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(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!


By goren1818

2 years ago



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  • 15,636 posts
  • 529 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by djsoup
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Topic index (key posts)

20 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #222 Liar's Dice rules explained! Posted by goren1818 (1 year ago)

Post #644 Rules flow chart Posted by Rbviessman (1 year ago)

Post #1021 How to fix black pearl lamps Posted by Yelobird (1 year ago)

Post #1360 Black Pearl flippers are uneven when in upper position - Fix Posted by evh347 (1 year ago)

Post #2468 Hardware fix for balls getting hung up during multiball. Posted by Pinballpal (1 year ago)

Post #2892 Adjustment for auto plunger not hitting balls cleanly or correctly Posted by Pinballpal (1 year ago)

Post #3974 Deadflip stream from Valentine’s Day 2019. Posted by Tuna_Delight (1 year ago)

Post #4014 POTC trouble shooting guide Posted by zaphX (1 year ago)

Post #4856 Possibly let distributor go through machine and get it tuned in. Posted by dgposter (1 year ago)

Post #6315 Fix for dauntless positioning, canon shots not landing Posted by Yelobird (1 year ago)


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#3496 1 year ago

I'm new to pinball ownership and in the past couple months bought a JJPOTC LE and a STNG. Both have been great games to play, and searching Pinside forums has been super helpful in identifying and troubleshooting some issues popping up in both machines. Unfortunately I don't have much experience or knowledge with mechanical stuff and I don't have much of a tool collection, so it's been very slow learning for me. I've browsed a lot of the history on this JJPOTC thread (up to about page 50) and I've had many of the same issues with my POTC LE as others (ball hanging up on right ramp, balls entering chest but rolling right through instead of locking, and wire breaking under mini playfield - still don't have the courage to try to fix that one yet) and I just had a couple other issues pop up that I haven't seen mentioned (or I missed them). I was wondering if anyone might have some advice to offer on either of these:
- First, the wire return ramp from Malestrom has in the past day or so shifted to the right by about 1/2 inch so balls coming down it are getting hung up on the top edge of the right slingshot where they're supposed to drop down into the "R" lane. I see there are screws on the dividers between the P & I lane and the the I & R lane. It seems like I should just need to unscrew those a bit, nudge the ramp back over and re-tighten in place. Problem is I don't know what tool to use on those two screws. I checked the user manual (especially pages C-135 to C-151) to see what size they are but I couldn't identify it. I went out and bought a 7-piece SAE nut driver set thinking it should be one of those sizes but 5/16 was too small and 3/8 was too big. Any idea what tool I need for those screws?

- Second, in the past week I've had several shots bounced back at me from the left orbit (yellow skull shot). I think the post at the start of that lane may be raising when it shouldn't and blocking the ball, and then retracting when it gets hit. I haven't been able to confirm it for sure because the post is blocked from view when I'm playing and I don't know it's a problem until a shot gets blocked. Anyone have anything similar to this happen?

Any help would be really appreciated. Thank you.

#3507 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Looks like you have some minor adjustments to make but I applaud your commitment in trying to learn as you go. Most side with giving up to complain. As your not all that far from me feel free to reach out if I can be of assistance. Once you get this pin dialed in you will enjoy every minute. Congrats neighbor.

Thank you! Yep, even without the chest lock working for me from day 1 and the left load cannon switch now out it's still playable and a ton of fun to play. Once I get those resolved it should be really great again. I've seen your posts with the mods available for the game and they look great. I didn't realize your location until seeing your message. I appreciate the offer. Once I get the chest lock and broken wire issues fixed the next step might be looking into getting that cannon mod

#3508 1 year ago
Quoted from FlippinJB:

Don't be too concerned about removing the ship. It's in there tight, but with a bit of jigging around, it can be done - see LTG's previous post on page 64 of this thread.
For me, putting it back in place was more difficult. What seemed to work best was pushing the front end just under the ramp first, and then wiggling it around until the bracket with the 'male' end engaged with the 'female' bracket standup thingy on the playfield. It was easy to see when it had engaged, as the ship pivoted left and right in a controlled way when I moved it with my hand. Then it was just a case of putting the allen-type screw back in on the back of the ship, and the washer/pin behind the playfield.
I'll be better at it next time (although I'm hoping nothing else will go wrong under there), and there will be less swearing/sweating.
Addition: while you've got the ship off, I suggest you check whether the wiring loom is too tight. Mine was, and I snipped a couple of wire-ties to loosen it. Hopefully the wires won't get in the path of the ball when it enters the lanes below the ship, but I'll post here if that happens. Best of luck!

Thanks! I'm going to do a test run getting the ship in and out using that guidance, then I'll work up the nerve to attack the wiring. I appreciate the help.

#3509 1 year ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

1st question - Yes - You need to loosen that nut and slide the habitrail over a bit. Try metric sockets maybe? Otherwise a small crescent wrench.
2nd question - I think this is designed in some mode. The post pops up to deflect the ball back to the upper left flipper.

I got a small crescent wrench and was able to make it work. Thanks for the tip!!!

#3675 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Problem: Chest seems to reject shots that it should have captured.
Solution: Remove the chest mech from under the playfield (5 screws.). Tighten the two screws for the fork which are likely loose. This is a common problem.

My forks have seemed a bit wobbly and rejecting more shots lately so I lifted the playfield to check it out. Looking into the fork assembly it looked like one of the two screws holding the forks is missing and when I looked down I found the screw in the bottom of the cabinet. I see it's five screws to undo to get the fork assembly off the bottom of the playfield so I can put the missing screw back in. It looks like it might to be possible to do it without disconnecting any wiring, but does anyone know if that's the case or if I have to disconnect wires to pivot the fork assembly out and replace the screw? Even though my chest isn't locking balls I'd still like to fix this issue so balls go through the chest more often instead of getting rejected by the forks and rolling back down the middle.

My unit was built in Nov. and delivered in early Dec., so I'm still running into a lot of the common list of issues. It's a testament to the game though that even with no chest lock working, switches 9, 10, and 12 out due to a broken green/brown wire, and other nuisances popping up I'm still super addicted to it after two months, and my kids are still really into it too. I still have "one more game" syndrome keeping me up and playing for extended periods every day. I love trying to hit all the different shots, challenges, and rewards this game has, and I'm usually still playing an hour after I first tell myself, "Okay, one more game".

#3677 1 year ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

in the past week I've had several shots bounced back at me from the left orbit (yellow skull shot). I think the post at the start of that lane may be raising when it shouldn't and blocking the ball, and then retracting when it gets hit. I haven't been able to confirm it for sure because the post is blocked from view when I'm playing and I don't know it's a problem until a shot gets blocked. Anyone have anything similar to this happen?
Any help would be really appreciated. Thank you.

Tonight I got visual confirmation on my left orbit post question. The post is sometimes lifting up and blocking shots to the left orbit, and it's happening in single ball play even when On Stranger Tides multiball has not been qualified or played. Tonight I had a ball get blocked and it sounded like the post retracted after the block. I ducked down to see that the post was not up. About 20 seconds later with no other shots going to the upper area of the playfield, I again hit a clean shot to the left orbit that was blocked. This time I ducked down quicker just in time to see the post finish retracting as the ball rolled away from it. The post is never blocking shots coming around from the right orbit though, so it seems like the issue is that occasionally switch 77 for some reason raises the post as a ball enters the left orbit. Anyone have any ideas?

#3678 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

You don’t have to remove the wires to the fork mech. Just remove the five screws and then fix the two screws on the fork. I used loctite so I didn’t have to think about it a second time. This is indeed a common issue.

Thanks! I like the idea of using the loctite. I'm going to do that. I appreciate the help/confidence booster so I can give it a try to fix it.

#3679 1 year ago

Sorry, one more post looking for an assist. Tonight when I found the screw for the forks in the bottom of my cabinet I looked around and also found a small spring. Attached is a picture of it. Anyone have any idea as to where it might have come from?

POTC Spring (resized).jpeg
#3724 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Thats a new one to me?? Looks almost like a spring from a Bic pen. lol

Flick my Bic = Flip my pinball

#3725 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

The left post assist comes into play when you're playing a chapter that has an upper flipper shot (map hole/loop) and no other character is lit on the left orbit.

Ahhhh, so it's intentional. Okay, good to know. Thank you!

#3737 1 year ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

For the guys that have had this game for a couple months or more, what do you think of it? Is it still worth 10k? Are you having any thoughts of dumping it soon? How is it compared to other games you own or have owned? I must admit, I've never had such a difficult time deciding on a game before, but the price still has me held back. For some reason there is a mental threshold past 8k for me. Even if you only had it a very short time, how is the honeymoon period comparing to other games you've owned?

I'm really happy I bought this game. I'm completely hooked on it and I don't foresee my interest in it going down any time soon. I always loved the rare chances I'd had to play pinball over the years and took the plunge by buying a couple machines to fulfill a bit of a little kid dream I always had. I was and still am a very, very novice player (after 2 months I finally got to a wizard mode three nights ago). I've had my POTC since early December and still play just about every day for at least an hour and my grade school kids love it and are still playing it a bunch too. I think it says something that this game has captured some of their attention away from Fortnite and Minecraft. Whether it's me having fun trying to get better at playing pinball, my kids playing to hit shots & targets and getting a little interested in the object/rules of the game, or friends & neighbors coming over and having fun just hitting the ball around without caring what they're hitting it's been a lot of fun for everyone.

In a bit over 60 days ownership (including 2 weeks vacation when it was home alone and not played), it has 611 plays on it (counting each 1 through 4 player game as one play) and we're still getting more and more into it. For me, it had in one machine a wide variety of the individual elements I liked from other machines like an upper playfield, a fun & unique shot (the cannon shot), lots of different multiballs, and many target lanes & holes (I think 13) with a deep rule set that I knew would hold my interest for a long, long time because I might not ever be able to conquer the entire game. I like a challenge (I still play golf with clubs made in 1990), and I've really loved playing this game. I haven't spent a minute wishing I'd bought one of the other games instead. But that's just me, and I'm sure different games appeal to different people for different reasons.

#3970 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Haha I’m just passionate about things I like. Happy to help others enjoy this amazing game.

Figures that I don't check the site for a day and an issue pops up that I might have been able to help with. Glad you got it resolved though. Any advice on a solder iron to get and what type/size solder to use? I would imagine I need one with a long cord too? I have the same issue where my green-brown wire is broken and those same three switches are out. I haven't soldered before and don't have the tools (let alone experience) for the job so I need to get some and give it a try.

#3975 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I just used a cheap medium duty iron from Fry’s. I stripped the end of the broken wire, tinned it with a bit of solder, and then held it down with the iron over the previous solder blob until it melted.
I have a lot of experience soldering from my previous hobby restoring and fixing arcade games. If you have never soldered before I strongly advise finding a junk board and practicing a lot before you attempt to do it on your game. Put down a cloth so solder “drips” will not ruin your artwork.
As for the cord, I generally like cordless irons but this one was corded. We plugged it into the service outlet inside the game cabinet so the length of the cord was not much of an issue.

Thanks!!!!!

2 weeks later
#5187 1 year ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Interesting never would have thought to link it there.

I have my flasher hooked to the shaker also. For the GI connection I hooked into a spotlight so the Pin lights are always on. When connected to a spotlight the Pin light illumination is constantly on at whatever color and brightness you set them at. I started out with the GI tapped to an RGB insert light, but the Pin lights then just turned off when that insert light was illuminated as one of the two colors I hadn't tapped into. Made for a much darker game during modes when the Pin lights were off. I like playing in very dimmed lighting so I chose to go with constant Pin illumination from the spotlight connection. I also removed the bulbs from all the spotlights so now the only lights on are the Pin lights. For me, I liked doing that because it reduced the washed out lighting on the playfield from the spots and allowed me to get the overall lighting level where I wanted it. I've been happy with the result. There is reflection on the wire ramps, but I really stopped noticing it after awhile and it doesn't bother me.

