I feel like you wrote that specifically for me, lol!

I watch and read this thread daily (really need to start from the beginning). I REALLY want to buy a Pirates, and I love JJP pins. I pop on here and all I see are problems being talked about. No scoring, strategy etc. Has me a little worried. I've got no problems fixing things, I can handle that. I just don't really have the time. With a demanding job, wife, and 2 little kids, my free time is very short. I'd prefer to use it playing pinball and not fixing them. I used to spend hours buying, fixing, selling games. I just don't have the time for that stuff anymore. I just want to play!

Yeah I'm most likely going to buy a NIB from Chris @ Kingpin games when he gets some in stock. Looking forward to it!

Hey all - I'm reading through this whole thread starting on page 1, but I've got a quick questions I'm too impatient on the answer for. What's the deal with the LED stars between the two ships on the back board? Is it just there for looks? Is it interactive?

Watch near the end of the video where keeper goes over the positives and negatives. It would be nice if this was also displayed when selecting a character.

This stuff right here is why I love JJP games.

Thanks Keefer!

Well I just threw down a deposit on an LE. My distributor says I should have my game in 2-3 weeks. I’ll be in this club soon!

What are the must have mods for this game? I definitely want to add mirror blades. Can anyone recommend where I can get those? I’ve searched a little bit and didn’t find any that specifically fit POTC.

Is there anything I should check or adjust before I play my game?

I’m trying to read through this while thread. I’m about 10 pages in. I’m sure I’ll pick up a lot of useful information through it all.

Happy to join this group that seems to be so helpful!

Cool. Snap some pics of you can.

Can you guys tell me if there is external volume controls standard on the Limited Edition?

I added an ext volume control to by Hobbit since the volume controls on it are only for the headphones. Is this true for Pirates too?

Will this one work for Pirates?

http://www.pinnovators.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=57

Not just for the headphones? Also adjusts the normal game volume?

How many balls are in this game? I'm going to order new balls.

Awesome. Thanks!

Does anyone have a video or link to a video that shows proper travel of the Black Pearl? The only one I've played only went to the left and back to level. Is it supposed to go to the right as well? I though it was a bit odd and now reading through most of these posts, it still seems odd. Sounds like the ship is supposed to move left AND right.

I actually started putting $1.00 in quarters in my games a while ago. I love it. Free games actually have a meaning now. I get it that they are all still free games, but it makes it more exciting! There is something awesome about actually dropping quarters into a game. It give you that authentic feel.

I like to check coin boxes and see which games I play more based on the loot inside.

I put all of the money from the machines into my kids' savings/investment accounts. Just a little added fluff to what I normally invest for them.

666666 has no biblical reference whatsoever. 666 does though - that’s the mark of the beast, not 666666. They are literally 666,000 numbers away from each other.

Just got an email that my LE should be shipping this week and be in my hands sometime next week. Can't wait!

I'm interested in seeing if this is fixed on mine. I'm pretty anal about stuff like that.

I've never had an issue with any machine I've owned in regards to sub hook up. I simply solder wires directly to the subwoofer in the cab and run them to a powered sub. The hobbit rocks and I have that sub on LOW. Is POTC an oddball here for some reason? I sure hope not. The subwoofer is the first thing/mod I hook up!

What colored flipper rubbers are you guys going with? Brand? Got any pics?

I wouldn't go past 2. There is just no way one sub could handle input from all 4 games and sound great. It might get you by, but no way it's ideal.

Did you order through pinballstar? I have #800 coming and I believe #900 was a choice I had as well. Still waiting on mine. Shipping tracking shows the last movement was 1/25/2019. I haven’t heard anything since. Glad to hear yours is trouble free. Is the topper centered?

Nope . Build date 1/15/19.

Just got mine yesterday in the cold. I unboxed it, pull the glass, slid the playfield out, removed the backbox glass. I set a space heater near the machine to help warm it up (not too close!). After 4 hours, everything was room temp.

Got my LE yesterday and set it up!!!

Had a few issues, main one being that I got to see that the chest was broken when I lifted the backbox. That was a huge bummer since it's not really playable right now. There was no shipping block between the chest and the black pearl like the included flyer shows there should have been.

I did get to play a few games though (no chest of course). During this, I had both of the screens go out at the same time. They didn't come back on until I power cycled the machine. I was holding the left flipper to access the info screens. Once they came up, I hit the right flipper 3 times. Both screens went out right then. Anyone seen this before?

Game 1 (resized).jpg

Screens 1 (resized).jpg

Chest 1 (resized).jpg

Chest3 (resized).jpg

I'll check the cables, but it happens to both monitors at the same time, so that seems unlikely.

