Hey Josiah Happy for you on that purchase, saw it on FB.

USUALLY a call is the best bet, I've found. The support tickets in general seem to take longer than even just plain emails. I have had generally not had good luck in response from support tickets. If you've left a message then I would be it is being attended to. I'd give until Mon/Tues and then call again. Of course, it's NJ time so make sure you call early. Sounds like you did the troubleshooting already so hopefully the replacement is quick to ship.

You may not have holes, it's not like really integrated into the layout as much as just stuck on top of the rail. Btw, there are little, tiny spacers under the screws/rock (this is like the 5th situation where tiny spacers were used that YOU TOTALLY LOSE EVERY TIME). You may not need them, I haven't put it on without them yet, but if you didn't get them I bought a huge assortment from Amazon (because I have lost a few already) and could send you some.

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LOL, that is quicker. I kept finding stuff around the house to cut and use as spacers when I lost them.

Sry, just woke up You got it!

If *anyone* else decides to replace their pop bumpers with black/clear or whatever, do yourself a favor and pick up some of these quick connectors on Amazon. There is no way to replace the pops without cutting the wires, apparently the ends were soldered or crimped (not sure which was done last) after they were put through the pop bumpers so unless you want to solder RGB boards you have to cut the wires. The crimped ends won't fit through the holes in the pop bumper. I would normally solder and heat shrink my splices but in this case I wanted the option to easily remove without having to again cut and splice. I initially tried to remove the JST connector from the ends and slide them through the pops but like I said they just don't fit. If you have a CE/LE I believe the spinning pops can be removed just by undoing the molex connector ends with a pin removal tool. At least, I have some that I did that on a while ago and it seemed to have worked, lol.. I am just putting them back together today so I've forgotten, but seems likely.

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I should have not been lazy and found it originally, lol. Here it is:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072P15279/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

These were also interesting but I found them less consistent than the others. These are toolless where the ones above need something (strong hand power if you're good) to clamp them down and make them click. These are also huge in comparison:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K7FLLHT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

HEY! Where'd the switch go? Where'd the tab go?! How about that view?

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The RGB lighting has 4 wires, two go through each hole in the pops which is a REALLY tight fit. So unless you desolder them from the PCB boards you can't thread them back through the hole because the connector end has crimped pins which are too wide to fit side by side with the wire. The motor wires use large .093 molex connectors which are too large to fit through the holes, but you can desolder those from the motors much easier. I just didn't want to mess with the PCBs. In fact, I had a lot of .093 stuff here so I just cut the motor connectors to make it easier instead of lugging the soldering iron over to the game.

But yeah, in older games obviously the wires going to the lamp socket do the same route but it's much easier to deal with the two wires, generally which can be desoldered pretty easily. I'm always looking to put the game back together a bit better, easier, etc so in the future it's easier to work on.

WELCOME!

You shooter assembly is crooked

Possibly it's not just visual, it could be striking the ball off-center, so might want to adjust. If you do, be really careful of the cabinet decals. Mine were already busted by how tight it was cranked down so when I adjusted it I now have screwed up artwork showing.

It was actually designed based on some different pirate images/drawings but can definitely see how that comes to mind. Maybe we can do an alternate window design, suggestions?

https://pinballmods.co/Stand-up-illuminated-window-jjp-potc

---------- On another note ------------

Coming soon to a start button near you, first prototype. Lens color options, insert options (so far heart and skull) and light color options. Also options for effect controller add on, including heartbeat and flame flickering.

You sure that doesn't go up to the BP as well? I have had my playfield propped up for so long I forgot I don't even have the BP in. I believe the plug we are using goes to the main lighting board on the BP, if that is the same one you are looking at. So that is why we made it passthrough.

Ha, no one mentioned this video was private. I didn't really tip it too much so it was probably ignored, just wanted everyone to see and comment if you had any thoughts.

------------

Coming soon to a start button near you, first prototype. Lens color options, insert options (so far heart and skull) and light color options. Also options for effect controller add on, including heartbeat and flame flickering.

Uh, that's the linkage to the Black Pearl. The two holes should have screws in them and it attaches to a much smaller plate with a larger hole in it (with a white bushing). That smaller piece is likely attached to the rod which connects to the ship. Look behind the backboard, it's probably floating back there. Gonna have to find some screws (unless they are rattling around in your cabinet somewhere. You should check the cabinet for treasure, many people have found various parts floating around.

