(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!

By goren1818

1 year ago

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  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by kidchrisso
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Topic index (key posts)

20 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #222 Liar's Dice rules explained! Posted by goren1818 (10 months ago)

Post #644 Rules flow chart Posted by Rbviessman (9 months ago)

Post #1021 How to fix black pearl lamps Posted by Yelobird (9 months ago)

Post #1360 Black Pearl flippers are uneven when in upper position - Fix Posted by evh347 (8 months ago)

Post #2468 Hardware fix for balls getting hung up during multiball. Posted by Pinballpal (7 months ago)

Post #2892 Adjustment for auto plunger not hitting balls cleanly or correctly Posted by Pinballpal (7 months ago)

Post #3974 Deadflip stream from Valentine’s Day 2019. Posted by Tuna_Delight (6 months ago)

Post #4014 POTC trouble shooting guide Posted by zaphX (6 months ago)

Post #4856 Possibly let distributor go through machine and get it tuned in. Posted by dgposter (5 months ago)

Post #6315 Fix for dauntless positioning, canon shots not landing Posted by Yelobird (4 months ago)

Post #6631 Twitch Video - How to Remove and Reinstall Black Pearl Upper Playfield Posted by KevInBuffalo (4 months ago)

Post #6655 Mylar bubble at jjPotC Map hole. Posted by thc666 (4 months ago)

Post #6834 Titan ring sizes Posted by AUKraut (4 months ago)

Post #8145 Positives and Negatives for each character Posted by EaglePin (3 months ago)

Post #8288 Rubber Sizing and Location on Playfield Posted by f3honda4me (3 months ago)

Post #8602 How to see pictures the game has taken Posted by f3honda4me (3 months ago)

Post #8625 Version .99 release notes as of 5/6/2019 Posted by pinball_keefer (3 months ago)

Post #8709 How to backup settings before installing an update Posted by LTG (3 months ago)

Post #9273 Version .99 Character Plus and Minus Benefits Posted by pinball_keefer (3 months ago)

Post #11892 Clear concise video on removing the black pearl Posted by rlslick (21 hours ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#57 1 year ago

I have a deposit on an LE. The pin does look killer!

Not sure if I should post this here as well but what is everyone's thoughts on the spinning discs? If you watch the videos you can see that they rock as the ball(s) go over them. I have great concern about the possible wear of the playfield edge on the large hole that the discs sit in. What are your thoughts and how can we direct this question to Jack and Team? A thin stainless steel or carbon fiber cliffy may be in order, assuming that there is enough room.

I have an early WOZECLE and had to work with their Team to get through the RGB LED issues. They were very supportive and quite giving to get this resolved for me, I am very grateful but would prefer to not have to go through something similar. Potential wear on a PF is not something that can be easily fixed.

8 months later
#91 11 months ago

Thanks for sharing these pics and I am happy to see them here in the club thread, good call.

I too want to hear more once you get a hundred games or so in.

It might be 3-4 weeks before JJP ships mine.
As long as it is before snow falls.

#92 11 months ago

Oh, and if you can share your thoughts on additional protection that we should consider. Maybe you or someone else can soon work with Cliff to ready what we 'need'.

#95 11 months ago
Quoted from solarvalue:

Do you know why the compass on the apron isn't round instead of the rectangular shape of a small LCD screen?

Why would he know this?

There is already a discussion on this.

The majority of screens are not round, JJP was not likely up to getting a custom screen made.

#97 11 months ago

No need to apologize, I did think that you were serious and thought 'please not in the club thread!'. I'll lighten up.

I do hope that others don't come in asking those types of questions

#111 11 months ago

They're running standards?

#122 11 months ago
Quoted from Zavadoza:

My weekend just started early.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I love that we are finally starting to see these hit homes. Great line up, definitely a JJP fan!

1 week later
#170 11 months ago

Yes, day 1 order here (Insert picture of broken/scratched record for me as well ) and no real ETA. I was told 3-4 weeks a few weeks ago, we'll see

#198 10 months ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

That’s all I’ve paid so far.... balance due when the game hits the line.

I believe that the $250 is for the Standard edition but I don't recall. I think that my deposit was $1000.

#215 10 months ago
Quoted from solarvalue:

There's a P3 game you might be interested in (not being sarcastic, I love the P3):

There is nothing that I would like about that.

1 week later
#265 10 months ago
Quoted from Zavadoza:

I've had my game at home for almost a month now...


#270 10 months ago
Quoted from Vdrums:

I also noticed the game as they have it set has no ball save (which it a bit annoying as I got several SDTM direct from launch.

I'd love to be playing one!

I believe that 'no ball save' is the factory default. I agree that it should be enabled if there are just too many SDTMD though, when you are paying.

#279 10 months ago


You can buy a DI now, wait for POTC, or wait wait wait wait wait for WW. That would not make sense, buy now and enjoy!

Life is far too short.

#296 10 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Here's what I can think of in terms of items that interact with the ball and features the player interacts with. Both games have a lot of cool toys and features...

DI - also has Bluetooth phone support for remote flipping. Like it or not, it is a feature

#312 10 months ago
Quoted from Audioenslaved:

From watching Eric and the boys and the Buffalo guys play this I’m super interested but at $15,000 AUD I’m super not interested... Hopefully I know someone who is getting one so I can play it!

I hear you, AUD and CDN price on this beast are very close.

My first and only NIB was TSPP back in 2004, that was $4999 CDN + tax. JJPOTC LE is essentially 3x that. Had to dig deep as I wanted the title, day one. I can't see getting any more NIB going forward, likely used market only unless there is something worth selling off pins for and taking the depreciation on a NIB.

#319 10 months ago

I am also looking for any advice as to what needs mylar and possibly 1 or more cliffies.

Thoughts from owners at this point?

#323 10 months ago
Quoted from jcoble:

#99 is in the house!
[quoted image]

Are you sure that you want to block that beautiful window?


#345 10 months ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Holy shit! (even if it is AUD)

Now, compare JJP-POTC with BBB at that price, which is a better buy?

1 week later
#404 9 months ago

It's great to see these pins finally hitting homes!

Congratulations to everyone who is in on one of these.

#438 9 months ago

Well I completely melted an LED I replaced in a spotlight — they are 12v wedge lamps, as I now see in the manual. Good to know!

Ouch! Thanks for sharing.

#442 9 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Just walked in the door from our 10 day trip at Disney and look what was waiting in garage for me!
Woohoo! shiver me timbers!
[quoted image]

Congrats for sure! Excited to hear your thoughts.

#575 9 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Funny, it’s listening.. should be able to hit the flippers to see them, my kids get a kick out of them. Especially when I throw the Jack Sparrow hat on full with dreads and beads for a pick!

Maybe they can add a short button macro to jump to it, in attract mode. IE: L+L+R jumps straight to the first page of scores. That would be neat.

#582 9 months ago
Quoted from Ramjet:

More leg problems and the spinning disc not centered on another game.
I certainly hope that JJP is made aware of these problems and are working on correcting them?

I'd say yes, that's a given. The Team is here and are responding. Bleeding edge, this happens with each release.

#595 9 months ago
Quoted from Rbviessman:

Front legs on. Waiting for friends to lift to put back legs on.
In the meantime, I have a bag of what looks like extra plastics and play field protectors. Is that correct? Will I need to install the protectors or are they extra?

You always get a few extras, especially the sling shot plastics as they will break without protectors installed. (I'm just recalling from my WOZ goodie bag.

#690 9 months ago
Quoted from JWJr:

It is starting to seem like they rushed them out the door a bit, yes? Understandable, given the delays, but maybe just a bit too much "rush".

(This is more of a general post, not directed at just you)

It seems like they can't win. Having decided to bring us along for the full ride of this title, since reveal (last October), they have had their ups and downs. Constant pressure to show more, add more, fix the tri-disc and chest, all along fielding the barrage of 'when are you shipping already!?', oh you're FINALLY shipping but there are issues? Well I'll just hold on to my 'check' then until you can ship perfection. GAWD, No wonder Jack is tight lipped about the next title!

These are hand built, hand adjusted and then palleted and shipped across the country/world. Many/most/all(?) of the QC issues will be resolved but these are early days. The WOZ LED issue was a serious problem, these are largely small issues that require adjustment and yes there is a shot ton of tech/mech under that glass.