1/15/19 - #800

Negative. The game number has nothing to do with production numbers.

I really don't know to be honest. I have 5 numbers to choose from. 800 was the best of those IMO. I asked my disrto about order and numbers and he said they have no correlation.

I disagree. In multiplayer games when you are the better player, this can be a huge advantage.

After 3 chest multiballs, it won't let you lock balls anymore.

Just solder the wires to the sub in the bottom of the cab. Run those wires out the back bottom part of the cabinet. There are some screens that you can remove the screw too and have space for the wire.

YES PLEASE!!! I had this happen in a good game last night. Ball came through the left "outlane" and then bounced and drained through the center "outlane". I figured no big deal and the game would recognize that the switch above wasn't hit and give me my ball back.....no luck. This needs to be added.

Anyone have any issues with their chest fork being too high? Mine is adjusted all the way down and it still slightly sticks out of the playfield. Enough to effect ball travel and even get ball hang ups. The only other thing I can think to do is remove the complete assembly and add some thin washers for a little more space.

Thoughts?

Ok - going for a hat trick of posts here. I was looking at this beautiful game this morning and couldn't help but laugh when looking at the backbox. I imagine a couple guys in the bar talking about what artwork should go on it.

"How about the back glass?" ---"Definitely got to have the skull and crossbones!"----"Good Idea"

"How about the back box sides that are inches away from the skull and crossbones?"----"Hmmm....How bout more skull and crossbones?"----"Genius!!!"

"Now what about the topper?"----"Fuck it!!! More skull and crossbones! Skull and crossbones everywhere!"----"God damn! That why I love you man. Another round please!

Capture (resized).JPG

Ok last post for now. I'd love to see something else done with this screen. It's about as lame as it gets.

IMG_3310 (resized).jpg

Played a few games last night. It didn't happen. I'll keep an eye on it and post back if it acts up.

Just wanted to post that JJP support and Joe @ PinballStar are awesome. Within just a few hours of me making them aware of my broken chest and other minor issues, they had fixes ready to rock n roll. It's great customer service that makes me love JJP pins!

Bravo JJP team. Bravo.

1st question - Yes - You need to loosen that nut and slide the habitrail over a bit. Try metric sockets maybe? Otherwise a small crescent wrench.

2nd question - I think this is designed in some mode. The post pops up to deflect the ball back to the upper left flipper.

Liars dice is awesome. Just learn how to play!

Not possible. Floating scores wouldn't be showing up. Has to be software related.

Genius. I love this!

Can someone clue me in here.

X = Played the mode and didn't complete?

Check mark =Played the mode and completed?

Skull = ?????

IMG_3353 (resized).jpg

Cool. Thanks guys.

Question on strategy here.

I find it very difficult to play all 5 chapters of one movie unless you choose Tia Dalma. The position of the chapter start area makes it difficult to start a chapter after making the shot, without starting another chapter.

For example. Let's say I want to play through Curse of the Black Pearl chapters. I hit that shot. Then I need to get the ball over to the left flipper to make the chapter start shot. So I hit the left ramp....now I have 2 separate movies qualified.

Any thoughts here?

I was trying that last night. I can post pass all day long on my other games. I just can't seem to pull it off on this one for some reason.

What kind of spotlights does this game use? I had one bad one and replaced it with a 6.3v spot. Burnt 2 of them out right away.

Scratch that. All of my spotlights are out now. That’s no good. What did I burn out?

You are correct. 714 was blown. All good now. Gracias amigo.

04C5245A-237F-497D-89FB-C0D984B409EC (resized).jpeg

I just installed mirror blades on mine this weekend. It was tight, but I got them in. Love the way that they look!

Has anyone switched out their 12 volt spotlights? I had one go out (just requested a replacement). I'm wondered if there any any better options. I'm looking for one that it set back in the housing further. The factory ones stick out quite a bit and are bright when seen from the side. I'm looking for something that just projects the light forward.

Would either of these work?

https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8smdminit10.htm

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=17&product_id=77

https://cointaker.com/products/copy-of-1-89-flat-8-0c82c6fd-e922-4d87-96be-bc44e8d96f3e

I notice the same thing on mine. Thought it was kind of odd too.

Do they stick out past the spotlight cone? Can they be seen from the player's view?

FYI - I just placed an order for your disc silencer and cannon mod. Looking forward to them!

I got one in the last couple of weeks. My build date was 1.15.2019.

I'm really picky when it comes to my pins. I spend A LOT of time dialing in all of the switches and whatnot.