*Part #4 in the diagram is the little tab that is likely behind the backboard. The screws are 6-32 1/4"

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Naw, pretty standard. Stay the course matey. Don't let the game plunder you. There be pirates and repairs ahead.

Those are really common screws in pinball games, if you have any spare parts you probably have one.

If you want, I'll send you a screw and the neoprene washers. I still have a bunch, I think. PM me if you want them. Might even have some double star posts if you want them, not sure what color though.

Those are them. But get a titan, rubber is lame.

I didn't put them anywhere else. I think some put them in the starmap area. I guess maybe under the BP ramp since that is a sling too, but I've never had it escape.

Heh. I stand by my Titans. They may wear a bit faster but they look awesome and play awesome. Superbands aren't stretchy enough, IMHO. I have them all, even old school white rubber (which looks like crap unless you wear white gloves installing them and never play). At least with superbands and titan you can wipe them off.

Have you or anyone had issues with the post sleeves from them? I haven't seen that, would be interested to know. The only real issue I have ever seen is the starfield one, in terms of lots of wear.

I have some of those size here, I'll put them in. But I guarantee they will be 100% pristine in the many months to come.

My game hasn't been whole for many weeks.

I have no rippling around my neoprene. Did you use the narrow ones? I think that is a mistake, if anyone is doing it. The clear can't support that kind of lateral force on such a small area. Need the wider star post to spread the load. Light touch when tightening them down.

Backboard lighting is finally done, so anyone who ordered will start getting some ship notifications. I think it came out pretty good.

It's bit a moment but we're ready to ship our spinning pop bumper upgrade. Works for all versions of the game, a great upgrade for a matching set of interactive barrels on your LE/CE and CE's can upgrade to the Davy Jones model.

Only a few of each character in stock. Jack's might be able to be found still, but Davy's are hard to come by.

SE is a plug and play install, no complex wiring or soldering. Only need a ratchet and a screw driver. Should take about 20 minutes for a mechanical person, maybe an hour if you are meticulous.

Install video is being produced. Thanks for the patient waiting while we perfected this. 10 different prototype sets were created, finishing techniques tested and lighting toppers custom finished for best light transmission. The interactive lighting looks awesome. Videos will be posted to the product thread and website shortly, waiting on processing the uploads.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpotc-spinning-pop-bumpers-upgrade

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Why would the timing of the chest release have anything to do with how many balls are spit in to the shooter lane?

If I recall correctly, POTC like WOZ knows how many balls are locked up and adjusts when it knows a locked ball is missing.

Sounds like the shooter lane switch or trough optos might have some issue, no?

Yup, the code knows what it is in the chest. As long as the chest optos are reporting correctly the game seems to properly adjust based on that. Usually with the shooter lane ball load issues it's the lane switch or the trough switch.

Here's a fun little video I made of the spinning pop bumper upgrade.

Jack, JJP Jack? Or is this some other Jack?

Hah, really! I knew the name pinballsales.com but couldn't recall why. I thought maybe it was a reseller who also happened to be named Jack who was taking care of their customers. I maybe only had a few calls from JJP, you being one, and I think only once or twice did I see that caller ID, makes sense now. Just didn't put those two together.

Well, this is quite interesting. As you may all recall Jack specifically told me on a phone call that he would not be giving special treatment to anyone, that if he refunded or gave away playfields he would have to do it for everyone. Welp, guess we'll see what happens since it's a bit of a guessing game as to what JJP does quietly.

Honestly, aside from the prep work, the swap on this game is not going to be that bad for someone who is mechanically inclined. Having playfields side by side makes it cake. The fact that nothing is stapled to the playfield makes it easier. Not much to solder at all, in fact you could do it without soldering. All the daughter boards with plugs makes it simple. It's all the prepping of the holes, installing t-nuts properly, etc. which will take the most time I imagine. I just had basically all the upper playfield mechs off the game and put it back together in under an hour. Older games (I just did DE JP and TOM) are much more labor intensive. But a great time to do the black pop bumper swap and fix the little things (map t-nut, use starposts to start, mylar all the proper places, cliffys right away).

I don't see a reason to do it now either. If gameplay isn't affected just wait and see what happens. So far the test with the post on the new playfield seems ok, definitely not bunching up that I can see.