For those who don't want to tweak, I think you should steer clear of pinball ownership or make sure that you have access to a local tech. We keep asking JJP to up the 'world under glass' experience. Here we are and I expect that there are great times ahead. Rest easy knowing that there is a great and very active community behind this hobby.

Imagine if this was at any other time in the past, prior to the InterWeb? Good luck figuring this stuff out! Operators and techs only... That would result in much simpler home entertainment. It's actually the reason why I had console gaming for my kids, no PC gaming. Too much to keep up with and wasn't worth hearing them complain when there were issues or to worry about the costs to upgrade endlessly.

"Hey, it´s only pinball!"

#764 9 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

Do you have the Collector's version? I noticed you mentioned a topper. If so, that makes me sad that so many issues could occur on a table that expensive, yet alone the cheaper models, which aren't exactly cheap....

No CE have shipped as far as I know. Someone quoted Jen as saying that they are halting SE/LE production to run the CE next.

The LE has a topper which many have had issues with, setting up (IE: screws, length of wiring etc...). This might be one of the first (possibly second) that has posted as the LED strip not working.

#942 9 months ago

The email that I too have been longing for:

"Your Pirates of the Caribbean LE has shipped!"

Thanks Nitro

#967 9 months ago

I've read a little about mylar but has anyone confirmed if we should add any cliffies? Is there a desire for anything that might have to be custom from Cliff?

#978 9 months ago

Looks sweet! I think that this printed on the old style paper (scroll, parchment or whatever) would look cool as well.

#981 9 months ago

Sadly, our POTC is confirmed as having arrived here in London, at the local shipping depot which is closed on the weekend. I'm saddened by the thought that he is forced to spend the weekend with a bunch of skids in a cold dark warehouse. It just an't right!

#1048 9 months ago

Picked it up yesterday!

I will share my findings on out of box adjustments and issues in a new post but they are mostly what others have already experienced and shared themselves. Very pleased that I have been following this closely as I immediately had a shortlist of things to look for even before putting the legs on. (See ground braid threading issue

Even with my climber, this is one heavy pin but I can already tell that it's worth it's weight in gold Arr!

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#1091 9 months ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

Other oddball thing is every know and then after a multi ball I go into ball search and there will be a ball that eventually comes out of the subway. No big deal, just not sure what it is getting hung up on down there.

I have this exact issue. The ball search kicks a ball out of the far left scoop.

#1092 9 months ago

Played quite a lot yesterday and it seemed like the flippers either became a bit weak during multiball. Haven't checked EOS but it doesn't appear that the flippers fall back when struck by a ball. The flippers do seem to be angled slightly lower toward the center drain than perfectly in-line with the metal ball guide.

Just looking for feedback as I can't really tell if this is just perceived behaviour, it's odd.

#1124 9 months ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

Pretty sure it is supposed to flicker. Not the greatest of toppers.

Is the expected behaviour to faded in attract and just flicker in game? I think that it also flashes but that flicker is bothersome, I would prefer it to just stay on and if the brightness could be adjusted that would be alright.

For anyone interested: I had to repair the wiring as the wires broke off from being pinched when installing the topper (pinched from under the topper plastic and on top of the bracket screw). The length of the LED strip is too long so I shorten it by one section (there are cut marks to indicate). I've shared some pics of the process and indicate the - and + (please double check with a meter)

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#1129 9 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

The button worked great for the first 100 or so games.
Can’t figure out where it’s binding, took it apart and reassembled looks fine, works initially after reassembly and then sticks.

Mine was binding internally (now resolved) and also binds on the switch arm while in game. (Still an issue)

Pics of how I fixed the button itself. (I do like the drill suggestion but hadn't thought of that [edit: I did bend the two ends of the spring slightly, the small end out, away from the plastic shaft, the large end inward]

The remaining issue is that when installed in the lockdown bar, The shaft (with screw head) pinches on the cherryswitch metal arm. There is too much of an angle between the switch arm and pushbutton shaft, which causes the shaft (when pressed down) to angle to the left, binding on the switch arm. This is easily visible, in game, by looking down on the glass between the mini display and lockbar. You will see the button slide down the switch arm and bind.

The switch is mounted to a small plate with two nuts that can be loosened to adjust the angle of the switch, adjust this hasn't help for me, the switch is still too angled. I need it to be at more of a right angle to the button shaft.

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#1130 9 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

The pride of the British Royal Navy and scourge of piracy in the Caribbean deserves the a Royal dress up! Introducing the HMS Dauntless dress up kit. Complete the look and pride of the HMS Dauntless with this Custom railing kit. Detailed down to the wood grain and air brushed for an authentic color and weathered look.

You have some great mods!

I think that this one however still needs some refining, if you don't mind me saying.

The ship is purposely angled and cut off to fit in the game. The left and rear is expected to be a continuation of the deck. I would not want a railing on the left side for that reason, it cuts across the deck.

The one additional suggestion would be to consider rounding this to follow the shape of the deck.

Of course you can just flip me the bird on these suggestions

#1131 9 months ago

Pin restart/reboot mid game.

I had a complete restart on Wednesday evening while playing. Not sure of the cause at this point but it was the first time this happened (I have about 60 games in)

Just sharing the details: (my time is not correct in the game, didn't see this)

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#1144 9 months ago
Quoted from Outlanes:

Watched some streams. Other people have this too, guess its intentional, at very least it's not just my machine.

Agreed, mine is always flashing as well.

#1146 9 months ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Mine was binding internally (now resolved) and also binds on the switch arm while in game. (Still an issue)
The remaining issue is that when installed in the lockdown bar, The shaft (with screw head) pinches on the cherryswitch metal arm. There is too much of an angle between the switch arm and pushbutton shaft, which causes the shaft (when pressed down) to angle to the left, binding on the switch arm. This is easily visible, in game, by looking down on the glass between the mini display and lockbar. You will see the button slide down the switch arm and bind.
The switch is mounted to a small plate with two nuts that can be loosened to adjust the angle of the switch, adjust this hasn't help for me, the switch is still too angled. I need it to be at more of a right angle to the button shaft.

Update: simply bent the cherry switch arm up a bit and with the sanding down of the button shaft etc...(see previous post) all buttery smooth now!

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#1147 9 months ago

I'm slowly posting some of the challenges that I've had, hope they help those in need.

Out of the box I only had 4 balls of 5. A non issue for me and most but...

On to another small concern, the British ship has a metal plate that directs the ball down into the loop lane below (when you make the cannon shot).

On my pin I found that on occasion the ship would stay to the left a little and I would see switch#48 (target ship it) activated. Upon inspection I noticed that the screw post below the ship plate was a pinch point. Plate rubbing the screw head.

With the PF pulled out (forward) as far as it goes, onto the rubber feet, I removed the top of the ship (3 1/4" hex screws on back panel. Lift the PF slightly to clear the cab side and slide out the top of the ship. Move the ship towards the left of the cab and remove the screw and post. Sand or grind down the screw head and/or the plastic post and reinstall everything. Good to go!

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#1148 9 months ago
Quoted from GrandFireball1:

Has anyone had trouble making the chest lock shot? ... Is there a physical adjustment to the forks that doesn’t require taking the whole thing apart? ...

Not likely your issue but I've noticed that the fork mech on mine is positioned too far towards the left and one tong is rubbing on the side of the PF. I can't see an easy fix for this, such as the ability to reposition the fork mech. I'm watch the thread to see if others have a similar issue. Until then I left it rub clear maybe.

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#1149 9 months ago

Audio clipping and drop outs.

OK, of the handful of little things to tinker with, I have no real concern so far. The one big annoyance is the clipping and drop outs in the audio. It is starting to drive me crazy! I believe that a few have questioned audio related issues, what is the fix here? I can upload a video if need be but it is painfully obvious and annoying.

#1151 9 months ago

Just listening to the end of game audio now, clippity clip! It's like a 'pop' sound.

#1154 9 months ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Try to unplug the headphone jack connector on the mainboard. My audio is perfect since that

I had exact the same and did it the same way. Other way is shorten the post itself a bit

I'll try the audio connection. For the post, I did both, took down the top of the screw head and grinder down the plastic post a bit as well. The post alone would have helped I supposes

#1155 9 months ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Try to unplug the headphone jack connector on the mainboard. My audio is perfect since that...

That solved the clipping! Thanks for sending that suggestion back into the thread, in response to my issue. Man, it was frequent and very annoying! (Simple fix)

I hear a drop out in the audio on the last game I tried but this is not a pop or clipping etc... I expect that the drop might be a software fix in the waiting. Completely cool with that.

