Anyone have a lead on a POTC LE? I’m looking for one NIB shipped to San Jose, CA. PM me with details and price, thanks.

Anyone have a lead on a POTC LE in Northern California? If so, shoot me a PM with details and price. Ready to buy

Right there with you. I paid for LE #484 in full yesterday and it will be arriving next week. So pumped!

POTC LE #484 joined the herd yesterday, what an amazing game by JJP. Next to Hobbit, this is definitely the most immersive pin ever, wow. I played two games and managed 850M on the second game. Started every wizard mode except for Dead Men Tell No Tales, what a rush!

My game had some issues out of the box, most likely due to vibration during transport cross country. The pirate on the pop bumper barrel figure was loose at the bottom of the playfield and scratched up with a broken hat. That loose part scratched the star/constellation plastic on the backboard. The compass spinner decal has some big air bubbles I couldn’t rub out. The metal weldment under the chest is cracked from vibration and the British ship at the upper left was loose and flopping around as its shaft had slipped out of the bushing (clip was at the bottom of the backbox). I slid the shaft back into the bushing and pressed the clip back in. Now the ship is where it should be, but it still feels pretty loose and the tip of the ship seems to touch the ramp in front of it as well as the side of the cabinet. I’m not sure how that ship is supposed to work if someone can explain. There were also a few loose screws at the bottom of the cabinet I couldn’t trace down. If anyone knows where they go, please let me know.

I called JJP support this morning and they’re going to send replacement parts at no charge. Love these guys, they’re absolutely killing it with each new title. The depth and complexity of the rules, incredible sound and innovative shots all over this game just blow me away.

Time to start modding this beauty! Wish they had POTC movie clips, callouts and music in the game, but I’m not complaining, it’s a masterpiece.

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Is the Black Pearl supposed to list to the left slightly at the beginning of a game? Mine lists a little, but then levels out once the game gets going. My GF and I can’t stop playing this game, it’s so damn good! I can’t imagine how much better it will be by code version 3.x. I’ve only played less than ten games myself and managed 1.5B on factory settings. Stacking the multiball modes is so much fun! The compass wheel stopped spinning on the game only a few games into playing it. I removed the compass wheel from the bottom of the playfield and the two screws for the motor had backed out on one was catching the small gear preventing it from spinning. I adjusted the gap correctly between the gears and retightened the two screws with blue loctite. Then adjusted the spinner/wheel height level with the playfield and back in business. My action button is also sticking, I’ll lubricate it with some white lithium tomorrow.

Anyone make a nice set of side art decals for this game yet?

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OK, the slight lean must be normal then. The game plays fantastic now since the minor issues were resolved. The topper works great and we love the flickering effect.

I'd buy that ship in a bottle topper in a second, but couldn't justify the $3K extra for the CE, nor do I care for the art package or green color everywhere. I hope someone else makes a similar topper at some point. It the coil test menu, there's a test for the topper motor. I guess the CE topper ship will rock back and forth. Very cool.

That was a typo, yes 1.5 million. I had all 5 wizard modes stacked and my GF was watching. She was like "holy crap babe, you're in the zone!" I haven't reached the 666 mode yet, I hope to see that soon

Wow, so I only had 5 multiballs stacked and there’s a LOT more to see in this game. What a masterpiece, we can’t stop playing this pin!

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How is the Dauntless ship supposed to function? I see it can move left and right, but I’ve not seen it move or interact during gameplay. I’m wondering if mine is not functioning or maybe I just suck and can’t make the correct shots. Some insight would be helpful.

NM, I just answered my own question. This video shows the prototype firing the pinball from the Black Pearl cannon into the Dauntless. So cool! It also shows the three spinning disks that were removed from the production game. I’ll have to test that cannon shot in the coil tests later this evening as it doesn’t appear to be working on my game.

Does anyone sell shooter lane and scoop protectors for this game or are they even necessary? After 25 or so plays, I'm already seeing dimples all over the playfield, but that's expected. Also, that mystery/tortuga scoop above the upper right flipper is ejecting the ball SDTM at least 50% of the time. I assume it's just a matter of loosening and adjusting the metal scoop?