#5189 1 year ago

I just had an interesting situation pop up. Wondering if anyone else has had it happen. During At World's End multiball, I used the left Black Pearl flipper to load the cannon on the upper playfield. Coincidentally (and unintentionally), on that same shot the upper left flipper on the lower playfield hit a ball that happened to be coming its way. That ball went around the inner loop and kicked off On Stranger Tides multiball. The animation for the start of On Stranger Tides multiball kicked on, and during that time the compass LCD and action button went inactive. That meant I wasn't able to fire the cannon until the On Stranger Tides multiball animation ended and the action button came back online. Unfortunately, the cannon shot timer must have expired and it dropped the ball out harmlessly out of the cannon right as the animation was ending. Probably a one-in-a-whole-bunch chance of a shot (and kind of a perfect storm set of facts lined up), but I was surprised I lost the cannon shot from having to wait for the animation on a new multiball to end.

#5245 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Duplicated this on the potcfixes page but originaled from pinballpal here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/50#post-4758736
Apparently JJP is now shipping with this fix so I guess it is now more or less official.

Sorry to be dense, but I can't tell from the picture and the description where the post needs to be placed to resolve the problem. I've had this issue pop up on multiballs. Just can't visualize for sure where the post needs to be put in.

#5384 1 year ago
Quoted from skyrex:

When I say this is the perfect theme for us I mean it. The ship has been in my living room for years.....and almost hesitate to say that we have a pirates of the Caribbean themed guest bedroom. lol
Amazing how many pirate type drinking liquors there are as well!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Forget about a ship in a bottle or a lit up flaming skull & crossbones. Bottles of Pyrat Rum, Kraken Rum, and Cannon Blast should be the toppers on every game!

#5432 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I’m really considering pinstadium - I don’t like how the spots reflect off the LCD and wash it out.
Do they turn on/off sections to simulate what the spots do when they turn off in certain areas?
I’m generally a “keep it stock” guy, but I’m considering this.

I put Pinstadium lights on mine and I'm happy with them. I like having more lighting coverage throughout the playfield and I also didn't like the washing out from the spots. I pulled the lamps from the spots so the only lighting (other than the playfield lights) is now the Pinstadium. I like having the color selection to enhance the color tone of the playfield and I like controlling the brightness to get the lighting level where I like it. The Pinstadium lights don't turn on and off in sections. The Pin lights have two connections, one connection for the UV flasher and one GI connection for the main lights. If you hook up the UV flasher connection to the shaker motor and the GI connection to the wiring for a spotlight, then the main strips of lights on both sides of the cabinet stay on constantly at whatever brightness and color setting you select. The UV flasher activates (flashes) for an effect when the shaker motor activates. My GI connection was originally tapped into a regular playfield light, but since the Pinstadium connection tap has two connectors and the playfield light has four wires (RGB & white), the Pin lights were off when the playfield light was illuminated as one of the two color wires I hadn't tapped into. To keep the Pin lights on full time I switched the GI connection to the wiring for a spotlight. I looked recently at the installation instructions on the Pinstadium website and that's what they're recommending to do now also.

#5449 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

So I’m on a flight back to Los Gatos and I’m bored. Let’s talk POTC gameplay, yeah?
Are you currently targeting chapters, multiballs, acheivement-based scores, or all of the above?
Who is your favorite character right now and why?
What are your favorite things about playing it?
I’ll start - I have been heavily multiball focused (trying to perfect the 666666) but I think I’ve been leaving a lot of points on the table by not working the chapters as hard as I should. I also go through the scoreboards, look for low hanging fruit on a character or task, and try to work that.
I play Pintel quite a bit right now, as he gets me to Arrr Frenzy fastest. I also like going random (hold left, hit right 5x quickly) and playing the game based on the character I end up with. Swann sucks! What a bore, his only buff/debuff is no plundering/can’t plunder.
My favorite moments are “rescuing” multiple multiballs at the last second, getting several good solid rips on the upper loop, and good hard spinner rips (especially during Arrr Frenzy).

Let me preface by saying I'm a novice and not a very good player. That said, I've been playing Tia Dalma for the ability to select what chapter to start and she makes it easier to collect the pieces of eight to start At World's End multiball. I've been working on trying to get pretty reliable at a couple shots (the left orbit and the star map) to qualify and play chapters. I use the left orbit shot as a bit of a crutch, and I like to send it around into the bumpers to build the mystery award. That makes me not a huge fan of the left orbit post assist on some chapters, but I've been trying to learn to anticipate it and use it.

I try to complete each chapter I start. That leads to more ball drains & lower scores but has definitely improved my shooting accuracy over time. I'm much more able to work the ball around and be in the neighborhood of shots than I was a couple months ago, and playing POTC has really improved my ability to shoot & score on my other machine too.

I love the multiple characters & multiple daily high scores (my kids love that they can get their picture taken for a high score every day and friends love getting their picture taken too), and I really love the stacking of multiballs & chapters. I think it's fun to have 3 multi balls going while working on a chapter, or better yet hit the starfield to start a chapter during multiball and then have to try to flip to the movie chapter I want to select & start it while keeping balls in play, or better yet have the cannon load during multiball and take a shot while trying to keep balls in play, and if I can also get Arrrrrr Frenzy going on top of all this then it's just amazing & awesome sensory overload! Oh, and when a multi ball starts, I also like switching my pirate lane award to Add a Ball. Just an incredible number of fun little things to monkey with and aim for while playing this game and it's a ton of fun discovering them all and trying to become a bit competent at it. Last night I played Ragetti a few times and liked being able to add a ball, so I think playing that character is going to be the next fun world of discovery for me. I've played the game most every day since I got it in early December, and I still find myself saying "Ok, one more game" over and over and over each time I play.

#5541 1 year ago
Quoted from Lazar:

Thanks for the feedback. The distributor is 3 hours away and the next closest is 5. I’m not excited about tacking on another 5%, and sounds like the value is to sleep easy. Regardless, I’m excited to be apart of the POTC team.

Quoted from Lazar:

In search of my first pin and landed at JJP POTC LE. Quick question to those with experience. The distributor I am going through adds on another $500 for delivery, setup, and one year warranty. I feel that I can handle transport and setup, but maybe you can tell me to not be so confident. If we don’t get the warranty the following occurs: we are 3 hours from the distributor and any service calls would require us to bring the pin to them if there is issue. Thoughts on whether I should pay the extra $500? Thanks in advance.

I bought this game and an older machine together as my first pins last fall, so I've been in the same boat as you. I don't have any mechanical and/or soldering experience, but I've been able to fix & adjust a couple minor things that have come up. I do still have two issues pending due to my lack of mechanical ability. Neither have kept me from being able to enjoy the game but it'll be nice when they get fixed. One is the broken green-brown wire under the mini Black Pearl playfield which takes three targets on that playfield offline (I haven't been able to practice soldering to try to fix it myself) and the other is that my chest ball lock mechanism has never worked (balls roll through instead of locking). One idea is maybe a middle ground between the $500 service fee and going it alone. What if you negotiate a price for the distributor to run through ZaphX's excellent posting of currently known issues and have the distributor set up the game at his shop & run through it to do anything preventive necessary to make sure all of those known possible bugs are taken care of? Maybe the distributor could then guarantee that setup work by saying if any of those currently known issues pop up on your machine in the next X months he'll do a service call to fix them? I don't know if distributors would typically make an arrangement like that, but I thought I'd throw the idea out there in case it's worth looking at as an alternative if you're good with doing your own transport and setup at home. I think you'll really enjoy having the machine, it's been a lot of fun to play!!!

#5747 1 year ago
Quoted from lapean111:

I see that post, but don't fully understand where the screw goes, or how it fixes the issue. Can anyone explain in more detail, possibly with a detailed photo or 2?
Thanks in advance!

I haven't done it yet myself, but I think the picture on comment #4968 (3rd picture down of the screw/post pushing against the plastic subway) and the description on comment #5265 are general idea of what needs to be done.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/100#post-4867175

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/106#post-4874225

#5818 1 year ago

Is there anything in the game that tracks the highest score(s) attained for a single shot, sort of a leaderboard for single shots? I haven't seen it among all the leaderboard items the game tracks, but maybe I missed it. I'd be curious to see something like that put into a game though, because with my eyes on the playfield most of the time I miss most of the individual shot scores as they're displayed in real time on the back screen.

#5844 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Run through the audits. There is plenty of crazy stuff tracked in there.
LTG : )

Thanks!

#6080 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

2. Minor bug. Sometimes when I'm in the yellow multiball (curse of black pearl?) Where you have to hit the canon shot for jackpot...which is hard as hell during multi ball.. the few rare occasions I have made that shot, I have also simultaneously started a second multiball. The ball gets stuck in the canon while the animation for the other multiball plays. The canon ball will eventually just dribble out of the canon, not letting me fire it.

Pinball-Keefer's post #5216 indicates that will be fixed in the next code release. Here's a link to his post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/105#post-4872993

1 week later
#6514 1 year ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Is there a mode where the spot lights are off on the Black Pearl? I played a game yesterday the the spots went off when I shot a ball on the Pearl and came back on when the ball left the Pearl.

I've noticed the lights (including target lights) on the Pearl turn off when, as a result of the ball getting kicked up to the Pearl, the Curse of the Black Pearl multiball gets qualified. I'm not sure what conditions have to be met for it to happen (x number of left loop shots or x number of times getting a ball on the Pearl maybe). But when this happens no target lights are on while I hit the ball around on the Pearl playfield. Then, like you said, the lights go back on when the ball exits the Pearl, but then the light indicating the multiball is qualified is flashing. Seems to just be an indicator that the multiball has been qualified. I could be wrong though.

10
#6531 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Problem is, it's mixed in with general conversation. A dedicated issue thread would be a faster read for new owners.

Just my 2 cents, but I'm guessing general conversation would also end up getting mixed into a newly created separate thread. I like having the one thread to keep up with and search. I also think keeping it as link to a live document that can be added to and updated is better than a pdf posted to the site that would have to be re-posted over and over to the thread for every update. Again, just my thought. Setting up this document with access for us has been a big deal and a tremendous help. Thanks zaphX!

#6648 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

There's one thing I still can't get working on my POTC and that's the annoying sticking action button. I've tried pretty much everything - bending the angle of the switch extension, removing the rough edge on the inner button shaft, adjusting and polishing the screw on the bottom, and adding lubrication. But the button continues to stick occasionally. Unless someone has another suggestion I guess I'll have to replace the entire unit and switch.

Mine was having the same issue. With the lock bar removed the button wasn't sticking though, so it seemed like my issue was that the narrow metal switch was slipping to the side of the screw head on the bottom of the button and catching on the underside of the screw head. I tried bending the switch different ways and the way that finally worked for me was to leave the switch flat but push the free end of it (gently!) just a bit toward the playfield so the narrow switch is no longer laying parallel to the front of the cabinet, but instead veering a bit away from it. I had tried bending the angle of the narrow switch or creating a bit of a hump in the middle of it and that didn't work, but just leaving the narrow switch flat and pushing the free end of it toward the playfield a bit so it doesn't slip to the side of the screw any more seemed to do the trick and mine's working reliably now.

And this is the second time I've made the same adjustment to correct it. It had the problem out of the box but it had been working with no issues for months after the first time I fixed it. Then I made a slight adjustment to the lock bar screws and the action button suddenly started catching again. The same nudge to the narrow switch fixed the action button both times though and it's working fine again. Seems as though having a slightly wider piece of metal for that switch so the screw head can't slip past it might clear up that particular issue.

#6923 1 year ago
Quoted from LordHelmet:

Not sure if anyone has installed Pin Stadiums on their POTC. I installed the Fusions and love them. If anyone has any interest about the how and why I connected what to what I’d be more than happy to share. Sorry about the bad video, took them on my one so 1 handed game play. Let me know and I can start posting.

What did you hook into to get the flashers popping? I have the regular Pinstadium lights and it had a 2-wire tap-in connection, so it could only tap into 2 of the 4 colors on the playfield lights and that meant they were inactive half the time. So I opted to just hook into the spotlights. Since they're constantly white the Pinstadium lights don't interact with the game for me. Do the Fusions have a 4-wire-tap in to connect to the RGB LEDs to get the full interaction?

#6927 1 year ago
Quoted from LordHelmet:

The fusions have the regular Pinstadiums as well as 4 wire tap flasher light connection. I connected my regular Pinstadiums the same way as you but I connected my addional flashers to the RGB connections on the boards.

