

#4321 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

We have a new lighted treasure chest mod...speed and pattern of the light can be controlled.

Available On our website and will be in our pinside shop shortly.
https://lermods.com/products/pirates-of-the-caribbean-jjp-pinball-led-strip-illuminated-chest-light[quoted image]

My wife said this the other day.....why, why is there not a lighted beating Davy Jones heart in the chest? That's the mod I want.

#4440 2 years ago
Quoted from cbdarden:

What was the recommended “Sticky Button” fix? Is there one? The Switch works fine, but the button physically binds. Lube? If so, what kind?


1 week later
#4967 2 years ago
Quoted from RPZ:

This seems to have done the trick!! Thanks so much! Had about 4 games and no hang ups!
The little clear rubber was there, but I found another one here;
Any idea where it belongs?[quoted image][quoted image]

My idea...it should've been over below the 'D' on 'man overboard' and not there. I don't have a clear rubber where your picture seems to indicate, nor do I see a purpose for it being there in the first place.

#4994 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Yep. One of my maybe projects is to put together a wiki which lists the chapters in the game along with 2-3 sentences describing what is going on.

Sounds a little over ambitious to me and not worth it. There are 25 possible (randomly selected) chapters for each movie and five movies. Do the math, that’s 25x5 = 125 chapters

I would say, just watch the movies, but only because I’m in the minority and I actually enjoyed the POTC movies (even though I can’t stand Depp outside of that character). But by movie 3, every damn character in the movie has 2-3 (or maybe more) subplots. If you ever get to the point where you can explain why Tia Dalma (Calypso) turns into a giant Calypso, starts shouting some sort of unintelligible garbage before transforming into a pile of crabs before falling into the sea...then by all means, have at it. I doubt even the directors can explain what is going on.

Then there’s this...I now enjoy shooting TH and I’ve only seen about 15min of any of those movies and I still don’t care to watch any of them...it’s still a fun machine to play and I could care less how many movie scenes they want to play on the back glass. I have absolutely no idea who or what I’m collecting or why...but I understand shooting the lights, loops, ramps, targets, and that dragon.

#4995 2 years ago
Quoted from RPZ:

I think you are onto something here (again)
Got a pic of yours?
They are bit like a puzzle from the moment your receive them. Having said that. I’ve had lots of fun dialing it in and getting it going 100%

Besides the extra clear rubber included in your ‘goodie bag’, I’m aware of just three located on my playfield.

1D210B9C-1D6C-46D1-B5E1-3C50A3D2723E (resized).jpeg3100BF23-1609-44CD-B56E-713F2B6C4B50 (resized).jpegF5F93B87-6E82-42BA-B90B-5EE01B420FFA (resized).jpeg
#4996 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

LE #78 (Build date 2/4/19) is now setup in my house, picked it up yesterday from zmeny from Flip N Out Pinball, even got hollywoodbone to help us load it:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Went thru everything with a fine tooth comb, some fixes were already installed from the factory, which shows they do listen to Pinside:
[quoted image]
Also added Titan Silicone rings on the Black Pearl and Flippers, tonycip's Medallion Shooter, as well as MezelMods clear plastic protectors. Hopefully the ordered Cliffys will come in sometime soon.....
I've only problems with two issues, one is the Black Pearl wasn't quite centered in its rocking action, which was easily addressed adjusting the screws on back.
The other issue is a PITA that I've yet to been able to fix: Upon setting up the pin I discovered that the display itself not latched in place correctly during shipping on the right side. Luckily it did not damage the backglass. Once I moved the wooden shipping blocks and latched the display into place the right is sagging almost 3/8-1/2" too low. I tried everyday possible to adjustment to the display and mounting arm possible short of total disassembly of the mount with no improvement, the silver frame of the display is still visible and showing on the left. My temporary solution for now is inserting a wooden block as wedge to push up the right side, it's not visible while the backglass is on but its not right. I'm contacting Zach & JJP tomorrow to see if they have any suggestions. I tried most tricks in this thread with no avail.
Besides that she is a best to play. Be looking for an order in the next couple of days yelobird ! Hoping to keep her in the lineup for a long time:
[quoted image]

Interesting the JJP is now integrating the ‘post fix’ onto that subway during production to prevent balls from not kicking out of the depths and going into a never-ending ball search during the end of a multi-ball. So it wasn’t a code defect, but rather a minor error in design that was missed during development. I don’t mean to sound critical, because they did get a lot of things right overall. Credit goes to the community on that fix though.