Thanks for the pointers. As a precaution, I installed one of those plastic inserts in the trough and will also install the square Mylar pieces at the ball drops as suggested. This game is getting heavy play, so I’ll keep an eye on potential wear areas. Had My best game tonight with four multiballs stacked and reached Dead Man’s Chest Wizard mode. Of course, right after the intro movie with the Kraken, I drained (ugh), but ended up with a 2.4M GC score. Firing the cannon ball from the Black Pearl at the Dauntless is so darn fun! Got a bunch of mods on the way for this beauty, it’s a keeper for sure.

That looks fantastic! I just received the same shooter rod and would like to add some black as well to bring out the details in the coin. What was your technique to paint that and what sort of paint did you use? Also, where did you get the spare Aztec coin for the keychain on the coin door?

Thanks for the info heni1977! I'll take a stab at painting the shooter rod coin this evening. This shooter looks so much better than the plain black knob the game ships with. The shooter goes perfectly with the pirate theme and the frequent "Goooooold...arrrrr" callouts during gameplay.

Painted and installed the Aztec coin shooter this morning. IMO, looks a lot better than a plain black knob.

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Yep, just replace the map decal when it wears out. No big deal

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It didn't wear out, mine had pronounced air bubbles in it out of the box, so they shipped me a new decal.

Mine's sagging on the right too, I haven't even opened the backbox since I received the game. Let us know if you find the fix for this.

Eesh, this game has had a lot of issues out of the box. My Black Pearl started throwing switch errors, so I knew I had the dreaded broken switch wires under the mini PF. I removed it and sure enough the wires were broken off on the left frontmost switch.

The zip ties were too tight on the harness and not routed ideally to give them slack as the ship rocks. The soldering on the wires was also pretty bad. I spent a few hours snipping zip ties, routing and resoldering the wires on the two left switches and cleaning/waxing the playfield, especially under the Pearl. Then cleaned and waxed the rest of the playfield and installed new mirror balls. All switches tested OK and the game plays perfectly now.

I played a few games and was able to get all five multiball modes going at once, Tortuga MB, Liars Dice and ended up with 1.3M on factory 3 ball settings. Didn’t reach any wizard modes tonight, but I’ll keep trying. This is one deep and difficult to beat game, like all JJPs.

I’m still on .96 code and will stay there until the next code release. There should be more callouts and mode integration with the Depths and Bayou shots as they don’t do much in the current code. Such a great pin with a lot more potential with further code development. The sounds and music in this pin are the best I’ve ever heard in a pinball machine. The music score and LED lighting changes during the different modes is incredible.

Oh, and yes the topper is off center. Looks odd, I’ll need to figure out how to center it.

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No idea, maybe Santa's helpers were too busy rushing to assemble and ship games before Christmas and drunk on egg nog, lol.

I hope I don't have to redrill new holes in the top of the backbox to get it centered. Will take a look after the holiday madness subsides.

The LE and CE toppers are nice, but they can't compete with the awesome Laseriffic or other aftermarket toppers out there. I'm hoping someone makes a more realistic and interactive pirate ship in a bottle topper for POTC at some point to replace the factory acrylic topper. I never used to like toppers, but now I have to put one on every pin. People always comment on the toppers as soon as they see the games. I think my favorites are BSD and Aerosmith and the Stern Aces High topper is coming for the Maiden LE.

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Anyone else experiencing balls getting stuck under the spotlight behind the Tortuga Tom pop bumper? I’ve had this happen a few times deep into a game and had to pull the glass. I’ve tried bending it up, but the wireform is right above it. Minor issue, but annoying nonetheless.

Yes, of course. To protect the cabinet. I didn't use the JJP felt, I applied strips of thin felt I already had to the inside of the legs before bolting them to the game. You can't see it at all and the nylon washers between the leg bolts and legs are also recommended.

Corrected a few more things on my LE. The display was sagging on the right because it wasn’t latched all the way in - easy fix. The spotlight behind Tortuga Tom just need to be bent up a little so balls no longer get stuck there. I also adjusted the brightness and contrast settings to my liking and the color temp to 9300. After all of the issues, the game is 100% now. Does anyone know how to clear the camera pictures? Does one have to reset the high scores to get rid of saved pictures?