Here are the "real" issues I've had:

-The machine showed up with a broken chest. The bracket itself was broken. I feel like the gauge of metal used is a bit too thin. Replacement sent and installed. Works great now. My father helped me set up the game. He sure enjoyed his "$10,000 huh?" comments.
-Chest fork release solenoid wire solder came undone after a few plays.. Had to re-solder the wire. Not at all impressed by the solder work on this game to be honest. My father (electrical engineer) and myself (ex-auto tech) were both very un-impressed by the solder work. JJP needs to retrain their employees on this skill set. One of these days when I'm very bored, I will lift the play field and re-solder most of these wires.
-Chest forks were sitting too high. This one was odd. Honestly, I think either this mech is not properly designed or was not properly installed. Even when adjusted all the way down with the set screw, it still sat above the play field and was causing ball hang ups. I had to remove the mech and install some washers to space it out. Plays great now, but can't image someone wouldn't notice that during QC.
-One of the spotlights wasn't working. The casing itself was split in half. I could get it to flicker if I pressed on it. New bulb coming from JJP.
-Tortuga VUK was sending balls SDTM. Had to remove tortuga pop number to adjust this.

Here are the "I'm a picky pinball player and not many people but me would notice these things" issues I've had:

-Not one single flipper was properly gapped. I swear there was almost 1/2 inch play in one of them. I re-gapped all 5 flippers.
-Black pearl flippers were not properly aligned. Left flipper sat higher than the right and also got stuck in the up position.
-I re-gapped the "G-O-L-D" targets and the chapter start targets. They were not equally gapped.
-I re-gapped the slingshot switches. Also not equally gapped and also gapped way too wide in my opinion.

I have spent 8-12 hours dialing this game in. At the end of the day though, I would still do it all over again. My machine is as smooth as butter now. This game is nothing but incredible. Well designed and well coded. I've been through a lot of games, and this one is right up near the top, if not at the top. Anyone on the fence should jump right over.

My only disclaimer would be that if you don't know how to solder, or aren't mechanically inclined....you may want to look elsewhere.

Joe PinballSTAR has been great and so has Steve @ JJP for helping me out with my new chest and other minor issues.

JJP and team knocked this game out of the park. Seriously...such an amazing game and a great shooter.
chest (resized).jpg

That looks so damn good. Nice work.

This is not at all a fair comparison. You don’t have the lower spotlights installed.

Hey guys. Wondering if you can take a look at you chest "load" target for me. I'm having issues with mine.

The guide rail to the right of the target sits out into the target hole. This causes the target to not register when the ball hits it. The guide rail acts as a reinforcement and does not allow the switch enough room to move. On top of that, when I go after that switch, the ball hits the end of that guide rail and makes a terrible noise. It's starting to get dented in already after 61 plays. I'm sure it will take a toll on the balls as well.

I've tried moving the switch over. There was no play in the screw hole, so I used a washer on the right side to tip it over a bit. Wasn't enough to do anything.

My only other though is to remove the chest assembly and see if I can move that guide rail back and to the left a hair. I may even grind down the front of it so it's not hanging over the switch hole.

I can't even get chest locks going because I can't get the switch to register because of this guide rail. I don't even shoot near the chest now because of the awful noise it makes when the ball clunks the end of that guide rail.

Does yours look like this? Any other thoughts besides trying to move or grind the front of that rail?

chest 1 (resized).jpg

chest 22 (resized).jpg

I would recommend against people doing this. The problem isn't that the button needs lube. The problem is that JJP installed the switch it hits at an angle. This causes the switch to flex to the left when pressed down, and then it binds.

Sure, some lube might help this. But to actually fix the problem, you simply need to bend that switch blade to a flat/horizontal position. This will stop the switch from flexing to the left when pressed down. 15 second fix.

pinball_keefer I believe I found a bug last night.

I had qualified Liars Dice. Then I drained to the right outlane but saved the ball and bounced it into the shooter lane. The auto plunger launched the ball. The magnet under the pearl grabbed the ball and dropped it into the hole. I played and won Liars Dice. Then the ball kick up onto the pearl.

When the ball got on the pearl, none of the lights were on. None of the switches would register. Lights didn't come on when switches were here. The ball drained down the wireform and back to the main play field. Everything was fine after that.....odd one.

Also, I believe this is already well known, I had shot the start chapter shot and a chapter never started.

Hmmm.... No kiddin? I stand corrected then. Sounds like there are multiple issues with this button.

Yes. It shows you basically everything important that you need to know. Just like WOZ and Hobbit.

Negative. That would only make the issue worse with dead hits to the guide rail.