#1157 9 months ago
Quoted from dnaman:

That solved the clipping.

Too fast a reply unfortunately. A couple games later I am hearing the clipping again. I will play and try the audio jack thing (re-seating) and see where it takes me.
UPDATE: it is still way less than before, that's a start!

#1158 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Can you bend it a little ?
LTG : )

I can try that. I'm trying to keep an eye on the successful shots to chest VS misses. See if there is any relation or just crappy shooting

#1160 9 months ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Did you unplug it from the mainboard (bottom Right corner, black 10 pin connector) ?

No actually, just unplugged the 1/8' audio cable and reconnected it. I have since opened up the area to the main board and reset that connector (pin was off). I also re-seated the 1/8" jack as well (again, while I was back there). Still clipping but less than this morning.

#1165 9 months ago

I don't hear the clipping in the call-outs. I am trying to pay attention to that for you.

Just had my 2nd crash and reboot though

I don't see anything in the error logs or system events. Please let me know if anyone is having this issue.


#1166 9 months ago

The dang center drains on the mystery hole and Star Map are a downer. It looks like you can press both buttons just before the post drop (on the Star Map) and the magnet will toss the ball up. No option for the hole. Maybe a ball save option for a couple of these shots that are draining?

#1171 9 months ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

I just did the same. I upped the power at first and even tweaked the bracket but the coil power was inconsistent so it was easier to reduce and now no more

I'll try that tomorrow as well, to lower the power.

#1173 8 months ago

Does anyone have high res video of the display? I would like to take some stills of the gorgeous art, IE: Tilt warnings and Tilt, Multiball screens would be a good start. I realize that I can take the video out from the integrated video outputs but I don't have a capture device at the moment.


#1175 8 months ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

My past streams have direct capture of the display. It's not full screen but you should be able to pull decent screenshots:

Thanks Kevin! It's so cool how the Internet (and in this case Pinside) makes us almost neighbours. When I thought of getting the high res stills this morning, I actually when directly to Twitch and to your past videos. It was only because the display is not full screen that I came back here to ask the group. I will look through the links that you've provided, it is a good start.

#1178 8 months ago
Quoted from FightNightFZ:

I’m having a problem where every time I turn on the pin, more and more switches are having issues. It started with the “chapter select right rubber” (which I’ve tried to fix many times). It’s like a cancer spreading. Anyone else have this problem? Any suggestions?
Also the left Malestrom entrance switch keeps falling out of the hole, it’s seems like it was just pushed in there and not glued or anything. Any fixes for that?
[quoted image]

How many games are you putting in? I'm not sure what the setting is but typically if switches haven't been engaged in X# of games, they will register as 'bad'. Not to suggest that this is entirely what you have but... Slide glass off, go into switch test mode and manually trigger all of these switches. They will either register or you might have an issue with some.

Regarding the Maelstrom optos, these aren't glued in, JJP seem to have a casing which 'clicks' the sensor into a hole. In this case, into the clear ramp plastic but is hardly visible because of the metal protector on the other side. You can see in my pic that the back is flush where it clicks in but the front (sensor end) is angled out, not good. A little glue would help but you must align both sensors. (Use the switch test to assist)

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#1179 8 months ago

Just FYI: My pin is losing it's time constantly, following a reboot. Likely the onboard CR(2032?) Style battery on the mainboard but that is odd that it would be dead already. (Maybe inexpensive batteries?)

Under the 'all event's log option, my events start on May 1 2018, as a 'Dialed In - Version 01.53T. Looks like the system was started up twice quickly and then jumps to July 24 2018 as a Pirates (early software version) and a lot of testing, then to Oct 6 for the 00.96 upgrade. I then received it.

UPDATE: replaced the KTS brand with a Panasonic CR2032 but the KTS tested ok. Need to look into this further

#1180 8 months ago

Well, somehow in replacing the CR2032 battery, with the system completely powered off, the pin won't power up now.

I turn on the pin and hear a hum, with the driver board LEDs all lit up.

Is this something to do with the motherboard being turned off/losing power etc...? I recall something long ago with WOZ owners experiencing something.

Nothing else was touched. Any thoughts?

UPDATE#1: It must be the PC as the PC powersupply isn't starting up. I'll keep looking.

UPDATE#2: Yep, I've gone and fudged the bucket
[Do not let your battery go below 3V (like you would know , and also do not remove the CMOS battery with the power off! (as per the detailed instructions under E-3 in the JJP-POTC manual.)]

Here is the excerpt:

POTC-E3_1 (resized).PNGPOTC-E3_2 (resized).PNG
#1184 8 months ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Wow, thank you for posting your issues. The battery issue seems really unfortunate... I can see this "bricking" games as time goes on. Hopefully an outside of JJP fix is found, or JJP can fix this themselves.

It goes back to WOZ from what I can see but seems to be settings in the CMOS which get reset and prevents the PC from booting. I'll be fine but sucks that I won't likely get this running until tomorrow evening (after work, if I can get help tomorrow during the day)

#1187 8 months ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

The main issue will be power on after power loss will be disabled. You have to jump a couple pins on the front panel header to get it to start again (equivalent of hitting the power button on a pic). The pins are pretty forgiving; TBH I just take the plug end of some cheap headphones and jam it on the rightmost square of 4 pins as I don't remember exactly which pins are the power button. After it boots you can plug in a keyboard and set the power restore after power loss to always on again.

Keith, that was it! I couldn't recall the fix and I was even looking at the motherboard header earlier wondering how JJP turns the board on if the headers aren't used. Now I know, by having the BIOS setting set as such.

So, with the power turned on, (driver PCB lit up, but no activity on the PC Powersupply or CPU fan, of course), I shorten pins 3 & 4 on the header (the header is on the top right on the board as installed on my pin, and the pins are on the left side of that header, reset would be on the right side: see the legend). I've included a pic for everyone and you can see the pin config on the white screened legend to the right of the header)

I used the USB connector inside the coin door area, to plug in the USB keyboard. After shorting the pins, the pin powered up, I saw a splash screen, it restarted, saw the splash screen again but then just powered up properly. I could not see which key was to be used to access the config. I shutdown the PC twice and it comes up ok. I'll leave it like this for now and check with support as to what the key is.

Thanks again!

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#1189 8 months ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

Most motherboards respond to one of the following
i usually push these in order until the bios come up

True, true! I was trying to take some pics as it was coming up, both times but missed them completely. Next time! I hope that all of this along with the pics are helpful to someone down the road. Taking it for the Team

#1190 8 months ago
Quoted from FightNightFZ:

dnaman - it’s some shoddy work on that malestrom switch. I can’t even get a “click” to happen. So I’ll have to glue the switch in.
I went and touched every switch and I think the theory on not being switched for quite a few games is right on all the ship switches could be right. I think the rubber on the mode switch might be tight which is causing that to be “stuck”. Here’s to hoping that’s the problem and this isn’t a larger issue.

Yeah, the 'clip' is essentially just a split plastic post with a bit of extra plastic on the end which is supposed to hold the opto in place. I personally prefer the old two screw method but certainly but a drop of hot glue on there. You can see how mine is angled outward and it shouldn't be.

Good to hear about the other switches triggering. Someone will ring in with what the game count is but let's say it is 25 or 50, doesn't take long to show as 'bad' or maybe we should call it 'switches to be checked, cause you (me) stink!"

#1193 8 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Designed to complete the look for JJP Standard buyers with the additional stationary pops. Very fine detail and a big improvement over the plastic.
ALL barrel pops available NOW to ship next day from our website store. Ye be warned, you will love this mod! lol Fits ALL models.

Great job!

Curious, how long does it take for you to 3D print these (just print, not paint) and do you have multiple printers? When I think 3D printing, I think of the early tech, slow and not that accurate, Clearly you are not using those

#1199 8 months ago

First time I've experienced both displays going out while the pin was on and staying out (displayed were powered but lost video/display signal). I was in-game at the time. Restarted and video came up immediately (FYI for any similar occurrences)

IMG_20181126_1648569 (resized).jpg
#1210 8 months ago
Quoted from AdamTheHutt:

I got my game today, the mini LCD on the apron was upside down out of the box. we fixed
that easily.
Question for any owners when the game takes your picture is there a way to see it later on? When I view the high scores from the day or previous days it just shows our names how do I see the picture again? Or is it only at the time of entering your initials?

