Whoever is in charge of QC needs to get axed and they need to get someone in there that takes a little pride in their work. There is no excuse to get a new 10k game and have a list of shit that needs to be fixed before its playable. One small thing, sure, but not a list.

There should be a comprehensive checklist that's gone through for each game before its boxed up. I'll have to admit that I'm a bit concerned about getting mine.

Exactly, well said. Multiple issues out of the box are unacceptable at these prices. I've asked my distributor to send me one of the latest Pirates built off the line but there still seems to be reports of games with issues on February built games.

I swear my game is haunted. After talking to Butch from jjp on the phone...he emailed me a bunch of things to check on my new game...turns out almost all the connectors on the bottom of power board behind monitor were off or half off...so I connected and reseated all of them...then I try and put the playfield down and the two big harness going to the back box wont let me put the playfield all the way back so the tabs can seat on lock bar bracket...after 10 mins I had to force it back..so I think its fixed then I notice lower gi on out lanes are out...cant win

I totally agree..stuff happens in shipping...but there QC sucks. Got my game on Tuesday still not working totally....I discussed with JJP seems like they acknowledge the issue but things dont change...this is my third JJP and all have had alot of issues out of the box ....my potc is the worse so far and it was built two weeks ago..working with the team is great but I am annoyed this time around

Sorry to hear that. I don't how these games are getting past QC with connectors not plugged in or half off. I thought the games go through a burn in period and are briefly play tested? Like others have said there should be a list of items that need to be checked before a game is packed up. The old "it's pinball, there's always stuff to fix" argument no longer flies with these all time record NIB prices. Again unacceptable JJP at these prices. I love your guys games but QC needs to improve and ASAP.

Connectors half connected/loose sounds like a shipping thing.

Shipping maybe,the real reason is they had the main harness wire tied way to tight. There was no room for any flex. I had to remove some wire ties just so the harness would stop pulling on the connectors....Quality Control issue !

Depending on how much he's charging, its totally worth it. Unless the shipper drops it a few times, you should be able to un-crate and play with no worries regarding tearing a brand new game apart for repairs and upgrades. You can actually just look forward to playing and enjoying!

All I can say is @kingpingames has been great! Working with him was Awesome!
Hope to meet you at Chicago Expo this year!!

Make sure the harnesses are not tangled up behind the playfield. On my game the right one was wrapped around the black pearl vuk.

These kinds of issues seem to be something that affects every manufacturer. I just got a NIB stern that had a list of issues out of the box, including one that required a new part to be sent. It's not just a JJP problem to be honest. I also had to fix both flippers as they were completely unusable as there was no gap on one (so it was very slow or would not even flip) and the other was so loose that it had flopped down and just spun.

Just curious here, but did you remove the black foam block from behind the playfield? It is attached to the rear of the cabinet. It is there so the playfield doesnt bend the hangers during shipping, but should be removed once the game is set up. With it in place, it is difficult to get the playfield in place.

Are there any rulesheets/rule cards, or is it just pricing cards?

Yes, the area before the lip.

The rules and prices are displayed on the apron (compass) monitor.

I opened LE #15 (born on 2/12/19) late today. I was only able to play 1 game, as work pulled me away.

I'm catching a plane tomorrow at 5:30am and will be out of town for a week I guess the kids & family can report back to me.

Playing tonight and noticed a couple of issues. When I lock ball two in the chest it still says it's only ball one.
Also having ball release issues. It goes into a ball search but does not release long enough to allow the ball to go out. Goes into a ball search and then game over.
I've also had game over after ball 2 is locked. Having a bunch of people over tomorrow night would appreciate any tips

Are you using chrome or carbon core pinballs? If chrome balls could be magnetized and may be sticking together in chest.

Increase chest release fire time in coil settings. Make sure trip plate is adjusted closely enough to magnetic tip on release coil to allow it to be pulled open enough to allow balls to drop out.

Check your switch matrix. The ball locks are optos. Start with 0 balls in the chest and then add them one at a time. Switches 73, 74, and 75 are the 3 ball lock optos.

Also, under setting > coil settings > chest fire time. Try increase your fire time to 4 and see if that helps.

As for the game ending after the 2nd ball is locked, that sounds more like a trough switch acting up. Again, check over your switch matrix and make sure nothing is showing up as odd behavior.

