Quoted from J_Striker:I paid mine in full about a month ago on a CE... hope I get it before production stops
Is production really going to stop? I want one but not right now
(Topic ID: 200141)
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Pirates of the Caribbean
Jersey Jack, 2018-
Pirates of the Caribbean (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
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Pirates of the Caribbean (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2018
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Quoted from zaphX:Thank you procrastinator, kingpingames, ltg and wheels !
You nailed it. Once we got the Pearl off (had to cut some zip ties to do this) the problem was indeed the green/brown wire on the gold spot target.
Once we soldered this in place everything worked great!
I feel very happy that we were able to get the game working on delivery day for my good pirate friend.[quoted image]
I know it’s pinball but I certainly wouldn’t expect this from a brand spanking new game right out of the box. I understand the very same thing happened to other owners. Glad you were able to fix the issue but not cool you had to do all that work right out of the box.
Quoted from iceman44:The movies suck, the last 4 anyhow. MBr is what it is. And its freaking gorgeous one of the best of all time pins.
If you want deep, go with POTC. Fun? I don't know, MBr is awesome.
Difficult decision for sure!
Quoted from skyrex:I enjoyed the movies but am more of a fan of the ride. Been annual pass holder for 20 years and my wife and I have had countless conversations in our customary seat in the back of the boat chatting about life and enjoying the scenery. And surprisingly the one in Paris is even better than the ones in the states. Bigger, longer and with more cool scenes.
This game has exceeded all my expectations. My first JJP....not because I haven’t enjoyed playing their previous offerings but none of the themes spoke to me. This one does. Immensely fun and while tied to the movies feels more like pirate theme pin than a movie pin. I have 2 permanent games of the 6 I keep in my house at any one time. This and Williams Indy are keepers. And the community is so passionate and helpful with this game. Fortunately my game has only needed a couple easy tweaks as my fix it skills are limited. But I will say that after stern Star Wars I swore off NIB before playing the game. I could not get a chance to play this but I took the plunge. JJP makes a better product period. There is no contest. Content and playfield are simply phenomenal. That is not to bash stern just an observation of someone who bought a half a dozen new stern before this JJP purchase. There is room for both manufacturers but I agree with some of the comments I have seen before in this thread. JJP goes all in and it shows.
I agree with you. JJP makes a better product than Stern period. I may soon be on the same boat as you as IJ is my only keeper so far! Love the whole pirate and map theme! I LOVE maps!
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Quoted from bigd1979:Understatement of the year lol.... potc is a excellent pin and offers so much more . Mb is a fun pin and all time classic with great theme, but there's really no comparison imo.
Isn’t it? Lol 
Quoted from skyrex:Haha we love maps too!!
Also off topic but looking forward to my IJ planes. You do great work too!! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow!!!!! Coool!!! Yes, your planes are next in line. I just started working on the Tiger moths. All of batch 2 is ready pending a few minor details. I’ll contact you via PM soon so you can tell me what you want done to them.
Sorry for getting a bit off topic!
2 weeks later
Quoted from SheriffBarclay:Seriously. Thanks zaph by the way..the solder worked!
On a side note, we've had a few posts of "No QC issues at all, vast majority of POTCs have had zero issues, the people posting are just a very small minority". Those posts really irritate me.
Back to silver ball!
The vast majority isn't good enough
I feel trapped! I want an LE, I’m ready to buy but I would like to play it first before pulling the trigger. Production is drying up, hoping to make it to the TPF to play a few games
Quoted from brett:I felt the same way as you George. I finally
I was lucky enough to play a few games on one though.
Nice! Good for you Do you think buying this pin without actually playing it first would be a mistake? I’m tempted to just pull the trigger now since TPF would be a last minute decision
Looking for a pin that has lots of stuff to do, sorta like IJ
Quoted from KingPinGames:Your concerns are valid. I always advise people to go find the game on location, drop $20 in it and see what it is like. If you want to push that start button again after 20 games then it is probably a good choice for you, if you want to walk away after 6 games, then you just saved yourself a lot of money. looking at the map though. it looks like the closest one to you is in Houston.
I better just wait and play yours at the TPF
Quoted from brett:I wished I could’ve played more games on it before pulling the trigger.
But with the few games I played, talking to friends and watching the Podcast, I decided to do it.
It’s an extremely fun game to play. It definitely has a lot going on with a deep code. I felt it would be a good fit to my collection.
Check with a distributor about how many they have. Maybe they’ll still have some after the expo.
There’s going to be HUO ones coming up for sale in the future.
Great advise
Quoted from zaphX:I live in Frisco TX (same city as TPF.). If you’re in town for TPF you’re welcome to come play at my place if you want a home experience.
Extremely humbled. Thanks!!!
Why are some of you wanting to buy a new playfield for a brand new machine? I understand production is gonna stop pretty soon. Are you guys concerned about the quality of the playfields? What’s the deal?
Quoted from zaphX:Just to have the ability to make it perfect one day N years from now. I’m not at all worried about wear (any more than any other pin.)
JJP offers them for sale which is the bug that got me thinking about it at all. Did not consider this previously.
I guess I would do the same thing if IJ playfields were available
2 weeks later
Are LE’s available at the TPF? Thinking of driving up there right now but only if LE’s are still available. Thanks!
Quoted from zaphX:I saw a couple in the Kingpin booth but with “sold” tags on them.
Darn it! I contacted a friend of mine and also told me the same thing. I was ready to make the drive just to play it and buy it but I better avoid the 8hr drive (each way) 
This POTC production stoppage really sucks!
Quoted from indypinhead:Contact Joe at PinballStar.
I think he might still have a few LEs
Thanks! Do you know his screen name?
Quoted from Moomert1:You're in my way, boy.
Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice!
Quoted from AUKraut:I spent several hours going thru every component, it finally got to the point that I knew the blocks would work best. So I went ahead and made them the most functional and painted them black, so they wouldn't look too out of place when the backglass is removed. Ideally something like them should be used in all JJP backbones IMO.....
Can someone post pics of this issue and what blocks are needed to support the screen?
Quoted from estrader:Joining the club...can anyone help point me to a list of must have mods? What are favorites?
You should first try the list of must have fixes 
Quoted from Raptor:I don't have a photo of the issue.
The monitor sits lower on the right side causing part of the grey monitor frame to be seen at the top right of the clear window in the backglass.
Here is my solution, the yellow blocks between the monitor and bottom of the backbox prop the monitor up and hold it level.
The one on the left isn't strictly necessary, but assures the monitor is sitting level.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks! Are those wooden blocks?
Quoted from zaphX:JJP has proven to be very responsive and attentive to issues in the forum, so it’s likely that most of the known trouble spots are sorted out.
We know (thanks to user reports) that the “subway fix” is shipping now.
If you notice any other proactive fixes on your machine I’d love to hear about it. For example I’m curious if the wires behind the Dauntless are factory-protected with wire loom now.
What about the Pearl wire issue? Has tht been taken care of?
Quoted from DougPiranha:I bought a SE from Classic Game Rooms and it did not come with balls, cord or coinbox.
Was all that stuff in the game or in the box?
I went through the box 3 times and no parts.