Hey Adam!

I wanted to mention my thought here about the display rotation to see if others know; JJP looks to be rotating the video after startup as mine says VGA upside down on boot, then displays the video right side up.

Regarding the Wanted posters, I only see those in attract mode (but not right out of an 'end of game'. Although, once they are displaying you can scroll forward and reverse with the flipper buttons. I would be cool if you can can get to this right after your game. Friends would get a kick out of it.

#1236 8 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Took a few hours but your recommendation is done. Option 4 is now available with Through cut letters/sign with gel lense defuser applied. Lights nicely granted hard to photograph with the lights off. lol Available now from our store at no additional cost. Thanks again for the feedback and Thanks to all for your interest and support!!
The Mod Couple
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

TMC, is it possible to get this extruded and clear or white as opposed to cut out? That is what I envisioned by the suggestion, just like you rum bottle (white or clear)

#1246 8 months ago
Quoted from LesManley:

I don't think he meant clear barrels, I think he meant the letters to be clear or milky plastic as an insert in the barrel instead of the letters just being cut out of the barrel itself.

Yes, clear letters (and/or embossed/raised, like I mentioned). I wasn't thinking 'authentic' or a fully clear barrel, if this is what you thought Yelobird. I was just thinking of seeing the logo lit up and instead of a Silver raised logo, a clear or milky white raised logo that would glow beautifully. (I don't know if you use a clear or translucent material so this is why I am asking)

When I saw the cut out logo, it doesn't seem like you can make it out while playing and in that instance, I'm not sure that would be authentic either. Regardless, it seemed like a logic suggestion.

More importantly, can the top right pop bumper plastic area fit the heart topped barrel for instance?

#1324 8 months ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Just got back from Flip Out Melbourne Mr jersey Jack himself was there and it was a great day. Finally got to play the production version of pirates, in the pictures the apron looked too bright and out of place I'm not sure if it was just the pictures or they toned it down but in real life it looks really good .

I'm glad you've mentioned this. I thought the same but haven't taken the time to say it; the apron art and colouring is beautiful! I recall when it was revealed and wasn't a fan as it look odd in the video and I didn't like the split decal. Completely loved it when my pin arrived.

#1333 8 months ago
Quoted from Procrastinator:

I’ve been lucky, and haven’t had any issues with my pin except for a “pearl left flipper EOS error” like the earlier poster. I haven’t had to make one repair, just some small adjustments here and there, but the EOS switch error is throwing me for a loop. I looked it over and everything seems fine, even pulling the pearl to make sure I didn’t have a wire break off. Not sure where to go from here, but at least it doesn’t stop play.

Can you take a picture of the coil and EOS area on the left?

I was at a friend's last night I helping to resolver one of the grounds from a switch and he has the same EOS error, it was in fact the top wire (Black/Orange) that was off. Resoldered and up she went.

That said, he sure did have a number of things that needed doin'. From the BP' broken wires (zip ties pulling wires too tight), to loose screws in the BP VUK and Mystery hole reflector, to slightly moving and securing the wires/harness between the GOLD targets, to a 'new to me' issue; ball trough ball stalls/hangups.

He is checking this today to see if it might be magnetism

#1367 8 months ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Problem found... Broken wire / solder connection, as others have posted.[quoted image]

Cut the closest tie as well. There is a lot of wiring for this PF. I love what it is and has, just need to provide some slack for those wires.

#1409 8 months ago
Quoted from Mikey1983:

Hello everyone i have a problem with the spinner on the black pearl.
Opto (Switch) 69 do not records.
Wath can be the problem?

Possibly a broken wire or maybe one of the optos have dislodged and isn't pointing at the other. Can you take pictures?

#1430 8 months ago
Quoted from anathematize:

The bonus multiplier is sneaky good on this game. I think I saw a 300,000+ bonus on a ball today.

On the downside... the cannon shot into the Dauntless is pretty much not working. I think I've made the shot into the ship 1 or 2 times in all of my games and everybody else I've talked to is convinced its just broken. Guessing its an alignment issue. But it definitely makes the Black Pearl part of the game much more tricky.

Wow, it sounds like you're killing it! I'd be interested in hearing more about the bonus(es), I too am experimenting with them but nothing like this.

Regarding the cannon and Dauntless, do you mean the left/right alignment of the cannon to hole in the ship? That should be easy enough to test and see with the glass off and manually testing it. You can also test the two switches in the Dauntless easily enough.

From what I read in the rules, a direct hit will sink the Dauntless but so will two indirect hits (missing the hole but hitting the ship and activating the switch by moving the ship). So if that is the case you should be ok.

#1465 8 months ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Does anyone sell shooter lane and scoop protectors for this game or are they even necessary? After 25 or so plays, I'm already seeing dimples all over the playfield, but that's expected. Also, that mystery/tortuga scoop above the upper right flipper is ejecting the ball SDTM at least 50% of the time. I assume it's just a matter of loosening and adjusting the metal scoop?

I've installed the small 1" square mylar stickers directly below the habitrail drops on the middle lanes (cutting out the top of the switch slot right in place, a sharp blade cuts it very easily). My right drop started to chip the edge of the slot, the mylar has stopped this for now. I am now just waiting on a pair of the universal switch slot protectors from Cliffy.

Cliff is waiting on having access to a POTC so that he can see if there are any custom pieces necessary. JJP has done a good job so far with mylar and the mantis style in-hole protectors, I am very pleased so far.

#1471 8 months ago

darkryder Great score!

I haven't hit a wizard mode yet but have been very close. The rules in the manual are a great read, details in there that I don't think many would just learn by playing.

I have some mods on the way as well, a few local owners ordering in quantity to save a bit on shipping.

On an unrelated topic; The manual claims that switches will show as bad/failed if not activated in 60 games. I would have guessed this to be much shorter as the 2 in my Dauntless show on startup now but they register in test and have worked within the game.

#1521 8 months ago
Quoted from pickleric:

Emailed Cliff last night. He is waiting to get his hands on a game or playfield.

I have been asking for months about mylar and cliffies. Radio silence.

I too have been in touch twice with Cliff, he is waiting for someone to get one close by but, truth be told he has also been trying to communicate with our Grand Wizard on POTC... Radio silence. No idea why that would be the case but very disappointing to hear.

What is this 'felt' that is being mentioned, do you apply it on the underside of the metal deflector, which is above the hole?

#1540 8 months ago

Does anyone know what the odd shaped mylar in the goodie bag is for? I don't have a pic at the moment.

#1560 8 months ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

amazon.com link »
Right now $2.28. That is all the shooter rod is as well, you can see the loop on the top of the coin on the rod. Since you are painting the depressed areas, you can actually use just about any paint as long as you seal it. I just used craft paint. Wiped off the top to get the gold to show. Let that dry and then seal it with an acrylic spray with several coats.


A friend and I just ordered one each of the Aztec gold shooter rod at $125 CDN/each. Are we referring to the same unit that looks like it's a very shiny gold? I won't be impressed if it is a cheap (quality-wise) $3 toy, that doesn't look like the pictures in the for sale ads here.

#1561 8 months ago
Quoted from PBMAN:

Question. Anyone else’s game have a block of styrofoam taped behind the play field backboard. Mine fell off but it was attached with double sided tape. I assume it stays on for dampening effect.

Shows all Styrofoam locations in the manual, remove them.

#1568 8 months ago
Quoted from Charliew65:

Just a heads up im testing out some plastic protectors for mezel mods, loving the way they look. Just have to work out the kinks and should be available soon.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Beautiful! The orange ones look wider than the yellow ones. Let us know if it affects ball movement. Also, are these PETG? (Not acrylic)

#1588 8 months ago

I think that this is a logical place for the unknown mylar in the goodie bag.

In this pics, I've used a flashlight to show it applied but essentially it is transparent of course.

IMG_20181208_2306449 (resized).jpgIMG_20181208_2318128 (resized).jpgIMG_20181208_2318417 (resized).jpg
#1594 8 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Was there one already applied and they gave us an extra?

No existing in this spot. Happy that it was in the bag though.

I was also pleased that there is mylar on the right orbit where the ball falls off of the Black Pearl, as well as a metal protector on the wood rail

There is a good deal of mylar right across this pin so that is always helpful, in a couple of spots maybe they couple be closer to the edge.

