deleted as I didn't have to "go there"

deleted as I didn't have to "go there"

I just realized that and apologize for stinking up the room...my bad, hands down

Wow

That is one of the worst findings and QC problems I have ever heard of

one worded answers: Norwegian confirmed

Get deposit back, purchase from someone with stock

Delays are acceptable, not being answered is not

wish I could upvote more than once

you see the same effect of saturation vs brightout at

well..does that mean cheaper monitors on POTC Standard and LE than on WOZ, DI and Hobbit? And the old original style only on the POTC CE?

Only a JJP collector would be able to check on that

For me it was not staring at JDepp.
Well worth the ticket

In the end what matters, and what only matters, is that these playfields do not dimple like some of the Sterns.

Why you are so upset about a layer that only serves one single purpose, which is spacing out and creating a sandwich effect, will remain your little secret. Unproductive bickering.

That why I said ~some~ Stern

I have seen Star Wars LEs that dimple like your POTC, hardly at all, I have seen Star Wars Pros that dimple, within days, to something that looks like Jabba the Huts ass..

With Stern it is a roll of the dice, with JJP you get top shelve, always.

I own 3 Stern LEs and 2 Pros, rest premiums, know first hand unfortunately

I can sink with left but better get the upper left floor out of the way in time

With chest i can help

You see that black metal arm that holds the balls back on the left.
Gently push down on it, that will cause it to rotate out of the way.

Only fyi a degree or two at a time, this is finicky.

Takes a few tries until you have the right position but you will be good to go from there on.

Too low and they all roll out, too high and the second but definitely the third ball will get stuck.

Until you work on the target ship and touch the chest lock assembly by accident
Then it's time for resetting it once again

That is not a fix per se, those are subjective preferences.
Ok my DVI POTC CE I have brightness at 42, contrast at 80 for perfect black and vibrant colors, color user, temp user

You can go with high (amplified) load into the Pinnovator SubMix?

http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=58&osCsid=v0j72l1pmjm6r49kb93549pu30

Usually I go in with the preamp signal path, not the amp out.

Or are you running this in the path as well:

http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=84

Bump them up 1 step at a time until on the left the ball does airball out of the maelstrom, on the right it airballs into the gate on top of the ramp.
Now back to your last good setting ... depending on comfort zone maybe home two back.

My stock setting was offset as well, I bet it's just what they are told to do at the factory.
I left the ship flippers stock, but increased the three playfield flippers to upp the fun factor and take any floatiness out of the game and makes the chest more reliable.

Could one of you CE guys do me a quick favor and either show or explain how the topper is hooked up? It comes with one dark blue/ light blue and one dark blue/ dark blue with purple stripe lead (two leads/cables total), both on connectors with two female plugs, they reach ca. 4 inches into the backbox, no two connectors up there in reach or first sight, no additional cable came with my topper, please assist if you could.

-Goetz

Found it, hidden behind the left speaker for future reference

My cable is around 3 inches to short to make connection, hence it was not obvious at first sight, will cut and solder extension in place.

Well, they are 3 inches short

Already fixed, and a reminder to everyone in on the CE: the software .98 is set to the wrong topper speed stock, it is preset to 12.
Try a number between 4 and 6 instead, the noise will be gone and the ship will gently rock as it is supposed to, not hop and down like a raceboat

Here is what I took away from setting up my CE:

Eric's design is absolutely solid, and whoever did QC on the assembly line needs a kick in the rear.

Once I addressed and fixed all the things I had to address and fix the sound design became obvious.

Except for a few small modifications that I had to make, I will share those here in the coming days.

It could be that the whole release assembly is out of alignment.
When working on the target ship you can easily touch the chest release arm and get it out of alignment by mistake.

Grab that little black arm and push a tad down on it.

Now shoot a ball into chest. If the ball stops bend a tad more. Rinse/repeat.

Once the ball slips through with arm in the locked position you went a bit too far. Bend back to the last good position and you now have the lock assembly in the most aggressive alignment possible, should now work on regular release times like a dream.

If ball 2 and 3 being added to the stack or very fast balls entering the chest cause a ball to slip through raise the arm a tad, as well.

Fininkey but achievable.

And next time you work on the target ship be carefull not to touch the chest lock arm....it doesn't take much as the assembly is necessarily flimsy.

So to confirm, the stock balls were the problem?

That was Hilton

You're a little obsessed with Chris.
Got a man-crush on him?

Is plundering enabled at Pinballstar, Joe?

Well...did he ever adjust the spinning disc ride hide?

If the disc is too liw the clear will be torn off just like that.

Three code issues on 0.98 I wanted to share:

One out of 10 games the wrong Piece of Eight is being called out as collected, but the correct one is added to the list of already collected Pieces on the screen

I has one game where I loaded the cannon and the Pearl stopped rocking. Just sat there level.
Had to drain the ball and the Pearl started moving again.

Disabled "Pro Tips" or what is was called and now most of the after ball bonus screens do not play background clips, it is only the white text on black background.

Exact same had happened to me. Both solder points were cold, of incredibly poor quality. Pulled the original solder and resoldered the cables, all good now.

Only one solution due to the geometry here, pull all spots and install Pinstadium.

Yes, could not handle the glare
It is important to tape over the pinstadium leds at

Cave
Kraken
Target ship
Pearl entrance

As they are otherwise too bright
20190301_145546 (resized).jpg

Since everything is designed in CAD, playfield cut in CNC, since everything therefore mounts the same I would think that it has to be the cannon itself.
Can someone post the page from the manual? So that we can look at the mech?

How nicely cut your foam strip is.

On my CE the installer didn't give a rats ass, they ripped the stripp off of the roll of foam tape by hand, looks "very" nice....

Pro-Tip right here, you just blew my mind....and for years I played Pinball-Twister in front of my coindoor testing shit.....LOL.....

Yes, lose flipper. Both of mine were lose out of box....

I got most of the game figured out by now.... But what are skulls, their values and their bonuses?

Well... on a Stern I agree.... On a JJP you usually better come in at 300lbs plus if you want any chance at nudging.

Or are as of the chains as Derek's wife is... She almost threw the POTC out of the window during her successful right outlane saves yesterday

Harry Houdini's "Apron Art" Upgraded Decal Set and Full Width Galaxy Starmap Backboard Plastic installed on my CE

20190731_121309 (resized).jpg

You don't want an old CE playfield, you want a new generation one from JJP once they come in from Germany