I smeared white lithium grease on the action button shaft and it hasn’t stuck since. So much easier to collect gold now!

Anyone know if the saved pictures can be erased or does that require resetting all high scores or doing a factory reset? Would be nice if JJP provided a way to clear out just the saved pictures

I have this EXACT same issue, it’s frustrating when it happens deep into a good game. Please post if you find a solution

That tortuga VUK was pissing me off too. I ended up bending the scoop upward slightly and reducing the coil strength and now it kicks out slower and never goes SDTM. The game is brutal enough without those cheap drains.

Mine exhibited the same behavior with erratic kickout strength. I had to play with with the VUK coil strength settings to get it where I could live with it. Makes the game far more enjoyable when the satisfying Tortuga shot doesn't turn into a cheap SDTM.

This is what I was planning to do. Should work fine and easily reversible

Decided to remove the backbox as I do with all JJP games when moving into the bedrooms due to the game’s weight and to avoid damage. Removing the backbox on this game is a lot more involved than WOZ or HOBBIT, so take plenty of pics before doing this. Got the game safely moved into one of the game rooms.
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I know the feeling. I tore one of the Tilt Graphics side blades after installation on my POTC and now the game only has one blade installed (ugh). Need to reorder another $80 set and try again. Also ripped my Pingraffix AC/DC and BSD blades, but not as badly as POTC and was able to fix and tape the ripped part back down. I started bending those metal playfield slider/bracket things inward slightly with a crescent wrench to keep them farther away from the cabinet sides. Frustrating to blow $80 a pop on these things and then rip them doing something as simple as lowering the playfield

I only bent them in very slightly. Not sure if it will help or not, but those metal slider support things were too close to the cabinet sides for my liking. The playfield does sit tight in the cabinet on this game. Need to be very careful when lifting and lowering the playfield or risk damaging $80 side decals. A better approach might be to remove those pieces from the playfield and Dremel off a 1/4” from the end of the round lobe and then sand/smooth it out before reinstalling.

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One can also install stick on felt along the sides of the playfield to protect the cabinet sides. I did this one a few of my pins and need to finish the rest

Yep, same thing keeps happening on my LE. Having a great game and three balls locked in the chest and the game tries to release them but can’t. I turned the game off in frustration the last time it did it and haven’t played it since. Let us know if you find a solution.

Yes, it didn’t fix the issue. The game can’t release the balls from the chest and it just goes into and infinite ball search. I can see the release arm/gate isn’t retracting far enough to allow the balls to roll out

Need some help guys. I’m putting my POTC back together after have removed the backbox and moved the game into one of the back rooms. There’s one connector I’m not sure where it plugged into on the motherboard behind the metal cover. I’m also not sure which USB connector plugged into which USB port at the bottom of the motherboard and don’t want to accidentally reverse them. One of them has a yellow zip tie around it. If anyone has their backbox open and would mind taking a look and posting a few pics of those specific cables, I’d greatly appreciate it. Starting to miss playing this game!

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Zaphx - That was it, all three connections are back where they belong and the game is up and running! Thank you VERY much

I finally fixed my treasure chest issue tonight for good. All you guys with locked balls in the treasure chest not releasing during multi ball, here’s your fix. Basically, the chest is too level and not angled to the left enough for the balls to roll out. The black foam inside the chest is intended to be there and is NOT the issue. The fix is to remove the nut holding down the right side of the chest. Then install a second identical nut on the threads first and tighten it down. Position the chest bracket back over the bolt and install the other nut to secure the chest. You’ve effectively added more left angle to the chest and now the balls will roll out of the chest much easier.

I had slightly magnetized Ninja balls and replaced them with new ones which made no difference, but raising the right side of the chest fixed this issue for good. So nice to lock three balls in the chest multiple times in a game and have them release like they should now. You may have to bend the release arm slightly towards the closed position if the balls are rolling out of the chest and overpowering the hold arm as they will have more weight and momentum. I also turned the left and right lower flipper power settings up to 30 to make treasure chest shots more consistent.

Now I need to figure out how to fix the loose slingshot posts from tearing into the playfield art and chipping it. Maybe replace those thin posts with regular star posts to protect and also cover the existing damage? The screen in the backbox is also won’t stay level and locked in the latches. I’ve tried messing with it over and over and as soon as I install the backglass, it pops out of the latches and sags on one or both sides. Looks like crap and I want this fixed.

