Quoted from heni1977:Finally got a chance to install the silencer kit. So I am doing this today!
[quoted image]
Let me know if you have any issues or need help. Good Luck!
Quoted from Schabs81:I ordered one myself just waiting to get it
Ordered Thursday, shipped today. Have to take care of our Packer fans.... lol
Quoted from heni1977:Don’t push me yelobird I will return all your mods!
GO BEARS!!!!!
Everything is going smoothly on silencer install! Love the instructions (pie hole)!
I still haven't installed mine - just haven't felt like it and work has been busy. Will install next week. Any tips from your experience? The instructions seem complex.
Quoted from delt31:I still haven't installed mine - just haven't felt like it and work has been busy. Will install next week. Any tips from your experience? The instructions seem complex.
Just know they were written knowing there are Packer and Steeler fans out there so I needed a bit more detail... Lol JK!!!! Honestly this can be done in 20 minutes with minimal skill level I just felt this game would attract many New to pinball buyers so more detail is better to help them feel comfortable. If you know whats under a playfield the task is rather simple and easy to do. Especially for Bears Fans!! lol
Lol!
I think the hardest part was getting my fingers in there to remove the disc. But can be done with patience!
And remember to leave nylon jamb nut loose when leveling the disc.
Already sounds 100 times better, Great job MC!
Quoted from cbdarden:So, I did have issues.
Shooter rod was hitting the auto plunger. Adjusted both and the height of the playfield, no longer a problem but there’s already a nick in my rubber shooter tip (nbd).
Chest was releasing two balls at a time sometimes in a multiplayer game. I adjusted the release, haven’t seen it since, but I’m keeping an eye on it.
My monitor was crooked, got that sorted out. It’s awkward to adjust though.
My monitor sags down on the right side below the glass window. was that the problem you had? What did you adjust, I tried reposition (4 tiny screws) where the monitor where it attaches to the arm, but their not enough adjustment there.
Quoted from skyrex:Just curious. Is this supposed to open and close? Mine is always open and I never questioned it but I noticed it move a little when I hit a ball in there today.
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It doesn't close per sey like a garage door. Just half closes to keep the ball out until activated then it pops up to allow ball passage.
Quoted from adamross:POTC LE 248 in the house, built 1/14/19. Other than the action button sticking, so far, so good.
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ARRRgh, pirates and Aliens what a setup awesome! Congrats.
Quoted from Yelobird:Ordered Thursday, shipped today. Have to take care of our Packer fans.... lol
Thanks yelobird
Quoted from heni1977:skyrex this is mine at rest. Check the operation of the door, should move roughly a inch freely!
Maybe another angle of the pic too.
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Not to create any questionable issues but looking at your photo I noticed on my game only certain switches in the game have the foam support behind them. Some even look like they were removed? Seems like all the other machines I have if there is a stand up switch it has the foam for rebound but not the case on this game. Curious if there is a reason for this that I am missing?
Thanks for the feedback. I am opening it up to install some mods my wife ordered and I will take a look at it. Possible I just never noticed it move.
after watching the latest stream I noticed that the far left shot (devils triangle) came back to the left flipper where mine (and others) do not. Today I bent the left rail guide at the bottom to the right and happy to report that when I hit the devils triangle straight and it comes back - the ball now goes to the left flipper instead of bouncing off left sling.
FYI in the event anyone else wants it to do the same which I think is the way it's expected per the developers game....
Quoted from Yelobird:Curious if there is a reason for this that I am missing?
I believe Eric mentioned that in one of the Twitch feeds.
LTG : )
Quoted from delt31:after watching the latest stream I noticed that the far left shot (devils triangle) came back to the left flipper where mine (and others) do not. Today I bent the left rail guide at the bottom to the right and happy to report that when I hit the devils triangle straight and it comes back - the ball now goes to the left flipper instead of bouncing off left sling.
FYI in the event anyone else wants it to do the same which I think is the way it's expected per the developers game....
I've been trying to adjust mine for a while. where did you bend it. The bottom is where it attaches to the playfield...could you post a pic.
Quoted from tonycip:I've been trying to adjust mine for a while. where did you bend it the bottom is where it attaches to the playfield...
bottom by the screw. If you bend above that it might get in the way of the flipping target. It's not 100% but if it goes in there with speed its coming back to the left flipper.