Quoted from wesman:Yes.... The one with the screw, and all other foam too.
My friend and I even checked the back box to make sure no wires were obstructing.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Quoted from wesman:The one on the right is fine, left is super snug.
[quoted image]
Adjust the receiver
Quoted from KingBW:Revisiting the sling posts issue ... I bought the star post replacements as preventative precaution and found that mine has clear washers installed the same size as the posts. My build date is 1/15/19. Just an FYI. I replaced the posts anyway.
[quoted image]
Is this a sign of improved QC?
Quoted from joseph5185:zaphx
Well unfortunately...
My black pearl is no longer running.
So I managed to fix a couple things and break something else.
All I did essentially was lift the playfield straight up and rest against the back box to get to the shooter assembly and when reseating .. I no longer have a rocking black pearl ..
=(
Wow! Sorry to hear that! Hope you get it going again. Such a shame JJP’s customers have to be fixing all these issues right out of the box! 
Quoted from screaminr:These are from the CE thread if anyone missed it , best shooter mod I've seen .
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I would be interested. Who sells these? Super cool!
Would you guys say that the permanent fix for the shooter rod catching the auto plunger is adding weather stripping under the hooks? Really?
Quoted from PinMonk:Yeah, that screw under the ramp should have been a mini post (I might still make it one...). On the one we have the screw is pressing up into the ramp and has started to deform it.
Can you post a pic?
1 month later
Errrrr!!! Errrrr!!!! New LE member here reporting for duty 
Actually, I just sold my home and got into a temporary one while our new home gets built, which will take a while. Got the urge to sell it (Pirates pin) due to lack of space, but looks like I may be Ok for now. Will debate selling it inside the box, but keeping it for now.
Wanted to unbox it really bad but since I know it’s really heavy and that eventually it will have to be moved into the new home, I think it might be a good idea to leave it inside the box until we move into our new home. Keeping it in the box will make moving or selling it a breeze.
From the looks of it, the machine seems fine (only opened the box to take a look ) but I do feel the urge to unbox it and make sure everything is working properly since I know it will take (if I don’t sell it) at least 8 months for us to move into our new home and for me to actually unbox it. Will JJP still take care of me (hopefully it isn’t necessary) after taking that long to unbox it?
I’m particularly worried about the reported playfield chipping around the sling posts. I wanted to address that right away but looks like I won’t be able to. Will it get worse the longer I take to address it if in fact there is some of that going on? Fingers crossed! Thanks!
FF15FA7E-5406-4FD9-81AE-A23C5CA30D09 (resized).pngCEDBE44F-B9EC-41DB-8371-379D5477FDAE (resized).jpeg236A86DC-F012-4385-B0D7-3E895CD3D712 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from wesman:Congratulations, and I'd just open now. 8 months is a long, long time...
Thanks! You say long time to play it or to inspect it?
Quoted from Axl:Here is the easiest and final solution to stop playfield wear:
[quoted image]
Looks like I’m golden!
Looking into getting the disk silencer (among other things) myself. Does this kit silence the disk for good or do you still have some lingering noise? This, to me, might be the most important upgrade of all
Quoted from BladeFury:Agreed that's why I didn't buy it and bought Mod Couple railing instead...ordered the whole list from Mod Couple and this ladder from Mezel Mods.[quoted image]
Personally, I like the ladder idea but IMHO it’s too damn big compared to the boat itself. Just saying....
Quoted from joseph5185:Nice!
What did that run you?
I paid a local moving company a few hundred to get AFMr upstairs after the agony of enlisting my friends with Pirates.
NO ONE wanted to go through that again. Though AFMr would have been a little easier given the body and weight.
Hey, best advice for moving a pin to another room? Remove the legs, fold the backbox down?
Yes, set a big furniture blanket on the floor. Fold the head and secure it with shrink wrap. Remove the rear legs and drop the machine on the blanket and set it upright. Remove the front legs if necessary. Then just pull on the blanket and move your pin to the other room. Then simply reverse the process. ****Don't forget to remove the balls******
3 months later
How heavy is Pirates? Will a 300lb (max load) bar stool be able to support Pirates while I install the rear legs? I plan on installing the front legs first then lift the rear end and rest it on this bar stool. The machine is still in the box. Thanks!
Thanks guys! I got the HF lift cart, but I find it difficult to wedge it under the cab when the front legs are on the ground. I do plan on immediately putting it to use as soon as it’s resting on the stool to help support the load. I just hope the stool can withstand that minute or so while I get the cart in place
Quoted from anathematize:Fwiw I believe ‘weight rated’ items usually bake in a little wiggle room when it comes to maximum loads. So I would imagine an extra 30lbs for a few minutes would be just fine. Especially if you had an extra set of hands helping out for those couple minutes.
Caveat emptor and all that jazz
I agree with you. Only problem is, only the wife can lend a helping hand atm and the stool is from HF 
Quoted from harryhoudini:Not sure if this has ever been posted about (I don't recall it) or if it's even a thing, but I did a thing so here it is. Someone just messaged me about a huge gap between the BP and the ramp. I recalled that I did this little "fix" to prevent the front/back motion on the BP. The tolerances are just too much on the various mounting bits and it lets the BP move front to back, which I don't think it needs. I just put a few washers on the pin to move it as far forward as it could go. I don't know the size, I can measure tomorrow. I just grabbed a few washers that I had in my washer bin, ideally I think nylon makes the best for less wear.
Not sure if this solved the issue kornfreak28 has with the gap (image attached) but it seems like it would be the most reasonable way to get the BP closer to the ramp. My BP has virtually no front to back movement now.
It's a bit tricky to get the washers on there and get the pin installed, definitely a pain each time you remove it. I'll make a small 3D printed washer to go there if I can't find one that fits right, if anyone needs/wants it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks! Looking at your pic, it looks like you installed the washers from the inside? Can you take a pic the rear top pin/white spacer area to see how much gap you have? My machine sat inside the box for close to 4 months. Wondering if this caused the BP to move back? Sorry, I’m very new at this machine.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Here's a video on the washer thing. I'm going to print out a washer that fits there for myself along with a protector plate for the backboard where the actuating arm bushing rubs (mine is starting to wear the wood down). I'll add the BP actuating kit to the store if anyone wants it.
Thanks for the explanation. Awesome video! I’ll get some along with other stuff I want from your store. Thanks!
Quoted from arzoo:I only removed the lifted Mylar by the map hole, the rest I left in place.
Why are you guys removing the mylar though? I just unboxed mine and I noticed some hints or what it looks like mylar in some areas. Are you guys removing that? Why?
I wanted to install better mylar but not sure if the factory one needs to be removed first? I wanted to install mylar on my slings, and all the kickouts just like I did with my old Metallica. It worked out great. I do plan on removing the BP very soon to install cliffy's, dremel out the bracket that sticks out of the loop ball guide, and all that other good stuff. Besides cliffy's what else did you guys do back there with the BP off the game? I also plan on reflowing solder to the BP wires just to be on the safe side.
What about the rubbers in this game? Are you guys changing them for Titans? Is it for cosmetic reasons or because of poor quality? Can you guys share the rubber ring sizes for this game?
