POTC LE #484 joined the herd yesterday, what an amazing game by JJP. Next to Hobbit, this is definitely the most immersive pin ever, wow. I played two games and managed 850M on the second game. Started every wizard mode except for Dead Men Tell No Tales, what a rush!
My game had some issues out of the box, most likely due to vibration during transport cross country. The pirate on the pop bumper barrel figure was loose at the bottom of the playfield and scratched up with a broken hat. That loose part scratched the star/constellation plastic on the backboard. The compass spinner decal has some big air bubbles I couldn’t rub out. The metal weldment under the chest is cracked from vibration and the British ship at the upper left was loose and flopping around as its shaft had slipped out of the bushing (clip was at the bottom of the backbox). I slid the shaft back into the bushing and pressed the clip back in. Now the ship is where it should be, but it still feels pretty loose and the tip of the ship seems to touch the ramp in front of it as well as the side of the cabinet. I’m not sure how that ship is supposed to work if someone can explain. There were also a few loose screws at the bottom of the cabinet I couldn’t trace down. If anyone knows where they go, please let me know.
I called JJP support this morning and they’re going to send replacement parts at no charge. Love these guys, they’re absolutely killing it with each new title. The depth and complexity of the rules, incredible sound and innovative shots all over this game just blow me away.
Time to start modding this beauty! Wish they had POTC movie clips, callouts and music in the game, but I’m not complaining, it’s a masterpiece.
Is the Black Pearl supposed to list to the left slightly at the beginning of a game? Mine lists a little, but then levels out once the game gets going. My GF and I can’t stop playing this game, it’s so damn good! I can’t imagine how much better it will be by code version 3.x. I’ve only played less than ten games myself and managed 1.5B on factory settings. Stacking the multiball modes is so much fun! The compass wheel stopped spinning on the game only a few games into playing it. I removed the compass wheel from the bottom of the playfield and the two screws for the motor had backed out on one was catching the small gear preventing it from spinning. I adjusted the gap correctly between the gears and retightened the two screws with blue loctite. Then adjusted the spinner/wheel height level with the playfield and back in business. My action button is also sticking, I’ll lubricate it with some white lithium tomorrow.
Anyone make a nice set of side art decals for this game yet?
Quoted from pickleric:
Mine leans to the left a little. Not sure if it is supposed to, but it seems fine.
Does your LED strip for the topper flicker?
OK, the slight lean must be normal then. The game plays fantastic now since the minor issues were resolved. The topper works great and we love the flickering effect.
Quoted from dirtbag66:
Thinking about joining the club at some point (hopefully sooner rather than later!), and I know this question has probably already been asked but:
Is JJP planning on selling that sweet ship in the bottle topper separately? Can't justify the CE price, so I want to get a LE, then add the topper.
I'd buy that ship in a bottle topper in a second, but couldn't justify the $3K extra for the CE, nor do I care for the art package or green color everywhere. I hope someone else makes a similar topper at some point. It the coil test menu, there's a test for the topper motor. I guess the CE topper ship will rock back and forth. Very cool.
Quoted from JordanB:
Uhm.... presuming you mean 1.5 Million. Which is still hella impressive for less than a dozen games on it. I'm averaging maybe 600k on a good game, I'm happy when I break a million, and 1.6 is my current highest game.
That was a typo, yes 1.5 million. I had all 5 wizard modes stacked and my GF was watching. She was like "holy crap babe, you're in the zone!" I haven't reached the 666 mode yet, I hope to see that soon
How is the Dauntless ship supposed to function? I see it can move left and right, but I’ve not seen it move or interact during gameplay. I’m wondering if mine is not functioning or maybe I just suck and can’t make the correct shots. Some insight would be helpful.
NM, I just answered my own question. This video shows the prototype firing the pinball from the Black Pearl cannon into the Dauntless. So cool! It also shows the three spinning disks that were removed from the production game. I’ll have to test that cannon shot in the coil tests later this evening as it doesn’t appear to be working on my game.
Does anyone sell shooter lane and scoop protectors for this game or are they even necessary? After 25 or so plays, I'm already seeing dimples all over the playfield, but that's expected. Also, that mystery/tortuga scoop above the upper right flipper is ejecting the ball SDTM at least 50% of the time. I assume it's just a matter of loosening and adjusting the metal scoop?