Nice! Looked amazing in your video. That additional 4-wire flasher tap makes a big difference. Thanks.

#7083 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I agree. I think MGC will be all about Wonka and I for one can’t wait.
I still love pirates though and eagerly await fixes. Some of the main ones I want to see:
1. Chest lock fix
2. Don’t give/announce map awards until after the animation
3. Lock in character select immediately on plunge (newbs who don’t use the action button sometimes get unexpected characters)
As a nice to have, I’d like to see the color scheme on movie 5 to be more purple and less blue. It doesn’t match the inserts and it is sometimes confusing to tell if I’m in movie 4 or 5 chapters. (Just me?)

I know there are a ton of leaderboards for the game already (and I love that), but I'd like to see a couple added if it's possible. One for highest score for a single shot and one for highest score for a ball. I think those might be kind of interesting additions.

Oh, and an adjustment to improve the accuracy of my shots. That would be a REALLY great adjustment.

#7374 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Not sure I've ever heard that - I'll have to listen more carefully.

Yep, I'd like to see a bit more fanfare for completing a chapter and for entering a wizard mode too. They're both pretty good accomplishments that seem to deserve more than just a quick transition.

#7439 1 year ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Ya personally I feel like there should be a ball save at chapter select...been punished way to many times from the off chance ball hits nothing on way down.

Yep, I agree. It would be nice to have a quick ball save there. It's disappointing when the magnet flips the ball back and it still comes straight down the middle. Happens often enough that a quick ball save would be nice.

#7558 1 year ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Before I reload my software I'm wondering if you guys know specific times shaker engages . For the past week timing on mine seems off. I thought at start of multiball it would and successful canon shots can anyone verify

Mine didn't go off for the successful cannon shot. It did go off for starting At World's End multiball.

#7564 1 year ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Ok ty for info really think for canon shot it needs to hopefully in a update .

Yep, it's a pretty neat shot and the signature shot of the game. I think the animation for it is great, but it would be nice to add some shaker for it too.

#7728 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

What's the current best source for carbon steel balls?
I put in a set from Marco and I suspect one or more have already magnetized...I've had a couple instances of them sticking in the trough.
I realize there is some luck of the draw at play here, but before I reorder I thought I'd see what others recommend.
BallBaron seems to be out of stock.

Risking a jinx of myself here, but here goes. I have over 1,500 games played on my machine and I'm still using the balls that came with it. Haven't had any problems with them. One thing though is over 900 of those games have been played as Tia Dalma, which means the starfield magnet isn't on them as much. Could the starfield magnet be the main issue with magnetizing? Just curious.

#8124 1 year ago

Gameplay question (mostly)!!!! The manual says two hits on the Dauntless without it going through the hole destroys it and qualifies COTBP multiball. The past couple weeks I've noticed a few games where I've hit the ship twice without it going through the hole but the multiball didn't qualify. It seems to be qualifying multiball only when I get it through the target hole. When I hit the ship it plays the video animation for a hit, and I haven't had an error reported for Switch 48 so that means it's been registering hits. I also just took the glass off, pulled the playfield forward, and went into switch tests to check #48 by hand. When I rock the Dauntless by hand the physical switch clicks and the machine dings, so the switch seems to be okay. It does seem like the ship has be rocked almost completely left for the switch to click though, and if it only gets rocked halfway left then the switch doesn't click, so I guess maybe it's possible some of my missed shots just didn't rock it far enough left? I thought I had a couple of games where I twice got the animation for a hit without it qualifying the multiball, but I could be mistaken. Just thought I'd see if anyone has had a similar experience. Meanwhile, back to work playing & getting better at the shot so this becomes a moot point!

Should I put mylar on the side of the ship to protect it from missed shots? Sorry, I couldn't resist that one. I truly went back and forth on whether or not to make that joke but I couldn't help myself.

#8127 1 year ago
Quoted from anathematize:

Not that it matters really but part of the reason I un-starred and stopped following the thread was the lack of discussion surrounding the actual gameplay and strategy of Pirates and how everything in this thread has just devolved into a redundant problem solving and OCD preventative maintenance thread. There used to be some gameplay talk in here and it was nice to hear from others on their experiences - especially on a game with such dense rules and code.
Granted... I play Pirates on location so frankly I don't care about fixing the game or whatever slew of problems #XXX CE has out of the box. And I fully sympathize with anybody looking for some support when their new $9500 toy isn't working. So I'm glad this thread and the great people that post in here have been able to alleviate some of those issues.
But man - I guess I'm just more interested in hearing about how people are playing the game and some of the deeper exploiting of the game code that can be done with the various characters and their perks. I feel like that kind of discussion might actually help the people at JJP when they are looking at updating the code and balancing things out as best they can.

Gameplay question! I've played most games using Tia Dalma to try to get to wizard modes, but I'm thinking of trying Ragetti more under the theory that adding a ball can give me longer playing time and therefore a chance to play more chapters. Best way for me to get to wizard modes of course is to get better at shooting, but still... are there any preferences out there for which character to use to have a better chance at wizard modes?

#8132 1 year ago
Quoted from anathematize:

I believe its just a matter of a shot registering on the Black Pearl and then mashing the action button.

Yep, just hit the action button as soon as the ball goes onto the Pearl.

#8133 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Try Norrington - he’s able to mop up characters quickly because you get credit even if you brick the shots.
You might also get some results with Carina (more time for everything.)
Try to make the movie shot you’re going for, then make the chapter select immediately following...or at least before hitting another movie shot.

I like that Norrington idea. Quicker chapter completion = more chance to play chapters before I drain. I'm going to give that a try!

#8135 1 year ago
Quoted from anathematize:

Obviously this is completely anecdotal but I've had the most success attaining wizard modes using multiball focused characters and approaching the early part of my game on starting a multiball and ALWAYS having a Chapter running regardless of the color. And playing extremely safe even if it means timing out a Chapter.
After my first ball I usually look at what Movies have the most Chapters qualified and start focusing more on making that specific shot and then immediately starting the Chapter.
I fully admit that its a bit of a haphazard approach but I have much more success this way as opposed to using Tia Dalma and just picking the Chapters using the interface. I'm sure a more skilled player could take Tia and just run a clinic on the wizard modes with great play that would make me reconsider everything I've just posted. Probably part of the reason I love this pin.

Nice! That makes sense. Even when I play Tia Dalma I seem to play the most chapters when I get multiballs, but I haven't tried focusing on getting multiballs first and then playing chapters. I've always come out of the gate trying to play chapters. I like the idea of going right after multiballs to make it happen though. Thanks!

#8143 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Have to ask as my wife and I had an evening of competitive pirates and Most times we follow the pirate code (which is more of a guidelines anyway) but in this case she had pretty much the best game she ever had score wise then I lucked a Plunder half points.....lol Definitely damped the mood when I followed the pirate code but come on! How many of you have special pirate codes on Plundering depending on who you are playing against and as a team do you gang up on one person to feel real piratey! I so love this unusually gratifying element of the code, so fitting of the theme. Granted I am sleeping on the couch tonight.....

Plundering code/guideline here: wife, friends, & neighbors are always fair game. Plundering the kids not as often but certainly doing it sometimes (don't want to spoil them)!

10
#8145 1 year ago
Quoted from anathematize:

Also for any of you home owners. Somebody STILL hasn't posted a comprehensive character perks/negatives chart or table. Would be much appreciated if somebody could take the time to pick each character, hold down the left flipper and take a quick picture and upload to an imgur album.
Things like Will Turner's 5x skillshot multiplier are crazy good in a competitive setting if you know it ahead of the game. I've had 300,000+ point skill shots with him and in a tournament setting that is a healthy head start and often enough to outright win the game within 30 seconds on ball one.
But that 5x skillshot bonus isn't listed on the character selection screen. Kind of weird that JJP didn't just decide to list them all on the selection interface and instead buried them inside the instant info screen once you have started the game.

Challenge accepted!!! Here's a list of all the +/- attributes for each character (including JJP typo/awkward wording on Marty, Barbossa, & Angelica):

Salazar:
+ Multi drain ball save during multiball
+ Movie 5 multiball easier to qualify and scores double
- Multi drain does not happen often

Elizabeth:
+ 3 Chapters always lit

Will:
+ More time for combos
+ 5x skill shot

Jones:
+ Liars dice advantage

Jack:
+ Removes 2 least desirable mystery awards
+ Increased everything for treasures

Governor Swan:
+ Cannot be plundered
- Cannot plunder

Blackbeard:
+Every multiball ball saver is longer

Scrum:
+ Spot 1 female character per chapter at 5x
+ Female characters score 2x
+ Bonus X always held

Marty:
+ Refunded some gold when starting Tortuga multiball
+ Gold bonus is 50% more, gold collect increased value

Carina:
+ More time for everything

Norrington:
+ Easier chapter shots
- All chapters score ½ value
- Helper shots score ¼ value

Henry:
+ Spot character always lit during chapter
+ Shot chapter increase value doubled

Barbossa:
+ Easier multiball shots
- All multiball score ½ value
- Helper shots score ½ value

Pintel:
+ Spot some pirate lanes for the entire game

Bootstrap:
+ Movie 2 multiball easier to qualify and scores double

Tia Dalma:
+ Choose your chapter instead of random
+ Movie 3 multiball easier to qualify and scores double
- Decreased chapter multipliers

Beckett:
+ Pick up all gold with single action button press
- Gold bonus is 50% less

Angelica:
+ Spot 1 male character per chapter at 2x
+ Awarded skull hold at end ball every ball

Ragetti:
+ Once per ball add-a-ball in play when ball is aboard the Black Pearl
- Score ½ while add-a-ball is in play

Cotton:
+ Easier Black Pearl motion
+ Black Pearl scoring is doubled

Philip:
+ Movie 4 multiball easier to qualify and scores double

Gibbs:
+ Tortuga multiball scores double
+ Tortuga bumpers scores double

#8178 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Same here? I understood the characters had several more cost to value traits. Still a great list thanks!

Yep, I was thinking there were more negative traits also but for now these are the only ones showing.

#8366 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Humm.. ok, would be nice to know any conditions. I mean, I'm no pinball god, but I've definitely gone through many different chapters with many different character combinations and not once has that post popped up.

It happens when there is not a character to collect on the left orbit shot but there is a character to collect in the map hole or inner orbit shots. Like others said, the idea is to block a shot going up the left orbit in order to feed the upper flipper and collect those characters. Personally I find it a bit jarring and I'm still trying to get better at using it because 1) I'm never expecting it when it happens & 2) the ball often bounces so hard off the post that it flies past the flipper before I can use it. Here's the explanation from Keefer earlier in this forum:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/74#post-4834845

#8568 1 year ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Hear! Hear!
With all the posts that have been made in this thread since I last checked, I thought that maybe a new code update had come out.
Wishful thinking anyway ... SIGH

Ha! I know the feeling. I'm almost wishing this "how many games were produced" topic would revert back to the good ol' days of how to coat the entire machine in mylar & amber to preserve it. Almost.

Okay, game play question: What does everybody like to choose for their PIRATE lane awards? I've been going with Super X, then Bonus X, then Arrrrrrrr Frenzy as soon as it's eligible. I've never yet been able to get all 6 multiballs going at the same time though. I'm thinking of switching it up to maybe do Super X and then Add Gold. Seems to me like the best chance to get all 6 multiballs going is to start COTBP first, then Tortuga, and then get the other 4 running from there. I think I need to have Tortuga multiball pretty well teed up & ready to go first or second because I have zero chance/ability to hit the button to collect gold while one multiball is running, let alone while a couple or more MBs are going at the same time. Anyone have thoughts/strategies on this to share?

And as for the 10 million score posted by JustLikeMe... I mean... just... wow. Unreal score and well done.

Apologies for being off-topic

#8572 1 year ago

Just had a run of some good (for me) games. On one game I won enough treasures in a round of liars dice to start treasure hoard mode. I hadn't reached that before and I haven't seen or read anything about what to do in it so I was a bit lost. I just searched this thread and Pinside forums in general and not much comes up about it. Unfortunately my ball got bounced around in the pop bumpers for a bit and then thrown to the slings & left flipper couple times during the mode so I didn't have much chance to complete anything. Toward the end of the timer I did hit a combo and saw something flash on the screen so I'm guessing the goal is to make combos during the mode. No idea what they're worth or if there are different objectives though. Anyone have info on what the objectives & scoring are in the treasure hoard mode?

