Quoted from Psw757:

Anyone know if the chest is supposed to release locked balls at game end?
I also had a game going where I think there were two locked in the chest and got into a multi ball where I drained one and it released a ball from the chest during ball save. Struck me as odd but maybe this is normal?

Quoted from LTG:

There is a screw in front of the hex post below the spot light on the right top side of the ramp. It runs through a rubber grommet. Turn it tighter to lower the ramp to the right so the ball rolls off the gate.
LTG : )

Quoted from tonycip:

I had my post stop working as well . I fixed by threading screw #8 in some that fixed it but my screw had a jam nut on it .its not shown in the drawing I tightened it and that should keep it from backing out. If your doesn't have the nut I would get one or use a removable lock tite (blue) .

Quoted from VillaThrills:

Ever get this resolved? I bent the gate so it sits more forward but the ramp has such a tilt to the left that I can’t bend it far enough to stop the issue. The ball travels downhill to the left and sits there against the gate. Gets stuck pretty frequently. Also my ship sits about an eighth if an inch above the ramp. Doesn’t seem to affect it though. Either way just doesn’t seem like the ramp isn’t shaped right to let the ball travel back on the right side ramp.

Quoted from Pdxmonkey:

You likely have a broken wire to one of those switches. Look for a green wire that broke.

Quoted from BrianBannon:

Pdxmonkey is right, you have a green wire broken under the ship. Those switches are daisy chained underneath the ship, look at the stand up target tabs on the last target that works. It should have a green wire that broke off of one of the tabs. Those wires were really pulled together in a tight bundle underneath the ship and they break right at the tab. Just fixed this problem last week. You will need to tilt the boat up to get at the switches. You will need a 1/8" hex wrench, a t-handle would be best, to remove the screw behind the ship. Then, pull the clip holding the arm that connects to the rod that runs through the back of the playfield. Once the arm and screw has been removed, push the ship toward the back of the game about a quarter to a half inch and that should move it off the brackets underneath. Then you should be able to move the ship up and to the left to get at the switches.
Switch 77 is unrelated and could be a broken wire or perhaps that switch hasn't been activated in a while--Just realized that switch 77 is an opto. On Pirates, the opto switches can come loose from wherever they are attached. These switches are real small, more than likely one side or the other has come loose and the opto beam is staying open. Look for a loose black switch on the top of the playfield in the orbit area. Snap it back in and you will probably be okay.

Quoted from BrianBannon:

Pdxmonkey is right, you have a green wire broken under the ship. Those switches are daisy chained underneath the ship, look at the stand up target tabs on the last target that works. It should have a green wire that broke off of one of the tabs. Those wires were really pulled together in a tight bundle underneath the ship and they break right at the tab. Just fixed this problem last week. You will need to tilt the boat up to get at the switches. You will need a 1/8" hex wrench, a t-handle would be best, to remove the screw behind the ship. Then, pull the clip holding the arm that connects to the rod that runs through the back of the playfield. Once the arm and screw has been removed, push the ship toward the back of the game about a quarter to a half inch and that should move it off the brackets underneath. Then you should be able to move the ship up and to the left to get at the switches.
Switch 77 is unrelated and could be a broken wire or perhaps that switch hasn't been activated in a while--Just realized that switch 77 is an opto. On Pirates, the opto switches can come loose from wherever they are attached. These switches are real small, more than likely one side or the other has come loose and the opto beam is staying open. Look for a loose black switch on the top of the playfield in the orbit area. Snap it back in and you will probably be okay.

Quoted from Energyspike:

Thanks, located the broken wire, did you pull the wire from the ziptie to get more length or just extend by adding another wire to it etc.? I'll look for the loose switch tomorrow...

Quoted from sirlonzelot:

Sometimes I have a crack in the speaker during gameplay, is that normal ?

Quoted from sirlonzelot:

You are Right . It was screwing too tight.
Thank you
When playing the white thing on the picture was flowing over the playfield. Any idea where it comes to ?
Is it possible to change the brightness of the Monitor i cant find a Setting.
Thanks
Greetings [quoted image]

Quoted from anathematize:

loving this game so far. such a deep experience and i feel like i've barely scratched the surface.
i've also noticed 'unfair' drains from the chapter select post drop and the tortuga mystery kickout that seem to get worse the longer the game is played. takes some serious nudging to avoid them sometimes. just wish it was consistent.