Quoted from dnaman:
I've installed the small 1" square mylar stickers directly below the habitrail drops on the middle lanes (cutting out the top of the switch slot right in place, a sharp blade cuts it very easily). My right drop started to chip the edge of the slot, the mylar has stopped this for now. I am now just waiting on a pair of the universal switch slot protectors from Cliffy.
Cliff is waiting on having access to a POTC so that he can see if there are any custom pieces necessary. JJP has done a good job so far with mylar and the mantis style in-hole protectors, I am very pleased so far.
Thanks for the pointers. As a precaution, I installed one of those plastic inserts in the trough and will also install the square Mylar pieces at the ball drops as suggested. This game is getting heavy play, so I’ll keep an eye on potential wear areas. Had My best game tonight with four multiballs stacked and reached Dead Man’s Chest Wizard mode. Of course, right after the intro movie with the Kraken, I drained (ugh), but ended up with a 2.4M GC score. Firing the cannon ball from the Black Pearl at the Dauntless is so darn fun! Got a bunch of mods on the way for this beauty, it’s a keeper for sure.
Quoted from VillaThrills:
Thanks Mod Couple, just tweaked my weak light. Better. Enough so that I wouldn’t have noticed. A bit of a scary tweak as the hole isn’t straight which is why it was having so many problems out there. You are drilling at an angle to try to hit the light just right. The sculpt doesn’t really help the wiring and bulb placement out any.
Still not sure why that side piece stops so short along the hull.
Added in the gold coin shooter rod that I modified a bit. The coin was just too bright for the game so added in some black too.
That looks fantastic! I just received the same shooter rod and would like to add some black as well to bring out the details in the coin. What was your technique to paint that and what sort of paint did you use? Also, where did you get the spare Aztec coin for the keychain on the coin door?
Quoted from VillaThrills:
amazon.com link »
Right now $2.28. That is all the shooter rod is as well, you can see the loop on the top of the coin on the rod. Since you are painting the depressed areas, you can actually use just about any paint as long as you seal it. I just used craft paint. Wiped off the top to get the gold to show. Let that dry and then seal it with an acrylic spray with several coats.
Thanks for the info heni1977! I'll take a stab at painting the shooter rod coin this evening. This shooter looks so much better than the plain black knob the game ships with. The shooter goes perfectly with the pirate theme and the frequent "Goooooold...arrrrr" callouts during gameplay.
Painted and installed the Aztec coin shooter this morning. IMO, looks a lot better than a plain black knob.
Quoted from DefDumBlindKid:
I apologize if this was previously covered... But, how are people securing their monitors so they don’t sag on the right side? Am I missing something obvious? I’ve seen a few pictures of your machines doing the same sag.
Mine's sagging on the right too, I haven't even opened the backbox since I received the game. Let us know if you find the fix for this.
Eesh, this game has had a lot of issues out of the box. My Black Pearl started throwing switch errors, so I knew I had the dreaded broken switch wires under the mini PF. I removed it and sure enough the wires were broken off on the left frontmost switch.
The zip ties were too tight on the harness and not routed ideally to give them slack as the ship rocks. The soldering on the wires was also pretty bad. I spent a few hours snipping zip ties, routing and resoldering the wires on the two left switches and cleaning/waxing the playfield, especially under the Pearl. Then cleaned and waxed the rest of the playfield and installed new mirror balls. All switches tested OK and the game plays perfectly now.
I played a few games and was able to get all five multiball modes going at once, Tortuga MB, Liars Dice and ended up with 1.3M on factory 3 ball settings. Didn’t reach any wizard modes tonight, but I’ll keep trying. This is one deep and difficult to beat game, like all JJPs.
I’m still on .96 code and will stay there until the next code release. There should be more callouts and mode integration with the Depths and Bayou shots as they don’t do much in the current code. Such a great pin with a lot more potential with further code development. The sounds and music in this pin are the best I’ve ever heard in a pinball machine. The music score and LED lighting changes during the different modes is incredible.
