Quoted from paynemic:I got to the wizard mode in a 45 minute game. Very doable.
Noice
Quoted from paynemic:I got to the wizard mode in a 45 minute game. Very doable.
Noice
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Are these the correct size to fit the upper playfield flippers?
The left upper flipper is standard size?
Thanks!
Check page C-130 and C-131 in the manual.
LTG : )
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:In the club as of today!!
[quoted image]
Congrats matey - that be a fine choice of a game!
Arrr!
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:Congrats matey - that be a fine choice of a game!
Arrr!
Ahoy! Welcome aboard you salty sea slug! Yarrr!
Quoted from insight75:Congrats. Are the vice grips used to lower the lift table?
Yes! The cable was connected to a hand lever. When you close the hand lever it puts pressure on the jack via the cable to release it. The cable just recently broke off the handle so I use vice grips to haul the cable tight manually and release the jack!
Richard
Hi all. You have seen a bunch of my posts trying to get my POTC working. I am happy to announce that the machine is back together and playing nicely. Here are the mods/fixes I ended up installing:
1) Chest mod. Btw, anyone looking to do this, PM me. I think I found a way to calibrate this mod much easier than is shown on the vids
2) Kraken over the whirlpool
3) New Titan rubbers
4) Lantern mod on the upper ship playfield
5) New Chest bracket
6) New back bracket for upper ship playfield
7) Shadow Box
8) Full Cliffy set
I still want to put the disc silencer on now. At first I didn't think that noise would bother me, but it is annoying the way it is. I also may do the translight mod to brighten it up. I am also going to do the capacitor upgrade for the I/O board. I did that project for my GnR and TH and it was well worth the effort.
Beyond that I want to work on a custom topper. Not sure what I am going to do yet, but noodling on it for now.
Thanks all for your help getting to this point. W/O this forum, there is not a chance this thing would be working.
Dave
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:In the club as of today!!
[quoted image]
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:This wifi usb is not working for me after the update. Any thoughts?
[quoted image]
I think you have to opt in somewhere in the menu.
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:I think you have to opt in somewhere in the menu.
I selected my wifi network, then entered my wifi password. Tried a few time. Just says failed.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:I selected my wifi network, then entered my wifi password. Tried a few time. Just says failed.
I’m pretty sure there are terms and conditions somewhere you have to re opt in to after the update.
Uncheck them them and select again.
Quoted from pinball_keefer:We had a bug (think the fix is pending release) that certain characters didn't work in network name or password, might be that. (If you're technically minded, not escaped properly.) I don't have a full list offhand, but things like ' " \ etc.
Also. I’m not sure if they ever fixed the issue but if you have any special characters in your password see above.
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:I’m pretty sure there are terms and conditions somewhere you have to
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:I think you have to opt in somewhere in the menu.
Two things you need to find and do.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Two things you need to find and do.
LTG : )
Ok. I did the terms and conditions already.
I’ll look in the menu to try and opt in tonight!
Thanks!
Weird issue popping up. When I start the machine, it usually now activates the metal piece that lets the walls out of the chest around 5 or 6 times then stops. And yesterday, it was randomly kicking a ball out even though there was no multiball. And then sometimes it started a multiball for no reason. Also, when it kicked the ball out, 50% of the time when one ball drained it ended everything. After we played a while it seemed to mostly stop. Anyone seeen this, know how to fix?
It is tough to troubleshoot sporadic problems, but when you see it is happening, try going into the switch test to see if any of those switches are going off and on. I believe they are optos. You might have a flaky plug going to an opto board?
Quoted from lhammer610:The stickers on the X2, X3, etc. targets on my JJP POTC are getting worn out. Anyone know where I can get a new set? I see lots of upgrades for stickers but no replacements for these.[quoted image][quoted image]
You can order them straight from JJP:
Quoted from glpinball:Weird issue popping up. When I start the machine, it usually now activates the metal piece that lets the walls out of the chest around 5 or 6 times then stops. And yesterday, it was randomly kicking a ball out even though there was no multiball. And then sometimes it started a multiball for no reason. Also, when it kicked the ball out, 50% of the time when one ball drained it ended everything. After we played a while it seemed to mostly stop. Anyone seeen this, know how to fix?