This thread is really great with everyone co tributing with mods and fixes. It’s an amazing game when everything works!
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Glad to help and no, I didn't have the rapid fire issue with my chest release. Hope you figure that one out.

I had the same issue. You might need to turn up the chest coil strength value in the coil settings from 3 to 4 or 5. I also had to fiddle with the metal arm a few times to get the arm to rest just where it needs to be so the balls don't roll/push through the release arm or get stuck in the chest. You can very carefully bend that lock/release arm assembly forward or backward to adjust the position of the arm in closed position. Don't get too aggressive or you might break something. I finally got mine dialed in perfectly, but the extra lock nut on the right side of the chest is what finally fixed the three balls not releasing from the chest at the start of multiball.

Nice. I will go ahead and replace the four posts with standard clear posts which will prevent future playfield damage and cover up the existing chipping.

I swapped out the skinny sling posts for standard clear starposts and covered up the chipping playfield damage caused by the loose lower left post. I used blue loctite when reinstalling the larger posts and then played about 10 games straight. My LE is finally dialed in perfectly after fixing one issue after another for months. This is one fun and very challenging game when everything is working properly. I could only muster 1.4M tonight, not even close to my GC 2.4M score. The game plays perfectly with the regular star posts, no concerns with swapping them out if you so desire. Time to order some more Mod Couple mods

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No washers underneath or on top. The game didn’t come with any whatsoever on the slings

Good catch, I didn’t even notice that myself! I had those starposts in my parts bin for years and POTC needed them so in they went. I suppose I could change them out again, but I doubt I will. I’m just glad the playfield isn’t being chipped anymore

That was me and it was pretty nightmarish. Take lots of detailed photos of the wiring in the backbox to be sure you put it back together correctly. Makes moving the game through narrow spaces a whole lot easier though

What’s the proper fix for the sagging backbox display? I fiddled with mine for a long time and it still sags below the translite about 1/4” exposing the metal frame which doesn’t look good. I’m thinking of propping the display up with something on both sides as a quick fix. Any suggestions? I’m hoping to avoid fabricating parts.

Yes, it's snapped in properly and the entire display is sagging about 1/4" vertically in the backbox. It needs to be moved up somehow.

Yes, I saw that and I'm thinking of propping my display on both sides with something similar to fix the issue if there's no other way to move it up vertically. I didn't see any up/down adjustments on the display arm bracket mounting bolts. Maybe I'm missing something

Same here, my display still sags even when fully latched in. I fiddled with it for a good 30 minutes. Will try some small wood blocks to hold it up for now. Frustrating...

Yes! AFM was always my favorite game to play, even before it reached #1 on the Top 100. Fast, furious gameplay with awesome code, sounds, lighting and theme execution. Strobe multiball is bad ass, especially with the upgraded Pinbits strobe light and blackout mod. JJP games can feel too deep, complex and a grind to play at times. AFM gets right into the fast flowing action as soon as you hit the start button and the rules are more simple and straightforward. I’ll probably be selling MB to fund Willy Wonka soon, but AFM and MM aren’t going anywhere!
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Is there a proper fix for the sagging display on POTC yet? I fiddled with it for a long time and it never stays level. Wondering what others have done.

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Thanks, I’ll give that a try. Otherwise, I’ll shim it up with a block of wood or something

Which LED flipper button kits are you all installing on your LEs? I’m looking at BriteButtons, but can’t decide on a color. Any recommendations?

Those do look nice. Was this the kit you ordered?

https://www.pinballlife.com/britebuttons-illuminated-flipper-button-set-jjp-for-dialed-in.html

I assume it's a plug and play affair? Thanks

I’ll take the full set of Cliffy’s. PM me your PayPal address, thanks.

I installed the closing chest mod today. That was not a trivial install, but I finally got it dialed in and what a cool mod! Between the chest and the twinkling star backboard behind the original starmap, the game just keeps getting better. Can’t wait for new code, this game is a keeper for sure. What mods to do next...the game has almost all of them. Need to address that noisy map disc next...very annoying.