Quoted from PinballTilt:What is this loop ball guide bracket you speak of? I get very slow feeds through the inner loop and suspect something may need adjusted - could be this?
I'll look or take a pic later but basically it's behind the BP on the loop. I believe this bracket holds the backboard to the playfield. Part of the bracket sticks out past the ball guide. If your ball(s) hit it, it will affect the ball's speed and/or trajectory not to mention possible damage to them. Take this bracket out and grind off the part that sticks out.
Quoted from roddog:So this happened again the other day while collecting gold. I ensured everything was plugged in tight to the mother board in the backbox. Has this happened to anyone else?
I saw this in one of the videos. Some guys from JJP were playing it. They laughed it off but didn't mention the reason why it happened. Concerning to say the least.
Quoted from javagrind888:I only have a bit of pooling around my adjustable outlane posts on one side. Other than not being able to adjust the difficulty, everything seems ok and the coat seems hard. Should I be worried about these issues?
What do you mean by “not being able to adjust the difficulty”?
Quoted from harryhoudini:Here is a video of what I was talking about.
Forgot to get a pic, here is a crappy screen cap where you can see the wear on my backboard.[quoted image]
Looks like a homerun to me! Nice job!
I’m having an annoying issue. I keep having balls get lost when get go behind the BP via skill shot, port royal or any soft soft around the loop. Game goes into search mode and eventually the ball is released into the BP (VUK) and to the playfield. I did notice the VUK has a hard time pushing the ball up into the BP. The ball makes it to the BP when the VUK fires and the BP is tilted to the left. I’m pretty sure this is what I saw. The VUK tries for a few times and then stops. Thinking the BP may be too far back or something? My daughter played a game and she hit the port royal lane. Ball got lost for a good long while. Anybody know what it’s going on here?
Also, is it normal for this wireform to be slanted like this? Thanks!
BEC3D030-0C9B-489D-9BFF-AB6EC80BEA80 (resized).jpegQuoted from T7:I was having a similar issue. Try raising the front legs so the game is at less of an incline and see if it happens less often.
I think the ball sometimes gets stuck in the subway leading to the VUK, as there is not much of an incline in the subway. The higher the incline of the game, the less of an incline in that subway.
I’m already pretty high back there. The level bubble is all the way to the apron side. I’m going to remove the BP very soon to install cliffy’s and whatnot. Hoping to find the reason for this very annoying lost ball issue. If anybody has a fix for this, please let me know.
What about the wireform? Is that normal?
Quoted from wesman:Mine is a bit wonky too, most likely from removing the Pearl ramp, and not finding the sweet spot once reassembled.
Are you also getting lost balls back there?
Quoted from harryhoudini:Do you still have that big gap between the BP and the ramp? Can you lift up the BP (meaning it is not in the mounting pins all the way)?
If the VUK isn't kicking the ball up with enough force then you can change the setting and increase the power. Most people have turned it down because it had so much force it was hitting the spinner optos on the BP. You want just enough power to make it up the VUK scoop. This really only applies if the issue is the ball isn't getting kicked up with enough force the first time. If the ball gets lost first then I would check the VUK switch and just roll the ball in there manually in test mode and see if the switch registers each time and if the VUK fires properly.
I don't know how many times it might try to kick it up the VUK before stopping. I know that other coils stop after a bunch of tries (like the chest release, if the optos aren't aligned). So depending on what the sequence of events is, maybe it's hunting for the ball after not being able to kick it up?
If the ball is having trouble when the ship is tilted, I go back to my first questions. If the BP isn't installed right or there is a broken mount then it likely is not aligned well for the VUK. It's somewhat tight clearances back there and I could see the ship blocking the exit.
That ramp shouldn't be tilted, no. How's the top end of that near the BP? Is the BP clear ramp aligned now? Is the wireform inserted in to that ramp properly? If so, worst case you can use some channel lock pliers and a rag to bend that front mount a bit.
Well, yes and no. I pulled the BP and the gap got a lot closer to the point I can play the game now BUT I know that’s not normal. I’ll report my findings in a few days. Thanks!
Quoted from wesman:No. I did get some stuck on the diverter on the left side of the ramp. I tried the lil plastic furniture nubby on top of the screw trick via ZaphX.
Is this to lift the ramp on that side?
Quoted from EaglePin:My wire is twisted a bit at the end the exact same way. Hasn’t been an issue for me. The only problem I had with the wire was it was a bit too low by the Tortuga Tom pop bumper and it caught balls sometimes, but I just slightly bent it up in that spot and it’s all good.
One less thing to worry about, Thanks!
Quoted from harryhoudini:Do you still have that big gap between the BP and the ramp? Can you lift up the BP (meaning it is not in the mounting pins all the way)?
If the VUK isn't kicking the ball up with enough force then you can change the setting and increase the power. Most people have turned it down because it had so much force it was hitting the spinner optos on the BP. You want just enough power to make it up the VUK scoop. This really only applies if the issue is the ball isn't getting kicked up with enough force the first time. If the ball gets lost first then I would check the VUK switch and just roll the ball in there manually in test mode and see if the switch registers each time and if the VUK fires properly.
I don't know how many times it might try to kick it up the VUK before stopping. I know that other coils stop after a bunch of tries (like the chest release, if the optos aren't aligned). So depending on what the sequence of events is, maybe it's hunting for the ball after not being able to kick it up?
If the ball is having trouble when the ship is tilted, I go back to my first questions. If the BP isn't installed right or there is a broken mount then it likely is not aligned well for the VUK. It's somewhat tight clearances back there and I could see the ship blocking the exit.
That ramp shouldn't be tilted, no. How's the top end of that near the BP? Is the BP clear ramp aligned now? Is the wireform inserted in to that ramp properly? If so, worst case you can use some channel lock pliers and a rag to bend that front mount a bit.
I’ll take a look tomorrow but the machine plays fine. Ball rolls normally on that wireform.
Quoted from KingBW:Don't do this ^^^ as the middle of the wire form will likely deform with the way it is designed. My attachment post was even bent.
I had the same issue. Is the wire form at the other end contacting the top of the twirling pop bumper under the ramp (LE) and also the top of the Tortuga scoop? I had that. I got another wire form and it was twisted the same way. To help resolve 2 of the 3 issues, I bent the right side wire form connection to the BP (bent it down maybe 1/8-1/4") using two sets of channel locks to not break the wire form connections to itself. Use a rag to protect the surface finish if you can. Be very careful with it though. I think a few of us got some wire forms that were twisted out of tolerance. On most pins, the wire form isn't touching the Tortuga scoop.
Just my input on it ...
Did you get a free replacement from JJP?
Quoted from statsdoc:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/10#post-4966440
I put a rubber bumper above it and that prevented it from damaging the balls if you don't want to pull it out and shave it down.
Can you post a pic of that rubber bumper?
Quoted from statsdoc:Yes. My approach was to simply keep the ball off of the t-nut. Pulling it out and grinding it may bring a new set of problems.
What new set of problems do you speak of?
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:With the playfield in the upright position I hand filed the t nut down which took all of 5 minutes. All the filings stayed in the bottom of the trough. Vacuumed out and then wiped out well too. It's a 10 minute fix at best.