Quoted from Lambow:My monitor sags down on the right side below the glass window. was that the problem you had? What did you adjust, I tried reposition (4 tiny screws) where the monitor where it attaches to the arm, but their not enough adjustment there.
That was exactly my issue. I adjusted it all the way up, tightened the screws on the sagging side, and then pushed down on the other side to get it to even out to tighten the other side. It took me a couple of tries.
Quoted from cbdarden:That was exactly my issue. I adjusted it all the way up, tightened the screws on the sagging side, and then pushed down on the other side to get it to even out to tighten the other side. It took me a couple of tries.
For me, it was just making sure it was totally secure in the latch on the right side. You need to make sure it is fully set in there. The slide will go down even if the notch is not fully engaged. Hope that makes sense.
Quoted from KingPinGames:The wozrr should have came with the printed manual. Thba did not (although I too recieved one with one of mine).
How long ago did you get the wozrr?
Not Exactly correct Manual and Invisiglass where options for Export Distributors
Quoted from Ballypinball:Not Exactly correct Manual and Invisiglass where options for Export Distributors
really, that is news to me. thanks for clearing that up.
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:I’m getting CRAZY amounts of flipper dust from the upper playfield. What is flipper dust? I will rebuild but man so dusty.
Yes, this seems a JJP Pirates "issue".
I´m maintaining a JJP Pirates at an 24/7 Location in Germany and I need to clean this machine much more often than the other Pins.
On the other hand it´s earning very well, so no complaining.
This maschine has also the issue with the mini display droping out for "no reason".
Seems a software bug since the display is fine after a reboot of the maschine.
I´m waiting for a feedback from JJP about this issue but they seem busy on there next release.
Quoted from skyrex:Thanks for the feedback. I am opening it up to install some mods my wife ordered and I will take a look at it. Possible I just never noticed it move.
Mine does barely move. The coils works but it's basically always open. Need to look into this...
But I have a much bigger problem. On my machine the spinning disc is not level. The axle is crooked, which makes it impossible to adjust it for a smooth transition between playfield and disc. Has anyone encountered this? I was thinking about putting washers under one or two of the screws on the spinning map gland nut. Is there a better option?
For now I have set the disc such as the ball won't hurt the playfield, but the raised edge of the disc starts showing some wear...
Quoted from Captchaos:Anyone having issue with the pinballs not being released from the chest after being locked? I checked the mech and it works, during multi ball I see it trying to release but the balls seem stuck. Thoughts?
This happened to me again today, with 2 balls in the lock. Checked the thread, and there doesn't seem to be a resolution aside from to adjust the mechanism. I wondered whether anyone had any success with this, and how exactly they adjusted the mechanism. Would increasing the coil strength be a good recommendation? This could be a good addition for the brilliant http://tinyurl.com/potcfixes doc.
Interestingly, the game went into ball search (which then timed out the chapter I was playing rather well at the time) and after a few searches, it ended my ball! After shouting, "Oh fiddlesticks" I let the next ball start, and at this point the game got rather confused. It managed to eject a ball from the lock, which I drained eventually, and then it just sat there for a bit. Then it released the other ball which I continued playing (badly).
Quoted from Pale_Purple:Keep the wireform on the left outlane/inlane before the left flipper lubricated good. On location this week I’ve had two balls roll fairly slowly down the far left inline only to bounce off that one way wireform and drain. Bummer.
Um not sure what this means but I would not suggest lubricating Any of the wireforms or any Playfield part for that matter. Unless you meant something else by that statement.
Quoted from Pale_Purple:Keep the wireform on the left outlane/inlane before the left flipper lubricated good. On location this week I’ve had two balls roll fairly slowly down the far left inline only to bounce off that one way wireform and drain. Bummer.
Quoted from Yelobird:Um not sure what this means but I would not suggest lubricating Any of the wireforms or any Playfield part for that matter. Unless you meant something else by that statement.
I’m guessing he means the one-way gate on the left flipper inlane that sometimes stays up and lets the ball get thru in the wrong direction...
Quoted from gliebig:What qualifies multi ball starts? I had a game last night that I was starting mb after mb after mb ...
Seems a bit too easy to start them
obviously each one has a different way to qualify. the manual has more in-depth descriptions but here is my quick and dirty rundown.