Well I was able to fix my issue with the "load" switch to the left of the chest. I removed the chest and the rail. I used a bench grinder to shorten the rail. I also widened one of the screw holes so I could move the rail closer to the target. The rail is now nicely tucked behind the target and causes zero issues. No more switch problems and more importantly no more dead hits to that rail.

JJP team - you may want to look into this.

chest (resized).jpg

Yeah yours looks good. Mine definitely did not look like that. I've got it all fixed now. Thank you for posting this.

I'll take a look at mine tonight and see what monitor type I have. I have the same build date as you.

While I do love this game, I’d have to agree. It feels like I’m just playing multi ball after multi ball after multi ball. It’s a bit heavy on the multiballs. I may go in and make them harder to achieve in the settings.

Big shoutout to yeobird aka mod couple. I installed my disc silencer mod today. All I can say is wow! I can’t hear that disc anymore. I actually like when the disc is running now. Before, it was SO LIUD and annoying. If you’re going to do any mod to your game, do this.

I know this has been brought up before, but what kind of balls are you guys using? I have tried Marcos and Titan's and the both magnetized and were unplayable in a matter of 1-2 games. The factory ones worked fine, but got all dinged up from hitting a rail I had to modify. Any suggestions?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-5

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=57&product_id=70

The balls got so magnetized that they would stick in the trough AND in the chest. The chest coil would open to allow the balls to roll out, but they would just sit there!

Thanks for the heads up. I just placed an order with Mezel. I cancelled it and added this to it. How does it attach?

I'm not. Not that Cliff doesn't make great products....but really what's the point? So you cover a perfectly good and beautiful play field with some ugly metal pieces to avoid the possibility of some slight chipping? You also change slow ball roll trajectory which effects game play (my biggest grip with cliffys).

My philosophy would be that if you do get chipping and it bothers you, THEN you can cover it will a cliffy. You would still never know there was chipping below and in the mean time you got to play the game as it was intended.

It's like when you see people driving around with those black door edge guards. I just can't help but laugh. They look like shit. Same philosophy.....if you get the edges dinged up...THEN cover it up.

I still have a hard time believing that a HUO machine could chip in those hole area. That boggles my mind.

Yes. Or you can just solder the wires to the sub in the bottom of the cab. There are holes in the bottom near the back of the pin to run the wire out.

I agree. I have enjoyed the films as well. I just finished #4 last night. I will watch #5 in the next few days.

Maybe people take them too seriously. They are meant to be light hearted and fun!

I checked my monitor to see if it's the HDMI (older) or DVI (newer) version. Mine has a DVI screen and the production date is 1.15.2019.

Screen looks great!

Bump up your flipper coil strengths. I can hit it from both flippers with ease.

Couldn’t agree more with this. It was honestly a factor that almost steered me away from the machine. I’m still glad I bought it, it’s an amazing game. But I would have love some nice powder coat. I look at my hobbit and then at pirates and it’s just Night and day different. The hobbit powder coating is incredible.

Remove that guide rail. Dremel the hole for the bottom screw a wee bit bigger to the left. Bend the rail and reinstall.

I believe they are all at a bit of an angle. Mine is as well. Not really sure why. As long as it's working, I'd leave it alone.

Yeah mine is very tight as well. I messed around with it for a good 20 minutes the first time I tried to get the play field back in. I figured there had to be something wrong. Nope...it's just tight as hell! I have to REALLY push on my play field brackets to get it back in place.

So I had my switch #48 error last night when I opened the machine. I tried to move the ship and it was stuck really good. I hit and sink the ship through the hole all the time, so I was confused. Well the ship wasn't moving. After messing around, I finally found that the bracket behind the backboard was binding against the wire loom coming from the head. It was a quick fix with a dremel. I just ground down a little of the bracket and everything is moving smoothly.

Just wanted to post this in case others come across this issue and they are scratching their head. It had me puzzled for a moment because I couldn't see anything binding. When I'd pull the play field out to inspect, it wouldn't bind anymore. That's when the light bulb in my head went off.

It's removed. I'm not that dense.

Well you're looking to move the rail to the right, so you need to elongate the screw hole to the left. This way there is room to move the rail to the left? Follow me?

This is the Dremel I use, and get a bit like this one.

dremel bit (resized).jpg

dremel®micro-16223 (resized).jpg

Does anyone know if the fountain of youth shot is supposed to count towards getting to that multiball on the INITAL plunge/skill shot?

Mine does not. Switches all test fine.

One more thing to check.

I had a replacement chest sent to me (original one broke). When I got this one, I found the coil the activates the chest release arm, was not properly seated. This caused that arm to not open enough. Pretty easy fix. Just loosen the phillips screw that hold the coil to the plate, adjust the coil so it sits flush, re-tighten.

