(Topic ID: 200141)

JJP Pirates of the Caribbean Official Owners and Fan Club!

By goren1818

4 years ago

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20 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #222 Liar's Dice rules explained! Posted by goren1818 (3 years ago)

Post #644 Rules flow chart Posted by Rbviessman (3 years ago)

Post #1021 How to fix black pearl lamps Posted by Yelobird (3 years ago)

Post #1360 Black Pearl flippers are uneven when in upper position - Fix Posted by evh347 (3 years ago)

Post #2468 Hardware fix for balls getting hung up during multiball. Posted by Pinballpal (2 years ago)

Post #2892 Adjustment for auto plunger not hitting balls cleanly or correctly Posted by Pinballpal (2 years ago)

Post #3974 Deadflip stream from Valentine’s Day 2019. Posted by Tuna_Delight (2 years ago)

Post #4014 POTC trouble shooting guide Posted by zaphX (2 years ago)

Post #4856 Possibly let distributor go through machine and get it tuned in. Posted by dgposter (2 years ago)

Post #6315 Fix for dauntless positioning, canon shots not landing Posted by Yelobird (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#3813 2 years ago

Hey All, just took delivery of my first nib POTC. I have to say, I am VERY disappointing in the Jersey Jack QC. Thankfully the machine arrived physically undamaged. But at first boot-up there were multiple switch errors. And some were not trivial. For example, two of the star map standups were so misaligned that they overlapped. It took an hour to fix this - had to add washers under the screws to change the angle, not easy given the location behind the ship motor. The wire for the Chest opto was mis-routed and was literally wrapped around of one of the star map standups - would have easily been severed after a few good shots to the target. There was an opto that was not attached because the small plastic holder cover fell off (it had been held together with a piece of tape). Another leaf switch was always closed. The Chest lift mech reported a malfunction because it would not stay in the up position. Had to significantly bend the arm on the end-of-stroke cherry switch so the solenoid could travel further and engage the lock. The right flipper solenoid strength was different than the left and could not put the ball in the chest. Oh, and there were no screws for the topper. Four hours later and the pin was playing as it should. All I can say is for a $9500 pin, WTF!!

But love the game!

#4057 2 years ago

Hi, I've noticed that the side rails on my potc are not sticking to the side of the cabinet. There is a small gap between the rail and the cab and if I press I can feel the double-stick tape take hold for a second but then the rail pulls away. Same on both sides. Is this normal? Have others noticed this?

#4089 2 years ago

Been playing our new POTC for a few days now and I've noticed that the Pirate lanes don't seem to work as expected; after completing all 6 lanes and hitting the Pirate standup, it does not award the selected choice. Maybe it's awarding one before or after the one I selected? Very annoying. Am I doing something wrong or maybe I misunderstand how this should work?

#4090 2 years ago
Quoted from arcadem:

Not to seem paranoid but with so many new products and problems experienced by others, I wasn't sure if this was a new one. Guess not because mine is just fine. To be honest, I really haven't had any problems with my POTC at all. Thank goodness and, thanks to you Lloyd and zaphX for being there to help us all out.

You're lucky - I've lost count on the number of issues with mine, some small and some significant. If this were a new car it would be close to lemon status.

#4100 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The lanes change color for the award. For example gold makes them yellow. When you complete PIRATE the pirate stand up by the chest turns yellow. Hitting the target will then award while it is still yellow will award gold.
If you complete PIRATE again before hitting the stand up, the award will change.
Perhaps that is what is happening?
In any event the pirate stand up color should reflect the award currently vended.

I had thought that after the sixth lane was hit, you could change the selected reward before hitting the standup, but the sixth lane locks in the current reward. Makes it rather difficult because the you tend to change the reward accidentally when frantically hitting the button for gold.

1 week later
#4553 2 years ago

Hey all - I've noticed on my POTC that it's almost impossible to make the skill shot into the map hole and even harder if you hit the inner loop first. As the ball rolls around toward the flipper it doesn't ride the outside rail so it tends to be about a 1/2 inch away from the flipper. The shot into the hole requires flipping very early (toward to top of the flipper) and with the gap between the ball and the flipper there's not enough strength and the ball usually lobs into the gold targets. I've tried to make that skill shot hundreds of times and it almost never works. Making the inner loop is not problem. My game is level left/right and pitched a bit steeper than the default. Anyone else notice this with the skill shot?

#4559 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

When you pull the plunger and release, does the autoplunger fork jump? If so, they are contacting each other and robbing your shooting power. Adjust the shooter until it stops.

I'll have to check. Thanks for all the feedback.

2 weeks later
#5530 2 years ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Washer idea worked but boy does it suck having to got with that to correct the issue. Really dumb
On a side note my wheel has become incredibly noisy so putting in mod couples wheel fix. Just an FYI on this fix you need a 1/16” Allen wrench and white lithium grease. Neither item is included with the kit and I didn’t know I needed them so I got stuck part way through and cannot finish til I get them. Yeah I know who doesn’t have an Allen wrench. Well I have one but can’t find the one I need but I definitely don’t have any grease
Just positing this so others wont end up like me ie game apart and unplayable due to being unprepared

I had a bunch of allen wrenches but nothing bellow 3/32, so I had to borrow from a friend. Would have been nice if the tool was mentioned in the website details. Honestly, I did not find the kit made the disk notably quieter.

#5534 2 years ago
Quoted from RPZ:

So which cliffys are people installing? Ramp ball drop ones? Even though ball drops on the end?

I purchased the full set from Cliff but so far I've only installed the ball drops (super easy). I want to install the Tortuga hole next but the metal deflector needs to be removed and the two screws are obscured by the pop-bumper skirt and I can't figure out how to remove the unit? How do you remove the spinning Jack - seems like his hands are blocking the tiny screw on top. Anyone done this?

#5707 2 years ago

Now if someone could figure out how to mod the trunk to open and close like JJP had originally intended!

#5709 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

That mod would kick ass and I would totally buy it!
Seems doable. The signal to open/close the trunk is the same one that runs the fork.

Exactly! I think the complexity would be the solenoids to raise/lock and unlock. Unlike Houdini where the trunk only needs to remain open for a few seconds (temporarily energized coil), this would require a locking mech, and with limited space that could be tricky.

#5745 2 years ago
Quoted from brucipher:

I haven't looked too closely at the chest in my machine... Does the chest itself still have hinges to open/close and it's just propped open, or would a whole new chest be needed?

No hinge, just a metal bracket.

#5834 2 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

I decided to keep my NIB POTC LE and finally opened the carton and set it up this past weeked ... so I'm now officially in the club and loving the game!!!
For those keeping track, my game is LE # 224 and was built on 1/28/19 and other than a bunch of typical NIB adjustments and minor fixes, the only outstanding items I have to address yet are a poor screen right side hardware latch (screen sags as a result) and a really noisy spinning disk (which I know is somewhat typical too). Oh, and my topper is missing its mounting hardware (screws and plugs).
Hooked up a Polk PSW10 subwoofer directly to the game's CPU audio output too and the bass is now rockin' - SO NICE to finally get to enjoy this game at home rather than on route!

I have 225 - also with noisy spinning disk and missing topper hardware! No issue with screen latch but lots of other small and not-so-small issues. JJP has since sent me the missing hardware and I've installed the Mod Couple disk silencer kit although it's hard to know how much it helped.

How many others have noticed that the side-rail double-stick tape give out and the rails don't remain tight to the box?

#5865 2 years ago
Quoted from Sandeep:

I just got my potc le today. Out of the box:
1. Camera won’t initialize (I’ve reseated the cables and still doesn’t. Any ideas guys?)
2. Ship upper playfield right flipper flips but not as high as left flipper. (Not sure how to adjust flipper travel)
It plays otherwise mint. Amen

I've also noticed the right flipper on the Pearl has a shorter travel but I think that's by design?