Oh, and yes the topper is off center. Looks odd, I’ll need to figure out how to center it.
Quoted from pipes:
Seriously though - how did they f--k that one up?
No idea, maybe Santa's helpers were too busy rushing to assemble and ship games before Christmas and drunk on egg nog, lol.
I hope I don't have to redrill new holes in the top of the backbox to get it centered. Will take a look after the holiday madness subsides.
The LE and CE toppers are nice, but they can't compete with the awesome Laseriffic or other aftermarket toppers out there. I'm hoping someone makes a more realistic and interactive pirate ship in a bottle topper for POTC at some point to replace the factory acrylic topper. I never used to like toppers, but now I have to put one on every pin. People always comment on the toppers as soon as they see the games. I think my favorites are BSD and Aerosmith and the Stern Aces High topper is coming for the Maiden LE.
Anyone else experiencing balls getting stuck under the spotlight behind the Tortuga Tom pop bumper? I’ve had this happen a few times deep into a game and had to pull the glass. I’ve tried bending it up, but the wireform is right above it. Minor issue, but annoying nonetheless.
Quoted from zaphX:
Am I supposed to leave the felt on when I put the legs on?
Yes, of course. To protect the cabinet. I didn't use the JJP felt, I applied strips of thin felt I already had to the inside of the legs before bolting them to the game. You can't see it at all and the nylon washers between the leg bolts and legs are also recommended.
Corrected a few more things on my LE. The display was sagging on the right because it wasn’t latched all the way in - easy fix. The spotlight behind Tortuga Tom just need to be bent up a little so balls no longer get stuck there. I also adjusted the brightness and contrast settings to my liking and the color temp to 9300. After all of the issues, the game is 100% now. Does anyone know how to clear the camera pictures? Does one have to reset the high scores to get rid of saved pictures?
I smeared white lithium grease on the action button shaft and it hasn’t stuck since. So much easier to collect gold now!
Anyone know if the saved pictures can be erased or does that require resetting all high scores or doing a factory reset? Would be nice if JJP provided a way to clear out just the saved pictures
Quoted from KirboTurbo:
I’m having an issue with the chest not releasing all 3 balls during multiball. It will release 1, but not the other 2. The release gate will twitch and try to let them out, but doesn’t open far enough for them to come out. It will not release the balls after the game is over either. I have to take the glass off. Zaphx, I can’t believe you haven’t seen this yet. LOL
I have this EXACT same issue, it’s frustrating when it happens deep into a good game. Please post if you find a solution
Quoted from f3honda4me:
The tortuga VUK is making me want to not play my game lol. The constantly changing strength at which it kicks the ball out is very frustrating, and often kicks SDTM with nothing you can do. I have tightened the scoop screws, but that didn't fix it, and they tend to constantly loosen up again anyways even with some loctite on them. I feel like nut and bolt was the correct call on that scoop here, and the wood screws are a bad call. But, again, that's not really the issue here anyways.
Anyone found a way to fix this frustrating VUK?
That tortuga VUK was pissing me off too. I ended up bending the scoop upward slightly and reducing the coil strength and now it kicks out slower and never goes SDTM. The game is brutal enough without those cheap drains.
Mine exhibited the same behavior with erratic kickout strength. I had to play with with the VUK coil strength settings to get it where I could live with it. Makes the game far more enjoyable when the satisfying Tortuga shot doesn't turn into a cheap SDTM.
Decided to remove the backbox as I do with all JJP games when moving into the bedrooms due to the game’s weight and to avoid damage. Removing the backbox on this game is a lot more involved than WOZ or HOBBIT, so take plenty of pics before doing this. Got the game safely moved into one of the game rooms.
I know the feeling. I tore one of the Tilt Graphics side blades after installation on my POTC and now the game only has one blade installed (ugh). Need to reorder another $80 set and try again. Also ripped my Pingraffix AC/DC and BSD blades, but not as badly as POTC and was able to fix and tape the ripped part back down. I started bending those metal playfield slider/bracket things inward slightly with a crescent wrench to keep them farther away from the cabinet sides. Frustrating to blow $80 a pop on these things and then rip them doing something as simple as lowering the playfield
I only bent them in very slightly. Not sure if it will help or not, but those metal slider support things were too close to the cabinet sides for my liking. The playfield does sit tight in the cabinet on this game. Need to be very careful when lifting and lowering the playfield or risk damaging $80 side decals. A better approach might be to remove those pieces from the playfield and Dremel off a 1/4” from the end of the round lobe and then sand/smooth it out before reinstalling.
