There is one this for Hobbit as well but it changes the way the game plays.

Cheater Gate

If you ain’t cheating, you ain’t trying hard enough.

Lol

Well it looks like I’m gonna have to move/ remove the pearl. Cleaning Optimus not work. Matrixed switch report finally showed issues and it’s 3 that start multiballs <insert many swear words>. Thanks LTG
IMG_8857 (resized).jpeg

It's not that bad. And gives you a chance to clean under it.

When I worked on mine, I left the connectors under the main playfield alone. Put shop towels on the left area of the rocking playfield.

Lift main playfield up and pull forward and rest on lockdown bar receiver area.

Then look behind back wall of playfield, remove clip from sheet metal arm hooked to rocking playfield, lower arm. Then between rocking playfield and back wall, remove the allen head bolt sticking up.

Slide rocking playfield back and lift off of the two bearings it rests in. Set on shop towel.

Now clean below it, fix broken wires. Go over harness and try and get a little slack here and there to lessen broken wires under there. Reassemble. Holding rocking playfield just right to get it back into those two bearings is a little tricky. Put bolt back in, put arm that rocks it back on.

Done.

LTG : )

Hold the front up a little and it goes easier lining the pivot points up, then slide forward.

LTG : )

I appreciate the advice and tips. Just gonna have to find the time and patience, both items at a constrained premium right now.

Interesting side effect: ball 2 & 3 opto are intermittent for chest lock.

Lock Ball one
2nd chest ball not recognized
LONG ball search
Drops both balls for “ball search multi ball”

3rd chest ball registers as Lock Ball 2
4th chest ball not recognized
LONG ball search
Drops both balls for “ball search multi ball”

5th chest ball registers as Lock Ball 3 for actual chest multi ball

Lemons to make ….

Also @here. If anyone is looking to sell liorillusion “art of pinball” POTC items, please DM me. Looks like im gonna be under the hood a lot on PoTC. I’m looking to upgrade some areas and specifically looking for the “7-piece playfield plastics” and the Mini LCD cover. And open if anyone has items like the dauntless ship, etc …..

It's harder to reinstall than deinstall.

I've had the rocking ship off/on mine about 1/2 dozen times. It may not be needed, but I find it easier to remove by taking out the VUK metal tube behind it. Just need some good magnetic tools.

It's natural when trying to line up the pivot points to hold the rocking playfield level. Lean the front down a little and it slides right into place. When it rocks smooth by hand, stuff a rag behind it so it doesn't slide back. Then put the allen head screw back in.

LTG : )

I always remove the rear vuk when taking out the ship as well. I thought this was common practice.

I am the original owner of mine and have had to remove the pearl so many times I've lost count. I have never removed the VUK when doing so. Once it is off the pivot points, simply twisting it under it and it comes out without a problem.

I will have to try this next time. I'm all for any steps saved. So far I've had a wire come off of a flipper coil, a wire come off of a switch, and of course just cleaning underneath.

Not sure if I’m making things better or worse. As I fix things, find more broken. I guess a pin is never done.

Update on the LED ramp.

Learned and sourced needed LED
Learned how to solder and heat wrap
Realized too many lights were out
Read manual figured out fuse issue
Replaced fuse.

Apparently my playfield has been dark as hell since I bought it. Now it looks like a Roman candle. Thanks LTG and folks for tips and tricks.
IMG_8769 (resized).jpegIMG_8866 (resized).jpegIMG_8875 (resized).jpegIMG_8876 (resized).jpeg

Stuck closed usually means switch is engaged and registering. That can affect others down the line also. Go into switch test and see if you can unstick them before tearing everything apart.

I’ve been on that screen. Is their something to unstick, or do you mean physically manipulate the the switches and check them on the switch test screen? Thanks.

Thanks for that detail.

I am getting ready to do this, but to change the rubber ring underneath. This is to fix the STDM. I was able to rotate the left rubber ring, but rotating the right one under the Pearl is not easy.

Screenshot 2024-06-17 at 10.51.42 AM (resized).png

Those are all optos. If they read 'stuck closed', I believe they are all working. I think this is the case because I get a 'Target Ship Bullseye' stuck closed error on occasion when I don't make the cannon shot through the target for a while - I think. I clear that error by taking off the glass and sticking my finger through that target to activate the switch - by interrupting the opto.