#5866 2 years ago

Last night while playing I noticed the "X" standup on the Pearl was not registering (makes it really hard to get bonus multipliers). After investigating, I found the "Load" cannon standup was also dead. So both standups flanking the canon door aren't working and neither is showing up as a fault on the switch matrix. In fact, I can't even find the left Load Canon switch on the screen? Any suggestions on how to diagnose/fix this?

I'm assuming I'll need to remove the Pearl so I started by clipping the half dozen tie-wraps to free the Pearl wiring harness from the rest of the rat's nest, but haven't yet removed the playfield.

#5868 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Sounds like the classic broken wire/solder joint under the Pearl. Several write ups and pics of what to look for here in the thread.

Thanks. I need to pull the ship anyway to install cliffy around map targets. I'll look for broken wires.

#5926 2 years ago

Hey all - I installed a cliffy around the Map hole/targets and now the map shot is nearly impossible. The ball jumps up just slightly (from the cliffy) and deflects off the back plate and bounces out rather than down. I would say one in ten shots goes in. Not sure what to do here. Maybe try a different back deflector plate? The one over the Tortuga hole comes up and over, maybe that would work? Anyone else install the cliffy and having issues?

I just looked at the parts list and interestingly the "Snubber" bracket for both the map and tortuga holes is the same part even though they are obviously different on my game.

#5937 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Did you overtighten the connections over the cliffy? Too tight can make the cliffy bow VERY slightly and cause issues. It needs to have no gap between the cliffy and the playfield.

There's no gap, the double-stick tape holds it flat. As suggested above I could just remove the cliffy, but before I go that route I may try a few other deflector brackets like this one https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-8250-01.

#5984 2 years ago
Quoted from sulli10:

Where can you get Silicon washers?

I use these as plastic protectors but they might work below the post also. Just not sure if 3/4" is too large? https://www.pinballlife.com/clear-petg-fender-washers.html

#6135 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

You had to have an installation problem with the map hole cliffy. I just finished this installation yesterday and map hole is just as shootable as it was before the install. My guess is you over-tightened the post or the screw on the back side and it caused the metal to raise up a little OR you didn't get the orientation of the ball deflector right when you put it back on. There's some play in it and you have to hold the angle while you tighten the screw on the left, then the post on the right.
Do you have a picture of the install? That might help to see what the problem is.

I was busy with other projects over the weekend but I hope to have time to remove the Pearl and see what I can do later this week. I did notice the cliffy is no longer sticking to the playfield, so the tape must have given out - but even if I push it back down, the shot is still mostly impossible. You may be right about the deflector needing adjustment. I also ordered a couple other deflector styles from Marco which should arrive in a day or two. One way or another I'm sure I can get it working.

#6137 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The deflector design there is fine, replacing it with another style will not help, maybe just small angle adjustment is needed. My guess is you over-tightened the screws and posts and it tweaked the thin metal, causing it to raise up. It's a very common mistake with cliffies as most people think tighter=better, but with cliffies just tight enough is preferred to over-tight since metal tweaking becomes an issue if the pressure on them is too tight.

One of the first problems I had to fix on my POTC was two of the Star Map standups were so misaligned that they were overlapping. I've also found other parts that don't seem correctly aligned. If I didn't know better I'd say the playfield had no dimple marks for the screws during assembly and the staff just eye-balled everything. I'm exaggerating, but what I'm getting at is my map hole deflector is probably not installed the same as yours - could be 1/32" closer or farther or left or right or angled slightly and that combined with just the slightest jump from the cliffy causes the ball to bounce out rather than in. Wonder if I could record with my phone and step through video to see exactly what's happening?

Thinking about this, it could even be the small map 2 cliffy that's the cause - if it's not flush against the wood it may be introducing some additional bounce.

#6139 2 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

What do you mean by "using an activator"?

The cliffy's come with a small alcohol swab to clean the playfield surface - I think that's what vireland is referring to.

#6143 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

iPhone slow-mo is endlessly useful for diagnosing these issues, so yeah, do that. There's quite a bit of play in that deflector before you tighten it down, so it may just be tightened 5 degrees off angle.

Not an iphone user lol but my s10 has slow-mo video mode, I'll give it a try and post back.

#6306 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Following....got the exact same issue, all my cannon shots hit the back of the Dauntless....

I found with mine that the Dauntless can move about 1/4" back on its rocking mech. It tends to slide forward due to the playfield slope but you may be able to add washers to keep it in the back position.

#6313 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Okay, POTC manual shows those two rear Dauntless spacers to be #8-32 5/16” x 1-1/2” m-f. Marco has a #8-32 1/4” x 1-1/4” m-f but no 5/16”. Looking for a 5/16” version of that Marco spacer now so that it is sturdy enough to support the ship and brings the Dauntless 1/4” closer to the backboard....

I actually wish I could push my Dauntless back a bit because in the normal forward position the bowsprit touches the back of the Maelstrom diverter coil mech when the ship rocks to the left. Also, in the forward position the lower part of the hull does not seem to line up with the upper deck part, so it looks wrong to me. But unfortunately the canon shot misses if I push the ship back. And fyi, I googled what the pointy part of the bow (prow?) is called - the bowsprit, lol.

#6356 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

iPhone slow-mo is endlessly useful for diagnosing these issues, so yeah, do that. There's quite a bit of play in that deflector before you tighten it down, so it may just be tightened 5 degrees off angle.

I finally got around to fixing the issue with the ball bouncing out rather than into the map hole. I replaced the deflector with the extended version, adjusted the deflector position, bent the cliffy slightly to keep it flush, and applied new double-stick adhesive. Not sure which of those resolved the problem but the ball drops perfectly now. Side note; when I originally installed the cliffy it was lifting slightly on the right side because as it turns out, the original factory playfield protector around the hole was not installed well and peeled up (I've since removed it).

I also added clear washers to the base of the sling posts (second pic) - not sure if this is necessary but it was an easy precaution against the narrow posts damaging the playfield over time. Also added larger clear washer below the leading corner of the plastic to protect against impacts.
20190328_184328 (resized).jpg20190328_190325 (resized).jpg

#6361 2 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Where did you find the clear washers, I think I like that look better than the star posts.


#6363 2 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Where did you get the new ball deflector? Do you have the part number?

Ordered from JJP; Snubber Brkt, Extended LPN 10-3001-01

#6364 2 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

What size did you go with? 3/4?

Yes, 3/4. But I'd suggest ordering all three sizes, never know when you'll need these

#6372 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I went with Kraken, lockdown coins, and canon.

I'd add in the railings for the Dauntless.

#6409 2 years ago

I recently started having an issue with the post on the left orbit sticking and not retracting into the playfield. I recall reading others having this issue but no resolution. In my case it seems the post shaft is binding in the solenoid sleeve. If I rotate it slightly it moves freely. If I rotate it a bit more it will start binding/sticking again. Any thoughts or suggestions?

#6498 2 years ago
Quoted from Demwyn:

I got one of these installed. It‘s great.

What exactly is the need for this? Is it that the ball bounces back from hitting the Dauntless on a canon shot and can damage the underside of the Pearl?

Quoted from heni1977:

And those screws through the T nuts I am not sure about. If some one can take a peek under theirs before me and give a response. You could loosen the screws and then just re tighten them when you are done moving it.

I've lifted mine a couple times and the screws don't seem to be an issue, but I keep a rubber pad on the top of the lift so the screws can sink into that a bit.