Quoted from Asael:

Big Thanks!!! That was the Solution.
The only problem left now is the Button on the lockbar. And I can‘t adjust it, cause the plastic Button is crap and always gets stuck. Has someone found a good replacement?

Quoted from heni1977:

Do you think air tool oil would work? I don't have any sewing machine oil.

Quoted from Yelobird:

Time for another Macgyver (Pirate addition) how to "Get the GOLD" button adjustment! lol Yet a minor repair and my suggestion method is based on MY solution not an endorsement from JJP or even LTG the master! In pulling the button out you will quickly see and Hear that there is a clear rubbing (squeak) when you push the button. While a drop of oil would more then likely aid in helping the burr wear in over time I want to play NOW! lol My solution was to simply (carefully) install the screw end of the button into a hand drill. (as shown) Apply a Single drop of 3 in 1 oil to the edge of the button to aid in the wear in and keep it from heating up. Hold the button and run the drill at a decent throttle while pulling the button down in the compressed state. Only 15-20 seconds. Then reverse the drill and do the same in reverse. This process Expedites the smoothing and wear in process of the button bottom burr and the oil gets distributed evenly. Testing by hand now you will no longer hear the squeak (bind). Re-install and BAM we are getting the GOLD again!! Worked perfect for me and only took maybe 5 minutes tops to complete. Good luck ya scurvy dogs!!
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Quoted from heni1977:

Back up and running.
The cannon is a cool little mod!
Definitely spices up that little area!
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Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Adjust the coil power on the mystery kickout, or else angle the snubber bracket just slightly differently, or both. I turned mine down so that it kicks more softly and comes to the right flipper most of the time.

Quoted from dnaman:

Well, somehow in replacing the CR2032 battery, with the system completely powered off, the pin won't power up now.
I turn on the pin and hear a hum, with the driver board LEDs all lit up.
Is this something to do with the motherboard being turned off/losing power etc...? I recall something long ago with WOZ owners experiencing something.
Nothing else was touched. Any thoughts?
UPDATE#1: It must be the PC as the PC powersupply isn't starting up. I'll keep looking.
UPDATE#2: Yep, I've gone and fudged the bucket
[Do not let your battery go below 3V (like you would know , and also do not remove the CMOS battery with the power off! (as per the detailed instructions under E-3 in the JJP-POTC manual.)]
Here is the excerpt:[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Schabs81:

Energyspike how many plays on your machine? I see cliff is in order for that vuk

Quoted from iceman44:

I use the same felt to protect on my Woz, easy to put down, easy to pull up.
PF shouldn't be chipping like that with so few plays

Quoted from Pdxmonkey:

If you bend the metal tab down towards the pf the eject will be a lot smoother.
I have my power set at 22.
I would love to see a Cliffy here.

Quoted from bigd1979:

Mylar will work well also if u cut it to fit closely around the hole edge. I cut my own mylar and put it around any place that cld possibly chip or wear.

Quoted from iceman44:

Hobby Lobby or Michaels. $1 per 8 1/2 x 11 sheet. I use it in the shooter lane as well.

Quoted from Pdxmonkey:

If you bend the metal tab down towards the pf the eject will be a lot smoother.
I have my power set at 22.
I would love to see a Cliffy here.

Quoted from Psw757:

Just looked at my machine and my Mylar is right up to the edge of the black border. Not even sure I can cut a piece small enough to fit in that space.
Your Mylar seems to be installed a little further away which is the culprit.
Hopefully we get some real protectors soon!

Quoted from VillaThrills:

Oy...hate to report this one...found it when trouble shooting a chattering sling. Chipping by the slings and slings wearing thin. Thoughts on what to do about this one??? New rubber, fine. But playfield chipping significantly on both sides? I only have 457 games on it. Just lost a ton of value on this one. Guess I will call JJP on Monday.
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Quoted from dnaman:

I think that this is a logical place for the unknown mylar in the goodie bag.
In this pics, I've used a flashlight to show it applied but essentially it is transparent of course.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

Got early access to the new .98 code and will be streaming it tonight! 8 p.m. Eastern at http://www.twitch.tv/buffalopinball

Quoted from Yelobird:

Update... I love this dam game! End of update. Lol

Quoted from Psw757:

Anyone Mylar the disc yet?
Doesn’t seem like they protected the decal at all.

Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

POTC .98 code is live! https://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/
Change log: http://159.203.76.48/potc/potc_changelog.txt
I also see some printable pricing cards, didn't notice those before so they may be new too.

