Is there a video anywhere showing how to remove the ship safely? I have a wire off (green-brown) as all the switches in the column are not working. Stuck my finger underneath and gently wiggled things around a bit with one of the switches pressed in, and it registered, so I'm sure that's where the problem is. Damnit!

Nah. It really feels like the effort to trigger is about right. The problem is that it frequently multi triggers. Warning, warning, tilt all at once.

Perhaps Yelobird is right and I just need to reign it in a bit. Those saveable drains really make me want to try!

Butch from JJ support said it's on his list to make a video soon.

SDTM has an in depth JJP POTC review video and during the video they show how to do it if I recall.

Turn game off. Move spotlight over a little. Behind back panel of playfield yank out the big metal clip holding the flat metal thingy holding the motor to the pearl. I'd pull off the big white nylon spacer so you don't lose it. Look between pearl and back wall, see the long allen head screw sticking up ? Remove it with a 1/8th inch allen head wrench.

Slide pearl back and lift up and set on the side. Should have plenty of room to work.

If you want to remove from the game, disconnect the connectors below the playfield. Mark opto connectors in case they aren't marked.

LTG : )

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Thanks LTG, I'll give it a go

Anyone in the Richmond, VA area have one of these?

If so PM please.

Thanks.

Joining the crew soon...

I ordered Cliffys & Jack figure to replace Tom. Going to look at mods next. Spinning disk sound dampener is high on the list unless they are coming out of the factory better now? Anyone have a recent build that can say if it's still really loud?

WHAT? Spinning fist? Speak up a little ..

My CE is build date January 2 this year .

The game has been playing good, no issues of serious nature.

Disc.. Well, that could have been engineered with a little less play in tolerance. Its loud. Too loud for a game like this .

Ship is working fine, upkicker opto is a little slow , and my inlane one way gate has a tendency to sometimes close two ways.. not amusing but on the tweak list.

Other than that, superb, what a game. JJP and crew can be proud .

One time my ball jumped through the “hoop” of the one way inlane gate. I was impressed!

This game is spectacular I agree. Could not be happier with it.

My friend who has been coming over to play with me bought himself a CE so I’ll be helping set up a third machine soon.

JJP knocked this game out of the park.

Decided to remove the backbox as I do with all JJP games when moving into the bedrooms due to the game’s weight and to avoid damage. Removing the backbox on this game is a lot more involved than WOZ or HOBBIT, so take plenty of pics before doing this. Got the game safely moved into one of the game rooms.
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Were I you, I'd think seriously about widening the door(s).

So pissed right now. Bought Tilt graphics "Kraken" art blades. They looked beautiful. One side done, then moved to next side. Then lowered playfield and RIP! Both sides tore. This cabinet is so damn tight there is no room. Mirrors=scratched. Art blades=torn. Screw you JJP! I will get over it...but pissed at the moment. My advice...leave the sides alone.

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Bummer, I just picked up the same set. Will let you know if mine does the same. Although my Hobbit blades are getting torn up too.

Mirrors on Hobbit have never had a problem and WOZ art blades want in with plenty of room. It may just be my cabinet...but proceed with caution.

My mirrors on my Pirates are perfect - no scratching. Make sure you're really pushing them in when installing.

I know the feeling. I tore one of the Tilt Graphics side blades after installation on my POTC and now the game only has one blade installed (ugh). Need to reorder another $80 set and try again. Also ripped my Pingraffix AC/DC and BSD blades, but not as badly as POTC and was able to fix and tape the ripped part back down. I started bending those metal playfield slider/bracket things inward slightly with a crescent wrench to keep them farther away from the cabinet sides. Frustrating to blow $80 a pop on these things and then rip them doing something as simple as lowering the playfield

That was probably what was tearing mine.

Has anyone put black mirror blades in this? Can I get a picture if you have?

How did you get that post (w/ rubber) out at the Tortuga/Mystery hole? Punch?

NEVERMIND: I see it just screws out from the top. Mine was loose enough to come out w/ fingertips.