#5166 2 years ago
Quoted from fossmin:

So I just starting getting an error, target switch #48 is stuck closed, target ship. Is this the ship on the left side of the playfield? Anyone know how to get to it? Do I have to remove the upper deck?

No, dropping a ball in the dauntless resolves '#79 Target Ship Bullseye (closed)'

To fix 'Target Switch #48 (stuck closed)' just grab the Dauntless ship and move it left then right.

#5168 2 years ago
Quoted from Heater:

Does anyone know the post# for yelobirds tutorial on making a new replacement for tortuga tom? Im looking for something to do this weekend other than all the things on the wifes honey-do list! The list has builted up ever since I got this game

Post #2473

#5170 2 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

My dauntless was hanging up on the wire loom behind the backboard.

That will do it too.

#5175 2 years ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

How many POTC owners have pinstadiums for this game? I know Villathrilla does I think, anyone else?


#5178 2 years ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Thank you.
I like what I see and I think the game needs the extra lighting but the complaint I have (like I have see from others) the dot effect you get from wireform reflections. And of course with POTC those wireforms are right next to the lights so that dotting is even more exaggerated. Tough call.
What setting do you have yours on?

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#5181 2 years ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

And which flasher did you go with for the UV connection

The shaker.

#5546 2 years ago
Quoted from steigerpijp:

New day, new fix to be found..
Anyone experience an intermittenty active chapter start lock post?
Stops working deep into a game, doesnt work in test mode, pf up, I do measure the proper voltage , drop the pf back, still no go.
Game of, on, works fine..play a game then stops again a few minutes into it.
Weird one, hope its not another bad transistor

Start at this post...then read the next ~six posts.

#5547 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I purchased the full set from Cliff but so far I've only installed the ball drops (super easy). I want to install the Tortuga hole next but the metal deflector needs to be removed and the two screws are obscured by the pop-bumper skirt and I can't figure out how to remove the unit? How do you remove the spinning Jack - seems like his hands are blocking the tiny screw on top. Anyone done this?

See my post:

#5551 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Starting to wonder if Cliffy's are even necessary on this game? I was looking back at post #4636 from f3honda4me and after 1k plays he doesn't have anywhere at the map or Tortuga areas. If there's one spot I can see a Cliffy being needed just incase its at the Tortuga area as that is a ball eject area. However, the map shot may not even needed as the ball only falls into that area versus being kicked out.

This is what the LE looks like at my local pincade:

#5553 2 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

And how many plays are on that pin?

I didn't ask because the people working were busy taking care of customers and the regular tech was not there at the time.

I have close to 1000 on my home LE which I've had since late-Nov and before I put the Cliffy's on I had just a little wear at the back of my MAP hole and the mylar that JJP put down in that area was beginning to lift up.

#5556 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Ouch, well maybe I'll add them lol. I saw your post about installing Cliffys at the Tortuga area. How did you go about installing the Cliffys for the map shot area?

Here's the link again:

#5722 2 years ago
Quoted from lapean111:

Does anyone have a fix for multiple balls getting stuck in the depths during multiball?

Many posts in this thread, yes.

#5755 2 years ago
Quoted from lapean111:

I see that post, but don't fully understand where the screw goes, or how it fixes the issue. Can anyone explain in more detail, possibly with a detailed photo or 2?
Thanks in advance!


#5886 2 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

I would love to see some power blades for this game maybe Sea and lightning

Yeah, there is no way I’d be spending $270 on fancy art blades that eventually get scratched, pinched, or just generally damaged. Even getting the $80 basic art blades + protectors installed is a challenge on this machine. With as tight a fit as the playfield and sides are, there is no way I’d even attempt to install that package.