Quoted from Psw757:

White lithium grease. Extreme temps and dirt are the only things that gum it up.

Quoted from heni1977:

I am starting to have this same issue. Mostly during multi ball when two of them roll down there, only one comes out. Then I have to nudge the machine till it falls in and registers.
What was your fix? dnaman [quoted image]

Quoted from pickleric:

Soldering the wire back on worked for D04 EOS upper left playfield flipper.
There was also a brown/green wire I had to solder back to one of the black pearl bonus X switches. That was a bit confusing at first as the brown/green wire is daisy chained among switches 9,10,and 12 so it did not solder onto either of the switches that were not working (9&12), had to solder onto the last one in the daisychain I believe switch 10. All the wires being zipped tied did not make this readily apparent at first, after cutting all the zip ties it became more clear.
Taking the ship out and tipping on its side is definitely a bit awkward.
I have an old radioshack iron that is pretty awful for this and was not great.
Any recommendations on brand / model of soldering iron to get that works well for this type of tight quarters work?
[quoted image]

Quoted from pickleric:

For d04, I just pushed to the right side and soldered it back on.

Quoted from Rbviessman:

Another machine with a broken wire. Wish me luck!
[quoted image]

Quoted from tonycip:

Wow thanks Mod couple, we really appreciate your mod's and pirate problem solving, like the ship lights and such. and your reasonable prices .
so on that note let me share a shooter rod mod on the cheap. here's how I made mine below you can too for under 15$ or if you don't have the time I can whip up some for 35$ shipped not 98$ + shipping. like some others.. I'm not in the mod business just want to help out on this easy to make cheap mod. pinball is expensive enough. Pm me if your interested.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from dnaman:

That is a nice score for sure but there is far more to that than just '3 ball vs 5 ball'. This is not to bust your balls, just to share thoughts.
I find the posting of scores pointless as there are way too many variables to consider. This is completely an 'apples to orange' type of thing. There are so many variables and combinations within the settings that scores are irrelevant between pins.That's why I find the QR Code, neat in theory but not useful. I've seen some say; here is my score with 'factory settings' but what does that really mean and how would most people know what settings are set? Even out of the box settings can be different between pins. The 3 local POTC LE pins, mine and our friend's each had different settings.
What settings have been changed beyond that? From ball save time (main ball and each MB), individual difficulty levels for each and every option, to the physical adjustments for the outlines and possibly the pitch of the pf? Although the last two can't be shown in software, the rest can. It is those type of details that would help create relevancy in a posted score and % of completion. (IE: 5-ball, Extra Easy, 15 second ball save(s) and closed outlines, no 'other' changes... '10million and finished the entire game!'.
It would be cool if there was a way to create a balanced comparison of some sort. IE: if installing the 'install 3-Ball' would generate a code/value (like a checksum value) that would be the same on all software and that would be displayed along the the score somehow. Any changes to the settings within would alter the code so it would be easily determined that it was not a straight 3-Ball setting. A variation of this would be the ability to share configuration settings (assuming that changes have been made beyond one of the fixed installs) of just the game related settings. This would still show the checksum type value but create more of an apples to apples comparison. If you think about it, one could change a bunch of settings, score a 3.4 Million, have buddies come over and make everything harder until they leave. Sounds ridiculous but entirely doable and I'm sure that some do it.
I'd like to be able to select a configuration and play it comparing my progress and scoring with others online just not sure how that is even possible at present. An example would be having the ability to watch a stream; JJP's or Kevin's etc... and downloading their game only type settings to challenge myself with on my own pin.
Hats off to Ted Estes back in the day with his TZ scoring and how he prevented buy-in scores to post to the main HS list, very cool idea!

Quoted from f3honda4me:

Thanks. Any suggestions on some that won’t?

Quoted from Knx873:

I’m sure it’s been asked before but is the chest a physical ball lock still?

Quoted from tonycip:

I haven't put the new code in yet. are the changes listed somewhere? (sorry if I missed it) . also when you pick a character it tells you what there advantage is, where is the list of disadvantages?

Quoted from tonycip:

I updated the machine to .97. it shows that on screen. but now I cant seem to get .98 to go in.. any Ideas..