I couldn't help but shake my head....

I like this idea. Flippers should be dead when selecting a character. Good thought.

I agree. It's one of the reason I like JJP pins. When I play a standard body pin now, they just feel "mini" or small to me.

Do you know what the fix is? Is it an update that they would send to current owners?

I've had this same trap happen to me as well.

Can someone clue me in to what this Kaneda review is? Is this the same Kaneda guy I'm thinking about???? 2-4 years ago he would just troll every thread and basically everyone just told him to shut up. He had some anime character as his avatar....

Go with the LE. Definitely worth the extra cash.

Gotcha. Makes sense now.

So what is the consensus on no foam behind these targets. Seems like a lot of people have noticed this. It seems very odd. Anybody know?

IMG_3503 (resized).jpg

That's what I was thinking. The spot gold targets still have foam, but I would have to assume that's because they are taking a more hit and will have move force exerted on them.

For those of you looking to get a spare play field to have on hand, have you looked into cost on this? Any idea?

Congrats on the game. It really is amazing.

Don't glue that plunger tip back on. Contact JJP or Joe and get a replacement. Mine broke after just a few games too. Shitty rubber. I have replacements on hand and just used one of those.

Enjoy the new toy!

I switched mine all to Titans. I had to up all my flipper coil settings to have the same effect on the ball.

Or am I crazy? I would have to assume it's because the titan rings are softer and don't transmit the same power to the ball when you are using the harder stock rubbers.

Has anyone else noticed this?

I usually use Super Bands, but decided to try Titans this time.

My dauntless was hanging up on the wire loom behind the backboard.

Interesting. Maybe I'm just crazy then.

pinball_keefer Just a minor coding suggestion. It would be nice if the cannon load door didn't close so quickly after not having a switch hit on the upper play field. More times than I can count, I'll have a ball up there (usually in a multiball) and that door closes because the ball had been flopping around up there and not hitting a switch. Then I shoot for the door and the damn thing is closed.

I like that the door closes after not detecting any more switch hits. Maybe just extend the time a few more seconds before it closes?

Love the game man. Nice work.

Gotcha. I mainly notice it when the ship is rocking around a medium speed. Just enough to keep the ball up there by itself. Then you're trying to hit the balls with the flippers and happen to just miss the ball. The ball has a way of staying up there on it's own sometimes when the speed is just right.

Thanks for contemplating this.

I had a wire come off that coil as well on mine. First time I’ve ever seen a wire come off from bad solder...and I’ve been through a lot of games.

Agreed. I hit a mini wizard mode usually every other game or so. Sometimes two min wiz modes a game. It's just not really exciting to get to them though. There isn't a whole lot there yet. Really not much of an explanation of what to do either. I love the hobbit wizards modes. They are incredible and exciting. The rules are laid out very well on the mini LCD screen.

Hopefully the new coded update spices those up. Keefer doesn't ever seem to let me down.

pinball_keefer Another suggestion. I love that you can qualify port royal multiball with 2 skill shots to the pearl. What I don’t like is that when you qualify it with the second skill shot, the pearl “resets” and starts you over. I love loading and shooting the cannon. It would be cool to still let you load the cannon and shoot, then award and activate black pearl if/when you drain off the upper play field OR sink the ship. It could also award more points if you sink the ship too.

Can anyone tell me what’s going on with 666666 multiball? I’ve been there a few times. I know how to get there. I just don’t understand the advantage of getting there. Are all shots worth more?

Yeah it just doesn’t make sense to buy a standard. You’re already $8.5k deep. What the hell is another grand for a ton more features and candy. I can’t wrap my brain around that one. I can imagine resale would take a hefty hit on the standard version.

Lol! I totally hear ya. That’s what happens when I’m buying a truck. I set my budget, next thing ya know I keep upping it because “it’s only a little more”.

I just feel that JJP sets the pricing on the standdard and LE to pretty much ensure nobody really buys the standard. Now if the standard were $8000 and the LE was $9500....now we are making sense. $1,000 separating the two just makes the LE an easy decision.

My screens blacked out on me the first day I got the game too. Hasn't happened since.

He is saying that the balls are getting magnetized and stuck in the chest. This happened to me as well when I switched balls. I installed some carbon balls and was good to go.

Get the silencer kit. I agree 100% that it's loud as f&%k from the factory. Blows my mind they send these things out the door like that.

Wow.....just....wow....

Those of you that have installed bigger clear washers under the sling posts, where did you get them?

For those that have switched the sling posts out for start posts, are you switching all 3 per side, or just 2 (top and bottom)?