Surprisingly there is nothing for where the chest balls drop out of the chest on the left orbit. The balls actually land on the plastic post and a small area of the PF orbit. No pics to share at the moment but I will add on the the small squares and cut out around the post.

IMG_20181208_2312113 (resized).jpgIMG_20181208_2311434 (resized).jpgIMG_20181208_2311296 (resized).jpg
#1620 8 months ago

RE: custom mylar

Does anyone know where we can find a 1 : 1 image of the playfield? It would be awesome to have one of the whole playfield at a respectable resolution but if someone has even a 1 : 1 cropped image(s) of the left orbit where the chest ball drop is, extending up and around (this would help for misses from the cannon towards the Dauntless) and maybe the Starmap area to start that would be awesome!

I'd like to create an outline of those two areas, print them out and cut these out of mylar to drop them in.

Asking too much?

Here are images of the orbit now. You can see where the rectangle mylar is, leading into the orbit but it stops before the post and there is nothing beyond that. I have taken two pics of the chest lock bracket, first closed then open. The Dauntless is also at rest, you can see that when a ball hits it, it will push the ship back but then fall down onto the plastic or orbit.

IMG_20181210_0404402 (resized).jpgIMG_20181210_0406507 (resized).jpgIMG_20181210_0408364 (resized).jpgIMG_20181210_0409539 (resized).jpgIMG_20181210_0410013 (resized).jpgIMG_20181210_0412452 (resized).jpg

#1622 8 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

You really think Mylar will protect that post from a ball falling from 4-5 inches from above?
Might be easier to just swap the post when need be.

No, not concerned with the post, just the area around it and up the orbit

#1630 8 months ago
Quoted from misfitdart:

So I've an LE on its way....yay hooooooo!! My question is what are some of the things that need to be looked at before firing up? Too tight/broken wires etc etc...

Welcome and congrats!

There is quite a lot available in the last month or so, of this thread that you can read through. There are also a couple of posts which summarize a short list of the things to look out for and suggestions to make to mitigate known issues. I have added a few of my own and included images where possible. Have a look a the gallery over the same period and you will see some interesting and helpful tips.

I'd say right away, move the Black Pearl to the right (via the menu) and get in there with some small cutters to cut out a few of the small zip ties. Be careful not to cut any wires! The harness (wiring) is way too tight in the there and you will likely (almost guaranteed) have broken wires in no time. Check out the discussions regarding mylar and protectors, if you are interested in keep the game minty fresh.

#1631 8 months ago
Quoted from Nemotheeskie:

Thanks a million. I am new to the hobby so the little fixes are a bit intimidating at first.

Welcome and congrats on your acquisition as well This is going to be quite the pin to cut your teeth on. The beauty here is that there is a wealth of support within the club so you should be fine.

#1697 8 months ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

Look what just showed up from the Mod Couple. Made some alterations and took off the left side railing. We will see how it holds up.
[quoted image]

That's how I see it, just crickets when I mentioned it though Now if it were only curved to follow the ship's deck shape.

Waiting for our coins etc... those look cool!

#1698 8 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

You’ve gotta be f’ing kidding me, I think I’ve heard it all now!

I think that now would be the time for someone to approach Depp. This would be his time to solidify his presence in the franchise, as he is on the way out.

#1699 8 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

White lithium grease. Extreme temps and dirt are the only things that gum it up.

What about the clear(er), 'synthetic grease? What's the difference between the white lithium and the cler synthetic?

#1712 8 months ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

I put a post there[quoted image]

This was it, I followed suit and did the same. Not as pretty as this though. Oops, meant to link heni1977

#1803 8 months ago
Quoted from Rbviessman:

If I install version .97, does that reset high scores? My daughter and I have a competition and don’t want to lose the current scores.

Yes, upgrades will wipe scores. Connect a USB thumb drive and use the backup utility in the setup (utility) menu. It will also save your game settings etc...

#1804 8 months ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Wow thanks Mod couple, we really appreciate your mod's and pirate problem solving, like the ship lights and such. and your reasonable prices .
so on that note let me share a shooter rod mod on the cheap. here's how I made mine below you can too for under 15$ or if you don't have the time I can whip up some for 35$ shipped not 98$ + shipping. like some others.. I'm not in the mod business just want to help out on this easy to make cheap mod. pinball is expensive enough. Pm me if your interested.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for sharing. I saw the other post with the price of the coin from amazon but it was too late, a friend and I had already dropped $124.68/ea CDN for the other ones!

#1806 8 months ago
Quoted from Rbviessman:

Does that also save high scores?

Yes indeed as well as games played etc...

#1816 8 months ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

I broke 3.4 Million today, two chapter wizard modes but mine is setup for 5 balls for the family so for those of you who only do 3 balls, take this with a grain of salt...

That is a nice score for sure but there is far more to that than just '3 ball vs 5 ball'. This is not to bust your balls, just to share thoughts.

I find the posting of scores pointless as there are way too many variables to consider. This is completely an 'apples to orange' type of thing. There are so many variables and combinations within the settings that scores are irrelevant between pins.That's why I find the QR Code, neat in theory but not useful. I've seen some say; here is my score with 'factory settings' but what does that really mean and how would most people know what settings are set? Even out of the box settings can be different between pins. The 3 local POTC LE pins, mine and our friend's each had different settings.

What settings have been changed beyond that? From ball save time (main ball and each MB), individual difficulty levels for each and every option, to the physical adjustments for the outlines and possibly the pitch of the pf? Although the last two can't be shown in software, the rest can. It is those type of details that would help create relevancy in a posted score and % of completion. (IE: 5-ball, Extra Easy, 15 second ball save(s) and closed outlines, no 'other' changes... '10million and finished the entire game!'.

It would be cool if there was a way to create a balanced comparison of some sort. IE: if installing the 'install 3-Ball' would generate a code/value (like a checksum value) that would be the same on all software and that would be displayed along the the score somehow. Any changes to the settings within would alter the code so it would be easily determined that it was not a straight 3-Ball setting. A variation of this would be the ability to share configuration settings (assuming that changes have been made beyond one of the fixed installs) of just the game related settings. This would still show the checksum type value but create more of an apples to apples comparison. If you think about it, one could change a bunch of settings, score a 3.4 Million, have buddies come over and make everything harder until they leave. Sounds ridiculous but entirely doable and I'm sure that some do it.

I'd like to be able to select a configuration and play it comparing my progress and scoring with others online just not sure how that is even possible at present. An example would be having the ability to watch a stream; JJP's or Kevin's etc... and downloading their game only type settings to challenge myself with on my own pin.

Hats off to Ted Estes back in the day with his TZ scoring and how he prevented buy-in scores to post to the main HS list, very cool idea!

#1818 8 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

Pirates pickup day!

On a Sunday? Lucky guy, congrats!

#1821 8 months ago


Exactly, even if there were only one or two canned 'installs' that you could validate scores against for this global type of score keeping, that would be cool! These scores could have a single or double character code that would show that this was achieved with one of the two installs. All other scores would have been achieved outside of these and would only be of value to you in your home. Why does Walter Day and Billy Mitchell come to mind when I think of scoring?

#1923 8 months ago
Quoted from tonycip:

I updated the machine to .97. it shows that on screen. but now I cant seem to get .98 to go in.. any Ideas..

The .98 delta files must reside within an appropriately named folder (see delta install details on their site). Ensure that you didn't just unzip the file into another main folder using the zip file's name. Just unzip it's connects into the required folder per JJP's instructions. When you have your pin running, connect the USB drive and then go into the Utility - USB Update option. This should see the files in that folder on the USB.

It is perfectly acceptable to have this folder at the root of your prepped ready full .97 USB drive. This is handy when making round to other pins of the same title to update those.

#1971 8 months ago

darkryder, unfortunate that you've had to experience this but it looks like you did a great job and took some excellent pictures along the way. These will be helpful to many!

#2046 8 months ago
Quoted from roddog:

hahaha nope that thing seemed intentional since it was stuck on there. ill remove it. thanks!

Hate to say it but there is a pic at the beginning of the manual which shows them with removal details. Might even be in the loose paperwork that ships with the pin

I doubt that anyone goes through this stuff but it really can be helpful. Not to mention the revised manual outlining the rules!

#2094 8 months ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Does anyone know how to clear the camera pictures? Does one have to reset the high scores to get rid of saved pictures?

Sounds about right to me. They were taken for HS, hopefully that does it!