One can also install stick on felt along the sides of the playfield to protect the cabinet sides. I did this one a few of my pins and need to finish the rest
Quoted from Captchaos:
Anyone having issue with the pinballs not being released from the chest after being locked? I checked the mech and it works, during multi ball I see it trying to release but the balls seem stuck. Thoughts?
Yep, same thing keeps happening on my LE. Having a great game and three balls locked in the chest and the game tries to release them but can’t. I turned the game off in frustration the last time it did it and haven’t played it since. Let us know if you find a solution.
Quoted from wheels:
You tried adjusting the release time in the software?
Yes, it didn’t fix the issue. The game can’t release the balls from the chest and it just goes into and infinite ball search. I can see the release arm/gate isn’t retracting far enough to allow the balls to roll out
Need some help guys. I’m putting my POTC back together after have removed the backbox and moved the game into one of the back rooms. There’s one connector I’m not sure where it plugged into on the motherboard behind the metal cover. I’m also not sure which USB connector plugged into which USB port at the bottom of the motherboard and don’t want to accidentally reverse them. One of them has a yellow zip tie around it. If anyone has their backbox open and would mind taking a look and posting a few pics of those specific cables, I’d greatly appreciate it. Starting to miss playing this game!
Quoted from zaphX:
I don’t have mine open at the moment but I found this picture from the last time I did. Not sure if you can find what you need or not.
Zaphx - That was it, all three connections are back where they belong and the game is up and running! Thank you VERY much
I finally fixed my treasure chest issue tonight for good. All you guys with locked balls in the treasure chest not releasing during multi ball, here’s your fix. Basically, the chest is too level and not angled to the left enough for the balls to roll out. The black foam inside the chest is intended to be there and is NOT the issue. The fix is to remove the nut holding down the right side of the chest. Then install a second identical nut on the threads first and tighten it down. Position the chest bracket back over the bolt and install the other nut to secure the chest. You’ve effectively added more left angle to the chest and now the balls will roll out of the chest much easier.
I had slightly magnetized Ninja balls and replaced them with new ones which made no difference, but raising the right side of the chest fixed this issue for good. So nice to lock three balls in the chest multiple times in a game and have them release like they should now. You may have to bend the release arm slightly towards the closed position if the balls are rolling out of the chest and overpowering the hold arm as they will have more weight and momentum. I also turned the left and right lower flipper power settings up to 30 to make treasure chest shots more consistent.
Now I need to figure out how to fix the loose slingshot posts from tearing into the playfield art and chipping it. Maybe replace those thin posts with regular star posts to protect and also cover the existing damage? The screen in the backbox is also won’t stay level and locked in the latches. I’ve tried messing with it over and over and as soon as I install the backglass, it pops out of the latches and sags on one or both sides. Looks like crap and I want this fixed.
This thread is really great with everyone co tributing with mods and fixes. It’s an amazing game when everything works!
Quoted from Pale_Purple:
Thank you for this! I won’t be able to try this for two more weeks but I’m hoping this will solve my problem, as it sounds extremely similar. Hopefully this gets added to the POTC fix page.
I have one question, before you did this fix when you powered on the game would the chest release arm fire 10-20 times even if there was no ball in there?
Glad to help and no, I didn't have the rapid fire issue with my chest release. Hope you figure that one out.
Quoted from ngg:
The issue with my chest lock seems to be the release arm. I can lock three balls in the chest but when multiball starts the balls cannot get past the arm which seems “stuck”
I had the same issue. You might need to turn up the chest coil strength value in the coil settings from 3 to 4 or 5. I also had to fiddle with the metal arm a few times to get the arm to rest just where it needs to be so the balls don't roll/push through the release arm or get stuck in the chest. You can very carefully bend that lock/release arm assembly forward or backward to adjust the position of the arm in closed position. Don't get too aggressive or you might break something. I finally got mine dialed in perfectly, but the extra lock nut on the right side of the chest is what finally fixed the three balls not releasing from the chest at the start of multiball.