#6623 2 years ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

1. Have 1 lightboard that is DOA. upon inspection the cat5 cable running to it was waaay to tight. Replaced it with one that was longer to test but still did not work.
2. Left spinner by depths light does not light. When running through the test it does turn on but display says its on a unused circuit (one of the ones close to the end)
3. Ball shooter tip looks like a cat used it as a chew toy for a couple hours before it was put on.
4. Couple targets on upper playfield are too close together causing both to go off when one is hit. Easy fix adjust switch
5. Playfield is super tight in cabinet. When reinserting playfield aside from it being tight there seems to be more resistance the last bit then there should be. I made sure the harness on the right was not getting pinched and the harness on the left nothing to pinch on. What am I doing wrong?
6. Playfield is not hanging from the hangers correctly. Right side sits in slot left side sits just a smidge above lockdown bar. May have something to do with issue 5
7. There are bumps and divots on the spinner not sure if they are supposed to be there. does not seem like bubbles though so idk. Oh and spinner seems loud as [email protected]#$. Might look into the silencing kit but personally feel like it should be quieter from factory
8. Think I might be having the chest lock issue. dont know the rules yet though so maybe I'm doing it wrong. When lock is available to me it seems like I have to hit it super hard in there to get the ball to make a U-turn. Had one instance where ball wasnt released form chest at end of game. then following game machine got confused and released both balls after locking the first.
9. You should not be able to light fuse until doing the spinners and hitting load cannon correct? had a couple times where ball when past the gate and just fell to playfield. Dont think this is correct.
10. Noticed in the software there was 1 bulb that did not test and when I looked where software show me bulb is there is a spotlight and not a gi.
I'm sure there's more but super tired. Thanks again for any help ( a couple of the issues I know are in the Zaphx guide)

Wow, that's lot of issues for NIB! I stand by my statement that JJP has serious QC issues. Anyway, for #4 I had a similar problem with the star map standups. I used a couple washers under one of the two screws to angle the touching standups away from each other. For #7, mine and another POTC the disk had small bumps or divots, I'm guessing this is normal. Congrats on the new pin!

#6637 2 years ago

There's one thing I still can't get working on my POTC and that's the annoying sticking action button. I've tried pretty much everything - bending the angle of the switch extension, removing the rough edge on the inner button shaft, adjusting and polishing the screw on the bottom, and adding lubrication. But the button continues to stick occasionally. Unless someone has another suggestion I guess I'll have to replace the entire unit and switch.

#6641 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Just replace it with a stern button. I just did. Cheap. Simple. Effective.

Do you have a part# or link? Thanks!

#6661 2 years ago
Quoted from thc666:

the bubble is what i'm talking about no chipping yet, knock on wood. i just cleaned this machine not even 2 weeks ago.

Same here, mylar was lifting on the right side. Just remove it and add the cliffy - problem solved! On a side note, seems like your back defector is installed at a really strange angle - not perpendicular to the hole? But I guess if the ball drops down then it's fine.

#6662 2 years ago
Quoted from anathematize:

I feel bad for the operators of the one we have on location. Its been nothing but a nightmare to support and we still don't have a properly rocking Black Pearl (i think the wiring harness was too tight and just broke) or a canon that can score a direct hit on the dauntless (an issue that looks like its been solved earlier in this thread). The Malestorm diverter has also recently started tossing balls right out of the ramp back onto the playfield if the ball hits it with too much speed. Likely a minor adjustment needed on that one.

I was thinking about this the other night - just how difficult it must be to keep this pin playing well on locations. Can't remember the last time I played mine without having to remove the glass for something, and that's in a home environment. I get that with any pin things go south, it's the nature of the beast, but my two Williams from the 90's are usually rock solid. Maybe it's a sign of the times and how things are manufactured these days. Regardless, I wonder if POTC doesn't get the love it deserves because when on location it's likely not playing 100 percent.

#6706 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

But it will obscure the star map? Why would you want to lose that? It's integrated into the gameplay...

The star field really isn't necessary - when you hit the star map targets (assuming none of the movies are lit), a playfield shot will flash white for a second. That shot will be the mystery pictogram depicted on the star field.

#6756 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Based on all the machines I’ve seen, I’d say the left/right is intentional.

I concur, the ship rocks more to the left than the right. Otherwise all the balls would go overboard Arrrrrr.

#6761 2 years ago

I never even opened the JJP balls and instead went with these from Marco. I use them in all my pins without any magnetization issues.

Edit: just realized these are the same as Pinzzz recommended.

#6785 2 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Got it!
So I did the "full run" for the ship diagnositcs and it just rocked back and forth.
It said the slowest motor speed = 5.
I wasn't sure it was going to stop running so I decided to end it.
It seems happy...

Got the same results when I ran the ship calibration, slowest motor speed = 5. The test does eventually timeout and stop.

#6800 2 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

If it's not too much to ask..
Can I get a quick recap of where you have used mylar to include the two squares as well as the two "odd-shaped" pieces?

Mine came with two half-circle mylar pieces which I placed in front of the slings.

#6812 2 years ago
Quoted from May:

Hi Guys, I was having a problem with my canon that was not line up, now i think that the problem is the Black Pearl and not the dauntless.
I see damage on the cabinet from the ship. Also, I see a big gap between the mini playfield and ramp.
Anyone have an idea? before i do something wrong.

Looks like your BP is not seated all the way forward on the supporting bracket posts although I'm not sure how that could be possible since the shoulder bolt holding the BP from sliding back does not allow for any movement and that gap is pretty large. I would hope the issue is not that the brackets are installed in the wrong place, that would suck.

Have you ever removed the BP?

#6840 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

I have to ask. Does anyone else find the canon shot extremely hard to hit? Any tips for making that shot easier? Maybe I need to make an adjustment on my game.

If the Pearl and Dauntless are correctly lined up the shot is not difficult. Once you know the timing you should hit it almost every time.

#6842 2 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

How does one know?

If the Dauntless is too far to the left or right, you'll never make the shot.

#6844 2 years ago

I'm sure this has been mentioned in one of the six thousand eight hundred and forty three posts in this thread, but regarding cliffy protectors, along with the kit designed for POTC, I would also recommend the universal slot protectors for under the wire-form inlane drops. http://www.passionforpinball.com/switchslot.htm

#6845 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Oh, I just meant hitting the load cannon shot on the Pearl. I can't even make that yet lol.

Right, takes a bit of practice but basically hit the spinner orbit a couple times to light the Load targets, cradle the ball on left flipper, shoot the left Load, cradle again, and quick flip with the ship listing to the left and it should go into the cannon door. Easier said than done depending on how fast the ship is rocking

#6887 2 years ago
Quoted from drfrightner:

Thanks. The video aspect we're making custom CGI FX for it... its going to be like no mod you've ever seen before. We have created CGI FX for Marvel comics including Spider-Man dark ride and Incredible Hulk. So doing this is not that hard... we want to make the video part look like it was created for the game not an after thought. Obviously we can't sell the video but maybe we could put it up for download so you can snag it free. LOL
What we will offer is something that will totally replace the star map. The screen is going to be as big as the star map itself and the frame will be 3D printed. Once we create something we like we'll mold it so we can make multiples. We'll hand paint each one.
The screen we're adding has the ability for you to install any mini SD card you want, so you can play whatever video you want on it.
We'll have our video down, to show everyone in about 7 days.
The mod itself we'll have within that same time period.
Going to be pretty bad ass but FINALLY we can put to bed all the discussion about movie assets on the game.
We're also thinking about doing the same thing for ACDC, we'll make a stage with LED lights blinking. In the middle of that stage will be a massive screen, showing clips of the bad itself playing.
First things first... we're going do this Pirates.

Will the video on the SD card play continuously or will it somehow be triggered by game events?

#6888 2 years ago

On the subject of what parts came with this pin, mine came with a spare set of sling plastics and rubbers, and also mylar playfield protectors for the slings. Was this standard?

#7075 2 years ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

My action button on the lockdown bar has begun to stick down after just one week. Can I replace it with a stern button and is switch over easy to install?

JJP sent me a new button which worked way better than the original (so far). If the problem comes back I'll try the Stern.

#7245 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Yeah you could be right. Wider not taller. Either way the fix is the same; adjust the leafs.
As a side note, post passing seems easier with the star posts.

I added 3/4 clear washers under the standard posts which raised up the sling rubber just slightly. That combined with Titans on the flippers makes post passing pretty much impossible

I also was able to bump the post on the right and get the ball to the end of the flipper for a back-flip into Tortuga - can't seem to do that any longer either. But a harder game is just a bigger challenge

#7295 2 years ago
Quoted from fossmin:

So I had the craziest pinball shot (it wasn't really a shot, as it came off the Black Pearl) last night, than I have had in 40 plus years of playing pinball. The ball was on the Pearl. The ball was on the left side of the deck and moving fast to the right and the Pearl deck falls right. The ball goes flying off the right side. It happened so fast I don't know what the ball bounced off. It could have been the side rail, the playfield or a pop bumper. The ball bounces high and lands on top of the shooter lane wire form. Not inside the wire form, but on top of it. It rolls the whole length of the wire form and lands right in the shooter lane. The game detected the ball in the shooters lane and served it back into play. It was funny and super cool at the same time. What a game!