I really wish we had a definitive answer on the formulation of the replacement playfields (are they the same batch? same process?) along with a definitive answer on the issue (does it just need more cure time?). Because the replacement playfield I got is definitely harder than the one that is in the game. It would be good to have some conclusive statement to settle everyone's mind.

Wow. If they are really stepping up and doing that then props. It wasn't without a battle but hopefully this is a trend for manufacturers being more on the hook for this stuff. I'd hope JJP makes an announcement.

Yelobird posted a thread about ironing down the pooling on Wokna. Might take a look at that if that is the only issue you have. It's all speculative, but maybe an option. I've been meaning to look under one of the other posts that had pooling (under the BP) to see if the starpost/washer situation had done anything to push the clear back down.

Not sure if this has ever been posted about (I don't recall it) or if it's even a thing, but I did a thing so here it is. Someone just messaged me about a huge gap between the BP and the ramp. I recalled that I did this little "fix" to prevent the front/back motion on the BP. The tolerances are just too much on the various mounting bits and it lets the BP move front to back, which I don't think it needs. I just put a few washers on the pin to move it as far forward as it could go. I don't know the size, I can measure tomorrow. I just grabbed a few washers that I had in my washer bin, ideally I think nylon makes the best for less wear.

Not sure if this solved the issue KornFreak28 has with the gap (image attached) but it seems like it would be the most reasonable way to get the BP closer to the ramp. My BP has virtually no front to back movement now.

It's a bit tricky to get the washers on there and get the pin installed, definitely a pain each time you remove it. I'll make a small 3D printed washer to go there if I can't find one that fits right, if anyone needs/wants it.

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Here's a video on the washer thing. I'm going to print out a washer that fits there for myself along with a protector plate for the backboard where the actuating arm bushing rubs (mine is starting to wear the wood down). I'll add the BP actuating kit to the store if anyone wants it.

Where? They are much too large to fit under the narrow sling posts.

Here is the prototype of the BP actuator protection kit (I don't know what the heck to call it). I don't know if it's even necessary, but I'm installing it on mine. It actually helps with a few things.

1. The shoulder bolt goes in to the bushing so it's easier to get the bushing on the back support pin and thread the shoulder bolt in.
2. The support pin bushing pushes the BP all the way forward, no slack front to back.
3. The rear protection plate gives a surface with much less friction and a "wear layer" to prevent the backboard from getting gouged (mine is somewhat gouged now).
4. The actuating pin (that connects the link arm to the BP) has a replacement bushing that has a lip on it which mates up with the protection plate. I think it provides better motion but I need to get everything back together to confirm this all works as smoothly as it should. The bushing and plate slide really smoothly against each other.

These are made from carbon fiber composite PLA and are quite strong. The plate is only .5mm right now so it's bendy but once it is in place that doesn't matter. These are printed in draft mode so finished pieces will be much smoother looking.

I'll post a video of installation and results so folks can comment.

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Here is a video of what I was talking about.

Forgot to get a pic, here is a crappy screen cap where you can see the wear on my backboard.

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Go in test mode and use a pencil or something to activate the opto, see if it registers properly. Make sure they are aligned properly.

I have WOZ and JJPOTC and suggest both

Oh wow, I didn't hear this. That's great, I posted about this a while before (in conjunction with balls not making it around the loop when they should) and didn't know this was acknowledged. If only there were a centralized thread about POTC software updates

Sure would be nice to get a software update. I like that someone posted a Jack quote from a while back where he basically said they only will release finished software and games. Pshaw.

BP actuation protection & alignment kit posted on Pinside if anyone wants to jump in the pool with me:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1202-pinball-mod-co/02862-potc-black-pearl-actuating-protection-amp-alignment-kit

Do you still have that big gap between the BP and the ramp? Can you lift up the BP (meaning it is not in the mounting pins all the way)?

If the VUK isn't kicking the ball up with enough force then you can change the setting and increase the power. Most people have turned it down because it had so much force it was hitting the spinner optos on the BP. You want just enough power to make it up the VUK scoop. This really only applies if the issue is the ball isn't getting kicked up with enough force the first time. If the ball gets lost first then I would check the VUK switch and just roll the ball in there manually in test mode and see if the switch registers each time and if the VUK fires properly.