I think that is right - I might be exactly off on this. I get confused by the operation of optos. On WPC pins, the optos are shown closed when the opto is not interrupted. But on Sega / Stern, the optos are shown as open until the beam is interrupted. This way, it acts like a physical switch.

How long has it been since you played the game and used these switches? Go into the switch test, take off the glass and try spinning the left spinner and see if it registers. And while you are at it, try spinning the right one. If they do work, play a game with the glass off, grab the ball, spin the spinners to activate the opening to the cannon, then roll the ball into the cannon and see if it senses it. If it does not, you will need to use the solenoid test to get the ball out.

Again, I might be wrong on the operation of the optos here.

Screenshot 2024-06-17 at 10.53.35 AM (resized).png

I have had the glass up. Spun every spinner, cleaned/ attempted to clean these options. The bayou and malstrom, I need to take off
Some subways.

The black pearl’s optos are much more accessible and nothing I’ve done to physically touch, clean or reposition has helped so far, but I’ll take any thought between now and next week when I remove the pearl.

Thanks again.

That is right.

LTG : )

Hmm …

So open = not working.
And closed = stuck in active state

I’ll have to mess around again with the glass off and field up to see if I can get them to open state. More hope for the pearl to stay attached

Thanks again.

If you can see the optos, try blocking the path between the optos and see if the switch test reads it.

I have trouble figuring out how the optos could be working but they are not read. Only things I can think of:

*Mechanical. Not sure how the spinner works with the optos, but when it spins, it is not alternately blocking / opening the optos. Same with the switch in the cannon.

*The receivers are shorted. I have never had a phototransistor short, but there is always the first time. Or somehow the wires are shorted for multiple optos.

It looks like the spinner opto is accessible from the top. You could investigate how that opto pair is interrupted.

And it appears that these optos feed to an opto board. It looks like three of them are used in this game. If that board is suspect, you could switch one.

Screenshot 2024-06-17 at 3.41.24 PM (resized).png

Screenshot 2024-06-17 at 3.41.31 PM (resized).png

Screenshot 2024-06-17 at 3.42.43 PM (resized).png

Screenshot 2024-06-17 at 3.43.21 PM (resized).png

Screenshot 2024-06-17 at 3.43.32 PM (resized).png

Screenshot 2024-06-17 at 3.43.52 PM (resized).png

So I reset all the high scores on POTC, only once did it add a pirate decoration (eye patch) when setting a high score.

How often is it suppose to add decorations to my picture? Seems like a cool feature that would do it more often.

I have had opto issues on my POTC caused by loose connectors on the opto boards. Even traced one down to to a wire pulled partially out of a connector there. Another thing I ran into was the opto for the right spinner on the ship can get smashed by the ball coming out of the VUK. There is a factory mod to give that opto some protection. Also turning down the VUK power is a good idea.

I will echo the "Switch stuck closed" for the "ship destroyed" opto. I'm terrible at that shot and do get that message periodically.

Thanks for the details @lhammer610, I’m still learning some of the electronics. Replaced a fuse and required an LED last night.

For the optos: Def odd. I can see the Black Pearl left opto and break the plane with the spinner and my finger. Test does not register it. And in terms of a circuit or switch, the Black Pearl right opto is all good.

I just added the new fully I/O board about 50 games ago. Hope I don’t need a new new board.

Good insight on the columns. I’m checking the bayou and Malstrom subways/ optics tonight.

LOTR_breath thanks for the “not recently hit” thought. That was true for bulls eye of the ship and I reset that with touching it. I loaded the cannon 3 times while playing last night and it just goes into ball find mode before dribbling from the ball find save

Thanks everyone for the active dialog. Just down to 4 switches not working.

#Pop_the_pearl_off

I think that is why I turned down the VUK power. Something up there got bent. But now I end up with a jam if more than one ball goes into the VUK.

Factory mod sounds good. I wish they would send those notifications out to the owners. Happen to know the link? If not, I will search.

I don't know what to suggest. That #67 opto is identified in the picture of the Pearl. I apologize for the stupid question, but are you certain that you are looking at the U-shaped opto? I think it should look something like this picture.
pbl-600-0313-00_300x300 (resized).jpg

I went into my photos archive and found these I took when the spinners got beat up from the pinball coming from the VUK. In my case, the right spinner is tilted and damaged. But you can see both optos in this photo.