One other thing, similar to entering a wizard mode the game got relatively quiet for the treasure hoard mode. I'm hoping they add some more dramatic or louder music & effects for the wizard modes and treasure hoard. To me it feels a bit off/odd to have the regular game play be sensory overload with lights & sounds and then become a lot calmer for those modes. Still loving this game after about 6 months of almost daily play.

#8594 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Wait a minute. You have a girl friend ????
What forum are you posting on about that relationship ? I've got to read that.
LTG : )

There's a mylar joke to be made about that post but I'm not going to be the one to do it.

#8604 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Huh. Thanks guys, I'll check it out

Couple game questions that I've been trying to figure out lately but can't figure out the rhyme or reason to them:
1) Occasionally a skull light on the playfield will turn from its regular color to white. Anyone know why this happens? It turns back to it's regular color again at some point, so I'm guessing it must be a signal about something related to game play but I can't figure it out.

2) During Tortuga multiball you can occasionally add a ball by hitting a jackpot. Anyone know what causes that to happen? Is it after hitting a certain number of jackpots or hitting the scoop for a super jackpot?

#8619 1 year ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

Tune in tonight for a pre-release look at the new .99 JJPOTC code! Live at 8 p.m. Eastern: http://www.twitch.tv/buffalopinball
[quoted image]

Oh boy, here we go!!! Looking forward to this release!!!!

#8655 1 year ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Would love the ability to set a very short ball save when the tortuga scoop fires on the chance it fires a drain shot.
Even if you adjust the scoop, it can occasionally fire a weak shot that goes down the middle.
TNA does this and it avoids feel bads.

I second that motion! Same for after chapter select in the star map area.

#8657 1 year ago
Quoted from Axl:

Just a quick question , I am struggling to reach one wizard mode. (No luck yet)
How many of you have reached all 5 in a game and needs the final wizard mode ASAP?

I'm picturing someone needing a straight jacket and a padded room on the day they get through 4 wizard modes and then drain to end the game during the 5th one right before getting a crack at Break the Curse. My sanity seems safe since I don't realistically think I'll ever get 3 wizard modes played in a game.

#8659 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

The only one under consideration at the moment is Weatherby Swann. Pretty happy with the balance of the rest of them.

No but it's on a list to work into all games.

Thanks pinball_keefer for the work on this code. Can't wait to install & play it as a gift to my wife on Mother's Day lol. She won't care about the new code in the least, but hey you can't always get what you want right? Current plan is to tell her it's a date-sensitive install that can't be done on any other day. I give myself a 50-50 chance of pulling it off.

#8669 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Just fix the alignment on the Tortuga scoop and you'll never want a ball save there. When properly configured, it fires very reliably into the left flipper.

I have the same issue. Problem isn't so much alignment as it is the speed of the kickout varies from one time to the next. If I was getting consistent kickout speed then yes, I'd change the alignment as you suggest but I'm getting a consistent speed probably 5 or 6 times out of ten and then the other times the speeds are harder or softer with no predictability. When the ball comes out at the right/wrong speed it's SDTM instead of where it's usually hitting. The depths does the same thing for me. Sometimes it comes out of there hot and other times slower.

#8674 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Same.. and I've played with the power. I have the new scoop metal piece in hand, not sure if that changes the way the ball is kicked out (unsure if it hits it) but that might be something.

Yep, I've tried many different power settings too. Same inconsistency though. It just is what it is.

#8984 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I'm sort of surprised the games aren't internet connected yet.

Maybe one day we can say “Alexa, change my PIRATE inlane award.”

#9215 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Hey. Stupid question What does the Left Turnaround Loop Diverter Assembly do ? Does this put the ball in the depths rather than coming out the Devil’s Triangle? I think I’ve seen it move after hitting a bullseye? Sorry if this has been discussed. I did search.

Yes, I think you're correct that the diverter has the ball come out the depths instead of back out the Devil's Triangle opening. I think it diverts into the same hole as the Maelstrom funnel.

#9297 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Appreciate the kind words... It was always meant to be a bonus for a particular area or style of play, originally started off as just the 5 or 6 main characters. As time went on and we wound up with the chapter concept, it was taken as a challenge if we could get everyone called out in the game to be interesting. With such varied options, the occasional negative became necessary, but definitely not everyone warrants it.
Anyway, here's where we're at now. Bolded lines are changes since v0.99.[quoted image]

Arrrrrrrr!!! I love the new character traits! Really impressed with the addition of the constellation for Carina too - perfectly fitting for that character in the movie. Can tell a lot of good thought went into the traits for all of the characters. Still loving this game and playing just about every day!!!

#9309 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

That's cool. Then I could study the star map and figure out what I'm looking at.
I thought the starmap adjustment in the menu helped with reading it, but apparently the adjustment has to do with ease/difficulty of the corresponding shot.?

I think the starmap menu adjustment changes how quickly/slowly the lights flash together to make the image they're forming on the map easier or more difficult to visualize. Going one direction in the menu adjustment makes it so more lights are on at once and you can more easily see what the image is. Opposite for the other direction. I think I remember seeing or reading something about scoring related to constellations being decreased if you adjust the map to the easier side of default.

1 week later
#9482 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

To score with Tuner, do you hit the loop a bunch then next time around have to put it in the Map hole? I can usually hit 5-7 loops in a row, but have trouble hitting the Map hole while looping.

Yes you have to hit the map hole to complete the skill shot. You can go for as many loops as you want but you have to hit the map hole to finish it.

1 week later
#9984 1 year ago

Closing in on post #10,000 on this topic. I remember when I first started following it in Dec when I got my machine I think the topic had about 25-30 pages and something like 1,300-1,400 posts. Who’s going to be the author of post #10,000?

#10032 1 year ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

I am So doing that tomorrow. Yeah bad habit don’t care! Lol how did I not see this in the menu. Do you have a trick to make the flippers a 1/2” longer? Lol

I think you already posted the answer to your own question. Elizabeth Swan on a pole.

#10034 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Games started 650
Games played 150
I need to stop trying to get those high scores. Only cracked 1mill once. 450 is where I’m usually at. For me chapters seem to score more than multiballs.
Only got to kraken wizard by using Tiadalma. I think she is the easiest way to get to wizards. Without her I’ll be thinking “ok just shoot maelstrom only and then star map”. But then on a ball launch I’ll have already done the inner loop. And I love the left orbit. And the chest shot..... so I’m not regimented enough to keep to one target. Would be better if some of the shots are crap. I mean how satisfying is it when you shoot the right ramp and the ball goes all the way through the spinners on the Pearl. I was scared the game would be too stop and go. Besides the map target and the star map, it never lets up.

Have you given Norrington a try? I used to only play Tia Dalma but have switched more to Norrington on advice from a post some time back. Completing chapters is faster with him and I find that helps me complete a movie to get to wizard modes. It doesn't seem like it should work out that way but I'm not a great shot and I seem to do better when I'm not trying to be a sniper to start a particular movie chapter and instead just go more with the flow of the shots. When I play Norrington I get more into that mindset of not trying to be too perfect with the order of my shots so it seems to work out for me. The combination of all the different shots & characters in this game really is amazing.

#10037 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Who gets all giddy when a chapter you never saw before is selected? A surprise every time.
Also, did you notice that the screen shakes when the chapters are being selected (and cannons are firing)? Love that touch.

That is a pretty great effect. I had a thought the other night that it would be neat if they could put some sort of animation over the cannon door when that movie's wizard mode has been played. Right now I think after the wizard mode has been played the cannon door just stays shut the way it usually is when the chapter hasn't been qualified (although I haven't updated code so maybe it's different on .99). Might be interesting to make it look like a cannon has been shot through the door or have some other look to the door to indicate the wizard mode has been played.

#10058 1 year ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Norrington is my goto as you can complete chapters insanely fast. Norrington with 1 multiball I can fairly often complete 3-4 chapters. Best game I've had with him I had 2 wiz modes qualified with 1 almost qualified (17 or 18 completed chapters). Tia Dalma is where I go if I want to increase my chance to get to wiz mode as I can blow things up then select what chapter I want to play. Not too hard to do 5 chapters in one game with her, although 2 months in I still have not seen the last wizard mode DMTNT. Past couple days ive been focusing on it gettign pretty good at the devils triangle shot just a matter of putitng everything together now

Yep, Devil’s Triangle and Extra Ball shots give me fits. Can’t hit them when I’m trying but when I don’t need to hit them the ball frequently finds it’s way there as if to say “it’s this way, moron”. Love the challenge - it keeps me playing game after game.

#10066 1 year ago
Quoted from jarozi:

Is there anything better in this game than hitting a bullseye on Dauntless? Love the metal on metal 'CLANK' and accompanying sound and light show.
Only wish I could load the cannon more consistently. What's a good strategy for loading the cannon once the door is open? I can't find any consistent shot for getting it in there. At the moment I more or less flail and hope for the best.

Definitely! I love hearing that clank too! The variability of the shot from both flippers combined with the ship rocking makes it a pretty different challenge each time. Very fun though and that sound really does add to it. My best chance for loading the cannon seems to be when the ball happens to be at the left flipper as the ship is rocking left. I’ve yet to develop any consistency in being able to arrange those two things occurring at the same time though. Most of the time I’m just trying to keep it on board as long as possible and hoping for the best.

#10167 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

Mostly I lost the genetic lottery in terms of family heart disease history and being type 1 diabetic for 32 years which led to a heart attack.[quoted image]

Very sorry to hear that and very glad you're still sailing the pirate seas with us. This game is already brilliant as is, and anything more will be icing on the cake. Even though it's all too easy to get caught up in the rat race, health before work always. Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!

#10350 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackzarak:

Congrats bud, must be nice to own 2 of them ..
Question: does anyone know when I pick Ragetti the one eye pirate I put the ball in the black pearl and I dont get the extra ball what am I doing wrong? I got it the very first time but after that I tried it again but It wont activate anymore is there something I'm not doing right?

All you should need to do for Ragetti's add-a-ball is hit the action button as soon as the ball goes up on the Pearl. You can do it once per ball.

#10610 1 year ago
Quoted from Breger1:

How do you qualify with skill shot to advance? Do you mean the plunge skill shot to the ship entrance?

From page A-13 of the manual (the section titled “Skill Shots”):
3) Plunge the ball with medium strength to send the ball toward the top of the playfield. If you are able to drop it into the subway entrance, beneath the Black Pearl mini playfield, you are awarded points and one stage of progress toward sinking the Dauntless with the Black Pearl cannon (below, center) and qualifying The Curse of The Black Pearl Multiball. You also get to board the Black Pearl mini playfield in an attempt to further your progress (more on this feature to follow).

#10623 1 year ago
Quoted from Breger1:

I guess I was referring to if multiball can be started without the cannon shot?

Or get the load cannon light (green arrow) lit on the Black Pearl and then skill shot to advance it to the next step. Very simple concept. COTBP MB requires steps:
1) Raise Sails (spinners to light stand up targets)
2) Load Cannon (stand up targets to light green arrow)
3) Sink ship (load ball & fire while arrow lit)
4) Shoot Port Royal to start MB (insert flashing)

Whichever step you’re currently on, the skill shot will advance you to the next step.

#10654 1 year ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I'm guessing that the qualifying rules for COTBP are the same as the prototype JJPOTC's. eaglepin is correct with this, but … each qualifying attempt gets a little harder. According to what Eric told me (playing a game with him on a prototype), it's kind of like a 3 point shot in basketball. The 3 point shot is the cannon bulls eye shot that sinks the ship. The other possible qualifiers are worth 1 point - hitting the side of the ship or BP skill shot. For the first COTBP MB you need a total of 3 points with those combinations to be fully qualified for MB. The next COTBP MB you need a total of 4 points. The next 5 points, and so on.