I don't know how many times it might try to kick it up the VUK before stopping. I know that other coils stop after a bunch of tries (like the chest release, if the optos aren't aligned). So depending on what the sequence of events is, maybe it's hunting for the ball after not being able to kick it up?

If the ball is having trouble when the ship is tilted, I go back to my first questions. If the BP isn't installed right or there is a broken mount then it likely is not aligned well for the VUK. It's somewhat tight clearances back there and I could see the ship blocking the exit.

That ramp shouldn't be tilted, no. How's the top end of that near the BP? Is the BP clear ramp aligned now? Is the wireform inserted in to that ramp properly? If so, worst case you can use some channel lock pliers and a rag to bend that front mount a bit.

I have one too and never installed it.

Yeah, one end or the other. I don't see how slightly bending the mounting tab would deform the middle. I'm just talking about the "foot" that sits on the plastic. And you can easily bend the middle back in to shape as well with your hands. Maybe I just man handle mine more than others, lol.

There's no buying a manual, as far as I know.

http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/potc/POTC_Manual%202_0%20November%202018.pdf

Maybe we could do a group buy on getting them printed and bound? Anyone else want one?

Oh, I believe it. Hence the group buy. I also have a color printer that duplexes so...

It may just be the angle of this pic, but can the gate on the VUK move fully? It almost looks like it would hit the BP. If your BP was too far back, hence the gap in the front you had, then maybe it is contacting the gate. Although I think for it to dump out it would likely be passing the gate. I think the game might compensate on the 3rd kick in a row by adding more power. So maybe on the 3rd kick it makes it past the gate but not enough and that is what dumps it back down. Why it ends up on top of the plastic there doesn't make sense. But again, if your BP is weird in alignment or something is broken all bets are off.

JJP probably wouldn't like me selling it. So if we get 25 orders we can split the cost at like $16/piece plus shipping to your location. Or if you want to order direct it's $39 with free shipping.

bookbaby.com

I have the full WOZ manual, I like it.

Looks like if we can get 25 people together we can get it printed and shipped to one person for $50/ea at bookbaby.com. That's at 9x12", so a bit smaller than the real thing but probably big enough. Otherwise I am betting you have to print 11x17 and trim because it's an odd size. Full color, perfect bound. No option for spiral bound. Maybe just hole punched and in a folder so you can replace pages later?

Yea. It will report some errors.

Humm... now print my own crappy one for 1/2 that or get the nice one to match my WOZ.

Waiting...

1/4" socket with long extension or maybe a nut driver. Or maybe carefully with pliers from under the ramp if you don't have one.

Yeah, under the ramp

I don't think you have to remove the BP ramp if you do the VUK. I may have said that, I may be wrong. Mine's been off for a while so I forget.

You could put a towel over the backbox to help cushion it. I've never had an issue.

I don't recall. But the all come out the same hole. Just trace them to each point. Most come apart right there, some go to lighting boards. The lighting board ones should be color coded, if not make sure you mark them. Take a pic before you remove them.

Ah yeah, bend the wireform a bit wherever it is hitting.

Unscrew the t-nut from the bottom (if it is that loose) and just pull the post out with the ramp, if you can. Then you can fix it off the game. I can't remember if you can get the rest of that plastic out without the ramp being out of the way.

I think you're right. The screw to remove the metal "man overboard" should be able to be reached under the end of the ramp.

Take off the plastic with the post. Remove all the other nuts and screws holding that plastic on and pull out the ramp and the plastic at the same time. Then you can put two washers on the bottom of that post, snugged together, hold them with pliers and remove the nut off the top.

I do not have that on mine.

Under game settings there are ship movement controls which can be set to increase based on stages completed with minimum settings. Maybe those got changed?

Could someone do me a favor and take a pic straight down at the gap between your BP and the ramp?

Heh, well, lucky you!

Yeah, that's what I'm seeing. I think it's related to the ramp screws to the playfield. I just don't remember what mine looked like before, months ago, when I had it all together.

Your second photo looks like it's angled, but not the first one. I can't get the front left side to have enough gap, it looks a lot like your second photo. I even re-drilled my front left ramp screw to pull the ramp that way. I don't know if everyone has their ramp screws drilled in the same place, but mine were really weirdly positioned... way in the back and the screws angled backwards.