These Cliffy's are challenging to install on JJPOTC. To install the Depths edge protector, I had to remove around two dozen screws, relocate the habit trail (passes thru the plastic mountain), the depth's VUK, and the plastic subway (hence all the screws).

You need a 1/4 inch deep socket I think some one correct me if I am wrong because I need to tighten my post.

That cliffy can be installed without any effort by just carefully clicking it in place from the entrance. I did this without removing anything.

You're probably right, but my fat fingers could not get the proper angle with that VUK in the way. No matter how I maneuvered, I kept dropping the Cliffy before I got anywhere near getting it properly placed.

Man you'd think for damn near 10k, they could add protectors from the factory like CGC. Its so much easier to add when nothings in the way.

Can someone take a look closely at their pirate lane inserts, specifically the R and T?
I notice missing black in the print but not sure if intentional or not. I’m assuming they are printed from bottom side

Couple pics of mine, only noticed because I gave her a good cleaning/wax today and replaced the balls.

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Just knock the wall down!!!!

Mine are the same, its artistic vision.

Thanks for looking!

I took some pics for people wanting to install the Cliffy on the Tortuga/Mystery hole. I have to give some credit to JordanB for his post earlier:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-pirates-of-the-caribbean-official-owners-and-fan-club/page/59#post-4787267

Diverting from that guidance, I did NOT loosen anything underneath the playfield to get enough slack in the white pop skirt.
Hopefully this is helpful:

1) I used a 5/64 allen wrench to get Tortuga Tom off.
2) Take the two phillips screws securing the motor to the base out, but ENSURE you are mindful to catch the small white plastic spacers that become loose as soon as you take those screws out. I always work with a cloth on the playfield to block potential holes where parts that I don't see can fall into making a 15 minute install take over an hour just to find the parts I dropped while installing.
3) You should get enough slack in the motor to wiggle it out enough to expose two additional phillips head screws securing the bottom of the assembly. I took those out with a magnetic screw driver. If you need extra slack, the motor plugs into a molex underneath the playfield which you can unplug to give you additional slack. They don't need to come all the way out, but this is what gives you the slack to get a screw driver into the two screws holding the VUK ball guide (the same one that gives everyone trouble with SDTM out of the Tortuga/Mystery kicker).
4) I loosened the post/rubber by hand from the top of the playfield.
5) After cleaning the area with an alcohol rub (Cliffy supplied), I placed the Cliffy and then re-installed everything in backwards order.

Now onto the MAP hole Cliffy...but I need to wait for a friend's extra hands to take that on since the ship has to come off completely.

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Why the hell they just cant install cliffy's at the factory or at least some factory mylar? Seems ridiculous for a machine almost costing 10k.

They mylar'd the heck out of these areas. They even put a couple extra mylar pieces in the goodie bag for optional areas (the VUK onto the black pearl playfield), but I haven't seen the need to install that yet.

The MAP hole is also heavily mylar'd, but I recently discovered that a small corner has begun to lift up, so I do want to get a Cliffy there soon.

I have to agree w/ you that I wish they would have partnered w/ Cliffy from the beginning and get these things installed at the factory. While I don't mind getting my hands dirty installing them, there is the bit about spending another ~$100 separately to protect your investment and I usually dread pulling things off the playfield or from underneath it because you can almost bet on losing grip on some mundane part (screw/washer) that you then have to waste an hour trying to find because its found its way underneath three more parts that need to come off to retrieve...or just simply forgetting how to re-plug everything back in as it was (hence take lots of pictures as you go). I usually make a list of things to fix or adjust all at once because I find the more times I lift up the playfield there's just that one more chance that I create a bigger problem to deal with.

For those who have Cliffies, where did you order from?

Use this https://pu-parts.com/assembly-blades and it will Not Happen again. I think Terry has them also

Kevin,
Cliff hasn't 'officially' posted the JJPOTC protectors on his site yet because they're somewhat a work-in-progress as he gathers input from people. He just added the MAP-2 piece to protect the rear wood edge, which I didn't get when I ordered.