That seems right. I've noticed that after playing COTBP MB trying to qualify it again seems a bit more difficult. It seems like more turns of the spinner are required to activate the stand ups (I'll try to not raise the hair on anyone's neck by saying raise the sails... oops I just said it), and it seems like the rocking motion of the ship becomes more difficult also.

#10749 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Im sure this has come up... How does one adjust the map disk height/angle. I expected to find a similar attachment to the creature playfield window where it attaches with rubber bushings, and you can tighten/loosen to adjust ride height? Thank you

These posts might help:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/84#post-4849012

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/49#post-4757198

#10778 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

What angle on the bubble are you guys putting your machine at?
I can’t use a bubble level app on my phone cause iPhones camera protrudes on the back so doesn’t lay flat
[quoted image]

Much wisdom from over 10K posts ago:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/9#post-4657535

I used the app and it seems to work on the iPhone because step 1 is calibration on a flat surface.

#10835 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

What’s the point of the magnet???? Is it all for show?
It’s like Santa all over again......
I just need to be left alone for a while....

I think I recall reading somewhere or seeing in a video where they said the original design did have the chapter selected by the ball hitting the targets as it was flung around by the magnet. The last target hit by the ball was the one selected to play. However they realized the way the mech was working caused the ball to be much more likely to hit some targets than others, so it wasn't going to be truly random selection (odds of the ball hitting some targets last were much greater than others). That led to creating the random choice by software.

#10838 1 year ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Thanks for clarifying Mr Eagle.
I guess it still looks cool.
So the switches are there to register an initial hit only?

I think so.

1 week later
#11115 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadem:

I wrote to Jack himself last week and he told me the manual issue was still under consideration. He said a manual would be provided but not necessarily a printed one for any model including CE's.

Honestly not trying to be a smart alec, just wondering what the interest is in having a printed manual as long as one is available online. I'd think it would be kind of like phone books now - good in print at one time but better online now with searchable text.

1 month later
#11730 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

When you removed the 2 nuts underneath did everything come off at the bottom i.e. the spring, plates etc.

Here’s a link to the advice I followed when I installed my Cliffy’s. Worked for me.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues#post-4934930

-1
#11731 1 year ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

On a different issue, I received my JJP Pirates pin about six weeks ago. It appears to me that I have a lamp issue with the arrows, or maybe this is normal. When starting up a game, the middle four arrows and the one on the right loop flicker (they are dimmer than they appear in the video), while the two left arrows are completely out.
When one of these shots is made, the arrows go full bright and all other game play is OK.
Is what you see in these videos normal for those arrow insert lamps? JJP Tech does not seem to know.
The first video is at the start of a game. The second video is during game play and the arrow to the ramp is flickering to the same frequency and the arrow behind it near the map hole.

One idea: Maybe watch an archived stream somewhere and check to see if what you’re seeing is the same on other machines.

#11754 1 year ago
Quoted from Galooch:

That is exactly what I'm going to try and do. I realize I need to actually play this thing and not worry too much about what could or might happen. All I can do is just be knowledgeable and prepared (thanks to you all) when things come up. However, below are some preventative items (either relatively simple to do or prevent some major issue down the road) to do before really playing:
Playfield:
- install JJP star posts, washers, mylars on slings
- spot check and address all other posts for ripples
- install all mylars (including star map, BP VUK and overboard area)
- grind/remove T-nut from MAP hole (this one scares me more than it probably should)
- check/align Mystery hole deflector
- Cliffys will need to come later
Black Pearl:
- test BP VUK power setting (will start with 20)
- check BP/Dauntless cannon alignment
Miscellaneous:
- check upper flipper for SDTM alignment
- spotlight e-tape connections
- check and tighten all loose nuts
- check subway post
I already know where to locate all of these answers and posts. I just wanted feedback on this list. Anything I missed that you guys would do if you were opening a NIB? Anything here that is overkill and I should just worry about later?

I’d put neoprene and steel washers (steel washer on top of neoprene washer) under as many mini posts as you can get to. One mini post on mine did already have a steel washer but I couldn’t add neoprene under it because the steel washer seems to be stuck in the clear coat.

Also check that both the chest lock mech and cannon load door (in the mini playfield) are working correctly. Out of the box, my chest latch needed to be slightly bent to hold balls in and my cannon door also needed to be adjusted because it was only staying all the way up. The arm connecting it needed to be bent so the door could close. I didn’t even realize there was a cannon load door until several months after I got the machine and I noticed it on a stream and said “What the...?”

Also, make note of the post I’m linking below. Not necessary to do it now but once the rubber at the corner of the star map area wears out you’ll need to replace it, so while you’re there I think it’s a good idea to also put the 1/2 inch post sleeve there. That should prevent needing to replace the rubber ring again for a long time (also helped cut way down on balls going SDTM after chapter starts).

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/227#post-5094603

I’d also consider the POTC pirate ship protector from Pinball life. I’ve had three switch wires under the Pearl break and need re-soldering due to bounce backs off the Dauntless. It also prevents balls from getting stuck under the Pearl. I put it in and I like having it there. Here’s a link:

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=POTCCS_UK

It’s a great game to play though!!! Welcome aboard!

#11758 1 year ago
Quoted from RTS:

I think it means you hit the action button when there was no gold to collect and the lower display and audio are telling you the next award you will receive for completing the Pirate lanes.

Shot X means the next shot you hit will be worth X times its usual value. Good for one shot. Super X starts a timer during which every shot you hit will be worth X times its usual value. So 2X is double value, 3X is triple, etc.

#11760 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

I hear the Shot X, Super X, when I play the game and Have No CLUE what they hell it means or what to do!!!

With over 11k posts in this thread there’s a lot of information available by keyword searching. More on the multipliers here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/8#post-4637259

#11770 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Hmm.
So one of these fatties?
https://www.pinballlife.com/12-sternsegadata-east-black-rubber-post-sleeve.html
Any other place these would help?

Yep, I got mine from Marco but it's the same thing. 1/2 inch high and 3/8 inch inner diameter. When I ordered I thought about whether or not it might make sense anywhere else but nothing jumped out at me. It would fit on the opposite post for the star map opening but that rubber was still in really good shape. I don't think it takes near as many direct hits like the left side does.

#11793 1 year ago
Quoted from Galooch:

Do you have a link to the right neoprene washers? I want to make sure I get the right sizes, at least for the slings.

I got my neoprene washers for the mini posts at Home Depot. I think they were 3/16 inner diameter (hole size) and 1/2 inch outer diameter. I’ll check tonight when I get home and then update this post with a link. I didn’t put any under the sling posts yet. That’s this weekend’s to-do.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-16-in-x-1-2-in-Black-Neoprene-Washer-4-Piece-815728/204276433

#11794 1 year ago

Yep that’s the one I bought. It’s working very well.

#11799 1 year ago
Quoted from RTS:

I put on neoprene washers on Day 1, the same day I unboxed my game. The clear around my sling posts was perfect - no damage because the game hadn't been played.
Six weeks later, I can now see rippling has formed in the clear at the base of the sling posts.
It looks like neoprene washers are no better than the JJP nylon washers.
Has anyone else noticed rippling with neoprene?

I’m not sure, but I think it’s a case of two different issues. One issue is rippling, and another issue is chipping. I put neoprene washers under the mini posts to try to prevent chipping at the base of them. I don’t know, but I don’t think a washer is going to prevent rippling, regardless of what material the washer is. If the clear is shifting and causing rippling I think it’s going to happen no matter what material the clear is pushing against.

#11800 1 year ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

Not sure I am getting an answer on this that I understand. Could someone with a Pirates start a game and see if any of the arrows are on low, flickering like in my video?
To clarify, these arrows go to full brightness after the shot is made. It is before the any shots have been made that some of these arrows flicker.
There are 9 arrows in this pin.
*At start up, the left two and the chest are out completely (until the shot is made). That accounts for 3 of 9 arrows
*The rest (6) all flicker.
-Map shot flashes as it should, then flickers red.
-Inner loop flashes as it should, but has a red flicker mixed into it.
-I cannot tell if the right loop is flickering, or on full brightness.

To clarify, what’s going on game-wise when the video was taken? I hear the “What are you waiting for?” callout, so I’m guessing it’s either the start of a new game or between balls on a game in progress, where some shots have already been made on a previous ball. The brightness of the right loop arrow seemed normal when it flashed. Your description of the arrows going solid after hitting the shots while others might be flickering seems consistent with normal game play.

#11806 1 year ago
Quoted from Heater:

What a bummer. Sure feels like JJP has washed their hands on this game. Too bad since it's so much fun to play. Just want it to move up to it's full potential.

Still less than one year since the games rolled out the door and they had an update in May with another one a few months before that. If they hold a pattern of every 4-5 months for a release we’ll have 1.0 by October, which I think is right around when games shipped last year.

#11808 1 year ago
Quoted from Heater:

Positive thinking. I like it!

I’m not saying I’m confident it’ll happen. I’m just saying I think they’ve still got a bit of time until it’s time to get negative on that topic. There’s a subtle difference

#11822 1 year ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

It is at the start of a game. Nothing has happened other than I selected a character.
So "normal" game play is to have three arrows completely out, but the rest flicker? What is really silly is that the (I think it is called) inner loop mixes the colors when it flashes.
So from these comments, I am getting that my game is running just like all the other games? This tells me that mine is not a hardware malfunction, but likely a software bug?
Anyone else care to start a game, pick a character, then look at your arrows (do not shoot the ball).

I looked at my game when I played last night and prior to plunges I had the same flickering and mixing of colors on the inner orbit and map hole lights, which is done on those lights to call attention to the skill shot available off the plunge. My large red arrow on the Open Seas (outer right orbit) was also flashing the same as yours prior to plunges. And my left orbit arrow also flickered a bit. I’d have to look again tonight at the specific case of what your other unlit arrows are doing after power up and selecting a character, but it seems to make sense those would be unlit until their respective shots are made.

My thinking is the lights on your game appear to be working the same as mine prior to plunges (though I’d have to double check the specific instance of after character selection). You’ve said none of the lights on your machine are completely inoperable, and that they come on when shots are made, so it seems like your lighting is correct and that’s just how the machine is programmed. If your main issue is just with what’s going on prior to plunges and you don’t have any inoperable lights, then my thought is your game is lighting as normal. Have you viewed any archived streams online to compare how those machines are lit after character select? You’d want to view a stream of a machine that’s using the same code yours is currently running.

#11823 1 year ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

DONE !!!! NOW I just need to do the Depths as that looks like a PIA....If anyone has install directions and pics that would be great[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

For Depths I just lined it up at the edge of the hole from the topside, put my middle (longest) finger on it and slowly slid it over the edge until the lip of the protector was hanging onto the edge of the hole. Then, going slowly to hold the protector in the same position, I slid my finger a fraction of an inch into the hole and pressed the back plate of the protector forward toward the front of the machine and it snapped into place. Your magnet will come in handy if you slip up and drop the protector into the hole the first couple times like I did. Also, I unscrewed the wire return from Malestrom and slid it down through the Devil’s Triangle rock as far as it would go so I could then turn it out of the way (laying more horizontal across the playfield) so it wouldn’t block my hand. Put a rag or towel on the playfield under the wire so you don’t scratch anything. It seems daunting but on my 3rd try it snapped into place easily.

#11873 1 year ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

My black pearl was removed to resolder some wires that came off underneath. Since going back on, I'm convinced the ship never fully tilts down far enough to make the dauntless shot. Should the rod through the backboard travel to the bottom of the slot as mine only goes down about 2/3 of the way. Any ideas why the range of vertical travel may be restricted?

I’ve only taken it off and put it back on once, but here’s one thought on a way to troubleshoot it: if you turn power off and unhook it from the linkage arm it’s connected to behind the back wall, can you manually rock it back and forth the whole way or is it still limited? If you can rock it the whole way then the issue is with the connection to the linkage. If you can’t manually rock it the whole way then the issue might be that it’s not seated properly or there’s a wire in the way under the ship. I don’t know offhand if the rod usually goes all the way to the bottom when it’s connected and powered. I can look at mine tonight.

#11874 1 year ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

My black pearl was removed to resolder some wires that came off underneath.

These wires have been an issue for me too. Anyone know if re-soldering is the only option or is there a different way to make a reliable connection that won’t be as likely to break?