Weird, going to mess with it some more. I wish there was more room at the bottom of the ramp to adjust it, that would give a lot more control over the top.

Thanks!

Have you every had your Black Pearl Out? If so, you need to readjust the position. Simply loosen the 1/8" allen nut in the back on the BP shaft... pull the BP as far forward as it will go... .then tighten the allen nut on the shaft. Should be good to go.
Many people forget you're supposed to pull the BP forward before tightening that allen nut back down.

Yeah, the shoulder bolt needs to go all the way down. But even then the BP has about, I don't know... 3-4mm of travel front to back, at least. I am going to work on some fixes for the BP ramp which will hopefully let us align the top better (left to right leveling) and adjust the angle of attack, as it were. The restriction seems to be where the ramp hits the playfield, there are obstacles on each side which prevent the ramp from being able to be rotated.

I made this to help keep the BP forward. Just added on to the kit to provide a few different bushings to allow for some even finer adjustments. In case your BP can't be all the way forward you can space it out from the front as well.

https://pinballmods.co/potc-black-pearl-actuating-protection-amp-alignment-kit

A few people have reported issues with one of the sling post screws under the BP ramp pushing in to the ramp causing a bump in the ramp and messing up the bottom. Looking to provide a fix for this at the same time.

There are settings in the game which let you define intensity and effect based on goals.

Since you don't have to move the ramp, it's not a big deal to remove the BP, like others said.

REALLY? Arg... I don't think I can convince my wife to replace our 2nd WOZ which is an RR with a new RR. Damnit, would have loved that option.

I really just wanted a new ECLE. I didn't know about the "green" edition, but I also wanted the toys of the RR. I bought a used SE when I found out about the game (I was only playing and collecting old BW games basically) when I couldn't find anything else local. I ended up shipping a RR to me which had the gouvea mods (hard to come by) mostly for that reason but I would have loved a new one. Never have had a new game. I don't know if I even knew about YBR at that time, but I probably wouldn't have done it. Gotta have the monkey! Basically my story with POTC, when I finally figured out about the game, found somewhere to play it and looked for one it was just when everyone was posting they were sold out, at least LE were. I was going to end up with SE shipped to me but found the LE for sale locally and jumped on it.

I was the in line for Wonka new and cancelled when the whole playfield thing started.

Did JJP offer new playfields to Wonka owners too? Anyone here get a credit for the discounted ones they purchased yet for POTC? In the other thread people were saying Jack called them and said they would get a credit. I didn't get a call or a credit, wondering what is going on there.

Rumors being posted about JJP running out of POTC parts and not going to produce any more. Has anyone heard or been told this by JJP?

Dedicated thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjp-running-out-of-potc-parts

I'll look into printing and selling it, koops has PM. You can also print right from thingverse if people didn't see that.

I was going to be working on an overall ramp support for the middle to fix that screw pushing up in to the bottom of the ramp and see if I could allow it to rotate the ramp a little (if needed) to align it with the BP better.

I'm printing them both right now and my ramp isn't installed so should be able to test soon.

Oh, btw... I printed a manual from an online supplier. I'll let you know how it turns out. It was about 50% of the cost of the actual manual, but not the full size. Something like 12x9 finished size, which isn't the right proportions either so there will be some blank space on the page.

I also removed the protection from the file so I could copy/paste from it. That was so freaking annoying. Had to find a site that would handle such a large file, not sure if I should post it but if people want it I can send it.

HAH... great design. The smaller one is actually a bit too tall for my game, which I think is going to be a situation with a lot of people. Game variances and such will make it so we need adjustability. koops and I are PMing on possible changes, he's already made one prototype. I think we'll have something really functionally awesome and solving a lot of alignment issues.

Might look better in a darker color, heh. Testing out some options here.

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Not sure how it's going to work out with the lip. Gonna have to play with it on and see. Can only print so thin.

I thought someone said cliffy wasn't going to make them?

I think it looks weird only being a partial piece. Figured the protection would be nice, finishing the edge, blending in with a color other than stainless, etc.

Ah cool, more of my money going to Cliffy

Yeah, I was looking at what materials would be best. I think my best option at this point is PETG. I can't print nylon yet, waiting on some parts to upgrade.

Yes, but will the Stern one have less clear coat issues?

Where's that clip of Jack saying they don't release games with unfinished code?