Did you remove the subway?
Quoted from EaglePin:Most likely rolled under the BP and then through the hole in the playfield under the BP that the BP wiring goes through.
Sorry but how did it get stuck there? I just don’t see it. Sorry, I’m pretty new at this machine
I know exactly why now. When the VUK tries (and fails) 2 times to make it up to the BP the ball somehow gets stuck there.
BP doesn’t seem to be blocking the ball’s path
Quoted from koops:Did you move the bp so that it’s closer to the clear ramp?
I would have thought there wouldn’t be enough space for the ball to fall through after getting kicked up and then falling back on to the one way gate.
Yeah it’s closer now. I just pulled the BP and it moved. There’s still a gap but now the ball rolls freely to the clear ramp. When I hit the port royal shot, I immediately looked at the VUK, The ball is not hitting the BP at all.
Not sure why the VUK fails to push the ball up though. I don’t have a manual with me (would love to buy one) but I’ll try increasing the power to it.
Quoted from harryhoudini:There's no buying a manual, as far as I know.
http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/potc/POTC_Manual%202_0%20November%202018.pdf
Maybe we could do a group buy on getting them printed and bound? Anyone else want one?
F yeah! Count me in!
Will the game function without the BP hooked up? I want to see what the hell is going on with the VUK and getting the ship out of the way would help a great deal. I want to hit the port royal shot without the BP on the playfield. Possible?
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:My hand is raised. Count me in if you have some to sell.
Murphy
Mine too! I sent a PM this morning....
Quoted from harryhoudini:1/4" socket with long extension or maybe a nut driver. Or maybe carefully with pliers from under the ramp if you don't have one.
Dang! I thought about that but the bumper cap and ramp get in the way. Do I really have to remove or loosen the clear ramp to remove the ship if I remove the VUK? I would rather not mess with that ramp unless it’s totally necessary.
Also, Does the PF rests it’s weight on these wire forms? Not sure if I should trust them or not. Sorry guys, first JJP here
534FADE0-E7D9-4AAE-91E8-DE54987344DA (resized).jpegQuoted from harryhoudini:Yeah, under the ramp
I don't think you have to remove the BP ramp if you do the VUK. I may have said that, I may be wrong. Mine's been off for a while so I forget.
You could put a towel over the backbox to help cushion it. I've never had an issue.
Thanks Scott! How many wires in total below to the ship? Don’t wanna mess this up
Btw, I think I know why the ball can’t make it up the VUK (power is all the way up) The gate is grinding the VUK’s walls.
Definitely not moving freely. We’ll take a closer look once I get it out
Thanks guys! Having trouble removing the shooter lane wire form. When I try loosening this nut, the whole post (with T-nut) gets loose. The post, of course, can’t be removed since there’s stuff blocking it. Did you guys hold the post with pliers or something?
06EB0FB5-EE9C-4B99-BFF6-B4808CB148C7 (resized).jpegQuoted from EaglePin:If you're only removing the shooter lane wire form to get at the Pearl, I don't
I might be wrong, but I don't remember needing to remove the shooter lane wire form to get the Pearl & VUK off (assuming that's why you're looking to remove the shooter wire).
Oh really? I think I saw that in Scott’s video not sure. Isn’t it necessary in order to get to the plastics on the side?
Quoted from harryhoudini:I think you're right. The screw to remove the metal "man overboard" should be able to be reached under the end of the ramp.
Too late for me. I pulled the other nut and the tiny screw. This nut just win’t budge and the whole post keeps turning. Can’t just pull the ramp up since there is a plastic that prevents that.
I do still wanna remove it since I plan on installing titan rings all over this thing and there are 2 right there
887C5034-5E98-44FB-9338-EB8DC73CFC4D (resized).jpegSo it’s pretty much impossible to remove the nut without loosening the darn post. What a nightmare! Now I can’t put the t-nut back in since the post is still in there.
Thanks both EaglePin and Scott, you guys rock! I’ll settle down and take things step by step. I put the wire form back on for now and was able to get the VUK and BP out! I used foam blocks to avoid any damage to it
53155467-5801-49BC-9A99-01BA5543AF3A (resized).jpegBD2DA509-58CE-4FEA-96EB-0BDC54231D08 (resized).jpegEE8040A8-B8D0-4FAC-9634-F42D6808FCB9 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Just a word of warning. I've seen too many people "accidentally" break a solder connection by sitting the BP down like you have. I would reccomend standing it up on the BACK exposed wood on top of a towel (I leaned mine into the back of a plush chair). There's nothing on the backside to come undone. When someone sat her on the front exposed wood they broke off a lantern. Just trying to help. Be patient. Don't get flustered. If I can remove the BP and put her back on without incident - ANYONE can. LOL - Murphy
Thanks! I did place a block of foam on the cannon metal and another block of foam on the flipper coil metal assemblies. I do plan on reflowing solder to any suspect areas just to be on the safe side. I placed bubble wrap all around the ship and sealed the box. I thought about your idea but I don't have a big enough box rest it on the rear exposed wood and I have a 5 and a 4 year old at the house....You figure out the rest
Quoted from bgwilly31:Ive never had the BP out. It scares me to touch the thing. lol
But i will check the screw you mentioned. Hopefully its simple. Thank you all.
It's easy! There's nothing to it! As long as you disconnect the cables and remove the VUK, it's rather simple to remove the ship. People make it sound a lot harder than it really is
Quoted from RTS:Yeah, I was stupid. It's the slow rocking that would catch the ball for me. It hardly seems like it was rocking when it's slow compared to other times when it rocks more preventing the ball to catch.
Is the speed based on certain modes or shots?
Quoted from koops:How'd you do yours? remove everything like in the tech thread? I found that I could just cut if off with everything in place. Used a couple of strong magnets to catch the bits of metal.
Cut thru the edge enough that you could bend the tooth out with pliers. Cut it off then make it smooth. Also smoothed the other one where it was pushing the wood out also.
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Well I had the need to remove the ship to install the map hole cliffy, put mylar in the chapter select area, and to trim this bracket as well. If you don’t plan on removing the ship, Your method looks great
How’s the BP ramp support coming along?
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Quoted from GamerRick:That’s great. Are you selling it? That ramp design is horrible. How they couldn’t figure out the ball would get stuck there is beyond me. I’ve struggled to get it to work. Only thing so far that works is a thick yellow post rubber under the ramp over the sling protector. Looks terrible though. Would love a more elegant solution
Quoted from koops:Finished the ramp support.
It took quite a few revisions
Check for collisions with the pearl tilted as far right as it can go.Check it actually works and the ball can't get stuck
Thingiverse download link : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3872733
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Great job! 
Quoted from GamerRick:That’s great. Are you selling it? That ramp design is horrible. How they couldn’t figure out the ball would get stuck there is beyond me. I’ve struggled to get it to work. Only thing so far that works is a thick yellow post rubber under the ramp over the sling protector. Looks terrible though. Would love a more elegant solution
Can you post a pic?
Quoted from GamerRick:Do you mean of the rubber post sleeve? I actually have a second one which I’m going to paint brown so you don’t see it as much but until I find a better solution this is my solution I’ve tried multiple other things nothing works including all of the advice in this thread.