Edit: or listen to the guy above me.... he be pretty smart.

I increased the chest time to maximum of five. Still not exiting out of the chest properly. I'm using stock balls. Going to check the switch Matrix now

I think the balls are magnetized. Don't know why that would happen with stock balls

Dude!

Its possible, not as likely as with others, but still possible. That would explain some of the strangeness.

I switched them out with new balls. It was definitely magnetized because when I rolled one over in the chest the other one would follow with it.. good for now.. Thanks guys!

One more thing to check.

I had a replacement chest sent to me (original one broke). When I got this one, I found the coil the activates the chest release arm, was not properly seated. This caused that arm to not open enough. Pretty easy fix. Just loosen the phillips screw that hold the coil to the plate, adjust the coil so it sits flush, re-tighten.

I couldn't help but shake my head....

Thanks for the advice! I will look at that closer if the new balls don't fix the problem.

Streaming POTC from my Texas game room now! http://twitch.tv/nspinball

Nice!

Why is this a key post?
We seriously need key posts for this thread with fixes and important info.
Sorry for using your post as an example dgposter

Does anyone have a list of how many balls each multiball is/starts out at?

Also photos of the map spinner? Mine feels flat and flush with the playfield but there is a much bigger gap on the left side and I’m curious how others look. I’ll take a photo tomorrow.

Found my chest issue was a piece of foam in the chest. Whoops! Didn’t see that in there, maybe that foam should be white to stand out? Also having trouble with the upper playfield vuk and the ball through, lots of time balls hanging on the edge about to go into the shooter lane. Bringing up the coil test hitting start they don’t fire? The test menu is daunting and I wish it was more clear when there’s an issue/where it is and what to do.

Edit: I guess some of his could be balls magnetizing but I am using the stock balls so I didn’t think that would happen. I’ll change them out soon

I was about to say the same thing. This thread is so long that newer owners really can’t find things. More key posts would help.

My game was built 1/15 and besides a bad action button and loose screws at tortuga fortunately no issues. Well maybe one more. Is anyone seeing wear around the spinning disc? I don’t think mine is level. That said this purchase terrified me, not because I was worried about loving the game but because it would be my first NIB purchase that wasn’t delivered and set up by my local distributor. I have very minimal fix it skills and what some of you guys are going through I couldn’t do and would be beyond frustrated. I would need to bring in my local tech. Fortunately I have a good one so when the time comes I will be calling him.

Have had my game a month and this is a keeper for me. Just love everything about it from theme to gameplay. I have always said I am willing to pay a premium price to be awed. And this game is absolutely phenomenal. So good it is the first game I am thinking about buying parts down the road to have long term. That said it would take away from my enjoyment if the game came to me with significant issues and there has to be a way to cut down on these major issues some new owners are seeing. My time is valuable and no matter how great support is you are still spending considerable time fixing a very expensive luxury purchase. I have bought quite a few stern NIB and it is no contest. JJP has the best product once it is ...to use a phrase from their own game...dialed in. . There should not need to be that disclaimer that the game needs to be dialed in. The goal should be that we are saying they make the best games period.

It could be that the whole release assembly is out of alignment.
When working on the target ship you can easily touch the chest release arm and get it out of alignment by mistake.

Grab that little black arm and push a tad down on it.

Now shoot a ball into chest. If the ball stops bend a tad more. Rinse/repeat.

Once the ball slips through with arm in the locked position you went a bit too far. Bend back to the last good position and you now have the lock assembly in the most aggressive alignment possible, should now work on regular release times like a dream.

If ball 2 and 3 being added to the stack or very fast balls entering the chest cause a ball to slip through raise the arm a tad, as well.

Fininkey but achievable.

And next time you work on the target ship be carefull not to touch the chest lock arm....it doesn't take much as the assembly is necessarily flimsy.

Pricing cards look great .

IMG_20190302_224613 (resized).jpg

Thanks! For now new balls seem to have solved the problem. As soon as I changed them the release worked correctly.

So to confirm, the stock balls were the problem?

I was having the same problem with the chest lock. The pinballs would magnetize in just a few plays. I changed the originals bc they seems to be garbage and were getting scratched very easily. Don't use ninja's, as they magnetize very quickly as well. I just purchased some new pinballs from Marco....so far so good.