Twice now I've had the ball fall off the right side of the BP and bounce onto the shooter rails - surprised me also the first time!

#7297 2 years ago

Earlier in this thread I mentioned that my left orbit ball lock post was sticking in the up position. Turned out the plastic post was not centered in the playfield hole and was rubbing slightly. The fix required removing the solenoid bracket and filing the four mounting holes so they were oblong, allowing me to shift the bracket just a bit. Not a big deal but unfortunately two of the four screws had been over tightened from the factory and stripped out the wood. Hopefully the two screws will hold for now but eventually I'll have to fix that.

#7363 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Agree! Hopefully this is added. If theres anything I would like to see added to the code at this point its polish in terms of more sounds, callouts, video clips, fan fare, additional choreography, etc.

Agreed. My biggest complaint about the callouts is when a chapter is completed - no callout or visual, it's like a non-event.

And while on the subject of the chapters, that code could use improvement (imo). As it stands, they seem to be nothing more than a time-suck on the way to wizard modes. I'm not saying it's not fun to shoot for all the characters, but they seem undervalued score wise. And you don't even need to complete them! It would have been so much more challenging and satisfying getting to a mini-wizard if you had to complete the 5 chapters (redoing any you missed).

#7365 2 years ago
Quoted from DerGoetz:

I got most of the game figured out by now.... But what are skulls, their values and their bonuses?

Skull indicates you've qualified that movie/chapter. Each movie has a playfield shot. The chapter is selected randomly.

#7370 2 years ago
Quoted from thc666:

There is a call out when u complete the chapter....collect gold.

That's true, and it says "Times Up" when you fail. But I still feel it deserves something more.

#7373 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

He says "chapter complete" when you finish one. It can get drowned out by other sounds.

Not sure I've ever heard that - I'll have to listen more carefully.

#7428 2 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

So depth cliffy anyone know that just snap on I cant get my sausage fingers in there lol

Definitely tricky (and a bit painful for the fingers)! I added some double-stick tape on the inner vertical surface to make sure it stays in place.

#7429 2 years ago

I totally agree with the consensus here that WW was underwhelming. After the controversy of DI's theme, and spinning-disc-gate and trunk-gate of POTC (not to mention production delays), I feel like JJP needed WW to be their next WOZ. Sadly I don't think they nailed it. I'm sure it will be a blast to flip (like all JJP pins), but not on par with WOZ or POTC.

#7556 2 years ago

One thing I'm hoping gets fixed in the next code update is the BP cannon gate logic. As it stands, the gate closes when any switch on the main playfield is triggered, and when you return to the BP you need to hit any switch (on the BP) to reopen the gate. To me this doesn't make sense, just the act of getting back on the BP should reopen the gate - the VUK or the ramp opto should be the trigger.

#7560 2 years ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

This is probably because for the gate to stay open a coil is being drawn the whole time. It's probably done to save some voltage or coil wear.

Yes, I would agree. I'm just suggesting that the code could reopen the gate when the ball is back on the Pearl based on the VUK (behind the Pearl) or the opto on the ramp up.

#7858 2 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

Side note, the one photo for the Black Pearl Cannon Shield was really horrible quality. I installed mine last night, (really just a matter of fitting over two of the existing Chapter Select plastic screws) and figured I'd take some photos for anyone interested in getting this.
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=POTCCS_UK[quoted image][quoted image]

I installed the cannon shield today and just wanted to mention that it is not entirely compatible with the Mod Couple Pirate Cannon mod.
If the cannon mod is installed as intended with the curved plastic aligned with the curve of the metal side-wall, then the cannon shield will not fit behind it. I had to pull off the cannon mod (not easy given the thick clear double-stick adhesive), and shift it about a 1/2 inch away from the ship to make room for the shield. It looks ok this way but the cannon mod has a horizontal "wood" part that I'm assuming represents the cannon door in an open position, and shifting it to the left makes it look less attached to the side of the ship.

#7959 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Personally, I'm definitely not using metal washers under the posts. Either I'm going to find some clear PTFE or whatever washers that have a similar diameter, maybe I'll entertain mylar (although this seems problematic due to providing very little resistance against the clamping force of a screw and it will likely pucker up when cranked down even a little). I think a silicone, fiber, rubber, neoprene or even maybe vinyl washer would be way better suited if we're trying to keep a sharp circular edge from indenting into a soft playfield. The again, I don't see why these need to be clamped down so much.

Here's a pic with clear washers. I'm also using a larger clear washer to protect the leading edge of the plastic.

20190328_190325 (resized).jpg

#7961 2 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Looks good and the size looks perfect as well. I would say it's an exact size to my silver washers or incredibly close.
What material is it and where did you get them?
Also, what kind of work/time are we talking to knock this out?

I purchased them from PinballLife but I'm sure you could get them from Marco or even a local hardware store. Takes about 5 minutes to install. I always keep a bunch on hand in various sizes, very useful.

#7962 2 years ago

I mentioned in a prior post that for those who have the Mod Couple Cannon mod and are considering installing the Cannon Shield, you'll need to remove and reinstall the Cannon mod so that it clears the shield. Honestly, I never had any problem with balls going under the ship so I'm not sure why I even installed the shield. It's rather overpriced considering it's nothing more than a flimsy piece of plastic. But whatever. Here's a pic. Notice how the "wooden" door no longer touches the side of the ship (mini playfield).

20190423_154710 (resized).jpg
#7965 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

I purchased them from PinballLife but I'm sure you could get them from Marco or even a local hardware store. Takes about 5 minutes to install. I always keep a bunch on hand in various sizes, very useful.

I should mention that these washers are most likely punched from a sheet of PETG and therefore may have a very small lip on one side. I would suggest making sure the lip is facing up so as not to dig into the playfield. Or just file down the lip.

#7969 2 years ago
Quoted from Breger1:

Really wanting an LE, realizing that's not going to be possible. on the SE, does white GI lighting really make a huge difference? And the 72-light starfield on the back panel? I can live without the powder coat and invisiglass and can add a shaker motor.

Imo you'll be fine without the RGB GI. As for the starfield, definitely not necessary; when you shoot the Star Map (with no skulls lit), another shot on the playfield will flash white for a second - that's all you need to look for. The starfield is also supposed to give a representation of that shot but honestly, it's not worth trying to figure it out lol! For example, if the P in the pirates lane flashes white, the starfield will kinda sort of draw the letter P.

#7970 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It's a thing. I've seen it happen on 3 different machines, more than once per.
My solution was to fill that hole with wire loom so the ball can't settle there as easily.[quoted image]

Your solution is ideal - not only does it stop the ball from getting stuck, but it also keeps the wires from rubbing as the ship rocks. Very nice!

#7980 2 years ago
Quoted from rs812:

Why not trim back the shield?

I considered that but decided it was just easier to reposition the cannon. The plastic is very thin and could probably be cut by scoring it multiple times with an x-acto knife.

#8052 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

For this old guy, that's the only drawback. DEFINITELY FEELS like a widebody if you're a 50+ nudger/bumper. On long games, my hands will get tingly from 20-30 minutes of non stop abuse and I have to shake them out between balls. I only have this issue on widebodies.

Funny you should mention this. I'm also in the 50+ group and I find POTC is so heavy that after playing for a bit I get lazy. Watching the ball head sdtm my brain says "SLIDE!" but my arms say, "NOPE" lol.

#8054 2 years ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

I have my game on low friction sliders on a hard floor. Given the lane geometry I slide to the right way more than the left so my only problem is moving the game back to center. A lot

Originally my pins were on carpet and I used furniture glides under the legs which made slides saves and shifts really easy. But now the floor has been replaced with fake wood composite vinyl and I use heavy duty felt pads under the legs which seem much harder to slide.