IMG_6902 (resized).jpeg

The other thing to try would be to unplug it from the opto board. Looking at the photo from my earlier post, that would be J3. Please do that with the power off (although it should not be an issue - I always plug and unplug with the power off). If that opto stays closed with the opto unplugged, then either the board is bad or there is something going on with the switch matrix.

I had two shorted switches in a WOZ that caused all sorts of issues with false switch closures all over the matrix. We could be looking at something similar here.

Not sure the frequency but it's not very often. It does a skeleton as well.

ODD, because as soon as I did the code update I now have the same switches stuck "closed"

Any one have experience with these?
Looking to put art blades on a LE.
Thanks!
Richard

IMG_2057 (resized).png

Most of the time these are amount of time between activation errors, in that if the switch is not activated over a certain period of time, an error will be reported.
If the switch is OK, it can be cleared by activating the switch. Not sure if activating it doing a switch test will clear it or if you have to be playing a game to clear it in a JJP.

I am guessing that with the software update there is either a bug or they reduced the number of games played without getting a hit to be reported as an error. Or those switches were never monitored in previous software updates.

I am getting ready to update to 0.992 and will see if I have an issue.

When you mentioned .992 I thought maybe I was missing out. Then I saw it's a very small update. I will probably not do this one. Also, FWIW, I updated to .991 recently and have had no switch issues.

==============================================================================
== Version 0.992 May 14, 2024 ==
== ISO MD5 Checksum: 8ae4808a46b51d387a1e27364b18b60d ==
== DELTA MD5 Checksum: 372dd364d9cb04f64ef00c0454a21b2b ==
==============================================================================
- Note: this is available in a "delta" update which can be upgraded from 0.991

=== Core Code
* Fixed handling of Event Log in rare case of database corruption
* Improved camera re-initialization to avoid rare crash occurrences

I had the mirrorbladez. The best IMo but theres not a lot of room between the playfield and cab and eventually the got ripped up.

Ok!

Sounds like the cheapest ones might be the best option. Someone else mentioned the mid range priced ones were hard to install.

Richard

I am a laggard at upgrading and will do the full install. I was originally planning on waiting for 1.01 - like I do for computers and phones. Am finally getting off of 0.99.

Anyone have any information on the mentioned Pearl retrofit to protect the bridge / spinners / optos from the VUK shot? I asked JJP tech support but did not get an answer yet.

Any beta testers confirm the presence of a wizard mode or is that just a rumor? If it’s there, how do you get to it? Starting all the minis or completing them? Or something completely different?

Per Keith it’s there and largely playable he “forgot” to remove it from the last release

I was able to get to it. I played Norrington on the latest Beta. After all these years of playing it (original owner) I was able to get to all 5 wizard modes. I can't remember exactly but I think there was 4 or 5 chapters that I wasn't able to complete in time. When I finished the last wizard, I thought the game would just continue on without being able to play any more chapters. I was suprised when the screen showed a star field and the entire playfield was dark except for the chest. There was a large pot countdown with the only instruction was to hit the chest. Of course I was on my last ball, in complete shock and so f-ing excited I drained in a short time. i went onto the beta chat and yes, Keith said it was a work in progress, largely playable (it was) and that they forgot to turn it off. There is hope and yes, it will come in good time.

That’s pretty damn exciting, wow! We’ve waiting many years for this. This is going to make this game an absolute timeless masterpiece. It still won’t be easy at all to reach that wizard mode

That sounds cool! Hopefully they will make it more eventful than the other 5 wizard modes which really aren't very good.

I absolutely love POTC and it is the one game that I did part ways with that I do miss the most. If it wasn't for the garbage pf and the high resale value, I would still own it without a doubt! It's just such a fun game to play...

Wow - it really exists!

Your experience is akin to someone actually spotting Sasquatch.

Thanks!

Right on, glad you were able to restate your opinion of the game yet another time. Just a thought, why not find a game you do like and spend your time annoying those owners.

I’m about to lose my mind with the stuck
Closed option on the pearl cannon. I have a crazy situation my brain can’t comprehend.