#2166 8 months ago
Quoted from seenev:

I don't necessarily dislike the jack sparrow character. I'm just not a fan of layouts that just show a big picture of a character on the playfield with no real function other than to show the brand. It just seems cheesy. If they have to brand that area, I think the skull and crossbones from the ride/movie logo would have been better thematically.

Fortunately translights of old could be replaced with alternates. If you've been around long enough you will remember, LW3, LAH, BW, DM etc... These actors wanted to be seen and in a large way!

#2336 7 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

...download the PinGuy app to do a truer level front to back And side to side. I believe there is a similar app for Android though I'm not the guy to pitch that.

I see what you did there

#2426 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

So basically, we can just unscrew it and drill it down centered?

That would have been my first thought.

It seems like a few people have their nose out of joint about an off centered topper. Remove it and position it centered, 'problem' solved. Not sure why this was ever listed as an 'problem' or 'issue'. Pearl harness with breaking leads, that is something of concern

1 week later
#2562 7 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

The bug where you hit chapter start, and it doesn't start a chapter, is driving me crazy. I hope we see a .99 or 1.00 soon with that fix.

If they can add a ball save option for tortuga drains I would appreciate it. I can't count how many times the ball kicks out and drains. I have tried all of the coil power settings, the coil strength is unreliable, sometimes kicks hard, other times soft.

The double flipper at the end of the chapter selection works well to kick the ball up with the magnet but occasionally can drain as well.

There are also times when the ball flies off of the pearl over the left sided gate, SDTM.

Has anyone experienced a ball drain on the left outlane when the ball goes up past the left flipper, hits the gate and goes under the gate, only to drain from the left outlane drain?

Wow, that was draining...

#2567 7 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Completely agree on that bumpers/tortuga VUK. I have used lots of coil settings and sometimes it kicks super hard and other times it is hardly at all. Very sporadic. I noticed the shield on it is loose and so I'm going to have to remove a bumper to get at and tighten them. I will report back if that fixes the sporadic behavior. I'd be curious to know if your kickout shield is also loose?

My shield/deflector is tight. One of the things on my list to do when I get a pin. The power is exactly as we have both experienced.

#2583 7 months ago
Quoted from phoenixpin:

Just bought my LE (first pin!) and am excited to join the group! Crossing fingers I won’t have some of the issues posted here, but I appreciate everyone here that offers so much help to each other to make sure everything works smoothly.
I am blown away by how great this game is and can’t wait for it to arrive.
Re: a question asked above about play field protectors etc, I have a similar question. If there is anything you all think I should do to the game to maintain it in great condition before I start playing, please let me know!

Welcome and congrats on selecting a great first pin!

I haven't tried a full PF protector but the newest ones are even thinner from what I read. Might be a good buy. Until then...

I put the small mylar squares (1 each) under the ball drop of each in-lane. Look down through the habitrail (metal rail/ramps) hole to ensure that you are right below the hole where the ball drops. Use a new exacto blade to trim out the switch hole and play away. I then ordered two Cliffy universal slot protectors and installed them as well.

There is a small odd shaped mylar in your goodie bag. The best I can tell is that it goes quite nicely on the Pearl where the ball drops in from the VUK in the upper right side of the playfield. Position it to get the most coverage for the ball drop.


I also had an extra mylar square handy so I trimmed it and installed it on the small wood area between the ball eject and the outlane. I noticed that mine was getting a bit black from the balls ejecting.

I think that we need a bit of mylar where the balls drop out of the chest. They do drop onto the white post area below on the playfield so not sure on this one yet. I need more mylar before I can do that. This or maybe a small carbon fiber Cliffy around the hole for the white post. (This does not yet exist from Cliff, just a thought)

(Edited: I've linked to my posts which include pics!)

The last thing that might be of interest is to pull the playfield out and forward and use a flashlight and to look at the placement and coverage of the factory installed mylar protectors. Ensure that they aren't skewed or maybe out a bit too from their intended coverage area, leaving any unprotected area.

Many might not care about this stuff but I do as it is my pin.

Have fun!

#2584 7 months ago

zaphX, nice list and great idea in getting this out on Pinwiki, your contribution will be appreciated by many.

Although I love the inclusion of pictures when detailing or describing things, I'll share my thoughts for consideration of your tips, thus far:

"switch errors on the ship on startup";
- you mention 'Black pearl" in the other points, maybe add "Dauntless" to this one.

"Action button sticking during gameplay"
- I realize that my issue was not yours but on all three POTC pins that I've helped out with, the tip of the button plunger (the screw on the end), was skewing slightly down along the metal switch arm and causing binding as well. As per one of my posts (pics are included) I just bent the metal switch arm up in the middle of the arm to form A BIT OF a V. This essentially makes the switch arm sit above horizontal and prevents binding.

Here is my post:

Quoted from dnaman:

Update: simply bent the cherry switch arm up a bit and with the sanding down of the button shaft etc...(see previous post) all buttery smooth now![quoted image]


Just additional thoughts.

#2586 7 months ago
Quoted from Jireteg:

Do any other of you have problems to reach JJP support, I have 2 open tickets that I don´t even get a response to. In one I had the last response dec 4th, and after that nothing even though I have sent a couple of emails regarding the broken parts that JJP said they would send. In the other one I haven’t even got a response beside the automatic support ticket mail.
Is there anyone here att JJP that can contact me and resolve this matters (scratched back box decals, broken action button, broken menu buttons in coin door). ltg
/ Jonas Jireteg, Sweden

Hi Jonas,

Very sorry to hear about your issues. I expect that it would make it worse if you don't have a local dealer to handle this communication with JJP. Lloyd will likely respond here as well.

I recall long ago with my WOZ issues that I was told not to rely on the ticketing system; not sure that has changed by what you describe. I then directed all of my support questions through to Frank and Jen (Jack's daughter) via email. I can PM those over (Edit: PM sent) Amazing response on all of my questions and issues.

This said, based on you current situation, I would call their support Team. I have been told by others that they have even connected with Jack.

Two other places to communicate; FaceBook and GoogleGroups; search Jersey Jack Pinball

Be well.

#2588 7 months ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

Anyone getting the ball stuck between the moving ship and the up ramp. I constantly have to hit the flippers to knock it back down.

Yes, it happens once in a while for me but not painful as it takes a flip to kick it down when sitting on the far left (left flipper side). The ball sits on the gap between to mini pf and the plastic ramp. I am happy with the top edge alignment of the pf (when horizontally level) and the ramp so not sure what your option is, unless you have a larger gap maybe? Let's see what others share.

#2589 7 months ago

I've had a few ball hang ups.

The 'spot catch' (or insert a more clever name here) has happened at least two times to me.

IMG_20181120_1109577 (resized).jpgIMG_20181120_1110152 (resized).jpgIMG_20181124_1437552 (resized).jpg
#2595 7 months ago

I believe that the issue that zaphX is describing is when the ball sits at the gate on the left side of the plastic ramp. The adjustment described pulls the right side of the plastic ramp down, thus allowing the ball to roll towards the right side and down the ramp.

The issue that tmezel is describing (I believe) is when the ball sits on the gap between the mini pf and the plastic ramp. The ball will roll left and right with the pearl motion, once it goes to the left, flipping the mini flipper will kick it out of the gap and down the right side of the ramp.

My pearl and ramp are beautifully aligned when the pearl is homed, there is still a gap between both however.

#2621 7 months ago
Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Anyone else with ball jumps from the left ramp? To see in the video at about 1:53

I try to adjust the diverter but didn’t help, any ideas ?

I get these as well.

#2641 7 months ago
Quoted from SheriffBarclay:

When y'all turn your machine on, while booting up, do any of y'all hear a really loud feedback click or two ff the speakers?

Mine has always done this as well.

I believe that Keith mentioned it as possibly being resolved in one of the last updates but it is still happening.

I also still have some audio clicking. I'll have to record some of it to see if others have that. There has been some discussion of what to check and to try to re-seat audio/speaker related connectors/cabling but that didn't fix it.

#2657 7 months ago
Quoted from screaminr:

I can't speak for the post you're referring to but here are some pictures of some chipping

For some weird reason I don't mind it either it tells me the pin is " alive "
[quoted image][quoted image]

See, with the tortuga hole and mylar, it is chipping where the mylar has left an uncovered edge. I refer to this in one of my previous posts about what to look for across the PF. Some factory mylar may be skewed or not up to the edge where necessary.