#8060 2 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Let me ask here.
Do "most" of you install those sling mylars (ya know, the half moon thingys) ...
I particular don't want to as that's like my favorite action on a pin and I think it would be affected by this -- even if only marginally.

Ugh, slings are the worst! Vertical ball movement = good. Horizontal ball movement = bad!

#8079 2 years ago
Quoted from iloveplywood:

Hey owners a couple of quick questions. I currently have two machines a TNA and a BM66. My wife loves the BM66 and plays it every day but overall I think the TNA is too intense for her (she also hates the "you failed," at the end for some some reason, seriously she keeps bringing this up). I'm thinking she will like pirates as she loves toys in games, but it's hard to know without playing it. Any thoughts on the intensity scale of pirates rated on the TNA to BM66 scale?

I think rating something by intensity is subjective, but TNA is by far a faster game than Pirates. Everything about TNA is designed to make it intense! I'd say BM66 is also slightly faster than Pirates but only because it's a standard body vs wide body.

#8191 2 years ago

Here's a pretty good set of rules (including character perks)

#8254 2 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Are you referring to PETG washers?
I'm asking because I happen to know they are working very well without any signs of wear to the playfield underneath them after weeks of testing.

I checked mine yesterday and can also confirm no damage from the PETG washers. I'm using 3/4"

#8263 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Do you have a pic? Wondered how much they stick out around the posts.
Others reported mylar also does not cause damage, but I am weary of that because it seems like such little protection.

Here's a pic I posted a few days ago.

#8328 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I think very few POTC owners are interested in parting with them.

Mine has been so cruel I might sell it! I consider myself a decent player but this pin is just brutal. I can play 20 games in a row and not put up over 150k. The left outlane is the worst - reminds me of Firepower and every other pin with a curved side-rail for the kickback that just sucks the balls down. Not uncommon for me to have a first ball under 1500 points. That's how bad I suck at this pin!

Kidding about selling it

#8330 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Huh. This is my go to game when others have been kicking my butt. I find I can nudge save probably 80% of the right outlane drains. Left side, not so much.

I know! The consensus seems to be that it's not difficult to put up mil+ games. Yet I can't seem to do it. Maybe it's the way mine is tuned or maybe I just suck lol!

#8332 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I find I can nudge save probably 80% of the right outlane drains.

Out of curiosity, for the right outlane save, do you have rubber on one or both of the posts. If only one, is it the upper or lower?

#8333 2 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Just physically mode the left lane like others have already done.
You’ll diminish the challenge AND score higher! =P

See, that's the thing, I don't want to diminish the challenge. I'd rather just complain about it

#8344 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Yes that post - code calls for it to raise at times to try to feed the upper flipper.

Hmmmm, I've never seen that happen.

#8363 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Humm.. ok, would be nice to know any conditions. I mean, I'm no pinball god, but I've definitely gone through many different chapters with many different character combinations and not once has that post popped up.

I thought the same thing - never noticed the post going up except to lock the ball (from behind). But now that I'm looking for it, it does definitely happen. Really not necessary as you can always shoot the chest to feed the flipper, but the post is a cool feature. Amazing that after months of play I'm still learning new things about this pin!

1 week later
#8761 2 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

On the subject of SDTM after chapter select, I reported this to JJ via their support form and received an immediate reply from Steve that he would pass this to the programming team. Also my game came with a cracked sling plastic and they are sending a new pair since I did not want to start replacing with spares on day 1. I asked them for some washers under posts and they are sending me those as well. Their support has been exemplary.

That's good news. Just a note, you can always double-flip to release the ball from the star map. If only one chapter is available the release will work anytime (immediately). If there's more than one chapter available you have to wait until the random selection is complete. Either way, when you double-flip to release, the magnet always seems to pull the ball up and prevent SDTM from happening, at least that's the way it works on my setup.

#9072 2 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

For fun, since we want to continue discussing SDTM for the Chapter Select (and yes, I'll take note of how often this happens to me as well once I'm playing).
What is your level/pitch at?
I'm trying to understand if it's more susceptible at a shallow or steeper incline? Though I would think it would just matter left to right what your level is as far as SDTM.
Are you "positive" your game is 100% level?
The games I did play ... I cannot remember one instance of SDTM from Chapter Select ... and my game is NOT level yet.

Step away from this thread for 4 days and miss 300+ posts!

Anyway, my incline is steeper than recommended. Pretty sure I have the front legs at the minimum extension and the rear legs at close to max (with some minor horizontal adjustment for my uneven floor). Also, I rarely have a SDTM from the chapter select, and when it does happen I usually slide-save. But it's still annoying.

1 week later
#9410 2 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Gotcha. So when purchasing a used game you can't really trust the number of games started correct?

Correct. That's why there are so many HUO pins with descriptions like "purchased a year ago but has less than 200 plays", right!

#9608 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Wait...whoa....stop....you can ACTUALLY read the star map??? Do tell. I have never seen any recognizable pattern.

The star map is mostly just eye candy. When you shoot the star map with no chapters enabled (no skulls), another shot somewhere on the playfield will flash white for a second - that's the shot you need to make to collect the constellation. Once you know the shot, you can kinda see the pattern in the stars. For example, if the "P" lane flashes white, the stars will vaguely draw the letter P.

#9669 2 years ago

Has anyone installed the Mezel Mods illuminated cannon mod? Looks really cool and I love that it flashes when the cannon fires! Anyone have pics or better yet, a video?

#9686 2 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Doesn’t the chest already have interactive lighting? I swear mine flashes red inside when it’s ready for a ball to be locked. I’m assuming this is what your referring to.

I've never seen this happen, maybe I have an LED that's out? Always annoys me that there's no obvious indication that the chest is primed to lock.

#9802 2 years ago
Quoted from wvpinball:

I was finally able to locate a Davy Jones figurine for my CE. Thanks David yelobird for the detailed modification instructions! I absolutely love the looks of this, especially on the CE version.[quoted image]

Can you provide info on the figure? Looks really nice!

#9976 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

"FUCKING I!" is what I hear her yell from the other room.


I refuse to make the game easier, I'd rather just gripe. My son (who is a really good player), makes the left and right outlane saves look easy - I've seen him do it 4 or 5 times in a game with no tilt warnings.

#10123 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I am still confused on this issue with mine. I swear I'll hit an inner loop shot from launch no problem and then the very next shot will hit the BP entry for no reason I can tell. The shot is pretty much identical, same speed, etc. I've had it where I was on my 4th or 5th loop and the same thing happens. Yeah, I know if the shot is soft it will get pulled into the BP but these are clean, good speed shots. I'll check the optos when I get in there eventually to do all the other work.

I totally agree! One of these days I'll have to pull the BP and see why this is happening. I'm guessing there's a bug in the code and the magnet is stopping the orbit (what else could it be).

#10124 2 years ago
Quoted from drfrightner:

Check out this update... going to add several more clips from the film but just making some custom cg fx. Also threw in something for Road Show.

Too bad the PinLightShield board is no longer available - could have used that to trigger video clips based on physical game events.

#10374 2 years ago

Jack has replaced Tortuga Tom!

20190609_173948 (resized).jpg
#10441 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Just wondering if the neco series 1 jack will work for the spinning pop upgrade?

Yes, any of the neco 7" figures should work.

#10485 2 years ago
Quoted from statsdoc:

Is anyone else seeing Arr Frenzy as a somewhat unbalanced part of scoring? My kids are racking up scores where the Arr Frenzy mode is contributing more than 60% of their points for the game. Now the whole family is just aiming for it and ignoring the rest of the game. It is making the game less interesting in some ways.

We changed the Arrrr Frenzy setting so it doesn't become available until the fifth round of Pirate lanes (by default it's available in the third).

#10548 2 years ago

This pin is one of the most physical I've ever played! Between the left and right outlane saves, the slide-save battle against center drains, and the fact that it weights a ton, I may be getting too old to play pinball!