#11880 1 year ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

My black pearl was removed to resolder some wires that came off underneath. Since going back on, I'm convinced the ship never fully tilts down far enough to make the dauntless shot. Should the rod through the backboard travel to the bottom of the slot as mine only goes down about 2/3 of the way. Any ideas why the range of vertical travel may be restricted?

I just checked and the rod on my Black Pearl also does not travel all the way to the bottom of the slot. There's still a decent gap at its lowest point both when there's a ball on the Pearl and when there's a ball loaded in the cannon ready to shoot.

#11894 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Stephen from JJP on the JJP Google Group said on August 14th that "New code will be coming at some point". The term "some point" sounds like it could be a while until we see new code which would be very disappointing. It sounded like Keith was working on the super wizard mode as of early April when Eric was talking about it at MGC. At the time Eric said that the super wizard mode was shaping up nicely. Nearly 5 months has gone by since then.
This is just speculation but I'll guess Keith has been tasked by JJP management to work on the next game, likely JJP #6 which may be revealed at Expo. It's no fault of Keith's, he's got to work on what management tells him but for owners that purchased $8.5k - $12.5k Pirates it's a bummer to see the code not feature complete and polished after 2 years...I know JJP will get the code done and give it the attention it needs, was just hoping it would be sooner rather than later.

“At some point” definitely doesn’t sound encouraging. I’m thinking mid- to late October would be a reasonable time frame (about a year after shipping) but I’m not holding my breath. JJP seems to be pretty far from firing on all cylinders right now.

#11896 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Not sure where you’re getting that from - they are actively working on 2 more games, plus WOZ, DI and Wonka have all gotten updates recently. TH is pretty much “done” (although there are some bugs I don’t think they want to spend much more time on that game)

Where I’m getting what from? It was posted that someone at JJP on Google said code will be coming “at some point”. To me the phrase “at some point” doesn’t sound like it’s only 1-2 months away when it’s coming from a representative of the company. I hope I’m wrong though. As for JJP not firing on all cylinders I wasn’t referring to just code. I was referring to my impression of their overall operation (products and service) based on my own recent experience with them.

#11953 1 year ago
Quoted from Heater:

Unfortunately you are going to need to remove the BP. Once you do that you can easily remove the nuts that hold the plastic. While there you might as well do a good cleaning and check the mylar in the starmap. After you remove it a few times, it will be second nature and not a big deal.

Quoted from koops:

(If I am asking this in the wrong thread please let me know!)
I’ve been reading through all the old posts and saw the yelobird lantern fix.
I can’t remove the left side of the black pearl plastic due to the rear of the ship holding it down. Am I supposed to brute force it over the top?
[quoted image]

Are you talking about the black railing on the left side of the upper playfield in your picture (with the nut in the middle of it) or the clear plastic under the upper playfield and above the star map area? If you mean the black railing in your picture, can you remove the back of the Pearl so you can lift that plastic off? The left side top rear of the ship above the cannon door can be easily removed by three nuts behind that section near the coil on the back of the ship (between the upper playfield and the back board of the cabinet). Maybe you can lift that section up so you can remove the railing plastic?

If you’re referring to the clear plastic over the star map then go with what Heater suggests.

#11955 1 year ago
Quoted from koops:

The black plastic that has the lanterns on them. I couldn’t see any screws that held in that rear plastic and I feared that it was held in from the underside. I need to adjust the left “load” switch anyway. It leans left under the gate so most shots don’t register.

Yep, here's a link to a post with a picture of what it looks like with that rear plastic off, and the three screws that fasten it from the back.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/40#post-5154002

1 week later
#11975 1 year ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Because of fun or the tweaks needed? Maybe both?

VERY fun game to play!!! Tweaks haven't been too crazy. Welcome aboard!!!

1 week later
#12062 1 year ago
Quoted from arzoo:

The mylar to the right of the map hole was lifting but I flattened it, pressed it back down, then installed the cliffy over top. Problem was after a few days the mylar lifted again and this caused the cliffy to lift just slightly which affected the ball more than I liked. So I ended up removing the cliffy and pulling up the bad mylar. I'd like to know why so many owners have reported bad mylar around the map hole - did the JJP employee who's job it was to install that section decide to punk us all?

Seems like just because of the shape of the area and the Mylar there’s a fold there from how they put it on. It didn’t impact ball travel on mine. I just snipped the middle of the fold and it laid down flat, then I put the Cliffy over that.

#12072 1 year ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I only have a bit of pooling around my adjustable outlane posts on one side. Other than not being able to adjust the difficulty, everything seems ok and the coat seems hard. Should I be worried about these issues?

I don't know that anyone knows for sure if there's an indicator that pooling will turn into a chip. I ended up with chipping at the base of my movable I-Lane post. I glued it back down and put a neoprene washer under a regular steel washer under the post. I don't know if putting the washers in will 100% prevent chipping but I don't think it will hurt.

#12073 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What do you mean by “not being able to adjust the difficulty”?

Moving the adjustable posts changes the difficulty by making it more or less likely for the ball to drain down the I-Lane or E-Lane, depending on which hole you put the posts in.

#12093 1 year ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Pretty sure that was addressed somewhere and they are "working" on it. Can try to clean/align opto but not sure if it would help. Hopefully next code update will fix this and a couple other issues

I think I remember the same thing where some issues with the inner loop registering were mentioned as being code related. I haven’t noticed that one, but I’ve often had issues with having Dead Men Tell No Tales multiball qualified and hitting a solid shot through the turnaround in Devil’s Triangle without it registering to start the multiball. Seems to occur most frequently when I already have a couple multiballs running and there’s something else going on in the game (like a jackpot or mystery award) that seems to take precedent over the shot registering. I’m hoping that gets fixed in code also.

#12096 1 year ago
Quoted from Troz:

That is most likely a physical issue where the ball is not travelling through the mini loop at the end of the shot and thus not triggering the switch to start the multiball. Seems like the ball sometimes ricochets off the ball guide at the top instead of following the curve to the right.

Yeah I know what you mean because I’ve hit plenty of those shots that don’t quite make it to the top The instances I’m describing though were 100% through the top of the shot.

#12113 1 year ago
Quoted from Galooch:

Has anyone else installed the cannon shield from pinballlife.com? It sites next to the BP to prevent any damage from ricocheting cannon shots. I ordered mine and they have a picture (below) that shows where it goes, but not really how it gets attached. It is hard to tell if it sits on the plastic piece next to the chest or the star map plastic. If anyone has any other pictures or instructions that would be great. Thanks!
[quoted image]

I have it installed. It sits under the two nuts that hold down the plastic over the star map. I was able to get a small wrench in there to raise the nuts off. The narrow protective plastic above the nuts is held by a flexible rubber piece so I was able to lift and twist it enough to get at the nuts and slide the new Pearl protector on without removing that top plastic. I recommend trying (without forcing it too much so you don’t break the rubber connector) to do it that way first because I found one time that I wasn’t able to get the flexible rubber pieces for the top plastic back through it without removing the rubber connector from the star map because it was just too flexible, and then you might be down a path of removing the Black Pearl just to get that rubber connector piece back on. You should be able to do the install without disconnecting the top plastic protector though. Here are a couple pictures where I circled the nuts that have to be removed. Hope this helps.

B3DFC181-E06E-4723-B4DB-3EE6926BBEF7 (resized).jpegB5F05FF9-B663-4448-B484-28AC16097E1E (resized).jpeg
#12114 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Also, is it normal for this wireform to be slanted like this? Thanks![quoted image]

My wire is twisted a bit at the end the exact same way. Hasn’t been an issue for me. The only problem I had with the wire was it was a bit too low by the Tortuga Tom pop bumper and it caught balls sometimes, but I just slightly bent it up in that spot and it’s all good.

#12158 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Wondering how the ball got here under the BP? Any ideas? [quoted image][quoted image]

Most likely rolled under the BP and then through the hole in the playfield under the BP that the BP wiring goes through.

#12159 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Does the gap between the VUK and the BP look pretty normal? Ball can’t make it up....[quoted image]

Have you tried increasing power to the VUK to see if that gets it up there?

#12195 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Dang! I thought about that but the bumper cap and ramp get in the way. Do I really have to remove or loosen the clear ramp to remove the ship if I remove the VUK? I would rather not mess with that ramp unless it’s totally necessary.

I took the Pearl off without touching anything on the ramp and only removing the VUK.

#12196 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks Scott! How many wires in total below to the ship? Don’t wanna mess this up

Here's a link to a post with good information on removing the Pearl. I followed the recommendation to using a sharpie to number each side of the connections so it's easier to identify which ones go back together.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/65#post-4814032

#12200 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks guys! Having trouble removing the shooter lane wire form.

I might be wrong, but I don't remember needing to remove the shooter lane wire form to get the Pearl & VUK off (assuming that's why you're looking to remove the shooter wire).

#12205 1 year ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Too late for me. I pulled the other nut and the tiny screw. This nut just win’t budge and the whole post keeps turning. Can’t just pull the ramp up since there is a plastic that prevents that.
I do still wanna remove it since I plan on installing titan rings all over this thing and there are 2 right there[quoted image]

Of course it's your machine and you should do whatever you like with it, but I haven't replaced those rings and they're still in good condition after a lot of play on mine. It's not a spot that takes a big beating so they haven't worn down. It's up to you of course for what you want to do, but I just thought I'd offer that the existing rings have worked pretty well on mine so I've avoided the hassle of trying to replace them. Good luck!

#12224 1 year ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Could someone do me a favor and take a pic straight down at the gap between your BP and the ramp?

Here’s mine. Ball sometimes gets hung up on it but not very often.

0937040F-BBA3-46CB-AFDA-721F611E5F15 (resized).jpeg
#12262 1 year ago

Arrrrrrr ya scallywags. Today is international talk like a pirate day.

2 weeks later
#12454 11 months ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Do you work for jjp? How would you know that it has been started other than a post from 4 months ago. Just because a post was made that outlined a few character changes does not mean that anything has been started other than a few words in a forum. Meanwhile since our last update every other jjp machine has had updates including bigger ones that changes scoring and overall feel of the game. These games were already feature complete and while they may of needed updates there should be 0 prioritization of older machines to get updates over incomplete machines. Meanwhile I have a 10k toy that does not even have basic features programmed into it yet. Like for example I would love set my machine to easy 5 ball for mom and sis so maybe they could get a legitimate high score (I’ll often put in their names on my games so every high score isn’t gnar) but this basic feature is missing. Once again if they would communicate what is going on this would not be an issue. Hell they could even push an update that changes small thing and the argument would be over. But at this point a small update would just piss people off cause it’s been what 6 months since the last update that changed minor things and added things that don’t even reliably work (yes I’m talking about eyepatch parrot thing)

Yep, all very good points. At this point if JJP wants to demonstrate they're consistent in supporting all their games then the next POTC code update needs to get done soon. Otherwise buyers would have to start considering it a crapshoot as to how much code support any new title from JJP gets. Will their next new machine be supported and get code updates quickly or will it be pushed to the side for the next release (or for a game a few years older)? It's happening to Pirates so why wouldn't it happen to another new title from them? Wonka has had a lot of updates in a matter of a few months. Pirates has had 3 updates in a year.

Sure, the final wizard mode is crazy difficult to get to, but that's not an acceptable reason for it to not be in the game yet. In addition to the character trait updates posted 4 months ago, there are a lot of polishing items that should also be included in an update. We're now at or very close to 1 year since the first games shipped so at a minimum getting the game feature complete is definitely past due. I realize there have been health issues and that's unfortunate, but if JJP is too reliant on any one person to get something done on a game then that's a weakness within their organizational structure.