I meant a pic where it’s supporting the ramp.
Quoted from GamerRick:Yes I thought that’s what you meant. I figured a photo of it in place. Yes later today I’ll take the glass off and get some closeups. I used the head of the screw on the top part of the sling protector to hold the sleeve from sliding back. All other attempts always failed because whatever I wedged in there would slide back until there was no pressure and the ball would still get stuck. This was the only thing I ever found that was perfect size to catch the head of that screw so that it would hold in place properly and not slide back and fail after 20 minutes. Super annoying. Had to take the glass of 40-50 times to get a stuck ball that even shaking the pin wouldn’t get to come off that ramp.
Sounds great, Thanks!
Quoted from GamerRick:Here ya go. Was actually Able to get decent photos with the glass on so let me know if this isn’t good enough. You can see the base of the sleeve resting against the top of the screw head holding the plate on top of the swing under the ramp.
Here’s the link to the actual rubber post:
https://www.pinballlife.com/rubber-bumper-sleeve-yellow-34-x-58.html[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Whatever works! Thank you!
Quoted from GamerRick:They only make the sleeve in yellow so I’ll paint mine brown. I found it surprising how few different posts and sleeves were actually available online at least as I could find.
You could also file down the front part at an angle (See pic) so the post is flush with the ramp. That may even provide better support. Just an idea....
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Quoted from GamerRick:The Map Hole Cliffy protector goes on first then you put the smaller metal deflector on second and the ball deflector guide last
Quoted from GamerRick:The Map Hole Cliffy protector goes on first then you put the smaller metal deflector on second and the ball deflector guide last
Thanks!
Quoted from GamerRick:Make sure you have the ball deflector (part that goes above the hole) lined up correctly or it will kick balls out of the Map Hole. Point it slightly left of center.
Will do. I will test the map hole, tortuga, VUK subway and the VUK with the ship out of the game to make sure they are firing on all cylinders. I’ll also check and make sure the map and tortuga holes aren’t sending balls stdm. Thanks!
Quoted from GamerRick:Or probably a design error. It’s such an easy fix too they can re-engineer that gate piece which is separate from the ramp and literally probably cost about four cents in parts and send a new gate to everyone all you remove is a couple screws and install simple.
I’m lost. What’s wrong with that gate? Sorry, I’ve only played a handful of games....
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I printed it yesterday - literally MINUTES before he posted the adjustable one! LOL. I will give it a try this evening. Man, today has been a total pinball miss! Wrong part from a mod shop so I can't install, now the game is disassembled, POTC still not lighting the Pearl, and my STTNG has some weird play in the cannons! arrrrgh!
Are you printing the second version? If so, I would love to hear your thoughts on both. Thanks!
Quoted from harryhoudini:Might look better in a darker color, heh. Testing out some options here.[quoted image]
Awesome!
Quoted from harryhoudini:Yes, but will the Stern one have less clear coat issues?
Quoted from koops:Do you put your best coders on 100’s of extra hours on a game that will not ship an extra unit or onto something that can keep employees paid and the lights on?
I say that would be the right thing to do wouldn’t you agree? The game is not complete without the final wizard mode. We paid big money for this game. We expect, at the very least, a complete game.
Quoted from LesManley:I'm absolutely ecstatic to say that I joined the club this weekend. Put my old Wrestlemania Pro towards it as partial trade and drove just under 4 hours each way with my kids yesterday to complete the deal. Came with an unused brand new plastic set and extra ship motor too. I loved JJP Pirates from the first time I played it, but I never thought I would be picking up one of these anytime soon. Super excited to have it in the lineup, it will keep me entertained for a long time to come.[quoted image]
Congrats! Did the previous owner buy a new motor to have as spare or something?
Quoted from GamerRick:I called already to order the spare parts I was worried about, they were out of stock on everything. Disconcerting. I hope they stock parts to keep the pins in the field working for a long time. Would totally suck if something went on it and the machine could not be repaired.
Did they say they were restocking these parts?
Quoted from heni1977:I don't know if this is a win or not?
When your wife get's to plunder a ball from you and she say's, Why do I need a extra ball when I have both of your's in my purse!
Quoted from 3pinballs:So getting rid of that rubber piece helped lower the ramp that much to prevent balls getting hung up on the gate? If so, that's great to know.
Quoted from 3pinballs:So getting rid of that rubber piece helped lower the ramp that much to prevent balls getting hung up on the gate? If so, that's great to know.
What rubber piece?
Quoted from luckymoey:There is a small, black rubber ring that the screw goes through before attaching to the ramp post.
I'm always hesitant to remove something from the original design unless there is no other solution. Some other problem usually shows up for me. This isn't something that should vary so much game-to-game even with POTC quality issues. The ball was hanging up on the one-way gate on my game, but I was able to fix by tweaking the screws at the bottom of the ramp and post screw. It's the only game I've seen where the flap screws don't seem designed to be fully tightened.
Curious: How did lowering the ramp help in the one-way gate area though? I’m amazed how that didn’t make the ball get trapped there even more....
Quoted from luckymoey:I didn't really lower the ramp, just tilted it slightly more toward the right by tightening the post screw down a little on the rubber, and tweaking the flap screws so that the one on the right was a little tighter than the other one.
Cool! Thanks!
Quoted from koops:This is what I initially did ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/40#post-5168721 ).
This caused the secondary issue of dropping my left side of the ramp and hence the entire reason for me making the support in the first place.
Are you still working on the final version?
Quoted from PinMonk:Yes. There's one behind the chest that you have to have a long screw or nut driver to get to because you have to kind of angle it behind the mini-coil area to get to it where it connects the bracket to the playfield.
Thanks, I’ll check it out. Did you apply mylar to these posts? (Meaning removed the chest?) Is even worth the effort in that area?
Quoted from EaglePin:Here’s a picture of it with the screw circled in yellow. It’s not super easy to get at and you might want a magnetic tip to put it back in.[quoted image]
Awesome! Could stuff in the chest possibly get out of alignment or something if I take it out? Is there anything I should watch out for?
Quoted from PinMonk:Snaps onto The Depths on the left.
Rest the part without the hole on the front edge of the scoop hole and then work the part with the hole and the bend so it snaps under the playfield. It kind of slides in at an angle then snaps into place with the spring action.
Cool! Sounds easy enough. Why does it have a hole in it? Are we supposed to use a screw? Thanks brother!
Quoted from Energyspike:My Cliffy came loose twice so I added a screw to the underside of the playfield for the Cliffy. Had to remove the VUK to do so...
I’ll make a note of it. Thanks!
Quoted from gliebig:I think POTC code right now is pretty impressive.
We all agree. It's just not complete
Quoted from kidchrisso:EXACTLY THIS^^ but more is better
Just as JJP expected and got full payment for this game, we all expect a full and complete game. It's not like we only paid 90% of the sales price.....Whether they are making more or not, that's besides the point.
Quoted from PtownPin:well said....JJP has a great track record of not only finishing the code, but enhancing it....if they completely abandon a product then it really says a lot about the company...I've also heard rumors that they stopped stocking spare parts (not sure if this is true or not), which is clearly an issue. I'm hoping they make a statement about code this weekend.