I’ve torn my share of inner art decals including the right side decal on POTC during installation. I was so pissed I ripped the decal out of the game and threw it across the room, lol. Ended up repurchasing another set of Tilt Graphics decals to replace the torn decal on the right side, but haven’t gotten around to installing it yet.

I ripped about four sets in a row on different games before I figured out what was catching them and ripping them. It’s those slider brackets under the playfield that the playfield slides in and out of the cabinet on; they’re too close to the cabinet walls. So I went through most of my games and carefully bent the ends of those brackets inward just slightly to move them away from the cabinet. Problem was solved on all games after that. There are other things on the playfield that can catch the decals, but for me it was always those damn brackets.

I always use the wet method with dawn/water and a plastic credit card and that method works great. They sure look nice when installed, I can’t have a game without inner art decals now, lol
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I’d like to add that anchor and star wheel as well if someone finds a source stateside. Looks great!

Lermods translite surround LEDs installed. Very nice upgrade, should have come this way from the factory!

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Thanks for sharing. I can’t imagine ever being able to complete all of these modes in one game, but nice to know what the requirements are. Maybe take the glass off one day and roll the ball around just to see the modes.

Very nice..who doesn’t love topless mermaids? Where did you source this and how is she mounted?

Thanks for sharing this info. This looks like a relatively inexpensive mod that enhances two different areas in the game. Really great idea, I’m going to order the painted mermaid to add the finishing touches to my heavily modded LE.

Has anyone changed the cabinet hardware and legs put on their POTC SE or LE? I’m not digging the plain black armor and legs on my LE. I thought about buying the hammered bronze armor from JJP for Hobbit, but the legs are different between Hobbit and POTC so that’s a no go. I guess removing all of the cabinet hardware and having it powder coated would be the best option. If anyone has done this or has pics to share, please post, I also ordered radcals for my LE last week, so would tackle this whole project all at once.

That looks amazing, very nice job! Did you have Robert Stone powder coat all factory hardware or just buy JJP hobbit gold vein hardware and have him powder coat your original POTC legs? I sent Robert a message, thanks for the guidance.

I guess JJP changed the legs, the Hobbit and WOZ legs are shorter and sit lower on the cabinet than POTC and WONKA. Strange, I know. I had to get out the measuring tape to verify myself.

Are spare playfields for POTC available or are they now unobtainium? I was able to buy the last complete set of RadCals for my POTCLE a few weeks ago, but JJP said they no longer have any playfields available. Shoot me a PM if you have a lead or one for sale

Thanks to Robert Stone, I now have a rare POTC LE “Gold Vein” edition What an improvement over the factory plain black hardware, I’m loving this new look!

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Yes, you purchase everything from him up front and then ship him your original parts, less the rails. That reminds me...I have packing to do! The coin door is overkill to me, I’ll leave it black

I never play mine anymore and still have a bunch of mods to install including full Radcals set. It’s just a huge money pit and dust collector at this point, I’ve thought about selling it and may soon. Frankly, the game is too valuable now to play and I don’t have a spare playfield. If JJP ever finishes the code, I may start playing it again. Let’s hope it comes, eventually

The fiancé and I played it a bunch after I unboxed it and finished fixing all of the issues out of the box and installing tons of mods. I haven’t turned it on in at least a year, but it sure is pretty to look at. I’ve been waiting for the final code update that seems to never come, but hopefully good things come to those who wait. It is a blast to play

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Yes, I bought the last set about 6 months ago. I’m still looking for a spare POTC LE playfield if anyone has one. Parts are damn scarce for this game!

I’d have to let Wonka LE go before Pirates LE. Pirates is something special and that rocking pirate ship with the flickering lanterns had me sold the second I played the game at PAGG! Add the closing treasure chest, Lior and other tasteful mods puts that game over the top! The audio on Wonka does get annoying and repetitive after a while. I love both games and they are both keepers. I’m confident the final code for Pirates will come given the recent beta code release.

Just installed the Pinwoofer GT system on my POTC LE and wow, what a difference! Loving the clarity and the bass hits hard throughout the game now. I forgot what a masterpiece this pin is as I haven't played it in a long time, but it's really something special. There is a faint crackling I can hear in the tweeters when certain sounds play, has anyone run into that and what's the fix? The game also has the Pinwoofer tweeters. I'll try dialing back the gain and volume settings to see if that helps. Game master volume is currently at 21.