In my experience with JJP over the past year, communication definitely hasn't been a strength of theirs. The following is from This Week in Pinball on October 30, 2017:

"Pirates of the Caribbean New Info
As mentioned previously, Jersey Jack Pinball announced their newest game Pirates of the Caribbean at Expo. The game is packed with features and the response from the pinball community has been overwhelmingly positive. (Check out TWIP’s Deep Dive into the game here.) We reached out to Jersey Jack Pinball to find out some additional details:

The game will ship with the code at “Rules Complete” with all features included in the game (it was at around 20-30% at Expo)"

https://www.thisweekinpinball.com/twip-guardians-galaxy-rumor-round-jjp-pirates-new-info/

#12457 11 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I agree in spirit I guess, but it doesn’t sound like you’ve owned a recent Stern ... they have taken forever on many of the recent games

Whether that's true or not about Stern games really shouldn't have anything to do with this. The question isn't "Who does code updates more frequently?" it's "Should POTC be further along in it's code at this point and is it getting the same attention in code support as other JJP games?"

Even if that's true about Stern would it be a good reason for JJP to slack off on it too? "Hey, the other company isn't doing a very good job at it so why should we work to do much better than them?" That wouldn't be a very good way to earn customers and run a business. This isn't about making a comparison to anyone else, it's about what should the company that made this machine be doing to build the trust of its customers.

#12460 11 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I suppose I meant “this is the current state of affairs with prices as they are, and the limited resources the companies are working with.” JJP (or any well-Run company) does JUST enough to stay ahead of the competition, so as not to over-spend and cut into potential profit. We know the margin was razor-thin on this game, after all the R&D money was spent on the mechs, and particularly the 3-disc spinner which was entirely scrapped.
Anyway. I’m not disagreeing that it would be great to get an update, just that it’s beyond reasonable expectations to see one for this particular game so soon after the last one, when we know they are on game 5, and given Keith’s health situation. But I’m hopeful, Pinball isn’t always reasonable !

I guess we'll agree to disagree on that. POTC has had 3 updates in a year and next Saturday the last update will have been 5 months ago. I don't see that as being so recent that the next update shouldn't reasonably be expected yet, especially when the number of updates on Wonka says otherwise and when all features are not currently in the game (regardless of how attainable the features are) even though they had said the game would ship with all features included (and they put that bit of information out there almost two years ago).

The whole thing could be made much smoother with even a little effort at communication, but again that's just not something they seem to be interested in and to me it's another indication of how they really feel about their customers. Actions speak louder than words when it comes to how a company feels about its customers.

#12489 11 months ago
Quoted from statsdoc:

So, I tried another approach since my BP ramp was rubbing on the bolt underneath it (which was messing up the decal). Let me know if the following does not make sense:
There are two posts supporting a sling under the BP ramp. They are attached at the top with a flat metal piece. With the bolts going through the metal piece and the plastic posts (for the sling), the bolts were just too tall and rubbing on the ramp. I wondered if they were forcing the ramp to be too high on the left as I could not lower the ramp further. In essence, the bolt closest to the BP ramp entrance was providing a ramp support. My solution was to take about an eighth of an inch off the plastic post (closest to the BP ramp entrance) to provide the BP ramp more space to move down and not hit these bolts.
I also took out the rubber piece on the ramp support on the right to give me more latitude to move the ramp down to its lowest position. (I am talking about the ramp support that you screw tighter to lower the ramp.) This allowed the ramp to be at its lowest setting. I have no more ramp rubbing against the bolt (which I understand is causing some ramps to distort) and my BP ramp is as smooth as silk. Even though I have about a 1/4" gap between the ramp and the BP, I no longer get balls stuck on there and the gate at the top of the ramp also does not catch balls. I ordered a Cliffy for the BP entrance, but I do not see significant contact of the ball with the BP edge. Regardless, the BP is not always level, so the ball could contact the edge anyway so it needed protecting in my opinion.
I do not know if this will work for others, but it did wonders for me. The main thing is to check your BP ramp and its contact with the bolts under it. That will be a long term problem if it is not addressed ... and an expensive one if ramps need to be fabricated because of lack of inventory.

Nice! Thanks for posting this. I’m going to check it out on mine.

#12540 11 months ago
Quoted from skyrex:

So quick game question. In liars dice I have twice bet “Your soul” and lost each time. The game then froze both times. Had to turn it off to get it to work again. Software glitch? Also what should happen if you win? I really like liars dice and have played it a lot. This is the only situation that seems to cause a glitch.

I remembered this being mentioned a long time ago. Here are couple old posts about it. Maybe something like, oh, I don't know, a code update could fix the bug that causes it to freeze:

Quoted from pinball_keefer:

In the context of liar's dice, souls refers to characters collected from chapters. You can double or nothing your characters to really help your wizard mode scores (or not).
Unless it says "your soul." Tread lightly!

Quoted from VillaThrills:

Yep, same here. Also if you bet your soul on liars dice and lose, the game hangs.

#12552 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Yes. There's one behind the chest that you have to have a long screw or nut driver to get to because you have to kind of angle it behind the mini-coil area to get to it where it connects the bracket to the playfield.

Here’s a picture of it with the screw circled in yellow. It’s not super easy to get at and you might want a magnetic tip to put it back in.

DEAB7C32-C3F9-4E1F-A635-6075853567D7 (resized).jpeg
-2
#12588 11 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

“At some point” definitely doesn’t sound encouraging. I’m thinking mid- to late October would be a reasonable time frame (about a year after shipping) but I’m not holding my breath. JJP seems to be pretty far from firing on all cylinders right now.

Good thing I haven't been holding my breath the last two months since writing that. Still waiting for #JJPOTC 1.0 code. Pretty telling about a company when a lack of confidence in them is reinforced by their continued lack of action. One year since first shipments of machines and no 1.0 code. Do they want to get it done by year-end? Who knows, it's not like they seem interested in communicating with their customers or anything.

#12593 11 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

I hope we hear something as well about Pirates code at Expo. If JJP doesn't say anything hopefully someone at the JJP seminar asks about it.

If someone does ask about it I’d imagine they’ll just give a standard non-response and say yes they’re working on it and it will be out soon without giving any timeframe.

There’s no indication they’re putting any effort into #JJPOTC. In hindsight I think it’s clear now that when you see only 2 code updates ever issued on the game and none since the end of April plus zero communication on any new updates it’s not a big leap to figure work on Pirates was put on the shelf earlier this year to develop Wonka. Wonka has already had many times the number of updates in far less time since its initial shipping. I’m sure they’re also now working on whatever their next title is, so between that and Wonka their attention is likely far away from Pirates. Just because JJP has supported code on the other games they’ve made doesn’t mean they’ll support Pirates the same way. That shouldn’t be the case, but JJP seems to operate pretty inconsistently in general so I don’t think it’s a stretch to give it a pretty high probability of actually being the case.

I don’t think it’s a stretch to envision them leaving Pirates code hanging for awhile longer. I hope they prove me wrong, but they haven’t so far and they’ve had plenty of time to do so.

#12594 11 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

The expo thread implied that Keith had a bunch of big announcements but no one apparently actually saw the feed
Edit: sorry, I guess the announcement is on Saturday

I hope #JJPOTC code is one of them, but you’d think a company shouldn’t consider a code update to an old title as worthy of being lumped in with any big announcements. If it is then they don’t have much going on.

#12597 11 months ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

That's what I always tell the engineers... "should be easy" and "shouldn't take you too long". They LOVE that.
Geez, if I didn't already know, I'd guess you were from DOWNER'S Grove.

When you compare JJP code support on Wonka to the support on POTC it seems like it’s not an issue of them not having had enough time on POTC. I think their Wonka code support shows they can do it when it’s a priority. They just haven’t chosen to do it for POTC.

I hope they shift priorities a bit to get what I think is now an overdue (1 year past shipping) Pirates 1.0 done. I’m just analyzing the development history of #JJPOTC and how it intersects with JJP’s other recent work. I think their last 6 months of work speaks for itself with regard to their priorities. And yes, laying that out may seem like a downer. I wish the facts were different and I didn’t feel the way I do about their support for Pirates code. But I don’t think it’s unreasonable to say the game should be rules complete by now and that getting the code there hasn’t been a priority for them. The issue lies solely with their (lack of) delivering updates on Pirates.

#12599 11 months ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

You're not wrong but the reality is Wonka is still available for sale so it's going to have higher priority.
Considering they just shipped a nice Dialed In update, I'm confident we'll see improvements with POTC as well... eventually.
Since I'll never reach the POTC wizard mode, I'd like to ensure all of their available coders are focused on improved pirate hats, parrots, and eye-patches for the best 'score of the day' photos.

Yep, any updates at all would be good to have. I don’t think we should have to wait as long as Dialed In though.

#12611 11 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Wonka is nowhere NEAR as polished as the existing jjPotC code, hence the need for more frequent updates. jjPotC doesn't need a whole lot, and I doubt most players have gotten anywhere near where the Wizard mode goes. Keith posted a picture of the updated pricing screen from the attract mode a while back and there's been little bits here and there, so the code is being worked on, it's just not a priority with Wonka needing the most attention (and currently shipping). Basically jjPotC code needs some bug fixes, more polish on the movie wizard modes (which are there, but not super-impressive), and the final wizard mode. What's already there is more than 99% of other machine's code and plenty impressive. This is not a Munsters situation.

Time keeps flying by and Keith's post was 5 months ago now. I think it should be a pretty reasonable ask to have the features in the game 1 year after it first ships, regardless of how attainable they are. There will always be a reason for the company to prioritize other work ahead of it, and those reasons will just continue to grow in number as time goes on. With JJP not issuing any communication and not even releasing any minor #JJPOTC updates for any polishing items since the end of April I think it's fair to start wondering what the situation is.

#12634 11 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Read some rumors in another thread that Keith may talk about new Pirates code at Expo. JJP's seminar is tomorrow night. Fingers crossed for some Pirates code update news!

Hope so. That would be nice.

#12635 11 months ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Oh wow... good to know.
I can ensure you Extra Ball is NOT the "default", but let's go with that!! Must be a pretty rare feat!

I set mine to award an extra ball for special too. I need all of them I can get. I think I remember getting awarded Special in either the mystery or the map once (I think it was a mystery award). I thought I read somewhere once in game rules that there’s a way to be awarded Special through gameplay also by making some shots or something but I forget. I think an insert by The Depths hole is labeled Special but I haven’t ever noticed it lit.

#12693 11 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I recently discovered what a huge difference fresh coil sleeves can make in a game.
I did them at around 4200 plays on Wonka and the flippers became as snappy as new. I did it on POTC (around 3400 plays) and I'm also happy with the result, I can make the chest shot consistently from the left flipper now!
I did all 3 flippers, the Depths VUK and the Tortuga VUK. However, Depths is still somewhat inconsistent. Around 5-10% of the time, it seems to shoot out with too little force, and drain in the I lane.
This is really disappointing when it happens, because it's not a skill thing...you just plain got screwed out of a ball.
I keep the game clean and waxed and the one way gate is not binding in any way.
Has anyone found a cause/fix for these occasional I lane dribble drains?

My Depths has also always been very inconsistent and I finally looked at it last weekend. I think the issue is the amount of play/wiggle of the plunger within the coil sleeve, and that’s causing the plunger to line up just a very slight bit off center when it’s at rest, but it’s enough that the ball is kicked at a different angle and so comes through at a different speed.

I’ve had similar issues with a cannon VUK on my STTNG and with the Tortuga scoop on POTC. They were all super inconsistent in kicking the ball out. My Tortuga scoop would very lightly kick the ball out one shot and then the next could come out like a rocket. I changed coil power up and down but always got the same inconsistency. Then I finally realized that on the ones coming out weak, the ball seemed to hit the deflector differently than on the strong kicks.

So a few weeks ago I checked the Tortuga scoop and realized when base of the plunger came back down to rest, the base was often just a bit off center resting on the bracket - meaning the plunger was just very very slightly not lined up not the same way for its next kick as it has been for the one before. It was only off by the slightest amount of wiggle, but I think it was enough to cause an inconsistent ball exit angle from one kick to the next. That then would lead to the ball hitting the deflector differently and having a different speed on each shot.

So I snipped just a very small amount of foam weather stripping and duct taped it to the base of the Tortuga VUK coil bracket, so the plunger base would have a softer resting spot just a bit higher up and it would line up more consistently each time. The weather stripping had to be snipped just thin enough so the tip of the plunger wouldn’t trip the opto when there wasn’t a ball there. The kick out became INSTANTLY more consistent and has now had every kick out at the same speed for three weeks after having been inconsistent since I got the machine last December.