#10631 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Had some nice prototype items sitting in my mailbox today[quoted image]

The BP door behind the gold targets looks fantastic! Will this be available on your new site?

#10714 2 years ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

I have a hole in my barrel at the side but nothing in it. To take off the barrel I had to release the two screws in the top and it came off.

There's no reason to remove the screws on top to remove the barrel. The hole in the side leads to a small allen-head screw that locks the spinning barrel to the motor shaft. I don't recall the hex size.

#10771 2 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Had to make a slight adjustment to the black pearl upper deck mod. Currently it is installed with double tape, making it an install and never take off affair. I guess you can put new tape in....
Anyway, harryhoudini has his new cabin dress up under the poop deck coming which we’re all excited about. But couldn’t wait to install this upper deck. So what do I do, since I can’t get to the stuff around the pearl’s spinners once I put the upper deck on?
Decided to drill through this new mod so I have some screws at the top to remove and put back the upper deck as much as I want. Not quite as pretty as intended but you have to look for the screws to worry about it.
Anyway you will need
2x 25mm (1”) screws which are 2.5mm thick. Black is preferable
2 x 1/2” spacers

It always bothered me that this mod was semi permanent, given that there's mechs below it. Your solution seems really good. Can you provide a link to the spacers and screws? Thanks!

1 week later
#10944 2 years ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

What about ramps?

Shannon over at JJP priced out the ramps for me - expensive!

Maelstrom Ramp (fully populated) $254.99
Mini PF Access Ramp (fully populated) $505.12

Maelstrom (ramp/decal only) $121.90
Mini PF Access (ramp/decal only) $178.77

#10958 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

The jjPotC tech thread has pictures for the map hole and also how to get the hardware off the tortuga hole (to tighten the deflector, but it's the same process you need to do to add the cliffy). The one for "The Depths" just clips on.


#10962 2 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

Woof. A bit more than I expected... I wonder what parts come with it, for population.

For that price I would expect the entire upper playfield to come with it!

#11096 2 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Looks great , in better condition than my Hobbit certificate that my dog ate in half

He say's he didn't do it.

#11099 2 years ago
Quoted from Zora:

It was mentioned shortly here that sometimes a book appears on the backbox, where the status of the extra ball items are shown. I have nit found any description of the items to collect and how to view the current status without popping away. Could somebody please describe what to collect and how to see the status im between.

You may be referring to the Star Map "mystery" shots. If you shoot the Star Map when no chapters are qualified, a single shot will flash white for a second and the star field (LE and CE only) will draw a symbol representing the same shot. For example, the star field will draw the letter P if the P lane is the necessary shot. Anyway, each time you make one of these shots the star constellation book will be displayed to indicate the bonus has been collected. Collect enough and Extra Ball is lit.

#11107 2 years ago
Quoted from Zora:

Thanks for your feedback. Does this mean that I only have to shoot into the Star Map (when not activated) several times to collect enough items for the book or is it necessary to shoot the indicated symbol afterwards?

You need to shoot the indicated symbol to collect the constellation item.

#11182 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

I love what you're doing, but just an FYI. Jersey Jack got really upset about patent infringement and copyright issues in the special when lit podcast issue recently, said the community needs to knock if off or the results won't be pretty. Jjp logo may be a bit to far

At what point during the podcast did JJP discuss copyright issues?

1 week later
#11353 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Guys are the siderails just attached by screws or is there adhesive underneath them? Thinking about powdercoating them. If its adhesive ill leave em be.

The double-stick tape on my siderails wasn't adhering from day one. You can push on the sides and feel the rails flex slightly. I'd never seen that on any other pin, from any year. When I mentioned it to JJP they asked for pics and then sent me a new set of rails which seemed like overkill since all mine needed was new/more tape, but whatever, now I have a second set of LE siderails. On a side note, I've since checked other POTC and found they also have the issue with siderails not sticking.

#11384 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I kept pushing on mine and eventually they got solid. I guess the adhesive took a while to cure or something.

Tried that and it would stick for a day or so, but eventually pull away. For now I'm just ignoring it.

#11436 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Installed my jack and the BP mod from harryhoudini

Did your mod come with printed instructions? If not, are the instructions posted anywhere?

1 week later
#11618 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Can someone explain to me what Souls represent in Liar’s Dice?

Speaking of Liar's Dice, the game cheats, all the time, we never win!

#11635 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Starting to consistently get a “target ship switch stuck closed” error when turning on the game. I know this is the switch inside the Dauntless for when you hit it with the cannon ball - but does anybody know if it’s a physical switch or an opto? I am not in a huge hurry to disassemble the game if I don’t have to

Dauntless switch is an opto. Very possible the cheap plastic clip they use to secure the opto popped out.

1 week later
#11738 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

So has anyone made it to the final wizard mode? Is it even programmed? I’m sure I have years before I’ll get there but I’m mostly curious If there are any major features missing and due for a code update...

Final wizard mode is not in the code yet. We're all still waiting for the 1.0 release. Other confirmed updates will include some balancing of the character features.

#11742 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

WOZ just got another code update yesterday (smaller update), Dialed In got another update, and Wonka is on 1.09 now. Pirates remains on .99...just doesn't seem right considering the game was released over a year ago

I feel like POTC is the bastard child of the JJP lineup.

#11866 2 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

WAY less to deal with than STTNG!

LOL, my STTNG has always been rock solid. But as a side note, STTNG has code to automatically alter the play when mechs fail so the pin could remain functional until the operator got around to fixing it.

#11898 2 years ago
Quoted from tmfeuerh:

Not simple. You have to loosen the ramps, unplug the Mini PF, remove the Mini PF, etc. I wasn't planning to do much work on a NIB.

POTC was my first NIB and I was surprised by what I needed to fix to get it up and running. There were no broken parts but some of the issues were not trivial or easy to repair. A few days later I spoke with JJP (I think it was Eric) and asked point blank what someone without the knowledge or skill to fix pinball machines would do in this situation and he told me that Jack could approve sending out a tech, but generally they (JJP) were lucky in that most all their customers are willing and able to do the work themselves. Keep in mind that I purchased directly from JJP and as others have mentioned, typically the distributor would handle the service issues. So this is basically the status of the industry, manufactures don't have to provide working units because the customers are willing to accept as is and fix themselves. Crazy for $6k - $12k toys! Anyway, best of luck with your new POTC, you'll love playing it I'm sure!

2 weeks later
#11990 2 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I agree with you. Only problem is, only the wife can lend a helping hand atm and the stool is from HF

Also keep in mind that the weight of the pin is shared between the front legs and the stool, so you should be fine. At least I think that's how gravity works

#12046 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Does that apply to all mylar (Tortuga, The Depths etc?) Or just that troublesome one at MAP with the bubble?

I only removed the lifted Mylar by the map hole, the rest I left in place.

#12058 2 years ago
Quoted from 3pinballs:

My mylar was lifting by the hole on the back right side, but forgot to take off mylar before putting on Cliffy. the whole cliffy lays flat, but I can see that the Cliffy is slightly raised on the back right side, but barely. I'd like to take it off and reinstall, but it's minimal as the post behind the deflector holds it down pretty well. Do think it will cause any issues ...only that removing wax might not be as clean as I'd like.

The mylar to the right of the map hole was lifting but I flattened it, pressed it back down, then installed the cliffy over top. Problem was after a few days the mylar lifted again and this caused the cliffy to lift just slightly which affected the ball more than I liked. So I ended up removing the cliffy and pulling up the bad mylar. I'd like to know why so many owners have reported bad mylar around the map hole - did the JJP employee who's job it was to install that section decide to punk us all?

1 week later
#12227 2 years ago

When you think about it, there's always going to be a chance that the ball hangs up on the gap between the BP and the ramp. The BP rocks left/right, so one side or the other will be slightly higher or lower.

#12244 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Neither have I. I've had the game since April and have yet to open the backbox or lift the playfield.