In this instance we could use a carbon fiber Cliffy like on WOZ!

#2658 7 months ago
Quoted from Psw757:

No and I really would like them to add something besides the JJP logo music. I’d ideally like yo ho yo ho a Pirates life for me but if they can’t, a custom Pirate track from David Thiel would fit the bill as well. Something to lure people in!

I think that we've bounced around the idea but if they would just allow an MP3 or sound file option in attract mode then we could choose our own music/audio.

Simple add-on and they could even restrict it to free play only. This way we can add what we want for our home arcade and they don't really have to worry about operators adding something that they shouldn't (if that matters). Who is interested in this?

#2665 7 months ago

An early post of mine detailed (with pics) a few concerns. One was the fork for the chest as it was rubbing on one side of the PF but didn't seem to be restricted so I left it.

With the recent talk about the fork being loose, I opened mine and although the two screws were tight, the fork was skewed. Loosened the screws and straightened the fork, all is good. It does seem that I am landing a few more balls into the chest but too early to tell.

IMG_20181124_1104273 (resized).jpgIMG_20190105_1255045 (resized).jpgIMG_20190105_1256208 (resized).jpg
#2667 7 months ago
Quoted from f3honda4me:

Where can I get Mylar for slingshot and lanes for this pin? I have some chipping already so I’d like to protect that area.

Your goodie bag in the coin box should have mylar for the two sling shot areas as well as at least two squares. I used the two squares for the ball drop areas on the in-lanes and now have just added 2 Cliffy slot protectors.

There is also a mylar for the black pearl in there. Look at a few of my old posts for images.

#2668 7 months ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Put mirrors in...boy they are a tight fit!
[quoted image]

I've always worried about that, scratches suck!

I have thought that it would be cool if there was a 1/8" recessed/routed space for the mirror blades. This would be extra time and money but it would be cool.

#2681 7 months ago
Quoted from wheels:

Is there a screw on the underside of the playfield on which the post attaches that was stripped? May have to start with removing that?

Hopefully there is a nut and you just need to hold either the post or nut while turning the other to loosen it. Unfortunately I am not at the pin to check it out for you. Good luck!

#2811 7 months ago

Tennessee Moonshine!

Hell, if it were summer, I'd take a drive

#2917 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

While we are talking abut those fork screws...has anyone had to tighten them more than once?
I’ve done mine, but every time I fail to load the chest I wonder if they’ve gone loose again.
I may crack it open once more and use some loctite.


#2924 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Was that a vote in favor of using it, or an expression of incredulity I’d consider such a thing?

Yes, in support of using it. Maybe others can ring in if it has helped. There seems to be some discussion about the design of this, IE: not having a nut below etc... Maybe a thin locking washer below the head would work?

I've had to tighten the bolts once myself. If it's an issue I will just trim the BP skirt back evenly so that I can access the bolt head quickly. There isn't much trimming on mine that would be necessary and the skirt doesn't rotate so no biggie.

#2925 7 months ago
Quoted from JordanB:

What's odd is that these screws seem to be covered by a plate for the vuk assembly on the underside. Presumably the screws aren't actually hitting the plate, but it also means you can't have a locking nut holding these screws in place. I worry that they'll just loosen up again.
[quoted image]

So no room for a locking nut but you can try a thin locking washer, topside. Remove the bolt and drop it through one of these (each bolt of course). One looks to have aggressive teeth on it but you get the idea.

lock-washers-811671-64_1000 (resized).jpg0001033_4mm-kep-locking-washer (resized).jpeg
#3011 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Assuming it is that rollover, what is the fix?

A few screws on the backboard will allow you to remove the top of the Dauntless. Remove it and play for a while until a hangup, look straight down and snap a picture to share. Let's see what is causing it. Likely the arched rollover switch wire.

#3021 7 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I’ve gotten “Special” a few times - anyone know what that is?

You can select what Special hands out and and what score (IE:125,000 etc...) within the setup.

#3041 7 months ago
Quoted from Zaquar:

Have just had pirates for about a month now but if I had to get rid of it or WOZ, pirates would be the keeper. Can’t wait until the rules are further developed, but so many variables create all kinds of fun potential and unique scenarios you want to keep chasing. Good luck!

I have and love both! Now, oddly enough I have a couple of friends who are fans of my WOZ, having played it a few times and both played pirates but went back to WOZ. Odd but true. BTW, POTC isn't going anywhere, they can both walk the plank!

#3051 7 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Just a thought … there is no Kraken in the game or a related multiball, etc.

Not to pile on, but this was written, 'matter of fact'.

#3092 6 months ago
Quoted from screaminr:

... and I thought it would be cool if they showed the passage of time while playing the game .For example if you played for say 5 minutes or achieved a certain amount of stuff in the game the lights could go orange to represent a sunrise or a sunset and then darker and have lights twinkling to represent night time and normal lighting for daytime and at the end of the game it could tell you how many days sailed.

The more we toss around ideas, the better!

I think that the challenge with this one scenario is the basis of playing chapters within movies. The chapters are random (a random 5 of 25 per movie, per game). Each scene is of course based on different times of day. That would clash with an over all, progress approach.

#3114 6 months ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Finally pulled mybmirror blades off my game. They are pretty scratch up. Just too tight. Luckily you can never tell they were there since screw holes are below the playfield.

Sorry to hear but thank you for sharing. I always wonder about these scratching.

I've likely typed it before (certainly have thought), that it would be cool if the inner blade area were routed back 1/8" into the cabinet, problem solved but at a cost to have the two sides routed.

#3144 6 months ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Due to popular demand I made another batch of shooter rod mods. PM if interested.
[quoted image]

If anyone is interested in these go ahead and get them here from tonycip

A friend and I already had the other one on order (before these were an option) for many many more dollars and although I do love it, not convinced that it is worth the price difference

#3202 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Oops. RTFM’d!
I should have guessed it was in there. The manual is quite good.

The manual is amazing and most will never know it

#3227 6 months ago

Yes I also have those small nicks/scratches.

My POTC shipped with only 4 balls, I used them along with a new ball. I could replace all of them but is is an interesting type of mark.

#3228 6 months ago
Quoted from arcadem:

Not sure what you mean by "most will never know it". It is too bad that the printed manual (all of JJP's manuals are great) is only included with the CE but it is available for the rest of us in the parts section of JJP's web site for the POTC. I ordered one for my LE today.

Too be that most will never see it as they won't likely think to download it, view digitally on screen, within the pin's setup, print it or buy it.

You can see by a number of the questions that come up that many have never leafed through the manual and it is a great manual!

...unfortunate in that sense.

#3238 6 months ago
Quoted from Balint:

Mine just arrived, and I noticed that during the topper’s dim/light phase it is kind of flickering. Is this normal?

Yes. Make sure that you have the latest software installed as well. This changes the behavior as well.

#3338 6 months ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Is the topper centered?

I am quite surprised that with all this talk about the topper being off center that these same people haven't noticed that the LE number plate is crooked.

#3346 6 months ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Hi guys.
I asked this and nobody responded so I’ll try again.
Any must have protection items needed? Cliffys, mylar, airball protectors, etc?
Your opinions on side-art VS mirrors VS nothing?
I’m trying to order things ahead of time.

Check some of my posts and images as well. I had been asking this prior to delivery and essentially moved forward on my own. Some of what I listed, with pics may help.

#3367 6 months ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

You guys are awesome. I appreciate your input. Thank you

This is something else that I've wanted to replace since first seeing it; the 12" Ethernet patch cable running between
POTC06 Pop Bumper Area RGB LED Board (J601 Ethernet connector) to (J904 Ethernet connector) on POTC09 [Left Orbit & Upper Targets RGB LED Board (large board with all of the Ethernet RJ45 ports on it)].

Have a look at yours to see if it is too tight. If so, replace it with a 2'. Cheap fix and removes the strain on those two connectors.

Pictures show; 1' patch, with closeup of two ends, then the 2' replacement patch cable, in place tied and the relief of the two ends

IMG_20190204_2039333 (resized).jpgIMG_20190204_2039451 (resized).jpgIMG_20190204_2039573 (resized).jpgIMG_20190204_2040482 (resized).jpgIMG_20190204_2043520 (resized).jpgIMG_20190204_2043591 (resized).jpgIMG_20190204_2044079 (resized).jpg
#3373 6 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Mine is super tight. Good to know that a standard Ethernet cable will work. I will do that. Thanks!