#5895 2 years ago
Quoted from steigerpijp:

If I can get enough deckswabs on board I will make a limited run of this CE shooter kit.
LE owners no problem , a clean & polished pistol would suit that look better
Feel free to Pm me if interested.
Geert [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks cool. How would that work with the three skill shots?

#5900 2 years ago
Quoted from evh347:

Looks cool. How would that work with the three skill shots?

He started a dedicated thread already and answered the question...

3 weeks later
#7232 2 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

This is normal?
I figured a quick snap wouldn't hurt.
[quoted image]

It’s not normal. Read posts after mine. The fix is simple, loosen the pawl nut, re-position the flipper and retighten. And no, you don’t need to remove the upper playfield.

D0DADEA4-F14C-4ED8-BDC2-767E176D0686 (resized).jpeg
#7234 2 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Hmm interesting. Would be nice to know for sure. I have no problems hitting all targets on the ship with the right flipper.

I’ve suggested this fix to Derek some time ago and Eric himself upvoted the post. If I was wrong, someone would have said so.

#7250 2 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Oh Wow...
So I used Will Turner (Random select)
I hit the 3rd skill shot to get a spin of the map and to my surprise I was awarded 25,000 on ball 1.
That's a neat trick!

I suggest the Buffalo Pinball tutorial. @22:15 they explain why Will has this benefit. They actually go through all the characters pretty good. The big takeaway is that the main benefit listed at the character select screen is NOT always the only benefit you get from picking a character. Of course there are negatives too, but unfortunately, right now in .98 code you have to pick a character and then hold the right flipper for about 3 seconds until you get into the status info.

Watch the video:

95011AFC-4890-46BA-A774-93A17CD228F3 (resized).png
#7555 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Any news out of MGC regarding Pirates code?

On last night’s Buffalo Pinball stream, Keefer again said, ‘soon....I might be forced to do yet one more release before .99’

#7621 2 years ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

I wonder how many plays that machine has. That has to be thousands. I have 800 plays and mine still look practically new.

I followed up with the tech at Tilt...their JJPOTC has (estimated) over 10,000 plays.

#7629 2 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

What shape is it in!?

Today...it looked similar to this older picture I took of the same machine.

AC85F259-5DAA-424F-AE9F-6527F2D53D15 (resized).jpeg
1 month later
#10664 2 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

POTC is pretty damn amazing as are all JJP games, but is there like a simple rule/ guide sheet for how to play and whats going on? Anyone have a link?


2 months later
#11842 2 years ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

I took off the conduit and traced them all and checked connections. I'm at a loss. No power to the cpu and no clue where to begin on this one.

I had a mysterious event one time pulling my machine away from the wall within the first week of ownership. The machine was on and then all of sudden..dead. No power.

First, unplug from the wall and ensure the machine is off! Lift the playfield, locate where the 3-prong power cable is plugged in, there is a plastic black cover that tents where the power cable (from the wall) connects to your machine, it’s inside the cabinet on the bottom towards the back ...take out the screws and lift this plastic tent off. There are two male connectors that may have been pulled loose. Ensure they are connected properly. Replace the plastic tent when you’re done.

3 weeks later
#12036 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Question for anyone who has installed cliffys on POTC - I'm going to install a set, and while it is mostly straightforward I have some concern on the MAP hole area.
That area has a mylar which is wrinkled on the right side of the hole - most POTC machines seem to be the same in this area.
For folks who have cliffy'd this, what did you do? Did you remove the mylar? Lay the cliffy on top of it? Snip away some of the mylar to remove the "bubble?"

Remove the Mylar (especially if bubbling). Not doing so will put enough pressure on the Cliffy that it won’t sit flush and will impact the ball.

1 week later
#12260 2 years ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Hold down left flipper and hit right flipper 3 times fast. Might be 5 times

It’s five.

3 weeks later
#12585 2 years ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

I like those led lights behind your front legs. What did you use there? Never seen that before. And the shooter rod plate? Thanks looks cool.