I had the same issue a few years ago. It was a bad opto for the chest. First start by unplugging and then plugging it back in. Clean the opto themselves. If none of that works, then most likely it is the opto itself which you have to replace like mine. Good luck
Quoted from lhammer610:The stickers on the X2, X3, etc. targets on my JJP POTC are getting worn out. Anyone know where I can get a new set? I see lots of upgrades for stickers but no replacements for these.[quoted image][quoted image]
I ordered and received a set recently. Be advised, if you go by the pictures on the JJP website you'll think that you're going to get 2 sets of the numbered target stickers. Nope. Just one. They also sent me two right side apron decals instead of a left/right.
Quoted from Heater:You can order them straight from JJP:
http://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/Parts/Pirates-of-the-Caribbean-Parts/POTC-Playfield-Decal-Sheet.html
Thanks for that. Was hoping to just get the stickers for the targets. I don't need anything else. But I guess that is one sheet of printing.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Is there a better option available?
The frame is held on to the backbox by strong magnets.
There is some adjustment with the monitor where it mounts to the frame. I'd look into that.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:The frame is held on to the backbox by strong magnets.
There is some adjustment with the monitor where it mounts to the frame. I'd look into that.
LTG : )
My potc doesn’t have the magnets like my Wonka and the newer games. It has metal latches and wood blocks to prevent them from coming out. Mine is an early LE #80 maybe they went to the magnets mid run.
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Edit: removed it!!
Just noticed this foam black pad stuck to the playfield behind the Chapter Start targets.
Is that supposed to be there!?
Thanks!
Richard
[quoted image]
That looks like the pad that is normally on the inside back wall of the chest.
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:My potc doesn’t have the magnets like my Wonka and the newer games. It has metal latches and wood blocks to prevent them from coming out. Mine is an early LE #80 maybe they went to the magnets mid run.
Same here. Mine has the metal latches, not magnets to hold LCD in place. LE#69
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:Previous owner had these under the monitor. I assume to prevent the monitor from sagging, I assume?
Is there a better option available?
Thanks!
Richard
[quoted image]
Mine started sagging shortly after I got it. JJP sent me a new bracket to hold the video screen in place. Not sure they would cover it now that it is several years old.
I also figured out (I think this is right) that removing the screen and bracket, then turning the bracket upside down, reattaching the bracket, then the monitor would raise it back up. For a while anyway.
I have seen other people cut pieces of wood blocks to raise it up into the correct position. But what the previous owner did looks ok and allows for a smaller height adjustment.
Anyone have audio glitches on the latest code? I've had it twice... sounds like the sound is bricked/locked on... terrible noise for a few seconds then it works fine. Happened during a mystery award.
Been offered a SE or LE; I'm assuming there's too much missing on the SE to consider it? My largest concerns are the RGB inserts and night sky.
Quoted from Merendino:Been offered a SE or LE; I'm assuming there's too much missing on the SE to consider it? My largest concerns are the RGB inserts and night sky.
SE has RGB. It actually seems completely loaded. You wouldn’t miss anything by getting the SE IMO. It’s also the rarest
Quoted from Merendino:Been offered a SE or LE; I'm assuming there's too much missing on the SE to consider it? My largest concerns are the RGB inserts and night sky.
Get the LE, the game is too good to own a SE or check which one has less pooling/ chipping.
Quoted from VisitorQ:Get the LE, the game is too good to own a SE or check which one has less pooling/ chipping.