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purple = rip the devils triangle spinner a few times to qualify. shoot into the top of the devils triangle to start
red = shoot the 9 red arrow 'main shots' on the playfield. start with the maelstrom shot
yellow = sink the dauntless or hit it 3 times with the cannon. start at port royale. this can also be instantly qualified by hitting the BP skill shot when the 'load canon' arrow is lit. definitely the easiest way to qualify this mb.
green = hit the standups next to the chest to prime the lock. lock 3 balls and the mb starts
blue = 5 individual orbits through the fountain of youth qualify. start the mb with another orbit shot.
tortuga = collect gold (50, 100, etc) and cash in at the tortuga scoop.
666666 = have all 6 mb's running at the same time for a special jackpot (this is where scores start to blow up)
-----
i feel like stacking multiballs on top of chapters is kind of how they designed this game to be played. in some of my better games i'll have times when i've been in multiball for what feels like 10 minutes straight but i'm still hitting chapter shots and advancing towards wizard modes AND hitting shots that qualify another multiball to stack on top of current ones. i think this game has single-handedly increased my 'gain control and make the right shots during multiball' skills more than any other game i've played to date.
but i'll agree that they probably could have made some of them a tiny bit harder to qualify/start after the first time around.
nice thing about this game is that the code isn't in final form. still plenty of stuff to get balanced.
Quoted from AUKraut:I’m guessing he means the one-way gate on the left flipper inlane that sometimes stays up and lets the ball get thru in the wrong direction...
Sorry, yes this. But it didn’t get through in the wrong direction, the back hit the gate in the right direction going slow and just bounced down to drain. What would be a fix to get the gate moving smoothly?
Quoted from Pale_Purple:Sorry, yes this. But it didn’t get through in the wrong direction, the back hit the gate in the right direction going slow and just bounced down to drain. What would be a fix to get the gate moving smoothly?
if the gate is operating smoothly without kinks or hanging up then yes, a small drop of lightweight machine oil on each hinge will definitely help.
What was the recommended “Sticky Button” fix? Is there one? The Switch works fine, but the button physically binds. Lube? If so, what kind?
Quoted from cbdarden:What was the recommended “Sticky Button” fix? Is there one? The Switch works fine, but the button physically binds. Lube? If so, what kind?
I hit one with WD40 which worked great.
I hit another one with silicon spray which worked great.
Then I hit one with silicon spray and it made things worse! It physically bound up as if glue was forming inside it. That one we had to disassemble and sand the plunger and sleeve to get rid of it. Then it worked great.
I really don’t know what happened that made that one go bad with the spray. It must have had some other kind of lubricant in there that reacted badly with it.
Quoted from gliebig:The canon shot is so exciting/ satisfying to hit. Should be worth more points.
It is really cool. Besides qualifying for the first movies MB and scoring jackpots during it does the ship come into play anywhere else? Is it used during one of the games wizard modes?
Quoted from cbdarden:What was the recommended “Sticky Button” fix? Is there one? The Switch works fine, but the button physically binds. Lube? If so, what kind?
How frequently should I change balls to minimize playfield wear?
And which ones are recommended? I know Silverjets are top notch for games that don’t have magnets, but this one does.
I got a couple tubes of these but wondering if there’s a better option.
I always got the super shinnys from pinball life. Although I dont see any on there web page good thing I got 10 new ones
Quoted from FlippinJB:This happened to me again today, with 2 balls in the lock. Checked the thread, and there doesn't seem to be a resolution aside from to adjust the mechanism. I wondered whether anyone had any success with this, and how exactly they adjusted the mechanism. Would increasing the coil strength be a good recommendation? This could be a good addition for the brilliant http://tinyurl.com/potcfixes doc.
Interestingly, the game went into ball search (which then timed out the chapter I was playing rather well at the time) and after a few searches, it ended my ball! After shouting, "Oh fiddlesticks" I let the next ball start, and at this point the game got rather confused. It managed to eject a ball from the lock, which I drained eventually, and then it just sat there for a bit. Then it released the other ball which I continued playing (badly).
I noticed that when you start the next game during the character match, the balls stay in the lock. If you have balls in the lock, you need to wait for the game over screen for them to be released. Maybe this helps...
Probably something that could be corrected with a software update.
Rules question: Sometimes I have to requalify for chapters after a drain. Sometimes the qualified chapters stay lit. Why is that?
Leaning towards ordering a Pirates LE this week but have some code related questions.