If they stop stocking parts for this game and leave us hanging, that would also say a lot about them.
1 week later
Quoted from arzoo:I also noticed there's a small unused hole (about screw size) behind the top rail just to the left of the opto mount. It's very close to the back wall, about 3/4" from the rail. Wonder what it was intended to be used for? I might be able to secure and L bracket between the back of the rail and the playfield using that hole, which should theoretically reduce the flex in the rail. Although I could drill a new hole anywhere back there to mount the L bracket.
LTG, What do you think about this? Would this be a possible solution?
Quoted from harryhoudini:I was able to get the ball to hit the bracket with my hand but never investigated further since I just cut it and then I didn't have to worry; eliminated one possibility.
Could easily make a support for there, it would be very strong.Could make a part to fit here as well. Not sure how well a printed part would hold up to ball wear but I would bet pretty good if printed in a good material and solid.
Worth a shot
Quoted from PtownPin:Did you ever resolve this issue? My ramp performs fine, but the basket end sits up about 30 degrees. I'm a little hesitant to twist. I did reach out to JJP and they told me the wire form is out of stock, and that its "normal", which isn't a satisfactory answer. I asked if it was ok to twist, but haven't gotten a response. I'm hesitant to do anything if they don't keep parts in stock.
I say leave it alone. If the game plays normally and JJP is out of stock, there is really no reason for you to risk it (fuck with it) at this point. Wait till they are back in stock before you do anything.
3 weeks later
Quoted from EaglePin:This does the trick to solve that issue:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/227#post-5094603
This is the sleeve I put on mine. You have to take the Black Pearl off to get at it but it's a great idea to do it to prevent balls sticking between the sling post and the star map entry post and to prevent wear on the sling rubber. (note you don't have to dremel the post to make it work).
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-5151
EaglePin Does the chest have to come out in order to put the sleeve on?
0D8CDE8F-2CC6-4DD3-8242-88156849FE45 (resized).jpegQuoted from EaglePin:I didn’t remove the chest. I just removed the screw that holds the chest into the playfield to give it enough wiggle room for getting those top pieces off the post.
Thank you!
Quoted from zaphX:Yes, make sure that L bracket on the left of your photo is on top of the deflector, not under it.
Will do, Thanks!
Just tried the deflector with some actual game shots from the upper flipper and the balls gets rejected big time! So the deflector’s right side (picture) has to be higher than the left correct? All the way or half way?
02F5DDEA-5BBC-4169-8994-0EE5531928B5 (resized).jpegQuoted from EaglePin:Edit: let me double check when I get home where I put the washers. Might have been between deflector and Map 2 instead. I might have used some double sided tape between the Map Cliffys and then washers above Map 2 holes.
I appreciate that very much
Quoted from zaphX:You are over thinking it. The stack should be:
L Bracket
Deflector
Cliffy #2 (small)
Cliffy
Everything else about it is impossible to screw up. Yes it has an angle (it faces the center of the hole.) However it should not be tilted vertically, which is will be if the L bracket is under the deflector.
Tossing balls at it is different from playing games, it will be fine.
Thanks!
Quoted from EaglePin:I checked and I used double sided tape (just rolled some tape up to create double sided) between Map 1 and Map 2, and I put the rubber washers between Map 2 & deflector. Without using that stuff the deflector on mine wasn't staying put and it was rotating to a big angle (same as in your picture) from the force of balls hitting it.
The way I thought about what angle to set the deflector was that the path of the ball from about 1/3 of the way from the tip of the upper flipper to the Map hole isn't perpendicular. It goes at the hole at a slight angle. So if the deflector is parallel or mostly parallel with the back edge of the Cliffys, then the ball will hit it and still bounce a little to the right and go into the hole. For me it was deceiving to the eye because it looked like having the deflector at an angle like in your picture would be best, but when it was at that angle on mine it was rejecting almost all shots. I tried to get mine exactly parallel but I couldn't get it to stay there. It's only just very, very, very slightly angled though and after I got it to stay put that way with the washers the shots started going in the hole again like they did before I put the Cliffys on.
Awesome! Thanks!
1 week later
Quoted from LTG:Better picture.
LTG : )[quoted image]
You are a life saver! Much appreciated!
Quoted from LTG:Page C-134 and page C-135 item #7
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Page C-134 and page C-135 item #7
LTG : )
Thanks!
Quoted from EaglePin:In the manual it looks like the hex spacer under the right ramp is 2” and the post holding up the flasher is 2-3/8”. Here are pics of the flasher assembly as requested. Let me know if you need any more.[quoted image][quoted image]
That’s perfect! Thank you!
Quoted from Crunch:I am looking at used POTC and would like to know what problems / issues a used POTC may have?
Don’t be afraid. The only way to learn is to ask questions and get your hands dirty. Anybody can learn. Buy it! We’ll help you
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:I second this comment. My JJP has been bullet proof.
.....just jinxed it right there 
3 weeks later
Quoted from EaglePin:Couldn’t tell from your picture, but I took some shots of mine to see if they can help you figure it out. Let me know if you need any different angles of it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Basically, after Screwing down the the screw on the top, there is a HUGE gap between the ramp and the playfield here where 2 screws are at
776C94BE-2B13-4790-A4AE-68365E8CC82B (resized).jpegOk (so I don’t quote all 3 responses) Are you guys saying that the screws are not supposed to go all the way in? Can one of you please take a picture of these screws but from the side to see how much thread is sticking out?
Quoted from Yelobird:Looks fairly normal to me? The blue steel flap is supposed to act like a transitional bridge from the plastic ramp to Playfield.
I don’t have the BP installed yet. I’m going to test the map hole deflector first to see if balls go in or get rejected. I’m barely putting all this stuff back together after fixing all the little issues here and there.
When you guys removed this ramp, Did you install these tiny screws first and then the top screw or viceversa?
Quoted from EaglePin:I just snapped a couple more pictures of mine. You can see threads on my screws under the ramp (circled in the picture). Also, I took another of the wood screws and the transfer. The wood screws on mine aren’t holding the transfer flap, it looks like they’re only holding the ramp in place. Hope this helps.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks! So the threads are somewhat visible? Sorry can’t tell from the pic
If I unscrew the top screw and align the bottom flap screws with the holes, the top screw does not line up with the hex spacer.
Quoted from EaglePin:From that picture of yours it looks like your screw is farther back than mine. Mine is in front of the black line and clear wood line. Here’s another pic. You can see my screw is just inside that rectangle area. I’d think there should be screw holes from where yours were before. Can you line up with them?[quoted image]
If I line them up with the holes, just like it was and the screw head touching the ramp like it was before, the top screw is WAY off the hex spacer. This is how the top screw sits after I line up the flap screws
DA9D55F3-3C04-4D9E-A38E-D4E644B0E5D6 (resized).jpegQuoted from Yelobird:Ok looking at you last picture the issue is your ramp is not in the correct forward position. It needs to slide further forward. By eye look for the previous threaded holes and line it up correctly Then push it down.the butt end of the plastic ramp should fit in the milled pocket the provided. Really best to take lots of pictures Before you tear down your game.