Don’t agree…My SE is loaded and has more on it then an LE does currently. Not difficult to add either as I’m
not a huge mod guy generally speaking. Having said that get what you feel comfortable with
Quoted from TomN:Don’t agree…My SE is loaded and has more on it then an LE does currently. Not difficult to add either as I’m
not a huge mod guy generally speaking. Having said that get what you feel comfortable with
Or get a CE and get everything!
Quoted from TomN:Don’t agree…My SE is loaded and has more on it then an LE does currently. Not difficult to add either as I’m
not a huge mod guy generally speaking. Having said that get what you feel comfortable with
Easy to say when you own a SE.
I do agree that POTC is one of those games that looks great loaded with mods. Anymore I steer clear of junking up my games with all these non-official mods with some exceptions but with POTC, they really make the game shine.
lol Yeah go for the CE!
Quoted from VisitorQ:Easy to say when you own a SE.
I do agree that POTC is one of those games that looks great loaded with mods. Anymore I steer clear of junking up my games with all these non-official mods with some exceptions but with POTC, they really make the game shine.
lol Yeah go for the CE!
Hey now, I may be a foolish with my money but even I have limits; those CEs are too rich for my blood.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:SE is rarest and gameplay is exactly the same.
SE is rarest because it appealed to buyers the least. And continues to do so.
Quoted from Merendino:Hey now, I may be a foolish with my money but even I have limits; those CEs are too rich for my blood.
I wouldn't settle for less than an LE personally. The only thing on the CE that ever really appealed to me was the topper. No problem passing on Davy Jones on playfield and added barnacle growths.
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:SE is rarest because it appealed to buyers the least. And continues to do so.
.
Incorrect statement of POTC…… your opinion, yes
I didn't intend to spark a debate, my apologies. I assumed the SE models are scarce due to low sales; the price difference on average is about $3k and I was simply curious if it's worth paying less.
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:SE is rarest because it appealed to buyers the least. And continues to do so.
SE is the rarest because when the game was released, the price difference from the SE and LE made it a much easier decision to go LE and neither model sold well. If you wanted one then, $1000 premium for Invisiglass, spinning pop bumper pirate, star map, plastic topper, Devil's triangle sculpt, external headphone jack, black powder coat and full RGB GI was a pretty much no-brainer. Now aside from the full RGB iGI LEDs, almost all that stuff can be added to an SE for cheaper and in some cases better than the original LE. So current day the premium cost (Pinside says $3500 on average) for an LE over an SE, the value just isn't nearly the same since the playfields on both models are still exactly the same.
Quoted from LesManley:SE is the rarest because when the game was released, the price difference from the SE and LE made it a much easier decision to go LE and neither model sold well. If you wanted one then, $1000 premium for Invisiglass, spinning pop bumper pirate, star map, plastic topper, Devil's triangle sculpt, external headphone jack, black powder coat and full RGP inserts was a pretty much no-brainer. Now aside from the full RGP insert LEDs, all that stuff can be added to an SE for cheaper and in some cases better than the original LE. So current day the premium cost (Pinside says $3500 on average) for an LE over an SE, the value just isn't nearly the same since the gameplay on both models is still exactly the same.
Stated very well here. I’ve added all the features and sculptures that the LE has and then some for a pretty reasonable price. With gameplay being identical, I’m not quite sure it’s worth the extra cost for the LE or for sure the CE. However, feel free to buy the version you want.
Quoted from Green-Machine:Incorrect statement of POTC…… your opinion, yes
If more had been desired by buyers, JJP would have made more. Touting the scarcity of the SE as adding value is for "collectors" that also prize lower game placard #'s.
Quoted from LesManley:... Now aside from the full RGP insert LEDs, almost all that stuff can be added to an SE for cheaper and in some cases better than the original LE. So current day the premium cost (Pinside says $3500 on average) for an LE over an SE, the value just isn't nearly the same since the playfields on both models are still exactly the same.
Full RGP insert LEDs continues to be a major difference. Besides the cost and effort of adding the numerous other features the SE lacks, that alone was, and still is, a deal killer.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!