I swapped out the skinny sling posts for standard clear starposts and covered up the chipping playfield damage caused by the loose lower left post. I used blue loctite when reinstalling the larger posts and then played about 10 games straight. My LE is finally dialed in perfectly after fixing one issue after another for months. This is one fun and very challenging game when everything is working properly. I could only muster 1.4M tonight, not even close to my GC 2.4M score. The game plays perfectly with the regular star posts, no concerns with swapping them out if you so desire. Time to order some more Mod Couple mods
Quoted from wesman:
They're fairly cheap and an easy install right?
I saw a game out in the wild today, and definitely noticed chipping at those posts.
Did you put washers back down after replacing these or just the star posts?
No washers underneath or on top. The game didn’t come with any whatsoever on the slings
Quoted from indypinhead:
I notice that you went w/ the double ring style star post. Any reason for that?
Good catch, I didn’t even notice that myself! I had those starposts in my parts bin for years and POTC needed them so in they went. I suppose I could change them out again, but I doubt I will. I’m just glad the playfield isn’t being chipped anymore
Quoted from apinballwiz:
Anyone have to remove the back box from Pirates? I recall reading a post of someone having to take the back box off a Dialed In and was a nightmare - was wondering if Pirates was the same. Thanks!
That was me and it was pretty nightmarish. Take lots of detailed photos of the wiring in the backbox to be sure you put it back together correctly. Makes moving the game through narrow spaces a whole lot easier though
What’s the proper fix for the sagging backbox display? I fiddled with mine for a long time and it still sags below the translite about 1/4” exposing the metal frame which doesn’t look good. I’m thinking of propping the display up with something on both sides as a quick fix. Any suggestions? I’m hoping to avoid fabricating parts.
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:
Have you tried pushing up on the bottom of the monitor on the sagging side? Sometimes it doesn't "snap" into the bracket properly.
Yes, it's snapped in properly and the entire display is sagging about 1/4" vertically in the backbox. It needs to be moved up somehow.
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:
I had to prop the right side of my screen temporarily. I plan to make a more permanent fix - here's one that AUKraut suggested in a previous post:
Yes, I saw that and I'm thinking of propping my display on both sides with something similar to fix the issue if there's no other way to move it up vertically. I didn't see any up/down adjustments on the display arm bracket mounting bolts. Maybe I'm missing something
Quoted from Raptor:
I'll look at it again, the next time I have the backglass out.
But it wasn't latched when it came out of the box, thats even with the wooden blocks that prevent the latch from opening in place.
So either JJP didn't get it latched in right, or it managed to come out somehow.
Same here, my display still sags even when fully latched in. I fiddled with it for a good 30 minutes. Will try some small wood blocks to hold it up for now. Frustrating...
Yes! AFM was always my favorite game to play, even before it reached #1 on the Top 100. Fast, furious gameplay with awesome code, sounds, lighting and theme execution. Strobe multiball is bad ass, especially with the upgraded Pinbits strobe light and blackout mod. JJP games can feel too deep, complex and a grind to play at times. AFM gets right into the fast flowing action as soon as you hit the start button and the rules are more simple and straightforward. I’ll probably be selling MB to fund Willy Wonka soon, but AFM and MM aren’t going anywhere!
Which LED flipper button kits are you all installing on your LEs? I’m looking at BriteButtons, but can’t decide on a color. Any recommendations?
Quoted from heni1977:
Those do look nice. Was this the kit you ordered?
I assume it's a plug and play affair? Thanks
Quoted from PinballTilt:
If anyone is looking, I have a few new in box pirates mods to sell. I can't seem to get a response from the store, so my loss is your gain. Got them for Christmas but had already sold my pirates.
Full set of pirates cliffies. Includes the new tia dalma and black Pearl protectors. $100 shipped
Kraken left ramp mod $40 shipped
Pop bumper barrel cap (just one of them) $15 shipped[quoted image]
I’ll take the full set of Cliffy’s. PM me your PayPal address, thanks.
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