Quoted from NickBuffaloPinball:

I had an epic game last night where I got to 4 out of the 5 wizard modes. I've never gotten to more than 1 in a single game before. This was on factory settings.
What really helped is the way the game doled out extra balls. As I progressed further, it gave them out at what seemed appropriate times, like reaching checkpoints in a video game. You play well and progress further, here's an extra ball. Makes perfect sense.
If Keith or someone can explain the ways that extra balls are earned, that would be appreciated.

Quoted from f3honda4me:

I apologize for so many questions lately, I've been trying to search in the thread to find answers but haven't had any luck. Where are the monitor brightness/contrast adjustment settings? Under monitor in the menu I only have pixel offset, size, etc.
The other question, it doesn't seem that my machine is displaying the "wanted" posters with the pictures it has taken at all. Cycling through with flippers never shows them, and they never show in attract mode either. The setting to allow photos to be used in attract mode is set correctly, but they never show?

Quoted from Yelobird:

Its Possible if you raise the plunger (turn screw in to set height and lock jamb nut) that the coil will be able to draw the plunger again. I suspect its just out of range. Simple adjustment but we are here if that doesn't work.

Quoted from zaphX:

My bullsys shot is directly in the center of the up/down travel. Sounds like mine was too high and yours is too low. What do the 2 screws look like on the motor bracket behind the playfield?
I believe topmost is no good, and bottommost is no good. I had to play with mine to find the sweet spot where the ship in “home” was level with the ramp.

Quoted from Pinballpal:

My Auto Plunger was not shoting the ball cleanly at all out of the box so here is what I did to fix it.
1. Lift up the playfeild and move the automatic plunger with with your hand and see it moves in and out of the coil sleeve smoothly.
If it is binding push the auto plunger assembly to the right or left so the automatic plunger goes into the coil sleeve smoothly.
2. Loosen the screws on the automatic plunger assembly and push the assembly to the right as far as it can go then tighten down the screws. This will cause the ball to rest on the right side of the auto lauch mech.
3. The coil on the Auto Lauch mech moves if you wiggle it so I put a zip tie around the coil to keep it from moving. The coils on the flippers are tight so I figured the coil on the auto
launch assembly should be tight as well. Their is a cleaner solution for this if you put smothing in between the coil and the bracket that holds it in place should work too. I will do this later but the zip tie works for now.
4. Raise the power of the auto lauch mech in the settings to 32.
After all of these steps my pin auto lauches the ball perfect everytime.

Quoted from zaphX:

I had a pretty good maintenance day.
I installed the “subway fix” post.
I adjusted a leaf on the right slingshot that was machine-gunning.
And I adjusted the loose scoop on Tortuga, fixing the SDTMs.
Now I’m having a new problem; twice so far tonight the ball has gotten stuck under the Dauntless after making the bullsye shot.
Any suggestions for this one?[quoted image]

Quoted from Genjuro:

Got a link to this MB, perhaps on AMZN or Newegg?

Quoted from VillaThrills:

You probably have a sensitive switch hit someplace. Go to the switch matrix test and hit the right side of the cabinet to see if something registers.

Quoted from evh347:

VillaThrills is probably correct. If you're not in a COTBP multi-ball, any switch on the lower playfield will shut the door to the cannon and any switch on the upper playfield will re-open the cannon door. Check your switch matrix for switches on the lower playfield that register with little interaction. I'd focus on the chapter select left/right rubbers...my left one has always been very sensitive (which requires play/adjustment). It's just pinball.

Quoted from zaphX:

Anyone have some good settings for the LE monitor?
At default settings I find the LE monitor is a bit washed out looking.
The monitor in the CE appears to be a different product, and is much more colorful at default settings.
I have monitor envy

Quoted from imagamejunky:

I don't recommend increasing your contrast up so high. That will create blooming and the image won't look as crisp

Quoted from zaphX:

How frequently should I change balls to minimize playfield wear?
And which ones are recommended? I know Silverjets are top notch for games that don’t have magnets, but this one does.
I got a couple tubes of these but wondering if there’s a better option.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-5

Quoted from f3honda4me:

I also have not installed cliffys. My game has about 1000 plays on it and here are the map and tortuga holes. They look great. The right side of the map hole has a factory piece of mylar that was installed with a "bubble" so that's the mylar bubble/damage you're seeing, not PF damage.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from thc666:

just got my cliffys this week . just in time. found this when i was about to take the pearl off. how that happened have no idea.
this is just a heads up to the guys who dont think they need cliffys.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from KornFreak28:

Cool! Sounds easy enough. Why does it have a hole in it? Are we supposed to use a screw? Thanks brother!