Thanks for your reply, I checked for binding but didn't find any. The wire bundle maybe a little tight so I decided to try calibrating it. and I noticed it appears to be struggling but that's the test it's to see how much power the motor need to rock the ship from one side to the other in a certain amount of time .
That said I see you were able to get down to 4 mine only got down to 7. but that's ok as long as the machine knows it can adjust to compensate. and that was the problem now that the machine knows this, it boosts up the power to rock the ship properly ! when you first see the calibration test you might be confused as the ship slows almost to a stop. and thing something is wrong. or at least I did.
So I would say if you think your ship isen't rocking properly first check for binding and travel of the arm then try recalibrating.

Working through some fixes and trying to figure out the menu. Just to be sure when I’m in coil test and I press the start button (when it on manual) the coils should fire right? I’ve also had it run through then all and while it scrolls through each coil on the screen nothing is happening on the playfield.

I asked what number of balls for each multiball as I’ve only got two for each one. Starting to think a ball through sensor could be the issue

Coils are disabled when the coin door is open. There’s a white plunger in the coin door hinge you can pull out to override this.
Be careful as it does this for safety reasons.

These are questions your distributor SHOULD be able to answer for you, but here you go.

Movie 1, 2 and 3 are 3 ball multiballs
Movie 4 and 5 are 2 ball multiiballs.

All of this (and much, much more) is in the manual that is built into your game or downloadable here

http://159.203.76.48/potc/POTC_Manual%202_0%20November%202018.pdf

pages a-12 to a-24

This is most likely your issue. when the door is opened the high power is disabled to prevent you from getting hurt.

This is no reflection on you @pale_purple, just a general statement, but people really need to shop around for a decent distributor. Someone who actually cares about what they do, not just getting the check and leaving their customers to figure things out. Does anyone have any idea how much JJP spends on tech support to compensate for lazy distributors? A LOT. I don't mind helping people out, I actually do it a lot, but I feel this is what a distributor is SUPPOSED to do.

My customers (even the second-hand ones) are all advised to call me FIRST before reaching out to JJP. 1) I am probably more than capable of handling their concerns, 2) I will generally be able to get back to them sooner than JJP (by definition that JJP has a lot more calls than I do) and 3) this is just the way it should be. You don't call Ford Motor company when you need work on your car, you call the dealer you got it from.

You can also manually select what you want to happen, thus making it easier to test one coil continuously if need be.
Just in case you did not know.
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I've been playing Tia Dalma a lot lately just trying to finish one movies chapters. My scores aren't as good yet just focussing on the chapters but it's fun.

Yep she is awesome for targeting Wizard modes but at a drastic cost of points as she only gets a percentage. Different ways to attack this game, love it.

After watching the third movie last night, and falling sleep during it, like I did when I saw it and the first two in theaters, I'm really glad they didn't get more licensed material to work with, as man these movies have editing issues.

Starts out so oddly quickly paced, then jumps about to obtuse scenes that just languish and never really construct much of a compelling direction or characters I felt invested in or excited about.

I think losing inane clips and call-outs, only improved the overall GUI, and sound design. Even if not intentional, this is so much better than it could have been. The AV package compliments such a phenomenal overall game design and shooting package, whereas in a game like the Hobbit, it bolsters a somewhat lackluster and lethargic gameplay style.

Turned on the ol' NIB LE today and Switches 9,10, and 12 are stuck open and don't respond/activate when you press the targets manually. These are the BONUS, X, and LOAD targets on the Pearl.

Also, there is no foam behind the BONUS and X targets on the Pearl.

Any ideas?

20190302_130222 (resized).jpg

Sorry to say I know exactly what that is.

You have a broken wire under the Pearl, likely the green/brown one. You’ll have to pull the Pearl, find it and resolder it. Did this to a NIB CE for a friend.

Thanks zaph, found the broken wire, can't quite tell where to solder it back on. Did you remove the ship completely from the playfield, or just lean it on its side?

I find it doesn't lean very well on its right side/there's not enough room. The broken wire is on the left side.

We leaned it - I had help, the game owner held the Pearl while I reattached it.
This picture shows the broken wiere and the attach point.

6BFB3931-099B-4759-9200-7F879EE2F7FE (resized).jpeg