Standards are the way to go, hats off to JJP to go this route. Robust, cost effective and reliable.

With my music gear, companies have been using this for years now; Line 6, Hear-Back, Aviom etc... No proprietary communication cabling between devices!

I am in the final stages of completing the switch over to the WOZ LED 2.0 in my WOZECLE and couldn't be happier with how it is cabled. Far better connectors from power to data and all of the main connectivity uses Ethernet patch cables, brings my pin up to 2019 standards. I will have a lot of pics and notes to share over in the WOZ club once complete.

#3438 6 months ago
Quoted from heni1977:

but it is online which to me is the most important thing since I am not about to carry manuals every where I go.

It is also available right on the pin inside the setup menu!

#3476 6 months ago
Quoted from Hogbog:

Bug has been corrected on the latest software, which will be dropping in the next couple weeks.

Thanks Eric!

Is there a list somewhere or possibly a wish list somewhere?

The one thing that gets me with some regularity is when a ball travels back up the left in-lane, hits the gate and goes under it. I don't think there is a mechanical fix but it would be cool if the software recognized that neither of the in-lane switches above were triggered and gave your ball back. Even if only in single ball play.

Be well and thanks for an incredible adventure!

#3540 6 months ago
Quoted from pinball_keefer:

... And you'd detect this... How?

Hi Keith. Yes, good point!

Thinking out loud... and to share my silliness...

There would have had to been a switch to the right of the gate or the gate would have to be a switch itself to first be registered, to know that either of the 2 left side in-lane switches were not triggered, otherwise a ball drain through the left of the gate is no different than a SDTM drain. Never mind... just passing through

#3652 6 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

The new WOZ Yellow Brick Road will have some problem mechs stripped out and will be super limited edition with new art at a staggering cost.

So, less for more? NO THANKS!

I was on the fence about selling my WOZECLE (w full 5V buffered kit). I would then have either bought a RR75th (2.0) or waited for the YBR edition. Sounds like I am glad that I didn't. I have just spent a few days installing a full WOZ 2.0 as I was thinking that I would be further ahead anyway, I think that was wise. I love the metallic green and the extras on it, bonus that it is a true (andJJP's first) LE.

#3659 6 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Dumb question on the manual - can it be downloaded and printed or only viewed online unless you spend $100 for a copy?

This is from the same PDF that is available for everyone and available right in the game's setup menu for quick access. I would never spend $100 USD on it. The JJP PDF manuals are a thing of beauty. Thanks to Butch Peel!

#3683 6 months ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

this is not entirely true. while you are getting everything from the pdf, you also get the behind the scenes photos from the whitewood builds to the shows to extras not found online.
I have a hard copy of all 4 games. they are great to have around (and my brother, nephew and daughter make cameos in the different manuals)

Ah, I never thought about the extras that they added. I only saw the diagram which I know is in the PDF. I stand corrected.

So next question, who is going to share 300DPI scans of the extras? PM me

#3754 6 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Ahhhh, so it's intentional. Okay, good to know. Thank you!

Intentionally genius.

#3755 6 months ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

For the guys that have had this game for a couple months or more, what do you think of it? Is it still worth 10k? Are you having any thoughts of dumping it soon? How is it compared to other games you own or have owned? I must admit, I've never had such a difficult time deciding on a game before, but the price still has me held back. For some reason there is a mental threshold past 8k for me. Even if you only had it a very short time, how is the honeymoon period comparing to other games you've owned?

I expect that at present, an owner this side of the border might only lose their tax on a NIB POTC, if selling today. Especially if it will be out of production for a while.

$9500 USD is currently $12575 CDN (possibly + 2% bank fees if you let them convert our dollar). Tax is $1635 CDN (shipping, mods etc... all on top)

I would think $12500 might be doable if some can save $1635 on a gently used NIB. Or maybe one can work out a trade for 1 (+ cash) or 2 other pins etc...

That said, if you are questioning losing money or having a hard time on anything over 8K (USD), don't buy NIB, buy used

#3775 6 months ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

Screw it, you only live once. I just paid in full for an LE, so it looks like I'll be joining the club. Oh boy!

Attaboy! Good choice, I don't think that you will have any regrets.

Quoted from GCS2000:

peer pressure is a wonderful thing, isn't it

Well, I can only assume that if we were hanging in Stern or another competitor's club that they could convince you why you shouldn't by this pin

#3811 6 months ago
Quoted from SheriffBarclay:

Thanks Lloyd! First pin so I'm a newbie. Is this easy to follow? So many wires. Do I just start from the motor under the playfield? Which wires do I trace?

Congrats on buying your first new pin and choosing that to be both a JJP and their POTC!

There is literally no limit to that amount of support you will receive here. You will get this figured out.

Be sure to register your pin (serial number) on JJP's site and you can always open a ticket as well as ask in here. Opening a ticket ensure that the JJP Team is aware of your problem whether you figure it out or they call you back and assit, this is helpful information to them, especially if it is a bigger issue (game affecting).

The only other advice I would give is to try to go back in the thread and see what else others have experienced and what the root causes were and how we collectively resolved, this can only helpful. Lastly, download the manual and go through it at your leisure, It is beautiful and very informative.

Of course you can just skip all of this and just try to focus on playing the pin, when there is no tweaking to do

#3847 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Do you have problems with phantom double and triple tilts? I do regardless of where I put the tilt bob.
Thanks to a YouTube video I finally found the solution. Jam an earplug in there. This gives it enough friction pressure to settle quickly without removing tilt behavior entirely.
[quoted image]

Very clever!

Don't get too accustomed to that behavior if you are tourney player

#3876 6 months ago
Quoted from PiperPinball:

Making and adding some new custom mods!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Now, one of these are exactly along the lines of what I have been DREAMING about! Just not sure how to make what I thinking about. Great job man.

#3883 6 months ago
Quoted from erak:

It flows great. The mechs are amazing.
The # of diverters is crazy. So many different routes for the ball to go. The third flipper shots loops are incredible. And it has different paths. The ship rocking, cannon etc.
Single player and great as it depends on what character you choose can help or hinder you. Multiplayer is a blast with plundering stuff from other players
The code is solid. I could go on and on. There really isn't just one thing that stands out.
This game just has it all.

Which above everything else would be beyond bizarre if JJP was just simply going to stop making these. It isn't logical.

#3925 6 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

I would love them in clear. I always like to use plastic protectors but want clear. Any chance of that?

Deeper at the edges for protection and clear. Would clear not show the RGB GI better than coloured or smoke?

If anyone already has the vector files for these I could run off my own. I just have a small CNC but it works. Making the files is possible of course but that would save me time

#4007 6 months ago
Quoted from screaminr:

It would be great if someone could post a video of removing and re-installing the ship .
It was said that someone from jjp was going to do it but they must be to busy .

I believe that it was mentioned here that that Butch might do it but I do know that he has been helping with Tech support. He has great videos and this would be a welcomed one it seems.

With mine NIB, I did not remove the Pearl but I tilted it up in setup and went under, from an angle and snipped a few zip ties and gave some slack to the switches. I also used a braided wiring loom and fed it through the harness hole in the plastic and main playfield (around the whole Pearl wiring harness) to provide some extra protection for the wires that would rub against the hole in the plastic above the MAP area (directly under the Pearl). I can share a picture if that is hard to visualize.

#4008 6 months ago

Zora, you can always edit your post to adjust these things. In this case just move the last html tag called blockquote, along with the leading less than, slash and trailing greater than sign to just before your comment(s).

This is the: < / blockquote >
Without the spaces that I've provided.

Of course you may already know this and just decided to add a second post, if so... ignore this one

#4069 6 months ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I have the same side rail issue. I am hoping someone will come out with some better side armor rails. Maybe some cool ones with cut outs and light behind them. I know if I had a flow jet I could make them but alas I do not!

Same here, loose but I'm alright with it for the moment as I too am looking for something better and laser cut etc...

#4190 6 months ago

A very good start but needs improvement. There are errors and omissions it seems.

IE: pop bumper mystery colors are backwards I believe (RED and WHITE)

Also, missing the point of the rollover button at loop to drop into the bumpers, this will increase the lowest mystery light by one.

The guide simply says: Pop bumper entrance - Small gap near the loop that has a rollover. The ball tends to fall into this area at random.