There are also a few legit issues and gripes with the current code, again listed in the other thread I started. I think those should be addressed.

DOH.

I'm sort of amazed that it's one dude doing all the coding, if that is the case. I can definitely commiserate with the block of time necessity, focus is paramount.

Ah makes sense. Since you seem to know, do you know what language they write in? It seems like JJP has a "code base" they created with WOZ and reuse parts of it, yea? Wish there was more info out there about the programming aspects of modern games, but I assume a lot of that is kept under wraps.

After using it a few times you'll get used to it. The nice thing with the PDFs is the index/thumbnails and searching. Lloyd used to point me to pages, I used to email Shannan asking about parts without numbers... now I can find most everything in the manual. They are definitely works of art.

When I got my first WOZ it had like an 80 page manual or something.. I never really used it. When I got my 2nd WOZ it had the full manual, as thick as the POTC one I imagine. I looked back at the original one I had and it had like "coming soon" at the back sections, lol. Compared to the other game manuals I had from B/W games the small WOZ one was detailed and thick. Then when I saw the full one it was somewhat breathtaking. I printed my own POTC manual just for kicks, waiting for it to be delivered. Wonder how it will compare. I hardly crack the WOZ one, not only because it's easier and handier to use the PDF but also because it's so ... shiny and new. My grubby hands just mess it up.

Seems self-inflicted. Like having a private google group as your only real means of communication. Getting out ahead of bad press would probably do wonders for the hostility. Even some announcement posts that weren't monitored would probably give a lot of credit. Heck, the playfield situation should have been announced and would have gotten fan fair but since it wasn't the benefit of that PR is lost. JJP seems to have a void when it comes to PR. And to really cut off communication with one of the largest online communities of your very specific customer base seems hella short sighted. Take the lumps, if you aren't doing shit wrong then you have nothing to worry about. Customers would come to your defense if there was defendable action.

My self-printed manual arrived. It's 8.5x14" spiral bound. They screwed up and made the 2nd page both the cover and the 2nd page, so waiting to hear back on that. Otherwise it's fantastic quality. It was about 1/2 the price. Ordered it from zingprint.com. I wanted to get the metal wire binding, I think that is what is on WOZ manual, but apparently they didn't have that size in stock. Seems fine with the spiral, just not as fancy. The paper is very thick and glossy. The cover is a nice paper, just not printed with the actual cover design.

I must have chosen wrong on the binding, side instead of top... I don't recall. Probably better on the top, less page to turn.
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I don't know why it's not entirely reasonable to expect a game to ship with all of the features it's sold as. Or at least not unreasonable to expect that those features be added quickly thereafter.

That's what it all comes back to. With the playfield, with code updates, other issues. JJP is silent except for announcing on social media when they have a code update or when someone sends them a picture of their machines out in the wild. I don't know what goes on in the Google group, can't get in, but that should not be the only place they relay info to customers. They have a huge email database, they should use it. Nothing makes people happier than being informed about updates, timing, etc. Keeps customers engaged, knowledgable and off your back.

Or, the other route is to shroud everything in mystery, make the customers wonder and work hard to get the information and support they need, etc. I mean how many people really know about the several replacement parts or kit fixes that are out of the POTC? The lest JJP could do is have a single public location they put all of this information. A minimum effort of email sending would go a long way, not to mention I bet they would see a substantial uptick in product sales if they threw up some JJP merch and offered it through the newsletters, maybe a discount code now and then for parts, etc.

Ah but what do I know. Then they would have to expose the ugly underbelly of the whole thing and the wizard behind the curtain might be disappointing.

Chicken or egg, though? I mean, is it mischaracterizing the situation to suggest that JJP has had continued issues and poor customer interaction since the original WOZ playfield issues? Did they bring the complaining on themselves? Because they sure do it now. I don't think it's impossible for a company to have customer interaction in online spaces and be able to fend off and deal with complaints. Because if you are doing a good job, people want to sing your praises. I would loved to have helped JJP take a lead in the PR of the playfield swap they eventually seem to be offering (I haven't gotten a refund) and make it known far and wide that they were stepping up. But it's almost like some sort of masquerade that no one can know what is going on and everything is 2nd or 3rd hand knowledge that someone heard from someone. Maybe Jack dropped a note in this podcast or someone from JJP told this one guy who called them this other thing. I feel like they created the mess they are in by the way they showed their customers to treat them. If you stand up, take stock and handle your shit you dont have to worry about being overwhelmed by complaints. If you, however, hide in your own private forum and don't have any real contact publicly with your customers then you've drawn a line in the sand.