Send him an email and he generates an invoice for you to respond to:
[email protected] or [email protected] to request ordering info
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EDIT:
Regarding the MAP-2 cliffy protector: Cliff recently made this piece for the small number of owners that want some protection for the back of the MAP hole. Over a dozen owners have reported to Cliff that there are no issues w/ the single MAP protector and the MAP-2 protector is totally optional. Honestly, I don't see how the ball would ever have enough momentum at that point going into the MAP hole to cause damage to the back of the hole. Cliff said he would NOT be making a new all-encompassing MAP protector.

Does anyone have the following measurements for POTC?

1) Max Height in service position with legs on; From the ground to the top of the playfield with the playfield fully up and leaning on the back box.
2) Width of the playfield from outer edge to outer edge. ( Not sure if it’s the same or a little different than a Bally/WMS widebody)

I have a low ceiling and am able to move a ceiling tile when needed for my Dialed In. There is not much room above the ceiling tile either.
With some manuevering I can get the bottom of the playfield in the ceiling tile slot when upright with maybe an inch of height to spare.
Not sure if I can do the same with POTC. So trying to see how wide and how high it will go.

Thanks!

I have a little damage at the back of my MAP hole (are we getting too personal here?) so that will be a welcome addition. I pinged Cliff again today and got my invoice so I’m good — looking forward to getting these on the game!

Should be the same. Just a little wider.

LTG : )

I bought these from Terry (Pinball Life) and they are … ok … but the thickness of these might not fit with the blades also. I was supposed to get my pin today but FEDEX gave me the "weather delay" excuse, so now I get it on Friday. I'll see how they fit on it and report back then. They are tight on my ACDC Prem with thicker powerbladez and I have to wiggle them in there … if I remember to do that.

Pic on how you bent them please? Interested ...

I only bent them in very slightly. Not sure if it will help or not, but those metal slider support things were too close to the cabinet sides for my liking. The playfield does sit tight in the cabinet on this game. Need to be very careful when lifting and lowering the playfield or risk damaging $80 side decals. A better approach might be to remove those pieces from the playfield and Dremel off a 1/4” from the end of the round lobe and then sand/smooth it out before reinstalling.

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Gameplay questions!

1. What does “spot gold” on the Pearl do, exactly?

2. What do the MAP targets do in relation to the spinner and activating the map hole award? I haven’t figured this out.

3. Is there benefit/effect from hitting all 4 GOLD targets?

Not sure about 1 and 3, but with 2, I believe, when you hit any of the 3 letters, the disc begins spinning. Once you light all 3 letters, the map hole award is available. Of course, the map hole award is always available on a skill shot.

I also have them and Titan artblades. Its
closely but it works and keep the artblades alive

Last night I bent the hinges and roughly cut and taped the tears on the art blades to see if it worked. If it did, then I would get a new set. Turns out it was not my problem. The playfield is literally that tight to the cabinet on my game. There is no way the side protectors would work since the width of 2 art blades is too much for my cabinet. 1 art blade can go in, but not two. It's a shame since I do like art or mirrors. At least I didn't do any damage. FYI, if you do bend those things be careful, they bend easy.

Wow

That is one of the worst findings and QC problems I have ever heard of

It's the same on my Dialed In. The playfield barely moves in between my Bladeskinz from Pingraffix.

No need to bend. Just remove and file the edges down slightly so that they do not protrude beyond the play field edge. Same thing with any metal components mounted at or near the edge plus upper play field parts like the metal frame on the The Hobbit that holds the "Killi spinner"; that one got my Hobbit art blade and I learned my lesson from it. Now, before I install any art blades, I examine the play field (upper and lower) for anything close to the outer edges and 'file away' or adjust as needed. The play field fit is still tight but now manageable.

1. still haven't figured that one out myself.
2. map targets need to be hit before the map award is lit. i'm not sure if the map targets do anything to the spinner itself
3. the only benefit i've noticed to hitting all 4 gold targets is the ability to add-a-ball during Tortuga multiball.

Lets see here..

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