Looks like that was the issue! It needed to go a bit forward. Thanks!
Quoted from Soulrider911:Glad you got it figured out was just about to chime in, as yes that ramp is kinda finicky to get in right
Tell me about it! I must say that Koops’/Scott’s ramp support is just what the doctor ordered!
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:Yes, that tall Hex Spacer is spot on right. Make sure your Black Pearl is seated properly towards the back of the pin as well. This will also cause improper ramp wiggle room.
I would suggest "slightly" threading each screw and nut to where the ramp can wiggle a bit before tightening down anything. My threaded wood screws that hold the ramp in place at the bottom are also slightly off being straight up and down. Mine screw in at the tiniest angle- leaning towards the flippers.
Thanks! I'm just about done with it. I changed all the rubbers for Titans and did a whole bunch of fixes to it. Installed Cliffy protectors as well
Quoted from zaphX:I spent yesterday in California prepping a CE for shipping to my house in Texas. Through the generosity of fellow collector reznnate i was able to get a full set of POTC CE packing materials and pallet. It should be well protected for the trip now.
The people I’ve met through this hobby are awesome.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
How did you manage to get that thing in the box?
Quoted from SuperMas77:Thanks Mike. It's definitely the transistor. Good thing this beauty is still under warranty. Now just need JJP to ship me a warranty replacement I/O board.
I wonder what would happen if you weren’t under warranty. Would they sell you a new board? Is the board repairable?
Quoted from Yelobird:As you (or someone) had to remove the stock assembled flippers to install that upper playfield protector my guess is you simply need to tighten the flipper pawls a bit more. Once aligned and tightened correctly I suspect you won't have any further issues. I like the mirror blades you installed.
Exactly this! Just remove the BP and tighten them and they won’t/shouldn’t move on you.
2 weeks later
Hello fellow Pirates! Check out what I did with Scott’s awesome galaxy plastic! I drilled a few holes, did the cut out for the star map connection and bam! They match perfectly and I kept the original parts in the game. I even painted the screw heads! Awesome job Scott!
B4F720FD-25B5-4B9F-B2FB-FE41E9478876 (resized).jpeg2C197930-487F-4FFF-951B-5DD2419F6E06 (resized).jpeg3D31B432-6174-4607-B5B7-1500629DC6DB (resized).jpegQuoted from V4Vendetta:On a positive note, I finally got done building my topper and I think it came out pretty sweet. Also added couple things to make the game my own so it doesn't look like everyone elses. The topper is made from a kit I bought on ebay made out of wood and it took about a month to build and paint. But mostly those strings for the sail probably took majority of time. It's kinda funny that for how long I've been lurking on this site, I've never actually posted any pics of my pins on pinside before so here it is. Thanks for looking and all criticism are welcome.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome job! Where did you find that monkey?
Yeah, but I think this one is different no? This one has legs. Not sure if they are the same or not. Are they? Both look great tho
Quoted from EaglePin:If it was working consistently before and now suddenly started going a different direction consistently then as statsdoc & others said try retightening first. If it's always been inconsistent in how it kicks out leading up to this then other fix ideas might be in order.
Did you also add washers to the Tortuga deflector like you did with the Map hole deflector? How is that one holding up btw?
Quoted from EaglePin:My map deflector has stayed locked in place and the ball goes in when it should, so I think that's in good shape for me. The kickouts from my Tortuga have still been 100% consistent since I put the foam on the plunger resting spot.
Plunger resting spot?
1 week later
Quoted from thirdedition:Different strokes for different folks I guess. I personally don't care for RGB GI short of attract mode light shows. Maybe I need new glasses, but I find it hard to see the ball when the colors changes too much.
Quoted from LesManley:I agree. Color changing GI can be okay on a color explosion game like WOZ or Wonka, but on a darker themed game like Pirates I don't think it translates nearly as well. Having a game like Pirates light up all neon pink looks out of place.
Are you guys SE owners by any chance?
Hello!
Any idea why the flippers would score 3 points each time they are activated? I also get the Arrgggrrr pirate sound each time.
Was testing it before installing the BP for good. Not sure if I installed something wrong or what?
Quoted from LTG:Tests - Switches - Matrixed - bang on playfield. Any switch register on the screen from vibration ? If so adjust it so it's less sensitive.
LTG : )
None at all. I banged everywhere on the playfield in test mode. Activated all the switches by hand, all the optos, all good.
Ran a coil test, all good....
The only one that could be suspect (pretty sure it activated briefly) is one called “pop bumper Area rubber 17”
I bang on it now, it doesn’t activate....
I think I found it! It’s the leaf switch behind the rubber by the pop bumpers. Looks like they are too close to each other....back to confirm....
Anybody know if washers go underneath this plastic on the posts?
Also, does anybody have any pics of how this shield is installed? Will it hit the cannon mod from Mod couple?
Any help is much appreciated
7A946946-6B49-4B78-B584-6F1D08B4F675 (resized).jpegA6292E1A-C917-438B-98FD-E221A98CE87F (resized).jpegQuoted from EaglePin:Is it the cannon shield from Pinball life? If so, I have it installed. Here's a link to a post I made about how it's installed. I don't have the mod so I don't know if it will hit it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/243#post-5196431
I don't think there are washers under the plastic.
It’s not from pinball life. It’s from a vendor in Germany I think. Thanks for the help!!!
Quoted from wesman:Same one, from what I know. Pinball life got their's outsourced from that German site.
Be careful, as the guard can be slightly high, once installed, and jam the Pearl's movement. First time for me, it worked great. Second time when I removed the Pearl, and reinstalled it, it didn't....
Thanks! My question is: Is it really necessary? How often do balls end up getting trapped in that area?
Quoted from wesman:If you don't have a wire mesh around the Pearl's wiring underneath, I've heard it can happen every once in awhile.
I'd like to reinstall the plastic guard I bought, but it feels like it needs shaved a bit down.
Wire mesh?
Quoted from Galooch:I actually have both installed. I put in the shield as I had a ball get pinned under my BP. I think that contributed to two wires that needed to be soldered back for the bonus switches. However, this could have been because their wires were too tight. A few others had the exact same issue so it was probably just that. Either way the shield gives me a little more piece of mind.
I put in the Mod couple cannon and found that it does need to stick on a little further out so it doesn’t interfere. It still works fine and I think it still looks great from the players perspective. I hope this helps.
[quoted image]
Yes it does! Thanks!
Quoted from wesman:Here ya go!
Alex Tech 10ft - 1 inch Cord Protector Wire Loom Tubing Cable Sleeve Split Sleeving for USB Charger Cable Power Cord Audio Video Cable - Protect Cat D amazon.com link »
Damn it! I put this type in. BP is still out of the game so I could easily swap it out for the mesh type. Did anybody use the one I used?
16B24751-884E-48F6-8C85-3EE72A69DAD9 (resized).jpegQuoted from wesman:I imagine you'll be just peachy!
Where’s Joseph btw? Haven’t seen him post in a looong time!
1 month later
Quoted from EaglePin:The holes in the plastic go on the two screws I circled in this picture. I’m not 100% sure, but I think I remember loosening the chest and lifting the chest bracket slightly off that middle nut to get in in and out of there. Had to loosen the screw holding the chest to the playfield to do it also.[quoted image]
Will do! Ty!