Do the 5 movie wizard modes in Pirates play like those in other Keith Johnson games such as LOTR, WOZ, and TH in the sense of them being two ball multiballs that work the entire playfield in interesting ways? Do some or all of the wizard modes have multiple stages? Sounds like none of them have a big set piece moment currently when they are completed? By set piece moment I mean the machine going nuts, flippers killed, etc when a wizard mode is completed. Hopefully that is added in a future code update.
Also, can the games multiballs be beat or do you just keep hitting jackpot shots until one ball remains?
I know there's gameplay videos out there of the wizard modes being played but I want to avoid seeing and reading details about them.
Quoted from Pale_Purple:Sorry, yes this. But it didn’t get through in the wrong direction, the back hit the gate in the right direction going slow and just bounced down to drain. What would be a fix to get the gate moving smoothly?
In general I think having the correct playfield pitch and dialing up the left VUK is the best solution for this gate. Unlike a spinner, adding lube to a wire gate will in my opinion do little more than make a mess. I set my game to at least 6.8 degrees and level which for the most part I have never had an outlane feed fall to drain personally. That outlane need speed to fulfill the design in my view. Good luck!
Quoted from zaphX:How frequently should I change balls to minimize playfield wear?
And which ones are recommended? I know Silverjets are top notch for games that don’t have magnets, but this one does.
I got a couple tubes of these but wondering if there’s a better option.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-5
https://ballbaron.com/product/pinball-carbon/
Not sure on frequency of changing since I'm new to pinball....But the carbon steel working good for a few months now.
Quoted from cbdarden:What was the recommended “Sticky Button” fix? Is there one? The Switch works fine, but the button physically binds. Lube? If so, what kind?
As ZaphX pointed out to the fix I made along with a Single drop of 3 in 1 oil on the top edge of the button I think this is the best fix. Not sure how to explain this but..... I think the button issue is the bottom edge of the large button itself. There is an edge burr on inside that when pushed gets wedged in the radiuses of the button housing when pushed. By friction spinning as I did it Expedites wearing off that sharp edge and with a dot of oil keeps it from binding. Several have opted to increase the screw or length of the button pin which is basically just limiting the throw of the button so it doesn't travel deep into the socket. Same result as long as you don't (and we do) hit the button too hard. Hope Some of this made sense....lol
Quoted from zaphX:How frequently should I change balls to minimize playfield wear?
And which ones are recommended? I know Silverjets are top notch for games that don’t have magnets, but this one does.
I got a couple tubes of these but wondering if there’s a better option.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-5
Over in the Houdini thread there was a good amount of discussion recently, maybe a few pages back from the last. Consensus on time frame seems to be 400-600 games. There some links for balls sales as well over there.
I wanted to contribute a Definitive DIY solution to the "Sticky Gold" button issue that has or will plague many of us looking to plunder our riches!! Trust that this is NOT difficult but if you follow this you will never again loose another precious gold coin! The issue as I mentioned (and you will find when you do this proceedure) is that the button casting itself is the issue. The bottom edge of the button has a sharp burr that binds into the radius of the housing when pushed hard enough. No fun for gold collection... Let me know if there are Any questions, hoping this can help others.
1 Remove bar and unscrew collar that holds button in place. There is a washer below so don't loose it. Same for LE, and CE.
2 Remove screw from end of button by holding button head and removing with a screw driver.
3 Holding housing, push down firmly on a flat surface and button will pop out from housing.
4 This is where you will find the binding issue of sorts. With your finger you will find the bottom edge of the button is sharp and often protruding from the button. We need to fix this!! Remove spring and set aside.
5 How this is done is up to the individual but I am by nature lazy and prefer mechanical solutions. I Carefully put the button shaft into a cordless drill Not tight and Slow speed spun the edge of the button on some 400 grit (doesn't really matter) sandpaper. While spinning I slowly moved it up and down creating a subtle radius to that current sharp edge. Go slow and let your finger be the judge. This can also be done by simply rubbing it on sandpaper without a drill if you wish. Get it smooth as a monkeys butt and your done.
6 To give that button a bit more Expedited gold collection pop, take this time to slightly stretch the button spring. I went double original length. This helps it return to normal faster.
7 Reassemble and as a preventative measure I added (1) drop of 3 in 1 oil to the top edge to coat Not lubricate. Do not use WD40 products as they are not lubricants and Will in time make things gum up.
Thats It! Reinstall and Get some of that Pirate Loot!!!!!! Hope this is helps a few fellow pirates!! Good luck!!!
The Mod Couple
Dave
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