How far would a god damn monthly email newsletter with little important pieces of information go? Like "Hey, if you have this old snubber bracket on your POTC fill out this form and we'll get you the fix" .... you know? Not really that hard to do and then you have an atmosphere of inclusion and upfront behavior. Instead there are upset people because they aren't being treated how you would expect to be treated by a company that takes so much of your disposable income for a game/hobby. This isn't a need, no one HAS to buy a pinball machine... but surely those who save up, drop what amounts to almost a new car cost on a wooden box with some flippers, they want to be treated as if they matter to the company.

Not only that... you just have to do it with the game on. No biggie. LOL

I read the method.. I have done a lot of legit stupid things but this sounds like a pucker moment. Less so on the vertical motherboards, but I have to do it on my WOZ which is horizontal. I'm trying to remember if, back in the day when we worked on PCs, replacing a BIOS battery always cleared the BIOS. I know we never did it with the machine on, so it must have. Seems like there should be a way to get around that with a clip on battery or something, you know, just temporary while changing the battery, versus the game being on. Seems logical enough, is there no where else to wire up a coin cell to for a temporary supply?

Well, koops went way out of his way to improve upon his BP ramp support and alignment piece. He was kind enough to take my plethora of input and changes to make something that should work for everyone. I printed out a test today and am going to be testing it out later tonight to see how it all fits and works. If everything goes well then I should have some ready to ship this week.
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Pic is missing one piece I was still printing. Uses set screws to adjust the saddles to level and support the left and right side of the ramp.

Any how many plays?

Mine was on route before I got it, nothing unique compared to whatever everyone else posted but only 2500 plays.

Might want to trim that other bracket. Although preventing the flex it might not be an issue now, but it still kills me that it's sticking out past the guide. I'm definitely going to give this a shot, can't hurt and I'm guessing we're narrowing down issues here.

Btw, someone asked a while back. I did get a manual printed, $50 or so. It does not come with the "making of" pages but it was printed the same size and quality of the original (compared to my WOZ, at least). They even printed me some extra covers for POTC and WOZ (my woz was all messed up). Sadly, I screwed up and coil bound it on the left side instead of the top but cest la vi it still works. Although I find myself running upstairs to look at the PDF more often than pulling out the bound manuals. So much easier to search the PDF.

It was more a fun experiment than anything.

Gabriel at zingprint.com took care of me, went above and beyond.
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I was able to get the ball to hit the bracket with my hand but never investigated further since I just cut it and then I didn't have to worry; eliminated one possibility.

Could easily make a support for there, it would be very strong.

Could make a part to fit here as well. Not sure how well a printed part would hold up to ball wear but I would bet pretty good if printed in a good material and solid.

The wife is never wrong.

Anyone interested in a better topper? I've been working on some ideas and they are also lightly integrated with gameplay. It wouldn't be cheap but it would be easy to install and provide some fun interaction.

Hey, at least we have a completed manual! Poor Wonka folk.

Believe me, if we could get access to modify the code I'd be all over it. The code request thread I started has at least 15+ good changes that need to be made. Maybe we'll get to a v1 one of these days.

Key word was completed.

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Nope, but Heater is on the right track. Pirate skull with movement, ships, gold, lighting interaction with game. I am researching a few elements and how best to accomplish them.

What if licensing is a prohibiting factor? Isn't that what we were told?

Yeah, I'm not getting a Wonka anymore for my next pin, Spooky is my new favorite (R&M!!).

I paid for the replacement discounted playfield, Jack never contacted me after he contacted others telling them about the free playfield (but I don't think any announcement was ever made anywhere). I disputed my charge since he never responded to my contacting him and they denied the claim, CC company never contacted me so I don't know why and I haven't called them yet. Sounds like I am out $550 for the thing everyone else will get for free. If/when others get their free playfields I'll contact JJP again and see if they will make this right.

JJP really dropped the ball on this. Such a sad showing of "committed to their satisfaction"....

There must be 5-10 actual bugs identified in the code request thread, some which sound like they aren't going to get taken care of in the next release which is sad.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/potc-code-change-game-play-requests-