Any ideas on spotlights for this game? What type? What color (Natural white, Warm white, sunlight?) fits this game the most? Thanks!
Quoted from bigd1979:I think it has enough spots from the factory? It's a very well lit pin and looks to have cool white in the spots
I meant changing the factory bulbs for better quality ones. Wondering which white I should use as well
Quoted from zaphX:If it's the junk bulbs you want to replace - and who could blame you - I used:
OPMAX12VNW 12v Opmax (Optimus Maximus) - Wedge (555) / Cool White (Natural White)
That's exactly what I had in mind! I was just wondering if a warm white or sunlight white would fit the pirate theme better than a super bright Cool/natural white....Thanks!
Quoted from zaphX:Do vireland 's e-tape trick too and you'll never have them flake out or fall out again.
Will search for it Thanks!
I just started playing this game for real this week. I noticed last night that I would collect characters by just getting the ball somewhere near the required shot. Like one shot called for me to shot the right BP ramp and even though I bricked it, I still collected the character. Is this normal?
Also, Is it normal for the game to sometimes say “9 pieces of whatever we have left blah blah” when a ball (this happened at the start of ball 2, with Carina as character) is fed to the shooter lane and isn’t even launched yet?
The game also makes other (what I think are barrels or doors moving) little sounds before a ball is even launched.
Thanks!
Quoted from Dexje:1. thats a character trait - james norrington
2. yes - thats the red skull multiball
3. for random stuff, like out of place pirate sounds, go into switch test mode and shake the machine. i had a few too sensitive switches on mine.
Yeah, I’ve been playing Norrington a lot. Makes sense.
The machine doesn’t make random sounds during the game. It sometimes makes one (not sure what it is) when a new ball is fed into the shooter lane. Might be just part of the game tho
Quoted from Yelobird:The pirate lanes completed lights the shot to the left of the chest to collect the reward You selected with the button on the lock bar from the little screen in front of it. You pirate have some reading to do! lol JK
Lol
Quoted from EaglePin:I can hit the chest lock with the left flipper, but I can't backhand the Pearl ramp from the right flipper. My right flipper is at default power setting. I haven't tried increasing that power because I'm pretty happy with how all the other shots are set up currently and I'm thinking increasing that power would probably result in airballs off the Maelstrom.
I increased the flipper power a bit and can now backhand the BP with the right flipper, no problem.....
Quoted from EaglePin:Nice, what setting did you bump it up to?
Let me check when I get home......I think 23 but let me make sure
Quoted from arzoo:His skills are crazy good! How about trapping balls on the lower flippers and just using the upper flippers, amazing! And he makes it all look so easy.
WHAT? Is this really possible???
Quoted from zaphX:Sure! Your flipper buttons have two levels. Half-press for the lowers, full press for the uppers.
Both how can you trap a ball while hitting balls with the uppers?
By the way, I set my lower flippers at 28
Quoted from zaphX:Sure! Your flipper buttons have two levels. Half-press for the lowers, full press for the uppers.
I got it to work!
Quoted from LesManley:I finally took off my Black Pearl to install the rest of my cliffy set and give the game a good cleaning. I removed the vuk in the back right hand corner and noticed my vuk doesn't have a wire gate on it like Modfather's did in his Black Pearl removal video. My game seems to play perfectly. Any ideas what that gate is there for and what issues could pop up with out it?
Honestly, you don’t need it.....
Quoted from harryhoudini:You sure that's the right button? What is on the end of the plunger?
Nothing. This is the one I got...
9B63C1D0-B784-4078-A025-D3C395B2FD7F (resized).jpegQuoted from zaphX:There was a screw in the end of the original button. Remove it and screw it into the new one.
I just did! I also added the hot glue.it’s Been rock solid for 4 games now. Thanks!
Quoted from zaphX:The action on that Stern button is really great.
I just wasn’t sure if it was the button itself getting stuck OR the screw head was catching the switch arm somehow. A little bit of both maybe? It works great now and it makes a huge difference! Thanks!
Quoted from harryhoudini:Some test painting. Interior reflectors channel the light up to the lantern. Working on an antique glass pattern now so it will be a milky transparent glass that helps diffuse the light while letting you see it.
[quoted image]
Nice job!!!!
Is it normal for the outermost chapter select switches to get hit a lot less during random chapter select than the middle ones? I’m not 100% sure but it sure seems that way....
ECE809D2-C642-4983-B298-17214EEB3AA1 (resized).jpegQuoted from harryhoudini:Stick a skewer in there when in switch test mode and hit each one to see if they react the same. Might just need adjustment.
They register normally. I tested them extensively when the ship was out. I just figured the middle ones would get hit a lot more than the ones on the outside.
I know for a fact the one on the right has an opto housing behind it. Wondering if that has anything to do that switch not registering as often during random chapter select? I’ll keep a close eye....
Quoted from jarozi:Actually had a ball make it to the top of the apron. That one was a PITA to clear, as you pulled the glass down, the ball rolled down further binding the glass from sliding out. Fun fun. I raised the apron rail a bit, hopefully that prevents it in the future.
How did you manage to get that ball out of there?
1 week later
Quoted from PtownPin:Its frustrating that JJP doesn't have the cash to stock spare parts for this machine. I've been waiting on a wire form for months
What's wrong with it?
Quoted from Yelobird:Appreciate you sending that video. Yes that would be bit annoying no question. For those that didn't see it, basically it appears the rails were spaced just a Smidge to far apart so when the ball travels over the 1st and 3rd straight support wire it "clicks". Still willing to fix it as I think it could be done with minimal if any damage.
I will Try to describe how I would fix it. Basically the radius of the ball just comes in contact with the straight center of the bar. I would set the (off the game of coarse) wire form on a soft piece of pine wood. Using a round say 3/8" Metal dowel or socket even place it at that wires center. Using a vise or hammer, apply pressure to the dowel to create a Slight bow to the center of that straight wire. That applied pressure would Also slightly pull those rails together say 1/32". Combined I suspect that repair would be unnoticeable and fix the annoying sound. Hope this makes sense, still willing to fix it for you (Free) as we all have plenty of time these days lol...
Would it be possible to post this video? Thanks!
3 years later
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Negative
Wow! I’m so glad I sold the game! No code update, no support, no parts, no warranty, Bad playfields and Jack just confirmed NO Pirates Vault or re-run! They are 100% done with Pirates. Very sad! Great game!
Quoted from Green-Machine:I’m glad I didn’t sell mine. As a matter of fact I never even considered it, code or no final code. The game is very well rounded. We are sorry for your loss KornFreak28
That one stung a little 
Quoted from Green-Machine:Well…. Your comment just seemed a little, “in your face” commenting in the Pirate thread about how glad you are that you sold your POTC. Comes off as we are somehow missing out on not selling ours.
I can’t speak for everyone but your comment didn’t seem appropriate.
You can say whatever you like but I just wanted to express my feelings too.
No hard feelings at all.
Hahahaha not the case at all! You read WAY too much into my comment. I was just saying I was glad I sold it. You are glad you kept it…To each his own!
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