That's actually amazing - the odds of having a pin (particularly one as complex as POTC) that was 100% dialed in from day one and hasn't had a single issue in five months, you really lucked out!

1 week later
#12350 2 years ago
Quoted from wesman:

I don't intend to be cynical. Or even critical of JJP here.
But I'd imagine if no games exist to be sold, further development of code, at least in a really revolutionary way, won't happen. I'm guessing we'll be fortunate to get the final wizard mode/s at some point.
Dialed In and Hobbit had big updates, and games still to sell NIB. Pirates most likely never will, I'm assuming.
Ghostbusters by Stern, was promised for years for that update, and I'm guessing it's not entirely out of production either.
Just doesn't make sense to have a push for Pirates code, past maybe cleanup.
I hope I'm incorrect, obviously, but those Hobbit revisions existed for a reason.

Hopefully our Pirates will not become the next GB.

#12379 2 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

We should keep it to polite nudges instead of getting out-of-hand by jumping to conclusions that they abandoned the game and being upset about it … and pissing them off in the process as they rarely respond to stuff like that. Just a suggestion.

They don't respond to anything. All they have to do is post "We have not forgotten POTC and we are working on it" and everyone would be happy to wait. But instead they remain silent while their customers (us) start speculating which is never good.

2 weeks later
#12506 2 years ago

Hey all, I've got a friend who's working on an academic project to integrate an AR experience with pinball. He's using a Raspberry Pi and will try to capture audio events by analyzing the pin's call-outs and other audio (music, sound effects, etc). If he can get this to work, we realized we could use the tech to trigger video clips. I recall someone else had been working on a small screen to replace the missing (or mostly useless) starfield on the back of POTC. There was a demo of a clip showing "Extra Ball" but without any event integration it was just a random video sample. But if my friend can get his project working we could actually add video content that syncs with the game play. Would be very cool!

1 week later
#12649 2 years ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

I read in the Official Expo thread that it was said "no more Pirates will be made, unless very large pre-paid preorders were made by distributors, and they didn't think that was going to happen. Pirates was a slow burn seller, where interest in it grew only at the end of the run, and after it was sold out".

Fine by me, keeps the value of the existing 1000 machines stable and there will always be resales available for anyone who wants a POTC. But I do feel like JJP just wants to sweep POTC under the proverbial carpet.

#12727 2 years ago

Hey all, I've posted in the past (and others have confirmed) that the inner orbit shot from upper flipper often does not make it around and instead ends up in the VUK to the upper playfield. I've never been able to make more than four consecutive loops, and even that's very difficult. So yesterday I removed the BP and dis some testing. Turns out the issue is that the ball does not transition smoothly from the inner orbit rails to the outer orbit rails. Instead it bounces between the top and bottom rails at the top of the orbit. To make matters worse, the top rail has no mounting points where the ball impacts so it flexes (causing the bounce) and the bottom rail is not even curved.

Here are a couple videos demonstrating the issue. The second is slow-motion.

I'm not sure why some POTCs have this issue and others don't, maybe the incline? One thing I noticed is that when the flex is removed from the top rail (pressure from behind) the ball still bounces but not nearly as much and orbits around faster. So for me the solution might be to add some sort of bracket behind the top rail at the point of impact. Any other suggestions or thoughts?

#12728 2 years ago

Hey all, I've posted in the past (and others have confirmed) that the inner orbit shot from upper flipper often does not make it around and instead ends up in the VUK to the upper playfield. I've never been able to make more than four consecutive loops, and even that's very difficult. So yesterday I removed the BP and dis some testing. Turns out the issue is that the ball does not transition smoothly from the inner orbit rails to the outer orbit rails. Instead it bounces between the top and bottom rails at the top of the orbit. To make matters worse, the top rail has no mounting points where the ball impacts so it flexes (causing the bounce) and the bottom rail is not even curved.

Here are a couple videos demonstrating the issue. The second is slow-motion where you can actually see the top rail flexing on ball impact.

I'm not sure why some POTCs have this issue and others don't, maybe the incline? One thing I noticed is that when the flex is removed from the top rail (pressure from behind) the ball still bounces but not nearly as much and orbits around faster. So for me the solution might be to add some sort of bracket behind the top rail at the point of impact. Any other suggestions or thoughts?

#12731 2 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

Did you send the ball by hand, or with the flipper?

For the video I used my hand.

#12732 2 years ago
Quoted from arzoo:

For the video I used my hand, but the same basic motion occurs when using the flipper.

#12733 2 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

Did you send the ball by hand, or with the flipper?

For the video I used my hand, but the same basic motion occurs when using the flipper.

#12734 2 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Could the problem instead be the shape of the inner orbit guide? I don’t know, but my first impression looking at the videos is the ball seems to hit the outer orbit guide in a way that it would have a tough time continuing on regardless of the shape of the outer guide. Could the shape of the inner orbit guide be a problem in that it needs to feed the ball into the lane at a better angle? Again, I don’t know but that was my impression from the video.

I would agree, the inner orbit rail could probably be angled better, but that's the way JJP designed it, and that can't be changed.

#12740 2 years ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

Is there a noticeable ball trail on the playfield or metal guide indicating the ball path? From your video, it looks like there's a pretty good trail along the outer ball guide.

For the video I placed the ball on the outer rail of the inner orbit (just to the right of the map hole) and launched it with my finger. So it always impacted the outer orbit top rail just to the left of the opto hole. But as Axl mentioned, when using the flipper the ball travel is much more varied and hence the wider impact/trail. But regardless, the ball always defects from the top to the bottom rail losing momentum. What's strange is visually all the rails look to be configured for smooth transitions and I'm sure that was the intent, but in reality (at least on my pin) that's not how it works.

#12741 2 years ago

I also noticed there's a small unused hole (about screw size) behind the top rail just to the left of the opto mount. It's very close to the back wall, about 3/4" from the rail. Wonder what it was intended to be used for? I might be able to secure and L bracket between the back of the rail and the playfield using that hole, which should theoretically reduce the flex in the rail. Although I could drill a new hole anywhere back there to mount the L bracket.

#12744 2 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Reposition the inner loop rail so it is aimed better on exit or slow down the ball? As you said it occurs after a few orbits the root cause is probably the balls exit speed.

Unfortunately the mounting points on the rail and playfield are not adjustable.

#12749 2 years ago

Here's my solution to help with the ball bouncing between the top and bottom rails when transitioning from the inner orbit. I added a small bracket behind the top rail at the point where the ball tends to impact. Conveniently there was already an unused screw point in the playfield in the exact spot. This removed all the flex in the rail at that point and reduces the bounce effect. My initial testing indicates it definitely helps.

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#12754 2 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Might want to trim that other bracket. Although preventing the flex it might not be an issue now, but it still kills me that it's sticking out past the guide. I'm definitely going to give this a shot, can't hurt and I'm guessing we're narrowing down issues here.

Yeah, the first time I removed the BP I was sure that bracket sticking out below the rail was the cause of the missed orbits, but it does not touch the ball.

Fabricating the metal bracket took about 30 minutes but I think a well designed 3D printed plastic part might work just as well. It would have to be really strong because it's going to take a beating.

#12755 2 years ago

I've done some more play testing and although the extra bracket helps reduce the rail flex, I'm not sure how beneficial it is; some shots seem to loop better, but many are still failing. The real solution would be to change the shape of the inner orbit rail, but since the mounting points are fixed, we would have to change the curve by adding an additional metal piece and I have no idea how that could be done.

Added over 2 years ago:

Update: We've been playing with the extra rail bracket and the consensus is it does help - we've been able to make more consecutive orbits. Not a huge difference, but it's better.

#12762 2 years ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

Right. As I said once, if I hit it “perfectly”, it tends to always come around and often faster every time... which makes sense because you are consistently increasing momentum.

For me it's exactly the opposite, the faster shots seem to ricochet/bounce more so each consecutive loop slows down until it fails and ends up in the BP VUK.

1 week later
#12895 2 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Ok, I give up, WTF is the Star Map trying to tell me?