2 months later
#13530 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Fellow pirates!
A Wonka Candy Kode (411411) has revealed the existence of a hidden 23rd POTC character![quoted image]

Let us know when you discover the Candy Kode that unlocks POTC 1.0 complete code.

3 weeks later
#13861 1 year ago
Quoted from LesManley:

On a side note, my Tortgua has started throwing it down the middle the majority of the time. I boosted the coil up to 28 even in the menu and it will still do it. I would like for it to kick out to the left flipper like I know it should. Any ideas for a fix there instead of dropping power to have it go to the right flipper?

I’d start by lifting the playfield and looking for anything loose or causing sloshy movement around that coil. Loose coil stop?
Adding a spring washer to my MB scoop kick out coil cured the SDTM kick outs for me. I’d look for something similar ailment to start.

2 months later
#14798 1 year ago
Quoted from bgwilly31:

His name escapes me right now. But he pirate that spots you a pirate lane.
Your in lanes are extremely important in this game.
Go super X>shot X> back to super X> stacked with arggghh then repeat


3 weeks later
#14932 1 year ago
Quoted from Dexje:

does anyone know the exact model or a replacement for the spinning pop bumper top motor?

C-32 in your manual

BDD88B7C-D8E1-4AD0-AB65-0A4051F1EC99 (resized).png
1 month later
#15175 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

POTC is by far the best game in my collection, but I wish it had more of a "disney" feel to it, like that smell when you enter the ride.. maybe a shot of some mist in the face when you start a multi ball or hit something.


“The smells are just that of the chlorinated water your boat floats on and perhaps from the Blue Bayou restaurant,” they all say. This is absolutely ridiculous for several reasons. First of all, as we have discussed, the ride is not cleaned with chlorine–it's cleaned with bromine, which is the main source of the smell.“

3 months later
#15599 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Anybody else catch Keith's little tease in the JJP promo video thread? I initially took it as new code coming out but maybe JJP is going to put POTC on the line again. Maybe. There wasn't a ton of context. I can't think of when I'd be more happy to eat my words.



2 months later
#16081 11 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Went to play my pirates today and the left flipper on the BP froze in the upper position. The flipper was not moving smoothly at all and after removing the BP and checking the mech, seems like the coil sleeve (and maybe the coil) are toast. Not sure why this happened when the pin was fine the last time we played. Anyway, I'm guessing I need to replace both the coil and sleeve. Does JJP sells these parts or some other site? Any suggestions? Thanks.

Broken flipper return spring? Pretty common.



Post a picture of the underside of the flipper. Might help others help you diagnose.

3 months later
#16530 7 months ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

This is likely the problem - Take the whole assembly out from underneath. There are 2 screws in the top that frequently come loose from the factory. You can only access them by removing the mech. Put the fork in the position you want and tighten these down, then re-install the mech.[quoted image]

No credit for using my picture or link to the original post?


#16533 7 months ago
Quoted from Betelgeuse:

I had the picture on my pc for ages and didn't even recall exactly where it was from. No offense intended. I'm pretty much done trying to help people with their pin problems anyway.

Don’t worry about it. None taken.

1 month later
#16723 6 months ago
Quoted from Nato01:

I guys, I’ve finally (after 7 weeks) got to play my pirates LE. It was delivered damaged. I’ve made a few adjustments to the game, chest and other things. got it running pretty good but just wanna ask a couple of maintenance issue questions.
- first one, while playing multi ball if two balls are sunk down into the subway at the same time or similar time the second ball won’t kick up from the depths and stays in the plastic subway. anyone had this issue? how to fix? Whiteout having to tilt the game.
- also that The lock door on the Canon shot lifts once when ready to load but goes back down after being knocked and stays down for the rest the time, unable to load the Canon? I can’t work it out?
- final one is the Tortuga shot always returns the ball straight down the middle (80%). I think that’s a simple adjust but... thanks for your advice and help guys.
I look forward to playing a error free game
Many thanks.


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