When I checked the Depths this weekend I found its plunger has A LOT more wiggle than Tortuga, and the plunger is horizontal instead of vertical. So I think the same thing is happening. I think the plunger is resting at just a very slightly different angle for each shot, causing the exit path of the ball to be only just a bit different, but different enough to dramatically alter the ball’s speed coming out. I was going to do the weather stripping to see if it would work but I didn’t have a lot of time to monkey with it and I forget why, but I remember thinking at the time it might not work as well due to the plunger being horizontal instead of vertical like Tortuga. I’m going to try to get to it this weekend.

So, ridiculously long story short, I think I have a plausible theory as to what’s causing the inconsistent exit speed, but I haven’t tried the solution yet. Hope this helps.

#12694 11 months ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Word on the street is that you'll need to complete all 5 wizard modes AND then win the right to play Break the Curse via a game of Liar's Dice.
Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

Hope that’s not true. Seems like that would be an unnecessarily big hurdle.

#12696 11 months ago

Anyone ever measured the pitch of the playfield both near the flippers and up by the chest? Last weekend I was playing with the PinGuy app on my iPhone and it was showing 6.5 by the flippers but over 7 (I think 7.2 or 7.3) up by the chest. So I did the same check on my Jurassic Park and the readings by the flippers and farther up the playfield were much more consistent with each other on that game. I thought it was odd to have such a different reading in two spots on #JJPOTC. I recalibrated the app and measured both games again and got the same results though.

#12699 11 months ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Yep ...just did it on my POTC....6.6 at the flippers, 6.9 just above the disc, 7.1 at the chest.....

Interesting. Thanks for checking. For the record, I’m not trying to say there might be a defect or anything wrong with it. I just didn’t expect that result and I’m just curious if it’s typical.

#12702 11 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Can someone point me to the posts that talk about the too-tight cable ties? I am still having the issue where my Pearl does not light up due to the RJ-45 jack not making a good connection.

I recall seeing posts about the ties to the Pearl with regard to the switch wires breaking under the Pearl, but I don’t recall anything related to that connector. I’m thinking that’s the Ethernet cable, is that right? I found this but I don’t think it relates to the Pearl.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/68#post-4822671

Which end of the connection is loose?

#12713 11 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I'm a believer in keeping them on hand now after they gave so much new life to Wonka and POTC. I looked up the sizes in the POTC manual and bought 25 of each so I have plenty around and can swap whenever things feel a tad weak after 3-4k plays.
In a pinch you can remove them, clean with alcohol and reinsert. However they are so cheap and so nasty when you remove them it's better to just replace.

About how long does it take to replace the sleeves on the three main playfield flippers, and could you list the high level/overview of the steps involved? I haven't touched any flipper mechanics yet, but I did clean a bunch of gunk off the levers last weekend and I've got a ton of plays on it so mine could probably benefit from it too. Thanks.

#12717 11 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

A few minutes each one. Remove the two 5/32nds allen head screws holding the coil stop on. Remove the coil stop. Slide coil off of plunger. Slide old coil sleeve out. Slide new coil sleeve into the coil. Slide coil onto the plunger. Replace the coil stop. Replace the two allen head screws. Done. It's Miller time.
Do one at a time. In case you get really crazy creative and invent a few steps of your own. You can look to the others for guidance of where things go.
LTG : )

Thank you!!!

#12721 11 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

About 2-3 minutes per coil.
- Remove the 2 hex screws on the coil stop and remove the coil stop.
- Pull out the sleeve and throw it away.
- Be repulsed at all the black powder on your hands and go wash them
- Insert the new sleeve
- Screw the coil stop back in, take care to ensure the stop is snug against the coil (no play/slop)

Thanks!

#12722 11 months ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

All that gunk is the coil stop turning to black powder. Even if it’s not mushroomed, after thousands of plays it’s likely worn changing the length the flipper travels and shot geometry. Not a big deal, but if you’re placing an order for sleeves, it’s a good idea to have some new stops on hand. They are pretty cheap, and you can compare the stop length against a new one to see if it’s time to replace.

Sounds good. I'll put that on the list. Might as well get them since they'll be needed at some point anyway.

#12730 11 months ago
Quoted from arzoo:

Hey all, I've posted in the past (and others have confirmed) that the inner orbit shot from upper flipper often does not make it around and instead ends up in the VUK to the upper playfield. I've never been able to make more than four consecutive loops, and even that's very difficult. So yesterday I removed the BP and dis some testing. Turns out the issue is that the ball does not transition smoothly from the inner orbit rails to the outer orbit rails. Instead it bounces between the top and bottom rails at the top of the orbit. To make matters worse, the top rail has no mounting points where the ball impacts so it flexes (causing the bounce) and the bottom rail is not even curved.
Here are a couple videos demonstrating the issue. The second is slow-motion.

I'm not sure why some POTCs have this issue and others don't, maybe the incline? One thing I noticed is that when the flex is removed from the top rail (pressure from behind) the ball still bounces but not nearly as much and orbits around faster. So for me the solution might be to add some sort of bracket behind the top rail at the point of impact. Any other suggestions or thoughts?

Could the problem instead be the shape of the inner orbit guide? I don’t know, but my first impression looking at the videos is the ball seems to hit the outer orbit guide in a way that it would have a tough time continuing on regardless of the shape of the outer guide. Could the shape of the inner orbit guide be a problem in that it needs to feed the ball into the lane at a better angle? Again, I don’t know but that was my impression from the video.

#12747 11 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

A few minutes each one. Remove the two 5/32nds allen head screws holding the coil stop on. Remove the coil stop. Slide coil off of plunger. Slide old coil sleeve out. Slide new coil sleeve into the coil. Slide coil onto the plunger. Replace the coil stop. Replace the two allen head screws. Done. It's Miller time.
Do one at a time. In case you get really crazy creative and invent a few steps of your own. You can look to the others for guidance of where things go.
LTG : )

Do the Black Pearl flippers use the same coil sleeves as the main flippers? I'm guessing they could use changing also?

#12750 11 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes.
LTG : )

Thanks again!

1 week later
#12859 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

I've now got access to 2 SEs and 3 CEs my side of the pond so the cool mods are applicable to both the SE and the CEs? Has any of the missing stuff been produced by the modders to add to SE games? (or possibly even for sale through JJP). I missed any discussions on this, so please forgive me if I'm asking questions that have already been discussed... reading back through 257 pages is a daunting task...

Use keyword search for the thread and you’ll find the information you’re interested in without having to read every page.

#12899 10 months ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

is there a chart or something that lists all the symbols and their associated meanings?

I don’t think there’s anything that lists them.

#12902 10 months ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

Question....there's a part in the game when it says to shoot the moving/roving arrow....what is the color of the arrow as I can't figure it out, as there seems to be other arrows flashing

The only one that pops to mind is the roving arrow for jackpot on Dead Men Tell No Tales (movie 5) multiball. I think the arrow is purple. It can be difficult to identify it flashing if there’s a bunch of stuff going on at the same time (like other MB jackpots using the same arrow at the same time). After you hit it then the Depths lights for a super jackpot.

#12939 10 months ago
Quoted from Munsters:

Lately the ball hangs in Jack chapter start and nothing happens until the anti jammer ball control kicks in. What can i do?[quoted image]

This does the trick to solve that issue:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/227#post-5094603

This is the sleeve I put on mine. You have to take the Black Pearl off to get at it but it's a great idea to do it to prevent balls sticking between the sling post and the star map entry post and to prevent wear on the sling rubber. (note you don't have to dremel the post to make it work).

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-5151

#12944 10 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Are these glue-able? I’m hesitant to take off my ship as it’s running SO well right now. Don’t want to tweak anything. Wondering if I can split one and superglue it back together after slipping it on. I know, lazy...

I don’t know if that would work or not. That spot takes direct hits all the time. I’d think it would give out kind of quickly from taking a pounding, but I don’t know. You could just buy the post and a replacement rubber for the sling and then just put them on the next time you need to take the ship off for something else.

I definitely understand your hesitation. I used to feel the exact same way about taking the ship off. But now I’ve done it 3 or 4 times in the past couple months for various things and it isn’t that bad anymore. The tricky part is still getting the eyelets lined up when putting it back on, but even that goes a little smoother with practice.

#12946 10 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Yeah. It would be my first time. And it’s all running so well right now I just don’t want to poke the bear!!
I like your idea of having it on hand. Did you say a new post is necessary? I missed that. I thought it was just the rubber sleeve?

No need for a new post. Just the sleeve. Nothing needs to be done to the old post except put the sleeve over it.

#12955 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

I just set up the CE I recently had shipped, what a stunning game in all respects! When I started my 1st game I could hear a whirring sound that I assumed was the motor trying to make the upper deck sway, but it wasn't swaying... it was leaning a lot to the left... started playing anyway thinking that it might start to sway when I got a ball up there, but it didn't... it actually got stuck under the left flipper... turned the game off and lifted the playfield expecting to find a disconnected linkage, but it was all OK... moved the motor by hand and saw the deck tilting... put playfield back down and now it works... but I noticed that when the ball drains I hear the whirring sound still, but the deck stops swaying again... next ball out and it's swaying again... any tips on what the heck's going on there?
2nd thing... played next game and had no idea what I was doing... at one point the playfield insert lights went out and the flippers stopped working, the ball drained and then the inserts came back on and it tried to kick 3 balls into the plunger lane... the 3rd one couldn't get there because the 2nd one was blocking the ball exit, so I nudged the balls forwards and the 3rd came out, and then it stopped ejecting balls, and the game sat with 3 balls in the plunger lane... I plunged them all into play and the game played like everything was OK, in multiball... seemed to get multiple multiballs after that, at world's end being one of them... is this normal? It says the version is 00.99--CE...
Thanks for help guys!!

Not sure about #1, but #2 sounds like what happens when a switch is broken or needs adjustment. The game thinks 1) there are too many balls in the trough or 2) that there isn’t a ball in the shooting lane when there should be. Have you checked switches in the trough (opto sensors) and shooting lane (rollover switch)? Those might be good places to start in trying to find what’s causing it.

#12990 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

I feel I'm getting closer to fixing the 3 balls in the shooter lane problem... below is the opto emitter board and the 2 culprit trough locations #2 and #3 are LED 3 & 4... these are both fed from the small black sweetly R2... so my guess is that R2 is bad... the question is, what is R2 and where can I get a replacement? Or maybe it's best to just buy a new emitter board...?[quoted image]

I’ve had a few trough optos go out on my STTNG. Re-soldering a loose connection on the back side of the board (opposite side of the side showing in your picture) fixed it each time. Someone did the soldering for me. You can try re-soldering the connections or, yes a new board should work if the problem is being caused by LED 3 & 4 being out. But you should confirm those LEDs are not working first so that you know you’ve found the problem.

A good way to check the LEDs is to view them through a cell phone camera. If you plug in the trough board and turn the game on (with the trough board not screwed in but instead hanging loose so you can view the LEDs through the camera), then you can view them through the phone camera screen to confirm which LEDs are on (working) and which are off (not working). Look at each LED closely one at a time to see which ones are on and which ones are off.

Also, to make sure the problem is with the LED emitter and to confirm there is not a problem with the opto receiver on the receiving board, you can hold a working LED on the emitter board up to each ball slot to trigger the switch in the switch test screen. That way you’re testing both the emitters and receivers to verify where any problem is.

#12991 10 months ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Just re-soldered the joints on optos 3 and 4 and now I always get switches showing balls in those locations... I've killed it! Someone warned me that the JJP trough opto emitters are very fragile... he didn't use that word exactly... the opto positions look very similar to the Bally/Williams opto positions... anyone know if a B/W opto emitter board is compatible with this game? If they are, it could be a more robust solution... Thanks for any tips...

Well done!!!

#13008 10 months ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

So I don't see anything marked "Super X" near the chest on the playfield. This is very frustrating, as I hear "Super X is lit" all the time, yet cannot find it. : (

Search “super x target” in this forum/topic/thread only (don’t enter it in the search area that searches all of the Pinside forums at once) and there are some old posts from people doing a good job explaining it. Here’s a link to one of the search results:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/8#post-4637063