When you shoot the chapter targets when no chapters are qualified, the star map will flash a symbol that represents another shot somewhere on the playfield. For example, it might flash the letter P for the P-pirate lane. That's the shot you need to make. At the same time the star map flashes the symbol, the light for the selected shot will also flash white for a second. So in the example, the P lane would flash. I find it much easier to just watch for the flashing light on the playfield than try to decipher the symbols.

#12925 2 years ago

Like many others have done, I installed the Tilt Graphics GameBlades on my POTC and the fit was very tight. I wonder if the protectors would even fit? Over time I've damaged both sides when lowering the playfield at a slight angle, so now I'm thinking of getting a new set (hoping the PinGraffix go on sale this month).

1 week later
#12960 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Not sure there were any shipping blocks, this is a 2nd hand game... but will check... so I take it after the ball drains the Black Pearl should continue to rock...? Not stop rocking and start again as mine does? When it's rocking it does seem 100% OK... just odd that it stops rocking while it's doing the bonus count between balls, yet with the sound of the motor wirring, and starts again when the ball comes to the plunger lane... doesn't seem like an accidentally caused issue... but maybe it is??

Not sure about any motor whirring noise but the BP does stop rocking between balls. Maybe the sound you're hearing is the spinning disk? Mine is rather loud (even with silencer mod).

0.99 is the latest code.

#12963 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

This whirring is more like a cyclic sound, like a washing machine slowly churning the washing... very regular, at the same frequency as the BP rocking... basically it sounds like the BP is still rocking but it stops... the disc doesn't turn when this is happening... is there not some kind of actuation pin/clamp/clutch that fixes or detaches the BP to the cyclic movement of the actuating arm? Sounds crazy when you can just stop the motor, but I'm struggling to understand how else I can get what I'm experiencing... So when the BP stops rocking between balls, you don't get any cycling whirring sound? My volume is turned low, so if you have your game turned up this sound might be blocked out by the music during the bonus count?

I turned my sound all the way down, and between balls the ship does not rock and the pin is basically silent except for a very slight hum from the transformer. You can run a Black Pearl test to make sure it's rocking at all speeds, but sounds like yours is fine. Or maybe turn on the pin with the playfield pulled forward and see if you can identify where the sound is coming from.

#12974 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Aaaah... so only prototypes of any of the variations have the concentric disks?? This has probably been discussed to death of course... so sorry for my newb questions... don't feel so bad that I'm missing something in that case... crazy how most gameplay vids use the prototype... at least the ones I stumbled across!

The original prototype also had the Chest cover open and close based on when a ball could be locked, but all production units have the chest cover fixed in the open position. Cool thing is there's now a mod you can purchase to make the cover open and close like it was intended! Probably one of the coolest mods you can add imo. Not trivial to install but worth it. https://pinballmods.co/pinball-mods/PinballJs-actuated-chest-mod-JJP-POTC

#12978 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballslave:

Thanks for the link!! They just sold another one! Has anyone come up with a mod to replace the concentric spinning disks with lighted inserts?

That's not likely to happen. The hole in the playfield and the artwork was altered for the smaller single disk. Also the mechanism for the three disks was very complex and supposedly prone to failure. Honestly, I think everyone was in love with the "idea" of the three disks because it was so unique, but in reality the game play is no different with a single disk given the way it spins (variable speed and direction).

#13006 2 years ago
Quoted from GnarLee:

Board the pearl hit a switch to let the game know your really really up there

This really bugs me and I hope they fix it in the code update. The code logic needs a switch trigger on the BP to know that the ball is on the BP, but the only way up is via the ramps or the rear VUK and obviously both those are known events in the code (they have switch triggers). So why the need for the additional random switch event on the BP? I guess we could argue that with Ragetti the intent was to make the reward (add a ball) more difficult, but I'd bet they're using the same code routine as the "Light Fuse" gate (the cannon) which needs to be reopened if the ball leaves and then returns to the BP, which again should be known from the ramp opto or VUK, not an additional random switch trigger on the BP.

#13010 2 years ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

So I don't see anything marked "Super X" near the chest on the playfield. This is very frustrating, as I hear "Super X is lit" all the time, yet cannot find it. : (

Each time you complete the six pirate lanes, the selected reward can be activated by hitting the Pirate stand-up which is between the left orbit and the chest. The insert for the Pirate stand-up will light with the color of the reward you completed. So for Super X, the light will be purple. If you were to complete all six pirate lanes again before hitting the Pirate target, then the insert will flash both colors and the target will give two awards (you can't lose a pirate award, they stack, at least for the current ball in play).

For Super X, after you hit the (purple) Pirate stand-up it will light one (or more) of the six multiplier stand-ups, also colored purple. For example, hit the 2X stand-up and you'll start 2-times playfield values.

Basically there's no target labeled "Super X". The pirate lanes, pirate target, and multiplier targets all serve multiple modes and you have to go by the color.

#13023 2 years ago
Quoted from MarZ_78:

If you don't collect a Pirate Lane Award at the Pirate Target before completely lighting the P-I-R-A-T-E Lanes for the next Pirate Lane Award, the first Pirate Lane Award will be canceled. Only one Pirate Lane Award will be lit at the Pirate Target at a time.
However, multiple Pirate Lane Awards (Playfield multiplier (Super X), Next Shot Multiplier (Shot X), Bonus Multiplier (Bonus X)) can be lit and ready to activate at the STANDUP TARGETS (2x-6X) after they are collected at the Pirate Target.
Some Awards are collected and activated by hitting the Pirate Target (ARRR frenzy, Add A Ball, Big Points, Add Time, Gold). Some are activated in other areas of the playfield (Lite extra Ball, Liars Dice).

Hmm, I thought I had seen the Pirate stand-up blinking between two awards (colors), but guess I was wrong. Thanks for the clarification.

1 week later
#13090 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

Nope. I fear it was a ploy to get the pinball media off their back and people buying their games again.


#13129 2 years ago
Quoted from Crunch:

Why are there so few Jersey Jack POTC manufactured?

When JJP first demo'd POTC they used a prototype machine. Later they announced that the production pin would not included some of the cool features, and that turned off a lot of buyers who had put down deposits. I'm guessing early sales were slower than expected. By the time everyone realized how amazing POTC was, JJP had already decided to move on with their next pin (Wonka) and POTC production was limited to 1000 units (200 CEs, 650 LEs, 150 SEs). There has also been a rumor that Jack wanted parts for and additional 500 machines but for some reason did not move forward with that.

1 week later
#13164 1 year ago

Recently I've noticed an issue with the chest ball lock; if there are two balls locked and a different player locks a ball so that the chest needs to let one ball out, it always lets out two (in a row). I don't think it's the mech because when the chest multi-ball starts normally, it correctly lets the balls out one at a time (the gate closes briefly between each release). Anyone else notice this issue or have a solution?

#13167 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Adjust the coil timing for the chest until they come out one at a time.

Didn't know this was possible. Thanks.

#13170 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Adjust the coil timing for the chest until they come out one at a time.

Changed the time value from 3 to 2 and chest ball release is working perfectly now!

1 week later
#13275 1 year ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I would note though that if JJP said upfront that they were only going to make 1000 JJPOTC pins total (150 Standard, 650 LE and 200 CE - or whatever it was for the breakdown), they would have sold out just as fast at that price. I wouldn't advise that they do that though and limit themselves to a maximum production number.

There’s a huge difference between JJP and Spooky. Go check out the R&M thread; the lead designer, lead coder, and a few others (including the owner) have all been participating in the conversation about the pin. When was the last time Jack or anyone from JJP got involved in a forum thread? It’s that kind of transparency that helped sell out R&M in four hours, not the fact that it was limited to 750 units. Also, R&M is a very current and relevant IP, so it appeals to a younger generation, as opposed to the majority of current IP themes (Munsters, WW, JP, etc.). Obviously a pinball theme is not what makes it great, but it can generate excitement. Will be interesting to see how Stranger Things does, at least it’s semi-recent. Anyway, I love my POTC and it will never leave my collection. Hoping the same for my R&M!