I tried disconnecting the lower rightmost connector on the board behind the display and then the game would then report the coin door was open and I couldn't start a game. Turns out a lot of the crackling/hiss was due to the volume knob setting on the PinWoofer amp being turned too high. I dialed it back some and set the game volume between 28 to 30 and now it's a LOT better. There's still a faint crackling from the tweeters when the game over music plays, but it's nowhere near as bad now. If you have a picture of the connector you disconnected on the board for the headphone jack, I would still like to give that a try. Doing this seems to have helped others and I don't use headphones on my pins. Thanks

Where exactly did you disconnect the headphone jack cable? That's what I'm missing. Glad to hear that should fix the issue for good, the tribal knowledge in Pinside is amazing.

Wow, thanks guys. That's precisely the info I was looking for! Will remove that single wire from the connection to the motherboard and report back when done.

I may do this on my Hobbit, WOZ and Wonka as well if it makes a noticeable difference. I'm curious what that wire is for if it's not essential to begin with?

Listed my POTC LE for sale in SF Bay Area. Not in a hurry to sell, but wanted to put this here in case anyone's looking for one.

sfbay.craigslist.org link

I'll sell him my Pirates LE for $27k, lol. I've never been to Free Gold Watch...need to get up there sometime!

There’s nothing like that rocking pirate ship with the creaking sounds and flickering lanterns. It reminds me of the POTC ride at Disney. First time I played it at PAGG, knew I had to have one! It’s very multiball heavy and arguably unfinished/polished, but I’m confident JJP will eventually come through with final code. The toys in that pin are amazing, especially the spinning map, closing chest mod and firing cannon across the playfield. I’m going to order that new silent belt kit for the spinning map as the noise from the stock gear mechanism is annoying. I always thought it was strange that JJP never centered the factory topper, but those unique things give the game character

GnR LE doesn't need Radcals, the cabinet decals are already super glossy and beautiful with all of the album artwork. I bought the last full set of POTC LE Radcals from JJP for $400 or so.Still debating whether I want to remove the factory decals and install these Radcals...there's no going back once you start that project. They are stored in a safe place for now

I might still install them...holding onto them for now. I know they look beautiful when installed properly. I have butter decals on my Alice Cooper and they look insane!

Yes, if I ever find the time, I might take on the project. If I do install them, I’ll heat and remove the base decals from the game first. Don’t like the idea of installing the RadCals over other decals. They sure are pretty! I’d love to peel the protective plastic from them to see them in their shiny glory, but won’t

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I doubt it's printed onto the cabinet, but I could be mistaken. Whatever it is, it looks incredible. Probably the sexiest cabinet artwork on all of my pins.

I hope they polish the code into a masterpiece like they did with Hobbit. That code is as good as it gets, so we know what JJP’s programmers are capable of. Either way, POTC is bolted down

I recall there is a setting in the game settings to control the amount of flicker for the topper. You should be able to adjust how much it flickers

Yeah, the lower settings flicker, if I recall. Haven’t powered my POTC on in years as I’m still waiting for code LOL. Someone else here familiar with the settings can probably provide a clear answer. Worst case, you need a new topper LED strip from JJP. They are fragile and I had to replace mine once

I wouldn’t sell POTC unless you’re offered a great price or a two for one deal for equal value. Scooby Doo, MB, MB and CC don’t hold a candle to POTC and it will be very expensive to replace if you regret it. I’ve toyed with the idea of selling or trading my POTC LE with spare set of RadCals, but can’t do it. I rarely play it and it’s covered in my wife’s bedroom, but it’s beautiful to look at and I still have hope for a final code update at some point. At the end of the day, it’s your game and if you’re making money on the deal, that’s never a bad thing. None of us are taking these games with us when we die, so hoarding material things does seem silly when considering the big picture. Do what makes you happy

I also had issues making the chest lock shot on stock settings on longer games. Turned up the flipper coil strength settings and that definitely helped. You know you’ve set coil strength too high if balls start flying off the left ramp.