I tilted the playfield fully vertical as I was checking connections and cleaning optos (have 5 issues).

I went to individual switches and peaking around the playfield. After cleaning the options on the cannon. I went to the switch, inserted my find and it lit up like July 4th. I scream of joy echoed he basement. F- the other closed optos if I could shoot the cannon and start the black pearl multi ball.

I dropped the playfield and double checked the switch. And it did not register. I prayed it was a glitch. I played the game and the cannon did not register.

Next day I repeated the process. Playfield vertical, switch check and opto register. Drop playfield and re-check, does not register. When I play the ball is not recognized in the cannon. Test results as beginning of games says matrixed test of Of load cannon stuck closed.

This baffles me. As I tested the switch horizontal, I shifted the optos around after cleaning them. Nothing

You are stretching or twisting a wire/connector somewhere.

I'd start with the main fat cables for the playfield. Make sure they move a bit freely and aren't getting dragged going down.

LTG : )

Gracias. I will start “loosening”. My head could not imagine the off-on-off-on scenario. This makes perfect sense once said out loud. Bourbon now tastes sweeter. Thank you.

Wait, have you removed the upper PF yet and examined all the wires/connections? A loose wire could give you the exact symptoms you describe. Raise the PF, gravity pulls a wire in the direction it needs to make contact. Lower the PF, it pulls it in another direction, now not making contact.

LOL! You guys are all the same.

If my opinion means so little to you, why even comment on it?

Besides... You don't even have it right.

POTC is a top 3 title for me, the game is absolutely AMAZING! I'm sorry if I don't find the wizard modes to be as compelling as you do and it is a know fact that POTC has pf issues, lots of pf issues. I do want to see the final wizard mode complete and I do want it to be EPIC! I would buy another POTC in a minute if they made them again!! Besides... I have added countless input to this thread when I had my game, just do a search but...

Wait. What am I saying? I really don't care what you think but I'm glad you care about me.

Thank You

Not everything is sunshine and roses, get over it.

Good Point

If you decide to remove the upper pf, I would do a little house cleaning in the process.

Make sure you tighten the flipper bats on the their shafts, mine came loose. Also check all the solder connection, I did have a wire break off on mine which caused a stir of devices to go work on the upper pf. The wires are very tight under there and the rocking of the ship can cause a constant pull on them. Another thing is if you look back through this thread, you should install a wire loom for the wiring harness coming up through the pf that connects to the Black Pearl, this will help with broken connections as well.

I have the mirror ones on a standard edition, they look very good but can easily be damaged.

I wish I could figure out what you are doing / seeing.

When you go into the switch test, is this what you see?

IMG_5282 (resized).jpg

All of those opto switches, the light or olive green opto switches are working. The IR light beams are not interrupted.

But when I stick my finger down the 'cannon',

IMG_5284 (resized).jpg

I can interrupt the light beam on the opto. In that case, the switch is 'closed' or activated. It appears like this on the switch matrix.

IMG_5283 (resized).jpg

Note the switch 66 green highlight. That is the opto in the cannon working. If a pinball was in there, that switch would go dark green as in the photo and the cannon is now ready to fire.

Is this what you are seeing when 'it lit up like July 4th.'?

But during game play, if a pinball goes in there, it does not detect the ball?
What happens if you put a pinball in there during the switch test? Lift up the gate and roll the ball in there.

The comments about the wires being stretched are confusing to me. If it were a wiring issue, you would get an error.

To test out my theory, I pulled the playfield up and forward. I picked one opto board. It did not matter which. I unplugged two plugs.

IMG_5287 (resized).jpg

Then, when I turned them on, I got a switch error:

IMG_5288 (resized).jpg

And when I went to the switch matrix test, this was the result.

IMG_5289 (resized).jpg

Those two red spots in the opto portion of the switch matrix indicate the 'faulty' optos. The computer read those as stuck closed, meaning there is not a light beam on start up.

So, your optos must be working?

But what is happening is that either the ball in the cannon is not blocking the opto, or the receiver (photo transistor) is staying closed / shorted.

I don't understand how it could work then not work. The only other thing I can think of is that the wires are too tight and they are pulling and moving the opto pair so that the pinball cannot block the IR light? That does not make a whole lot of sense either.